Just the regular belts? I still have power steering, and I got that belt at Oreilly's or Autozone, I can't remember. It's just a v-belt, nothing fancy. They should have it, since there were a few cars with a VG30E. Same with the alternator belt. Only difference is my Z is turbo from the factory, so it comes with a ribbed belt (NA are V-belt). I don't have AC, so that belt, along with the tensioner pulley and bracket are in the trash. :-P Timing belt (and water pump and tensioner pulley) is from a Gates kit I just got from Amazon.
did you have two vacuum hoses going to the throttle body pipe? because i do and thats getting in my way. I have a 1985 turbo that im doing the exact same thing with but the little things are getting in the way. do you have any updated pictures or anything? also would like to know how you did your intake. Very helpful video though!
You're talking about the bigger guys, right? Those are for the idle controls (Aux Valve and IACV), but I got rid of those a long time ago. Even with the stock charge pipe, I capped those off and used block off plates on the plenum to simplify the engine bay. If you're planning to keep those, I would take one of the 60 deg IC bends, drill a couple of holes in it, get some tubing the same size as the hoses, cut it up, and then find someone to weld vacuum ports onto the 60 deg bend. Would be a lot cheaper than finding one and buying it pre-made, and you can also choose where you want the ports. Shouldn't cost more than $40 to get that done, and if you can TIG aluminum, it'll be significantly cheaper. As for the turbo intake, I just used the stock S-pipe - > coupler -> MAF -> filter. It worked perfectly fine, except the location sucked because every time my fan turned on, it made my car want to die (didn't actually die though) because it leaned out my AFR. My set up is a bit different now because I'm running a different turbo, a BOV, and I'm running the MAF blow-through. I don't have an recent pictures of my set up, since it's changed around a bit, but I do have a photo from when I had a gutted Maxima plenum installed. You can kind of see how I had the stock S-pipe set up for the turbo intake: instagram.com/p/BWldMrBgNZk/?taken-by=alex_z31t
probably a stupid question but is the wheel on the turbo supposed to be open like that, or do you attach more piping and put a air filter like you do without a intercooler?
No, for a Z31 they're generally not supposed to be open like that because they're draw-through MAF cars. I ended up using the stock S-pipe - > coupler -> MAF ->KN Filter. However, you can keep it like how it is in the video, but with a filter of course, and run your MAF as a blow-though. A lot of people with bigger turbos in the stock locations generally tend to run blow-through, since it's significantly easier when it comes to the MAF and intake piping.
I had the MAF sensor coming off the stock S-pipe. The set was stock S-pipe - > coupler -> MAF ->KN Filter. It worked, but it wasn't the best, since the filter was right next to the fan. What ended up happening was when the fan turned on and I was just chillin' at a light, my AFRs would go super lean and make the car almost want to die. It never died, but it was just annoying. I have the HY installed now, so I'm running the MAF blow-through and have a filter directly on the fan. Has been working perfectly fine for a while now. :-)
I live in Modesto, and it's pretty miserable in the summer. My Z didn't come with AC when I bought it, so I got rid of pretty much everything that had to do with it, including all the vacuum lines. Problem with that was that my defroster was always on, even if the watercock was ziptied shut. It got so bad, especially if I boosted, that I bypassed the heater and took out the fuses to the blower motor, so I wouldn't get hot air coming into the cabin when it was 100+ deg outside. If I had a Z with working AC, I wouldn't even think about taking it out. It's really not hard to route your IC piping with the AC compressor in mind.
I drilled a couple holes on the underside of the bumper support (where the front fascia screws go in on the bottom). They're fairly close to the edge and don't interfere with the fascia screws. The bumper metal is surprisingly fairly thick, so I don't have to worry about the bolts/nuts ripping through or anything like that. The brackets I have on there are bent in kind of an "Z" shape to make everything work.
Sorry, for whatever reason I JUST saw this comment. Anyway, the reason you want it to be angled is because you want to eliminate as much gap between the radiator and intercooler as possible. From what I understand, if you leave a gap, it creates a low pressure zone in front of the radiator, which reduces the efficiency of your cooling system because there is already a low pressure zone after the radiator. Air doesn't really flow as well from low pressure to low pressure. A good example of this my friend's Z32 TT. He has a front mount intercooler, which leaves a very sizable gap between the radiator and intercooler. Around town, his Z runs fine, but when he went to a race track, he could barely get a lap in because his Z started to overheat. :-/
Good video! Does your electric fan keep your car cool enough? I had another guy tell me that it an electric fan wouldn't work well enough on my 300 so I have not changed mine out.
Yup! I'm using a Taurus fan from the 3.8L early 90's Taurus/Sable. I have it set up to only run on low, and that works well enough to keep my car cool in 100+ deg CA Central Valley heat. However, I am also running a Champion 3-row aluminum radiator. If you do decide to run an e-fan, I highly suggest upgrading the alternator to at least a Maxima alternator. The stock one is only 70A, so it might not be able to handle the extra load (depending on the fan you decide to use). The Taurus fan I use kind of draws a lot of amperage, so having the 90A Maxima alternator is a must. If the Taurus fan draws too much amperage for your taste, other people also run dual Maxima fans, dual Malibu fans, or even dual Contour fans since they all draw less amperage than the Taurus fan.
At the time, I was still using the stock draw-through set up, although I had to modify it a little bit. Just wasn't installed in the video. It's different now though. I'm running my MAF in a blow-through setup, since I'm running the Holset HY with a filter directly on the compressor housing.
thanks so much for this video. very informative and will be using this in the future!!
where'd you get the belt for when you did the power steering, A/C etc... delete?
Just the regular belts? I still have power steering, and I got that belt at Oreilly's or Autozone, I can't remember. It's just a v-belt, nothing fancy. They should have it, since there were a few cars with a VG30E. Same with the alternator belt. Only difference is my Z is turbo from the factory, so it comes with a ribbed belt (NA are V-belt). I don't have AC, so that belt, along with the tensioner pulley and bracket are in the trash. :-P Timing belt (and water pump and tensioner pulley) is from a Gates kit I just got from Amazon.
did you have two vacuum hoses going to the throttle body pipe? because i do and thats getting in my way. I have a 1985 turbo that im doing the exact same thing with but the little things are getting in the way. do you have any updated pictures or anything? also would like to know how you did your intake. Very helpful video though!
You're talking about the bigger guys, right? Those are for the idle controls (Aux Valve and IACV), but I got rid of those a long time ago. Even with the stock charge pipe, I capped those off and used block off plates on the plenum to simplify the engine bay. If you're planning to keep those, I would take one of the 60 deg IC bends, drill a couple of holes in it, get some tubing the same size as the hoses, cut it up, and then find someone to weld vacuum ports onto the 60 deg bend. Would be a lot cheaper than finding one and buying it pre-made, and you can also choose where you want the ports. Shouldn't cost more than $40 to get that done, and if you can TIG aluminum, it'll be significantly cheaper.
As for the turbo intake, I just used the stock S-pipe - > coupler -> MAF -> filter. It worked perfectly fine, except the location sucked because every time my fan turned on, it made my car want to die (didn't actually die though) because it leaned out my AFR.
My set up is a bit different now because I'm running a different turbo, a BOV, and I'm running the MAF blow-through.
I don't have an recent pictures of my set up, since it's changed around a bit, but I do have a photo from when I had a gutted Maxima plenum installed. You can kind of see how I had the stock S-pipe set up for the turbo intake: instagram.com/p/BWldMrBgNZk/?taken-by=alex_z31t
probably a stupid question but is the wheel on the turbo supposed to be open like that, or do you attach more piping and put a air filter like you do without a intercooler?
No, for a Z31 they're generally not supposed to be open like that because they're draw-through MAF cars. I ended up using the stock S-pipe - > coupler -> MAF ->KN Filter. However, you can keep it like how it is in the video, but with a filter of course, and run your MAF as a blow-though. A lot of people with bigger turbos in the stock locations generally tend to run blow-through, since it's significantly easier when it comes to the MAF and intake piping.
Where are you gonna put the Maf sensor
I had the MAF sensor coming off the stock S-pipe. The set was stock S-pipe - > coupler -> MAF ->KN Filter. It worked, but it wasn't the best, since the filter was right next to the fan. What ended up happening was when the fan turned on and I was just chillin' at a light, my AFRs would go super lean and make the car almost want to die. It never died, but it was just annoying.
I have the HY installed now, so I'm running the MAF blow-through and have a filter directly on the fan. Has been working perfectly fine for a while now. :-)
how is it with no AC in CA? been heavily debating about deleting my AC, just wanted your opinion
I live in Modesto, and it's pretty miserable in the summer. My Z didn't come with AC when I bought it, so I got rid of pretty much everything that had to do with it, including all the vacuum lines. Problem with that was that my defroster was always on, even if the watercock was ziptied shut. It got so bad, especially if I boosted, that I bypassed the heater and took out the fuses to the blower motor, so I wouldn't get hot air coming into the cabin when it was 100+ deg outside.
If I had a Z with working AC, I wouldn't even think about taking it out. It's really not hard to route your IC piping with the AC compressor in mind.
nice video very helpful, where did u mount the intercooler i see you have the 2 bolts on top but where did you connect it to on the bumper support?
I drilled a couple holes on the underside of the bumper support (where the front fascia screws go in on the bottom). They're fairly close to the edge and don't interfere with the fascia screws. The bumper metal is surprisingly fairly thick, so I don't have to worry about the bolts/nuts ripping through or anything like that. The brackets I have on there are bent in kind of an "Z" shape to make everything work.
Alex Barron im trying to understand. Why must the intercooler be angled?
Sorry, for whatever reason I JUST saw this comment.
Anyway, the reason you want it to be angled is because you want to eliminate as much gap between the radiator and intercooler as possible. From what I understand, if you leave a gap, it creates a low pressure zone in front of the radiator, which reduces the efficiency of your cooling system because there is already a low pressure zone after the radiator. Air doesn't really flow as well from low pressure to low pressure. A good example of this my friend's Z32 TT. He has a front mount intercooler, which leaves a very sizable gap between the radiator and intercooler. Around town, his Z runs fine, but when he went to a race track, he could barely get a lap in because his Z started to overheat. :-/
Good video! Does your electric fan keep your car cool enough? I had another guy tell me that it an electric fan wouldn't work well enough on my 300 so I have not changed mine out.
Yup! I'm using a Taurus fan from the 3.8L early 90's Taurus/Sable. I have it set up to only run on low, and that works well enough to keep my car cool in 100+ deg CA Central Valley heat. However, I am also running a Champion 3-row aluminum radiator.
If you do decide to run an e-fan, I highly suggest upgrading the alternator to at least a Maxima alternator. The stock one is only 70A, so it might not be able to handle the extra load (depending on the fan you decide to use). The Taurus fan I use kind of draws a lot of amperage, so having the 90A Maxima alternator is a must. If the Taurus fan draws too much amperage for your taste, other people also run dual Maxima fans, dual Malibu fans, or even dual Contour fans since they all draw less amperage than the Taurus fan.
Alex Barron awesome thanks! That will free up a ton of space then. I'm in Oklahoma so yeah, hot as hell here too.
No MAF sensor?
There's a MAF sensor. I'm still using the stock draw-through set up, although I had to modify it a little bit.
Did you need a tune after this?
@@MxSoulfly one gas station by me has cam 2 at the pump. I am on long island. How cool is that
Where is your MAF.?
At the time, I was still using the stock draw-through set up, although I had to modify it a little bit. Just wasn't installed in the video. It's different now though. I'm running my MAF in a blow-through setup, since I'm running the Holset HY with a filter directly on the compressor housing.
Alex Barron can you make a video of that? Thanx
Yea sure. I'll make one eventually. Probably the next time I decide to work on the Z, which should be fairly soon, haha.
Alex Barron ok cool because I have my intercooler set up differently and I want to see how others have the maf connected...... thanx
get a 20v drill hahaha btw voltage is potential energy what u need to look at is mah (battery capacity)