Це відео не доступне.
Перепрошуємо.
Fixing A Husqvarna Mower That A Has Pull Rope That Won't Turn The Engine.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 тра 2022
- Links to products I have in my tool bag.
Compression tester. amzn.to/2NMgeze
Spark PLUG TESTER. amzn.to/3jEcZH3
Inline Spark Checker. amzn.to/3bnXjmA
Feeler Gauge set. amzn.to/3rTsZK6
Chemical bottle. amzn.to/3eWcGVs
Air Filter. amzn.to/2T8qgxu
Above are affiliate links which means we receive a percentage of the revenue made from purchasing products via those links.
Thanks for watching. This mower was in storage for quite some time. After getting it out, I soon realized why they gave it away. The recoil, will not engage the engine, so it won't turn it. Now I have to decide what parts I need to buy to get this working again.
This video is meant as entertainment, always practice safety.
I have one identical to this mower. I've been using it for about three years and I've kept it cleaned well and maintained.and it has been a great mower.
Thank you Steve Everett for sharing
I have that same type of mower for several years now and I really like it. so far I had to replace 1 pulley. I like the AWD for the hilly yard I mow.
thank you Ted Stankanas
I would buy the whole Assembly. 👍🙏👍🙏great video
You and me both!
10:50 had to get the high speed corded drill for this one. Looking forward to you installing the pawl kit. Sometimes you can get away with new pawls (part 281505S) and sometimes you'll need to replace the whole recoil. We will see.
yes I particularly like using that drill for staring stuff. lots of power.
Good video, I usually buy the whole starter assy. as the labor for me to repair the old ones usually is more than just installing a new one, plus the customer has all new parts. Thanks
Great point!
Great video, those Husqvarna all wheel drive mowers are nice, nice work!
Yes they are!
that is a steal! what an amazing mower to come across. lucky
It sure is!
I may be alone but I like the plastic carbs. The pop-out jets are a bit of a pain but they come out easy. Loved the "it's not a race car", around here I say "it's not going into space".. same thing. LOL
you got that right, The plastic carbs do have their merits.
Nice that the carb was sitting up for easy access. That's a nice hidden feature.
Yes it was!
That’s a decent machine. I’d replace the whole assembly and get your money back in the sale.
BTW, and please don’t take this the wrong way, but I used to think you were nuts for washing your equipment with a tooth brush, until a couple of weeks ago I found myself doing just that. You made a believer out of me. It was faster, used less shop towels and did a better job.
Cheers for all your hard work putting these videos together and showing us your common sense approach to small engine repair.
Murph
thank you Ez Ray
The fine bristles on a toothbrush really get into those tight areas!
I just worked on a plastic carb Briggs mower. I think it was a Bolens from Lowes. it wasn't priming at all. Something was plugged up in the carb, and after cleaning, it still wouldn't run. Told the guy, the rebuild kit is $15, and a new carb is $25. He opted for the new carb, I put it on and it fired right up.
I wonder if all of the Husqvarna AWD walk-behind mowers are built that cheaply. Those pulleys will get destroyed being exposed like that. I wonder if other models have a cover over the pulleys? I'd definitely order a whole new recoil assembly. Great video man!
thank you Jacob Feather, some had a plastic cover, but it was still open at the bottom for grass to fall out.
I had 2 of the exact same mowers. 1 had a bent shaft, so I used all the best parts from both to make 1. Sold for $200. Easily. So either way should be able to recover what you spend.
I think you're right, thank you Casey B's Zombie Mowers.
I would just replace the whole thing and keep the broken one for parts. Funny thing, I was supposed to pick up the exact same mower this weekend but the seller flaked out and ghosted me at the last minute. Guess he changed his mind and decided to keep / fix it. Nice machine!
thank you mjg263, and sorry to hear about the bad seller.
Thanks for the video
No problem!
Hey bro what's up? I was waiting for your video here. I don't much about mowers but I think that it should be more cost effective purchasing the whole assembly versus the parts that you need since it is already assembled and just for you to install it.
Great point!
Using the shop-vac to clean parts of the mower was very satisfying
Yes it was!
Great video! I would personally do the cheaper repair and flip the mower. These newer briggs motors with the plastic carbs are getting to be way to cheaply made and they ask to much for new parts usually. But you will make your money back off this mower for sure. AWD and it still looks brand new you can make top notch money off it.
you got that right, they make them cheaper, and sell them at a hight price, not a good business practice, if you want to stay in business.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I almost want to buy as many rebuilt flat head briggs as I can and put those in place of the new motors that are on these machines to make them last longer and have parts wear out less.
Buy the whole assembly, that way you know it’ll work perfectly plus it’ll take just as long as the parts to come in.
my thoughts exactly
Thank you
You're welcome
I agree. Work smarter and not harder. Thanks!
no problem
I would buy the whole assembly . The 550 parts I have bought were pretty cheap . I always remove the carb, it only takes a minute more and it much easier to access everything.
me too , thank you Brian King.
Thank you.
you're welcome and thank you for your time.
Left town in a permanent way...LOL
I've had to replace the recoil unit on my mower several times because the spring snapped each time causing the robe to break as well. When I tried to put a new bend in the spring it snapped again.
Simple answer to your question is when the repairs are greater than the current value of the machine and it would be more prudent to buy a new one that is going to give you good service for years to come. Simply put if the repairs cost more than what use they might give you than scrap it. This is where I am now at with my 2000 Buick Century custom.
Indeed sometimes less is more and saves load of time.
I have always found it to be easier to buy the whole assembly and less involved and less time consuming. Most places simply do this by default.
thank you Patrick Nesbit.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE you are most welcome 🤠!
I enjoy your videos I found those air filters $1.36 each
nice price!
As for the comment about the fuel line being hard to disconnect…you were only a governor and choke arm away from removing the carb and tank together. Then it would have been much easier to service on the bench. I think time-wise you’d be quicker just pulling it than taking the bowl off while it’s on the mower still.
Love the content, keep it coming!
The choke lever and its post, are both cheap plastic and could break, The fuel line is only 3 inches and has hardened over the years. Oh and don't forge the ports they go on, are also cheap plastic which could break, because of the force I'm exerting on the short fuel line. Plastic fantastic, doesn't come close to describing, the chances of breaking someone on theses carbs, and thanks for the comment, I appreciate it.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE do whatever works best for you but I work on these at a shop all the time and never actually broke the plastic linkages when removing. To be fair I’m surprised I haven’t, but they seem to be more durable than you’d initially expect.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE The model year on the engine is 2017 so its only 5 years old as of the time of this writing. I doubt very much the plastic parts including the fuel line are brittle in that short of time. But do as you wish. Cheers.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I don’t pop the plastic parts apart. Once you remove the fasteners from the carb, you can move the carb to the left as you pry the fuel hose from the carb. Once the fuel line is detached, rotate the carb to the right and one linkage easily detaches. Then rotate the bottom of the carb upward towards you and the other one will easily detach. Much easier. On the front cover, if you detach one side, couldn’t you flex the cover to get a better look at the grass buildup under there? Also shouldn’t there be a cover over the belt and pulleys under the deck? That looks like a disaster waiting to happen.
Like I keep saying about delivery time, it does matter and IF you have parts or not.When I swapped the Briggs off the Snapper from a dead Deere my pal with his mower shop had the Deere there and no designs on it and even though the exhaust and intake were opposite of the Briggs, it still can be made to work. And I have a Kawasaki with a Deere sticker on a Snapper. The blade brake eventually made a fine blade adapter. All sorts of mods. Thanks and we all get strange things. GBWYall!
thank you Lewie McNeely
I would inspect the recoil for other damages. If there was no other broken parts, I would have just ordered the few spares. But I do have like2-3 of those recoils, so I would have popped one of my used on, and saved that for parts
ah, very logical approach.
I have a recurring problem with briggs engines that i just can't seem to figure out and was hoping maybe you can offer some insight. This happens with pressures washers, mowers, and other equipment. The problem is they run but they constantly pop pop pop from the exhaust. Adjusting valves doesn't seem to help, can't tell much difference from increasing jet size, and none of them seem to have sheared flywheel keys. Thanks for the videos, I really enjoy them.
Check the flywheel gap
@@eathans_small_engines8665 thanks I will try that.
@@eathans_small_engines8665 it did not help the particular piece of equipment I'm working on but I'm adding this to my list of things to check because I get a lot of these engines that have this problem.
@@donsizemore8746 check your plug gap to becuase that might also do that
On that stile briggs, you can slide the tank upward off its slots & carb out, without disconnecting the fuel line. Take it out as one unit tank/carb/fuel line..
yes you're right, but you also have to remove the top cover.
Very beautiful lawn mower I wish I was lucky enough to find one of those! Hey what ever happened to the little red hyper tough lawn mower that ran with no oil and you sanded the connecting rod on? Do you still have it?
no I sold that about 2 years ago to a coworker, they used it as their primary mower for about a year, before they got a better one, but they still use it as a back up. They say it works great.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE that is incredible! It jogged my memory because I just found a lawn mower on the road that was ran without oil and it turned over very stiff. I put WD40 and some oil in the cylinder and put oil in the engine and it turns freely now. Haven’t had time to see how or if it runs but I think it might!
I always have hard time removing badge cover.
yes it's supposed to be tough, this one happen to be broken.
What I use is a 3 strike system. If I find three things broken on a mower, it’s out. This rule won’t apply if the parts are very low priced however, I also have a maximum budget of 150 dollars per machine. The only time I don’t use that rule is when I am adding a found Tecumseh engine to my collection. I will spend what is needed to fully restore those things.
ah, I didn't know you felt that way about them. Can you share why you feel that way about Tecumsehs? I like to, But I don't go out of my to fix them.
I had the same dilemma with my old trusty Honda (probably 15 years old now). It was way cheaper and easier to just buy the assembly and throw it on.
thank you Michael Wheeler.
Great video on Great subject
Some things to consider when deciding.
How many parts to buy and price.
Including tools.
How long to get parts. This is becoming a real problem.
How fast do you need mower, is it your primary mower, project or a customers.
The time required for repair.
Would your time be better spent.
all very good questions and the answers are also interesting. it's more of an issue of will it work, after replacing just the parts you need? and the answer is there Is no guarantee.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Agreed there are no guarantees in life.
In another life, another field I made decisions of these kinds.
The rule of thumb at shops is that if repairs are half of what cost of new unit don't fix it.
That looks like the same one I saw on fb today I wonder if u live near me
I picked this one up last November, so no it's not the same one.
Honestly it would depend on if the machine was a quality unit. Some companies such as Husqvarna have a homeowner line, mid-range line, and professional range line of their products. If it's even a mid-range product that will last a lifetime of casual use then it's probably worth fixing.
you make a good point William Bray.
Yesterday dad and i got the new clutch for the Husqvarna 252RX when i got the trimmer reassembled and tried starting it the trimmerhead continued to spin, do you think i've missed something or do i need to run it until the trimmerhead stops spinning ? 😄 I'm wondering if the clutch drum is worn out in the meantime 🤔
so the clutch was the whole assembly right, spring included? have you tried to lower the idle speed? also, are you sure, this is the correct part, for the Husqvarna? If the spring is too weak, it will allow the clutch to back contact with the clutch drum, and the trimmer head will always spin.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE yup the new clutch was correct, i haven't tried testing it nowdays due to heavy rain, but i intend on doing it when the rain stops and then adjust the idle, what should i do if it repeats itself ?🤔
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE i also checked the clutch drum's inner diameter which was 69mmØ according to the clutch manual of the Husqvarna 250R which i has the same parts as the 252 but with a few extra parts the 252 doesn't have is not suppose to exceed 70mmØ which didn't happen, i then compared the diameter on the clutch drum to an aftermarket one which has an inner diameter of 68mmØ i'm not sure what the inner diameter on a oem clutch drum is and doesn't tell on the shops which has them 🤔
I strongly recommend that if you are draining the fluids before storage, to only drain the fuel. Keep the oil in the engine
Can I ask why?
are you worried about rust? on the steel parts in the engine?
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE no I’m worried about lack of lubrication and oil not getting to certain places
Hello..My 4 stroke Troybilt trimmer runs great at idle but has reduced power at full throttle. All new fuel lines, filter, carb, new spark plug was installed, valves adjusted, when I changed the carb I noticed the crankcase ventilation port tube had oil in it. I got rid of all the oil and installed new, 3.0 ounces. Still runs bad at full speed, No idea where to go now. Hate to dump it as it does run so nice at idle and is an easy start too.
two things, have you tried running it with not air filter just to check if it does it then, and have you considered there might be a restriction in the exhaust system? the other, is have you tried spinning the trimmer head by hand, to see if the gearbox is not putting a load on the engine.
Checked the muffler screen for obstruction and it was clean. This has a shorty shaft for attachments, it runs the same way with or without an attachment installed. Guess I'll tear the carb apart and see if any thing is blocking the flow. Thanks.
Just purchase a Honda hrx217vyaa and after I used twice, it’s very hard to pull the cord, because it pulls back. Do I need to adjust the valves already??? If so, what’s the gap space???
do me a favor and remove spark plug, close the fuel valve and remove the bolt on the bowl to remove the fuel thats left. then replace the bolt. Pull on the rope a few times, and then replace the plug. now.. tell me if it still pulls back? IF yes, then the valve lash is the issue. Set it to .005" BUT if doesn't pull back, then the flywheel key is sheared.
Let me tell you what I have done so far.
I removed the flywheel cover and inspected the flywheel and flywheel key. Both are ok.
I inspected the valve cover for dents also.
I noticed that when I removed the spark plug the rope gets easier to pull.
Question
0.005 clearance on both valves???
I'd replace the starter assembly. No mucking around with fiddly parts.
you got that right. couldn't have said it better myself.
I always had problems with Husqvarna tools
I had a weed eater, I pulled the cord and motor locked up, never looked at it since
do you ever work on or have thought about working on riding mowers? or is it just gas equipment that is cheap or free? i think there could be a video market if you could work on riders, but i dont think theyre given away very often lol
I have 3 riders, and I just got rid of one. They take up too much room, and are very difficult to film.
Why would my pull cord not retract? Second, my yard guy over filled oil and oil is pouring out of air filter. Ugh... I don't have much knowledge abt small engine repair. It's prob abt 5 yrs old. Do u think small engine repair shop will kill me unnecessary "repairs"? Lastly, what would be the most you'd pay to repair a 5-6 yr old mower that's very similar to one in this vid. Any help is much appreciated.
not much to go on, but I would guess your spring is broken or the Pawls are jammed. I you think there's to much oil, in the engine, tip It over and pout out the oil and put back about 14-16 oz. of oil. I cannot guess, what a shop would suggest, to repair, but it's part of their job, to make sure, they aren't liable for any dangerous situations your mower might pose, to your health.
Was that a bread tie that you used to clear the jet? I save my bread ties for just this purpose.
good eye, yes it yes. I misplaced my spool of wire I normally use.
Super clean unit, so I would certainly say it’s worth the money to get the new paws, or assembly. Really just depends on the cost on which part to purchase. Thanks for the upload 🤘
Totally agree and no problem, thanks for the comment Freedom mowers
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE any time. I really enjoy the videos and format.
Shouldnt there be a cover to shield those pulleys from the grass..is it just missing?
some did have a "Deflector" but not a cover, the reason, is that grass could build up in the cover.
Hi so I have a weed eater fl25c and we got it a new carb new ignition coil and new fuel lines and new spark plug and it has also 101 psi and it doesn’t start what can I do to fix it?
I'm curious why you bought a new coil, that must mean you weren't getting spark before. what did you set the coil air gap to and what did you use, to "set" that gap. Have you confirmed that there is spark, at the plug?
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE when I first got the weed eater there was no spark and now the coil and spark plug are working but for the gap I didn’t use anything I don’t now how to use thoses gap things I’m still learning
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE and I don’t have thoses gap things
My dad has a Husqvarna with a Kohler engine he hasn’t changed the Oilor the air filter in four or five seasons versus myself I do it every season I don’t know why he’s so lazy
that's pretty amazing it's holding up.
i have a mower outside right now that has the exact same engine as this one lol...
the guy took the clips off the handle bar and the filter and filter cover was missing and had really old oil in it and had too much oil in it so relatively cheap fix..30 dollars maybe .i jus tlike fixing them a neat new hobby for myself:)
I understand your hobby. I'm right with you .
I would buy a whole new assembly and put it on and keep the old one for parts
thank you Number One.
i,d look into the parts that are missing first and if you can do a easy simple fix that,s good or just simply replace the recoil assembly etc.
makes sense to me.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE strewth and it,s always good i say to try something simple to begin with and once you know your still having issues then that,s when i would replace it etc.
I would buy the whole thing and keep this incomplete one as a spare part
me too , thank you Mr Merhtin.
Should have two belt guards and watch the rear wheel brging
They go bad and noisy
thanks
What if the pull cord has too much resistance?
then there might be too much oil in the engine. If not then the carb might be leaking gasoline into the engine.
Hello Home garage, I am trying to fix my 22 inch toro FWD mower, and I am expecting the problem to be the carb. Do you know if the Briggs and Stratton engine on mine is the same one on this one?
Look at your carburetor. See if its a metal or plastic carb.
Just look at the front of the engine where it says Briggs and Stratton, the engine should have a tag on it with basic engine info like the model number and CC's. Also make sure if it's a Kohler engine or not, those 22 inch recyclers typically use Kohler engines.
look at your carb, is it metal or black plastic?
I haven’t taken apart the carb yet but from what I see as of right now, it appears the float bowl is metal.
@@playstation-7893 What is your mower doing?
I take the cover off to get grass off.
that would have been the best way.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I have a mower just like itl its missing badge cover and plastic ring around pulleys. Its been back order for three months. They don't sell badge cover by itself. I have to buy entire cover.
Try to swap out the recoil from a another cover.
Get pawls from another recoil if yours is not damaged.
I looked around, but I don't have this particular one, available.
i fix these and sell tehm for profit a small one at that if it costs me 60 or so to fix then its nto worth it to me really i only sell them for 80 ..but still i jus tlike fixing them sense of accomplishment i guess...i have a rmeington and the rocker arm broke off that one i got to work but the arms keep coming loose so sadly i guess im jsut going to use that one for parts..teh thread locker isnt working just keeps getting softened by the oil running through so...idk they dont have the lock option on them newer mower too so oh well but i have 3 others ready to go and be used..so not all that bad.
that's a shame, and thanks for the information
I have seen the whole shroud with recoil for $23
yes I saw them too.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE try the pawls first. If your gonna keep it then get the assembly. Keep the other one. Never now.
That is one of the big flaws with those all-wheel drive Husqvarna 21-inch mowers (I call them Husqvarna Compacts) there's not much of a guard for those pulleys and grass like to get up in there and just fill everything up until the self-propelled doesn't work anymore. There is so many of them that all i had to do was clean out then they're fine again. Poor designing on that part. It also causes premature wear to the belt and pulley
you are absolutely right.
3:20 it's not a mouse nest, it's just poor design, the drive belt pulls all that grass in there
Why would you drain anything I live in North Dakota and I don’t drain any fluids from any of my machines lawnmower tiller snowblower. I use fuel that has zero ethanol and haven’t had a problem I’m in my 50’s now so I’ve been doing this for more than a couple years
because the manual
Pull cord will not pull at all??
engine might be stuck
so so even if the part itself is 40 bucks i think it'd be worth it even to sell it mowers around ehre peopel sell one that doesnt work for 50 bucks and yet they want to pay 50 for one that runs perfect like wtf...but the shape this mower is in probably 100 bucks or more and its back in service saves someone alot of money
for sure, it's been sold already.
The whole assembly
thank you JJ Juarez.
Buy the whole assembly cheaper that way I am thinking I could be wrong
I think I will.
Those pulleys are not protected very well.
not very at all, they were meant to last a very short time.
Auto thumb up.
Assembly
thank you b286guy.
Looks like the pawls and parts are the same or very close to the quantum engines. The pawls are probably the same. The pawls are available on their own aswell in various kits. The pawls have a buch of different numbers 281505, 281505S, 4204 John DeereLG281505S, Kawasaki13165-2092 Stens 150-609. The pawl kit looks just like the Honda and is Briggs #s 281503, 281505, 492333, 692299. Hard to tell without the model type and code but it's very possible those are the parts that will work for very little money
that's what I thought too, but I can't guarantee it.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I have a left for dead Husqvarna with the same engine as that one you have in the video waiting for me to get to it and I have a Quantum mower as well. The second I have time I'll pull the recoils and confirm. I actually may have one of those pawl kits on hand to check with that Husqvarna and see if it matches up.
I say pawls. But if the same price has the assembly I go with assembly but look forward to see the next video on it.
thank you Turningwrenches85
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE your welcome
I would buy the whole assembly because once the pawls get messed up, they are never right again. The pivot tube is plastic and toothpick width. It is easily damaged the damage is not always oblivious. Sometimes they bend after being damaged and the new pawls (or the old ones if found) never work right.
you already knew what the situation was.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE been there, done that, got grease on my t shirt
The parts should be cheaper than the whole recoil. Hard to say with things like Amazon these days, things like whole recoils can be found super cheap. Those parts should be an inexpensive kit in the after market like the other Briggs recoils take. If you send me the model type and code I can look up the aftermarket part numbers for the pawl kits, they should be available from Oregon, Rotary and Stens, I have all three catalogs.
I completely agree with you on the cost aspect..
This is an extremely cheap model Husqvarna mower. As you're disassembling, I'm comparing it to the 775H and I can see that Husqvarna engineered everything down to its absolute flimsy minimum and still be able to function (for a short while). Nothing is made well anymore. Nothing lasts for 15 years anymore. The intent is just to manufacture throw-away junk at top dollar. Investor return is the goal of Husqvarna.
you are correct. Things are at a minimum now.
Hi, first.
Great video!
thank you Leo's
I would get the parts.. should sell for good money
you got that right Mick, thanks for your time.
Fix it IMO
thank you Eathan Richards314.
$25 on ebay
you got it.
My Husky, just like yours, is a high dollar piece of garbage. Is it because I've changed the oil?
The gas cap got knocked off under a bush and broke the tank, so a screw holds the cap on the tank, now.
The AWD is very lacking on an incline after 2 years use.
It will only cold start with a shot of ether.
On bumpy or uneven ground, the agitation makes the engine misfire.
I just learned the newest Honda walk-behinds are also garbage.
Turn it all into garden, screw this mowing crap. :-)