Just done with my valve check. I managed to get the valve cover off without unscrewing the throtle bodies. You Just need to unscrew the botom screw holding the throtle lines in place in front od the throtle bodies. Then you can rotate it to the top and have space for the valve cover. Saves a lot of Time.
@@mickymalvoy1692 i skipped all the things from 4:32 to 6:00. It was winter and the rubber was cold and they didn't want to come off. I left the entire thing in place and " You Just need to unscrew the bottom screw holding the throttle lines in place in front of the throttle bodies. Then you can rotate it to the top and have space for the valve cover"
@@JaroRydz much appreciated. Also doing in winter. These throttle boddies have no desire to come off. Was just checking the comments before i got the blow-dryer.
Stumbled upon this vid because i trying to change my cct without disturbing the throttle bodies (which is next to impossible btw) so thank you for the vid . Those screw heads are JIS , not Philip's. Cheers buddy.
Thanks for the video it was a job thay i was worried about but seams quite simple my 01 f4i is at 24000 so due a check ill be doing it this winter im no mechanic but mechanicly minded and do all my own work on car and now bike so should be easy enough 🖒
I know it's likely not relevant to you anymore, but for people following this guide in the future: You loosen the CCTL to avoid the chain accidentally skipping a tooth on the cam gears when you move the rod during the change of shims after measuring. You don't need to actually loosen the bolts that attaches it to the block, but rather you can just put a little key into the end of the CCTL and unwind it (counter clockwise turns).
Hi Bryan, I'm preparing to do this now. Did you have to drain the coolant to take off the throttle bodies? The manual calls for it. Also, did you feel you had enough clearance just by propping up the tank? The manual also calls for removing the tank as well.
I never drained the coolant when removing the throttle bodies and haven't had a problem or understand why its called for. Maybe someone else smarter could explain why. As for totalling removing the gas tank, its not necessary. Obviously removing it will give you more access but propping it up with a bungie cord provides more than enough room. The hardest part is going to be gaining access to the side next to the radiator because its quite tight.
It looks like you didn't completely remove the throttle body, is that correct? You just unseated it and kind of slide it an inch out of the way and covered it up.
Yup. By all means you can remove them if you want but I didn't see the point in going to all that effort if I didn't have to. They didn't really get in the way at all.
This is what is stated in the shop manual for checking the valve clearance. I don't really understand why and it doesn't seem necessary after doing it. But people smarter and more experienced than I wrote the thing so I just did what it says
I did mine after 50,000 km's (30,000 miles) and I only waited that long because I bought the bike at 43,000 km's. The manual states you should check after 25,000 km's (15,000 miles). I'm not an expert but my clearances were too tight and it sounded very rough idling so that led me to check. If the valve clearances are to loose then you would hear a clicking/clacking.
nice video! just need remove throttle body for change Thermostat, later try with hair dryer . accidetally i unplugg the little tubes from injectors i go to watch other vid to connect all tubes of throttle body =)
I hate working on this bike. Everything is in your way when you're trying to undo things etc. It's like Honda didn't give any thought to how the bike would be worked on at all.
I will dislike this because you did not show how to actually measure the intake and exhaust, you thrown a couple of pictures and got done with it.... I'm saying this because i have big hands and i'm afraid that when i get to the point of measuring, i can't do it
The no-talking approach is much appreciated.
Thanks for the detailed video, most people are too lazy to do this.
Just done with my valve check. I managed to get the valve cover off without unscrewing the throtle bodies. You Just need to unscrew the botom screw holding the throtle lines in place in front od the throtle bodies. Then you can rotate it to the top and have space for the valve cover. Saves a lot of Time.
So what step do i skip can you time stamp it
@@mickymalvoy1692 i skipped all the things from 4:32 to 6:00. It was winter and the rubber was cold and they didn't want to come off. I left the entire thing in place and " You Just need to unscrew the bottom screw holding the throttle lines in place in front of the throttle bodies. Then you can rotate it to the top and have space for the valve cover"
@@JaroRydz much appreciated. Also doing in winter. These throttle boddies have no desire to come off. Was just checking the comments before i got the blow-dryer.
Thank you for the video and very haig quality of the angles and light. Very useful for me.
Stumbled upon this vid because i trying to change my cct without disturbing the throttle bodies (which is next to impossible btw) so thank you for the vid . Those screw heads are JIS , not Philip's. Cheers buddy.
Can you show me a picture of how the coolant hoses are routed from the thermostat housing?
Thanks for the video it was a job thay i was worried about but seams quite simple my 01 f4i is at 24000 so due a check ill be doing it this winter im no mechanic but mechanicly minded and do all my own work on car and now bike so should be easy enough 🖒
How many miles did your bike have when you checked the clearances in this video?
How do you know the index line is exactly at 12 o'clock? (If there isn't 2 marks that line up) Or is it approximate.
Why do you have to loosen the cam chain tensioner?
Thanks for the video! One question: Why loosen the tensioner before measuring the clearance?
If I remember correctly, it is stated in the shop manual to do so.
@@bryanalexander82 Okay, thanks for the reply, I´ll have a closer look in my shop manual..
I know it's likely not relevant to you anymore, but for people following this guide in the future:
You loosen the CCTL to avoid the chain accidentally skipping a tooth on the cam gears when you move the rod during the change of shims after measuring.
You don't need to actually loosen the bolts that attaches it to the block, but rather you can just put a little key into the end of the CCTL and unwind it (counter clockwise turns).
Oh.. Thank you so much Bro!!!!!
Will this be similar for a hornet 600? Need to fit restrictor on top of the carbs can't find nothing all about it online
Hi Bryan, I'm preparing to do this now. Did you have to drain the coolant to take off the throttle bodies? The manual calls for it. Also, did you feel you had enough clearance just by propping up the tank? The manual also calls for removing the tank as well.
I never drained the coolant when removing the throttle bodies and haven't had a problem or understand why its called for. Maybe someone else smarter could explain why. As for totalling removing the gas tank, its not necessary. Obviously removing it will give you more access but propping it up with a bungie cord provides more than enough room. The hardest part is going to be gaining access to the side next to the radiator because its quite tight.
It looks like you didn't completely remove the throttle body, is that correct? You just unseated it and kind of slide it an inch out of the way and covered it up.
Yup. By all means you can remove them if you want but I didn't see the point in going to all that effort if I didn't have to. They didn't really get in the way at all.
Thanks for vid. Are you sure you need to release tensioner? Im pretty sure thats only required if you are going to change shims/ remove cam.
This is what is stated in the shop manual for checking the valve clearance. I don't really understand why and it doesn't seem necessary after doing it. But people smarter and more experienced than I wrote the thing so I just did what it says
I tried measuring mine without the tensioner, then with the tensioner. My clearances were all pretty far off with the tensioner.
my f4i has a hair over 30,000 miles, dont think my valves have been adjusted. How do I know if I need the valves adjusted?
I did mine after 50,000 km's (30,000 miles) and I only waited that long because I bought the bike at 43,000 km's. The manual states you should check after 25,000 km's (15,000 miles). I'm not an expert but my clearances were too tight and it sounded very rough idling so that led me to check. If the valve clearances are to loose then you would hear a clicking/clacking.
Appreciate the quick response. It does have a rough idle and smells sort of lean out the exhaust. I think it needs adjustment
why do I need the washers?
nice video! just need remove throttle body for change Thermostat, later try with hair dryer . accidetally i unplugg the little tubes from injectors i go to watch other vid to connect all tubes of throttle body =)
Ohhhhhhh it is great
Thanks
I watched all the video and I even have not a bike... lol
My guys air filter is upside down. 😅
I hate working on this bike. Everything is in your way when you're trying to undo things etc. It's like Honda didn't give any thought to how the bike would be worked on at all.
I will dislike this because you did not show how to actually measure the intake and exhaust, you thrown a couple of pictures and got done with it.... I'm saying this because i have big hands and i'm afraid that when i get to the point of measuring, i can't do it
You find similar videos...full of loud music and people full of Ego but nothing about providing info of any value
Its a human issue
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