Hey Rob. I wrote this assistant for anyone who does woodworking and wants to build a sled. It's free for everyone to use and pass along if they want to. It really is helpful for many people because it takes the guesswork out. Let me know if you try it. xylie6.github.io/5cutmethod-1/
Simple is often best, and this crosscut sled illustrates the principle perfectly. Employing a rabbet to align the front fence precisely with the exactly square MDF base panel and square to the blade is the simplest, most straightforward way I've seen to get that done. Unadorned by auxiliary devices, the sled is exactly what it should be to a serious woodworker. Well done, Rob.
Every time I watch one of your videos (and I download and save them all), I am pissed off that you only have 200K subscribers -- every woodworker or wannabe woodworker should subscribe and watch. I have been woodworking for over forty years and I learn something from you every time.
@@louisdegonzague1161 At 7:28. Great trick - I also had never thought about that and having a significantly smaller table saw myself have often experienced this roadblock. It's such an obvious solution! Great tip!
Gotta say Rob, it’s cool just watching your workflow and how you approach it. I picked up a lot of little things that went unmentioned, which I’m sure will improve my wood working. Great stuff as always 👌
Thank you for the video! I love it and am in need of a sled. I'm afraid I don't have enough balls to mount the back fence without making sure it isn't accurate first, though. I love your skill and videos. Thank you again.
As always - great project, extemporaneous/concise/on-point presentation, and great editing and text to provide a really finished video that allows the viewer to learn how to complete the project. Rob should be a case study at universities on how to instruct.
Rob. I’ve learned so much from your videos. I have to say that if there were no tutorials on this subject, this is how I would build a sled. I would assume that if my base was square and my rip fence was aligned to the blade, it should work. But that hasn’t been the case for me in the past. I missed something in the process of building it. Why does it work for you?
Rob you know, you have people out of the States with great admiration, herem where I live in Portugal have some dificulty in undesstandind your mesure in inches because sometimes is dificult to ear some numbers. Many thank´s for your good work and disponibility.
@@Bill_CBR I was hoping to see that too, given that he built it before testing. But, then again, when is good enough not good enough? It was at least as accurate as his square, which is much better than mine on the first measurement, LOL.
The fence made parallel to the blade at the start. MDF squared using fence, rails attached by squaring mdf to fence while glue sets, the rabbet run using the fence, the rabbet tightly set against the mdf base… everything must be aligned. The 5 cut method would only confirm that the fence alignment at the start was done correctly. Amazing.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking actually, this one really will. I can’t afford a nice SawStop yet, only have a Milwaukee job site table saw, but I’m sure this could be adapted to work on it also (even if dimensions need changed)
I built a large sled and it works great. However you quickly find the vast majority of your crosscuts are not very wide. So I built a small part sled that is only 10 inches wide. It is probably 1/5th the weight of my large sled making it easier to move and store.
This is a great method that saves a lot of time. You mention a person named Del or Dale who was the best glue spreader, and I was wondering if there is more you can share? I worked as a cemetery groundskeeper, and I know that saying the names and telling the stories is a great way to honor a person. I have loads of respect for what you are doing for a cause, and your high level of skill. All the best.
Nice sled. Thanks for the video. One suggestion if you want to knock off some weight cut about a 30 degree angle from the front fence to the edge. The MDF in that corner is dead space and doesn’t seem to add any stability to the sled.
I have left over Brazilian cherry (Jatoba) flooring from 2009, I will be using that for my runners. It is very straight and insanely hard, like way harder than Hickory even.
Great video! The rabbit is a clever idea to get the fence square with the blade. Will have to try it. I have to find a way to make my low end king table saw into a sawstop to get the fence extremely accurate. Thanks for the video great advice as always.
When I’m trying to dialin for a precision fit, I get it close, then measure with dial calipers the table slot, compare to wood being machined. Using a mag base opposite of fence, position the calipers to contact the mag base and the fence. Loosen and reposition fence and move the necessary amount to achieve desired fit.
I love Osage orange for many many reasons. My favorite wood. A bow made from Osage when Europeans first arrived in America was worth a horse AND a blanket OR a comely young squaw. (First hand account from a journal)
Rob, thanks for sharing that build. There are however two things I don't like about Your design. The first is that the blade is coming "out" on "Your" side of the fence (where a thumb might be) without being covered which can be a real security issue, when You concentrate on the cut and not on the back side of the fence. The other is the high reinforcement of the front fence. Both issues can easily be addressed by fixing the fence a few inches away from the front edge of the base plate so that it is not completelysplit by the blade even if it cuts through the fence. A block of wood can then be glued onto the back side of the fence in order to a) additionally re-enforce the stability of fence and base plate and b) cover the blade on the back side of the fence. John Heisz is following this approach ( as well as others) with his mini cross cut sledge. Maybe You'd like to adapt something like that on Your next iteration. Regards Frank
I made a sled a few years ago using purple heart for the runners. I found I he summer it works grew but in the winter the sled wobbles around a bit and doesnt cut true. I am swapping them out for cold rolled steel tomorrow.
Just curious as to why you don’t cut a small relief rabbet on the reference fence to allow for sawdust. When making repetitive cuts, any sawdust left can throw the workpiece out of square.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I was waiting to see how you adjust also. So you do not bother with the 5 cut method to check for accuracy. If its square on a machinist square then you are good to go. I like this approach. It is logical, real world. Thank you for another great Video.
To save time and frustration of making runners, the miter slots should be precisely measured with a dial caliper at several points (front, middle, and end) and then select the thinnest measurement minus 1 thousand to be the maximum runner width. The only additional measurement is to check runners for straightness by laying runner on edge of tablesaw top and check for flatness.
Using solid wood for the fence, are you concerned about seasonal movement causing it to go out of square to the blade, or out of 90 degrees to the table? Most every other youtuber I've seen build a sled laminates plywood for the fence
A good video, as always, but I cannot see putting all the work you do into getting two runners to fit your table tracks exactly. Cut the runners a little loose. Shim each one away from the blade with thin strips of playing card, business card or paper. Once the runners are secured to the base with the outer edges of the runners tight against the outer edges of the table tracks, how important is the inner runner edge? I've actually given up on wood runners. For my last two sleds I used lengths of 3/4-inch T-slot track upside down, shimmed as I described. Setting the tracks takes ten or fifteen minutes.
Hi Rob, thanks for everything you put out there. It's been a great resource. Quick question. The video doesn't actually show you raising the blade and then cutting through the fence of the cross-cut sled: do you raise the blade all the way up (I assume that is safe/something you would want with a cross-cut sled)? Thanks again!
Rob, first of all, thanks for a great video. My existing sled is showing its age and I am considering building another, so this was perfect timing for me. What are your thoughts on laminating two (or three) sheets of plywood together to make the front fence? This should be very stable and allow you to make it as tall as possible at the blade entry point. I am curious to hear your thoughts on this. Thank you in anticipation.
Thats a good way to make a strong flat face. I would glue one at a time and clamp them to a reference surface such as my table saw table face to ensure they dont warp during glue up
I did this exact thing on mine - 3 strips of 1/2" baltic birch laminated/glued together. It was pretty flat already, but I was able to lightly plane/drum sand the faces to perfection without blowing through the outer veneers.
Rob - I enjoyed watching you "fiddling" around, trying to get the runners to the correct size. Most sled-making videos I've watch, it's presto, and they fit perfectly. But where did you get that monster plane. WOW!
Rob, what would you think about cutting the runners undersized by a 32nd of an inch and use shims to force them tightly against the inner sides of the slots, nearest the saw blade. Then attach the top as shown. The shims would eliminate any potential slop and it would save you a lot of back and forth time trying to get that exact fit.
Can you explain why 3/4" stock is needed? I would have expected 1/2" or even 1/4" plywood to remain square. It it the MDF durability, or have I missed something?
3/4” stock is the middle ground between being strong enough for the application (1” would be better) and not robbing you of too much blade depth (1/2” would be preferred). However, since both of those play into the effectiveness of the sled, 3/4” is the best choice. MDF is much more uniform and flat than plywood, as well more stable.
I don’t glue the back fence just one screw for pivot and check for squareness clamp the other and put another screw . Check Mr Ang or nick Perry how he did his
Hi, i have got two issues with the design: the first one is a safety: you should had a block square wood to the back of the fence were the saw blad existing - it will keep your fingers and belly away from the saw. The second one is accuracy: I used the five cuts method, explained very well by William N.G..
I Think you mean William Ng. His five-cut method is excellent for EXTREME accuracy, but having used it since 2011 (when he posted it on his website) , I have found that that level of accuracy was never needed outside of metal-work. and, Unfortunately, i have found that the first knock the wooden sled gets you will lose that accuracy. Its a fun exercise, but not needed in woodworking. Furthermore, as Rob shows in his videos, he always fine tunes with the plane,, which is far more accurate and fine work than any table saw with any sled,
Rob Abbott- I have read his comment and he agree with the " safety block" and he talked about awareness which is very important not just working with power tools. His mentors way of thinking that makes him removing safety features is a an accident to be happened!!!! I see Rob first as a teacher and that is not a good example because he have got a lot of students and followers!!!!! He is using his sawstop because of its safety features ( there goes the awareness a way with the mentor way of thinking), not all of the people can afford buying Sawstop because it's very expensive and you can't buy it where i live ( Israel, i haven't seen it sold in Europe). Buying good saws with ( i am including a job site saw) the same technical or even better performance but without the safety features is more available but you will have to be aware for all😜 risks - safety first!!. "Stumpy Nubbs" and "Steven Ramsey" have got very good content on safety with power tools and ( table saws are included).
Well fantastic. Not sure what precisely your point is as it would be foolish to use non-tool specific techniques on his saw while explaining how to build a crosscut sled. The building steps are ubiquitious across all saw types. And to get a SawStop, looks like DesertCart delivers to Israel. L'Chaim!
The miter slots on my Sawstop are not uniform in width. Measured at the front, at the blade, at the rear: Left 0.7545; 0.7535; 0.7430. Right 0.7535; 0.7535; 0.7475. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
That tall plywood end piece (near saw operator's abdomen) on your jig doesn't look as graceful as your dovetails or nicely crafted as your other jigs. Also it would obstruct my stopblock/clamp-on efforts too much. Love your work & videos though! Greetings from the U.P. Rob :-)
I like the sled, but I worry about you leaning right over the blade, and how close your fingers get. Others posting sled building videos seem more aware of the dangers. Why not use a push stick at least?
I'm a big fan and I've learned a lot watching your videos, but some of your table saw operations make me cringe. I'm religious about using push sticks for any rip less than about 3", and that final cut on edge with the runners against the fence certainly could have been done before the piece was attached. Maybe it's just because I've had a couple of close calls in my 45 years of woodworking that I always look for a safer way to do things.
Right there with you, safety is important! Bear in mind that he's running a SawStop, and that determine a different methodology. The tool changes how you can work. You wouldn't use a European planer the same way as a US version because the guards are different...the SAFETY mechanisms are different, so you use a different methodology.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
The base does not need to be square or square to the table or saw blade. The rear fence must be 90 to the blade only, this is done by the 5 cut method, I like to have it within .005 in 20". I make mine 27" long and the width of the cast iron table. Most cabinet doors will fit if need be. I use 3/4 Baltic birch for the base, 2 pieced of 3/4 Baltic birch glued together clamped together on a know flat surface for the front fence and rear fence. front fence is glued and screwed and rear is screwed to the base after the 5 cut method is used to square it ( 6 screws average).
@@BobAbbott 5 cut method, you adjust the rear fence till it is square to the blade. This it done with one screw at each end of the rear fence, first setup would be to use a square and rough square it to the blade then set the screws at both ends then do the 5 cut method. Then once you reach that point you add screws to hold the rear fence in place. My sled is square with in .002 to .005 in 20". ua-cam.com/video/UbG-n--LFgQ/v-deo.html
@@kb6dxn I know the 5 cut method. And the 3 cut. But that’s not what I’m talking about. You stated the base does not need to be square to the blade. That’s not true.
@@BobAbbott The base does not need to be square or square to the saw blade only the rear fence needs to be square to the blade of the saw. That was the point I was making. Way to much time was spent on the base.
@@kb6dxn so one runner is higher than the other runner. Enough to tilt the base two degrees. Now when I crosscut a piece of lumber it’s no longer square, it’s got a 2 degree bevel on it. Yes the rear fence should be square to the blade. But so should the base be square to the blade.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking , Most Americans have no idea of the availability and capabilities of a sliding table saw. Also they are available in sizes almost a small as a Uni-Saw.
Not gonna lie I didn’t enjoy this video that much. The way you used the fence to “make it square”, is not the best way I’ve seen this done. Yea, I realize the skinning a cat reference but this has assumptions that it’s square. Also cutting the rabbit instead of using 2 screws, using 5 cut and setting the fence seems not to be as accurate. I would appreciate a final result that shows the accuracy of this with a 5 cut method. Also if it’s off with the rabbet you can’t correct anything.
The only thing that matters is the final result when checked with a square (which he did). The 5 cut method process is merely the means to get there. Yes, I'd be hesitant to use Rob's method as there's no adjustability (as he said, "if it's off, you need to start over".), but as long as it's square, that's all that matters. I've made a bunch of crosscut sleds over the years using the 5 cut method. The last one I had dialed in to within less than a .001. Perfect, I thought... until I checked the cut with a square and it was off. I spent a lot of time trying to get it dialed in ... I eventually abandoned the 5 cut process and went straight to the square and finally got it. That still has me scratching my head.
@@philshock3805 you don’t use 5 cut method to get it square. That’s just to check if it’s square. James and Kings Fine Woodworking here on UA-cam made an amazing video and table saw sled. Go check it out!
@@bigscreenbird8198 I am looking for that sled. Is it the one in a video from October 17, 2017?? Do you watch and trust this channel. I have never heard of this one before your post.
I think, if you are demonstrating a build method we can all use, then don’t take handles of chisels to thin your runners…find a method anyone can employ.
If you liked this video check out our video on making a table saw sacrificial fence attachment jig:: ua-cam.com/video/hlRzj_iSELU/v-deo.html
Hey Rob. I wrote this assistant for anyone who does woodworking and wants to build a sled. It's free for everyone to use and pass along if they want to. It really is helpful for many people because it takes the guesswork out. Let me know if you try it.
xylie6.github.io/5cutmethod-1/
Simple is often best, and this crosscut sled illustrates the principle perfectly. Employing a rabbet to align the front fence precisely with the exactly square MDF base panel and square to the blade is the simplest, most straightforward way I've seen to get that done. Unadorned by auxiliary devices, the sled is exactly what it should be to a serious woodworker. Well done, Rob.
Every time I watch one of your videos (and I download and save them all), I am pissed off that you only have 200K subscribers -- every woodworker or wannabe woodworker should subscribe and watch. I have been woodworking for over forty years and I learn something from you every time.
Yeah!!!!!!
Worth it just for the reverse miter gauge trick! Never thought of that :)
I missed that one, where is it?
@@louisdegonzague1161 At 7:28. Great trick - I also had never thought about that and having a significantly smaller table saw myself have often experienced this roadblock. It's such an obvious solution! Great tip!
An encyclopedia of knowledge coupled with over 30 years of experience at work here. A true master of the craft.
"Probably start over. Anyway, good luck." :) I'm always astonished at your precision. Phenomenal video!
Exactly why I won't do it his way, LOL. I'll test mine for accuracy before I lock it down. His skills are better than I think mine are.
Gotta say Rob, it’s cool just watching your workflow and how you approach it. I picked up a lot of little things that went unmentioned, which I’m sure will improve my wood working.
Great stuff as always 👌
Wow, just got my new Tablesaw last night. Great timing
Nice trick with the chisel and the double clamps! Thanks
Thank you for posting how to make this sled.
Well done Rob. Nice and easy.
Very impressive. A different take on how many of the UA-camrs out there build theirs. 👍👍
The rabbit is the best Idea I have ever seen ........ great build!!
Thanks for watching and commenting
I really like this simple approach to a sled. I'll have to try the rabbet technique on the fences. Thanks~!!
Good stuff Rob. Always enjoy your videos.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Thank you Rob. I’ve had difficulty squaring the front fence. Now I have a solution 🌞
Just make sure your table saw fence is dead square to the blade / miter slot
great video, when I need to know how to do something right i can always trust on you. thanks man
Thank YOU for watching and commenting
Thanks
Thank you for the video! I love it and am in need of a sled. I'm afraid I don't have enough balls to mount the back fence without making sure it isn't accurate first, though. I love your skill and videos. Thank you again.
I have to agree with you that my cross cut sled is my best jig in my wood shop.
As always - great project, extemporaneous/concise/on-point presentation, and great editing and text to provide a really finished video that allows the viewer to learn how to complete the project. Rob should be a case study at universities on how to instruct.
Wow thanks for the shout out. Just glad you find use in our videos
I am a retired teacher and I agree that Rob is spot on with his teaching. 👍🏻
You leaning over that spinning blade had my stomach in knots holy cow be safe
Good job
Awsome ! Thanks !
Rob. I’ve learned so much from your videos. I have to say that if there were no tutorials on this subject, this is how I would build a sled. I would assume that if my base was square and my rip fence was aligned to the blade, it should work. But that hasn’t been the case for me in the past. I missed something in the process of building it. Why does it work for you?
thanks
great video thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching and commenting
Rob you know, you have people out of the States with great admiration, herem where I live in Portugal have some dificulty in undesstandind your mesure in inches because sometimes is dificult to ear some numbers. Many thank´s for your good work and disponibility.
Thanks for sharing those tips, and the make, I sold my table saw and replace it with Craftsman 10" RAS.
How fo you like your swap?
The run-out when making the rabbet on the table saw reminded me that the jointer has that feature. I've never used it for that. I always forget.
While tuning the runners you get a good view of the mirror finish on the back of that chisel!
I hit like before I watched video.
It was a premonition!
The truly critical step is making certain the platform is perfectly square vs the William Ng Five Cut Method.
exactley
@@RobCosmanWoodworking So, make the 5 cuts and see how it stands up. Wouldn't take about 60 seconds to do.
@@Bill_CBR I was hoping to see that too, given that he built it before testing. But, then again, when is good enough not good enough?
It was at least as accurate as his square, which is much better than mine on the first measurement, LOL.
The fence made parallel to the blade at the start. MDF squared using fence, rails attached by squaring mdf to fence while glue sets, the rabbet run using the fence, the rabbet tightly set against the mdf base… everything must be aligned. The 5 cut method would only confirm that the fence alignment at the start was done correctly. Amazing.
Perfect timing, as usual! Was watching the drawer making videos!
Perfect! Hope this one helps
@@RobCosmanWoodworking actually, this one really will. I can’t afford a nice SawStop yet, only have a Milwaukee job site table saw, but I’m sure this could be adapted to work on it also (even if dimensions need changed)
@@Borescoped every table saw benefits from a sled. When you get your dream saw, make a new sled.
Thanks!
You bet!
I built a large sled and it works great. However you quickly find the vast majority of your crosscuts are not very wide. So I built a small part sled that is only 10 inches wide. It is probably 1/5th the weight of my large sled making it easier to move and store.
Great point.
I use the same glue spreader. 👊🏽
This is a great method that saves a lot of time. You mention a person named Del or Dale who was the best glue spreader, and I was wondering if there is more you can share? I worked as a cemetery groundskeeper, and I know that saying the names and telling the stories is a great way to honor a person. I have loads of respect for what you are doing for a cause, and your high level of skill. All the best.
Dale Nish - he says your finger is the best glue spreader
Nice sled. Thanks for the video. One suggestion if you want to knock off some weight cut about a 30 degree angle from the front fence to the edge. The MDF in that corner is dead space and doesn’t seem to add any stability to the sled.
great idea
Great project. I happen to have a quantity of Baltic Birch plywood. Would that work in place of the MDF?
I have left over Brazilian cherry (Jatoba) flooring from 2009, I will be using that for my runners. It is very straight and insanely hard, like way harder than Hickory even.
Great video! The rabbit is a clever idea to get the fence square with the blade. Will have to try it. I have to find a way to make my low end king table saw into a sawstop to get the fence extremely accurate. Thanks for the video great advice as always.
the fence is the most important part of a table saw
When I’m trying to dialin for a precision fit, I get it close, then measure with dial calipers the table slot, compare to wood being machined. Using a mag base opposite of fence, position the calipers to contact the mag base and the fence. Loosen and reposition fence and move the necessary amount to achieve desired fit.
I love Osage orange for many many reasons. My favorite wood. A bow made from Osage when Europeans first arrived in America was worth a horse AND a blanket OR a comely young squaw. (First hand account from a journal)
Interesting
Rob, thanks for sharing that build. There are however two things I don't like about Your design. The first is that the blade is coming "out" on "Your" side of the fence (where a thumb might be) without being covered which can be a real security issue, when You concentrate on the cut and not on the back side of the fence. The other is the high reinforcement of the front fence. Both issues can easily be addressed by fixing the fence a few inches away from the front edge of the base plate so that it is not completelysplit by the blade even if it cuts through the fence. A block of wood can then be glued onto the back side of the fence in order to a) additionally re-enforce the stability of fence and base plate and b) cover the blade on the back side of the fence. John Heisz is following this approach ( as well as others) with his mini cross cut sledge. Maybe You'd like to adapt something like that on Your next iteration. Regards Frank
I made a sled a few years ago using purple heart for the runners. I found I he summer it works grew but in the winter the sled wobbles around a bit and doesnt cut true. I am swapping them out for cold rolled steel tomorrow.
Just curious as to why you don’t cut a small relief rabbet on the reference fence to allow for sawdust. When making repetitive cuts, any sawdust left can throw the workpiece out of square.
Would it work to rabbet the fences on a jointer?
"What would we do if it wasn't on..... Probably start over" haha I was waiting on that :) no fine tuning this guy
Yup if its not dead on before you glue and screw the fence…dont glue and screw the fence
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I was waiting to see how you adjust also. So you do not bother with the 5 cut method to check for accuracy. If its square on a machinist square then you are good to go. I like this approach. It is logical, real world. Thank you for another great Video.
@@gnlman If you watch Rob work on almost all his cross cuts he still goes back to the shooting board to ensure it is square and perfectly sized.
can you use a router for the rabbit in the fens ? or is it to tricky ?
To save time and frustration of making runners, the miter slots should be precisely measured with a dial caliper at several points (front, middle, and end) and then select the thinnest measurement minus 1 thousand to be the maximum runner width. The only additional measurement is to check runners for straightness by laying runner on edge of tablesaw top and check for flatness.
Using solid wood for the fence, are you concerned about seasonal movement causing it to go out of square to the blade, or out of 90 degrees to the table? Most every other youtuber I've seen build a sled laminates plywood for the fence
What ripping blade is on your sawstop?
A good video, as always, but I cannot see putting all the work you do into getting two runners to fit your table tracks exactly. Cut the runners a little loose. Shim each one away from the blade with thin strips of playing card, business card or paper. Once the runners are secured to the base with the outer edges of the runners tight against the outer edges of the table tracks, how important is the inner runner edge?
I've actually given up on wood runners. For my last two sleds I used lengths of 3/4-inch T-slot track upside down, shimmed as I described. Setting the tracks takes ten or fifteen minutes.
Hi Rob, thanks for everything you put out there. It's been a great resource. Quick question. The video doesn't actually show you raising the blade and then cutting through the fence of the cross-cut sled: do you raise the blade all the way up (I assume that is safe/something you would want with a cross-cut sled)? Thanks again!
Ah, you do talk about this 5:18 in!
Rob, first of all, thanks for a great video. My existing sled is showing its age and I am considering building another, so this was perfect timing for me.
What are your thoughts on laminating two (or three) sheets of plywood together to make the front fence? This should be very stable and allow you to make it as tall as possible at the blade entry point. I am curious to hear your thoughts on this. Thank you in anticipation.
Thats a good way to make a strong flat face. I would glue one at a time and clamp them to a reference surface such as my table saw table face to ensure they dont warp during glue up
I did this exact thing on mine - 3 strips of 1/2" baltic birch laminated/glued together. It was pretty flat already, but I was able to lightly plane/drum sand the faces to perfection without blowing through the outer veneers.
Rob! Where did you get that jointer plane?
Woodriver #7
Just finishing up mine today
let me know how it comes out
Its turning out to be too nice for my saw. Also I really liked that double clamp trick you used to span across the center.
Hey Rob I have a question. I saw you put screws into the small back fence but did you put any screws in the front fence or only the glue?
Screws there too, got edited out to reduce the running time.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks Rob I really do appreciate your channel. I’m 58 years old and I’m just starting a woodworking business.
Rob - I enjoyed watching you "fiddling" around, trying to get the runners to the correct size. Most sled-making videos I've watch, it's presto, and they fit perfectly. But where did you get that monster plane. WOW!
Its a Woodriver # 7. We actually cut out a good amount of the back and forth fiddling with the runners.
Rob, what would you think about cutting the runners undersized by a 32nd of an inch and use shims to force them tightly against the inner sides of the slots, nearest the saw blade. Then attach the top as shown. The shims would eliminate any potential slop and it would save you a lot of back and forth time trying to get that exact fit.
😀, 👋 , 👍👍👍.
Can you explain why 3/4" stock is needed? I would have expected 1/2" or even 1/4" plywood to remain square. It it the MDF durability, or have I missed something?
3/4” stock is the middle ground between being strong enough for the application (1” would be better) and not robbing you of too much blade depth (1/2” would be preferred). However, since both of those play into the effectiveness of the sled, 3/4” is the best choice. MDF is much more uniform and flat than plywood, as well more stable.
I don’t glue the back fence just one screw for pivot and check for squareness clamp the other and put another screw . Check Mr Ang or nick Perry how he did his
Hi, i have got two issues with the design: the first one is a safety: you should had a block square wood to the back of the fence were the saw blad existing - it will keep your fingers and belly away from the saw. The second one is accuracy: I used the five cuts method, explained very well by William N.G..
I Think you mean William Ng. His five-cut method is excellent for EXTREME accuracy, but having used it since 2011 (when he posted it on his website) , I have found that that level of accuracy was never needed outside of metal-work. and, Unfortunately, i have found that the first knock the wooden sled gets you will lose that accuracy. Its a fun exercise, but not needed in woodworking.
Furthermore, as Rob shows in his videos, he always fine tunes with the plane,, which is far more accurate and fine work than any table saw with any sled,
WRT the safety block you mention, read his reply above about his mentor Dale Nish.
Rob Abbott- I have read his comment and he agree with the " safety block" and he talked about awareness which is very important not just working with power tools. His mentors way of thinking that makes him removing safety features is a an accident to be happened!!!! I see Rob first as a teacher and that is not a good example because he have got a lot of students and followers!!!!! He is using his sawstop because of its safety features ( there goes the awareness a way with the mentor way of thinking), not all of the people can afford buying Sawstop because it's very expensive and you can't buy it where i live ( Israel, i haven't seen it sold in Europe). Buying good saws with ( i am including a job site saw) the same technical or even better performance but without the safety features is more available but you will have to be aware for all😜 risks - safety first!!. "Stumpy Nubbs" and "Steven Ramsey" have got very good content on safety with power tools and ( table saws are included).
Well fantastic. Not sure what precisely your point is as it would be foolish to use non-tool specific techniques on his saw while explaining how to build a crosscut sled. The building steps are ubiquitious across all saw types. And to get a SawStop, looks like DesertCart delivers to Israel. L'Chaim!
I ment the same technical characteristics ( motor, fence...). Toda, shmor al atsmechah ( thanks, and take care)👍
The miter slots on my Sawstop are not uniform in width. Measured at the front, at the blade, at the rear: Left 0.7545; 0.7535; 0.7430. Right 0.7535; 0.7535; 0.7475. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
That tall plywood end piece (near saw operator's abdomen) on your jig doesn't look as graceful as your dovetails or nicely crafted as your other jigs. Also it would obstruct my stopblock/clamp-on efforts too much. Love your work & videos though! Greetings from the U.P. Rob :-)
Don’t need the brace in the back of the sled as your locked into a track. Less weight and easy to store
I like the sled, but I worry about you leaning right over the blade, and how close your fingers get. Others posting sled building videos seem more aware of the dangers. Why not use a push stick at least?
I'm a big fan and I've learned a lot watching your videos, but some of your table saw operations make me cringe. I'm religious about using push sticks for any rip less than about 3", and that final cut on edge with the runners against the fence certainly could have been done before the piece was attached. Maybe it's just because I've had a couple of close calls in my 45 years of woodworking that I always look for a safer way to do things.
Right there with you, safety is important! Bear in mind that he's running a SawStop, and that determine a different methodology. The tool changes how you can work. You wouldn't use a European planer the same way as a US version because the guards are different...the SAFETY mechanisms are different, so you use a different methodology.
U r deffinetly wright about the sledge it worth its weight in gold.
you missed the detail of how you squared the fence with your starrett master square?? arg
No I show it starting at 13:30. I use my smaller square to ensure the fence is square to the miter slot.
What about squaring the crosscut sled back fence? What if that needs to be adjusted?
Don’t worry about that. Focus on the starrett square that I’m concerned about. Me first. U second.
@@MrTooTechnical 😂
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
The base does not need to be square or square to the table or saw blade. The rear fence must be 90 to the blade only, this is done by the 5 cut method, I like to have it within .005 in 20". I make mine 27" long and the width of the cast iron table. Most cabinet doors will fit if need be. I use 3/4 Baltic birch for the base, 2 pieced of 3/4 Baltic birch glued together clamped together on a know flat surface for the front fence and rear fence. front fence is glued and screwed and rear is screwed to the base after the 5 cut method is used to square it ( 6 screws average).
If your base is not square to the saw blade, then how do you get 90° cuts? I'd hate to have all my edges be angled.
@@BobAbbott 5 cut method, you adjust the rear fence till it is square to the blade. This it done with one screw at each end of the rear fence, first setup would be to use a square and rough square it to the blade then set the screws at both ends then do the 5 cut method. Then once you reach that point you add screws to hold the rear fence in place. My sled is square with in .002 to .005 in 20". ua-cam.com/video/UbG-n--LFgQ/v-deo.html
@@kb6dxn I know the 5 cut method. And the 3 cut. But that’s not what I’m talking about. You stated the base does not need to be square to the blade. That’s not true.
@@BobAbbott The base does not need to be square or square to the saw blade only the rear fence needs to be square to the blade of the saw. That was the point I was making. Way to much time was spent on the base.
@@kb6dxn so one runner is higher than the other runner. Enough to tilt the base two degrees. Now when I crosscut a piece of lumber it’s no longer square, it’s got a 2 degree bevel on it. Yes the rear fence should be square to the blade. But so should the base be square to the blade.
Did you get a new fence or is this a recycled video?
Its a brand new saw stop and my old sactficial fence for the other sawstop wont fit this fence!!!!
Ha, mine is a quarter inch
Why does everyone put a rear fence on cross cut sleds? I'm sure they serve a purpose but I don't see it.
Not a rear “fence,” it’s a rear support because it is being cut in half.
Get a quality Radial arm and sell the sled and give away the table saw 😜❗
Osage indians gave it its name
I did not know that. Its the only domestic wood considered “oily”
Ffs, METRIC METRIC METRIC
GOOGLE MILLIMETRES.
This should have been a graders project, trial and error, trial and error, the worst way to do anything.
turn off the blower
You know there such a thing as a sliding table saw.
Just saying...
Yes. If you have the room and the money for it its great
@@RobCosmanWoodworking , Most Americans have no idea of the availability and capabilities of a sliding table saw.
Also they are available in sizes almost a small as a Uni-Saw.
Not gonna lie I didn’t enjoy this video that much. The way you used the fence to “make it square”, is not the best way I’ve seen this done. Yea, I realize the skinning a cat reference but this has assumptions that it’s square. Also cutting the rabbit instead of using 2 screws, using 5 cut and setting the fence seems not to be as accurate. I would appreciate a final result that shows the accuracy of this with a 5 cut method. Also if it’s off with the rabbet you can’t correct anything.
exactly my thoughts
The only thing that matters is the final result when checked with a square (which he did). The 5 cut method process is merely the means to get there. Yes, I'd be hesitant to use Rob's method as there's no adjustability (as he said, "if it's off, you need to start over".), but as long as it's square, that's all that matters. I've made a bunch of crosscut sleds over the years using the 5 cut method. The last one I had dialed in to within less than a .001. Perfect, I thought... until I checked the cut with a square and it was off. I spent a lot of time trying to get it dialed in ... I eventually abandoned the 5 cut process and went straight to the square and finally got it. That still has me scratching my head.
@@philshock3805 you don’t use 5 cut method to get it square. That’s just to check if it’s square. James and Kings Fine Woodworking here on UA-cam made an amazing video and table saw sled. Go check it out!
@@bigscreenbird8198 I am looking for that sled. Is it the one in a video from October 17, 2017?? Do you watch and trust this channel. I have never heard of this one before your post.
@@number6396 It's a great channel. Check out his giant wood screws that he makes.
I think, if you are demonstrating a build method we can all use, then don’t take handles of chisels to thin your runners…find a method anyone can employ.
"What would we do if it wasn't square?"....."Good Luck".............thanks Rob, that helps a whole hell of a lot.......thumbs downs on this one
Hey Greg, missed you! What bridge you been hiding under?