Note: Air powered die grinders are used extensively by industry/crash repair shops as they are safer, extremely hard working, tough, self cooling and compact. The downside is they are very noisy and cost significantly more to run (you need a large compressed air supply). For home use, electric die grinders are a good cheap alternative, but can be easily overheated, as shown in the video. I had no hesitation buying another Hilda as it is a super useful power tool and would be a serious loss to the workshop. Cheers Rob
Thanks for sharing your stuff Rob. Your full of new ideas and tips. Man after my own heart. Don't chuck anything out as improvisation is a virtue. Thank you.
I saw your Dawn vice, these were sold in NZ and were popular good quality unit, the motor spares firm I worked for in 60s & 70s sold these but some reason after a take over we then had Record vices, good luck with the furnace! Cheers from Christchurch NZ.
Hi Alan, the Dawn vise in that size is great. A while back I bought a new Record vise cheap and on sold it. Nice vise but not as robust as the equivalent Dawn IMHO. Still a lot better than those hollow Chinese cheapies you see around the place. Cheers Rob
Rob, a cheap 4 in angle grinder with a cut off wheel would make short work of that job. I have several with different wheels and couldn’t do without them. Good luck with your project.
Sorry to hear about the Hilda Rob. They are great tools, mines been extremely useful and not expensive either. I would have thought that a conventional angle grinder with a cutting disc would have been a better bet on that compressor tank? Looking forward to seeing the new furnace come together. Cheers, Alan.
Hi Alan, I was trying to reduce mess in the workshop, which it did, but over stressed the HILDA. I will use the air die grinder next time. I get so used to using the Hilda that I tend to forget about the alternatives. Cheers Rob
I'm interested to see how you foundry turns out. I just built one from a 9kg lp gas tank (cut using an angle grinder 😉) with a home-made burner and it melts brass great - in fact it's too good! I have a lot of brass from 12g shells, but being thin I found the zinc was burning out before I could get enough melted to form a puddle. I then tried old tap parts (solid stuff) and that worked well. The biggest problem I had was finding a suitable refractory, the ideal stuff is the ceramic wool but it's not easy to find in Adelaide. I ended up digging clay from the garden (first time I've found a use for it!) and mixing it with fine sand and perlite. It took a couple of weeks to gradually dry it and fire it but it worked. Unfortunately some rain blew in on it and started dissolving it!!!!! My next try will be lining it with firebricks and using some of the refractory to bind it together. It should work betterer. All good fun😊.
@@Xynudu Nope, all the links I found were for interstate. Firebricks are pretty easy to get, Littlehampton Bricks make them and they also have a refractory cement of some sort, but it's not cheap. The firebricks can be cut to shape easily enough so I'll try them next, I'm just not sure how to fit them into the lid (my foundry is upright, lid on top).
Too bad about the Hilda, but at least it wasn't an expensive die grinder. Good tip about field windings - probably had a few universal motors die like this on me before (smell is a dead giveway as well).
Armatures tend to get plenty of air flow, but field windings dont - depends on the case design. Plus the plastic cases tend to mask the real temperature. I felt it and thought it was acceptable. First time I've burnt out anything for decades (last one was an angle grinder). Most of my electric tools are ancient and never look like wearing out. Luck of the draw. Cheers Rob
I enjoy your videos because they are brief and to the point, unlike the American videos that drag on endlessly showing the BBQs and watching them get even fatter than they are. BTW, I have the same noise issues as you have. David
Hi Rob, unlucky, but it sounds like you have had decent mileage out of it, and all barring the field windings you now have a full kit of spares for the replacement. Seeing the insides of these old compressor tanks is scary, I have a 30+ year old one I am very reluctant to pressurise, good excuse to buy something newer (and quieter!!). Think I might make a small wood stove out the old one for the workshop. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, my large compressor is 50 years old, but much more heavily built than these cheap Chinese direct drive ones. Interestingly the cheap Chinese tank has a pot metal bung at each end which I surmise is a safety feature to blow out if things go pear shaped. It's highly unlikely that an air tank will rupture unless it's over pressurised. It's much more likely to blow a small hole at one of the rust pits. Household mains water pressure is actually higher than most air compressors are set at (but water does not compress and is inherently safer). Drain the tank regularly and it should be fine. Cheers Rob
Tough luck Rob! I would have used a angle grinder for that job. Doesn't Banggood sell spare parts for Hilda? Anyway, you now have a set of spares, except for the field coils (which, with a bit of patience, can be replaced by hand wound coils). Curious to see how the furnace develops :-)
I'm a bit mad at myself Jose. I felt the unit several times and thought it was within acceptable heat range, but clearly it wasn't. I considered using the angle grinder, but wanted to keep the mess to a minimum as I was working on the bench. I will do the rest outside if weather permits. No spare parts from BG. Cheap and cheerful. Still a good unit to buy. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Thanks for the explanation. Agree, it's not an expensive tool, but still able to withstand a bit of abuse, and that chuck does look good. Cheers!
Bummer about the Hilda, Rob! Thanks for the tips on the field winding & chuck removal. My Hilda still works strong enuff for my needs - only a quickie question as you've had yours apart: The black bell end on mine has a taper on its clamp holding surface closest to the chuck - would it be easy to remove from the armature by just taking off the chuck and slide the bell end (w bearing) off the axle? I'd just toss it into the lathe chuck and turn it cylindrical, which would improve the fit in my tool post Hilda clamp. Good luck with your furnace build! Cheers DIYSwede
Hi Johan, I guess I pushed my luck a bit far with it. Great little unit though and I'd be lost without it. I had a look at exactly what you asked while I had it apart as that slight taper is a bit of a nuisance when clamping it as a TPG. The alloy end /bearing housing must be a press on fit (same as the bearings) and does not easily come off with hand pressure. The bearing has a dust cover as well so I can't see the setup used. There is enough metal in the alloy end housing to machine it parallel and it should be doable, but mounting it could be a bit tricky. I will have a closer look tomorrow and get back to you. The unit is buggered, so if I stuff it up even more it won't matter ;) Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Thanks a million Rob, for checking that out - figured the bearing would've been pressed on. Guess I'll have to grip and center Hilda's chuck in the 4-jaw, and run my version of your tool post drill/mill/ grinder www.homemadetools.net/forum/diyswedes-tpmdgm-flip-flop-toolpostminidriil-mill-grinder-7x14-lathe-82652 while holding and turning the Hilda slooowly by hand to plow away that taper... Ah yes - I won't forget tape over every nook and cranny on the Hilda before milling or grinding away... Cheers! DIYSwede
They do Geoffrey, but doing it hand held won't give a clean edge like a friction disc from my observations. I'm sure Banggood would send me one for review, but it's not something I would use much. I will finish off with the air die grinder as it's clean cutting and accurate. Cheers Rob
Note: Air powered die grinders are used extensively by industry/crash repair shops as they are safer, extremely hard working, tough, self cooling and compact. The downside is they are very noisy and cost significantly more to run (you need a large compressed air supply). For home use, electric die grinders are a good cheap alternative, but can be easily overheated, as shown in the video. I had no hesitation buying another Hilda as it is a super useful power tool and would be a serious loss to the workshop. Cheers Rob
RIP Hilda, I use a mixture of electrical and air Rob, big jobs get the air, small get the dremel
Thanks for sharing your stuff Rob. Your full of new ideas and tips. Man after my own heart. Don't chuck anything out as improvisation is a virtue. Thank you.
You're welcome. Cheers Rob
I saw your Dawn vice, these were sold in NZ and were popular good quality unit, the motor spares firm I worked for in 60s & 70s sold these but some reason after a take over we then had Record vices, good luck with the furnace! Cheers from Christchurch NZ.
Hi Alan, the Dawn vise in that size is great. A while back I bought a new Record vise cheap and on sold it. Nice vise but not as robust as the equivalent Dawn IMHO. Still a lot better than those hollow Chinese cheapies you see around the place. Cheers Rob
Rob, a cheap 4 in angle grinder with a cut off wheel would make short work of that job. I have several with different wheels and couldn’t do without them. Good luck with your project.
I know. I was trying to keep the noise down and make less mess.
Very considerate of you to think of the neighbours. Looking forward to seeing the furnace build.
RIP Hilda, I guess now you have more parts to go into your useful box, Thanks for the vid Rob.
Sorry to hear about the Hilda Rob. They are great tools, mines been extremely useful and not expensive either. I would have thought that a conventional angle grinder with a cutting disc would have been a better bet on that compressor tank? Looking forward to seeing the new furnace come together. Cheers, Alan.
Hi Alan, I was trying to reduce mess in the workshop, which it did, but over stressed the HILDA. I will use the air die grinder next time. I get so used to using the Hilda that I tend to forget about the alternatives. Cheers Rob
Well She lasted a long time Rob , You have made many projects with it ! R.I.P Hilda ..
I had a good run out of it Shawn. It seems pretty well made for the money. They get warm pretty easily. I will be more careful next time. Cheers Rob
I'm interested to see how you foundry turns out. I just built one from a 9kg lp gas tank (cut using an angle grinder 😉) with a home-made burner and it melts brass great - in fact it's too good! I have a lot of brass from 12g shells, but being thin I found the zinc was burning out before I could get enough melted to form a puddle. I then tried old tap parts (solid stuff) and that worked well. The biggest problem I had was finding a suitable refractory, the ideal stuff is the ceramic wool but it's not easy to find in Adelaide. I ended up digging clay from the garden (first time I've found a use for it!) and mixing it with fine sand and perlite. It took a couple of weeks to gradually dry it and fire it but it worked. Unfortunately some rain blew in on it and started dissolving it!!!!! My next try will be lining it with firebricks and using some of the refractory to bind it together. It should work betterer. All good fun😊.
I forgot to add, when the burner is in full flight it roars like a jet engine. The neighbours may find it.......interesting.😁
Hi Richard, I have yet to investigate the refractory cement and ceramic wool aspect. Any contacts you can suggest in Adelaide ? Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Nope, all the links I found were for interstate. Firebricks are pretty easy to get, Littlehampton Bricks make them and they also have a refractory cement of some sort, but it's not cheap. The firebricks can be cut to shape easily enough so I'll try them next, I'm just not sure how to fit them into the lid (my foundry is upright, lid on top).
Too bad about the Hilda, but at least it wasn't an expensive die grinder. Good tip about field windings - probably had a few universal motors die like this on me before (smell is a dead giveway as well).
Armatures tend to get plenty of air flow, but field windings dont - depends on the case design. Plus the plastic cases tend to mask the real temperature. I felt it and thought it was acceptable. First time I've burnt out anything for decades (last one was an angle grinder). Most of my electric tools are ancient and never look like wearing out. Luck of the draw. Cheers Rob
I enjoy your videos because they are brief and to the point, unlike the American videos that drag on endlessly showing the BBQs and watching them get even fatter than they are. BTW, I have the same noise issues as you have.
David
Noise is a big issue in suburbia. Yes, a lot of American videos take forever to get any where ;) Cheers Rob
Thanks for sharing!
Looking forward to seeing this Rob, I've started saving Aluminium turnings and odd ends, and I'm hoping to eventually smelt a bean can puck
Could take a while. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob, unlucky, but it sounds like you have had decent mileage out of it, and all barring the field windings you now have a full kit of spares for the replacement. Seeing the insides of these old compressor tanks is scary, I have a 30+ year old one I am very reluctant to pressurise, good excuse to buy something newer (and quieter!!). Think I might make a small wood stove out the old one for the workshop. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, my large compressor is 50 years old, but much more heavily built than these cheap Chinese direct drive ones. Interestingly the cheap Chinese tank has a pot metal bung at each end which I surmise is a safety feature to blow out if things go pear shaped.
It's highly unlikely that an air tank will rupture unless it's over pressurised. It's much more likely to blow a small hole at one of the rust pits. Household mains water pressure is actually higher than most air compressors are set at (but water does not compress and is inherently safer). Drain the tank regularly and it should be fine. Cheers Rob
you could rewind field windings your self if the rotor is ok.
Did you check the brushes? Blow out all the Black dust well and...Hilda usually supply spare brushes with these units. Go!
Yes, the brushes and commutator are OK. It's the field windings.
Taking a part clean the armature Put new brushes in
Nice to be able to salvage the chuck
I'd just break out the Air Grinder and upset the Neighbours. As long as it's not 3AM you should be right
Or if you don't have air Or enough air for an air grinder Use a 4 and 1/2 inch grinder electric with a skinny wheel
Yes, that's the alternative, but tends to make more mess. Cheers Rob
Tough luck Rob! I would have used a angle grinder for that job. Doesn't Banggood sell spare parts for Hilda? Anyway, you now have a set of spares, except for the field coils (which, with a bit of patience, can be replaced by hand wound coils). Curious to see how the furnace develops :-)
I'm a bit mad at myself Jose. I felt the unit several times and thought it was within acceptable heat range, but clearly it wasn't. I considered using the angle grinder, but wanted to keep the mess to a minimum as I was working on the bench. I will do the rest outside if weather permits. No spare parts from BG. Cheap and cheerful. Still a good unit to buy. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Thanks for the explanation. Agree, it's not an expensive tool, but still able to withstand a bit of abuse, and that chuck does look good. Cheers!
Bummer about the Hilda, Rob! Thanks for the tips on the field winding & chuck removal. My Hilda still works strong enuff for my needs - only a quickie question as you've had yours apart: The black bell end on mine has a taper on its clamp holding surface closest to the chuck - would it be easy to remove from the armature by just taking off the chuck and slide the bell end (w bearing) off the axle? I'd just toss it into the lathe chuck and turn it cylindrical, which would improve the fit in my tool post Hilda clamp. Good luck with your furnace build! Cheers DIYSwede
Hi Johan, I guess I pushed my luck a bit far with it. Great little unit though and I'd be lost without it.
I had a look at exactly what you asked while I had it apart as that slight taper is a bit of a nuisance when clamping it as a TPG. The alloy end /bearing housing must be a press on fit (same as the bearings) and does not easily come off with hand pressure. The bearing has a dust cover as well so I can't see the setup used.
There is enough metal in the alloy end housing to machine it parallel and it should be doable, but mounting it could be a bit tricky. I will have a closer look tomorrow and get back to you. The unit is buggered, so if I stuff it up even more it won't matter ;) Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Thanks a million Rob, for checking that out - figured the bearing would've been pressed on. Guess I'll have to grip and center Hilda's chuck in the 4-jaw, and run my version of your tool post drill/mill/ grinder www.homemadetools.net/forum/diyswedes-tpmdgm-flip-flop-toolpostminidriil-mill-grinder-7x14-lathe-82652 while holding and turning the Hilda slooowly by hand to plow away that taper... Ah yes - I won't forget tape over every nook and cranny on the Hilda before milling or grinding away... Cheers! DIYSwede
Check out my latest video Johan. BTW your HomemadeTools link doesn't work. Cheers Rob
Did you pull the brushes on the grinder? I bet they are super soft and haven't lasted long, I'd be curious to know what actually died in the grinder
Yes, the brushes are worn, as shown in the video. The field windings are burnt.
I was thinking the same thing...burnt field windings though are pretty final.
do banggood have plasma cutters rob.???????????????????????????????????review and mine to keep
They do Geoffrey, but doing it hand held won't give a clean edge like a friction disc from my observations. I'm sure Banggood would send me one for review, but it's not something I would use much. I will finish off with the air die grinder as it's clean cutting and accurate. Cheers Rob
I am buying one of these what’s the best way to clean the terminal
What do you mean ? What terminal ?
@@Xynudu I am talking about the thing that sits in the drill
The solenoid
The comutator ? Use some wet and dry emery paper.
You checked the brushes, surely...
Didn't you watch the video ? LOL
@@Xynudu Yes, but I’m old and senile...
Spoke to Soon You're right you're winding Are out
Normally get a spare set of brushes with these things
They're ot much good if the windings are burnt out.
Chinesium steel
Recycled T-34.