Never used these features either need to experiment also Decided to keep my Tamron 75-300 as it shoots fine with Pentax IBIS That was the main complaint that the lens was hard to stabilize at 300mm with no image Stabilization not a problem with Pentax IBIS
Tried your exposure setting on my old *istDL what a difference it made in the camera I had already changed to focus to center spot but the exposures were dark until I locked the exposure to the focal point. It even made the autofocus work faster and better . Have to try the same setting on my K-50 and K70
Great job! I use the same settings and prefer to work Tav but setting the K-S1 up for my wife so she can shoot Auto with those settings. Thanks! I used this video to get to the settings.
Absolutely. It's not the exact same as Nikon, but you can change and/or customize the white balance even by color temperature. And you can change the imaging settings by using custom image. Everything from sharpness, to saturation, color tone and more is adjustable. There's also Muted, vibrant, bright etc, color settings. You can also develop raw images in camera.
@@KobieMC I know all that. I already own the K-1 which I'm very satisfied with so far. But somehow I find the overall color tone rendering leaning towards the "cold" (blueish) side. I've tried by changing the color temperature (in the WB menu), but that's not practical because the value you set is being used by the camera all over the light conditions (it's a forced value), so it remains the same regardless if you are shooting during a sunrise, a sunset, a sunny day or a cloudy day. (For instance, for strong lighting conditions like a very sunny day, Nikon do set their cameras to 5200K by default, which gives a very natural and pleasing tonal balance, whereas Pentax with the same lighting conditions do automatically set the WB to a temperature of 5000K by default, which certainly is colder; so in a very sunny day I tried by changing the manual WB temperature setting on my K-1 to 5100K and that seems to be the perfect value for that specific lighting condition, but it's not valid on cloudy days or during sunsets because the camera will need higher temperatures to compensate and I ignore which values to use and I can't be changing that setting manually every single time I shoot)... I've also tried by changing the dot on the color palette (manual color setting), but that's even worse because what you actually do is adding or sustracting a color dominance. So what I need is, like on Nikon cameras, setting the overall color tone balance by choosing "cold", "neutral" or "warm" (and the color temperature will still vary automatically by the camera depending on the light conditions). However I can't find that setting ("cold", "neutral", "warm") on my K-1.
Are you using multi auto white balance, or auto white balance? I haven't had that issue with my K-3. If anything it leans towards the red/magenta side so in the image settings (bright, vibrant etc) I adjusted it to reduce the reds.
I've noticed some differences between the 2. Multi seems to do a better job for accuracy. Your mileage may vary, but worth trying since it uses 86,000 pixels instead of using fixed zones.
I'm just not getting this . I admit it I'm stupid . I thought that when you put the camera in tav mode you would always want the exposure to be at the correct exposure by allowing it to change as you move from light to dark . Its the main reason for the tav setting . if you set 4 to 2 or on you are locking the iso from changing so what happens is if you focus in the middle of the room and you pan right to the sun and you take the shot the photo will be blown out on the right side . But if you leave 4 on 1 then after you focus in the middle of the room and pan right to the sun and take the shot the camera is allowed to change the iso so the right side is not blown out and will be a perfect photo . So why would you ever want to stop the camera from keeping the correct exposure in tav mode when your focusing in the middle of the room and panning left or right that has different exposures ? You are defeating the purpose of the tav mode . If you want to keep the exposure the same on what you focused on just use Manual mode lock the focus pan the camera and shoot this way the exposure stays the same when you pan to the sun and when you set 4 to 2 isn't that what your doing ? If you don't like the camera to stay in the correct exposure then just don't use the tav mode . The factory setting for 4 is 1 because they want the tav mode to work as it should . As you pan the camera the iso will change to keep the correct exposure so you can focus and shoot and always know where the camera is pointing will be in the correct exposure .
Different situations call for different shoot settings, but, this has nothing to do with TaV or other SHOOTING modes. This is about the actual EXPOSURE metering. Completely different. In the default setting in avg metering, it's not as precise if you don't lock it to the focus point bias. It can easily get confused and under/over expose because it's taking the entire lighting from the scene and not your subject of focus as your priority. I hope that helps explain it. 🙂
@@KobieMC Just so I'm understanding the way you set the camera with both 4 and 5 on 2 your tav mode is not going to work as it was meant to work right ? By setting the camera that way you really don't have a tav mode right ?
TaV still works as it should. The shooting mode has nothing to do with the light metering. All you're doing by changing the setting is having the actual light meter in the camera bias the light reading/metering on the focus point or not on the focus point. Have it locked when focus is locked or have the light meter constantly adjust even after you've made your initial settings and locked in your focus.
Never used these features either need to experiment also
Decided to keep my Tamron 75-300 as it shoots fine with Pentax IBIS
That was the main complaint that the lens was hard to stabilize at 300mm with no image Stabilization not a problem with Pentax IBIS
Interesting topic. I knew of this feature but have never thought through or experimented with it. Looking forward to testing the two modes.
Tried your exposure setting on my old *istDL what a difference it made in the camera I had already changed to focus to center spot but the exposures were dark until I locked the exposure to the focal point. It even made the autofocus work faster and better . Have to try the same setting on my K-50 and K70
Awesome! I had no idea that these features went as far back as the *istDL, that's amazing!
Great job! I use the same settings and prefer to work Tav but setting the K-S1 up for my wife so she can shoot Auto with those settings. Thanks! I used this video to get to the settings.
Liking your tutorials 👍
Thanks! 🙂
Dopeness 🔥 🔥 🔥 🔥
Do Pentax cameras have the possibility, like Nikon do, of changing the cast setting (overall tone) between "cold", "neutral" and "warm"?
Absolutely. It's not the exact same as Nikon, but you can change and/or customize the white balance even by color temperature. And you can change the imaging settings by using custom image. Everything from sharpness, to saturation, color tone and more is adjustable. There's also Muted, vibrant, bright etc, color settings. You can also develop raw images in camera.
@@KobieMC
I know all that. I already own the K-1 which I'm very satisfied with so far. But somehow I find the overall color tone rendering leaning towards the "cold" (blueish) side.
I've tried by changing the color temperature (in the WB menu), but that's not practical because the value you set is being used by the camera all over the light conditions (it's a forced value), so it remains the same regardless if you are shooting during a sunrise, a sunset, a sunny day or a cloudy day. (For instance, for strong lighting conditions like a very sunny day, Nikon do set their cameras to 5200K by default, which gives a very natural and pleasing tonal balance, whereas Pentax with the same lighting conditions do automatically set the WB to a temperature of 5000K by default, which certainly is colder; so in a very sunny day I tried by changing the manual WB temperature setting on my K-1 to 5100K and that seems to be the perfect value for that specific lighting condition, but it's not valid on cloudy days or during sunsets because the camera will need higher temperatures to compensate and I ignore which values to use and I can't be changing that setting manually every single time I shoot)...
I've also tried by changing the dot on the color palette (manual color setting), but that's even worse because what you actually do is adding or sustracting a color dominance.
So what I need is, like on Nikon cameras, setting the overall color tone balance by choosing "cold", "neutral" or "warm" (and the color temperature will still vary automatically by the camera depending on the light conditions). However I can't find that setting ("cold", "neutral", "warm") on my K-1.
Are you using multi auto white balance, or auto white balance? I haven't had that issue with my K-3. If anything it leans towards the red/magenta side so in the image settings (bright, vibrant etc) I adjusted it to reduce the reds.
@@KobieMC
I'm using AWB, not Multi AWB. Why?
I've noticed some differences between the 2. Multi seems to do a better job for accuracy. Your mileage may vary, but worth trying since it uses 86,000 pixels instead of using fixed zones.
Just one thing you had SR enabled on a tripod
I know, usually when I'm using a tripod I have mirror up enabled or I'm using the timer which disables the SR.
@@KobieMC Happens to us all. :)
I'm just not getting this . I admit it I'm stupid . I thought that when you put the camera in tav mode you would always want the exposure to be at the correct exposure by allowing it to change as you move from light to dark . Its the main reason for the tav setting . if you set 4 to 2 or on you are locking the iso from changing so what happens is if you focus in the middle of the room and you pan right to the sun and you take the shot the photo will be blown out on the right side . But if you leave 4 on 1 then after you focus in the middle of the room and pan right to the sun and take the shot the camera is allowed to change the iso so the right side is not blown out and will be a perfect photo . So why would you ever want to stop the camera from keeping the correct exposure in tav mode when your focusing in the middle of the room and panning left or right that has different exposures ? You are defeating the purpose of the tav mode . If you want to keep the exposure the same on what you focused on just use Manual mode lock the focus pan the camera and shoot this way the exposure stays the same when you pan to the sun and when you set 4 to 2 isn't that what your doing ? If you don't like the camera to stay in the correct exposure then just don't use the tav mode . The factory setting for 4 is 1 because they want the tav mode to work as it should . As you pan the camera the iso will change to keep the correct exposure so you can focus and shoot and always know where the camera is pointing will be in the correct exposure .
Different situations call for different shoot settings, but, this has nothing to do with TaV or other SHOOTING modes. This is about the actual EXPOSURE metering. Completely different. In the default setting in avg metering, it's not as precise if you don't lock it to the focus point bias. It can easily get confused and under/over expose because it's taking the entire lighting from the scene and not your subject of focus as your priority. I hope that helps explain it. 🙂
@@KobieMC Just so I'm understanding the way you set the camera with both 4 and 5 on 2 your tav mode is not going to work as it was meant to work right ? By setting the camera that way you really don't have a tav mode right ?
TaV still works as it should. The shooting mode has nothing to do with the light metering. All you're doing by changing the setting is having the actual light meter in the camera bias the light reading/metering on the focus point or not on the focus point. Have it locked when focus is locked or have the light meter constantly adjust even after you've made your initial settings and locked in your focus.
LOL, great intro
Thanks!, glad you enjoyed it!
lol