SWA Cable - Steel Wire Armoured
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- Steel Wire Armoured Cable - construction, uses, installing the correct gland, fitting into a metal enclosure, fitting into a plastic enclosure, earth connection.
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I learn more by watching Johns videos than i do in hours at college and on expensive courses... his no nonsense to the point explanations are a great example of how to teach... i wish all tutors could follow this guys example.
Not only is this guy knowledgeable in his field (electrics). But he has also mastered the art of teaching and UA-cam video presentation.
I take my hat off to you sir! much respect 👏🏽
Lovely geezer , he sounds like the 2x speed option on the videos
Big Clive is awesome too.
Excellent tutorial video and put me straight onto the right track for running an outside lighting circuit using 1.5mm 3-core SWA. I gave the hacksaw scoring method a try but found it a tad awkward, especially when standing on top of a ladder! Job was quicker and neater with a standard plumbing pipe cutter and as I have a couple of them didn't cost any extra in new toys.
I will have a look at some of your other vids to pick up more useful tips - hope you're making money from the hard work you're putting in to share your knowledge.
nice video, good to see you using all the correct practice when demonstrating how to connect the cable. the amount of times i see this done wrong, it pisses me off, when i see these installed and the person has decided not to use a ring crimp terminal on the earth tag, just wrap the wire around the screw and tighten it up. you pull on the wire and it just untwists off the screw.
I know someone who uses pop rivet to secure the ring terminal onto the earth tag, no no no. these rivets are mate of aluminium and they corrode very quickly in any type of moister, I measured Zs on a cable like this and got 4 ohms. because the rivet had oxidised and caused loads of white powder between the connection.
and probably my least favorite is when you see the use of a plastic IP gland on swa cable and just taken one strand of the wire armour and put in into a terminal block, very poor. and it really gets on my nerves.
Glanding SWA is one of my favourite jobs, I find it very therapeutic, I could happily do it all day. Great video as always JW.
Great Video. 100% accurate with clear step-by-step instructions.
I'm sure this will help a lot of people out as there is a lot more involved in terminating armoured cable as opposed to other typed of cable like twin and earth etc
And yes we have all seen shocking terminated armoured cable jobs in our time
John, can you do a video about mineral insulated cable?
Very therapeutic videos and & tutorials,, I Salute You :)
Excellent video. I'm an electronics engineer and I've just installed the 'electrics' into an outside building. The only thing I wasn't sure about was terminating the armoured cable. Now I know. Thanks for an excellent, clear, thorough tutorial.
Naturally you had it signed off 😉
Very helpful video from someone who knows what they're talking about... and a dry sense of humour as a bonus. Thank you.
Hi JW. Thank you so much for your videos, they are some of the best on the net. I wondered if you had ever come across a 32mm to 25mm SWA gland reducer. Only that where the 25mm SWA cable is going to come into the consumer unit the factory cut hole is 32mm. I fear that if I cut it myself it will weaken the structure and therefore would prefer to fit a reducer/adapter. Do you know if any such thing exists? Many thanks - please keep making the vids, I love them!
They exist, but are sold for metal conduit rather than SWA. If you search for 'galvanised conduit reducer' you should find them. The reducer will screw directly onto the thread of the SWA gland, leaving you with the 32mm outer thread for the hole in the consumer unit, you will then need a 32mm locknut to secure it in the panel. The 25mm nut supplied with the gland is not used.
JW, fantastic video as always, In fact I shall be be marshalling apprentices to watch some of you media as I believe it is of sadly a higher quality than what they are taught at college.
Of a personal opinion, I particularly enjoy watching your videos of old switchgear and cabling please keep it coming!
Excellent, thorough video. "Now you just strip off the bedding...". That's what I wanted to see you do, safely! Also the standard technique for cutting the boot is to pull it hard on to the end of the cable, and cutting it off where you can see it is slightly deformed. You did that, Blue Peter style, off camera.
Are there any different earthing requirements when connecting SWA to a TNS or TNCS supply at the CU end.
Pointless comment - but George Formby played the Ukelele, not a banjo!
If you have a long run of armoured cable, does the electrical resistance of the galvanised steel wires compromise their ability to transfer current to earth?
Hi John,
Seasons Greetings. And thanks for such high quality videos.
Just a question if I may, regarding sleeving:
You stated that if using three core 3-phase coloured SWA you’d use the black as earth and grey as neutral, all with the appropriate sleeving. Does it matter which you use for earth or neutral? Is there a reg or standard somewhere that states which is to be appropriated for what? Or is it simply just the case of ensuring you have sleeved it appropriately for its intended use?
Reason being is I typically use it the other way: black for neutral and grey for earth; and as you say, this is probably the most common situation of sleeving 3 core.
When harmonised colours were introduced, neutral changed from black to blue. It was suggested at the time to use grey oversleeved blue for neutral, as that reinforced the fact that black was no longer neutral.
However provided the cores are properly identified at both ends, it doesn't matter.
Hey John this is the fully informative video to all who uses cable glands. As a manufacturer of cable glands i can say this is my pleasure to come across this presentation.
Very thorough video. Might have been worthwhile expanding on the use of the BW glands, as they're not provided with an olive and could lead to people thinking they're missing from the kit.
Interesting. I don't think I've seen anything like that in residential wiring here in the US, aside from the mains coming in from the pole. I'm surprised UK code allows using structural parts of the cable as the sole grounding conductor. IIRC US code stopped allowing that some years back, and usually UK code is a bit stricter, eg socket shutters, which just started coming into the US.
Great video, very concise.
I do find using a hacksaw on site a little cumbersome and fiddly and so I use a 'Plumbers Adjustable Copper Pipe Tube Cutter' that will cut the plastic outer and score the wire accurately in a matter of seconds.
Keep up the good work John, I look forward to each new video and particularly the Teardowns.
I'll be making a contribution via Patreon. Cheers.
Another great video!!! Thanks so much for passing in your knowledge
5:24 Chircular? Fnar, Mish Moneypenny...
The rubber boots are no longer recommeded i think because they trap in moisture.
Thank you for this, very useful. It would be a good idea to highlight the fact that the ring or olive must be fitted the correct way around, it's not like a plumbing compression olive which can be fitted either way around.
Hello Neil!
Another great and very useful video John. If you're after ideas - how about one on wire stripping and wire stripping tools?
Hi John, great video. Just a quick question, my friend has recently had a power supply fitted to his garage, however they have used standard two core and earth cable running from the house along a tension wire to the garage and it's not protected from the weather. I'm sure they should have used armored cable?
Doesn't have to be armoured if overhead as it's not likely to be damaged but it should be protected from the weather as T&E isn't intended for use in exposed locations.
Great video, thanks! Also like the M102 in the background, I have one and also a RT3.
alun morgan iI
The black "plastic cup" or "dust cap" that you show at (6:38), we always used to call them "boots". I don't know if this is a common term amongst other sparkies but was certainly common to us lot in the fire alarm industry.
Another enjoyable vid. Thanks, JW.
Also, at (7:55), we called that brass ring an "olive". I guess not a strictly accurate moniker, the ring not being symmetrical like a proper olive you might find in a Pyro compression gland. (Or in a plumbers' copper pipe fittings, for that matter). I suppose it's like, half an olive.
i like this method a few strannge things ive noticed abought G.B. wiring vs usa/canada this cable method i like anyone know if this wld pass usa nec ahj codes?
Great video John. Can you please answer a question? I have a SWA cable terminated in a junction box inside a shed (the way you explained in video). But on the other side the cable goes directly into the house and into the RCD unit which is plugged in standard socket. Now this means that steel wires protecting the SWA cable are not earthed on the house side, only in the shed. Is that a problem? Should I terminate SWA in a junction box in the house and have another cable running into a socket? Thank you.
I know its a bit late, but as long as the SWA armour is earthed at one end then that is fine.
A much better instructional video than others I’ve watched John. No banging music and silliness. I’m now confident enough to install all my new shed wiring with swa and not have to worry about slack professionals. Thank you.
Brilliant...... very good teacher/demonstrator. I understood everything and you were very specific and concise, thank you.
Great camera work where I could follow your narrative, top bloke.
Top video. I usually slide a piece of outer sheath over the dust cover, then make the cut a couple mm above, it makes for a spot on cut and a tight fitting glad cover
John, great video as always. I plan on wiring up my garage at the house I just bought, and was wondering the best way to do it.The garage is 5 metres away from the house and I have plenty of SWA, but I don't want this going into the CU. Can I run T&E to a jcn box on the outside wall, then SWA to the garage into the CU in there? Would 2.5mm2 would be the wrong size from the CU to the jcn box? I am planning on running a ring of twin sockets in the garage, and a single lighting circuit.
Thanks in advance
I noticed a recent installation where banjo is fitted on outside and the drilled hole + thru brass bolt used to feed to internal earth on plastic consumer unit. This strikes me as giving better conduction path than clamping using the steel gland nut but maybe OTT given this is all connecting to the steel armor. Excellent video BTW - very clear.
Very informative and professionally presented, thank you John.
Here's a tip : At 19:30 when you have the wires pushed up as far as they will go mark it with a marker on the cable insulation to ensure that you don't "lose" the armour shielding out of the gland as you tighten the nut. Same concept as when you glue up PVC ensure you are fully home
Great video. Are there regulations relating to how deep the cable should be buried (running to a garden) shed?
Very helpful, the wrap of insulation tape was spot on.
Excellent video John, just what I was looking for. Thanks.
I don't think that's 6mm cable. looks more like 2.5mm core. don't know if any 1 pointed that out.
6mm² is the cross sectional area of the conductors, which if circular would be 2.76mm in diameter.
29:14 Can you please specify there in IET book you can find proof of Gray as Neutral . IET GN8 says Black as Neutral and Gray as Green-Yellow CPC . I this is what I been doing for last 15 years . Had a chat with NICEIC assesor and he could not find a book proof of what you just said in a video . thx
Great video JW, nice and clear and neat - thanks for the upload. I was slightly puzzled by the method of securing a banjo of an external gland by drilling through the plastic box. That's a great technique for indoors use but if you are using an external gland likely you are using an IPXX box; if you drill through an IPXX box I would presume it is no longer dirt/water-resistant to the stated IP rating. If my logic is sound how would you recommend securing the banjo to Earth for such a box? I can think of several ways but it would be nice to get your view.
PS - Love the t-shirt
It's not usually a problem, the large hole for the gland itself isn't sealed any better than the small one for the banjo screw.
There are alternative nuts available (Piranha nuts) which have a connection for the earth as part of the nut so a banjo is not required.
Excellent video. Very clear from beginning to end with all points covered.
Very well explained. One thing though, I always use Banjo washers even on metal boxes.
I’m a Trainer - but am in awe of Johns fantastic training videos
Superb instructional video - recommended !
THUMBS DOWN? You need a reality check! JW for Prime minister he he
Pi0pe clamps are actually made of plated copped except for the bolt and nut. I should know as ive scrapped 1000's of them in with the scouf so they will never rust?\!
What mean last 3 no in cable schedule gland specification ( Eg: E1FU_25_M25_GL505)
Remember the olive only works in one direction. It's connical. If you can't get the nut to the thread - thats why. Only thing to add to this.
Love your videos, John. Right at the end of this one, you mentioned earthing the armour at one or both ends depending on circumstances.
If terminating in a metal CU (in, for example, a garden shed with no gas/water pipes) do you use the SWA as the earth, use one of the cores as the earth, or both? Supply is TNC-S. Cable from from Main CU to shed CU would be 50 metres.
I've spoken to a couple of electricians and searched the net. The results are varying, so I'd love to hear your take on it. Some even say ONLY WAY is to have TT at shed as you cannot export earth from main building. My interpretation of regs is that you can, provided a 10mm earth back to main CU is installed, i.e. use 10mm 3 core SWA and use one of the cores as the earth. So John, which side of the fence do you sit?
Comply with current regs obviously, but as a life might depend on this, for my outdoor shed/garage installation I also connected a copper earth rod (at the consumer-unit end) with heavy gauge earth wire to the CU, and drove that rod deep into the earth several feet from the outside wall. Cheap to buy-but it's nice to know, when someone is fumbling with RCDs on a dark winter's night, that the protection of a _foolproof_ earth exists, whatever happens.
Trouble is, regs are not clear (or at least, my interpretation isn't). TT at shed end makes the job a lot more involved and therefore expensive, and consequently wont go ahead. I wanted to know if it could be done by simply using a 10mm2 core to connect earth bar in main consumer unit to earth bar in shed CU? If it can't be done this way, project will likely be abandoned.
As mentioned, I've spoken to some qualified electricians, and got a variety of answers - some of which were not convincing at all (the sparkies just didn't give me confidence they really knew the right thing to do). I've watched a number of JW's videos, and clearly he's a man that reads well!! Therefore, I'm guessing John would have a good interpretation on the regs for this particular situation.
I've searched the internet for this and it throws up arguments/conflicts on every electrical forum I find. What are your views on taking earth from main earth bar in supply CU to shed CU?
And how do you terminate SWA armourings at each end?
Fantastic video john, well presented. Has cleared up a few questions i had about wiring swa cable. Top job
Excellent video as usual. Anyone know if it is sufficient to earth one side only? I’d assume just the supply side? If you did earth both sides would there be an issue with a new TT at shed?
Well done John teaching chancers to become crap sparks if you do an a Apprenticeship whats the videos for making a few quid you must not be time served electrician because you wouldnot be betraying your trade endangering lives
When connecting SWA cable to PVC boxes, I prefer to use an extra nut and sandwich the brass earth washer between two metallic nuts and not between plastic and a metallic nut. I do this for better earth continuity.
Hmm interesting but don't really think it's steel wire looks galvanized wire 2 me steel wire just corrodes like within really fast
John can you please make a video for commercial flourcent lights installation with suspension kit or chain.thank you
Hi jw I have been looking at doncaster tuf sheathed cable to clip direct to the out side of a house it will be rcd protected. Do you think there would be any problem reg wise with this thanks
Does it matter what colour I use as a earth for my outside shed .and do I still have to earth the armoured steel on a bango .I'm putting 4 outside sockets from my house to shed.and do I have to put a bango on each socket
I am finding some of the plastic enclosures have ridges that do not allow enough room for a banjo inside - is there an approved way of dealing with this?
Good video, but i don’t think is a good idea to use the steel armour as earth. That connection is done more for earthening (grounding ) it through a real earth such gas cooper line or water cooper lines because cooper has a lower resistance compared with steel.
Hi John another method for outbuilding is to use two core and earth stake the end thus saving cost of running an earth cable all the way up the garden thanks for instructive videos. neil
always end up on john ward's videos everytime I'm on youtube
Thanks for another excellent video. Very detailed useful. 👌
Any tips on stripping the internal cable after it is glanded into the enclosure? This seems to be the most difficult bit, as there's usually very little working space after it's fitted to strip nice and close to the entry point. e.g. I'm glanding into steel trunking and want to have cores separated just after entry point. Can't get a cable stripper or knife close enough to the gland! Guess I will have to remove gland from box and do it (JW advises not to do this...)
Quite simply superb. Far from superficial .. this video covers everything that you will need to know about terminating SWA; the level of detail is immaculate. I wish it had been available when I put swa to my garage 15 years ago!! (wrongly, but I am about to upgrade the installation following this tutorial)
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God it's wierd watching someone use the old wrenches now knipex are everywhere 😎
Big help for me thank you. You answered all the questions I had regarding the armour and earthing. Cheers.
Brilliant vid! Thanks so much.
never seen such a thing in the US, as all wiring in the ground has to be in conduit, looks pretty neat, though
I love your videos, but in them (at least the ones I've seen thus far) you always seem so serious (not necessarily a negative thing). I was happy to see you wearing a turtles shirt because it means at some point you were, in fact, a kid.
Brilliant video thank. Can you do one on how to make cornflake tart ? it's my favourite
Thanks for the vid. I kind of wish we had a cable like this here in the US. One thought... wouldn't it be easier to use a tubing cutter (rollers and cutting wheel type) to score the armor instead of a hacksaw? It would offer much better control and automatically give you a very even score around the cable.
+PetrosArgy There is a product like that, the Kew Technik Blade Runner. Never used one, but the blades apparently don't last long and are very expensive.
+John Ward I checked that out on amazon.co.uk and it looks like a ripoff. From the comments it sounds like it has a toothed blade rather than a smooth wheel. I would look for a good quality plumber's tubing cutter with a smooth wheel. We've been using them here on rigid steel pipe for a hundred years and they work well. I have a RIDGID model 104 which is labeled for 5-24mm diameter tubes which would probably work a charm.
Found it! It looks like the SACS tool is the closest, purpose made tool to what I'm thinking of. Not a hack saw version of a pipe cutter...
+PetrosArgy
Scoring the armor with a hacksaw is actually a lot harder than it looks in this video. Normally you can't just turn the cable around as you score it. I tend to use a junior hacksaw which is a bit easier to maneuver, but I like the idea of some sort of cutter.
Many thanks to John for a clear and well-paced video tutorial. The _C.K T2250 ArmourSlice SWA Cable Stripper with 5-Blades_ is £27.73, or 40 USD approx., on Amazon's UK site, 28th May 2016. While it might be great for a frequent user, I'll get out my plumber's pipe cutter as suggested when I tackle this job next week. (FWIW, C.K make decent quality equipment in my experience.)
I watch the video only to see how he cut the inner cable but he didnt what is the best way to cut it without damaging the small inner cable .
explained very well, Thank You.
Did anyone else notice the gland selector chart says 'Chircular'?
suppose you have to take power to the room at the end of the garden.
The CU is under the stairs and the cable would have to be routed as follows:
along the same wall of the CU location, through a small room then under the kitchen and out of the kitchen wall into the garden (still along the same side wall of the CU) in the ground and the up into the wall of the room in the end of the garden.
my question is:
could the swa cable be used in the garden and then terminated at the wall (on both ends where it enters either property) and inside both properties a twin and earth (of the required mm2) used to continue the run on one side to the CU and on the other side to a smaller CU?
and if so what kind of junction box would be used? I have seen some Wiska Boxes that have internal fitting for a swa cable joint but they are rare on searching the internet.
I Am asking this question as i am studying at the moment and looking at all scenarios to whichever property i see and go to whether its relatives or friends.
any insight would be appreciated and if you would do it another way to the above what way would that be and what equipment would you use? this installation would ideally be for 1 x 32A Ring Final Circuit and 1 x 6A Lighting Circuit.
Thank you in advance for taking the time to read and reply.
much appreciated.
As I was also interested in this issue I had a look, it seems SWA Wiska Boxes and the associated earth clamp bar are avaliable from tlc-direct co uk. hth
Excellent mate. I've learnt a lot about SWA cable and fitting them now. 😁👌
Fred, Bunty, Jack and John would be proud!
My thoughts exactly, it was like watching an episode of how, brilliant !
Excellent video. I personally no longer install SWA into anything plastic, but I do fit the brass banjo regardless. Many metal junction boxes do not have an earth terminal, and relying on just the gland alone to ground the box seems inadequate. By using the banjo you are able to link the earth core, the metal box and the armouring all together.
Would love a video on SY cable
Great video. Good to know that the normal practice is black becomes earth (green&yellow) and grey becomes neutral (blue)
All of your videos are excellent & well explained.
Cheers John
did he cut that armouring with his teeth... these videos are bad....
Can we get a video on terminating unused cables we can’t remove
Great video! He sounds like Terry Wogan!
Great video, thanks! Also, lovely organ in the background!Hammond?
Perfect video, thank you👍
Is it ok to supply post to s metal shed using this? I know someone who did and he put the end of the armoured cable into a junction box and then off to twin and earth and finally into one of those 4 way extension things which the lighting also plugged into. I am guessing it would be more appropriate to use a separate consumer unit? Also what's the proper way to earth the shed?
Excellent video John, thank you. If running a length of this to a garden office what's the breaker situation? The garden office will have lighting and sockets only. Can SWA be run from the house consumer unit on a new circuit with say a 40A RCBO over to a mini consumer unit in the office with a 32A and 6A MCB for the socket and lighting circuits. Is using MCBs with no RCD in the office okay seeing as the main circuit from the house is on an RCBO? Is it also okay to run the SWA as a "clothes line" to the office as the ground is concreted, I'm worried about the sag putting stress on the cable where it enters the two buildings.
Hi John, great vids.
What's you view on running a ring circuit from the CU to a shed and summer house in 25mm black conduit?
Brilliant explanation. Thanks John, I love learning from your videos. For those saying it's difficult to make the hacksaw cut, why not use a junior hacksaw with a sharp blade, surely has to be easier than a full size frame.
I use a plumbers adjustable pipe cutters instead of saw.
Another excellent video! As an electrician of 30+ years myself I still never tire of watching videos made by others, you never stop learning! May I just ask though... What make and model of video equipment do you use to produce your videos? I am looking to purchased a new HD camera but can't seem to find one with remote control which is what you appear to use. Thanks Alan.
dudleyguy42 Panasonic HC-X900 which is not made any more, the HC-X920 is the newer equivalent.
Thanks John appreciate the information.
You make really interesting and informative videos, thanks.
Hi john great tutorial,
One question please on a long run of armoured cable outside,
Is it better practise to run 3 core and use one core for the earth plus making lf the armoured strands?
It's an option. Not necessarily better or worse, and does depend on what earthing system is being used at each end.
Hi what size cable go to consumer unit thanks .
What is "chircular" vs "circular" ?
A misprint, of course. Happens when instructions are printed in far-off lands. ;0)