Tamiya
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- In this video I build the 1:35 scale German King Tiger Tank Ardennes Front made by Tamiya. This is a bit of a long video. It goes fairly in depth in the assembly of this plastic model. Let me know if it’s too in depth, not enough etc.
I go through each step of the instructions. It’s almost like a guide I guess… though a rough one at that. I did not build the included motorcycle or the tank’s interior, though I did do a little customisation and bent some brass rod to make a cable for the front of the tank.
I really like this kit, it’s nicely detailed and the Tiger 2 is an awesome tank. It’s one of the biggest and most intimidating tanks of world war 2, but this kit is not at all intimidating. I guess it is huge though, for someone used to modelling in smaller scales like 1:100.
Stay tuned for a painting video of this model some time in the future! …Soon™
As always if you have any questions, comments or suggestions put them in the comment section. I’d love to hear them.
If you like what I do please consider supporting me on Patreon: / herberterpaderp
Music:
“North” - Silent Partner
“Don’t Look” - Silent Partner
“Where I Am From” - Topher Mohr and Alex Elna
“Tell The Angels” - Letter Box
Feedback on your video:
1. Length is perfect
2. Very informative
3. Very entertaining
4. Editing is great
5. Your sense of humor adds immensely to the watchability
Well done!
He sure isnt a tanker though.. Thats not always a bad thing though.. I refer to all Tankers as DAT's
In regards to the King Tiger,that mg is a mg34. I enjoy listening to your builds and tutorials. Thanks Herbert.
There is an easy trick you can use when creating thin piping or cables: Use electronic solder. The "older" kind which is "Pb60Sn40" or something in this range, which makes it 60 percent lead and 40 percent tin. It is very easy to lay down, super easy to bend even with your fingers/nails and even squash if need be for some reason. Comes in different diameters from 0.25mm or 0.5mm to around 3mm. Easy to paint and prime too. Just fight the urge to eat it - They say lead is bad for you, kind of. Nice build, makes me think Tamiya should license this as an instructional video :)
Ooh, that's an awesome idea! I totally never would have thought of that. I didn't even realise solder came in such thin diameters.
I'll pick some up and try to resist the urge to eat it. Though I really do like my lead... mmmm mmm.
I just happen to have lots of solder spools laying around from other hobbies, so I just use them right now. After giving it some additional thought, I remembered two more sources for "scale cables":
- Pure lead wire that some people use for some fishing related purpose - I have no idea what exactly for or where to get it, I just "inherited" a spool that got used up long ago so I totally forgot about it.
- Laquered copper wire that comes in diameters down to 0.01mm (electronics store item). The copper may be easier to find and has a greater variety of available diameters.You can use the thinner copper wires to braid (or simply twist) your own towing cables too if you are that kind of person. The thicker gauges of copper wire are obviously harder to bend and cut. I'd use lead wire or solder for anything thicker than maybe 0.20mm. Depends on what you want to do with it, of course - a few straight wires down some walls are no problem even with thicker copper.
I think I will need to find an electronics and maybe fishing store!
I'd imagine all that stuff would be cheaper there than any hobby specific equivalents too.
I don't normally feel a need to make my own towing cables, but twisting my own cables out of something flexible seems easy and it'd be a good way to make some little bits of extra stowage.
+Herbert Erpaderp Oh, btw: the coper wire goes by the name "enameled wire" and "magnet wire", too. Just in case the staff gives you weird looks when you ask.
You can simulate sagging by this, Cut some foam earplugs in half and wedge 'em between the sponsons and the track surface - one side at a time. Turn on a 1200 watt blow dryer 10 to 15 inches away from the track. When finished with that side put it in the freezer for a couple of hours to set them. When you want to take the earplugs out, just let them warm to room temperature before trying to remove them - and then do the other side. I copy from FSM 7:45 weird face XD
I would never have thought of this. does the heat have any damaging effects on it?
It might be kind of hard with this model having the side skirts covering the track, but it's a good idea to keep in mind. I guess I'd have to buy a hair dryer though.
+Herbert Erpaderp Or you just glue the track to the road wheels
It doesn't damage the model
The torsion bar runs the whole width of the hull so the other side has to be slightly forwards/backwards to make room, and to simplify production one side of the torsion bars are trailing arms and the other side are leading arms (i.e facing forwards or backwards)
I found this video helpful in several respects. Thank you. It's very well presented.
Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful
You have rapidly become my favorite UA-cam content provider. Keep up the good work mate!
Hooray! I shall endeavour to do so!
Them exhausts look nice not just being a hole it's got the butterfly in them that's cool!
I'm waiting for the Painting for this! xD
:(
Yes please the motorcycle it would look good with the King Tiger fantastic
I enjoyed this video. Duration was a bit longer than some of your other builds but not too long. I like the detailed explanation of the purpose of the various parts as opposed to just plopping on another circle or handle. I generally just paint miniature figures rather than assemble models, so particularly appreciate that you provide an estimate of the total build time as I don't have much reference to gauge what that might be.
I would watch the motorcycle assembly but it would be cooler if it had a sidecar, and you could model Indiana Jones and his dad from the third film.
I really like the idea of making an Indiana Jones motorcycle and side car. It would also give me an excuse to try and build that tank too.
it's a mg-34.
My ATL 28 panther 2 tracks were £30 UK pounds for mine but was well worth it! First time I have done metal metal tracks in a build! There the same tracks!
Good video!!! I have built this kit & the Tamiya King Tiger w/Porsche Turret a few times. Yep - that vinyl mesh for the air intakes totally sucked. Used the vinyl mesh on my first kit and was no way to hide how horrible it looks. Discovered and excellent after market kit from Alliance Models that others 2 sets of air intakes made out of brass: 1 set for the Tamiya King Tiger w/ Production Turret and 1 set for the Tamiya King Tiger w/ Porsche Turret. Did not know that the actual vehicle(s) had different air intakes, so learned something then. Also, Tamiya offers an excellent after market track shoe kit (same type as comes with the model kit). Have used that track shoe kit for anything King Tiger/Jagdtiger that Tamiya offers (also good for other manufacturers as well). Also, the "4th" crew member is from the original offering of this kit.
Beautiful build mate, i dont think ive seen a modeller channel as good as yours
Build the motorcycle. Can't wait for you to paint it!!!!!
Very nice and detailed build! Great video!
I recently picked up a Tamiya M2 Bradley. It's got a metric TON of detail. Still being new at modeling, I'm quite concerned about how/what order I'll be painting it... Such as interior details, as well as the wheels...
Then again, you may paint this Tiger before I paint my Bradley.
Another thing I'm still testing is plastic cement vs super glue. Cement works WAY better than super glue, but for more complicated models like this, it also requires masking/scraping paint off to reveal plastic... Hmm.. I'm rambling now.
It can be kind of hard to know what will need to be left off for painting sometimes. I usually just try to see if a part will block the brush or if I can get away with not painting behind a part.
I'd try to use plastic cement on plastic wherever possible, super glue will break easily because it doesn't melt the plastic like cement does. Super gluing details onto display models isn't a bad idea if they won't be handled too much.
Hi sir, I enjoyed watching the video, as i bought my first model ever and your video was my guide. You did a great job and you give very informative tips. I just have one question (I lie, I have many but I will try to find them on UA-cam, so I don't bother you) since I am a beginner: What is a green stuff? :D
Green Stuff is basically a 2 part epoxy putty, In the package it's yellow and blue, so when you mix it it becomes green. It's good for filling gaps and sculpting and things like that.
There are some other colours too and also other putties and fillers, like milliput.
@@HerbertErpaderp thank you for your kind reply. :)
Hi Herbert, very nice video. I think they now add those poly caps to absorb some tension when installing the vinyl tracks so the plastic axis does not break but just guessing, not sure if that is the real reason :)
Seems a sensible enough guess to me. I'd think it's to allow the wheels to roll, but I'm just guessing too.
In real life ,tanks were sloppy air guned painted using the air compressor form the tank , the paint came in block paste and diluted in buckets with petrol or diseal oil connected to hand held air gun. Most tanks were never painted neatly like in kits instruction kit.
I knew you wont complain much about the best quality model brands>:D Plus one sub!
very good tutorial, pity you didn't paint the tank and the tools so we could see the final version.
question what type of tweezers did you use for the small pieces?.
Very impressive
Feedback:
Make the music a bit quiter,or even better just kill it completely
Make a tank with a interior please. Thanks for sharing
Very enjoyable.
do the crew please.
One of my favorite aspects is the crew, I always get excited when a kit says it comes with like six crewmen. You can have an awesome scene unfolding.
Tamiya kits are still well moulded and fit together well but I feel they are starting to be left behind ie. tracks compared to newcomers. Very expensive too.
Some of their new kits have link and length tracks, similar to Dragon's "Magic Tracks", (e.g. their new tooling of the Soviet JS-152, which is a very nice kit).
.
Yes, although Tamiya's latest kits are more crisply-molded than the kits they manufactured prior to 2010 or so, their latest kits are rather expensive here in Canada. This can be especially annoying, given that some of their latest, more expensive kits don't include photoetch and/or link and length tracks (like the kit in this video, and the new versions of the Hummel and Nashorn)! 🙄
I didn’t remember posting this at all lol. I have heard that in some markets in Asia, Tamiya kits are cheaper than Dragon’s. I think the last Tamiya kit I bought was the Char bis. It was expensive but basically the only game in town. They seem to have shifted their focus to 1/48 unfortunately, with the superfluous metal hulls to jack up the price.
That is indeed an MG-34.
You know Manowar ?
I sure do!
I mean, not personally... they're too scared to come to Australia, so I'll never meet them.
haha
Can the tank roll?
*No, its a model.*
@@capt.skipper8469 tamiya models can *roll*
When you say polycaps I think of gunpla for some reason
They aren't called side skirts there mud guards
The lower LOL!
Yeah you were right it's Tamyia haha! Way you said it originally it's an ancient Chinese language apparently!
Who did you upset that made you use that terrible background racket! Too loud, dude!
Louder next time. Got it.
#buildthebike xD
It’s ta-mi-ya long a
I build a model it looks good until i paint then it looks like shit
Lol you used to talk so fast XD
Is this a contest for fastspeakers? It doesn't improve comprehensibility to speak that fast, especially for second-language speakers. But I suppose you are on a "sacred mission" and you don't care about such marginal pleas...