My DD-5 was way high on TQ. I changed the cam to ICL 108° and switched from Large tube to Small tube headers: 356hp @5000 423tq @2500 ***Highest HP and highest HP/TQ Average I had to change the ICL to 111°
Great content! I always enjoy your videos. I have been a diy mechanic for over 30 years and have never dyno tested anything I have built. This really puts it into a realistic perspective as to what to expect from a similar combo. I never tell anyone how much horsepower I expect an engine I build will make bc there are just too many factors that can affect the outcome.
I put basically the same set up in my 1983 chevy c20 truck project. Same cam and all. Lol. I made 350 as well with the ported stock heads. So I'm happy to see the same results. I wish I could share pictures in your comments. Nice build Allen. Looks an sounds great !!!
We built a 355 sbc with set of flotek heads , flat tappet hydraulic cam stock cast bottom end and made really good power and torque for 1600 bucks . This was a great video to show what you can do in a low dollar build.
@@OGfancy420 Engines can get expensive quick. I'm currently building a "low buck" 357ci that's gonna make 500+hp NA, but it's already $5000+ in parts & machine work. Probably be $6000 to $6500 bucks before it runs. "Low buck".....
Nice build and a positive outcome. For the investment pretty good results. I am impressed. Nice explanation on the dyno sheets by Darell. Thanks for sharing. Take care, Ed.
Good real world video enjoy the fact that you don't hide things and most times heads will seal up better after run in most shops now days won't lap valves after valve job . Keep up the real work .
Thanks Larry. We were hoping for the valves to seal, and sometimes they do, however I actually checked the worst cylinder halfway through the dyno test and it was still pretty bad. AG
Thanks ,learned alot from this video, good info, my son and I built a similar engine, the only difference is we tore it down again and put new flat top pistons rods ARP,bolts they came with the rods, and new aftermarket cast vortec heads and a 1102 classic cam, 1.6 roller tip rockers. We have not dyno the motor hope to this or next summer. We are in eastern ont. Orleans area,
Very comprehensive garrage Build & Dyno test Results on this 350 Chevy.....The unfortunate High Leak-Down cylinder Issues is Why I like to Leak-Down test all heads Before Engine Assembly by Clamping a 1/2" thick Sealing Plate (with appropriate Gasket or rubber O-ring) to Each cylinder head Deck Combustion Chamber & performing Leak-Down test to catch All cylinder head & valve job Leakage Before Engine Assembly.....This way Each cylinders Total assembled Leak-Down # can be Identified & Evaluated to Valve job Leakage or Piston ring/Bore Sealing Seperate categories.....
That is a great idea Tom. I may work on fabricating a plate to do this. In the meantime, from now on I will make a leakdown test right after I install the heads. If they leak, take them off and fix them before continuing. AG
300 h.p. at 4000 rpm with 50 more and good torque also. The rings are sealing up the friction in the motor will lessen a little with miles and when you fix the leaky valves it gonna get the 375. And Nice idle drive ability engine. Good video thanks.
I'm currently building a 350. I bought a 30 over block with crank, cam, and a double roller chain and gears. The motor was rebuilt and had a coupla hundred miles on it when it spun a rod bearing. I bought the block and parts for $50! I bought a 350 steel crank for $75. A set of 68 fuelie heads with new 2.02 and 1.60 valves for $100. I bought a set of next to new rods and flat top cast pistons for $40. I bought a brand new Performer intake for $120. A 650 Holley D.P. for $125. Gonna be a good running street motor for about $1000.
You can change the spring in the oil pump to lower the oil pressure and if bearing clearance is too tight, use bearings that have .001" extra clearance, perfect bearing clearance for small block should be .002" on rods and .0025" on mains.
Thanks Leonard. We were pretty close to that in this build. The clearance is sufficient. The oil pressure spring will relieve at the set point, but if more volume of oil keeps coming, the pressure will still increase. Pumps pump volume, pressure occurs when the flow is restricted. Pressure x Volume is a constant. AG
Very interesting. Good to see also what bad leak down test can produce. Maybe some of the leak down is due to the rings not being broke in? But I know from experience that one can get bad valve job even from an experienced machinist. In my case the seats cut beautifully but he was off by maybe a degree on the valve lean. So it looks fine but when shining a light in the port its obvious that the valve seat is canted in relation to the valve. He dont normally vacuum test but go by look, sound etc. And in a case like this vacuum would show anything since in would draw the valve shut/sealed. Might have sealed up fine in the engine but would have worn out the valve guides for sure. And since one pay for excellence ist whats expected. And the head porter/machinist was dismayed and wanted to fix it. Everyone can make mistakes. So one need to check and check again it would seem.
Thanks for your valued comments as always Magnus. We were curious also, now we know! Yes, things happen and mistakes are made. That is why it is so important to check. I wonder how many engines are running around with the same issue and the owner is oblivious to it. From now on I will be doing a leak down test as soon as the heads are installed. AG
Yep, no way a "500"cfm two-barrel carb is going to make as much power as a 600cfm four-barrel, even if the engine is "claiming" it's only using "500"cfm. Great video, thanks for sharing!
Am I missing something here on your price list at 27:01 on the video? I don’t see the new piston and rod price on it. Video #1 you said they ran $540.00 US, just wondering. Thanks
Thanks for your question Justin. The pistons that Mike bought were Hypereutectic. When i measured the piston to cylinder wall clearance it was too much for a Hypereutectic piston so Mike returned them. The original pistons were forged and the clearance was good for forged pistons (.0035" -.004") so Mike cleaned them up and we reused them. We did replace one of the pistons and mounted it on the original rod. Sorry for the confusion. AG
That's a cheap investment for what your doing to get the power you are happy with. If I build an engine for someone I tell them approximate how much HP they can expect out of it. It all depends on what parts are put in it. There is a few variables... My BBC is a 468" engine, strictly a race car engine. 12.3 comp. Solid roller cam, SV1 carb, 1150cfm, BB-2 Brodix heads, 310 cc. Single carb one barrel. The parts are new, but they are over 30 yrs. old. Makes good HP, 800+. It makes 1.7 HP per cubic inch. It's fast for what it is. 66 Chevelle tune chassis and is light, 2,370 lbs. with driver. 5.40's et. in 1/8 th mile at over 125mph. And 8.60's et at 155mph in the 1/4 mile. I have a big engine Iam building that puts out around 1,300 HP on alcohol methenal, with 15:.1 compression with flattop Pistons. Power range on cam is 4,000-8,500 rpm.
Great video though! I love it when people do real diy builds! Builds using oem iron heads are much more interesting to me becouse thats my caliber. Thats what i relate to because thats what my builds are like. This is the best! The only way it would have been more relatable for me is if it was the same, but with a ford FE. Thats what im workiin with in my shop.
Hope you do a video on what got messed up on the heads, makes you wonder just how good the whole valve job was, could be power in getting some decent seats and angles cut, back cut intake valves ? Reduce exhaust duration to make more power, that'd be a first, fuel out the exhaust, well yer, the exhaust valves aren't sealing.
What does the engine sound like while it is cranking, can you hear cylinders low on pressure when you get the valves sealed up you might try 1.6 rockers, but only on the intake side. I've usually found a substantial gain on the average.
Thanks David. It sounds fine, so evidence of anything wrong. We will do another leak down and compression test when I get the engine back here and fix whatever is wrong. 1.6 on the intake only makes sense. AG
My guess on the 2 barrel was 30hp and 20tq down. Strange it lost more torque than horsepower. I've seen 550+hp 355s lose 70+hp with a 2 barrel. Should have tried a 750 doublepumper and a 750 3310 vacuum secondary carb also. Might have picked up a few numbers. 350 LT-1 came stock with a 780 vacuum secondary 4150 carb. They were rated at 360hp in the Z-28 & 370hp in the Vette. They actually made in the 350+hp range bone stock on a dyno with headers.
I was thinking about that as well. Richard Holder did some tests on some of the factory muscle engines & his tests showed some of them didn't quite live up to their claim but in those days nobody probably ever knew! A factory 327 that made 350hp is no slouch back then! They may have claimed to be 375 & not really had it but nobody would have doubted them! 350hp would have ran amazing!!
@@jesseduke694 yep, 1 horse per cube is respectable. Those engines responded to modifications pretty easy tho, wasent hard to pull another 100hp out of them. NHRA legal "Stock" LT-1 350s make over 500+hp and run 10s in the 1/4. NHRA Superstock 350hp L-79 327s are well over 600hp these days. Same with the Superstock 350s. They have potential. A stock engine is really just a core. GM definitely didn't have them maxed out. But they had warranties and were expected to rack up hundreds of thousands of miles. Manufacturers would give them a soft tune for the consumers. But they all had untapped power just waiting to be released. GM probably got those 360 and 370hp ratings for the LT-1 with a sharply tuned blueprinted version of the engine on a dyno with no accessories. Pontiac often underrated their muscle car engines. A RAM AIR 4 400 makes alot more than 370hp. They smoked Hemi Cudas and LS-6 454 Chevelles back in the day.
@@jesseduke694 I went to a pure stock musclecar shootout in Memphis Tennessee back in the late 80s, out of a couple hundred of the best factory musclecars ever built, a 68 Firebird with a RAM AIR 2 400 Pontiac engine beat them all. 3 yrs in a row actually. Same guy, name was Jim Mino. I think that firebird was running high 11s@120+mph on stock red line tires. There waa a 69 Super Bee with a 440 six pack also in the high 11s, it came in second place. Those cars were running under alot of rules and limitations. Engines totally stock. Tires were terrible.
There was a day not so far in the past 1 HP per CI was a respectable number... Regardless of it not hitting the goal with today's UA-cam ant boosted everything so many young folks think you need a minimum of 600hp to have a "fast" vehical but in reality with good gears, decent chassis on the lighter side like a Camaro, nova, g body s-10 and well sorted transmission setup 350hp/400ftbs will give you a pretty rowdy ride, it's plenty of power to blaze the tires off , and a lively 0 to 60. Look at how legendary the old 5.0 mustang GTs were everyone thought they were one of the hottest things on the street well they were in the low 3000lb area and had 225 net HP! Gross was 260ish I think that's almost a 100hp less than this engine. And people were dipping into the 13s with the top form of the fox mustang GTs. No your not going to hang with hellcats on the turnpike but who cares. The only thing I would have done differently with this engine is I would have gone a bit larger on the cam like something in the 230° area and .480" lift I would stick with DV's ICL rule of thumb, and I would have gone with a better intake basically a high rise dual plane, the EPS is like a factory replacement type like the standard performer. At least go the performer rpm standard or air gap doesn't matter air gap if there's a couple extra bucks available, with those there's no real loss down low and noticable gains up top on most every warmed over engine. But hey that's just me I'm not saying anything was wrong per se it's just what I would do. And with an engine like this if built right would go for years reliably you could easily daily it and get half way decent fuel economy like mid teens if tuned right. If you want a cool daily commuter that is actually pretty fast feeling this is a great engine setup.
@@goldsgarage8236 don't take it as I'm 2nd guessing your choices you made your choices for a reason I'm Shure your combo would be a solid very drivable combo making a lot of usable instant torque, I'm just willing to give up a small amount of practicality for a bit more plus I always try to make choices of compromise like some drivability for a roudy idle but gaining more power that's not a guarantee, howards flat tappet 112831-08 .480"/480" 231°/231° 106 centerline 108 lsa is an awesome street camshaft. I don't want to seem like a keyboard critic there's to many of those already.
I wouldn't be ashamed of 400lbs of torque from a stock 350. I'd be happy as a pig in slop with the money for power results. Yes, 1000hp is nice but, how long will it live ondy street and how much does it cost. A torquestorm blower would be nice tho
Thanks Blown572. Mike has decided to replace the heads. I have a pair of GM Performance Fast Burn heads that we will be installing. Watch for a follow up. AG
Can you share the part numbers for each product you bought for this build please? I'm currently in the same boat with similar budget and would like to go this route. I would really appreciate it! I saw your first episode of this series where you put the sheet but it didnt have the part numbers listed.
Thanks for the question. I talked to Mike about this today as it was his engine. Mike will try to come up with some part numbers for you. Be patient and watch this post. Good luck with your build. AG
Good evening great job on the build I also am doing the same motor and have been trying to find your list of parts you used. I have the same pistons, hardened tappets, and would like to copy what you did mine is a Dec 1969 build 4 bolt main CRE any way, were could I find your build list I have all the parts except the cam Thank you for putting up the videos
Bought a 92 bbc with peanut ports spun it over till we hit compression it sat a few more day went to turn it over again and it still had good compression
Thanks for the question Steve. Usually about 13:1 under load at RPM. We pay more attention to BSFC, Brake Specific Fuel Consumption. Pounds of fuel per HP hour. It is a measure of the efficiency of the engine. AG
I dont remember? Did u guys build the heads urself? I guess im wondering why the exhoust valves were leaking? It happens i know. But did u have a shop cut the seats or did u guys do them urself with stones?
Thanks Jesse, kind of a combination of all the above. We will do a follow up video of the tear down and inspection, with lessons learned and recommendations. AG
Nice test but a little disappointing on power .... Dyno cell did not look like it has a lot of exhaust room but a muffler might have helped and I assume the engine will be run with full exhaust system in the car..... If you do pull the heads look for fuel wash in the chamber .... With unknown port work that funny low rpm dip you got could be from fuel dropout .... With that camshaft and what you saw at peak a 1.5 rocker on the exhaust side only would probably help ..... Also flow cfm on the hat is not the same cfm as a carb measured with a pressure drop though your carb size should be ok ... Did you run a spacer? 1 inch open might help peak
Thank you for your input, the dyno has dual 8” exhaust running out to an underground muffler and has train locomotive air cleaners, so there’s no restriction on the intake or exhaust. 👍🏻
@@DarrellWatters you missed my point ..... I understand how it's setup ..that has nothing to do with how the engine runs because it's designed to be no restriction .... My point was that adding a muffler or even full exhaust to the engine will change how it runs and in this case you are thinking it's over scavenging ...now this can happen with a tuned open exhaust but not so much with a full exhaust system and muffler ... Because we do mostly street driven engines we tend to Dyno with a full exhaust system in place but our Dyno cell is designed with extra room so we can do that and test different exhaust systems
@@scotthatch4548 oh most definitely it will affect everything if a full exhaust system is hooked up, I unfortunately don’t have the room for that, most unhook the exhaust or have dumps for racing which will take advantage of the dyno tune. Thank you for your input.
There is more power in that engine, if you balance fuel A and fuel B. Your dyno guy should know that. Tune the carb so Fuel A and Fuel B read the same, you will be amazed at the power gains.
No new bore, no new pistons, what does anyone expect. If most of the problem is with leaky valves that is much easier than taking apart the whole motor. I have just had a nightmare with a motor that idles smooth but as soon as load backfires. I now know inside out a Quadrajet. The problem was bad wires that are not old and 8.5mm, When I put the ohm meter to them I found dead wires. It is all logic and taking analysis one thing at a time in the elimination process when you do not know what the problem really is.
Bill, unfortunately there are no Chevy Stools in my shop, just Dodge and Mopar stools, but nevertheless, every engine leaves my shop making the most power and torque it possibly can with the combination it came with, I sell tuning, not horsepower 😉 I don’t care how much each engine makes, as long as it makes the most it can when it leaves my shop!👍🏻
To bad we couldnt make those numbers with a ford 302 for $1600…….350hp 5.0 is well over $5k……im a chevy guy myself but my teenage son recently gotta ‘67 mustang 289 coupe…..i picked up a 302 roller motor out of an OJ bronco to build with him for when he is ready to move up from the tired 200hp 289……..im hoping for close to 300hp with the 302…….i tried to convince him to get a GM product cause i have tons of LS stuff on hand but he was set on a ford🤮🤮🤮
Yes all the information was properly inputted, I did a calculated VE for that engine and it came out to 87%, but that’s what the engine can displace, due to ram effect/velocity of small ports, cam selection and exhaust way over scavenging will increase airflow speed which will affect cylinder filling of over 100% and can increase VE. The heads were ported to take advantage of the low lift flow, which the engine sees twice as opposed to max lift flow, which will increase cylinder filling, I do realize there are formulas to calculate these readings, but I’ve seen things on the dyno over the past 30 years that don’t always make sense, but as long as the engine is happy and makes good power, I don’t question it. I’ve had some great local engine builders on my dyno and they are quite happy with the data I provide and tuning as well. Thank you for your comment. Dyno tuning is quite interesting as every engine is different, even if it’s the same build as the last one.👍🏻
You're still making >1 Hp per cube inch so not too bad considering the modest Build Budget.....Wish youall would've Killed a good Leak-Down Cylinder & Measured Power drop & Compared to one of the Bad Leak-Down cylinder to Determine Exactly how Much the Leaking Valve cylinder is Actually Down on Hp if any Significant.....Some Leaking Valve Cylinders produce Amazing Good normal dyno Hp.....As is, the motor seems to be Producing about Average power Results for a Typical DIY garrage Build.....
Thanks Tom. We didn't think to try that but we were curious to see how much the leak down would hurt. I did a leak down test on the worst cylinder half way through the dyno day and it was still over 35%. AG
Sure Dak, one of my first builds in 1969 was a 302 which was the original engine in my 68 Z28. The 302 is a great racing engine but needs to rev 7000RPM to make power. For street it need a light car with lots of gear. AG
@@goldsgarage8236Thanks for the response! I have been doing some research on it and it seems like most people run solid lifters. Would you be able to run hydraulic lifters and still make 400-500 hp? I just bought a 68 camaro and I have always loved the z/28 and trans am racing, so I am considering building mine along those lines, but still a street car. I know that engine is not the best for the street and I'm okay with that.
Thanks Dak. I think if I was building a 302 for a 68 Z28 I would use the original and correct solid lifter camshaft. Summit sells knock offs for this cam. I owned my Z28 in 1969 and back then it was my daily driver. It was fun to drive and I revved it 7000RPM frequently. I drag raced it on the weekends and drove it during the week (with a 4.88:1 gear) with no issues. The piston speed of a 302 at 7000RPM is the same as a 350 at 6034RPM. You have to rev a 302 to make power and it is difficult to do that with a hydraulic cam. If you have an M21 transmission I would suggest at least 4.10:1 gear. An M20 transmission actually works better on the street. 2.52 vs 2.2 first gear ratio. My M21 is stored safely in my basement and I use an M20 in the car. problems with a solid lifter cam are over rated and your Z will be much more authentic with the solid cam. That is my input for what it is worth. Good luck on your build. AG
@@dak9600imo you would be better off picking up a 350 core and boring and stroking it with 6” rods. Still doesn’t cost a lot and will make much better power and a small block is a small block so your car still going to feel the same weight wise without giving up power and needing to rev to the moon to get best power.
You can get 400 plus HP from a vortec 350, with the correct cam, intake, and headers. Any day of the week. Plenty of information, and videos out there to prove it.
While you’re replacing distributer springs you can explain without stopping work. It took you 3 sentences to say it was Mikes time to say something but he had nothing to say If you just find it impossible to talk less, find a better editor to cut words and overlap talking with working.
i don't have a computer to do stuff but i do know what the car weighs and how long of a road it needs to get up to 65mph... 250lbft average between first and second gear 4100lb 160 meters, 350lbft split on first gear and "deceleration torque" 460lbft to stall the motor down from 5k to 2000rpm thru the converter... "things that broke" not always a dyno to know 🥸 nothing but HP calculated on total fuel flow? 360hp for a 4.6 modular ford with 365'000km on it 🤔 "😶🌫...😴🐑" 23 gallons an hour 😵💫 fuel burn in time of the 160 meters corrected for elevation... 92% efficient at sea level. computer just does the same number calculations without a pen and paper "printer" 😅 4300lb to 65mph in 100 yards (HP to other data), the OEM equipment took 370 yards to get up to 65mph and that was ratted 205hp 275lbft. (not too many took physics in school, but one said 8 times the power to go twice "half", not even close to being accurate? hmm)
Do you think you need to fill time? Is that why you talk so much. Please work on talking less, repeating yourself less, and show us more work. I don’t want to quit watching you but I’m close to as a metaphor breaking up with you. You’re talking our relationship to death.
Fun build i wouldn't be too disappointed, this demonstrates the value in dyno tuning to smooth out the delivery
Thanks for commenting.AG
My DD-5 was way high on TQ. I changed the cam to ICL 108° and switched from Large tube to Small tube headers:
356hp @5000
423tq @2500
***Highest HP and highest HP/TQ Average I had to change the ICL to 111°
Thanks Headflow. You are having fun with your program. All good info, thanks for sharing. AG
Great content! I always enjoy your videos. I have been a diy mechanic for over 30 years and have never dyno tested anything I have built. This really puts it into a realistic perspective as to what to expect from a similar combo. I never tell anyone how much horsepower I expect an engine I build will make bc there are just too many factors that can affect the outcome.
Thanks JebBuster, appreciate your comments. AG
I put basically the same set up in my 1983 chevy c20 truck project. Same cam and all. Lol. I made 350 as well with the ported stock heads. So I'm happy to see the same results. I wish I could share pictures in your comments. Nice build Allen. Looks an sounds great !!!
Thanks Brandon, sounds like we are thinking along the same lines. AG
We built a 355 sbc with set of flotek heads , flat tappet hydraulic cam stock cast bottom end and made really good power and torque for 1600 bucks . This was a great video to show what you can do in a low dollar build.
Thanks Backyard. Your comments validate the point we were trying to make. AG
I actually would love to see or get a list of the things to get, bc I’m trying to turn my 350 into a strong 355 motor
350hp/400tq fresh SBC for $1600 bucks is a good deal.
Thanks Reluctant, always appreciate your input. AG
It is, considering the price of about 100 more hp and tq
@@OGfancy420 Engines can get expensive quick. I'm currently building a "low buck" 357ci that's gonna make 500+hp NA, but it's already $5000+ in parts & machine work. Probably be $6000 to $6500 bucks before it runs. "Low buck".....
@thereluctantgearhead4544 my 383 was 4k shipped, and that was in 2019. Same engine is 6k before shipping and taxes now.
@@goldsgarage8236 makes me wonder if someone secretly had a gun to his head to price it at that number!
Nice build and a positive outcome.
For the investment pretty good results.
I am impressed.
Nice explanation on the dyno sheets by Darell.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
Thanks for your nice comments Ed. Glad you enjoyed it. AG
Good real world video enjoy the fact that you don't hide things and most times heads will seal up better after run in most shops now days won't lap valves after valve job . Keep up the real work .
Thanks Larry. We were hoping for the valves to seal, and sometimes they do, however I actually checked the worst cylinder halfway through the dyno test and it was still pretty bad. AG
Thanks ,learned alot from this video, good info, my son and I built a similar engine, the only difference is we tore it down again and put new flat top pistons rods ARP,bolts they came with the rods, and new aftermarket cast vortec heads and a 1102 classic cam, 1.6 roller tip rockers. We have not dyno the motor hope to this or next summer. We are in eastern ont. Orleans area,
Thanks Terry, sounds like you will have a nice engine. Glad my video was helpful. AG
Very comprehensive garrage Build & Dyno test Results on this 350 Chevy.....The unfortunate High Leak-Down cylinder Issues is Why I like to Leak-Down test all heads Before Engine Assembly by Clamping a 1/2" thick Sealing Plate (with appropriate Gasket or rubber O-ring) to Each cylinder head Deck Combustion Chamber & performing Leak-Down test to catch All cylinder head & valve job Leakage Before Engine Assembly.....This way Each cylinders Total assembled Leak-Down # can be Identified & Evaluated to Valve job Leakage or Piston ring/Bore Sealing Seperate categories.....
That is a great idea Tom. I may work on fabricating a plate to do this. In the meantime, from now on I will make a leakdown test right after I install the heads. If they leak, take them off and fix them before continuing. AG
300 h.p. at 4000 rpm with 50 more and good torque also. The rings are sealing up the friction in the motor will lessen a little with miles and when you fix the leaky valves it gonna get the 375. And Nice idle drive ability engine. Good video thanks.
Thanks Jacqueline. You are right on. watch for the follow up video. AG
I'm currently building a 350. I bought a 30 over block with crank, cam, and a double roller chain and gears. The motor was rebuilt and had a coupla hundred miles on it when it spun a rod bearing. I bought the block and parts for $50! I bought a 350 steel crank for $75. A set of 68 fuelie heads with new 2.02 and 1.60 valves for $100. I bought a set of next to new rods and flat top cast pistons for $40. I bought a brand new Performer intake for $120. A 650 Holley D.P. for $125. Gonna be a good running street motor for about $1000.
Congratulations Rick. That is the ultimate budget build. Shows what you can do if you are resourceful. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 With me it's budget build or nothing! I'm not broke but I'm severely bent! Ha! Ha!
You can change the spring in the oil pump to lower the oil pressure and if bearing clearance is too tight, use bearings that have .001" extra clearance, perfect bearing clearance for small block should be .002" on rods and .0025" on mains.
Thanks Leonard. We were pretty close to that in this build. The clearance is sufficient. The oil pressure spring will relieve at the set point, but if more volume of oil keeps coming, the pressure will still increase. Pumps pump volume, pressure occurs when the flow is restricted. Pressure x Volume is a constant. AG
Awesome video series! Enjoyed and learned something from every video! Thanks
Thanks Andy, your comments motivate me to keep going. AG
great series, I have to make sure I watch all10 vids. Cheers from Calgary.
Cheers back. Calgary is a great town, I have been there many times. AG
Oh! Allen, I forgot to add that I believe I have the right combination to make my car run as good as it does, 60 ft. times are 1.20 et.
That's great, It takes more than just a good engine to do that. Thanks Leonard. AG
I knew it was going to make a good bit of torque from down low!! I could hear it in the other short!! This is not bad at all!
Thanks for your comments Paul. AG
Very interesting. Good to see also what bad leak down test can produce.
Maybe some of the leak down is due to the rings not being broke in?
But I know from experience that one can get bad valve job even from an experienced machinist.
In my case the seats cut beautifully but he was off by maybe a degree on the valve lean. So it looks fine but when shining a light in the port its obvious that the valve seat is canted in relation to the valve.
He dont normally vacuum test but go by look, sound etc. And in a case like this vacuum would show anything since in would draw the valve shut/sealed.
Might have sealed up fine in the engine but would have worn out the valve guides for sure.
And since one pay for excellence ist whats expected. And the head porter/machinist was dismayed and wanted to fix it.
Everyone can make mistakes. So one need to check and check again it would seem.
Thanks for your valued comments as always Magnus. We were curious also, now we know!
Yes, things happen and mistakes are made. That is why it is so important to check.
I wonder how many engines are running around with the same issue and the owner is oblivious to it.
From now on I will be doing a leak down test as soon as the heads are installed. AG
After 3 runs on the dyno the power and torque start repeating so that tells us the rings are seated and ready for tuning 👍🏻
Looking forward to the next one.
Thanks Terry. Next is a 400 SBC roller engine. Watch for it. AG
Yep, no way a "500"cfm two-barrel carb is going to make as much power as a 600cfm four-barrel, even if the engine is "claiming" it's only using "500"cfm.
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Thanks Anarchy, the dyno is the best way to find out. AG
Am I missing something here on your price list at 27:01 on the video? I don’t see the new piston and rod price on it. Video #1 you said they ran $540.00 US, just wondering. Thanks
Thanks for your question Justin. The pistons that Mike bought were Hypereutectic. When i measured the piston to cylinder wall clearance it was too much for a Hypereutectic piston so Mike returned them. The original pistons were forged and the clearance was good for forged pistons (.0035" -.004") so Mike cleaned them up and we reused them. We did replace one of the pistons and mounted it on the original rod. Sorry for the confusion. AG
That's a cheap investment for what your doing to get the power you are happy with. If I build an engine for someone I tell them approximate how much HP they can expect out of it. It all depends on what parts are put in it. There is a few variables... My BBC is a 468" engine, strictly a race car engine. 12.3 comp. Solid roller cam, SV1 carb, 1150cfm, BB-2 Brodix heads, 310 cc. Single carb one barrel. The parts are new, but they are over 30 yrs. old. Makes good HP, 800+. It makes 1.7 HP per cubic inch. It's fast for what it is. 66 Chevelle tune chassis and is light, 2,370 lbs. with driver. 5.40's et. in 1/8 th mile at over 125mph. And 8.60's et at 155mph in the 1/4 mile. I have a big engine Iam building that puts out around 1,300 HP on alcohol methenal, with 15:.1 compression with flattop Pistons. Power range on cam is 4,000-8,500 rpm.
Thanks Leonard. You are living in a different world from me, making big power. 8.60 1/4 mile ET would be a fun ride. Thanks for sharing. AG
Great video though! I love it when people do real diy builds! Builds using oem iron heads are much more interesting to me becouse thats my caliber. Thats what i relate to because thats what my builds are like. This is the best! The only way it would have been more relatable for me is if it was the same, but with a ford FE. Thats what im workiin with in my shop.
Thanks Jesse, I would do a Ford if someone brings it to me. AG
Awesome content. Thanks everybody
Thanks for watching and commenting Randy. AG
Not bad, good work guys, should be a really nice street engine.👍
Thanks Mark. We will fix the exhaust valves and make it better. Mike will have a nice engine for his Monte Carlo. AG
9 months later you're lucky to find a shortblock for 1600
Good point. Thanks for commenting.AG
Good enough to burn some tires and have some fun with around town, especially if hooked up to a 4 speed!
Thanks Doc. It will be even better after we fix it. AG
Nice video guys, thanks!
Our pleasure, thanks for watching and commenting. AG
Hope you do a video on what got messed up on the heads, makes you wonder just how good the whole valve job was, could be power in getting some decent seats and angles cut, back cut intake valves ?
Reduce exhaust duration to make more power, that'd be a first, fuel out the exhaust, well yer, the exhaust valves aren't sealing.
You are right on Tom. We will do a follow up with lessons learned. AG
What does the engine sound like while it is cranking, can you hear cylinders low on pressure when you get the valves sealed up you might try 1.6 rockers, but only on the intake side. I've usually found a substantial gain on the average.
Thanks David. It sounds fine, so evidence of anything wrong. We will do another leak down and compression test when I get the engine back here and fix whatever is wrong. 1.6 on the intake only makes sense. AG
My guess on the 2 barrel was 30hp and 20tq down. Strange it lost more torque than horsepower. I've seen 550+hp 355s lose 70+hp with a 2 barrel. Should have tried a 750 doublepumper and a 750 3310 vacuum secondary carb also. Might have picked up a few numbers. 350 LT-1 came stock with a 780 vacuum secondary 4150 carb. They were rated at 360hp in the Z-28 & 370hp in the Vette. They actually made in the 350+hp range bone stock on a dyno with headers.
I was thinking about that as well. Richard Holder did some tests on some of the factory muscle engines & his tests showed some of them didn't quite live up to their claim but in those days nobody probably ever knew! A factory 327 that made 350hp is no slouch back then! They may have claimed to be 375 & not really had it but nobody would have doubted them! 350hp would have ran amazing!!
@@jesseduke694 yep, 1 horse per cube is respectable. Those engines responded to modifications pretty easy tho, wasent hard to pull another 100hp out of them. NHRA legal "Stock" LT-1 350s make over 500+hp and run 10s in the 1/4. NHRA Superstock 350hp L-79 327s are well over 600hp these days. Same with the Superstock 350s. They have potential. A stock engine is really just a core. GM definitely didn't have them maxed out. But they had warranties and were expected to rack up hundreds of thousands of miles. Manufacturers would give them a soft tune for the consumers. But they all had untapped power just waiting to be released. GM probably got those 360 and 370hp ratings for the LT-1 with a sharply tuned blueprinted version of the engine on a dyno with no accessories. Pontiac often underrated their muscle car engines. A RAM AIR 4 400 makes alot more than 370hp. They smoked Hemi Cudas and LS-6 454 Chevelles back in the day.
@@jesseduke694 I went to a pure stock musclecar shootout in Memphis Tennessee back in the late 80s, out of a couple hundred of the best factory musclecars ever built, a 68 Firebird with a RAM AIR 2 400 Pontiac engine beat them all. 3 yrs in a row actually. Same guy, name was Jim Mino. I think that firebird was running high 11s@120+mph on stock red line tires. There waa a 69 Super Bee with a 440 six pack also in the high 11s, it came in second place. Those cars were running under alot of rules and limitations. Engines totally stock. Tires were terrible.
Thanks both Jesse and Reluctant for your comments and adding interest to my channel. Always appreciated. AG
I have been following along while I build my 350. Is it possible to turn the engine by hand and check lifter rotation? Maybe a video. Thanks
Sure, I can do that. Thanks for the suggestion RH.AG
Great budget 350 build thanks a ton. This is great.
Thanks Dennis
Nice❤ what camshaft you are using this engine?
Mike, can you please put up the camshaft details for me. Thanks AG
There was a day not so far in the past 1 HP per CI was a respectable number... Regardless of it not hitting the goal with today's UA-cam ant boosted everything so many young folks think you need a minimum of 600hp to have a "fast" vehical but in reality with good gears, decent chassis on the lighter side like a Camaro, nova, g body s-10 and well sorted transmission setup 350hp/400ftbs will give you a pretty rowdy ride, it's plenty of power to blaze the tires off , and a lively 0 to 60. Look at how legendary the old 5.0 mustang GTs were everyone thought they were one of the hottest things on the street well they were in the low 3000lb area and had 225 net HP! Gross was 260ish I think that's almost a 100hp less than this engine. And people were dipping into the 13s with the top form of the fox mustang GTs. No your not going to hang with hellcats on the turnpike but who cares. The only thing I would have done differently with this engine is I would have gone a bit larger on the cam like something in the 230° area and .480" lift I would stick with DV's ICL rule of thumb, and I would have gone with a better intake basically a high rise dual plane, the EPS is like a factory replacement type like the standard performer. At least go the performer rpm standard or air gap doesn't matter air gap if there's a couple extra bucks available, with those there's no real loss down low and noticable gains up top on most every warmed over engine. But hey that's just me I'm not saying anything was wrong per se it's just what I would do. And with an engine like this if built right would go for years reliably you could easily daily it and get half way decent fuel economy like mid teens if tuned right. If you want a cool daily commuter that is actually pretty fast feeling this is a great engine setup.
Lots of good info here, thanks for taking the time to provide your input.AG
@@goldsgarage8236 don't take it as I'm 2nd guessing your choices you made your choices for a reason I'm Shure your combo would be a solid very drivable combo making a lot of usable instant torque, I'm just willing to give up a small amount of practicality for a bit more plus I always try to make choices of compromise like some drivability for a roudy idle but gaining more power that's not a guarantee, howards flat tappet 112831-08 .480"/480" 231°/231° 106 centerline 108 lsa is an awesome street camshaft. I don't want to seem like a keyboard critic there's to many of those already.
I wouldn't be ashamed of 400lbs of torque from a stock 350. I'd be happy as a pig in slop with the money for power results. Yes, 1000hp is nice but, how long will it live ondy street and how much does it cost. A torquestorm blower would be nice tho
Thanks Blown572. Mike has decided to replace the heads. I have a pair of GM Performance Fast Burn heads that we will be installing. Watch for a follow up. AG
Can you share the part numbers for each product you bought for this build please? I'm currently in the same boat with similar budget and would like to go this route. I would really appreciate it! I saw your first episode of this series where you put the sheet but it didnt have the part numbers listed.
Thanks for the question. I talked to Mike about this today as it was his engine. Mike will try to come up with some part numbers for you. Be patient and watch this post. Good luck with your build. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 awesome! Thank you!
Just made a pull (what were the numbers?)how can we tel WHAT your increases if you don't tell.
all the numbers are provided in detail in the video. AG
Good evening great job on the build I also am doing the same motor and have been trying to find your list of parts you used. I have the same pistons, hardened tappets, and would like to copy what you did mine is a Dec 1969 build 4 bolt main CRE any way, were could I find your build list I have all the parts except the cam Thank you for putting up the videos
Thanks Richard. We will work on making a list of parts for you and put a screen shot up in a future video. AG
00256 Crower camshaft
Good afternoon Thank you @@mkimble21
Bought a 92 bbc with peanut ports spun it over till we hit compression it sat a few more day went to turn it over again and it still had good compression
thanks for the info Gavin. AG
That’s cool thanks man !!
Thanks Bill. AG
Great bang for the buck with iron heads.
At what rpm did the 2bbl carb start to loose power over the 4bbl?
Thanks for the question 488. I don't recall but Mike has the dyno sheets. Can you help us Mike? AG
What is a good fuel to air ratio number?
Thanks for the question Steve. Usually about 13:1 under load at RPM. We pay more attention to BSFC, Brake Specific Fuel Consumption. Pounds of fuel per HP hour. It is a measure of the efficiency of the engine. AG
I dont remember? Did u guys build the heads urself? I guess im wondering why the exhoust valves were leaking? It happens i know. But did u have a shop cut the seats or did u guys do them urself with stones?
Thanks Jesse, kind of a combination of all the above. We will do a follow up video of the tear down and inspection, with lessons learned and recommendations. AG
You will probably see less leak down now that the motor has been run. Curious to see.
Thanks ZMAN. correct, we will do a follow up leak down and compression test video. AG
Great work.....
Thanks Kermets. Please keep watching and commenting. AG
Nice test but a little disappointing on power .... Dyno cell did not look like it has a lot of exhaust room but a muffler might have helped and I assume the engine will be run with full exhaust system in the car..... If you do pull the heads look for fuel wash in the chamber .... With unknown port work that funny low rpm dip you got could be from fuel dropout .... With that camshaft and what you saw at peak a 1.5 rocker on the exhaust side only would probably help ..... Also flow cfm on the hat is not the same cfm as a carb measured with a pressure drop though your carb size should be ok ... Did you run a spacer? 1 inch open might help peak
Thanks for good technical input as usual Scott. AG
Thank you for your input, the dyno has dual 8” exhaust running out to an underground muffler and has train locomotive air cleaners, so there’s no restriction on the intake or exhaust. 👍🏻
@@DarrellWatters you missed my point ..... I understand how it's setup ..that has nothing to do with how the engine runs because it's designed to be no restriction .... My point was that adding a muffler or even full exhaust to the engine will change how it runs and in this case you are thinking it's over scavenging ...now this can happen with a tuned open exhaust but not so much with a full exhaust system and muffler ... Because we do mostly street driven engines we tend to Dyno with a full exhaust system in place but our Dyno cell is designed with extra room so we can do that and test different exhaust systems
@@scotthatch4548 oh most definitely it will affect everything if a full exhaust system is hooked up, I unfortunately don’t have the room for that, most unhook the exhaust or have dumps for racing which will take advantage of the dyno tune. Thank you for your input.
I would like to see the same sort of build on a 351 cleveland as a comparison to a 350 chev
Thanks Griff. I would like to do a 351, I just need a customer for it. AG
There is more power in that engine, if you balance fuel A and fuel B. Your dyno guy should know that. Tune the carb so Fuel A and Fuel B read the same, you will be amazed at the power gains.
Thanks Racer. Agreed and we do normally pay attention to that and jet accordingly. We will highlight that in the next Dyno test. AG
No new bore, no new pistons, what does anyone expect. If most of the problem is with leaky valves that is much easier than taking apart the whole motor. I have just had a nightmare with a motor that idles smooth but as soon as load backfires. I now know inside out a Quadrajet. The problem was bad wires that are not old and 8.5mm, When I put the ohm meter to them I found dead wires. It is all logic and taking analysis one thing at a time in the elimination process when you do not know what the problem really is.
Thanks for sharing your experience George. I was taught to check wires with an Ohm meter when I was a teenager in a Texaco Garage. 1000 OHM/ft, AG
Allen what lobe centers did you install the cam on?
The cam was degreed in on 104 ICL. We had come prepared to retard it but decided to focus dyno time on tuning instead. AG
Nice work Darrel Watters! Next time make him sit on a chevrolet chair!
Thanks Bill, I will try to remember to bring my Chev chair for the next dyno video. AG
Bill, unfortunately there are no Chevy Stools in my shop, just Dodge and Mopar stools, but nevertheless, every engine leaves my shop making the most power and torque it possibly can with the combination it came with, I sell tuning, not horsepower 😉 I don’t care how much each engine makes, as long as it makes the most it can when it leaves my shop!👍🏻
I will bring my chevy stool for the next dyno day!
That's a Great Deal! Can you build one for me?😊
Thanks John, sure I can but remember there was no labor content on this one. AG
A set of bone yard vortec ported heads would put it close to 400. Casting 906
Vortec heads do work well. We have them on our 602 crate engine and they make great power. AG
relationship to air fuel and making power from perfect 14 to 1 and down vs wasting gas and stinking the parking lot up ?
Thanks for your comment 91. AG
1hp per cu-in on old style iron heads is still respectable.
Thanks Yurimodin. It will be even more after we fix it. AG
Dyno testing is a base to start with Allen...
For sure, but I believe it is the best investment you can make in any build. We are fortunate to have it available at a reasonable cost. AG
To bad we couldnt make those numbers with a ford 302 for $1600…….350hp 5.0 is well over $5k……im a chevy guy myself but my teenage son recently gotta ‘67 mustang 289 coupe…..i picked up a 302 roller motor out of an OJ bronco to build with him for when he is ready to move up from the tired 200hp 289……..im hoping for close to 300hp with the 302…….i tried to convince him to get a GM product cause i have tons of LS stuff on hand but he was set on a ford🤮🤮🤮
Thanks Trent. You can make power with Ford or Mopar too but for $/HP you can't beat a SBC. That is one reason they are so popular. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 facts
30 minutes of talk to get 5 minutes of info
You stuck around.
350hp/400tq is nothing to be ashamed of especially with iron heads.
Thanks Roger, it will be better when we fix the heads. AG
I know it’s costs a lot money but it would be nice to see what engine does with hood leak down. Information sake.
Thanks Gary, that is up to Mike. You are correct, it is expensive. AG
You always get more low end torque with longer collectors...
Correct, but less HP. AG
Why does the budget price change every video 😂
Looking at the dyno sheet VE numbers are wrong ...did you have the wrong engine cid punched into the software? VE on that engine should be in the 80s
Yes all the information was properly inputted, I did a calculated VE for that engine and it came out to 87%, but that’s what the engine can displace, due to ram effect/velocity of small ports, cam selection and exhaust way over scavenging will increase airflow speed which will affect cylinder filling of over 100% and can increase VE. The heads were ported to take advantage of the low lift flow, which the engine sees twice as opposed to max lift flow, which will increase cylinder filling, I do realize there are formulas to calculate these readings, but I’ve seen things on the dyno over the past 30 years that don’t always make sense, but as long as the engine is happy and makes good power, I don’t question it. I’ve had some great local engine builders on my dyno and they are quite happy with the data I provide and tuning as well. Thank you for your comment. Dyno tuning is quite interesting as every engine is different, even if it’s the same build as the last one.👍🏻
Thanks for your reply Darrell, I always rely on your knowledge and experience on the dyno and am never disappointed with the results. AG
You're still making >1 Hp per cube inch so not too bad considering the modest Build Budget.....Wish youall would've Killed a good Leak-Down Cylinder & Measured Power drop & Compared to one of the Bad Leak-Down cylinder to Determine Exactly how Much the Leaking Valve cylinder is Actually Down on Hp if any Significant.....Some Leaking Valve Cylinders produce Amazing Good normal dyno Hp.....As is, the motor seems to be Producing about Average power Results for a Typical DIY garrage Build.....
Thanks Tom. We didn't think to try that but we were curious to see how much the leak down would hurt. I did a leak down test on the worst cylinder half way through the dyno day and it was still over 35%. AG
Would you consider doing a video on the small block chevy 302?
Sure Dak, one of my first builds in 1969 was a 302 which was the original engine in my 68 Z28. The 302 is a great racing engine but needs to rev 7000RPM to make power. For street it need a light car with lots of gear. AG
@@goldsgarage8236Thanks for the response! I have been doing some research on it and it seems like most people run solid lifters. Would you be able to run hydraulic lifters and still make 400-500 hp? I just bought a 68 camaro and I have always loved the z/28 and trans am racing, so I am considering building mine along those lines, but still a street car. I know that engine is not the best for the street and I'm okay with that.
Thanks Dak. I think if I was building a 302 for a 68 Z28 I would use the original and correct solid lifter camshaft. Summit sells knock offs for this cam.
I owned my Z28 in 1969 and back then it was my daily driver. It was fun to drive and I revved it 7000RPM frequently. I drag raced it on the weekends and drove it during the week (with a 4.88:1 gear) with no issues.
The piston speed of a 302 at 7000RPM is the same as a 350 at 6034RPM. You have to rev a 302 to make power and it is difficult to do that with a hydraulic cam.
If you have an M21 transmission I would suggest at least 4.10:1 gear. An M20 transmission actually works better on the street. 2.52 vs 2.2 first gear ratio. My M21 is stored safely in my basement and I use an M20 in the car.
problems with a solid lifter cam are over rated and your Z will be much more authentic with the solid cam.
That is my input for what it is worth. Good luck on your build.
AG
Great info thank you!
@@dak9600imo you would be better off picking up a 350 core and boring and stroking it with 6” rods. Still doesn’t cost a lot and will make much better power and a small block is a small block so your car still going to feel the same weight wise without giving up power and needing to rev to the moon to get best power.
You can get 400 plus HP from a vortec 350, with the correct cam, intake, and headers. Any day of the week. Plenty of information, and videos out there to prove it.
Thanks Dale, Vortec heads work great for sure. AG
While you’re replacing distributer springs you can explain without stopping work.
It took you 3 sentences to say it was Mikes time to say something but he had nothing to say
If you just find it impossible to talk less, find a better editor to cut words and overlap talking with working.
Thats what you get when you go cheap
i don't have a computer to do stuff but i do know what the car weighs and how long of a road it needs to get up to 65mph... 250lbft average between first and second gear 4100lb 160 meters, 350lbft split on first gear and "deceleration torque" 460lbft to stall the motor down from 5k to 2000rpm thru the converter... "things that broke" not always a dyno to know 🥸 nothing but HP calculated on total fuel flow? 360hp for a 4.6 modular ford with 365'000km on it 🤔 "😶🌫...😴🐑" 23 gallons an hour 😵💫 fuel burn in time of the 160 meters corrected for elevation... 92% efficient at sea level. computer just does the same number calculations without a pen and paper "printer" 😅 4300lb to 65mph in 100 yards (HP to other data), the OEM equipment took 370 yards to get up to 65mph and that was ratted 205hp 275lbft. (not too many took physics in school, but one said 8 times the power to go twice "half", not even close to being accurate? hmm)
Thanks Arden, lots to digest here. Looks like you did take Physics in high school. AG
Young buck seems irritated
Thanks Sam. AG
Ok stop talking about leak down. And start dismantling to find why the exhaust valves are leaking.
You may have missed my earlier reply. If you don't enjoy my channel, just stop watching it. AG
I’m falling asleep
Do you think you need to fill time? Is that why you talk so much. Please work on talking less, repeating yourself less, and show us more work. I don’t want to quit watching you but I’m close to as a metaphor breaking up with you. You’re talking our relationship to death.
Good idea, if you are not enjoying my channel, just stop watching it. AG
Oh! Allen, I forgot to add that I believe I have the right combination to make my car run as good as it does, 60 ft. times are 1.20 et.
Thanks Leonard. AG
Thats what you get when you go cheap