I have 4 of these HSP cars 2 Warheads, 1 Sonic, 1 Bazooka. All nitro. Never had any issues. Take the time to break in the engines and they will last a long time. Best cheap RC on the market.
Glad to hear that. I've so far only run a break in tank through my 94177, which is the "1/10th scale" rally car. The driver that would fit in the rally car would absolutely dwarf the one that would pilot my 94123, which is a brushless electric drift car that I think is truer to 10th scale. Not that I'm complaining. The value for money with the HSP stuff seems great even before it starts getting discounted with age and I almost feel like I stole my nitro car. Good excuse to drive it like I stole it then, huh? It's great to know that if you treat 'em well during break in, they have the potential to last. Dumb question... I bought a liter of "break in" nitro, which contains more oil, and a liter of the only other nitro from the same line of fuels I saw, which turns out to be 30% nitro. I knew even less about the fuel when I ordered than I do now. 😉 It sounds like 20 - 25% is what I should have bought, but I was thinking I might start mixing in some of the 30% with the break in fuel after I run 2 or 3 more tanks of pure break in fuel. If I keep slightly increasing the proportion of the 30%, that should make for a real nice break in for the engine and maybe I'll use most of if by the time I have to reorder. Would you expect any potential trouble if I were to run the 30% straight?
@@ledchickenfpv7164 i would use the break in fuel first. I run my cars in 16% nitro. Though nobody seems to sell that any more. I don't know for sure, but I suspect trying to break in using 30% could shorten the life of the engine. 30% is racing formula.
@@gj5464 Sounds like starting to mix small quantities of the 30% in with the break in fuel after another couple/few tanks of running the break in fuel straight would be the safest way to use the 30%. I'd just prefer not to waste a ~$25 can of fuel if I can help it. Strangely, the break in fuel doesn't say what the nitro percentage is, but I'd assume it'd be relatively conservative. The break in fuel label only specifies that it contains 14% oil and the 30% nitro fuel has a 9% oil content, but nothing about nitro content on the break in fuel container. 😐 The brand of fuel I bought is VP Powermaster and they have a web site. Maybe I can find out more about the exact formulation of their "Golden Break In Fuel" there. Isn't it the higher temperatures that come with the bigger bang of greater nitro content that we're trying to avoid? I was monitoring the engine's temperature by using a couple cheapo IR thermometers and my hand while letting it idle and toward the end of the tank brought the engine speed up just enough to putt putt around including with the body on and it ran nice and cool. I apologize. I'm fighting the urge to ask a bunch of questions and I'm sure you've got better things to do than answer some random stranger's questions about his new toy. 😉 😂🤣 Thanks for your advice, much appreciated! 😁👍
@@ledchickenfpv7164 all good mate. Not saying don't use the 30% fuel, just suggesting you use it after you've broken in the engine. Takes around 8 tanks to break in properly. First to tanks just idling, then start drive around gradually increasing speed. Some good videos on UA-cam to show you how.
@@gj5464 One more stupid question... I should probably get a backup glow plug starter since the one that came with the cheapo nitro starter package on Amazon doesn't exactly make me think "bulletproof". It's HSP brand and has just a single NiCd cell labeled SP1800mAh. If SP means anything it's probably that they're half miliamps. 😉 In your experience, should one of those cheap HSP glow starters last for a full afternoon of use, even with some starts that take a bit of fiddling? My last start attempt got aborted because it was reluctant to fire back up after a short cooldown, which left me wondering if the glow starter might have gone flat. I'm thinking at least one backup is called for considering the hard core nitro old timers usually have a half dozen within easy reach in their videos and maybe one of 'em charged and working. Got any recommendations? Assuming you agree I should get a second... 🤙
I got the speed 73 kph with 25% nitro. I used Garmin 301 ti check thw speed. You just need to little lean out the carb. Definitely you will get more than 60kph. All the best bro.
I did, and the engine heat increase rapidly. I saw 161 Celcius Degrees! So, that kind of heat obviously harmful for it. It is a personal decision to use different kinds of fuel on your car/cars, i just NOT Recommend it.
What do you mean the controls are rubbish? I haven't got my car yet. Do you mean hard to control? Or no range? Or what exactly? Im excited to get mine in the mail soon. Thanks.
Я предлагаю вам заменить сервопривод рулевого управления на более мощный, использовать аккумуляторную батарею li-fe для электроники и заменить удаленную систему функцией Fail Safe, если вы можете.
Turning was about the slow servo, so it is changed, and for the shocks you are right, after some adjustment it does not get out of control anymore. This is the most affordale rtr nitro rc, so there is always a thing to fix, to change or to adjust :)
@@RcObsessive Продаван пишет -ведущая шестерня люминь, ведомая пластик...на год покатушек хватит...потом менять с гимором...но че делать, китайцы завалили такими не дорогими ДВС машинками со слабым редуктором всю алишку...других ДВСов в масштабе 1:10 с более качественным редуктором не нашел...видимо нормальные производители уже прекратили выпуск ДВСок и перешли на электро..
Hey I am looking at getting one how much did you buy it for the one I am looking at is 63 dollars and I am really thing about buying it. If you would please tell me how much you got yours for?
When i would buy Nitor in Germany: i only geht this in "Conrad" Electronics Hobby Store. No Internet. There costs the Liter 15€ the Liter. And it only Brings me One Weekend of playtime. And we have no Driving Track. Are there Cheaper options for Fuel?
Я про такие игрушки в детстве не мечтал,да и сейчас не мечтаю))
Hi, friend! We 100% recommend this stroller! What is the quality of the motor and its lifespan? Pros and cons? Greetings :)

I have 4 of these HSP cars 2 Warheads, 1 Sonic, 1 Bazooka. All nitro. Never had any issues. Take the time to break in the engines and they will last a long time. Best cheap RC on the market.
Glad to hear that. I've so far only run a break in tank through my 94177, which is the "1/10th scale" rally car. The driver that would fit in the rally car would absolutely dwarf the one that would pilot my 94123, which is a brushless electric drift car that I think is truer to 10th scale. Not that I'm complaining. The value for money with the HSP stuff seems great even before it starts getting discounted with age and I almost feel like I stole my nitro car. Good excuse to drive it like I stole it then, huh?
It's great to know that if you treat 'em well during break in, they have the potential to last. Dumb question... I bought a liter of "break in" nitro, which contains more oil, and a liter of the only other nitro from the same line of fuels I saw, which turns out to be 30% nitro. I knew even less about the fuel when I ordered than I do now. 😉 It sounds like 20 - 25% is what I should have bought, but I was thinking I might start mixing in some of the 30% with the break in fuel after I run 2 or 3 more tanks of pure break in fuel. If I keep slightly increasing the proportion of the 30%, that should make for a real nice break in for the engine and maybe I'll use most of if by the time I have to reorder. Would you expect any potential trouble if I were to run the 30% straight?
@@ledchickenfpv7164 i would use the break in fuel first. I run my cars in 16% nitro. Though nobody seems to sell that any more. I don't know for sure, but I suspect trying to break in using 30% could shorten the life of the engine. 30% is racing formula.
@@gj5464 Sounds like starting to mix small quantities of the 30% in with the break in fuel after another couple/few tanks of running the break in fuel straight would be the safest way to use the 30%. I'd just prefer not to waste a ~$25 can of fuel if I can help it.
Strangely, the break in fuel doesn't say what the nitro percentage is, but I'd assume it'd be relatively conservative. The break in fuel label only specifies that it contains 14% oil and the 30% nitro fuel has a 9% oil content, but nothing about nitro content on the break in fuel container. 😐
The brand of fuel I bought is VP Powermaster and they have a web site. Maybe I can find out more about the exact formulation of their "Golden Break In Fuel" there. Isn't it the higher temperatures that come with the bigger bang of greater nitro content that we're trying to avoid? I was monitoring the engine's temperature by using a couple cheapo IR thermometers and my hand while letting it idle and toward the end of the tank brought the engine speed up just enough to putt putt around including with the body on and it ran nice and cool.
I apologize. I'm fighting the urge to ask a bunch of questions and I'm sure you've got better things to do than answer some random stranger's questions about his new toy. 😉 😂🤣
Thanks for your advice, much appreciated! 😁👍
@@ledchickenfpv7164 all good mate. Not saying don't use the 30% fuel, just suggesting you use it after you've broken in the engine. Takes around 8 tanks to break in properly. First to tanks just idling, then start drive around gradually increasing speed. Some good videos on UA-cam to show you how.
@@gj5464 One more stupid question... I should probably get a backup glow plug starter since the one that came with the cheapo nitro starter package on Amazon doesn't exactly make me think "bulletproof". It's HSP brand and has just a single NiCd cell labeled SP1800mAh. If SP means anything it's probably that they're half miliamps. 😉
In your experience, should one of those cheap HSP glow starters last for a full afternoon of use, even with some starts that take a bit of fiddling? My last start attempt got aborted because it was reluctant to fire back up after a short cooldown, which left me wondering if the glow starter might have gone flat. I'm thinking at least one backup is called for considering the hard core nitro old timers usually have a half dozen within easy reach in their videos and maybe one of 'em charged and working. Got any recommendations? Assuming you agree I should get a second...
🤙
I got the speed 73 kph with 25% nitro. I used Garmin 301 ti check thw speed. You just need to little lean out the carb. Definitely you will get more than 60kph. All the best bro.
Thank you for the comment! With 25% it is normal, but it would be really harmful to engine, would not it?
Dodo Ultimate it’s not harmful, have u even tried it your self
I did, and the engine heat increase rapidly. I saw 161 Celcius Degrees! So, that kind of heat obviously harmful for it. It is a personal decision to use different kinds of fuel on your car/cars, i just NOT Recommend it.
Hey this video remines me you shouldn't drink and drive your RC cars but its fun LOL !!!!!!!
What do you mean the controls are rubbish? I haven't got my car yet. Do you mean hard to control? Or no range? Or what exactly? Im excited to get mine in the mail soon. Thanks.
Range is too short not responsive, i suggest you to replace RX-TX.
Nice video.
This is the car I'm getting cant wait
I am happy for you, this is a car for real Fun! Just Break-in and Tune the Engine Properly.
First time owning a nitro fuel car aswell but will try my best with it jus going to use it for fun.
If this is your time, you really should be assisted by a person who knows something about Nitro Engines. Just a friendly advice.
My dad knows alot bout engines etc so it's fine. I'm nt really worried its jus a thing I've wanted. I will be fine
@@chrisleete96 got the car yet there not hard with youtube
Was there a dji phantom flying in the background at the start? 😆 sounded like one
it was fimi x8 se :)
@@RcObsessive oh sounded like one haha
I have one of these, awesome car.
Can you Help i bought one today and I have to break in the engine but I can't start it. Do you have any tips?
Looks fun
Abang orang indo kan
Bang beli rc nya di mana
Заказал сегодня такую же! Подскажи минусы или какие-то нюансы которые надо знать
Я предлагаю вам заменить сервопривод рулевого управления на более мощный, использовать аккумуляторную батарею li-fe для электроники и заменить удаленную систему функцией Fail Safe, если вы можете.
@@RcObsessive спасибо, всё понял, кроме удалённой системы. Что это?)
Пульт дистанционного управления и приемник с отказоустойчивостью. У меня стоковая ствольная коробка не имела отказоустойчивости.
@@RcObsessive спасибо
Сегодня пришла, я не понял как задний ход включать или у неё его нет?
Why did it appear that your car was out of control when jumping and turning. Do you need to adjust or rebuild your suspension m?
Turning was about the slow servo, so it is changed, and for the shocks you are right, after some adjustment it does not get out of control anymore. This is the most affordale rtr nitro rc, so there is always a thing to fix, to change or to adjust :)
Does it really go 60mph
Not MPH, KMH :)
Skoda favorit
Can you upgrade tires to more off road type?
As long as the the size is similar, why not?
I’m having trouble installing the batteries can you make a video about that?
Does this have second gear? The pictures looks like it does
Yes it does.
Стоит ли покупать такую? Как качество?
По деньгам нормально. Продукты премиум-класса, такие как Kyosho или HPI, стоят в 3 раза дороже, чем этот.
@@RcObsessive Редуктор -пластик+ аллюминий?
@@Событияфакты На моем он алюминиевый, но иногда меняется. Так что лучше сначала спросить у продавца.
@@RcObsessive Продаван пишет -ведущая шестерня люминь, ведомая пластик...на год покатушек хватит...потом менять с гимором...но че делать, китайцы завалили такими не дорогими ДВС машинками со слабым редуктором всю алишку...других ДВСов в масштабе 1:10 с более качественным редуктором не нашел...видимо нормальные производители уже прекратили выпуск ДВСок и перешли на электро..
Hey I am looking at getting one how much did you buy it for the one I am looking at is 63 dollars and I am really thing about buying it. If you would please tell me how much you got yours for?
Link in the description box.
You can get a nitro for 63. Maybe 163
what's different between 94106 and 94166?
Just numbers on their names, other than that They are Identical.
@@RcObsessive thank you.
What’s the song called
I’m fixing to buy one from a guy I know for a $161 and does it have reverse and it’s brand new
No reverse.
The best fuel for the car please
I am using 16% Nitro Fuel which i buy from a local guy in Istanbul. He makes homemade nitro fuel for rc cars.
When i would buy Nitor in Germany: i only geht this in "Conrad" Electronics Hobby Store. No Internet.
There costs the Liter 15€ the Liter.
And it only Brings me One Weekend of playtime. And we have no Driving Track.
Are there Cheaper options for Fuel?
it is better to find some local guys who makes their own fuel. I am lucky there are some people making and selling them in Istanbul.
Has the servo broke yet
Nope :)
@@RcObsessive what you running for nitro
%16, %20, %25. The engine still in good condition :)
ua-cam.com/video/8_PYdAl_fFI/v-deo.html
Normally it’s better to let the rc car idle for about a minute to warm up its not the best to throttle them full when they are cold
You are right . I already warmed-up the engine before recording the video :)
@@RcObsessive ok :)
Topp..
You need to learn how to tune it sounds like the idle is to high and needs to lean the mixer in top speed sounds like it was bogging down
Tune and drive are skills he needs too learn
Is he running a too rich fuel mix or is it just me?
on purpose
I have this car
Give away it to me. I love this car
CQ2144 CTUMP it’s not expensive
Bangood $199
Wa the best cheap rc car for 200 and below
"cheap" 200€ hum hum 😂😂
ur need go to driving school bro
:) You are right.