If you found this video helpful, please *LIKE* it and share it to help spread its reach! Thanks for watching 🙂TIMESTAMPS for convenience: 0:00 Introduction 0:36 Seed Starting Mistake #1 2:08 When To Start Seeds For Warm Season Crops 3:08 Seed Starting Mistake #2 4:38 Timing Transplants In HOT Summer Climates 6:35 Seed Starting Mistake #3 8:52 Seed Starting Mistake #4 11:05 Seed Starting Mistake #5 12:08 Grow Light Schedule 14:22 Seed Starting Mistake #6 17:19 Seed Starting Mistake #7 19:59 How To Fertilize Seedling Transplants 21:36 Seed Starting Mistake #8 22:44 Seed Starting Mistake #9 23:44 How To Harden Off Seedlings To Sunlight 26:15 Adventures With Dale
I find peppers to be the one exception, I start them very early because they grow much slower, and the first harvests are bigger if the plant is more mature when I transplanted it.
This is true for very hot peppers, like the novelties (Ghost, Reaper, Scorpion, etc.). I advise everyone plant them an entire month early. Your standard sweet peppers and common, every day "hot peppers" can get very large after 6-8 weeks. By week 8, they are becoming stressed and will try flowering in a 3.5-inch square pot.
It is a game-changer. A heat mat and thermostat combo is the best $40 you'll ever spend. It will pay for itself in no time, especially considering stores are selling plants for like $4 each these days 😂
Top Shelf content. I am a habitual over-waterer of little seedlings and I think putting a breeze on them a few hours a day will probably save them. Thank you!
Thank you for this video! These are all mistakes I will try to avoid as a beginner!😅 Overwatering is something that I struggle with. I have parsley seedlings that I am growing indoors that I haven’t watered in a week and they seem to be doing well. The next thing is fertilizing and knowing when to. I will start thinking about that. Keep the videos coming! ❤🌿
This was a rollercoaster. Im very new to gardening in florida. Strike 1 - i was a couple weeks late to starting my seedlings. Strike 2 - i put like 4 tomato seeds per cell. Hopefully i can split them easily. But i did use a heat mat and my God. The tomatoes all germinated in like 3 days and near 100% success. Cant wait to keep learning.
Hello. Thanks for all your videos. I almost successfully grew a watermelon last year. And it encouraged me to continue my garden. Once again thanks for all you tips and tutorials. ❤
You're welcome! Keep playing with watermelon, and you'll eventually nail the timing. They all come down to timing properly. They like a lot of heat. Smaller varieties of watermelon are easier to grow and figure out the learning curve.
@@TheMillennialGardener That’s good advice. Got any variety recommendations for my climate? I live at the edge of 9a in South Alabama. Very hot, very humid.😅
I'm up in Northern Pennsylvania . Our nights have been below zero . I started seeds this week! Buying seeds that is . 😂 The frost leaves our ground in late March to early April . In the meantime I will be watching this channel and several others until them . Happy growing in 2025 people .
You can do it! Definitely give it a try! Once you get the hang of starting seeds, you'll never go back to buying transplants. It's so much cheaper and you get 1,000 times more variety. Plus, there's the reward of doing it all yourself.
You can use shade cloth to harden off. In the Spring and Fall a 50% is fine. In the summer, have a 50% cloth installed, then lay a 35% over that, and after 3 - 4 days removed the 35%. After about 6 - 8 days put them under 35%, and after 10 - 12 days they can deal with full sun.
Your videos are always so fun and informative. I finally got a seedling heating mat and grew light, but it's far too far away. So I'll figure out how to lower it so i can make sure i have as intense as the light will let me.
I'm so excited for seed starting this year! This is my 2nd year gardening ever and my mom has been calling me a psycho 😂. I got a 10 x 7 greenhouse to fill this year. Let's GOOOOOO!
Thanks for this advice! I've already started my super hot peppers and more onions and leeks. It's looking good so far. I took them off the heat mat when they broke through and immediately started the grow lights. But I think they were too far above because some of the peppers look tall. I put the lights closer and I'm hoping that'll give them time for true leaves to form before getting taller.
LOL. I committed all 8 of these last year & never made it to #9. LOL. Thank God there are gardeners in my area that sold plants at a decent price. Who can afford Lowe's, Wal-Mart & the like, selling at $5 a plant. I think that is ridiculous. One other mistake I made is not taking the clear top of the plants after they popped up. I know, sounds like I should have known, but I didn't, dah! 😂. I'm so glad you are teaching us all this info. Thank you very much. Dang, Dandy Dale was walking on his leash so well. Shows you've spent time teaching him. Showing your responsible ownership. I take poopy bags with me to pick up Kenji's feces & throw in trash when I get home. Urine can't catch that, but I try not to let him urinate in the same place all the time. I really think it's very rude of dog owners to leave pop on your lawn or driveway. A man down the street 2-3 houses would purposely take his dog across the street every day 2-3 a day & let his dog poop on the neighbors yard, simply because he didn't want to pick it up or he was too lazy. Bad neighbor for all of us. Give Dandy Dale a hug & ❤.
When a light source is weak, a plant will literally stretch itself out in an attempt to reach the light. When you are growing seedlings in a warm environment, like a very warm room or with a seedling heat mat, it accelerates this process even more. It is critical to give them very intense light so they don't have to stretch out to reach it. It's also good to tone down the temp a little after everything germinates. Use the seedling heat mat to maximize germination, but then once you get said germination, turn it off. Some people even move their seedlings to a cooler area to slow down their growth. Cooler temps in the 65-70 degree range with intense light can produce really stocky seedlings.
Last time i waited 6-8 weeks before the last frost on my super hots and manzano pepoers I had to bring them inside in September to get ripe peppers in November. I've already started them this year.
Thank you for sharing your water soluble fertilizer. My husband complains anytime I fertilize my seedlings so I under fertilize. Or I would have to leave my seedlings outside overnight and sneak my trays inside when we’re at work until the smell goes away.
My winter sowing containers are out in the snow! Exciting. Trying root parsley for the first time this year. Anyone else trying a veg/herb/fruit for the first time this year?
Thank you for the great info. I did make mistakes planting frost sensitive plants too early indoor last year. I’m still beginner comes to staring seeds indoors. This video gave me more knowledge. Mr. Dale needs a blinker what he’s about to do. Believe me, I’ve been there…. my Jack Russells decide to make next move all of the sudden. LOL…. A long lead definitely helps!
Thanks for sharing your vast garden knowledge with us, friend! HOOYAH! I'm starting as much as I can from seed indoors this year. East Tennessee, Zone 7B....🧑🌾🌽🍅🍹🍻🍺🥃🇺🇲🏴☠️
I haven’t found water soluble organic fertilizer that is odorless. The 20-20-20 works well, and it is so cheap it is practically free since you need so little.
My last frost date isnt until April 30th. Im chomping at the bit so i already started all my onions and such. Its getting really hard not to start brassicas already
Definitely start your brassicas. If you start them now, they won't be ready to go out until mid-March or later. That's cutting it close with an April frost date, since they struggle with heat more than cold. I'll be putting my brassicas out probably on Valentine's Day, and my last frost date is about March 30.
My last frost almost the same as yours. I start brassicas 8 weeks before last frost (March 1) and they get planted 2 weeks before last frost (April 15). After about 50-60 days, they will be ready to harvest (mid June) before it gets too hot.
11:52 Talking about grow lights..I don't see anyone mentioning reflective surfaces. Mylar or crinkled aluminum foil all around the grow area sends some light back toward the plants. Light that would otherwise be lost to the ether.
Yes. I taped some very shiny foil to the sides of my propagator and it really helps. I only did two sides so I can still look inside from the other two sides.
This is probably unnecessary for most. Because this video is about simply starting seeds for transplanting after 4-6 weeks, it's usually unnecessary to go to such lengths. The use of reflective foils is often done to bring plants to maturity, or to actually grow full-sized fruits. If I were growing a tomato plant entirely in a grow-light scenario for me to eat the fruits, this would be a very good idea since getting a plant to actually grow and mature full-sized fruit requires a lot of photosynthesis. However, to simply get seedlings to a height of 3-4 inches to then acclimate to true sunlight outdoors, you probably won't need to do such a thing.
I just realized I need to replace my grow lightbulb! Excellent video! Question: Why do directions say to start brassicas 6-8 weeks before last frost date which is too late? I'm in zone 6 and the nurseries here have broccoli seedlings ready to plant in March. Thank You buddy!
I'm glad the video could provide some help. If you made a couple mistakes, a lot of them are correctable. If you sowed things too early, just make sure you have some larger containers to keep them content before transplanting. Another strategy is to keep them in a cooler location to slow down their growth and stunt them. Keeping them in a ~60 degree area will slow them down a lot compared to a ~75 degree area.
Putting your seedling dirt that you buy from the store in the oven at 250° for a little bit helps sanitize the substrate. It helps prevent fungal growth. If you do get fungal growth a hydrogen peroxide water mix in a spray bottle does well to fight it.
You can. I have demonstrated this in the past. But, I find complicating matters is a barrier of entry for new gardeners, and I try to find simpler solutions. I have found too many steps discourages folks, and my biggest motivation is to encourage new folks to garden.
@TheMillennialGardener Awesome to PM you. I understand that completely. Even just talking about fertilizer discourages some people. I've tried helping friends out and as I'm explaining it to him they just give me this like you said "this is too much I'm overwhelmed" face. I honestly think a lot of it is when people put a seed in a cell or in the ground and they have these visions and dreams of what they're going to be eating soon or smelling soon or just looking at soon. When it doesn't work out they get discouraged and they think they don't have a "Green thumb". I told him that you're trying to grow a specific thing in a specific spot. If you look all around you there's stuff growing all by itself. The habitat we need is here. we just have to tweak learn the specific thing and have to help that specific spot and we can figure it out. I'm Dustin Western North Carolina. I've been watching you for probably a year or so. I like your channel you have good information. Thank you
Idk about you guys, but my grow light has to be 18" away. Otherwise, my soil will be in the 90°F range. I guess not all lights have "sun mode"? 😅 hopefully, my mint seeds didn't turn into charcoal. I guess I'll find out soon. I'm glad I decided to do a test run. I'm learning a lot!
I have the same looking grow lights he has in the video, and I find the same thing as you say, my lights are 14" to 16" away and my seedlings do great, any closer they don't do well. I bought a cheap light meter that measure LUX and what works for me is about 12K LUX for brand new seedlings and up to 20K for seedling closer to transplant.
Sounds like you are using a halogen or fluorescent light. LED’s give off no heat. Something like halogen has more intensity, but you would probably get better results moving it closer if you can.
The heat mat is still useful at night vs cycling off with the lights. That said, I do remove seedlings from the heat mat or turn off totally a couple days after germination..
Heat can work against you after a certain point. Once you get germination and everything is standing strong, you can usually cut it unless you’re starting them in a really cold basement or something.
Zone 4b // central SD - last frost May 15, but soil temps are 40F. It is around June 1 for soil temps hit 60F & I'm comfortable transplanting. 2025 is my 4th year garden & I've learned a lot about this. Feedback is welcome & appreciated.
I have found soil temperatures to be grossly overestimated for transplanting. What matters more is air temperatures. Soil temperatures can also be heavily manipulated by temporarily placing weed barrier or black plastic around your plants to attract warmth. I pay no mind to soil temperatures outside and I only concern myself with them for seed starting to maximize germination. If you are transplanting, that takes soil temps out of the equation for sowing seed.
Good info! Question for a fellow engineer. We're doing a seed starting workshop in a couple of weeks and my topic is light (Intensity, duration and quality). Just like your video, I want our participants to understand that to grow good veggie seedlings they will need a light source that provides enough intensity (Lumens - not less than 2500), Quality (5000K or more) and duration (16 hours), So being the nerd I am, I've been looking at the inverse square law as applied to LED Shop lights to discuss how distance from the light impacts seedling (don't put the lights 12" from your seedlings!!) and am asking for your opinion. I believe the law doesn't apply as stated that intensity decreases as 1 over the distance squared for a grow light. I know the light decreases fast as distance increases but not as the rule implies. Do you have any thoughts on how light intensity decreases as a function of inches (rather than feet or meters)? I'm over thinking it but I really want to discourage participants from putting their veggie seedlings in a "sunny window" since I know that will just promote leggy seedlings.
I'm not sure what you mean. If you mean directly in ground, they will struggle to germinate in soil, and when they finally do, they will be killed by a late frost or freeze. As transplants, all your warm weather crops should be sown in winter indoors. For example, your tomatoes, peppers, etc. should be ~6 weeks old at your last frost date. That will require starting them during winter inside. I've already started some of my early tomatoes, and I do the "big sow" of all my tomatoes and peppers in about 2 weeks to go out in my garden about April 1.
Unfortunately, a lot of the vegetables we grow are tropical in nature, such as eggplants, peppers, and tomatoes, which do not have the adaptation to prevent seed germination for a set number of hours of cold weather. They may not germinate below a certain temperature, but as soon as the seed feels a warm day come, it will, which makes it vulnerable to a late frost.
Ok holler at me now I started a 72 cell tray of half marigolds and African Daisies,trying to have them ready for Memorial Day for cemeteries. In house for awhile then greenhouse. Will start onions this Sunday and possibly broccoli.
I always get stuck with my super hot peppers too late and I don’t get fruit until September. I grow in containers. I was gonna start my superiors in February. I’m in zone 6B. Last frost date is may1. When I read articles on super hits they say February is the polint where you should start them. Does that sound right?
IDK but when I put my lights, which look almost the same as you have in the video, 2 to 4 inches away from my seedlings, it's way too close all my seedlings were dying. I saw one guy recommend a cheap light meter that measures LUX and according to him for brand new seedlings you want no more than 1200 LUX and for bigger seedlings 2000LUX and that has seemed to work great. My lights are 14 inches away from my seedlings and they do great and don't get leggy so IDK
Seedling heat mat? Geez I'm having to put ice packs under trays because of spinach (below 70 F), lettuce (various types below 75F). I'd like to say that air temp in the house would keep them there other than the spinach but even LED grow lights put out heat when you have it bright enough to keep seedlings from stretching out for light. Most seeds will germinate easily in the range of 70 - 77F and if a person is starting in their home, homes are typically in that range so no heat mat required and lighting will bring the temp up a little. So far I only need a heat mat for peppers (80 - 84F) and tomatoes (77 - 80F). I've never dealt with hot peppers so I don't know if the temp. range is any different than sweet peppers. And with the peppers I keep them on a heat mat for a couple weeks after they start and slowly lower the temp on them until they're fine at room temp.
Seedlings do better with cooler air temps (60-70) and warm soil temps(75-85). You will get stronger, stockier seedlings. You may want to move them to a cooler spot. I keep my house at 69 in the winter, so it helps keep them in check. A lot of folks set up their grow lights in basements for this reason. They stay 60-ish and the heat mats keep soil in the upper 70’s. But, we do not have basements here on the coast.
So, you being from NJ area, Im in NY, and I have major issues with when to start cool weather seeds. Is this a good time to start onions, cabbage, kale, and collard seeds?
Generally, you transplant cool crops 4-6 weeks before your last frost date, and it takes 6-7 weeks to grow nice cool season transplants. So, you would start your cool crops indoors 10-13 weeks before your last frost date. Then, you’d want to fine tune it over time.
I sincerely appreciate your videos and follow your many recommendations. My question is on grow lights. The area I have to germinate plants is 28” X 48”. How many of the lights you listed do you recommend. Or do you have a better recommendation. Of course price is a consideration. Thank you in advance Also I looked at the specifications for the FREELICHT 1 Pack 4ft LED Grow Light, 60W (350W Equivalent), Sunlike Full Spectrum you linked and it list the color at 3500K which by my understanding too low. I am under the impression it should be 5000-6500K for plants. Am I in error or did they make an error in their description?
Consider ordinary LED "shop lights", they're very cheap and you can buy them in 60cm 18W, 120cm 32W etc. No need to buy the expensive stuff. And you're right, 3500K is no good. 6000K would be great.
I'm also in SC 8b. I would start now. I've had volunteers come up in Feb. The heat comes on so fast here. I'm a NY transplant and it took a long time to figure out gardening here.
@lisazappolo9989 "Thank you for the tips! I'm from Connecticut and have been trying to get the timing right for the past 3 years, but I always end up planting too early 😄. This will be my first time starting seeds under grow lights!"
I start my tomatoes the 2nd week of February and plan to transplant them somewhere around April 1, depending on the forecast. Sometimes, things are great and I can get them out a couple days earlier. Some years, I have to wait a week if the forecast is rough.
Buried under snow. I planted them both. My best producer is Star, which is a Southern Highbush. Star and O’Neal are perfect pollinators for each other. Southern Highbush are early. Rabbiteye are a month later.
Technically, plants only use the red and blue spectrum to grow. The leaves of plants are green because they reflect the green (middle) spectrum. But I can’t deal with them for my eyes. I can’t work in an office glowing purple, so I use warm white.
i live in wilmington ans getting older and would to learn some things about gardenning in this area with certain crops let me know if i can chat with you sometime i live close to the carolina beach area and alot of sand and problem with apple trees
You’re definitely going to be very early. I recommend once they germinate you move them to a cool room, around 60-65 degrees, with very strong light. Cool temps and strong light will make them grow more slowly and stockier. If they are in a warm area, they will grow rapidly and your plants will be gigantic by the time your frost date comes.
I'm curious if you have soil blocked? I'm out of Charleston sc area and watch your videos. I'm doing soil blocking the season for the 1st time. So far so good.. I think lol
Do you mean physically making soil blocks? I have never done so. I exclusively use trays and peat pellets for seed starting indoors. I would also never use the native soil in our region. It is loaded with root knot nematodes. Charleston's soil has a lot of them, so you have to be careful.
@TheMillennialGardener Soil blocks you can use your own medium. And the blocks get put on a tray, it take away cell trays. You also bottom water them, I find it easier that I can see each one and if the block needs water. Others say it's helps to air prune the roots.. roots stop growing when it hits the air so it puts the energy back in the plant. Just was curious. Thanks for the videos.
Is the date beside the number of views (Jan. 24) the date this video was filmed? When you say "We've had 19 degree nights and it's supposed to be even colder next week," I don't know how to interpret that. I know you're not a weather video, but after the past two weeks my cold weather antenna remains up!
No. It has been 20 degrees below average almost every day since Christmas. Almost nothing has melted thus far. Tonight is another night in the high teens/low 20's. Things aren't going to moderate to "average" until Sunday/Monday.
Thank you for all that information. There are a couple things that I learned today that I never would have thought of like the oscillating fan. By the way, what's your first name? lol. I once referred to you by the name Dale not knowing that was your dog's name. My apologies.
The MIGardener says not to start small seeds in a 3in pot. I am interested to know because I do a lot of tomatoes for my self. Watch his 10 tips to starting seeds and then give us your option. Thanks.
I agree with that. I do not start my seedlings directly in 3 inch pots. I use small cells and/or peat pellets, and then I up-pot them after germination and 2-3 sets of true leaves form. If I started all my seeds in 3 inch pots, considering I start hundreds of plants at a time, I would need an enormous space to do so, plus a ridiculous number of big seedling heat mats. I am currently starting about 400 seedlings on a single 48"x20.75" heat mat with 2 simple grow lights, but if I used 3 inch pots for every one of them, I would probably need 6-8 of those mats for them all to fit, plus I would need over a dozen more grow lights. The cost would be nightmarish. That may work if you only start a couple dozen plants, but if that's all you're starting, then up-potting becomes very simple.
I wouldn’t recommend you do that. Persimmons do not grow true, and American persimmons can be male or female. You can wait 10 years to find out you have a non-fruit producing tree or one with very bad fruit. I recommend getting a grafted tree. Something with known quality fruit and self-fertility. You’ll be eating in 2-3 years.
But, they're so outrageously expensive to operate, they have a short lifespan, and they really mess with temperatures. Using HID's makes it very difficult to fine-tune your environment. I would advocate for a system using good LED's, heat mats and thermostats. It will save you money, it will last longer, you'll be able to better control your environment, and it'll be safer to operate.
You need to do it over cloudy days or in shade as I mentioned. I gave a dedicated speech for people that work full time and can't in the video. You can also use multiple pieces of shade cloth and start at a high percentage and progressively thin them, such as going from 70% to 40%.
what do u do ablut squerils and birds with fruit trees i covered my contender peach tree with everything i could iomagine and lost all but 3 out of 80 fruits(delicious by the ay and fruit twice if ur lucky) but lose so much to rodents
I haven't found that to be effective, unfortunately. When I have had issues with damping off, I've tried to use peroxide as a remedy, and it was not successful. The best course of action is to simply not overwater and to use vermiculite where you can.
You can, but you need a lot of room. I cannot start 300 plants in 3 inch pots. I would need 6 48 inch seedling heat mats. The best way to do it is to start them in small trays and up-pot unless you have a huge setup.
It takes quite awhile to film and edit a video. Typically, the videos are filmed anywhere from 7-10 days before they're posted. When I get bad forecasts full of cold in the winter, or non-stop rain in the summer, I often have to bulk-film multiple videos before weather events hit and I space them out.
Lots of good advice here, but PLEASE stop recommending peat. It takes so long to form that there is no such thing as a sustainable peat industry at the rate we use it, no matter what the advertising says. The more it’s recommended, the more demand increases and we’re already losing swathes of important habitat to peat mining.
YES! I have watched the video 4 times on different devices and it keeps saying something is wrong and won’t continue. I asked my husband to try on his phone and it randomly played in Spanish for a couple of minutes and then fixed itself, then stopped loading too. It’s so strange, our internet is fine. I heard about that happening to others’ videos (the language thing) a few weeks ago and they had to re-upload.
I can assure you, the only language I speak with any competency is English. UA-cam is beginning to automatically dub videos now using AI, so people that speak other languages can enjoy content from all over the world. A setting must have been clicked accidentally in the application, or there was a glitch. Switching the audio back to the original audio should fix it.
If you found this video helpful, please *LIKE* it and share it to help spread its reach! Thanks for watching 🙂TIMESTAMPS for convenience:
0:00 Introduction
0:36 Seed Starting Mistake #1
2:08 When To Start Seeds For Warm Season Crops
3:08 Seed Starting Mistake #2
4:38 Timing Transplants In HOT Summer Climates
6:35 Seed Starting Mistake #3
8:52 Seed Starting Mistake #4
11:05 Seed Starting Mistake #5
12:08 Grow Light Schedule
14:22 Seed Starting Mistake #6
17:19 Seed Starting Mistake #7
19:59 How To Fertilize Seedling Transplants
21:36 Seed Starting Mistake #8
22:44 Seed Starting Mistake #9
23:44 How To Harden Off Seedlings To Sunlight
26:15 Adventures With Dale
I find peppers to be the one exception, I start them very early because they grow much slower, and the first harvests are bigger if the plant is more mature when I transplanted it.
I start my peppers mid February, eggplant early March and tomatoes late march. They all get planted at the same time.
Yes! I think peppers look beautiful, so I put them in nice pots and treat them house plants until it's warm (with grow lights).
This is true for very hot peppers, like the novelties (Ghost, Reaper, Scorpion, etc.). I advise everyone plant them an entire month early. Your standard sweet peppers and common, every day "hot peppers" can get very large after 6-8 weeks. By week 8, they are becoming stressed and will try flowering in a 3.5-inch square pot.
I listened to you last year Abt the heat mat and the best advice I've taken from you. Had huge beautiful plants!!
It is a game-changer. A heat mat and thermostat combo is the best $40 you'll ever spend. It will pay for itself in no time, especially considering stores are selling plants for like $4 each these days 😂
Top Shelf content. I am a habitual over-waterer of little seedlings and I think putting a breeze on them a few hours a day will probably save them. Thank you!
I am, as well. That is how I figured out vermiculite. It is my biggest weakness. I’m glad you liked the video!
Thank you for this video! These are all mistakes I will try to avoid as a beginner!😅 Overwatering is something that I struggle with. I have parsley seedlings that I am growing indoors that I haven’t watered in a week and they seem to be doing well. The next thing is fertilizing and knowing when to. I will start thinking about that. Keep the videos coming! ❤🌿
Thank goodness it's time to start thinking about our gardens! 🎉
This was a rollercoaster. Im very new to gardening in florida. Strike 1 - i was a couple weeks late to starting my seedlings. Strike 2 - i put like 4 tomato seeds per cell. Hopefully i can split them easily. But i did use a heat mat and my God. The tomatoes all germinated in like 3 days and near 100% success. Cant wait to keep learning.
Well done! Great information and explanation! Excellent lighting,video, photography and commentary 👍💐❤️
Hello. Thanks for all your videos. I almost successfully grew a watermelon last year. And it encouraged me to continue my garden. Once again thanks for all you tips and tutorials. ❤
You're welcome! Keep playing with watermelon, and you'll eventually nail the timing. They all come down to timing properly. They like a lot of heat. Smaller varieties of watermelon are easier to grow and figure out the learning curve.
@@TheMillennialGardener
That’s good advice. Got any variety recommendations for my climate? I live at the edge of 9a in South Alabama. Very hot, very humid.😅
One of your most outstanding videos. Thanks!
I really appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
I'm up in Northern Pennsylvania . Our nights have been below zero . I started seeds this week! Buying seeds that is . 😂 The frost leaves our ground in late March to early April . In the meantime I will be watching this channel and several others until them . Happy growing in 2025 people .
Very informative. Gives me courage to try. Thank you!!
You can do it! Definitely give it a try! Once you get the hang of starting seeds, you'll never go back to buying transplants. It's so much cheaper and you get 1,000 times more variety. Plus, there's the reward of doing it all yourself.
You can use shade cloth to harden off. In the Spring and Fall a 50% is fine. In the summer, have a 50% cloth installed, then lay a 35% over that, and after 3 - 4 days removed the 35%. After about 6 - 8 days put them under 35%, and after 10 - 12 days they can deal with full sun.
You can, but it would be a lot of effort for new gardeners. My favorite method is, by far, the cloudy sky method. It is the best, in my opinion.
Your videos are always so fun and informative. I finally got a seedling heating mat and grew light, but it's far too far away. So I'll figure out how to lower it so i can make sure i have as intense as the light will let me.
I'm so excited for seed starting this year! This is my 2nd year gardening ever and my mom has been calling me a psycho 😂. I got a 10 x 7 greenhouse to fill this year. Let's GOOOOOO!
Very informative as usual! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this advice! I've already started my super hot peppers and more onions and leeks. It's looking good so far. I took them off the heat mat when they broke through and immediately started the grow lights. But I think they were too far above because some of the peppers look tall. I put the lights closer and I'm hoping that'll give them time for true leaves to form before getting taller.
LOL. I committed all 8 of these last year & never made it to #9. LOL. Thank God there are gardeners in my area that sold plants at a decent price. Who can afford Lowe's, Wal-Mart & the like, selling at $5 a plant. I think that is ridiculous.
One other mistake I made is not taking the clear top of the plants after they popped up. I know, sounds like I should have known, but I didn't, dah! 😂. I'm so glad you are teaching us all this info. Thank you very much.
Dang, Dandy Dale was walking on his leash so well. Shows you've spent time teaching him. Showing your responsible ownership. I take poopy bags with me to pick up Kenji's feces & throw in trash when I get home. Urine can't catch that, but I try not to let him urinate in the same place all the time. I really think it's very rude of dog owners to leave pop on your lawn or driveway.
A man down the street 2-3 houses would purposely take his dog across the street every day 2-3 a day & let his dog poop on the neighbors yard, simply because he didn't want to pick it up or he was too lazy. Bad neighbor for all of us. Give Dandy Dale a hug & ❤.
I tried it for the first time last year and I thought. "Wow they are growing so fast" Then I learned what "leggy" is. They were all ruined.
When a light source is weak, a plant will literally stretch itself out in an attempt to reach the light. When you are growing seedlings in a warm environment, like a very warm room or with a seedling heat mat, it accelerates this process even more. It is critical to give them very intense light so they don't have to stretch out to reach it. It's also good to tone down the temp a little after everything germinates. Use the seedling heat mat to maximize germination, but then once you get said germination, turn it off. Some people even move their seedlings to a cooler area to slow down their growth. Cooler temps in the 65-70 degree range with intense light can produce really stocky seedlings.
Very good info I learn something every time. I'm just on my 3rd yr of gardening. Getting alittle better each yr
I have those larger trays and love them for starting my warm season transplants.
As always you are a wealth of information
Thanks
You're welcome! I'm glad the video was helpful.
@@TheMillennialGardener
You never disappoint me with your input
Stay warm
Last time i waited 6-8 weeks before the last frost on my super hots and manzano pepoers I had to bring them inside in September to get ripe peppers in November.
I've already started them this year.
I start all my peppers in mid February to go out the end of May
Thanks for sharing it's appreciated !!
You're welcome!
Thank you for sharing your water soluble fertilizer. My husband complains anytime I fertilize my seedlings so I under fertilize. Or I would have to leave my seedlings outside overnight and sneak my trays inside when we’re at work until the smell goes away.
My winter sowing containers are out in the snow! Exciting. Trying root parsley for the first time this year. Anyone else trying a veg/herb/fruit for the first time this year?
Thank you for the great info. I did make mistakes planting frost sensitive plants too early indoor last year. I’m still beginner comes to staring seeds indoors. This video gave me more knowledge. Mr. Dale needs a blinker what he’s about to do. Believe me, I’ve been there…. my Jack Russells decide to make next move all of the sudden. LOL…. A long lead definitely helps!
110 percent excellent video!
Thank you very much!
Thank you so much! Your videos were incredibly helpful in developing our game!
You’re welcome! I am glad to hear I could help!
@@TheMillennialGardener best tutorials on plant ever!
Excellent vid!
Thank you!
Great Tips!
Thank you!
Great information, like the adding a circular fan to seedlings
It truly makes a big difference!
What about bottom watering with the fertilizer. Is that ok?, or better to do as you do, top watering.
You can do whatever you prefer. It doesn't really matter.
Live the reminders.
Yes. Thank you!
You’re welcome!
Thank you! Well done!
You are welcome! I'm glad you found it helpful.
Thanks for sharing your vast garden knowledge with us, friend! HOOYAH! I'm starting as much as I can from seed indoors this year. East Tennessee, Zone 7B....🧑🌾🌽🍅🍹🍻🍺🥃🇺🇲🏴☠️
Outstanding! So glad to hear it!
I like my organic it doesn't small bad when I get it in the plants. I am glad of that
I haven’t found water soluble organic fertilizer that is odorless. The 20-20-20 works well, and it is so cheap it is practically free since you need so little.
My last frost date isnt until April 30th. Im chomping at the bit so i already started all my onions and such. Its getting really hard not to start brassicas already
Definitely start your brassicas. If you start them now, they won't be ready to go out until mid-March or later. That's cutting it close with an April frost date, since they struggle with heat more than cold. I'll be putting my brassicas out probably on Valentine's Day, and my last frost date is about March 30.
My last frost almost the same as yours. I start brassicas 8 weeks before last frost (March 1) and they get planted 2 weeks before last frost (April 15). After about 50-60 days, they will be ready to harvest (mid June) before it gets too hot.
thank for shairing ❤
You're welcome!
11:52 Talking about grow lights..I don't see anyone mentioning reflective surfaces. Mylar or crinkled aluminum foil all around the grow area sends some light back toward the plants. Light that would otherwise be lost to the ether.
Thank you for the idea
Yes. I taped some very shiny foil to the sides of my propagator and it really helps. I only did two sides so I can still look inside from the other two sides.
This is probably unnecessary for most. Because this video is about simply starting seeds for transplanting after 4-6 weeks, it's usually unnecessary to go to such lengths. The use of reflective foils is often done to bring plants to maturity, or to actually grow full-sized fruits. If I were growing a tomato plant entirely in a grow-light scenario for me to eat the fruits, this would be a very good idea since getting a plant to actually grow and mature full-sized fruit requires a lot of photosynthesis. However, to simply get seedlings to a height of 3-4 inches to then acclimate to true sunlight outdoors, you probably won't need to do such a thing.
I just realized I need to replace my grow lightbulb!
Excellent video!
Question: Why do directions say to start brassicas 6-8 weeks before last frost date which is too late?
I'm in zone 6 and the nurseries here have broccoli seedlings ready to plant in March.
Thank You buddy!
Wow!! This video is a game changer. Needles to say I made all 9 mistakes 😂. I’m pretty sure I need to start over.
I'm glad the video could provide some help. If you made a couple mistakes, a lot of them are correctable. If you sowed things too early, just make sure you have some larger containers to keep them content before transplanting. Another strategy is to keep them in a cooler location to slow down their growth and stunt them. Keeping them in a ~60 degree area will slow them down a lot compared to a ~75 degree area.
@ oh okay great. Thank you
For expensive seeds. put 1 per cell and just plant double the cells you actually need. Better than trying to split young seedlings.
as someone that never sees frost, i find this video very informative
I envy you 😄
Just ordered a heat mat with termostat, yay
They are game-changers.
You are awesome! Thank you so much!!
You are very welcome! I am glad I can help!
Putting your seedling dirt that you buy from the store in the oven at 250° for a little bit helps sanitize the substrate. It helps prevent fungal growth. If you do get fungal growth a hydrogen peroxide water mix in a spray bottle does well to fight it.
You can. I have demonstrated this in the past. But, I find complicating matters is a barrier of entry for new gardeners, and I try to find simpler solutions. I have found too many steps discourages folks, and my biggest motivation is to encourage new folks to garden.
@TheMillennialGardener Awesome to PM you. I understand that completely. Even just talking about fertilizer discourages some people. I've tried helping friends out and as I'm explaining it to him they just give me this like you said "this is too much I'm overwhelmed" face. I honestly think a lot of it is when people put a seed in a cell or in the ground and they have these visions and dreams of what they're going to be eating soon or smelling soon or just looking at soon. When it doesn't work out they get discouraged and they think they don't have a "Green thumb". I told him that you're trying to grow a specific thing in a specific spot. If you look all around you there's stuff growing all by itself. The habitat we need is here. we just have to tweak learn the specific thing and have to help that specific spot and we can figure it out. I'm Dustin Western North Carolina. I've been watching you for probably a year or so. I like your channel you have good information. Thank you
Some tomatoes plant grow about an inch a day. They quickly outgrow their welcome wth limited space
Idk about you guys, but my grow light has to be 18" away. Otherwise, my soil will be in the 90°F range. I guess not all lights have "sun mode"? 😅 hopefully, my mint seeds didn't turn into charcoal. I guess I'll find out soon. I'm glad I decided to do a test run. I'm learning a lot!
I have the same looking grow lights he has in the video, and I find the same thing as you say, my lights are 14" to 16" away and my seedlings do great, any closer they don't do well. I bought a cheap light meter that measure LUX and what works for me is about 12K LUX for brand new seedlings and up to 20K for seedling closer to transplant.
Sounds like you are using a halogen or fluorescent light. LED’s give off no heat. Something like halogen has more intensity, but you would probably get better results moving it closer if you can.
Onions started and very difficult not to start my peppers and tomatoes yet. Lol
Start some brassicas and lettuce. That keeps us busy for a couple more weeks 🥬
The heat mat is still useful at night vs cycling off with the lights. That said, I do remove seedlings from the heat mat or turn off totally a couple days after germination..
Heat can work against you after a certain point. Once you get germination and everything is standing strong, you can usually cut it unless you’re starting them in a really cold basement or something.
Zone 4b // central SD - last frost May 15, but soil temps are 40F.
It is around June 1 for soil temps hit 60F & I'm comfortable transplanting.
2025 is my 4th year garden & I've learned a lot about this. Feedback is welcome & appreciated.
I have found soil temperatures to be grossly overestimated for transplanting. What matters more is air temperatures. Soil temperatures can also be heavily manipulated by temporarily placing weed barrier or black plastic around your plants to attract warmth. I pay no mind to soil temperatures outside and I only concern myself with them for seed starting to maximize germination. If you are transplanting, that takes soil temps out of the equation for sowing seed.
Good info! Question for a fellow engineer. We're doing a seed starting workshop in a couple of weeks and my topic is light (Intensity, duration and quality). Just like your video, I want our participants to understand that to grow good veggie seedlings they will need a light source that provides enough intensity (Lumens - not less than 2500), Quality (5000K or more) and duration (16 hours), So being the nerd I am, I've been looking at the inverse square law as applied to LED Shop lights to discuss how distance from the light impacts seedling (don't put the lights 12" from your seedlings!!) and am asking for your opinion. I believe the law doesn't apply as stated that intensity decreases as 1 over the distance squared for a grow light. I know the light decreases fast as distance increases but not as the rule implies. Do you have any thoughts on how light intensity decreases as a function of inches (rather than feet or meters)?
I'm over thinking it but I really want to discourage participants from putting their veggie seedlings in a "sunny window" since I know that will just promote leggy seedlings.
Great ideas. Question! What do you think about winter sowing for warm weather plants?
I'm not sure what you mean. If you mean directly in ground, they will struggle to germinate in soil, and when they finally do, they will be killed by a late frost or freeze. As transplants, all your warm weather crops should be sown in winter indoors. For example, your tomatoes, peppers, etc. should be ~6 weeks old at your last frost date. That will require starting them during winter inside. I've already started some of my early tomatoes, and I do the "big sow" of all my tomatoes and peppers in about 2 weeks to go out in my garden about April 1.
Unfortunately, a lot of the vegetables we grow are tropical in nature, such as eggplants, peppers, and tomatoes, which do not have the adaptation to prevent seed germination for a set number of hours of cold weather. They may not germinate below a certain temperature, but as soon as the seed feels a warm day come, it will, which makes it vulnerable to a late frost.
Question, if I have my plants in a greenhouse enclosure with plastic and lots of light I still need to harden them off outside the greenhouse?
I like your grow light stand. Are there plans available or a site to visit for measurements? Thanks.
Hi, I just found your video on how you built the stand.
Excellent! It's really easy to build, and so cheap with just a piece of pipe and some fittings.
Ok holler at me now I started a 72 cell tray of half marigolds and African Daisies,trying to have them ready for Memorial Day for cemeteries. In house for awhile then greenhouse. Will start onions this Sunday and possibly broccoli.
I always get stuck with my super hot peppers too late and I don’t get fruit until September. I grow in containers. I was gonna start my superiors in February. I’m in zone 6B. Last frost date is may1. When I read articles on super hits they say February is the polint where you should start them. Does that sound right?
IDK but when I put my lights, which look almost the same as you have in the video, 2 to 4 inches away from my seedlings, it's way too close all my seedlings were dying. I saw one guy recommend a cheap light meter that measures LUX and according to him for brand new seedlings you want no more than 1200 LUX and for bigger seedlings 2000LUX and that has seemed to work great. My lights are 14 inches away from my seedlings and they do great and don't get leggy so IDK
Seedling heat mat?
Geez I'm having to put ice packs under trays because of spinach (below 70 F), lettuce (various types below 75F). I'd like to say that air temp in the house would keep them there other than the spinach but even LED grow lights put out heat when you have it bright enough to keep seedlings from stretching out for light.
Most seeds will germinate easily in the range of 70 - 77F and if a person is starting in their home, homes are typically in that range so no heat mat required and lighting will bring the temp up a little.
So far I only need a heat mat for peppers (80 - 84F) and tomatoes (77 - 80F). I've never dealt with hot peppers so I don't know if the temp. range is any different than sweet peppers. And with the peppers I keep them on a heat mat for a couple weeks after they start and slowly lower the temp on them until they're fine at room temp.
Seedlings do better with cooler air temps (60-70) and warm soil temps(75-85). You will get stronger, stockier seedlings. You may want to move them to a cooler spot. I keep my house at 69 in the winter, so it helps keep them in check.
A lot of folks set up their grow lights in basements for this reason. They stay 60-ish and the heat mats keep soil in the upper 70’s. But, we do not have basements here on the coast.
So, you being from NJ area, Im in NY, and I have major issues with when to start cool weather seeds. Is this a good time to start onions, cabbage, kale, and collard seeds?
Generally, you transplant cool crops 4-6 weeks before your last frost date, and it takes 6-7 weeks to grow nice cool season transplants. So, you would start your cool crops indoors 10-13 weeks before your last frost date. Then, you’d want to fine tune it over time.
I sincerely appreciate your videos and follow your many recommendations. My question is on grow lights. The area I have to germinate plants is 28” X 48”. How many of the lights you listed do you recommend. Or do you have a better recommendation. Of course price is a consideration. Thank you in advance
Also I looked at the specifications for the FREELICHT 1 Pack 4ft LED Grow Light, 60W (350W Equivalent), Sunlike Full Spectrum you linked and it list the color at 3500K which by my understanding too low. I am under the impression it should be 5000-6500K for plants. Am I in error or did they make an error in their description?
Consider ordinary LED "shop lights", they're very cheap and you can buy them in 60cm 18W, 120cm 32W etc. No need to buy the expensive stuff.
And you're right, 3500K is no good. 6000K would be great.
That watering can is genius for seedlings. Where did you find that?
I placed a link in the video description. It is an indoor watering can. It is the best for seedlings.
Hello. I am new to South Carolina in zone 8b. Could you please advise me on the best time to plant tomatoes in our zone?
I'm also in SC 8b. I would start now. I've had volunteers come up in Feb. The heat comes on so fast here. I'm a NY transplant and it took a long time to figure out gardening here.
@lisazappolo9989 "Thank you for the tips! I'm from Connecticut and have been trying to get the timing right for the past 3 years, but I always end up planting too early 😄. This will be my first time starting seeds under grow lights!"
I start my tomatoes the 2nd week of February and plan to transplant them somewhere around April 1, depending on the forecast. Sometimes, things are great and I can get them out a couple days earlier. Some years, I have to wait a week if the forecast is rough.
@TheMillennialGardener Thank You!
Off subject, how are your blueberries? Im also in NC and cant decide between rabbiteye or southern highbush.
Buried under snow. I planted them both. My best producer is Star, which is a Southern Highbush. Star and O’Neal are perfect pollinators for each other. Southern Highbush are early. Rabbiteye are a month later.
If i am starting long day onions indoors, will running the light for 16 hours cause problems when it bulbs in the garden?
Do the red and blue indoor grow lights work better or worse than the bright white lights?
Technically, plants only use the red and blue spectrum to grow. The leaves of plants are green because they reflect the green (middle) spectrum. But I can’t deal with them for my eyes. I can’t work in an office glowing purple, so I use warm white.
i live in wilmington ans getting older and would to learn some things about gardenning in this area with certain crops let me know if i can chat with you sometime i live close to the carolina beach area and alot of sand and problem with apple trees
Eccellent
Thank you!
Awesome it’s very helpful 👍can I use leftover cat can food in my compost ?? Please reply 🙏
I definitely would not 🤮 It would smell awful and attract animals. It also would make the compost unsafe to handle.
@ thank you so much friend 👍
dang it!! i started all my tomatoes today. I am in zone 7a-b. Like I started 30 of them LOLOL We will see!!!!
You’re definitely going to be very early. I recommend once they germinate you move them to a cool room, around 60-65 degrees, with very strong light. Cool temps and strong light will make them grow more slowly and stockier. If they are in a warm area, they will grow rapidly and your plants will be gigantic by the time your frost date comes.
@@TheMillennialGardener I can totally do that!! Thanks! My ADD and excitement made me do it!
I'm curious if you have soil blocked? I'm out of Charleston sc area and watch your videos. I'm doing soil blocking the season for the 1st time. So far so good.. I think lol
Do you mean physically making soil blocks? I have never done so. I exclusively use trays and peat pellets for seed starting indoors. I would also never use the native soil in our region. It is loaded with root knot nematodes. Charleston's soil has a lot of them, so you have to be careful.
@TheMillennialGardener Soil blocks you can use your own medium. And the blocks get put on a tray, it take away cell trays. You also bottom water them, I find it easier that I can see each one and if the block needs water. Others say it's helps to air prune the roots.. roots stop growing when it hits the air so it puts the energy back in the plant. Just was curious. Thanks for the videos.
Is the date beside the number of views (Jan. 24) the date this video was filmed? When you say "We've had 19 degree nights and it's supposed to be even colder next week," I don't know how to interpret that. I know you're not a weather video, but after the past two weeks my cold weather antenna remains up!
13:30 did not know that.
Started onions , NO idea what I'm doing, that's why I listen to you.
You’ll figure it out! The more you do, the better you’ll be. Have fun! This is the best.
Who’s the weather in NC now? Did the cold pass?
No. It has been 20 degrees below average almost every day since Christmas. Almost nothing has melted thus far. Tonight is another night in the high teens/low 20's. Things aren't going to moderate to "average" until Sunday/Monday.
@@TheMillennialGardener Same here in Philly
Thank you for all that information. There are a couple things that I learned today that I never would have thought of like the oscillating fan. By the way, what's your first name? lol. I once referred to you by the name Dale not knowing that was your dog's name. My apologies.
I’m glad I can help! My name is Anthony, but I am honored to be called Dale since I am not half as smart or handsome as him 🐶 🙃
Probably should exclude super hots... I've started my reapers already
My very hot peppers germinated a week ago. I start them before anything else. Super hot peppers are mentioned explicitly in the video.
❤❤❤
Thanks for watching!
…or, plant your heat sensitive crops under deciduous trees - instant shade just when they need it.
How come you don't have snow like the rest of us in wilmington?
This video was filmed before the storm. It takes days to film and edit these videos.
You are awesome. Thank you for all your advice. I will be sad when you move.
The MIGardener says not to start small seeds in a 3in pot. I am interested to know because I do a lot of tomatoes for my self. Watch his 10 tips to starting seeds and then give us your option. Thanks.
I agree with that. I do not start my seedlings directly in 3 inch pots. I use small cells and/or peat pellets, and then I up-pot them after germination and 2-3 sets of true leaves form. If I started all my seeds in 3 inch pots, considering I start hundreds of plants at a time, I would need an enormous space to do so, plus a ridiculous number of big seedling heat mats. I am currently starting about 400 seedlings on a single 48"x20.75" heat mat with 2 simple grow lights, but if I used 3 inch pots for every one of them, I would probably need 6-8 of those mats for them all to fit, plus I would need over a dozen more grow lights. The cost would be nightmarish. That may work if you only start a couple dozen plants, but if that's all you're starting, then up-potting becomes very simple.
I started a persimmon from a seed. It went well but the shell would not come off. I tried helping it and broke the sprout 🙄
I wouldn’t recommend you do that. Persimmons do not grow true, and American persimmons can be male or female. You can wait 10 years to find out you have a non-fruit producing tree or one with very bad fruit. I recommend getting a grafted tree. Something with known quality fruit and self-fertility. You’ll be eating in 2-3 years.
@TheMillennialGardener thank you so much!
Not if you have high pressure sodium or metal halide lights… plenty of light for complete indoor grow and lots of fruit.
Well, both is best, mh for veg and hps for fruit.
But, they're so outrageously expensive to operate, they have a short lifespan, and they really mess with temperatures. Using HID's makes it very difficult to fine-tune your environment. I would advocate for a system using good LED's, heat mats and thermostats. It will save you money, it will last longer, you'll be able to better control your environment, and it'll be safer to operate.
@@TheMillennialGardener I’m just saying you can, definitely downsides. But yes, I agree.
How does a person who has a job acclimate their seedlings? It’s dark when I leave in the morning and dark when I get home🙁
You need to do it over cloudy days or in shade as I mentioned. I gave a dedicated speech for people that work full time and can't in the video. You can also use multiple pieces of shade cloth and start at a high percentage and progressively thin them, such as going from 70% to 40%.
what do u do ablut squerils and birds with fruit trees i covered my contender peach tree with everything i could iomagine and lost all but 3 out of 80 fruits(delicious by the ay and fruit twice if ur lucky) but lose so much to rodents
How about dilute hydrogen peroxide sprayed on seedlings to prevent fungus?
I haven't found that to be effective, unfortunately. When I have had issues with damping off, I've tried to use peroxide as a remedy, and it was not successful. The best course of action is to simply not overwater and to use vermiculite where you can.
Use the baggy method, skip seed starting trays, plant germinated seeds into 3in. pots and you're done!
You can, but you need a lot of room. I cannot start 300 plants in 3 inch pots. I would need 6 48 inch seedling heat mats. The best way to do it is to start them in small trays and up-pot unless you have a huge setup.
1st
Thanks for watching!
Dale's nitrogen is as good as anyone else's nitrogen.
Unfortunately, dog pee is really caustic and burns things badly. You definitely don't want to use that on plants.
I thought you were moving to Florida.WEY
Not until probably 2030, at least. Not anytime soon. It is years away.
U must have made this vid before the snow hit.
It takes quite awhile to film and edit a video. Typically, the videos are filmed anywhere from 7-10 days before they're posted. When I get bad forecasts full of cold in the winter, or non-stop rain in the summer, I often have to bulk-film multiple videos before weather events hit and I space them out.
Lots of good advice here, but PLEASE stop recommending peat. It takes so long to form that there is no such thing as a sustainable peat industry at the rate we use it, no matter what the advertising says. The more it’s recommended, the more demand increases and we’re already losing swathes of important habitat to peat mining.
OK 20 minutes in and I didn't hear English anymore. I don't know what language it was but it was not English. Anybody else?
YES! I have watched the video 4 times on different devices and it keeps saying something is wrong and won’t continue. I asked my husband to try on his phone and it randomly played in Spanish for a couple of minutes and then fixed itself, then stopped loading too. It’s so strange, our internet is fine. I heard about that happening to others’ videos (the language thing) a few weeks ago and they had to re-upload.
@ I'm glad I'm not the only one cause I was beginning to think I was hearing things. 😁
I can assure you, the only language I speak with any competency is English. UA-cam is beginning to automatically dub videos now using AI, so people that speak other languages can enjoy content from all over the world. A setting must have been clicked accidentally in the application, or there was a glitch. Switching the audio back to the original audio should fix it.
@ that must've been it because I went back today and watched and it was all English. Great video by the way!
Love how "daddy doesn't let a Dale pee on people's landscape" 🐶😂
We appreciate that very much 🩷
We try not to. Sometimes, it is impossible with Mr. Hound Inspector, but we try to confine it to big trees, light poles and street signs.
That's not an easy task with mr. Hound 😂 such a great effort, @TheMillennialGardener 🎉