How To Build a Shed Floor - Shed Building Video 3 of 15
Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 жов 2013
- Our 8x10 and 10x12 shed plans for the shed built in these videos can be found here: countrylifeprojects.com/shedp...
Save 33% on our plans right now with our Winter Buy Now Build Later discount! Enter Code BNBL10 during checkout. Lumber prices are finally coming down and next spring might be a great time to build.
In this video Henry teaches you how to frame a shed floor and apply 3/4" T&G plywood sheathing. Everything you need to know is included in our detailed instructions - some of the main parts covered in this floor framing video are:
- How to identify crowns and layout floor joist correctly
- How to make sure your floor is square
- How to level the floor framing
- How to cut & measure T&G plywood floor sheathing
- Tips & tricks in this stage to make later parts of the shed build much easier.
Need Inspiration? Checkout sheds built by our viewers using our videos and/or our plans at countrylifeprojects.com/categ...
View 15 all of our Shed Building videos on our UA-cam Channel: / countrylifemedia
Our Shed Plans for this shed are available here: countrylifeprojects.com/shedplan/
We have more projects coming up this year, don't miss them: Subscribe to the Country Life Projects channel here: ua-cam.com/users/subscription_c...
#shed #gardenshed #diy #framing #carpentrytips #carpentry #woodworking #sheds #trusses
Shed Design & Plans Copyright Countrylifeprojects.com - All Rights Reserved - Навчання та стиль
8 years later and these series of videos are still by far the most detailed and informative "how to's" for shed building. Great job!
I followed his directions and built a shed 5 years ago. It's as good today as when I built it. Refreshing for a 2nd
I love old school dogma carpenters.
Great job of keeping it simple.
I’m about to start my 10x8 shed foundation. Very nice tutorial. Easy to understand. Thanks for sharing
This man is awesome! I’ve been watching shed videos for 2 weeks and thankfully I haven’t built anything yet. Thank you sir!!!
THANK YOU
very much!
for excellent high quality educational video construction of wood buildings tips and teaching tool, love the Canada accent and polite get to the point style and SAFETY first reminders every step of the way throughout the 15 video series... we are all inspired and can't wait to start building our tiny house, likely our generation will NEVER have a regular house next to our tiny house creations and will be very happy living in tiny houses that previous generation called sheds instead of renting and paying rent to previous generation members... Very useful videos! Thank you!
-tibor
So many very good tips
Wow. I've been trolling around UA-cam looking for decent videos on DIY projects like this for some time. Finally - someone who actually knows what they're doing and understands how to explain things to "dummies" like me. Great video and sound quality, and everything is very well thought out and explained. Notice also that videos on building a chicken coop and greenhouse, my next two projects, might be on the horizon - I'm holding my breath (so the sooner the better!) Thanks and keep up the great work!!
agreed idunno why this video hasnt come up sooner ive watched so many and they make it so difficult and complicated or dont explain stuff fully or why you do certain things.. im just scared of buillding a rooflike this... heh i dunno if i can do this on my 800 dollar budget
You are the Man...Calm, Cool and Collective. Thank you! for your professional instructions/ teachings.
Great advice
I just love your videos. Your explanations are so simple to follow. We seriously just followed along to this one and the shed base turned out perfect. Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos for us diy-ers😊
Love the thorough explanation through out your entire videos!
Thank you so much. I am having to build a house around myself and you are a God send . Thank you thank you!
My father and I are building a shed after learning everything we didn't know from these videos! Truly radical, thank you.
Have fun and let me know how it turns out!
This is magisterial ! Thanks ! Great carpenter and great "explainer" !!
Extremely thoughtful and a good pace. Thanks!
Great videos. I really enjoyed them, and learned some great tips!! Nice job.
Great video series, clear, easy to understand. Thank you very much for making these.
Very helpful. Awesome explanation. Thank you!!
Thank you so much! You’re a GREAT teacher!
Outstanding how to video series!
Great teacher
Nice job sir! Full of helpful hints and benefits. Thanks much!
Excellent set of instructions-well done! Thanks for putting this out.
Thank you, very informative.
Than you for this video I’m learning and the way you did it it’s the way I was thinking to do for my shed house
just what i was looking for! thank you.
knowledgeable man , old school ways.. tradesmen.
Excellent video... you answered a lot of questions that have bugging me for years. Thank you so much taking the time to share your knowledge.
Nice clean. Job 👍
Wow! This is the best and most detailed instructional video about building a shed floor! Excellent!! Thank you!
Great video, thank you
Excellent.
Really, really good video! 👍👏👍👏👍👏
Pretty good video alots of details
THANK,S FOR A GREAT VIDEO; YOU ARE VERY RIGHT WHEN YOU SAY THE FRAME "MUST BE SQUARE AND LEVEL; I LEARNED THE HARD WAY; PJP
very good and very helpful
Great video
Great! Shout out sir..God bless
great video
nice
Thank you for sharing this video; is amazing. What kinds of tools do I need to build this foundation; and how much lumber or plywood do I need and what size of nails I need as well if you help with that would be great; any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you again
Great video. I have a question about this particular video. I did not see you glue the other pieces of plywood down (the second half of the floor) . Do you only glue down your first half of the floor? Or maybe it's assume that the other ones get glued down and didn't show it on the second half of the floor.
Thanks again. I am looking to maybe put down a foundation for pre-made shed. I really liked your first 3 videos and find them to be extremely helpful. I like that you show how to do things the right way and not half way done and explain why.
I don't need the other videos after the floor is down but I am enjoying the knowledge your providing that I think I am going to watch all 15.
Thanks again for investing your time and effort to help others. Thank your camera guy/director too 😉
O Enrique Hi... Yes, all of the plywood is glued down and I am pretty sure I mention this. We do like to make sure we cover all the detail but sometimes you just have to skip along otherwise the videos just become way to long. Glad you like the videos. And thanks for acknowledging the cameraman aka Mark - it takes just as much time to be behind the camera as in front of it.
Your videos are excellent - giving me all the confidence in the world to build my own shed. And the fact that you're so responsive is incredibly impressive, too. In this video you mention that for an 8x10 shed, your actual framing dimensions are 7'9"x9'9" which will help save economical cuts later. I'm planning to build an 8x12 shed - so do you recommend I frame it to 7'9" x 11'9"? Just not fully clear why I'm shaving 3" off each side. Can you explain? Thanks so much.
Hi Craig... in North America most lumber is sold in 2' increments such as 8', 10', 12' and so on. If you build the framing of the shed at say 10' long, your base trim would have to be 10' 2 1/4" long (framing + LP panels + the thickness of base trim on the front and back if mitered). This means you would have to buy a 12' piece and waste almost 2' (with the frame size reduced, you can use a 10' piece for base instead of a 12' - same applies to other areas where trim is used) - by reducing the size 3" on length and width you save on finish materials. Do Note however... the larger the structure the less important this is since it only saves on trim, fascia boards etc.
Thanks again for the great video series. My HOA is going to require a cement floor. Do you have any videos on that? Would you use the same dimensions for the cement pad as the wall frame of the building so that the siding laps over the cement foundation?
I would recommend ear protection as well.
At least while using the power tools.
Good Point... will try to cover that in the future
Thank you for the video. How could you tap when you were standing on it?
This is a great series, thank you very much. I'm sorry if I missed it but did you drill pilot holes for the 3" screws securing the joists?
+Keith Ressler Nope... you shouldn't have to unless you are using very hard and dry wood. be sure to use constructions screws like those found at Lowes or HD
Great instruction video. One question I have is the type of screws you should use, for example, if you were putting Trex decking down on a deck on treated lumber they supply, what I believe, stainless screws. Will these screws corrode?
Coated screws are made for pressure treated lumber. You shouldn't need to us SS. Somewhere on the box for deck screws you should see info that indicates they are suitable for PT wood.
Hello, great video!
Does the frost affect the level at all after a year or so? I'm thinking in terms of what deck builders always say about concrete footings being mandatory with any type of platform or decking.
Thanks in advance.
Matthew Guida Hi Matthew... typically any structure attached to your house should have proper footings that are set below frost depth - you don't want your deck heaving or sinking while the house does not. For sheds or small outbuildings concrete footings are overkill in my opinion, a slab is good in some case but footings are more work and pricy. Also, in some cases, if you use concrete footings you may be adding to the taxable square footage of your property - something to check with local authorities before you do this. Also, if you ever decide to move the shed (or other outbuilding), it would not be possible if you use a slab or footings. In regards to level? Over the years frost heaving and sinking may effect the level of a shed but not much - a lot depends on the soil, moisture content etc. If the soil is uniform and of the same composition under the shed, the frost heave and sinking should also be fairly uniform. Hope that answers your question.
Curious how you got the gravel base level?
you mentioned coating the ends of the 2x6 where they are cut to help protect that end ad well as a prime on the bottom portions of the smart side paneling to help protect them. What types of prime do you recommend on them? (Ive never used them before.)
DominionofGod Any good wood preservative will do, even a good stain if you don't have the other. It is just to add a little extra protection.
Great series...do you need to anchor the shed to the ground any way for high winds etc...or will the weight keep it secure enough??
Hi Robert... this depends on what kind of wind strength you expect? If you live in an area where the occasional hurricane force winds may occur, then I would figure on a way to secure the shed. If not, I personally would not be concerned. You'll need to make the call on this one.
imagine full of tools, lawn mower , paint . once full it would take a lot to move it
thanks for taking your time going thoroughly through the steps for building the base. This is what i am most interested in. I need to build a base for a steel storage shed kit(don't laugh). It would have been great if you could have shown how the steps for preparing the ground for the gravel, but i think i know how to do that.
One question i do have is that you do not anchor the base to the ground. is this not something that needs to be done?
+bruce sword I would only be concerned about anchoring to the ground in high wind areas. Keep in mind, if you lay concrete and footings you are then building what code will call a permanent structure - this could (check locally and size of shed makes a difference) put you into a position of requiring a permit, inspections and worst of all, the shed may get added to the value of the property and increase your tax assessment - possibly.
Hey, great video, thanks! One question: I've always understood to never nail or screw into end grain, as you are doing in this video when assembling the joists and headers. Please explain.... thanks....
Hi Galen, I am not sure where you may have heard this, but it does not apply to many aspects or framing, construction and woodworking. Screwing or nailing through a joist header or wall plates into studs or joists is the norm, never been done differently that I can recall.
End screwing or nailing would be against code when the joists are suspended. In this situation the shed joists are resting on high compacting rock. So, when a downward force in the form of weight is applied on the joists, the joists are resting on the stone and can't "fall" - and thus aren't "hanging" from the rim joists by those screws.
If the rim joists were say on footings, posts, or like in a beam situation, where the joists would raised off the ground, typical code would require the use of joist hangers. So keep that in mind if you decide to modify the plans to raise the shed off the ground on posts, like you would a raised deck for example.
Excellent video! Question: Would you use screws rather than nails, no matter what size the shed? Thanks in advance.
For any shed up to 10 x 12 I feel screws are fine. For larger structures it is important to take the shear strength of nails into consideration. The larger the structure the more force mother nature can place on it.
Great video, but to anyone, who has no pad, such as cement, gravel, or asphault , I recommend placing 3 4x4 pressure post under the floor
If going that route, I would use 6x4's... the wider base will be more stable and spread the load across the 6" base... 4x4's may sink into the ground more.
Hi, Great video (and sorry for the long post)
One thing I can't figure out - you use 2x6 for the framing. But when making the marks you say that we should measure a quarter of an inch before the 16inch markers so that it would perfectly fit in the center (~6:05 in video) - so which size do you use here is it 2 inch thick or 1.5?
Is it the same for the wall framing?
Thanks!
+Bob Private Hi Bob... I just checked the video and I actually say 3/4" back (you had me a little concerned there). In the USA and Canada, all framing lumber (typically called dimensional lumber) is smaller than the stated size. For example a 2x4 is 1.5" x 3.5", a 2x6 is 1.5" x 5.5" and so on... a 1x4 is 3/4" x 3.5". In the videos, all lumber, layout and measurements are based on using these standard sizes for USA and Canada.
+Country Life Projects & Living
Sorry my mistake - I meant 3/4 of an inch... (that's why I wrote 1.5 inch.)
Thank you for the fast and helpful response!
Thanks for this great series of videos! Could you answer the following question for me please? I've been told by a few people that when framing my shed floor I should allow ventilation to the underside to avoid dampness and subsequent rotting of the timbers. Your design (and many others I've seen) is enclosed - is lack of air-flow something that you worry about (especially as the plywood for the floor is usually not pressure treated)?
+Jim Dunleavy Hi Jim... Depending on what you use as a base it is possible that moisture may be a problem. This is why we used a coarse gravel to allow water to drain away and allow air to pass through the rocks. If you are concerned, you could build the shed floor on skids. You could also use PT plywood for the floor. However, for a shed, I would stick to the PT framing and regular plywood floor.
Thanks for that. I'm building directly onto compacted sub base, so I'll use skids.
Nice video,you are very concise. I'm linking to it on other UA-cam videos. You said to snap a line at 4'. Wouldn't it be better to go 4' and 1/2" because of the tongue, and then set the grooved edge on the line you snapped? Also you mentioned in an earlier video that you want the plywood upside down. Won't that void the plywood warranty?
Jim Watson No company is going to honour a warranty on a shed that has 3 pieces of plywood. In the case of the shed it is about what looks the best. And, most labels on plywood are for building inspectors (in most cases) so they can see that the correct grade of materials have been used... hence placing labels down on roof sheathing so the inspector can see them. T&G plywood is 48" with the tongue here in Canada.
Country Life Projects & Living Ok, thanks. I was wondering about that.
Very good, professional instructions. How much will the project cost, using the materials used ? And do you have other video projects? Thank you.
Marcelino Palisoc Hi Marcelino... Overall the project was about $2000. But we live in one of the most expensive areas of North America and we used very good materials for everything. If you were careful and shopped around I think a person could get the price down to $1500 +-. We do have more projects planned including a greenhouse and chicken coup as well as many on how to use tools etc. Hoping to start posting in about a month or so.
Thank you.
Please let me know when you post the next video, thank you.
I've been watching a lot of shed building videos and my concern has to do with after the shed is finished. It seems to me with the shed elevated off the ground, under the shed you have a dark, sheltered area with sectioned off spaces (floor joists), a perfect nesting area. How do you keep wasps, bees, and other insects from making their nests under there? Might also be nice for snakes, mice, etc.
Aelanna64 Well... any space that looks comfortable to creatures and insects is fair game. There is not really much you can do about that. I personally feel we all share the same spaces on this planet and we need to allow for a few creatures and insects around us.
Country Life Projects & Living I'm all for that as well, until said wasps and bees start stinging me for being too close to 'their' home. ;)
Aelanna64 True... But with any space it is hard to make it 100% bug or critter proof, especially sheds and similar outbuildings.
Country Life Projects & Living you are awesome! Great effort on your videos.
Do you guys think this kind of floor would be strong enough if it were an inch or two off the ground on concrete blocks? I've been getting lost in paralysis by analysis, looking at span tables, etc. I want my floor an inch or two up off the ground so it's not making ground contact (my shed will be on dirt, not gravel). In this example it seems like the gravel ground is supporting the floor, but in mine I'd be spacing concrete blocks out every 4 feet and doubling (maybe even tripling) the rim joists.
@@Countrylifeprojects Thanks for such a generous response.
Hello! :) I am going to build the 10'x12' version of this shed, but I want to move the door to the 12' side instead of the 10' side. I'm only a very novice carpenter, so should I have much trouble adjusting the plans to move the door to an adjacent wall?
Hi Thorzon... not a problem at all. In fact pages 44 and 45 of the 10x12 plans show how to frame both a door and window opening if you want these on the sides which are bearing walls. You just need to change these instructions to suit the size(s) you want and where along the wall you want either located.
hey there I love the videos but am wondering what to do about my situation. I have about a foot of slope away from my fence and wondering what to do about it. Might be difficult to level it for the gravel. digging a foot into the fence might not be a great idea and also i live in a cold climate so was wanting to elevate the shed off the floor a little bit. What would be the best option in this case? I was thinking pouring some concrete piers but not sure how to sit the wood skid on it or where to put the piers exactly. What do you think?
Norman Jade Hi, a sloped property does make things a little more difficult. Piers is a good way to go and be sure to make the base of the piers below the frost line in your area. For a fully suspended floor (one on piers) I would upgrade to a 2x8 floor system and I would double up the header joists. As far as location of piers go, I would put one at each corner for sure and one half way down the long sides of the shed under the double joist header. However, do note that I am not an engineer so this may be a bit overkill - you'll have to decide exactly how strong you want the foundation of your shed to be.
Country Life Projects & Living
thanks will do. Also I was wanting to put brick on the front facing of the shed to match my house. Would you know what the total sqft would be of facing? minus a regular door of course?
Norman Jade Adding brick to the front adds a new set of things to consider. First is weight and second is support. If you are talking about real brick I would not do it - on homes, real brick is support from the foundation up. On a shed supported by piers this is asking for problems. If you are talking about brick veneer (the type you screw on) then it should be okay but make sure your concrete piers are strong enough. You should also use plywood sheathing on this wall and double up the end joists that support the wall on that end of the shed.
ya they are those wall tiles that look like brick, not real bricks. They go on with an adhesive. Someone told me that if I was putting real brick I would have to put a concrete slab and thats a job im not comfortable doing.
How come you used 3 pieces of plywood for the floor instead of two sheets of 4 x 8? Thanks, I'm a 66 year old grandma and I'm going to build my own 12 x 16 shed.
+openyoureyes The shed is roughly 8' x 10' so 3 sheets are needed and the sheets should always be staggered if the structure is longer than 8' - For a small shed it is not critical but it is good building practice. For a 12x16 shed I would definitely stagger the sheets.
You must have some educational instruction experience, nicely done.
Hi Sir, do you have the plan of this shed? Thanks!
Samrach Chum Hi Samrach... you can get the plans here countrylifeprojects.com/shedplan/
Will it be ok to build the subfloor for 12x16 shed the same way? Do you think adding 4x4 for additional support in between the gravel and 2x6 is necessary or can I do without the 4x4?
Hi Marvin, for larger sheds, and the investment and time, I would use the skids as there is a lot more area under the shed to hold moisture (of course it depends on where you live and how much rain you get). For a 12x16 I would consider 4x6 - 4x4 might sink into the ground easier due to the weight of the shed. I would do 3 runs with one in the center for the required support and make sure the gravel under these is well compacted.
@@Countrylifeprojects with the “6” inch in the vertical direction or horizontal?
Horizontal, 6" flat on the ground to provide better support and it is more stable this way too.
did you pre drill holes before you put the screws in? It looks way too easy if not pre drilled. :)
+Chris Lee Nothing was pre drilled. Dewalt or Makita impact drivers make it easy. Using proper construction screws makes a difference too.
+Country Life Projects & Living first of all, thanks for replying since this is pretty long time ago and you still care! I was using exterior grade screws, but I always pre drill. The only thing I worry now is my PT 2x6 are not that dry! I wish I watched this video before I did that part! Thanks for the great videos.
+Chris Lee PT lumber is seldom dry and if it is, it is usually twisted and warped. I actually prefer PT lumber dry feeling (e.g. does not weight a ton) and final drying after assembly - less warpage that way I find. I wouldn't worry to much about the PT...maybe just check the plywood floor fastners in a month or so and tighten them up (or nail if you used nails). As far as responding goes... I like to keep in touch with anyone watching our videos. We have been so busy the last couple years more projects were not feasible (lots of time required for film etc). But this spring looks like Mark and I will have lots of time and we may even tackle a Tiny House Build. Soon, not sure when, we will eventually do a full house project - as soon as we find the right pieces of land - which still might be mid 2016 if all goes well.
something like grip rite with star driver is why it looked easy. that's the way to go those star drive screws.
I've watched several different videos, as well as this one, that stress the point of making sure your project is square by measuring from corner to corner. Of course the measurements always come out identical so the project is square. In this particular video, with everything being fastened tightly, how do you square this floor if the measurements are not equal? What do you do - just slap the corners with a sledge hammer? I've not seen anyone explain how you square something that is out of square.
Typically, Yes, a sledge hammer is the norm. Just need someone to stand on the corner that needs to stay in place. Sometimes just kick it over with your foot is enough.
If you have a concrete slab to start with, is there any need to frame the floor?
There would not be any need to frame a floor... but in many areas, if you use a concrete slab or foundation the shed may be considered a permanent structure and added to the taxable square footage of buildings on the property.
Ok - but is it not better to raise the floor, because of rain?
By using the gravel and making sure rain water can flow away through the gravel, no water should remain at the base of the floor framing. However, if there is no way to ensure water can flow away e.g. shed is located at low point on property, then yes, using PT skids is to elevate the floor is a good idea.
Ok, thanks for the tip
I initially bought screws labeled as "construction screws" but right on the box it said "for non structural applications" That was very confusing to me. You would think that a construction screw WOULD be appropriate for structural use. Any thoughts on that Henry?
Hi Rich... Now that is a first for me. I have never seen that on a construction screw package - but to be honest, never looked either nor would I expect that. Very odd considering there are many varieties of screws sold today for building. Do note: Screws are more brittle than nails and will break easier. A quick test is easy, hammer a 3" nail half way into a 2x4 and screw a 3" construction screw half way in to the same board... now with a hammer tap back and forth until they break off. The screw usually will snap off in 2 to 3 hits. The nail might take up to a dozen hits. Hence the higher shear strength and code requirements for nails over screws in "Most" cases.
But to put it into perspective, for a small shed, I would not be so concerned about shear strength and similar issues as the forces that would cause a screw to fail over a nail on a small structure is highly unlikely (not impossible of course) - and no one is likely to be hanging out for long in a small shed... or during freaky weather that might cause failure.
Lastly - I would only use screws for small sheds like this (and nails of course). Anything larger, and for sure any structure where people will spend time - I would use nails as per code to ensure the structure meets the code for the area.
@@Countrylifeprojects thank you so much Henry. Happy Holidays.
@@Countrylifeprojects yes, Grip Rite Construction Screws from the Home Depot "for use in any non structural construction project"
I'd rather use screws as I don't have an air nailer, but would nails have better shear strength?
Hi Austin, Nails do have a better shear strength but most of the shed is not subject to the high shear forces that would apply to larger structures. For example the floor rests on the ground (gravel or maybe skids so joists are supported). Wall panels are glued to framing. Plywood gussets are glued as well as nailed. Roof sheathing is 1/2", not 3/8 as found on most sheds. Hurricane ties are used to on trusses/top plates. It would take some very severe weather to tear apart our shed - using screws or nails.
@@Countrylifeprojects
Thank you.
Why not use treated plywood on the floor? Wouldn't treated handle the weather better?
+Wesley McMinn Treated wood is best if exposed to the weather. With this shed design, the floor should not get wet very often so it is an extra expense that is not really required IMO. The floor framing however will likely be exposed to mositure on a regular basis so treated wood makes sense. If you don't mind the little extra cost, treated plywood is always better for an outbuilding.
+Country Life Projects & Living Note.. except for structures that house animals that may peck or chew the wood, then I would not use treated plywood
Wheres your knee pads😫 lol jk but I'm lost with out any knee pads 👍 Good video
I bought my plans, now I am pricing materials and digging my pad.
Thanks for the excellent set of instructional videos.
Starting at about 17:30, after you have completed the assembly of the floor frame, you check for "squareness" of the assembly, and you indicate that it is proper. Thus, you do not actually demonstrate how to "square" things at that point. How would one "square" the assembly if it were found to be out of square after everything is screwed together, or is it necessary to disassemble the structure to fix it?
Peter K. Good point... As long as you have only assembled the framing and not put on plywood you can square up the floor. When measuring diagonally the length will be the same when the frame is square (provided you cut your joist headers the same length). If one measurement is longer, you adjust the frame until it is equal both ways. After this you apply the plywood to make sure it stays square and straight (as shown in the video). If plywood is already on and it is out of square, then yes, plywood would have to be removed to square up the floor.
Country Life Projects & Living Thanks for your reply, but I'm still not clear about this. I understand that once the plywood is on, it has to be removed to square things up, but my question relates to after the frame is complete but before the plywood is fastened on.
In your answer you write: "If one measurement is longer, you adjust the frame until it is equal both ways." My question remains: exactly how do you "adjust" a non-square frame?
With all the elements screwed together, I would expect that any attempt to "square" the rigid structure by applying pressure to corners or edges would cause the structure to spring back to its original (i.e., non-square) state as soon as the pressure was relieved unless one added additional bracing to maintain the pressure to keep the floor frame square until the plywood can be screwed on. I realize that once it's square to begin with, screwing the plywood on will provide sufficient bracing to keep it square, however, it has to be square prior to the installation of the plywood.
Peter K. Well, the first step is to try and assemble the frame as close to square as possible (if the lumber is cut square, this will be evident in how the joist ends fit flat to the header joist). Once assembled on a gravel base, the weight of the frame is heavy enough that is should not spring back (PT lumber is usually pretty heavy and damp). To adjust the frame, you would tap the corner that is to long toward the direction that will decrease the diagonal length and fits with where the frame should be positioned (with a sledge hammer or feet or just physical strength). In most cases, if you take time with the above, the frame is seldom going to be out of square more than an inch or so - if it is more, than it is likely that your joist ends have not been cut square. If joist ends are substantially out of square and the frame is assembled, then yes, the frame may spring back.
@@Countrylifeprojects Thank you for the explanation. I had the same question. (Extremely valuable videos.)
what kind the cordless drill are your working ? can you show me , i would like to buy it ? thank you so much ./.my nam is: loi nguyen
+Loi Nguyen Hi Loi... sorry for the delay...been very busy. The drill/impact drivers used for the shed is Dewalt 18 volt combo kit. However 20 volt are now available (see amzn.to/1RVOcg6 ). But, I do have to say that lately I tend to prefer Makita's combo kit ( check out amzn.to/1M8WYVw ) - they are a little bulkier than Dewalt 20 volts, but I am finding they have a little more power, the batteries seems to last longer, and the chuck on the drill does not loosen up as frequently as the Dewalt drill. If you will only be using these on weekend projects, go with Dewalt as the combo kit is much cheaper than the Makita. However, if you think you will use them a lot, pay the extra and go with Makita. I have both available to me, but I tend to grab my Makita drill or impact driver over the Dewalt these days. Both are excellent for professional or DIY use!
If the floor was out of square, how would you have corrected it?
+Tom McCarrick Hi Tom... this depends on how far along you are. If you have the plywood on and it is glued, there will be nothing you can do short of starting over. But if the plywood is not on, you can push or tap (sledge hammer if needed) the corner that is the longest diagonally (when measuring corner to corner the measurement should be the same provided you are accurate cutting all floor joists and headers). Once the floor is close to square (or right on) you can use the plywood to make sure and final adjustments - as you lay and secure each row, move the floor framing to line up with the plywood edges as you go (making sure your plywood joints are even too). When adjusting the floor framing to square, you will need another person on the opposite corner you are banging in to place to provide resistance. Also, use a scrap block to protect the floor framing - if you are hitting the joist side of the floor, be sure to put the block on the joist and end of the header so you do not knock any joists loose that are connected to the header (and hit it ideally on the end of the header area. Better yet, hit the header face for adjustments and this won't be an issue).
+Country Life Projects & Living Ok, thanks for that information. And if the ground was not level to start with..? (You may have covered it already - is it just a matter of adding extra gravel on the low side?)
Is the glue really necessary?
In typical construction of say a garage, house or even a larger shed you would normally use sheathing first and then the exterior finish - and you would be able to use lots of nails to secure the sheathing. With LP Panels and nailing in the grooves, you use less nails and the surface is thinner. In my opinion this is not enough on its own to provide the shear strength required... when applying LP Panels without sheathing (which is common on small sheds) the glue increases the shear strength substantially. You could put up the panels without glue but there is always the risk of collapse, especially in areas of high winds or heavy snow loads - I personally would not take the risk, especially considering the minor amount of work and expense required to use the glue.
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I'm building a floor frame for a 11'x8' shed and I will follow the same steps as you did in this video. Thank you again.
No safety glasses? Good instruction though.......
We usually do wear them... but it is easy to forget when we are focusing on filming, setup and what the heck I need to say ;-)
five (*****) info...thanks.
He didn’t tell what kind of plywood he used to build this shed .that’s outdoor project
3/4" T&G exterior grade floor sheathing.
@@Countrylifeprojects thank you!
Very happy with detailed explanation and successful uil build my shed base (I use pressure treated plywood) this instructions.!!! Thank you!
This guy clearly prefers to frame using screws and talks about the "pulling power" as apposed to nails. Just remember that screws snap, nails bend. The pulling power of a nails is adequate enough for a house, why wouldn't it be for a shed. I prefer to have fasteners that are able to expand and contract. Save the screws for installing cabinets.
I use air nailers all the time. For a house or large structure, I would recommend nails, especially where shear strength is required - and code requires this anyways. However, this series of videos was designed with the average homeowner/DIY'er in mind - who likely does not have air tools but should have a screw gun. For small sheds like these, the use of nails is not as critical as larger structures that people work in or live.
its called a speed square please get the name of your tools ight
Ian Broadhurst Well Ian, please check Home Depot where these are sold as "Rafter Squares" as I noted in the video... www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-Magnum-Rafter-Square-3990/100174397?N=5yc1vZc97l - Gotta think HD would get it right. By the way, what is "ight".
Ian Broadhurst Speed Square is a product name specific to Swanson Tools and it has become generalized over the years (much like sheetrock is called drywall). Technically speaking if it's not manufactured by Swanson it isn't a Speed Square.
"Speed Square" is a brand name (by Swanson) that has become generalized in common language... Kind of like the way people tend to generically refer to "Kleenex" as a tissue , or making a "Xerox" when photocopying something, or Googling" when doing an internet search, or "Cellophane" when referring to plastic wrap... Everything previously in quotes is actually a brand.... Get the picture?? So it is you who is incorrect.