Hello rich,I've spoke to you a few times on a couple small things,just been sitting around going through some of your older videos and just wanna say thanks for the tips and advice that you've experienced, again thanks and appreciate what you give to the hobby!!!
Thanks for all the help Rich! I was finally able to find these shims in stock and installed them on my Kraton. I can't believe how much it quieted down the gears and how smooth it feels! Now I guess I need to install new pivot balls on the servo side of the steering turnbuckle, it just pops off after almost every landing and I even tried a new rod end, can't believe they don't come with pivot balls!
Robert Furlong no problem brother 🤘🤘!!! Glad to hear the gears are doing good 👊. You might've gotten a bum plastic steering link in the composite ball cup set🤔. You can try putting a twist on the opposing link ends, but I highly recommend trying RC Bashing the Kraton's simple mod. Find a rubber washer that just fits around the steering pivot balls from underneath. It stops the links from just popping off. He just did another vid about this problem. 🍻🤘🤘😰😰😰😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash I'll check that video out now! You never fail to reply and answer any questions, I definitely appreciate it brother! Hope you guys are safe with all those fire outbreaks, so sad to see.
Hi mate i know this is a old video but as a retired mechanic I put my shim's under the bearing and the proper way to do it and less problems later putting it together. I always watch your videos mate 👍😁😁.
Thanks Armando 🤗. I know some guys do that too. Just got in the habit of using the outside because it makes it easy to add or subtract shims based on feel when setting the diff into the housing. Hope all is well Brother 🍻
Adam Baker hey no problem brother, much appreciated!!! Glad I'm not the only one forgetting the bearings...Lol. I've actually put the whole diff together only to realize....ohhhh sh....t!!!! Now that is seriously frustrating...Lol. Especially when you've rebuilt so many and it STILL happens... We're only human right??? Happy bashing!!!✌✌😵😵😵😲😲😎🙋👊👊
Nice one D !! I don't know how many times I've rebuilt that Centre diff bra. I kept snapping the stainless insert out it kept leaking. Put in the HR diff cup shimmed on the planetary gear only and I haven't had one drop leak out of that baby 👶 love it. Nothing like a fully serviced rig 👍🏻👍🏻
72nivo thanks brother, that's awesome to hear!!! I've only snapped one of those inserts loose surprisingly, but have heard lots of people say that's been a problem for them. I too will switch to the HR cup if needed. Think there are bad batches of plastic products on occasion. Had a string of A-ARMS fail on me even from regular bashing with no MEGA airs and went RPM. Just glad we have upgrade options. You're right bro, nothing like starting fresh again with a fully serviced, running like new again rig!!! I sat on fixing the Typhon WAY too long. Crunchy bearings, crusty axels, bone dry CVDs...Lol. Happy bashing bro!!!👍👍😵😵😵😎😲😲👌👊👊
Glad to hear im not the only one who has forgot the bearings 🤣😂😂😂🖒🖒😎. Cheers for the part numbers . When i re-oil i will try your method of shimming 😎😎. Awesome to see some drift action at the end 👏👏🤘🤘💪💪💪💪😎 And that lateflip at the start was epic just EPIC 👊👊👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏😎
Rc Anonymous thanks so much brother!!! Shimming the diffs makes a huge difference no doubt, saves you $$$ and time in the end. Gears can still fail and break, but happens WAY less. It was fun to put some test time in the neighborhood...Lol. Good way to make sure things are working right before hitting the dirt again. Happy bashing my friend.👍👍😵😵😵😲😱😎💪👊👊
corey kurtz thanks bro, still shocked I'd somehow missed shimming this rear diff before??? I've done so much swapping parts between my different Arrmas, think I had a brain fade or plopped in a spare diff I had laying around who knows...Lol. Glad to hear you shim yours basically the same way, it makes such a difference in durability. Happy bashing brother!!! 👍😲😲😲😵😵😎🙋👊👊
Peter Weber thanks Peter much appreciated!!! You just reminded me to finish your ESC problem vid with your Xmaxx. I was enjoying it and your jumps earlier and got interrupted by the kids of course. I really like how you explain things as you're bashing, keep up the awesome work my friend!!! 🙋🙋😵😵😵😲😎💪👊👊
Kenny mph Melanko thanks brother, people still ask about the diffs and I've been fixing/rebuilding my share lately. I've gone to keeping a maintenance log cuz I plain forget which rig had what done to it as time goes by...Lol. 👍👍😲😲😲😵😱😎✌👊👊
RCbashing the KRATON thanks brother... LMAO, total low rider with those little GLocs, the nose almost scrapes ground with braking, but nearly impossible to flip and crazy fun for street drifting with hardly any ballooning. Going to try to take better care of the Typhon BEAST. She's been beat down HARD lately...Lol.👍👍😵😵😵😲😲💪👊👊
New subscriber. Ive seen a million of your videos and hey you are prolly the reason i got a Kraton instead of a Nitro Savage. But just realized i wasnt subbed so how can i not be subbed when I own a kraton and you turned me onto it. Not really understanding the whole shim thing but bout to try and work it out since i think its about tine to do some wirk on the ole diffs.
I need to learn more about shimming diffs. I don’t understand it. I just received the EXB and want to know if I should do this before driving it. Thanks for the videos man.
The EXB has completely different diffs from the standard 6s rigs. Shimming is ultimately done by feel. Don't want things either too tight or too loose. The only shims I've added to my EXB are Tekno #1222. I recommend using them on the crown gear side bearing front and rear. 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@derwoodsdiy7710 I finally did after a few runs. You don't need to go too heavy with the center and front LSD diffs. I'm running 50/200/20k front to rear now. 🍻
Rich Duperbash thanks for all the help! (My EXB came without the battery extension slide thing...weird. Lol) I’m going 21T pinion. Hope that’s not too tall! HW 1650 combo.
Hey buddy, hope your having a great weekend. So saw this video is 4 years old now. Is everything in the video what you would still recommend doing and also the shims you would recommend using still? Also what would you recommend for diff oil weight on my 6S Kraton as a starting point for me and my learning process for what I will eventually settle on over time?
12R1 thanks so much brother, forgot to shout out the man Thomas P, without his videos I would've struggled with proper ARRMA diff bulletproofing myself. Cheers to him again!!! Happy bashing my friend!!! Good luck with your Slash speed project, too. Mine needs a motor since borrowing the Castle 2200 for the Typhon. Sticking with 1/8 scale can no doubt...Lol.😱😱😵😵😵😲😎💪👊
I forgot the reason I had heard for the grub screw🤔. Guess you could add/remove silicone perhaps. I never use mine, but have had leakage from one's that weren't properly seated before. 🍻😎💪👊👊
I’ve heard that if you run the hot racing diff cup and housing that you don’t need to shim anything cause it takes the slack that the plastic has. Do you have any input about that?
I honestly couldn't say cuz I haven't ran HR cups 🤔. If they're made to the same spec as stock, I'd think they might still benefit from bigger planetary shims and possibly additional satellite ones too. The V4 trucks coming shimmed stock complicates the discussion. I've used and do recommend the HR diff cases 👍. I've found I need 3 Tekno TRK1222 bearing shims to get the fit I'm after on the crown gear bearing side. 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@erikaceves3402 I wouldn't know unless I had the HR cups 🤔. I've only tried the HR diff cases. The V4 shimmed diffs are a big improvement, but I still prefer using Mugen Seiki E0206 planetary gear shims. The smaller ARRMA ones don't fully support the rear face of the gear. Shimming is all by feel in the end either way. You don't want the diff too snug or too loose. It should spin smoothly, but without excess play at the outdrive cups.
I have grinding noise and won’t go when I hit throttle. I pulled motor thinking pinion gear loose but all was tight and didn’t see any gear damage. Do you think it could be the diffs? Or is it inside motor?
I never had any problems with my center diff after 6 months of Simi hard bashing and only broken one tooth on rear diff on my traxxas revo vxl how much have you spent on repairing your arrma diffs?
What about the smaller shims outside the bearings between the output drive and the bearing. It's arrma part # ar709057. Didn't see you put one in there. Is it not necessary? Mine came with one from the factory but I'm looking for a proper replacement. Thanks as always for all your info! We all appreciate it very much!
The V4 models came with those. I did this vid before ARRMA changed their shims. They added 2 planetary and 2 outdrive shims. I still prefer Mugen Seiki planetary shims though. They support the entire gear face. 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 you have a link to those? And you put them between the housing and the inside bearing, correct? I had hoped the ones I ordered from Arrma were the same size as the bearing but there might be a reason why it wasn't. Thanks for the reply!
@@wisebjames the shims I put between the bearing and diff case housing (crown gear side only) are Tekno #1222. Here's the link. www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-rc-13x16x.1mm-differential-shim-10-tkr1222/p231848
Rich I asked You a few days ago about your Diffs I never found this one but your the man! I’m wondering if you know anyone who has a lasernut that’s figured out the diffs?
i'm commenting early in the video..so sorry if you cover this...but I have a Mojave and my center diff just melted. What sort of upgrade do you recommend? At first sight, the gears look good. Could I just maybe buy a new housing? What weight oil is recommended for the center diff? I do not jump in the truck, I mostly just drive on the grass in my local park and sometimes asphalt parking lots.
Just noticed a different part number for the diff cases on v3 Keaton. All other part numbers are the same in diff area. This will probably change the shim settings for the 2 between the out drive bearing and case ya think? V3 diff case is AR310854. Older model is 310427.
NitroStar the tolerances can be slightly different between any diff housing including ones with the same part #. I've been using V3 diff cases since after they came out. The main difference is extra plastic ribs towards the diff ears for added strength 👌. I still use 2-3 Tekno #1222 shims on that side. They are tricky to place, can't always fit 3. I dab some grease on the shims to help stack them against the bearing for easier placement. Often use a hex driver to keep them flat as I slide the forward most aspect of the shim into position. It takes practice and sometimes the shims want to bend. They're delicate no doubt. 🍻😎👊👊
This truely is a awesome reference vid bro !!! Why search the house for my manual or get a tape measure when i have you on youtube 😎😎😎😆😆😆🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘. Needed shim size lol cheers brother !!!!😎😎😎
Thanks so much Adrian 🤗. Congrats on the new Kraton 😱!!!! I'm running 50/500/20k front to rear in mine. With stock electronics, 200-300k center is also nice. 😎💪👊👊
howdy! what sort of grease do you use? I see the little tube next to the shims in the video, but I can't make out what brand and make that is...thank you!
I use NanoProMT on my crown and input gears. Usually use Protek grease or Team Associated Green Slime on the O rings. www.amazon.com/Nano-NDT14MG-Performance-Marine-Grease/dp/B00T4BAFTC
Rc Fun thanks so much brother, hope the info proves helpful to others. She looks ready to start doing LAUNCH duty again soon...Lol!!! Happy bashing as always!!!✌✌😵😵😵😲😱😎👊👊
Howdee all Heya Super Dave, being new im loathe to stick my neck out into such a large room full of axes. if you guys try some racing engine assembly lube on your small parts. it will do 2 things, be there when the other is gone, and also will hold heavier small parts in place during assembly relieving the need for 2 to 3 different lubes grease etc . when i put a 3k crankshaft in a new block, its what i use and i have also used on on 2 and 4 stroke small engine parts. if you guys been there done that, sweet let me know now so i dont ruin this kraton i got incoming in the mail! fyi im not saying dont use required lubes, im just referring to holding stuff in place during assembly. Love the tec skills man, you got lots of em! God Bless!
Thanks Ryan 🤗. ARRMA did finally move to using a shim on each outdrive cup shaft. I've found it's no longer necessary to add 2 extra satellite shims internally with the new outdrive shims.
Rob Rotella thanks brother!!! I run toe out up front with neutral camber, toe in in back, with slight negative camber. I use stock caster spacers or equivalent. I always eyeball my settings. If I raced or had a speed run rig I'd probably be more exact about it. I do measure my droop settings with calipers though. 🍻🙋🙋😲😲😲😵😵😎💪👊👊
Rob Rotella you're very welcome bud!!! Shimming the diffs isn't too difficult. Takes some care and patience, but gets easy with practice. Definitely worth the results.👍👍😎💪👊👊
Rich, thanks so much for this tutorial! I am going through mine now. Why not put 2 shims behind the satelight gears on all of them? Too tight? Seems to me 2 of them will still have a looser mesh with this setup? Thx
I run 50/100/20K front to rear in my Typhon/Outcast and 50/200/20K in my Talion/Kraton with stock electronics. Have been running 500K center in my Kraton but it's got a big power setup, Hobbystar 1730kv 4092 with a Hexfly Hex6 ESC. 🍻🤘🤘😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 thanks for the vid I’m also taking Down this info 😂 on my kraton 6s is it good to run this diff set up also I got Castle 1520 2200kv and hobby wing max6 I wanna get at least a good diff weight on it my hobby shop needs to hire you they wanted me to put 1 mill center 10k front back smh 🤦♂️
Hey buddy, so is it only the rear diff where you add the 2 shims on the crown side? Also what do you mean by crown side? Also when you take out the diffs, what is that grease that is coating the whole outside? I dont have anything to re-grease it so trying to find out what I need to get so I can put the diffs back in once I get them filled with diff fluid. Do you think 20K, 200K, 20K in my 6S rig would be good for the diffs?
Wicked tips brother, thanks for taking the time to share and explain!!! I was searching for info about that grub screw recently and couldn't figure how much to tighten. What is the exact purpose of it, to bleed air out of the diff?
RD eazy thanks bro, really appreciate that man!!! I'm honestly not sure if it's for bleeding air, checking, draining or adding fluid??? I never use it for anything, but have had fluid leak there when the damn grub wouldn't seat right...Lol. If you find a useful purpose for them please let me know. Until then, ignorance is bliss...Lol. Happy bashing brother!!!👍👍😱😵😵😵😲😲😎👊👊
Haha I also haven't seen that grub screw on any of my other rigs from other brands and haven't had my outcast diffs apart yet so wasn't sure if it was tensioning anything inside the diff or not. I'll keep you posted if i discover anything!!!
Hey Rich. Love the videos sir. Tried to shim my V4 6s Kraton (front diff). Everything seemed nice and tight...or possibly too tight. It would spin up until I tighten it back together. Then it would lock up. I removed 1 shim at a time. First from the back of the planetary. Then from the cross pins. It wouldn’t rotate( after tightened) until I removed all of them. What am I doing wrong??
Thanks Brother 👊!!!! I haven't used the diff cups, but have used and really like the HR diff cases. They don't crack, strip, or warp like the stock ones can, and only add 4gms each. Great upgrade. 🍻
truboy555 I believe that is what the grub screw is for, but I never use it. I just fill up leaving enough room for the planentary gear that sits on top. Pretty much like the picture in the manual. If I get some overflow I just wipe it off and move on. 🤘🤘😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash Ya I always have diff oil coming out when refilling..was wondering if I was doing it wrong..trying to get air bubbles. Thanks for everything..aka king of bash..lol
truboy555 no problem brother 👊. We all try and "do it right" I guess 😂. So much is trial and error. Truth is there's lots of myths and questionable info that gets passed around 😬. I try not to be that guy and just stick with what works. I take the approach of constant learning 😎💪👊👊
Hahaha did you bust a nut in there bro! 🤣🤣 Cheers for the info/part numbers ect brother 👍 the front diff on my Kraton is clicking, at least I think it's the front. Clicks mostly when breaking and beginning to reverse. Should I let the problem develop or jump straight in and operate on her bro?
Sorry I missed this 👀. Sounds like you're missing or chipped teeth in your front crown and/or input gear. First check your 4 diff case cover screws are snug. If that doesn't work, I'd dive in and replace the damaged gears. Adding 2 Tekno TKR1222 shims to the crown gear side bearing can mitigate gear slippage 👍. Lots of synthetic marine grease helps them last and seals the diff case from water and dirt penetration. 😎💪👊👊
I am having the problem of my car not having the instant power and I am thinking it is the rear diff because it sounds horrable when I give it throttle, anyone know exactly what it could be?
I wish I would have bought a Kraton instead of my Slash. What a mistake. I'm thinking about it now. Is there good parts support in the U.S.? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Great video man!
Emergency! I have v3. I am just now rebuilding. I have placed only 1 planetary shim under each gear and dry fitted (except o-rings) along with using a Mugen gasket which is .37mm thick, and it is way too notchy. I have not installed an extra satellite shim yet. I then replaced the Mugen gasket with the Arrma gasket (.57mm) and tried. Has some backlash but is still notchy. I think this is ok. I know you ain't feeling it but what ya think? What gaskets are your favorite and how thick are they?
Hey Rich, awesome channel brother. My K6 is in need of some love soon and going through your channel for setup advice. I had a couple questions as this video is ~5 years old. 1. Are you still setting up your diffs the same way (No LSD) or is there anything you have found to work better in the time? 2. What’s your thoughts on aluminum diffs and aluminum gearboxes? 3. Are you running any aftermarket fans on motors/ESC’s? Stock Hobbywing Max6 just destroys the Hobbywing fans every bash.
Thanks Brother 🤗. I still shim the RTR non EXB diffs the same way. For LSD diffs, I honestly prefer the ARRMA open diff shim kit. The larger shims replace the LSD plates. I'm a big fan of Hot Racing and Basherqueen alloy bulkheads (cases). The ARRMA metal diff has worked excellent (center diff) in my Fire team. I don't typically run aftermarket fans in my basher's. My buddy Ian came up with a great mod for the Max6 and other HW fans. I'll try and link you. RCJuice does make a nice aluminum fan that I've had good luck with. 🍻ua-cam.com/video/Vyj-3-PuY7U/v-deo.html
@@richduperbash2966 Awesome, thanks for the reply! Look forward to future videos. Would you have any interest in a diff break down video like this for the EXB versions and or specifically the XL Kraton with tips and tricks? Always love learning from others out there and trying new things from other enthusiasts.
@@SnapperHeadUnlimited been wanting to do a EXB LSD diff vid for awhile and just might soon 👍. ARRMA RC has already done some solid technical ones. Very well explained. Not sure if you ever saw my Orange Darling Kraton XL build vid, but I went over my setup in detail. 🍻
Excellent video, your descriptions are spot on and very helpful from the Newby to the experienced. Do you find some variance in either the diffs or diff cases where you may not shim as much? I have found this to be the case a few times?
Track13News thanks so much bro!!! Yes I do sometimes find some variance in the diff cases mostly, not usually the diff cups. I've experimented quite a bit with the Arrma diffs and 2-3 crown gear side bearing shims seems to prevent slippage and broken teeth the best. That said, I generally don't do standing backflips...etc cuz nothing is impervious to gear damage...Lol.👍👍😲😲😲😵😵😱💪👊👊
Hi rich this is Josh I was thinking of doing an MT for 10 build with the wide body game changer chassis do you think that that is the toughest basher out right now? I have an outcast but it seems to break quite a bit even when landing on its wheels.
Hey Josh👊. The MT410 has a reputation for durability as you probably know. That said, the driveshafts, towers, and diff boxes have been a problem with mine. This goes back to the original basis of the truck itself, a lightweight race based borrowed platform. I've honestly had less issues with my upgraded Arrmas than my highly upgraded 410. Even more so with the M2C Goliath Series Arrma chassis's. Not trying to dissuade your purchase. Just giving you my opinion based on my experience and direct observations. 😎💪👊👊
Can you send me a list of upgrades to my outcast that you recomend... I watch alot of you videos but opinions change and just curious to what you think the monster outcast build is right now... fyi proline is coming out with an outcast bash body... the thick indestructable material.
lou demarco I use lots of NanoProMT marine grease from AutoZone. I line my diff cases with it also to keep dirt and water out. Much cheaper in a big tube than using "RC grease". 🤘🤘😰😰😰😎💪👊👊
Not essential perhaps right off the bat, but ultimately I prefer to have 2-3 total Tekno #1222 bearing shims on the front and rear crown gear side bearing and still like the larger diameter Mugen Seiki E0206 shims in place of the V4 planetary shims. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Hey will the 8x 16x 5mm sealed bearing fit the center diff cup??? Doing it now just double checking before I install it all back. Thank you for any help ✅🙏🏻🙏🏻
Rich Duperbash thanks for the reply 🤘🤘. Yes it’s an absolute monster !! I can’t get over how mean it sounds and drives . My hands were shaking from the adrenaline rush!!! ✅😹 I have ran 4 packs now on 6s now and I don’t think I’ll ever run the 4s anymore 😂. Now I’m trying to figure out the toe adjustments for the front wheels . They seem to be pointing outwards quite a bit. I know I need some toe out but I feel like it’s to much straight out the factory? I don’t see your rigs with a lot of toe out in your videos do you ever have to adjust your links or anything else to get them straighter out the box? Thank you for all your great videos,tips ,and advice !! 💯 🔥
@@jaguarsrcfamily101 that's friggin AWESOME Brother 😱!!!! Running 6s is highly addicting 👀😜😜. Just be safe and it's all good 👍. It's easy to run out of space when you really open it up and get moving. The toe out is normal and helps with high speed stability. I'd rather have it than not. It's hard to see on video, but I'm running it. 😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash I can’t believe it but I just ran into a truck head on driving down my road !!😳🤯🤬😭 I locked up the brakes and the rear came over the front and then boom right into the grill my truck went!! I can’t believe it but my truck is NOT broken at all! Unbelievable! 40mph atleast. Arrma tough is more then a slogan . All that happened was scuffed body and scuff on tbone front bumper. I’m shocked and counting my blessing . No more driving home streets !! parks only from here on out!! Thought you would get a kick out of hearing about it 😭 Thank you again for your help and support. Happy Bashing ✅💯🔥💨🤘🤘
@@jaguarsrcfamily101 OMG 😱😱😜!!!! That's friggin Nuts Brother 🤣. Glad she took it so well 👀. I've had a few similar Crazy moments myself and was left shaking my head in disbelief 🤯. Be safe out there and thanks for sharing!!!! 🍻😎💪👊👊
I just finish installing the 2 planetary shims. Tightened up the screws and the diff won't turn. What do you suggest I do? Loosen the screws a bit?? I'm not sure.
Adam Baker something is amiss no doubt. Are you sure the cross pins were fully seated at the center notch??? They should have mated like Lincoln logs. The gears should all sit in the cup just at or below the top of the cup when set correctly. It's possible the planetary gear fell off the pin as you were closing it up just before replacing the 4 screws. You'll have to open her up and investigate some. You should be able to tighten her down quite snug for a good cup/gasket/gear seal and still turn the outdrives.
I forgot to put that gasket on it. That's what made it right. Finished and the Kraton runs like a dream. Just bought RPM a arms for the Kraton. Gonna take the old ones off and put them on my Typhon. Bought Outkast shock towers and body posts. Got everything I need to turn it into an outcast except the body. Hopefully it get it all by the weekend so I can build it. Looking forward to it. Thanks for all the tips!
Adam Baker sounds awesome bro, glad she's running great!!! I really enjoyed building my son's Outcast. Funny thing is, my daughter wants her own Typhon now...Lol. I'll probably just get a roller cuz I have everything else. Happy bashing my friend!!!😋😲😲😲😵👌🙋🙋👊
Great video Rich. I have one question. I just crossed over to Arrma with a Typhon purchase. What brand of spur and pinion gears do you recommend, and what numbers are the must haves? I’m just goofing around no racing.
bluedeval03 thanks brother 👊!!! I run all stock 50T Arrma spurs and mostly Robinson Racing Extra Hard mod 1 pinions. Tekno also makes great hardened steel pinions. Gearing depends on your final voltage and wheel choices mostly. For 4s with buggy size wheels, you can run 20T safely. 6s you can do 16-18T. I'm now running 16T on my Truggified Typhon with larger 2.8 Trenchers or MX28s and maintain safe temps on 6s. I generally gear my rigs to about 150F motor temps for maximum efficiency. 16T is my most widely used pinion size for 6s running among all my Arrmas. Just remember that wide open running, lots of tire spin, and running on grass will push up your temps. In short, use a cheap temp gun to double check your temps until you know things are fine. Hope this helps my friend. 🤘🤘😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash awesome thanks!!! I am only running single 4s at least until Tire makers start getting it right. For tires I have purchased full set of Duratrax six pack, lock up, and bandito. Will be ordering some badlands 2.8 when I wear out what I have and once I swap out to HR hubs.
QuickDrawMcDraw 227 I don't think that part is coming back 😨. To my knowledge, Team Durango is no longer around 🙄. You want to use Mugen seiki E0206.🍻🤘🤘😎💪👊👊
QuickDrawMcDraw 227 that's all you'll need 👊. I usually fit 2-3 #1222 Tekno shims on the crown gear side bearing front and rear (between the diff case and outside bearing face). Just depends on the diff case tolerances. Really helps keep the crown and input gears together better. 😎💪👊👊
It does effectively tighten the tolerances and reduces breakages and leaks. Arrma has gone to adding shims behind the planetary gears with their V4 models as well as adding 2 shims to the diff outdrives. 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 Oh nice! Thanks for the reply... Ive beat my v3 kraton an awful low since december and looking to freshen everything up from stock. Recently after a hard landing something happened to the truck, I get a fast blinking red light and I have steering but no throttle, Almost like LVC is on... Maybe the landing messed up the lipo I havent tried another battery yet.. fingers crossed lmao
Do you have any idea if a Typhon 6s diff will fit into a Typhon 3s housing? I'm working on a rear driveshaft conversion to the 6s axles. Front would be a lot lot harder to convert so I am only focusing on the rear. The axles are the same length but the outer stubs are thicker so I will have to use the 6s hubs. The reason I'm doing all this is it is hard to find any aftermarket driveshafts that work and stay together. I've only found stock (the V2 driveshaft versions) and GPM (?) Which are very similar to what I currently have in it. The little ring that holds the pin in keeps falling off and then I lose my drive pins. Anyways, if I can just order a fully built diff to toss in, then I'll go that route. Otherwise I will have to get the external outdrives if they would even work.
I guess once you do his a few times it becomes easier each time? Lol. Just got my kraton. I’m gonna stay on a 4s setup for a while. I was told a 17t and 100k center diff oil was a good setup. Someone needs to open up an rc mechanic shop so I can just take my shit in and have someone else do it haha
Hmmm 🤔 I didn't realise there was much call for this kind of service. I absolutely love working on rc cars almost as much as I love breaking them 🤣 I wouldn't say that I'm professional enough yet to offer such service but maybe in the future bro 👍🙂
I bought one of these to keep stock are there any issues with front rear or center differential I may run into at some point from what I have read everyone seems to not say much about these differentials being problematic this will be used for dragracing and that's it
You're probably fine not shimming them internally for just drag racing 🤔. Might still want to add 2 Tekno #1222 bearing shims to the crown gear side bearings front and rear. These diffs generally hold much better shimmed internally for harder bashing. 😎💪👊👊
What dif weight or what do I need to do to improve on the steering? Right now my truck just pushes through turns.. This question is about the 4s Kraton I’m having this issue with.. but I’m wondering also since I just got the notorious what makes the Nero do “drift mode”? Is that locked rear or locked mid? When it’s switched into that mode thanks love your channel man you are crazy good at bashing these trucks!
I've stuck with stock 10k front and rear without issue in my Kraton 4s. You could try going up in the front to say 30k 🤔. I'd try swapping to Badlands 3.8 and possibly putting a stronger servo in. The stock Minokowa's tend to plow in the corners. I never drove a Nero with the diff brain. Locking the center diff doesn't help a 1/8 corner better. It just makes you drift more out of corners. 😎💪👊👊
I have the Typhon 6s v5 BLX , I really would like to know what mod gear to look for to drop the center gear down to the 46 or even a little lower on that center gear . What mode mod to look for .?
Hey Rich, thank you for your tips! i was going through my diffs on my vorza the other day and i noticed the two shims that you mentioned to put on the outdrive on the crown gear side. the same goes for the front. i thought that the other side of my shim had fallen off on my vorza till i went through my front diff and noticed the same two shims on the crown side too! very good tips. if not for your video, i would be looking everywhere if i had dropped my shims or replaced two more on the other side making it too tight a fit! btw,may i know what diff oil are you using for your front ,center and rear for bashing on loose dirt/grass?
Exceeded you're welcome brother, these tiny shims make a HUGE difference in performance and extending gear life. I've dropped, lost, and tweaked my share of them...Lol. I run 50/200/20k front to rear in my Kraton, 50/100/20k in my Outcasts and Typhon. 👍👍😵😵😵😱😲😲👌👊👊
Rich Duperbash in just a mere 12min video you summed up and pointed us in the right direction for the most important part in maintenance. Deeply appreciated Rich! 😜🤗😎👍🏻🏎
It's a good idea to put a fresh diff cup gasket on and replace the O rings as needed. Make sure not to overfill your cups. Consider trying TEKJO custom gaskets. Stephane Saucier sells them out of Canada. Can be purchased on eBay. It's all I use now 👍👍😎💪👊👊
Curious to know how many problems have you had with stock kraton diff gaskets? I have 5 sitting here at home on my new build kraton. And i wont put the diffs together without the Tekjo gaskets ive been waiting on for 2 weeks so far. (Theyre stuck in customs) getting eager to just put stock gaskets in to run it. Also, is there a method you use for gaskets? Do you soak them overnight in diff fluid before install?
I don't have a problem using the stock diff gaskets. Just can't keep reusing them. They either tear or start leaking. I replace all my stock gaskets with TEKJO either immediately during a build or the first diff service. They're much more resilient. I don't soak mine. Just put some diff fluid on the casing surface and/or the spur gear before tacking the gasket down. 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@johnnypwalker24 I probably get 15-20 bashes in between fluid changes. Normally, I can feel a change in performance as the bearings and fluids reach the maintenance threshold. I usually clean and oil (or replace) the bearings in addition to using Silicone Spray between services, after wash downs. 🍻
Tdogg916 RC Bashing thanks brother, was just going to message you...Lol. Want to go bashing, but need to get out earlier. This 108f crap is giving me headaches...Lol.👍👍😭😭😰🤒🤒😵😲💪👊👊
So, the cup stock comes with 1 shim already in my v4, do I put the bigger shim over that one? Or take the smaller stock shim out of the cup? I'm talking about under the sun gears.
I replace the stock V4 ones with the bigger Mugen planetary shims. I've found the newer diffs can be too tight if you add satellite shims like I do for the V2-V3 diffs. 😎💪👊👊
Yes indeed 👊. Remove the plastic cover so you have just the mount and motor to work with. Best method is to hear up the grub screw with a mini Butane torch or really hot soldering iron. Some have used a regular lighter even. Use a quality MIP or equivalent driver to loosen up the grub screw and then some gentle torque with a screwdriver to slip the pinion off. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Referred to this video at least a dozen times over the past few months, super helpful. Appreciate you taking the time to do these bench videos.
Thanks Daniel 🤗. Glad it's been useful Brother. 🍻
Hello rich,I've spoke to you a few times on a couple small things,just been sitting around going through some of your older videos and just wanna say thanks for the tips and advice that you've experienced, again thanks and appreciate what you give to the hobby!!!
Thanks so very much Thomas 🤗
Thanks for all the help Rich! I was finally able to find these shims in stock and installed them on my Kraton. I can't believe how much it quieted down the gears and how smooth it feels! Now I guess I need to install new pivot balls on the servo side of the steering turnbuckle, it just pops off after almost every landing and I even tried a new rod end, can't believe they don't come with pivot balls!
Robert Furlong no problem brother 🤘🤘!!! Glad to hear the gears are doing good 👊. You might've gotten a bum plastic steering link in the composite ball cup set🤔. You can try putting a twist on the opposing link ends, but I highly recommend trying RC Bashing the Kraton's simple mod. Find a rubber washer that just fits around the steering pivot balls from underneath. It stops the links from just popping off. He just did another vid about this problem. 🍻🤘🤘😰😰😰😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash I'll check that video out now! You never fail to reply and answer any questions, I definitely appreciate it brother! Hope you guys are safe with all those fire outbreaks, so sad to see.
9:41 I lol'd. I'm such a child haha. Very helpful video, thanks!
LMAO 😂. Thanks Brother 🍻
This is going to help a lot of people. Good work!
HYEonDEATHROW thanks brother, hope it proves helpful to others. 👍👍😵😵😵😲😱😎👌👊👊
Hi mate i know this is a old video but as a retired mechanic I put my shim's under the bearing and the proper way to do it and less problems later putting it together. I always watch your videos mate 👍😁😁.
Thanks Armando 🤗. I know some guys do that too. Just got in the habit of using the outside because it makes it easy to add or subtract shims based on feel when setting the diff into the housing. Hope all is well Brother 🍻
@@richduperbash2966 thanks for the reply mate love your videos 👍😁
Typhon was ripping there at the end. Looked and sounded smooth as silk. Excellent job
Anthony Arnold thanks so much bro definitely running tight again!!!👍👍🙋😵😵😵😲😲😱✌👊👊
New diff parts came in 👊😀shimming my Diffs today.
Thank you for the help Rich
This is invaluable information. Thanks a ton for grouping it in one video! This makes it easier for memory deficient guys like me lol
Lol exactly!!!
That's a plus when u give info but a total break down what more can people want lol awesome job rich.
Those o rings drive me nuts. These are some good tips, bro. Thanks!
Adam Baker hey no problem brother, much appreciated!!! Glad I'm not the only one forgetting the bearings...Lol. I've actually put the whole diff together only to realize....ohhhh sh....t!!!! Now that is seriously frustrating...Lol. Especially when you've rebuilt so many and it STILL happens... We're only human right??? Happy bashing!!!✌✌😵😵😵😲😲😎🙋👊👊
Great tip on cutting threads for the grub screw.
Nice one D !! I don't know how many times I've rebuilt that Centre diff bra. I kept snapping the stainless insert out it kept leaking. Put in the HR diff cup shimmed on the planetary gear only and I haven't had one drop leak out of that baby 👶 love it. Nothing like a fully serviced rig 👍🏻👍🏻
72nivo thanks brother, that's awesome to hear!!! I've only snapped one of those inserts loose surprisingly, but have heard lots of people say that's been a problem for them. I too will switch to the HR cup if needed. Think there are bad batches of plastic products on occasion. Had a string of A-ARMS fail on me even from regular bashing with no MEGA airs and went RPM. Just glad we have upgrade options. You're right bro, nothing like starting fresh again with a fully serviced, running like new again rig!!! I sat on fixing the Typhon WAY too long. Crunchy bearings, crusty axels, bone dry CVDs...Lol. Happy bashing bro!!!👍👍😵😵😵😎😲😲👌👊👊
Glad to hear im not the only one who has forgot the bearings 🤣😂😂😂🖒🖒😎. Cheers for the part numbers . When i re-oil i will try your method of shimming 😎😎. Awesome to see some drift action at the end 👏👏🤘🤘💪💪💪💪😎
And that lateflip at the start was epic just EPIC 👊👊👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏😎
Rc Anonymous thanks so much brother!!! Shimming the diffs makes a huge difference no doubt, saves you $$$ and time in the end. Gears can still fail and break, but happens WAY less. It was fun to put some test time in the neighborhood...Lol. Good way to make sure things are working right before hitting the dirt again. Happy bashing my friend.👍👍😵😵😵😲😱😎💪👊👊
Pretty much exactly as I build my Arrma diffs as well, smooth as butter, hopefully you get many runs out of it now!
corey kurtz thanks bro, still shocked I'd somehow missed shimming this rear diff before??? I've done so much swapping parts between my different Arrmas, think I had a brain fade or plopped in a spare diff I had laying around who knows...Lol. Glad to hear you shim yours basically the same way, it makes such a difference in durability. Happy bashing brother!!! 👍😲😲😲😵😵😎🙋👊👊
Thanks for yet another awesome video. Rebuilding mine as I watch
7:45. Thank youu! I was wondering where that went ahahaha .
Nice, I use that losi slime (repackaged tire slime) on the 3s 4s shock orings as well. It cut the leaks in half.
Nice educational video. Thanks for sharing this tips with us. The Typhon is look and driving good one again!!!
Peter Weber thanks Peter much appreciated!!! You just reminded me to finish your ESC problem vid with your Xmaxx. I was enjoying it and your jumps earlier and got interrupted by the kids of course. I really like how you explain things as you're bashing, keep up the awesome work my friend!!! 🙋🙋😵😵😵😲😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash Thanks Rich, means a lot!
I love how late that flip was on that jump at the beginning of the video.
Thanks so much 🤗. I sure miss this spot. It was flattened October 2019 for pending development. 😎💪👊👊
Great info Rich. This will help a lot out. If you didn't do this vid not a lot would know. Nice work👍👍👍👍
Kenny mph Melanko thanks brother, people still ask about the diffs and I've been fixing/rebuilding my share lately. I've gone to keeping a maintenance log cuz I plain forget which rig had what done to it as time goes by...Lol. 👍👍😲😲😲😵😱😎✌👊👊
8:00 - Part numbers
great video thanks for the tips ..and nothing like 6s just got a kraton v4 a week ago and its just insane on 6s.
Nice tips,, the typhon looked like a california low rider with the tires..lol sounded smooth no more crunchy
RCbashing the KRATON thanks brother... LMAO, total low rider with those little GLocs, the nose almost scrapes ground with braking, but nearly impossible to flip and crazy fun for street drifting with hardly any ballooning. Going to try to take better care of the Typhon BEAST. She's been beat down HARD lately...Lol.👍👍😵😵😵😲😲💪👊👊
New subscriber. Ive seen a million of your videos and hey you are prolly the reason i got a Kraton instead of a Nitro Savage. But just realized i wasnt subbed so how can i not be subbed when I own a kraton and you turned me onto it. Not really understanding the whole shim thing but bout to try and work it out since i think its about tine to do some wirk on the ole diffs.
I need to learn more about shimming diffs. I don’t understand it. I just received the EXB and want to know if I should do this before driving it. Thanks for the videos man.
The EXB has completely different diffs from the standard 6s rigs. Shimming is ultimately done by feel. Don't want things either too tight or too loose. The only shims I've added to my EXB are Tekno #1222. I recommend using them on the crown gear side bearing front and rear. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash awesome thanks man. I’ll grab some of those. Did you change the diff fluid weights?
@@derwoodsdiy7710 I finally did after a few runs. You don't need to go too heavy with the center and front LSD diffs. I'm running 50/200/20k front to rear now. 🍻
Rich Duperbash thanks for all the help! (My EXB came without the battery extension slide thing...weird. Lol) I’m going 21T pinion. Hope that’s not too tall! HW 1650 combo.
@@derwoodsdiy7710 message Horizon customer support. They should send you an entire 6s battery tray 👍
9:41-9:47 , you got me going there. 😂
Hey buddy, hope your having a great weekend. So saw this video is 4 years old now. Is everything in the video what you would still recommend doing and also the shims you would recommend using still?
Also what would you recommend for diff oil weight on my 6S Kraton as a starting point for me and my learning process for what I will eventually settle on over time?
Awesome video brother great advice shimed all my diffs from your first video makes a HUGE difference great stuff man happy bashing bro👍🏻👍🏻🙈🙉🙊👊✌
12R1 thanks so much brother, forgot to shout out the man Thomas P, without his videos I would've struggled with proper ARRMA diff bulletproofing myself. Cheers to him again!!! Happy bashing my friend!!! Good luck with your Slash speed project, too. Mine needs a motor since borrowing the Castle 2200 for the Typhon. Sticking with 1/8 scale can no doubt...Lol.😱😱😵😵😵😲😎💪👊
Got the Mugen shins today. Working on the diffs on my Kraton.
Very helpfull and usefull Tips 👍
Thank you very much Rich
bikerunner1909 no problem bro, you're very welcome and happy bashing!!!👍👍😵😵😵😲😱👊👊
Question-??What’s the point of the grub screw in the cup????? Thanks for any help. 🙏🏻🤘🏼
I forgot the reason I had heard for the grub screw🤔. Guess you could add/remove silicone perhaps. I never use mine, but have had leakage from one's that weren't properly seated before. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Thanks for the reply , I was thinking the same thing about adding fluid . Only thing that makes sense to me. 🧐😂✅🤘thanks again!!
Hey rich great video! What diff oil do u run in your you diffs..like what weights
I’ve heard that if you run the hot racing diff cup and housing that you don’t need to shim anything cause it takes the slack that the plastic has.
Do you have any input about that?
I honestly couldn't say cuz I haven't ran HR cups 🤔. If they're made to the same spec as stock, I'd think they might still benefit from bigger planetary shims and possibly additional satellite ones too. The V4 trucks coming shimmed stock complicates the discussion. I've used and do recommend the HR diff cases 👍. I've found I need 3 Tekno TRK1222 bearing shims to get the fit I'm after on the crown gear bearing side. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash
So on your v4 you still had to use shims even with using the hot racing diff cups
@@erikaceves3402 I wouldn't know unless I had the HR cups 🤔. I've only tried the HR diff cases. The V4 shimmed diffs are a big improvement, but I still prefer using Mugen Seiki E0206 planetary gear shims. The smaller ARRMA ones don't fully support the rear face of the gear. Shimming is all by feel in the end either way. You don't want the diff too snug or too loose. It should spin smoothly, but without excess play at the outdrive cups.
I have grinding noise and won’t go when I hit throttle. I pulled motor thinking pinion gear loose but all was tight and didn’t see any gear damage. Do you think it could be the diffs? Or is it inside motor?
Thanks for the great info man got all the info I need from this video!
I never had any problems with my center diff after 6 months of Simi hard bashing and only broken one tooth on rear diff on my traxxas revo vxl how much have you spent on repairing your arrma diffs?
What about the smaller shims outside the bearings between the output drive and the bearing. It's arrma part # ar709057. Didn't see you put one in there. Is it not necessary? Mine came with one from the factory but I'm looking for a proper replacement. Thanks as always for all your info! We all appreciate it very much!
The V4 models came with those. I did this vid before ARRMA changed their shims. They added 2 planetary and 2 outdrive shims. I still prefer Mugen Seiki planetary shims though. They support the entire gear face. 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 you have a link to those? And you put them between the housing and the inside bearing, correct? I had hoped the ones I ordered from Arrma were the same size as the bearing but there might be a reason why it wasn't. Thanks for the reply!
@@wisebjames the shims I put between the bearing and diff case housing (crown gear side only) are Tekno #1222. Here's the link. www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-rc-13x16x.1mm-differential-shim-10-tkr1222/p231848
Rich I asked
You a few days ago about your
Diffs I never found this one but your the man! I’m wondering if you know anyone who has a lasernut that’s figured out the diffs?
Thanks Robert 👍. I'll ask around here to see who has a Lazurnut.
i'm commenting early in the video..so sorry if you cover this...but I have a Mojave and my center diff just melted. What sort of upgrade do you recommend? At first sight, the gears look good. Could I just maybe buy a new housing? What weight oil is recommended for the center diff? I do not jump in the truck, I mostly just drive on the grass in my local park and sometimes asphalt parking lots.
Just noticed a different part number for the diff cases on v3 Keaton. All other part numbers are the same in diff area. This will probably change the shim settings for the 2 between the out drive bearing and case ya think?
V3 diff case is AR310854.
Older model is 310427.
NitroStar the tolerances can be slightly different between any diff housing including ones with the same part #. I've been using V3 diff cases since after they came out. The main difference is extra plastic ribs towards the diff ears for added strength 👌. I still use 2-3 Tekno #1222 shims on that side. They are tricky to place, can't always fit 3. I dab some grease on the shims to help stack them against the bearing for easier placement. Often use a hex driver to keep them flat as I slide the forward most aspect of the shim into position. It takes practice and sometimes the shims want to bend. They're delicate no doubt. 🍻😎👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 More great info bud! I know what your saying on getting g the shims in my 8th scale buggy! Thanks😁👊
great tips have fun as always.
Jim Farley thanks my friend, you as well.🙋🙋😵😵😵😲😎💪👊
Hi I know this is probably a stupid question but do you have any recommendations on a redcat kaiju diff shims
This truely is a awesome reference vid bro !!! Why search the house for my manual or get a tape measure when i have you on youtube 😎😎😎😆😆😆🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘. Needed shim size lol cheers brother !!!!😎😎😎
Rc Anonymous that's too funny brother...Lol!!! You go Matt👍👍😎💪💪💪💪👊👊
Just got my kraton. I want to rebuild all my diffs. What type of gear oil for the front center and rear. Love the channel btw.
Thanks so much Adrian 🤗. Congrats on the new Kraton 😱!!!! I'm running 50/500/20k front to rear in mine. With stock electronics, 200-300k center is also nice. 😎💪👊👊
Amazing vids and great tips dude in the middle of doing this right now and basically following step buy step thanks 🏎
@@richduperbash2966 great video bro good info hay will 100k front and back be fine?
What oil weight do you run on your diffs for bashing?
I run 50/200/20k front to rear. 😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash
Very similar to what I set mine at.
30k 200k 30k
How do you like that set up?
thnx for sharing part numbers, great vid
yenyen33089 thanks my friend 👊!!! Happy bashing. 🍻😎💪👊👊
howdy! what sort of grease do you use? I see the little tube next to the shims in the video, but I can't make out what brand and make that is...thank you!
I use NanoProMT on my crown and input gears. Usually use Protek grease or Team Associated Green Slime on the O rings. www.amazon.com/Nano-NDT14MG-Performance-Marine-Grease/dp/B00T4BAFTC
Great video bro well explained looked like the test run went well good to see it back I know some serious bashing is going down soon lol 👍👍👊
Rc Fun thanks so much brother, hope the info proves helpful to others. She looks ready to start doing LAUNCH duty again soon...Lol!!! Happy bashing as always!!!✌✌😵😵😵😲😱😎👊👊
Howdee all Heya Super Dave, being new im loathe to stick my neck out into such a large room full of axes. if you guys try some racing engine assembly lube on your small parts. it will do 2 things, be there when the other is gone, and also will hold heavier small parts in place during assembly relieving the need for 2 to 3 different lubes grease etc . when i put a 3k crankshaft in a new block, its what i use and i have also used on on 2 and 4 stroke small engine parts. if you guys been there done that, sweet let me know now so i dont ruin this kraton i got incoming in the mail! fyi im not saying dont use required lubes, im just referring to holding stuff in place during assembly.
Love the tec skills man, you got lots of em!
God Bless!
Rich why don’t them shim them tighter from the factory? Really love these bench vids just as much as the bash vids!!
Thanks Ryan 🤗. ARRMA did finally move to using a shim on each outdrive cup shaft. I've found it's no longer necessary to add 2 extra satellite shims internally with the new outdrive shims.
Great info! What do you recommend for camber, caster, and toe on the typhon?
Rob Rotella thanks brother!!! I run toe out up front with neutral camber, toe in in back, with slight negative camber. I use stock caster spacers or equivalent. I always eyeball my settings. If I raced or had a speed run rig I'd probably be more exact about it. I do measure my droop settings with calipers though. 🍻🙋🙋😲😲😲😵😵😎💪👊👊
Thanks so much for the info Rich! I’ve been a bit intimidated about trying to shim or modify the diffs until I came across your videos on the subject.
Rob Rotella you're very welcome bud!!! Shimming the diffs isn't too difficult. Takes some care and patience, but gets easy with practice. Definitely worth the results.👍👍😎💪👊👊
Rich, thanks so much for this tutorial! I am going through mine now. Why not put 2 shims behind the satelight gears on all of them? Too tight? Seems to me 2 of them will still have a looser mesh with this setup? Thx
You're most welcome Brother 👊!!! Any more shims makes the diff too tight and notchy. 😎💪👊👊
I figured.. I just like to know. :)
How full do you fill the diffs?
Great info, thanks! What weight oil do you recommend for the diffs?
I run 50/100/20K front to rear in my Typhon/Outcast and 50/200/20K in my Talion/Kraton with stock electronics. Have been running 500K center in my Kraton but it's got a big power setup, Hobbystar 1730kv 4092 with a Hexfly Hex6 ESC. 🍻🤘🤘😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 thanks for the vid I’m also taking Down this info 😂 on my kraton 6s is it good to run this diff set up also I got Castle 1520 2200kv and hobby wing max6 I wanna get at least a good diff weight on it my hobby shop needs to hire you they wanted me to put 1 mill center 10k front back smh 🤦♂️
Hey buddy, so is it only the rear diff where you add the 2 shims on the crown side? Also what do you mean by crown side? Also when you take out the diffs, what is that grease that is coating the whole outside? I dont have anything to re-grease it so trying to find out what I need to get so I can put the diffs back in once I get them filled with diff fluid.
Do you think 20K, 200K, 20K in my 6S rig would be good for the diffs?
Wicked tips brother, thanks for taking the time to share and explain!!! I was searching for info about that grub screw recently and couldn't figure how much to tighten. What is the exact purpose of it, to bleed air out of the diff?
RD eazy thanks bro, really appreciate that man!!! I'm honestly not sure if it's for bleeding air, checking, draining or adding fluid??? I never use it for anything, but have had fluid leak there when the damn grub wouldn't seat right...Lol. If you find a useful purpose for them please let me know. Until then, ignorance is bliss...Lol. Happy bashing brother!!!👍👍😱😵😵😵😲😲😎👊👊
Haha I also haven't seen that grub screw on any of my other rigs from other brands and haven't had my outcast diffs apart yet so wasn't sure if it was tensioning anything inside the diff or not. I'll keep you posted if i discover anything!!!
Hey Rich. Love the videos sir. Tried to shim my V4 6s Kraton (front diff). Everything seemed nice and tight...or possibly too tight. It would spin up until I tighten it back together. Then it would lock up. I removed 1 shim at a time. First from the back of the planetary. Then from the cross pins. It wouldn’t rotate( after tightened) until I removed all of them. What am I doing wrong??
V4 comes pre shimmed so if you are adding it's probably why they are locking up.
James M yep. I ended up figuring that out. Thanks.
@@user-eh9uy3cr2p sorry Brother. Just saw your question. Unfortunately, I don't receive every notification 👀😎💪👊👊
How do you keep your hands so clean
Hey rich, what diff oil weight would you recommend for 3s Senton? Sweet video as always bro thanks for everything you share 👍
Great vid
Bookmarked
What are your thoughts on the HR aluminum dip cups?
Thanks Brother 👊!!!! I haven't used the diff cups, but have used and really like the HR diff cases. They don't crack, strip, or warp like the stock ones can, and only add 4gms each. Great upgrade. 🍻
Hey Rich..what is that bottom screw in the differential case for..is it for to bleed out the diff oil when putting back together..or something else..
truboy555 I believe that is what the grub screw is for, but I never use it. I just fill up leaving enough room for the planentary gear that sits on top. Pretty much like the picture in the manual. If I get some overflow I just wipe it off and move on. 🤘🤘😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash Ya I always have diff oil coming out when refilling..was wondering if I was doing it wrong..trying to get air bubbles. Thanks for everything..aka king of bash..lol
truboy555 no problem brother 👊. We all try and "do it right" I guess 😂. So much is trial and error. Truth is there's lots of myths and questionable info that gets passed around 😬. I try not to be that guy and just stick with what works. I take the approach of constant learning 😎💪👊👊
Tighter tolerances less flex ?? Or wrong line of thinking fees back appreciated
I'm still a little confused about the shims - Do you need 3 types or 2? I got some 3,5 x 12 x 0,15mm for the diffs..
Hahaha did you bust a nut in there bro! 🤣🤣
Cheers for the info/part numbers ect brother 👍 the front diff on my Kraton is clicking, at least I think it's the front. Clicks mostly when breaking and beginning to reverse.
Should I let the problem develop or jump straight in and operate on her bro?
Sorry I missed this 👀. Sounds like you're missing or chipped teeth in your front crown and/or input gear. First check your 4 diff case cover screws are snug. If that doesn't work, I'd dive in and replace the damaged gears. Adding 2 Tekno TKR1222 shims to the crown gear side bearing can mitigate gear slippage 👍. Lots of synthetic marine grease helps them last and seals the diff case from water and dirt penetration. 😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 hay no worries dude. on closer inspection figure it's the center diff, I'll fix it when i feel inspired haha. cheers brother 👍😀
When you redo your diffs and bearings / new motor and esc. Do you go right to bashing? Or do you take it easy first run to work things in?
I go straight to bashing 🤗
I am having the problem of my car not having the instant power and I am thinking it is the rear diff because it sounds horrable when I give it throttle, anyone know exactly what it could be?
It's probably a stripped rear input and/or crown gear 🤔. Make sure the rear outdrive cup didn't just come loose on the input shaft first. 😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash at first one of the gears in the diff snapped in half but I fixed it and it is still doing it so I will check, thanks for the help 🙏
I wish I would have bought a Kraton instead of my Slash. What a mistake. I'm thinking about it now. Is there good parts support in the U.S.? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Great video man!
Emergency! I have v3. I am just now rebuilding. I have placed only 1 planetary shim under each gear and dry fitted (except o-rings) along with using a Mugen gasket which is .37mm thick, and it is way too notchy. I have not installed an extra satellite shim yet.
I then replaced the Mugen gasket with the Arrma gasket (.57mm) and tried. Has some backlash but is still notchy. I think this is ok. I know you ain't feeling it but what ya think? What gaskets are your favorite and how thick are they?
Hey Rich, awesome channel brother. My K6 is in need of some love soon and going through your channel for setup advice. I had a couple questions as this video is ~5 years old.
1. Are you still setting up your diffs the same way (No LSD) or is there anything you have found to work better in the time?
2. What’s your thoughts on aluminum diffs and aluminum gearboxes?
3. Are you running any aftermarket fans on motors/ESC’s? Stock Hobbywing Max6 just destroys the Hobbywing fans every bash.
Thanks Brother 🤗. I still shim the RTR non EXB diffs the same way. For LSD diffs, I honestly prefer the ARRMA open diff shim kit. The larger shims replace the LSD plates. I'm a big fan of Hot Racing and Basherqueen alloy bulkheads (cases). The ARRMA metal diff has worked excellent (center diff) in my Fire team. I don't typically run aftermarket fans in my basher's. My buddy Ian came up with a great mod for the Max6 and other HW fans. I'll try and link you. RCJuice does make a nice aluminum fan that I've had good luck with. 🍻ua-cam.com/video/Vyj-3-PuY7U/v-deo.html
@@richduperbash2966 Awesome, thanks for the reply! Look forward to future videos. Would you have any interest in a diff break down video like this for the EXB versions and or specifically the XL Kraton with tips and tricks? Always love learning from others out there and trying new things from other enthusiasts.
@@SnapperHeadUnlimited been wanting to do a EXB LSD diff vid for awhile and just might soon 👍. ARRMA RC has already done some solid technical ones. Very well explained. Not sure if you ever saw my Orange Darling Kraton XL build vid, but I went over my setup in detail. 🍻
Excellent video, your descriptions are spot on and very helpful from the Newby to the experienced. Do you find some variance in either the diffs or diff cases where you may not shim as much? I have found this to be the case a few times?
Track13News thanks so much bro!!! Yes I do sometimes find some variance in the diff cases mostly, not usually the diff cups. I've experimented quite a bit with the Arrma diffs and 2-3 crown gear side bearing shims seems to prevent slippage and broken teeth the best. That said, I generally don't do standing backflips...etc cuz nothing is impervious to gear damage...Lol.👍👍😲😲😲😵😵😱💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash you must have watched a video in mine, LOL
would it still be needed for the new Outcast?
Hi rich this is Josh I was thinking of doing an MT for 10 build with the wide body game changer chassis do you think that that is the toughest basher out right now? I have an outcast but it seems to break quite a bit even when landing on its wheels.
Hey Josh👊. The MT410 has a reputation for durability as you probably know. That said, the driveshafts, towers, and diff boxes have been a problem with mine. This goes back to the original basis of the truck itself, a lightweight race based borrowed platform. I've honestly had less issues with my upgraded Arrmas than my highly upgraded 410. Even more so with the M2C Goliath Series Arrma chassis's. Not trying to dissuade your purchase. Just giving you my opinion based on my experience and direct observations. 😎💪👊👊
Can you send me a list of upgrades to my outcast that you recomend... I watch alot of you videos but opinions change and just curious to what you think the monster outcast build is right now... fyi proline is coming out with an outcast bash body... the thick indestructable material.
Will aluminium after market dif casing stip the need for shimming
What kind of grease do you use inside the diff case for the gear and pinion .
lou demarco I use lots of NanoProMT marine grease from AutoZone. I line my diff cases with it also to keep dirt and water out. Much cheaper in a big tube than using "RC grease". 🤘🤘😰😰😰😎💪👊👊
Rich is this necessary to do to a v4 kraton brand new?I see they already have shims. But does it need more? Thanks for the vids
Not essential perhaps right off the bat, but ultimately I prefer to have 2-3 total Tekno #1222 bearing shims on the front and rear crown gear side bearing and still like the larger diameter Mugen Seiki E0206 shims in place of the V4 planetary shims. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Hey will the 8x 16x 5mm sealed bearing fit the center diff cup??? Doing it now just double checking before I install it all back. Thank you for any help ✅🙏🏻🙏🏻
Yes indeed 👊. Sorry for the late reply. Got off work late today 😱. Hope you got it dialed in. 🍻👍👍😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash thanks for the reply 🤘🤘. Yes it’s an absolute monster !! I can’t get over how mean it sounds and drives . My hands were shaking from the adrenaline rush!!! ✅😹 I have ran 4 packs now on 6s now and I don’t think I’ll ever run the 4s anymore 😂. Now I’m trying to figure out the toe adjustments for the front wheels . They seem to be pointing outwards quite a bit. I know I need some toe out but I feel like it’s to much straight out the factory? I don’t see your rigs with a lot of toe out in your videos do you ever have to adjust your links or anything else to get them straighter out the box? Thank you for all your great videos,tips ,and advice !! 💯 🔥
@@jaguarsrcfamily101 that's friggin AWESOME Brother 😱!!!! Running 6s is highly addicting 👀😜😜. Just be safe and it's all good 👍. It's easy to run out of space when you really open it up and get moving. The toe out is normal and helps with high speed stability. I'd rather have it than not. It's hard to see on video, but I'm running it. 😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash I can’t believe it but I just ran into a truck head on driving down my road !!😳🤯🤬😭 I locked up the brakes and the rear came over the front and then boom right into the grill my truck went!! I can’t believe it but my truck is NOT broken at all! Unbelievable! 40mph atleast. Arrma tough is more then a slogan . All that happened was scuffed body and scuff on tbone front bumper. I’m shocked and counting my blessing . No more driving home streets !! parks only from here on out!! Thought you would get a kick out of hearing about it 😭 Thank you again for your help and support. Happy Bashing ✅💯🔥💨🤘🤘
@@jaguarsrcfamily101 OMG 😱😱😜!!!! That's friggin Nuts Brother 🤣. Glad she took it so well 👀. I've had a few similar Crazy moments myself and was left shaking my head in disbelief 🤯. Be safe out there and thanks for sharing!!!! 🍻😎💪👊👊
Everything you said was right lol I’m listening now .
I just finish installing the 2 planetary shims. Tightened up the screws and the diff won't turn. What do you suggest I do? Loosen the screws a bit?? I'm not sure.
Adam Baker something is amiss no doubt. Are you sure the cross pins were fully seated at the center notch??? They should have mated like Lincoln logs. The gears should all sit in the cup just at or below the top of the cup when set correctly. It's possible the planetary gear fell off the pin as you were closing it up just before replacing the 4 screws. You'll have to open her up and investigate some. You should be able to tighten her down quite snug for a good cup/gasket/gear seal and still turn the outdrives.
Rich Duperbash thanks. It all seemed fine. I'll keep looking.
I forgot to put that gasket on it. That's what made it right. Finished and the Kraton runs like a dream. Just bought RPM a arms for the Kraton. Gonna take the old ones off and put them on my Typhon. Bought Outkast shock towers and body posts. Got everything I need to turn it into an outcast except the body. Hopefully it get it all by the weekend so I can build it. Looking forward to it. Thanks for all the tips!
Adam Baker sounds awesome bro, glad she's running great!!! I really enjoyed building my son's Outcast. Funny thing is, my daughter wants her own Typhon now...Lol. I'll probably just get a roller cuz I have everything else. Happy bashing my friend!!!😋😲😲😲😵👌🙋🙋👊
Nice and great video Rich appreciate 🤓
Antonio Pagan diaz thanks so much brother 😂!!! Happy bashing.🍻🤘🤘😎💪👊👊
Great video Rich. I have one question. I just crossed over to Arrma with a Typhon purchase. What brand of spur and pinion gears do you recommend, and what numbers are the must haves? I’m just goofing around no racing.
bluedeval03 thanks brother 👊!!! I run all stock 50T Arrma spurs and mostly Robinson Racing Extra Hard mod 1 pinions. Tekno also makes great hardened steel pinions. Gearing depends on your final voltage and wheel choices mostly. For 4s with buggy size wheels, you can run 20T safely. 6s you can do 16-18T. I'm now running 16T on my Truggified Typhon with larger 2.8 Trenchers or MX28s and maintain safe temps on 6s. I generally gear my rigs to about 150F motor temps for maximum efficiency. 16T is my most widely used pinion size for 6s running among all my Arrmas. Just remember that wide open running, lots of tire spin, and running on grass will push up your temps. In short, use a cheap temp gun to double check your temps until you know things are fine. Hope this helps my friend. 🤘🤘😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash awesome thanks!!! I am only running single 4s at least until Tire makers start getting it right. For tires I have purchased full set of Duratrax six pack, lock up, and bandito. Will be ordering some badlands 2.8 when I wear out what I have and once I swap out to HR hubs.
Rich if this part is out of stock the TD310475 what is another shim that will work thanks..
QuickDrawMcDraw 227 I don't think that part is coming back 😨. To my knowledge, Team Durango is no longer around 🙄. You want to use Mugen seiki E0206.🍻🤘🤘😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash ok so to do the internal and external I will need TKR1222 -E0206 that’s all or am I missing one thanks
QuickDrawMcDraw 227 that's all you'll need 👊. I usually fit 2-3 #1222 Tekno shims on the crown gear side bearing front and rear (between the diff case and outside bearing face). Just depends on the diff case tolerances. Really helps keep the crown and input gears together better. 😎💪👊👊
hi， how thick oil will u recommend for 6s outcast😁😁😁
What exactly does shimming the diffs do? Tighter tolerances?
It does effectively tighten the tolerances and reduces breakages and leaks. Arrma has gone to adding shims behind the planetary gears with their V4 models as well as adding 2 shims to the diff outdrives. 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 Oh nice! Thanks for the reply... Ive beat my v3 kraton an awful low since december and looking to freshen everything up from stock. Recently after a hard landing something happened to the truck, I get a fast blinking red light and I have steering but no throttle, Almost like LVC is on... Maybe the landing messed up the lipo I havent tried another battery yet.. fingers crossed lmao
Do you have any idea if a Typhon 6s diff will fit into a Typhon 3s housing? I'm working on a rear driveshaft conversion to the 6s axles. Front would be a lot lot harder to convert so I am only focusing on the rear. The axles are the same length but the outer stubs are thicker so I will have to use the 6s hubs. The reason I'm doing all this is it is hard to find any aftermarket driveshafts that work and stay together. I've only found stock (the V2 driveshaft versions) and GPM (?) Which are very similar to what I currently have in it. The little ring that holds the pin in keeps falling off and then I lose my drive pins. Anyways, if I can just order a fully built diff to toss in, then I'll go that route. Otherwise I will have to get the external outdrives if they would even work.
I guess once you do his a few times it becomes easier each time? Lol. Just got my kraton. I’m gonna stay on a 4s setup for a while. I was told a 17t and 100k center diff oil was a good setup. Someone needs to open up an rc mechanic shop so I can just take my shit in and have someone else do it haha
Hmmm 🤔 I didn't realise there was much call for this kind of service. I absolutely love working on rc cars almost as much as I love breaking them 🤣
I wouldn't say that I'm professional enough yet to offer such service but maybe in the future bro 👍🙂
Was his gear oil specs mentioned in this video?
Hub & Bearing 50k 500k 20k
I bought one of these to keep stock are there any issues with front rear or center differential I may run into at some point from what I have read everyone seems to not say much about these differentials being problematic this will be used for dragracing and that's it
You're probably fine not shimming them internally for just drag racing 🤔. Might still want to add 2 Tekno #1222 bearing shims to the crown gear side bearings front and rear. These diffs generally hold much better shimmed internally for harder bashing. 😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash thank you very much for your response I appreciate it. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
What dif weight or what do I need to do to improve on the steering? Right now my truck just pushes through turns.. This question is about the 4s Kraton I’m having this issue with.. but I’m wondering also since I just got the notorious what makes the Nero do “drift mode”? Is that locked rear or locked mid? When it’s switched into that mode thanks love your channel man you are crazy good at bashing these trucks!
I've stuck with stock 10k front and rear without issue in my Kraton 4s. You could try going up in the front to say 30k 🤔. I'd try swapping to Badlands 3.8 and possibly putting a stronger servo in. The stock Minokowa's tend to plow in the corners. I never drove a Nero with the diff brain. Locking the center diff doesn't help a 1/8 corner better. It just makes you drift more out of corners. 😎💪👊👊
For the 2 extra shims on the satellite gears which shims do I use?
You can use extra stock ones or use the small Mugen Seiki E0206 ones. 😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash cool thanks
I have the Typhon 6s v5 BLX , I really would like to know what mod gear to look for to drop the center gear down to the 46 or even a little lower on that center gear . What mode mod to look for .?
What weight lube did you use in the diff? I missed that part
I usually run 100-200k center. Always run 50-60k front and 20-30k rear. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Thanks 👊
@@richduperbash2966 you use that weight on your typhon?
Hey Rich, thank you for your tips!
i was going through my diffs on my vorza the other day and i noticed the two shims that you mentioned to put on the outdrive on the crown gear side. the same goes for the front. i thought that the other side of my shim had fallen off on my vorza till i went through my front diff and noticed the same two shims on the crown side too! very good tips. if not for your video, i would be looking everywhere if i had dropped my shims or replaced two more on the other side making it too tight a fit!
btw,may i know what diff oil are you using for your front ,center and rear for bashing on loose dirt/grass?
Exceeded you're welcome brother, these tiny shims make a HUGE difference in performance and extending gear life. I've dropped, lost, and tweaked my share of them...Lol. I run 50/200/20k front to rear in my Kraton, 50/100/20k in my Outcasts and Typhon. 👍👍😵😵😵😱😲😲👌👊👊
Rich Duperbash in just a mere 12min video you summed up and pointed us in the right direction for the most important part in maintenance. Deeply appreciated Rich! 😜🤗😎👍🏻🏎
Exceeded thanks again brother, hope it proves helpful for others as well my friend. Happy bashing!!!👌✌💪👊👊
How do you keep the diff from leaking? I changed mine to 500 and it sprays on every run, it's tight and i did not notice any seals when i opened it.
It's a good idea to put a fresh diff cup gasket on and replace the O rings as needed. Make sure not to overfill your cups. Consider trying TEKJO custom gaskets. Stephane Saucier sells them out of Canada. Can be purchased on eBay. It's all I use now 👍👍😎💪👊👊
what diff oils are you using for the truggyfied typhon? F C R
I run 50/200/20k front to rear. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Curious to know how many problems have you had with stock kraton diff gaskets? I have 5 sitting here at home on my new build kraton. And i wont put the diffs together without the Tekjo gaskets ive been waiting on for 2 weeks so far. (Theyre stuck in customs) getting eager to just put stock gaskets in to run it. Also, is there a method you use for gaskets? Do you soak them overnight in diff fluid before install?
I don't have a problem using the stock diff gaskets. Just can't keep reusing them. They either tear or start leaking. I replace all my stock gaskets with TEKJO either immediately during a build or the first diff service. They're much more resilient. I don't soak mine. Just put some diff fluid on the casing surface and/or the spur gear before tacking the gasket down. 🍻😎💪👊👊
May i ask how often do you service your diffs? After 5-6 bashes? When you hear something sounding wrong?
@@johnnypwalker24 I probably get 15-20 bashes in between fluid changes. Normally, I can feel a change in performance as the bearings and fluids reach the maintenance threshold. I usually clean and oil (or replace) the bearings in addition to using Silicone Spray between services, after wash downs. 🍻
what do you use the graphite dry lube for?
I sometimes use it on CVD's, but normally use Silicone Spray. 🍻
What oil wt did you run for the center front and rear diff?
Sorry Brother 👊. Missing tons of messages. I usually run 50/100/20k front to rear in my Typhon. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Great info bro I thank I'm gonna try that I'm my rig👍🏽👍🏽💯💯😎😎
Tdogg916 RC Bashing thanks brother, was just going to message you...Lol. Want to go bashing, but need to get out earlier. This 108f crap is giving me headaches...Lol.👍👍😭😭😰🤒🤒😵😲💪👊👊
So, the cup stock comes with 1 shim already in my v4, do I put the bigger shim over that one? Or take the smaller stock shim out of the cup? I'm talking about under the sun gears.
I replace the stock V4 ones with the bigger Mugen planetary shims. I've found the newer diffs can be too tight if you add satellite shims like I do for the V2-V3 diffs. 😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 so maybe just leave the small gears alone and use the big mugen shim under each sun gear?
@@richduperbash2966 on the exploded view it shoes those shims tho
@@mattpotts3623 yes. Just leave the stock satellite shims. Don't add any there with the V4-5 diffs. I tried but it felt too tight. 👍
Hey rich, I know im late but do you have any tips for removing the pinion gear for the first time on the typhon 3s? I can't seem to wiggle it off
Yes indeed 👊. Remove the plastic cover so you have just the mount and motor to work with. Best method is to hear up the grub screw with a mini Butane torch or really hot soldering iron. Some have used a regular lighter even. Use a quality MIP or equivalent driver to loosen up the grub screw and then some gentle torque with a screwdriver to slip the pinion off. 🍻😎💪👊👊