How to read trouble codes on 88-95 GM cars and trucks
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- Here is how to read the trouble codes on a 1988 to 1995 General Motors or Chevrolet truck. This probably also works for cars made by General Motors between 1988 and 1995. To read the trouble codes when your check engine light comes on on one of these old cars, you just need to put a paperclip in between two terminals, and then turn the ignition on, and the check engine light will flash the code, which you can interpret to find out what is wrong with your engine. This is a very simple system, but it works well, and it is easy to check as long as you have a manual that tells you what the trouble codes mean. Different models of cars have different sets of trouble codes, so you have to make sure you have the right list of trouble codes for your car. That is how to read the trouble codes on your 1988 to 1995 General Motors Chevrolet car or truck When your check engine light comes on.
Here is where to order a repair manual to help you fix your Chevy truck:
amzn.to/2DucFZH
Quick and straight to the point! Thank you!
You’re welcome. I’m glad I could help.
Still it will be usefull to know and have a video whit the codes
I Absolutely Love Love Love Your Energy ... I Also Wanted To Say Thank You So Very Much For Taking Time Out Of Your Schedule To Make This Video For Us The Public Who Needed It.. It Really Help Me To Understand How To Read For The ABS... Thanks Again Have A Blessed Day 🙃
Thanks
Did this once in my 94 Ford, though the procedure is different. Similar in 93 Cherokee, but all you do is turn key on and off three times lol. It’s crazy how these old cars can communicate with you
Thank you! Fast and easy tip without much talk. Best of luck! 🤝👍
Thank you for providing this valuable information!
Helped me identify malfunctioning egr valve on my '88 4.3 vortex v6.
I bought truck that had new spark plugs and wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, exhaust manifold gaskets (donut"s). I replaced corroded distributor cap.
Don't get a code besides 12 now but engine light comes on at a quite predictable length of running time. Not as much pep or power as there should be. Also will bog down at times and hesitate to varying degrees.
Did you find out what was wrong?
Thank you sir, wonderful video. No fluff just information. So nice.
You are most welcome
THIS SAVED ME A $100!!! THANK YOU SIR!
Damn..that's genius thanks man...have a 89 chevy camper van that runs perfect & the damn light keeps coming on
I was just about to buy a code reader haha
Glad I could help.
Thank you soooooo much man, i wish i could buy u a beer.
You’re welcome.
X2
I'm so glad that i own one
Gracias l got the codes out of my astro 89 👍🏽
Glad I drive an old truck.
John Ratko
Hell yah. Same
Thanks for the help. It has been so long I forgot
Happy to help
You're providing a good service!
I own an 88 chevy pickup v6 vortec that has engine light come on after I drive for a short time. However it will only flash a 12 code.
Wonder why?
Already had to replace egr valve, egr vacuum solenoid, electric spark control module.
I wish new cars were this simple!
Me too.
then they wouldn't be able to charge a diagnosis fee and sell you the wrong parts to fix your car.
SES light is on my 93 1500 won’t turn off after shutting truck off. Was told on forum that disconnecting battery and reconnecting it should erase it not sure though
Thanks Great Master
You’re welcome
Muchas gracias carnal 👍
DONT FORGET. SOME CAR LIKE 1994 GRAN AM 3.1 LITERS DOES NOT EQUIP WITH TERMINAL B.
What if the code 12 is the only code shown... I have a caprice classic and sometimes I have to give it gas to start. So I know there is a issue, but the obd scanner wont show nothing but 12.
Thank you very much!
You’re welcome.
thank you this was a big help
You’re welcome. I’m glad I could help.
hoohoohoblin Can you help me?
Thank you
You’re welcome
What if my cars computer is OBD1 but it has a 16 pin port for OBD2?
That means you have an OBD2 vehicle.
No it does not mean you have a obd2. It's the weird inbetween commonly referred to as 1.5
Thanks man
You’re welcome
Thanks
You’re welcome
I appreciate this
Thanks
Thanks
OBD1 is a lot less finicky than OBD2, I remember my 94 Econoline 'clearing' the mass airflow code when the van was turned off, and only illuminated within seconds, and repeated (unplugging the mass airflow was just a cheap fix to a different issue that has since been corrected.). My 92 Camry even had an EGR code come up due to a cracked hose, I trimmed the hose down, and it went away on its own. OBD2 is anal and will illunmate whenever it wants.
I know this is old, but what happens if all this does is make the check engine light blink really fast?
Badass Einstein and cold beer in the lobby 🍺🍺🍺🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙈😎🏁🎅🤶🦌♿
Thanks for the video! Very helpful. Do you know how to clear the codes?
Just diconnect the battery for 2 minutes
1988 c1500 only has 12 trouble code. Any idea what it could be?
Thank you for video. Can you say me where I can find the book of trouble code on pdf?
Do a search for GM trouble codes on the Internet, and you’ll find a whole bunch of people who have posted them.
So I have the same truck. Gm 1500 350 v8. I have code 13 as well but after the 3rd time it flashed 13 it flashes 4 times then 3 times and does that for a while
lol he says 12 means "..heeeyyyyy......" lol :p he kinda went over it, but 12 just means the self test is either starting or ending, so either get ready to read codes or u missed them :p
I got 12 three times 13 three times then 3 quick blinks six times ? Could that be 33?
Thumb up for the cheesy 3D comedy.
Thanks.
My grandpas won’t flash any codes. Just stays solid. Any help?
Mine is not even working. Got some electric Problem I cant figure out. All my 94 GMC is showing is the Glow Plug light and the Battery light. All the other warning lights are not working🤷🏻♂️
Run fuel injection cleaner thru the tank to clean injectors and valves and to prevent false codes.
Thanks
This does much more lubricating than cleaning... if you're getting bad codes off your valves they may need readjusted.
I have a 1994 Chevy I did the same test except I’m confused with one thing. It flashed the 12 three times to start off then flashed me the code but the code I didn’t understand because it flashed twice back to back three times and then went back to 12. I don’t get it is that supposed to be code 21?
My 93 chevy just did 12. Then 12. Nothing else. Tried a few times and even disconnected battery and tried again. Just 12 and 12
i got a long then 5 short, indicating speed fluctuation..& my speed sensor is on tilt, though I drove 800 miles no problem, no lights
now I get intermittent poor braking & slight stick
My 1995 Chevy S10 has a 16 pin connector and this doesn't work. Any help would be appreciated.
You probably need an OBD2 code reader.
@R Diaz , yes. Mine looks like that and I have a 1994 Buick Le sabre. I think they call that connector a 16 pin DLC, which I guess is also a OBD-II connector? When I looked up several brands of OBD-11 code testers, they say they work on 1996 and newer. Mine is a 1994. The connector end should be comfortable(since it is a OBD-II), Im just wondering if the tester will be, since it says "1996 and newer"?
@R Diaz , why not if the connector end is correct?
Hi @R Diaz, what would you recommend? I'm just trying to find a way to test the code on my 1994 Buick Lesabre. Im wondering since mine has a 16 pin OBD-2 connector, maybe it has the 1995 California standard, possibly since it was built later in the year of 1994 they used the1995 standard on this 1994 car. Arent the 12 pin OBD1 connectors common for 1994 cars?
tHATS IT?? i DONT HAVE TO DO THAT WITH MY JEEP......JUST TURN THE KEY SWITCH ON 3X'S AND IT DOES THAT! BUT IT STILL WONT GIVE YOU AS MUCH INFO AS A AFTER 1995 VEHICLE DOES WITH SCAN OPTIONS.
That’s all there is to it. Newer cars are definitely much better if you have a code reader.
I know this is going to be a late comment but I got the exact same code problem and I checked it myself and it flashes the same thing yours does
See everyone Wednesday night good luck
holy wtf had no fucken idea how to check this and i had been doing shit old school . replaced fuel pump . iacv . spark plugs . spark plug wires . rotor n cap . ignition ckntrol module.
I have a 95 beretta. This does not work. Instead of the two connections on the upper right corner of the plug, mine are the upper and lower two connections on the right. It is either A and M or B and M. Any ideas?
Badass
Just because you get oxygen sensor codes don't mean it's the oxygen sensor. It means the oxygen sensor is too rich or too lean. Replace the CTS or parts controlling fuel. High fuel pressure can cause rich mixtures.
13 is oxygen sensor circuit open. 44 is lean mixture and 45 is rich mixture.
@@AnglinTexas
What should be the first thing to check if it is code 45, oxygen sensor, rich? If it isn't the oxygen sensor itself, with the sensor be outputting the proper voltage of between .1 and 1 volt?
Going to do on my 95 k2500. Runs super good cold no light but once warmed up throws light and runs horrible!
I'm just guessing. Was it the map sensor?
Same behavior as my '93 k1500 5.7. Was the Mapp sensor.
Tried on my 93 chevy van. I get the one Blink then 2 blinks. Then I get the same. 1 blink and 2 blinks. Nothing in between. Damn it that doesn't tell me anything? Or does that mean "no rpm signal received "?
My 88 buick Electra PA doesn't even have those pins populated... Is the pinout different between GM models or is mine just wonky?
Well l had code 13 and 83. Funny thing is l fixed 13 and since havent seen code 83 again weird. Any ideas? My truck is a 1994 z71.
Code was probably related and fixing the code 13 problem cleared the other.
@@josephcowee6388 i have a code 32 now which is egr solenoid. I replaced it cleared the code and the stupid light came back on. So i bought another one thinking it was bad, nope. Grrrr
@@tacoman864 clean out the EGR port in the intake manifold. Take a coat hanger and push all the carbon an crud out via the hole the EGR valve connects too. I guarantee its plugged I've had it happen on several vehicles
@@josephcowee6388 ok ill do that today thanks bud for the advice
@@josephcowee6388 I’ve heard this as well
1994 Dodge B-250 , 5.2 , this is a van I have completely gone through engine rebuild blue printed all new sensors OEM parts . All the sensors are working new ECM. Here is the issue. With the engine completely cold, turn the key to the on position the IAC opens way up (Setting itself up for a fast cold idle ) soon as you start the van the AIC closes to a slow idle position, and stays that way when the vehicle is fully warm, then runs great I just don’t have a cold fast idle. I believe something is happening during the cranking cycle what would cause this ? ( Engine was hooked up to a scan tool all sensors working New positive and negative battery cables all ground points cleaned off new 880 cold cranking amp Northstar battery , this is my personal vehicle it is my back up handicap van I’ve had it since brand new so it’s worth making everything work perfect , no wires have ever been cut ,11.35 cranking volts at the battery. I do have a plug in the EGR valve as I don’t like exhaust in my intake. DTCs are : 12 , 37 , 32 , 32 ( The blinking check engine light gave me a code 32 twice ) ( Engine almost acts like from key on position to actually starting engine going straight to “ Close loop mode “ ).
I don’t know what would cause that. My truck idles really rough for the first minute or two, and then runs fine after that. I bet the same thing is happening to me. I wonder if it’s the ECU computer.
hoohoohoblin , I have been chasing this problem for 9 years ! I have read the computer looks at the starter relay during start up I’m actually going to change that part today and see what happens if I find the fix I will let you know but yeah sounds like your truck is doing the same thing as my van.... Im pretty sure it’s not in the ECM ... do you years back I bought a new performance ECM , Had my original one all rebuilt.. and have thrown two or three other ECMs at it...
I put a new starter relay in today it did nothing for the problem. Still very slow lopy idle cold start up
Just cut in a switch. When you flip the switch, IAC opens up with correct voltage (5V or 12V most likely), then when you switch back, returns to PCM controlled circuit. That will be good for your computer LOL
When I try this the engine service light doesn't come on. When I turn the key to the run position it turns on and then immediately switches off. Also if the engine is running the engine service light is constantly flashing. I have a wire on the two spots that you showed in the video. Do you have any suggestions? Also the low coolant light came on after I did this but it's just a solid light. I have a 1995 Buick Roadmaster Estate if that helps.
Edit: I found the coolant leak so the coolant light had nothing to do with it lol I guess it was just a coincidence
Could anybody make sense of how he got those numbers from the light flashing on and off?
Dan inWY google
No shit he lost me with that BS
Seriously guys? One flash followed by a long pause and then two flashes = 12
One flash followed by a long pause and then three flashes = 13
Pay close attention. When it flashed the code for 12, there were three flashes. It was flash ...pause... flash flash. You have to pay attention to the length of time between the flashes
@@Bankable2790 Hey, great advice. I'll try that next time. Thanks.
What about a caddilac Fleetwood
I have Buick LeSabre.. 03
That is OBD-II. You can just go to Autozone or O'Reilly's for a free check.
@@kaohsiung99 thanks muffler fell down they said the medal to keep it off the ground rusted out
When I turn key the first time, my check engine light doesn’t come on, is that normal? I thought all lights were supposed to come on when key is turned?
It could be burned out or removed
Codes sometimes depend on the year and engine of the vehicle.
That is true. You can usually find them posted in a forum somewhere online, or in an aftermarket repair manual
hoohoohoblin A code tester like a Actron CP9690 works on OBDI Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and 2 Toyota. It does live, graphing, record, smog readiness test, oil light reset, it has code connect for diagnosing codes. It comes in a black pouch with instructions. It works on cars 1983-2013. On OBDI Fords, if you get vacuum at the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve. If you get oxygen sensor running rich, replace the MAP sensor. It could be the CTS or high fuel pressure. The CTS can read low and cause high idle. Electric fans might not come on. The CTS can read high and cause no fast idle and electric fans keep running. The tester can bypass the CTS to check the coolent relay and fans. After each repair, run the engine at 2000 RPM's for 2 minutes and test codes. Otherwise you can get false codes. The tester can erase memory codes. It check ABS.
BUENO !
Thanks
My break light is doing that 8 short 1 long
What if it just keeps flashing 12?
Then you don’t have any trouble codes. It flashes 12 to let you know that it’s working, but 12 doesn’t mean there’s anything wrong. It will flash 12, then flash all of the trouble code numbers, and then flash 12 when it’s done telling you all the numbers.
hoohoohoblin it flashes 12 and 22 and I have a 1994 Silverado mark 3, which kinda makes sense bc it’s asking me for a new distributor and a new throttle position sensor/ throttle body
I have an OBD 1 AND and OBD 2 code reader but I have a 1998 chev 1500 that has NO computer and NO pinout for any reader. How can you figure out why the check engine light is on????????
Lol good question I have an 85 suburban same man 😂 like wtf is this light connected to? It’s connected to nonessential emissions equipment. You can disconnect it for sure.
Does it store codes? I have an intermittent check engine on a '90 that I'd be interested to read even though I'll probably not fix, because if it's serious the $400 winter beater is toast and if it's not serious I don't care :P
It stores codes as long as the light is on. Most of the codes are probably the same as the ones I listed in the comments on the video.
Lol nice logic.
can anyone tell why my 1993 Camaro fan comes on when I do this? having a misfire and can't get the codes.
some B body and F body(Camaro, fire bird) you can only read with scanner only not this method
what if it stays on
You’re not doing it correctly it will start right away. Unplug the jumper, make sure it’s in the correct spot and reinsert. Turn the key to “on” position right away
Doesn't work with 3-wire '95 century obd1.
Any idea why light would just flash constantly when jumped? It's not pausing. Just a constant flashing.
I don’t know. I’ve never seen that. Are you sure you have the jumpers on the right terminals?
Only time I've seen that is if the vehicle is started while the jumper is connected
Chevy suberban 1995 code 13 and code 73
P0073 is a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) for "Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High input".
13 - Oxygen sensor circuit open or no activity. On V-type engines with two O2 sensors, code 13 would indicate the left bank sensor.
which might cause the wrong code 73,take care O2 sensor first,clear the codes,see if it comes back
Jumperd the connector and no flashy :'(
How to make it flash
My 93 g30 only flashing code 13 1 time
Doesn't work on a 95 z28 Camaro.
Can you please tell me how to get the codes from my 99 GMC Yukon?
On a newer truck like yours, you will need an OBD2 code reader. You can buy them on Amazon or eBay.
Best one that I found that works great is a u scan Bluetooth one I have one and I have over a 1000$$ snap on one that dose everything that my u scan one dose but my snap on one can read the air bag light
@@deerchaser7395 My $80 reader reads everything including the airbags. Congrats you spent $920 for a brand name
I have a manual 350 ss and it continues to ask me to shift when i insert the paper clip what does that mean?
I’m not sure. Maybe it wants you to push down the clutch. Or maybe It wants you to put it in neutral.
I seem to recall a specific procedure with something to do with shifting as a part of getting the codes. The tranny could be connected to the PCM for things like no-start condition when in gear, reverse lights when in R, tranny temp, speedo detection, etc
Can you do it if the light is off? Itll turn off and on
If the light is off, it means there aren’t any trouble codes to report. So it has to be on to tell you that you need to check it.
So what if the light only comes on periodically then goes off after you turn the car off.
Which 2 are they. A and B? Uh duh b and c d and e
What if my dash isnt coming on
Maybe you have the jumpers in the wrong spots.
Casey Graham The bulb may be burnt out. When you switch on the ignition, the light should come on.
Someone also could have removed the light.
So does this only apply to OBD I, or does this work with OBD 1.5 as well?
I think with the OBD two it’s integrated with the check engine stuff.
OBD 1.5??
I don't believe this works with obd1.5
Fof those that don't know, obd1.5 is an unofficial term for some GM vehicles from 1994-1995 that used an OBD1 computer but had a 16 pin aldl cable similar to obd2 but with different pinouts. They also used programmable PCMs rather than replaceable chips.
@@peterdennis7786
Wow did not know that
My 1994 Chevy s10 makes long pauses
94 s10s are trash
Truck won’t start and apparently I have no codes on the thing
Maybe computer is gone. Check connections. Computer is not that smart tho
@@Bankable2790 blew the cam
@@connorhauss6044 damn what happened
@@Bankable2790 just driving one night and it died didnt make a sound. Took me a week to figure out what it was.The end of the cam snapped and blew into the transmission
ok guys i need help when i did this it still read 12 i waited for the first 3 #12 to flash but when it came to the 4,5,6 it still flashed #12 afterwards. help guys thanks.
Lester S - That means it doesn't have any codes to tell -
@@billstonesmith9231 thanks bill i got the problem fixed it between the timing and the spark plug wire's. It took care of the issue.the issue is now regist. Due virus i have to wait...
I wonder if I can do that with my 1997 GMC Ciara C 3500 pickup truck it looks like the inside of my truck except slightly different on passenger side Dash
They changed it to use OBD two scanner input for diagnostics in 1996, so you would need an OBD two scanner.
@@hoohoohoblin yes I'm located one at AutoZone for $199 Christmas sale price it's OBO 1 but they said easily convertible to obo2. They also have a code reader for $79 and another one for $100 I'm not sure what it is capable of. I just got the Haynes manual for my truck I asked him for the correct book. Hopefully I can read this.. May be a mechanic coming Christmas day to look at my truck who is also someone else's mechanic. What a fiasco all those new parts.. nothing. I had the worst ground in the world on my battery and a couple of other grounds that I found bad. I've got to find them all. It may have caused my old computer to lose its programming. that was before I cleaned ground connections that I got rid of of the old one..
My battery under back seat
👏👏👏
+SRP of BMX Thanks.
1991
Mine kept repeating 12. Help plz
12 means there aren’t any trouble codes. It flashes 12 before and after all other trouble codes, but if all you see is 12, then that means there aren’t any trouble codes.
hoohoohoblin Thank you! Maybe my fuel line just needs treatment? It keeps dying while running
@@hoohoohoblin the thing is that the service engine soon light is on and I'd like to figure out what's up with it.
Did you figure it out?
3d 😂😂
This is asinine
The only code is 12
What does that tell me
Code 12 is all it gives me
Mine flashes so much quicker and I can’t understand it
Thanks buddy!
You’re welcome.
1994 Dodge B-250 , 5.2 , this is a van I have completely gone through engine rebuild blue printed all new sensors OEM parts . All the sensors are working new ECM. Here is the issue. With the engine completely cold, turn the key to the on position the IAC opens way up (Setting itself up for a fast cold idle ) soon as you start the van the AIC closes to a slow idle position, and stays that way when the vehicle is fully warm, then runs great I just don’t have a cold fast idle. I believe something is happening during the cranking cycle what would cause this ? ( Engine was hooked up to a scan tool all sensors working New positive and negative battery cables all ground points cleaned off new 880 cold cranking amp Northstar battery , this is my personal vehicle it is my back up handicap van I’ve had it since brand new so it’s worth making everything work perfect , no wires have ever been cut ,11.35 cranking volts at the battery. DTCs are : 12 , 32 , 32 ( The blinking check engine light gave me a code 32 twice ) ( Engine almost acts like from key on position to actually starting engine going straight to “ Close loop mode “ ).
That’s really strange. My truck always runs really rough for the first minute or two and then is fine after that. I wonder if this is happening to me too. I haven’t bothered to look into it because it always runs perfectly once it’s warmed up. And it passes emissions just fine. On my truck, I replaced the ECU computer and Chip, and it still happens.
hoohoohoblin : from what I read on the Internet this happens to a lot of these 1500 trucks and vans when they get older and nobody knows the answer to this problem... like I said it’s happeningWhen the engine is cranked over to start and is first running the idle control motor is going back to a slow idle position.. My engine runs great too after it’s all warmed up doesn’t do it anymore throughout the day till the next morning.. I really miss the fast idle when the vehicle was new...
Have a 1995 Chev C1500 Code read 13 three times and then I got a further flashing of 4 six times. Then it went back to code 12 three times. Can you help me out here. Thanks
12 means you are in diagnostic mode. 13 means oxygen sensor. There is no 4. If it was 44, that means lean exhaust.
Thank you for your feedback
Flashing 4 six times (44 three times) indicates Lean Exhaust