Just got a new colleague. Over lunch it transpired he’s a home brewer. Within seconds we were exchanging photographs of carboys and glasses of brews (his beers vs my meads). General giggles and facepalms from other colleagues ensues. He’s got the TILT hydrometer and is raving about it, sent me the Amazon link and showed me a history of readings he took. I was wondering about getting it and now, two weeks later you are mentioning it in your video. Seems quite a step up from a hydrometer… Everyone in my family has a gift-wishlist we share through Whatsapp. Makes gift shopping so much easier! I’ve just placed the TILT on mine along with waterless airlocks, a few more fermenters, yeast, and a stainless steel racking cane. Both my SO and my daughter: “Mmmmm… I sense a theme here” LOL
The one thing I would add, certainly for level two, is some form of heating belt and thermostat. It may not be an issue where you are but it can get quite cold where I brew.
This is good, but a few things I'd include for the new to lvl 2 guy - a hand capper or corker vs the bench variety. - A local source for used Growlers and bombers (22oz bottles). My local cider/wineries have tasting rooms and only use their bottles 1x then resell them. I can get 12x22oz for $3. Lvl 2 likely means you're brewing more mead/wine/beer. Nobody has just 1x 12oz, so the bomber is the natural way to go. - lvl = priming sugar, lvl 2 = primer drops, lvl 3 = kegging stuff - (I know this is a mead channel so not as vital): but wort equipment. lvl 1 = muslin bags and LONG (I think I got 24 or 36" plastic stir paddles, lvl2 = metal stir paddles, maybe stainless mesh instead of muslins, lvl 3 = those wort master containers you just submerge w/ all your additives. Even for meads w/ berries etc this is great. LVL 3 = fruit press (if you see the need) I only ever do partial fruit mashes, so I have an ancient (literally like 150yrs old) 3L one. Usually I gotta do maybe 3-5 'batches' of apples etc but not a big deal.
I use S airlocks and, yes, they do keep bugs out of the brew. However, I have found quite a few suicidal fruit flies in the airlock water. As for that drill attachment, I busted a carboy with one of those. I now use my Vitamix blender for mixing the honey and water.
This was a helpful video and I'm going to share it with some coworkers whom I've gotten interested in mead making. I recognize you have much more experience making mead than I do, and I don't wish to be "that guy" with the next comment. I have degrees in physics, and I noticed you say that a refractometer measured gravity. That is false, but I understand why you said that. Specific gravity is a measure of weight compared to water. In mead making we use it as a proxy for sugar content, however, if you put your hydrometer in a batch of saltwater, you'll find elevated gravity too. Specific gravity only measures sugar if sugar is the only contributor to weight in a must. A refractometer measures how crystals (of sugar or other crystals) refract light. As a mead maker's tool, it more directly measures sugar content than a hydrometer does. I don't have one, but I understand that formulas get more complex as alcohol is present in the must. Neither tool is perfect, but either can be good enough.
I have been wanting to get into brewing mead and literally just bought a hydrometer, some carboys, and airlocks yesterday and wasn't exactly sure what else to get. I was hoping you would have a video on equipment since I enjoy your content and have been subscribed to your channel for some time. The timing for this video couldn't have been better and was extremely helpful!
Interesting video, but let me suggest some additional items for level 1 and these might include a food grade bucket to act as your primary, a carboy to rack into and a bung - yes, even level 1 needs something to stick an airlock into. What you might want but don't need for level 1 is an auto -siphon. All you need is a tube. You can siphon using a tube if you suck the air from the tube much like a straw. Going back to the hydrometer, that tool is useful not only for telling you the potential ABV of your wine or for checking to see if the fermentation has ended but you can use this to monitor how well (or not) the fermentation is progressing. Has your wine stalled? Or is fermentation simply taking place more slowly than you imagined? Level 2: Refractometers are really useful for measuring the sugar content of fruit. A drop of juice is all you need, so you don't have to juice 10 lbs of berries to know that your berries have a gravity of 1.045.. A drop or two of juice will be enough to give you that information - and if the fruit is something that you are growing, it can tell you if the fruit is as ripe as it is likely to get.Last point: a pH meter can be used to inform you about more than just pH. You can use the meter to measure the TA (titratable acidity). Humans are disinterested in pH . That is a measure of the strength of the acids. When it comes to taste we are interested in the AMOUNT of the acids - not pH but g/L and most wines will have about 6 g/L of acids - whether strong or weak acids (tartaric or say, citric) Now, you can use taste to determine how acidic you want your wine, but a pH meter can be used to measure the actual TA (a pH of 8.2 achieved by adding a known amount of a specific base to the wine will tell you the actual TA..
I've watched a number of your videos and really enjoy them and learned a lot. I was surprised that you didn't discuss fermenters or link to one of your videos discussing them. I've come across a number of "beginnner" brewing channels that encourage reused water jugs with balloons. I often comment and direct people to your channel and discourage that practice. Some of their viewers might not understand the use of bungs or lids for the airlocks. As you know, one gallon glass fermenters with bungs and airlocks aren't crazy expensive and obviously reusable. There are complete sets on Amazon for under 15 bucks and 4 packs under $40. Much more consistent results than an old water jug and a balloon. Anyways, another great video.
Nice. I am starting to look at more pro level brewing vessels more for ease of cleaning and fun options like heating for temp control. love the string rod
an oxygen meter would be awesome. If you do get one it would be interesting to see the differences in how much oxygen is introduced using various transfer methods
Another great video - thank you for walking through all of this. I am new to mead (just placed an order for a kit to get started) and have been watching your beginner mead videos.
Is there a link for the Herculometer? The hydrometer you have linked is glass by reviews, and I cant seem to find that plastic one you bring out during Level 2.
I filled out the contact form on your site - can you do a video touching on over sweetening on the first fermentation (by that I mean having a possible abv > the alcohol tolerance of the yeast) so that you don't have to back sweeten? What are the issues/concerns with doing this etc?
Basically you want to add more honey than your yeast can handle to cap them out - but this runs risks because the yeast can get stressed. Also - yeast don't really adhere to their "cap" so they can go past it some... I can try to do a video on it!
@@ManMadeMead I think as I learn more it seems like this methods only real "good" point is avoiding having to stabilize - but that it can lead to a bunch of other issues. Would love to see a video on it though!
Your stirring drill rod isn't shown in the drop down list. Is it no longer made or something? I was interested in it since I am having a hard time finding one for my 1 gal carboys that will actually fit without modification. Many of what I have come across that say that they will fit, the comments about them say that you had to either force it in and out which could leave debris in the brew or that you had to modify it. Blessings and great work, I have learned a lot from you as I am new to brewing myself.
Had a question. It’s my first time brewing and I might have used a bit to much honey. Pulling my ABV test to a 15%. I have added tanin and cambin tablets and I’m waiting the before adding the yeast. Ultimately I’m worried that the 15% might be to high for the wine yeast that I’m using. Should I just add more water to level it out and waste any that I can’t process or do I continue and hope for the best for the yeast?
If you are wanting that brew to be sweeter, leaving it will possibly give some residual sweetness. If you want it to go dry - you might add some water.
It's so nice to have a teacher that isn't pretentious about things needing to be done exactly their way.
Thats a classic Paul move! Always starting brews without a hydrometer...
Just got a new colleague. Over lunch it transpired he’s a home brewer. Within seconds we were exchanging photographs of carboys and glasses of brews (his beers vs my meads). General giggles and facepalms from other colleagues ensues. He’s got the TILT hydrometer and is raving about it, sent me the Amazon link and showed me a history of readings he took. I was wondering about getting it and now, two weeks later you are mentioning it in your video. Seems quite a step up from a hydrometer…
Everyone in my family has a gift-wishlist we share through Whatsapp. Makes gift shopping so much easier! I’ve just placed the TILT on mine along with waterless airlocks, a few more fermenters, yeast, and a stainless steel racking cane.
Both my SO and my daughter: “Mmmmm… I sense a theme here” LOL
Thank you for these videos! I can’t wait to start mead making !!
The one thing I would add, certainly for level two, is some form of heating belt and thermostat. It may not be an issue where you are but it can get quite cold where I brew.
This is good, but a few things I'd include for the new to lvl 2 guy
- a hand capper or corker vs the bench variety.
- A local source for used Growlers and bombers (22oz bottles). My local cider/wineries have tasting rooms and only use their bottles 1x then resell them. I can get 12x22oz for $3. Lvl 2 likely means you're brewing more mead/wine/beer. Nobody has just 1x 12oz, so the bomber is the natural way to go.
- lvl = priming sugar, lvl 2 = primer drops, lvl 3 = kegging stuff
- (I know this is a mead channel so not as vital): but wort equipment. lvl 1 = muslin bags and LONG (I think I got 24 or 36" plastic stir paddles, lvl2 = metal stir paddles, maybe stainless mesh instead of muslins, lvl 3 = those wort master containers you just submerge w/ all your additives. Even for meads w/ berries etc this is great. LVL 3 = fruit press (if you see the need) I only ever do partial fruit mashes, so I have an ancient (literally like 150yrs old) 3L one. Usually I gotta do maybe 3-5 'batches' of apples etc but not a big deal.
I use S airlocks and, yes, they do keep bugs out of the brew. However, I have found quite a few suicidal fruit flies in the airlock water.
As for that drill attachment, I busted a carboy with one of those. I now use my Vitamix blender for mixing the honey and water.
This was a helpful video and I'm going to share it with some coworkers whom I've gotten interested in mead making. I recognize you have much more experience making mead than I do, and I don't wish to be "that guy" with the next comment. I have degrees in physics, and I noticed you say that a refractometer measured gravity. That is false, but I understand why you said that. Specific gravity is a measure of weight compared to water. In mead making we use it as a proxy for sugar content, however, if you put your hydrometer in a batch of saltwater, you'll find elevated gravity too. Specific gravity only measures sugar if sugar is the only contributor to weight in a must. A refractometer measures how crystals (of sugar or other crystals) refract light. As a mead maker's tool, it more directly measures sugar content than a hydrometer does. I don't have one, but I understand that formulas get more complex as alcohol is present in the must. Neither tool is perfect, but either can be good enough.
I haven't seen the plastic hydrometer before. I need one. I've broken so many glass hydrometers.
Testing TA would seem like a must have for level 3. I like those silicone air locks.
I have been wanting to get into brewing mead and literally just bought a hydrometer, some carboys, and airlocks yesterday and wasn't exactly sure what else to get. I was hoping you would have a video on equipment since I enjoy your content and have been subscribed to your channel for some time. The timing for this video couldn't have been better and was extremely helpful!
I o the easy den on Prime day splurge. I gotta get some ofthose waterless airlocks, during some long aging meads,I have had a few go dry.
Interesting video, but let me suggest some additional items for level 1 and these might include a food grade bucket to act as your primary, a carboy to rack into and a bung - yes, even level 1 needs something to stick an airlock into. What you might want but don't need for level 1 is an auto -siphon. All you need is a tube. You can siphon using a tube if you suck the air from the tube much like a straw. Going back to the hydrometer, that tool is useful not only for telling you the potential ABV of your wine or for checking to see if the fermentation has ended but you can use this to monitor how well (or not) the fermentation is progressing. Has your wine stalled? Or is fermentation simply taking place more slowly than you imagined? Level 2: Refractometers are really useful for measuring the sugar content of fruit. A drop of juice is all you need, so you don't have to juice 10 lbs of berries to know that your berries have a gravity of 1.045.. A drop or two of juice will be enough to give you that information - and if the fruit is something that you are growing, it can tell you if the fruit is as ripe as it is likely to get.Last point: a pH meter can be used to inform you about more than just pH. You can use the meter to measure the TA (titratable acidity). Humans are disinterested in pH . That is a measure of the strength of the acids. When it comes to taste we are interested in the AMOUNT of the acids - not pH but g/L and most wines will have about 6 g/L of acids - whether strong or weak acids (tartaric or say, citric) Now, you can use taste to determine how acidic you want your wine, but a pH meter can be used to measure the actual TA (a pH of 8.2 achieved by adding a known amount of a specific base to the wine will tell you the actual TA..
I've watched a number of your videos and really enjoy them and learned a lot. I was surprised that you didn't discuss fermenters or link to one of your videos discussing them. I've come across a number of "beginnner" brewing channels that encourage reused water jugs with balloons. I often comment and direct people to your channel and discourage that practice. Some of their viewers might not understand the use of bungs or lids for the airlocks. As you know, one gallon glass fermenters with bungs and airlocks aren't crazy expensive and obviously reusable. There are complete sets on Amazon for under 15 bucks and 4 packs under $40. Much more consistent results than an old water jug and a balloon. Anyways, another great video.
Thank you for the video! ☺♥
Really Enjoyed your Video , Very Informative , Thanks. 🐯🤠
Really helpful video, the tilt hydrometer is now on my Christmas list!
It's really fun!
Just started my brewing hobby and I’m so glad I found your channel. You’re a HUGE help! Thanks so much man.
Nice. I am starting to look at more pro level brewing vessels more for ease of cleaning and fun options like heating for temp control. love the string rod
an oxygen meter would be awesome. If you do get one it would be interesting to see the differences in how much oxygen is introduced using various transfer methods
I have one of the waterless bungs. It’s great. Unfortunately, I can’t find more.
Another great video - thank you for walking through all of this. I am new to mead (just placed an order for a kit to get started) and have been watching your beginner mead videos.
Very interesting, very useful!
As always, great content! Between you, BC, and Carlos, my mead skills have gotten exponentially better since I found your channels!
You should also mention that refractometers aren't accurate after fermentation and you need to use a calculator to get a good reading
Very true!
What about kegs for force carbonating or potentially fermenting under pressure? Good video tho! I need to get myself a steel autosiphon..
I didn't quite jump into that because it's a whole other system.. but that's in the level 3 realm in my opinion!
I bought the Stainless steel Anvil fermenter.
I wanted something sturdy with a Spigot.
What do you think about steel fermenters?
I think they are great! They are just expensive!
I have an Refractometer. The SG is always accurate but after fermentation the Reeding is wrong.
Also if the brew is complete dry it Shows 1.035
You have to use a different brix calculator to get accurate results!
Is there a link for the Herculometer? The hydrometer you have linked is glass by reviews, and I cant seem to find that plastic one you bring out during Level 2.
I filled out the contact form on your site - can you do a video touching on over sweetening on the first fermentation (by that I mean having a possible abv > the alcohol tolerance of the yeast) so that you don't have to back sweeten? What are the issues/concerns with doing this etc?
Basically you want to add more honey than your yeast can handle to cap them out - but this runs risks because the yeast can get stressed. Also - yeast don't really adhere to their "cap" so they can go past it some... I can try to do a video on it!
@@ManMadeMead I think as I learn more it seems like this methods only real "good" point is avoiding having to stabilize - but that it can lead to a bunch of other issues. Would love to see a video on it though!
Your stirring drill rod isn't shown in the drop down list. Is it no longer made or something? I was interested in it since I am having a hard time finding one for my 1 gal carboys that will actually fit without modification. Many of what I have come across that say that they will fit, the comments about them say that you had to either force it in and out which could leave debris in the brew or that you had to modify it. Blessings and great work, I have learned a lot from you as I am new to brewing myself.
This is the one that I use! amzn.to/3RwCri7
Had a question. It’s my first time brewing and I might have used a bit to much honey. Pulling my ABV test to a 15%. I have added tanin and cambin tablets and I’m waiting the before adding the yeast. Ultimately I’m worried that the 15% might be to high for the wine yeast that I’m using. Should I just add more water to level it out and waste any that I can’t process or do I continue and hope for the best for the yeast?
If you are wanting that brew to be sweeter, leaving it will possibly give some residual sweetness. If you want it to go dry - you might add some water.
@@ManMadeMead thank you very much! I appreciate your response!
I'll stick to the basics I only do home brews for myself lol
You can still have nice stuff when brewing for yourself!
Just made my first mead in a Lowe's 5 gallon bucket with Costco honey. My ancestors are rolling in their graves I'm sure
Where would you say temp control comes in at: 3? 4?
Probably at level 3!
I dunno why I didn't have a turkey baster better then siphoning into a cylinder
I always thought mead was "made", not "brewed"... pretty much like wine is "made" and not "brewed".