Appreciate the tip mate! I actually did use regular washers over all the rubber washers, it’s just a bit hard to see in the footage (and they are a bit smaller than the rubber washers so bigger ones would be been better)
Nice work. From experience, those coil hoses can be a pain after a while. I reckon a few trips and you might want to change it out for a nice rubber one. It's not much work to loop it up when finished.
Nice one. Another good DIY to make 4WD life much easier. Although, I find those rubber washers useless in very tight nut applications. They simply compress and at most times, expand beyond the nut. I found using the gasket type flat washers to be better. But the silicone you added is the best measure to keep your canopy/under tray box weather-proof. I would have also used a bit of it to the inside of the cable glands to ensure it is fully closed.
Yeah, you could see about half of those rubber washers were ready to pop off, and they'll leave the bolts loose when they do leave the chat. You at least needed a bigger regular washer on top of them, but honestly just the silicone should be enough to keep it water tight without the rubber washers.
Hey Dan, did the same thing in my Ute however ran the airline to an external section so I didn’t have to hear the sound of the compressor. Great video as always. It’s nice to see others doing similar to what you’ve done at home.
This is actually pretty tidy mate, well done. I’ve looked at that Dune conversion kit before but was on the fence. This video sold me on it. Again, well done!!
Awesome work and tutorial, as a positive outcome, I do recommend to use some plastic washers on top of the rubber washers this technique will stop the rubber washer to deform wen you applied pressure with the nut
Thanks mate! Yep reaches all 4 tyres (hose is 7.5m), although the front left only just reaches - I'll see how I go but can always swap over to a longer hose if need be 🙂
Great install Daniel, love ya work. Just make sure you line the base of those cable glands with a small bead of silicone! Water can still get through them if u did a river crossing etc
I know you used rubber washers to seal the box, but I think you should have also used the rubber foot mounts that you left on the original base. They help a lot with vibration. I used to carry one in the same position in an aluminium box, not plastic, and I was always having to bolt it back together, especially if I had been travelling corrugated roads
agree with 99,9999% of work, the only thing I've do different are: a little paint job on the hole to prevent rust, some sikaflex or other RV/marine product instead of normal silicon and an inline fuse .... You got space for a small air tank too!!!! great cleans and neat setup, really like it , you make it easy and "hard work"
Thanks mate! The tray and canopy are aluminium so rust shouldn't be an issue, but agree sika or something else would have been better than the silicon I had lying around in the garage but hopefully it still seals well enough. (I did also install an inline midi fuse to protect the whole setup) 🙂
And the good news is that unless someone can park beside you that you wont be able assist others or pump up trailers now that you are permanently mounted. Im looking to mount my pump on a tray designed for a second battery in the engine compartment of my Triton - able to be removed - maybe just wingnuts. A permanent hose to the grill and rear bumper. Solenoid switch to cabin. Powered by starter battery with engine running with minimal cable run there is no need to open the bonnet to add air - just plug in the hose at front or rear. Dune accessory kit may be needed.
What size compressor were you looking at mounting? The specialized under bonnet compressors seem a bit pricey and I've already got a compressor, be interesting to see what fits.
I have a Bushranger Max Air iii which has a nice metal baseplate like the dune version - its a fair bit more pricy at over $300. I havent measured it yet and dont have the battery mount plate yet but it seems to be about the right size for a smaller battery so the compressor should fit. Not sure I need a tank, or have the space.
Daniel. I use a product called Tectyl to seal all my external nuts and bolts. It is like a thick sealer you spray on and it hardens. Nothing gets through it mate. Thanks by the way my Tshirt and patches arrived. Wearing it with pride.
Thanks mate, appreciate the tip and will look into that stuff for future projects! Glad everything arrived, thanks again for your order and for supporting the channel 😁
Your video is perfect timing as looking to do the same with my XTM single compressor. Curious if the Dune air compressor conversation kit works with the XTM compressor?
Should work with any compressor as it's just a simple pressure switch that shuts off the compressor power when the hose gets pressurized, then turns it back on when you hit the trigger and the pressure in the hose drops.
Bianca & Daniel, Love your work! Keep it up! A question. Have you had any issues with water getting in your undertray toolbox and wrecking your air compressor? I have the exact same MRT canopy and Dune compressor and the good people at MRT have advised against installing my air compressor as you have as they say the undertray toolbox is only dust and water resistant and may leak water and kill the compressor. So how is your system performing. Any water leaks? Many thanks, Tim
Hey Tim! No issues with it so far, have been through a few water crossings (nothing too extreme) and some bad weather, so hopefully it continues to work long-term but will report back if I have any issues.
Hey mate great reviews and very thorough. which rtt would you rate higher, the D Dune Nomad 140cm Deluxe Hardtop Rooftop Tent or San Hima Kalbarri Gen 2 ??
They are called Cable Glands, you can get them in plastic, nickel coated brass, and stainless steel, up to something like 75mm diameter, and also oil, gas and chemical resistant, and even explosion proof that can contain explosions. Nothing wrong with the plastic ones as long as you don't over tighten them, or put too much force on them especially laterally.
Hey mate, the compressor is hooked up to my 400Ah lithium battery so no need to have the engine running, that's one of the things I like about this new setup actually 🙂
I have the same manufactured compressor in #toughtear though a different brand stamped on it and it has been flawless for the last 7 years. I would have mounted the compressor on a rubber mat. Looks like you could benefit from a negative busbar.
Please. Please. Please. Crimp your cable lugs as many times as the lug will allow. You have roughly 20mm of lug to use and you’ve just banged one in. You are leaving yourself open to high resistance joins and possible disconnection due to vibration. If you can have more engagement between the cable and the lug, why wouldn’t you? Can I also suggest a hex crimper for lugs? A better tool to use as it evenly distributes the crimp pressure around the whole crimp, ensuring a tighter connection over the cable. It’s a sweet mod. And a tidy install. But please do not glass over the importance of good electrical connections. I’d hate to see the rig and all your hard earned up in flames.
For those playing along at home, technically 1 crimp should be enough, but........ if it isn't there is a good chance at least 1 out of 3 or 4 crimps will be good narrowing the odds of failure or high resistant joints down past negligible. Also don't be afraid to crimp first, and then fill the lug with solder, and also on the anderson lugs.
Yep I've since bought a little trigger head that I can connect to it for blowing out air filters etc, there isn't as much pressure than if it had a tank, but still pretty decent. The compressor is 160LPM so moves a fair amount of air 🙂
They actually don't all have a pressure switch that cuts off the power. Most however do have a pressure relief valve but that'll just pop up and release the extra air pressure. This setup is much better than that.
when using those rubber washers I always like to put a flat washer on top to disperse the pressure a bit better and stop the nut cutting in
Appreciate the tip mate! I actually did use regular washers over all the rubber washers, it’s just a bit hard to see in the footage (and they are a bit smaller than the rubber washers so bigger ones would be been better)
Toolbox is ally so it never hurts to use big washers or even plate to spread the load.They like to crack if you mount heavy things to them.
Nice setup, thanks for sharing and including footage of the smaller details, drilling holes, electrical wiring etc
Great mod, Daniel. Very practical.
I usually put a sealant on the cable glands too where they go through the canopy.
Nice work. From experience, those coil hoses can be a pain after a while. I reckon a few trips and you might want to change it out for a nice rubber one. It's not much work to loop it up when finished.
Nice one. Another good DIY to make 4WD life much easier. Although, I find those rubber washers useless in very tight nut applications. They simply compress and at most times, expand beyond the nut. I found using the gasket type flat washers to be better. But the silicone you added is the best measure to keep your canopy/under tray box weather-proof. I would have also used a bit of it to the inside of the cable glands to ensure it is fully closed.
Yeah, you could see about half of those rubber washers were ready to pop off, and they'll leave the bolts loose when they do leave the chat. You at least needed a bigger regular washer on top of them, but honestly just the silicone should be enough to keep it water tight without the rubber washers.
Hey Dan, did the same thing in my Ute however ran the airline to an external section so I didn’t have to hear the sound of the compressor. Great video as always. It’s nice to see others doing similar to what you’ve done at home.
This is actually pretty tidy mate, well done. I’ve looked at that Dune conversion kit before but was on the fence. This video sold me on it.
Again, well done!!
Thanks mate! 😁
Awesome work and tutorial, as a positive outcome, I do recommend to use some plastic washers on top of the rubber washers this technique will stop the rubber washer to deform wen you applied pressure with the nut
Great work. That coiled air hose looks deceivingly short. It doesn't look long enough to reach the front left tyre, but I'm sure it does.
Was gunna ask the same thing. But good job 👍👏
Thanks mate! Yep reaches all 4 tyres (hose is 7.5m), although the front left only just reaches - I'll see how I go but can always swap over to a longer hose if need be 🙂
Good work Daniel have been wanting to do this with my Dmax for some time now ! Think this might be the next mod 👍🍻
nice install Daniel, looks neat and tidy and professional and functional, cheers
Great install Daniel, love ya work. Just make sure you line the base of those cable glands with a small bead of silicone! Water can still get through them if u did a river crossing etc
thanks for sharing, made it look relatively easy for us plebs :)
You could use shock absorbing rubber under the compressor to cut the noise and the shake on the tool box
I know you used rubber washers to seal the box, but I think you should have also used the rubber foot mounts that you left on the original base. They help a lot with vibration. I used to carry one in the same position in an aluminium box, not plastic, and I was always having to bolt it back together, especially if I had been travelling corrugated roads
Another great video Daniel. Loving the DIY series as always!
Thanks mate appreciate that!
Good set ip Daniel, as usual!
Thanks mate!!
Awesome Vid. Love your content all the way from South Africa. Maybe add some rubber standoffs to isolate some of the vibration noise.
Awesome vid. Great use of space 🤙
Thanks mate!
agree with 99,9999% of work, the only thing I've do different are: a little paint job on the hole to prevent rust, some sikaflex or other RV/marine product instead of normal silicon and an inline fuse ....
You got space for a small air tank too!!!! great cleans and neat setup, really like it , you make it easy and "hard work"
Thanks mate! The tray and canopy are aluminium so rust shouldn't be an issue, but agree sika or something else would have been better than the silicon I had lying around in the garage but hopefully it still seals well enough. (I did also install an inline midi fuse to protect the whole setup) 🙂
Brilliant work!! 👏🏼 thanks for sharing
And the good news is that unless someone can park beside you that you wont be able assist others or pump up trailers now that you are permanently mounted. Im looking to mount my pump on a tray designed for a second battery in the engine compartment of my Triton - able to be removed - maybe just wingnuts. A permanent hose to the grill and rear bumper. Solenoid switch to cabin. Powered by starter battery with engine running with minimal cable run there is no need to open the bonnet to add air - just plug in the hose at front or rear. Dune accessory kit may be needed.
What size compressor were you looking at mounting? The specialized under bonnet compressors seem a bit pricey and I've already got a compressor, be interesting to see what fits.
I have a Bushranger Max Air iii which has a nice metal baseplate like the dune version - its a fair bit more pricy at over $300. I havent measured it yet and dont have the battery mount plate yet but it seems to be about the right size for a smaller battery so the compressor should fit. Not sure I need a tank, or have the space.
Nice install.
Noice - How is your bump steer issue going?? Did you have the MUNJI Lower Control Arm adjustment reinforcement kit fitted ??
Daniel. I use a product called Tectyl to seal all my external nuts and bolts. It is like a thick sealer you spray on and it hardens. Nothing gets through it mate. Thanks by the way my Tshirt and patches arrived. Wearing it with pride.
Thanks mate, appreciate the tip and will look into that stuff for future projects! Glad everything arrived, thanks again for your order and for supporting the channel 😁
Nice, should add small air tank into the space you have left in the tool box
I have an ARB twin compressor. Installed. Been considering an air tank, but how much difference does it make?
Your video is perfect timing as looking to do the same with my XTM single compressor. Curious if the Dune air compressor conversation kit works with the XTM compressor?
Should work with any compressor as it's just a simple pressure switch that shuts off the compressor power when the hose gets pressurized, then turns it back on when you hit the trigger and the pressure in the hose drops.
Should work with any compressor that has a standard nitto-style hose fitting. 🙂
Bianca & Daniel, Love your work! Keep it up! A question. Have you had any issues with water getting in your undertray toolbox and wrecking your air compressor? I have the exact same MRT canopy and Dune compressor and the good people at MRT have advised against installing my air compressor as you have as they say the undertray toolbox is only dust and water resistant and may leak water and kill the compressor. So how is your system performing. Any water leaks? Many thanks, Tim
Hey Tim! No issues with it so far, have been through a few water crossings (nothing too extreme) and some bad weather, so hopefully it continues to work long-term but will report back if I have any issues.
@@explorebound Thanks for the response. Much appreciated. Looking forward to your next video!
Hey mate great reviews and very thorough. which rtt would you rate higher,
the D Dune Nomad 140cm Deluxe Hardtop Rooftop Tent
or San Hima Kalbarri Gen 2 ??
Hey mate, is the air hose going to be able to reach the far opposite tyre?
Great set-up, definitely one worth doing!
Yep reaches all 4 tyres, but only just. I'll see how I go but can always swap to a longer hose if I find it annoying down the track. 🙂
Those little weatherproof hole clamps are nifty, where did you source them?
Bunnings, Supercheap, electrical wholesalers
most sparky supply stores sell them pretty cheap.
Yeah they’re great! I got mine from Bunnings, they’re the 16mm size 🙂
They are called Cable Glands, you can get them in plastic, nickel coated brass, and stainless steel, up to something like 75mm diameter, and also oil, gas and chemical resistant, and even explosion proof that can contain explosions.
Nothing wrong with the plastic ones as long as you don't over tighten them, or put too much force on them especially laterally.
Did you have the motor running
So you don't drain you battery
Might be ok for one tyre but not for four.
Just asking
Thanks for sharing
Hey mate, the compressor is hooked up to my 400Ah lithium battery so no need to have the engine running, that's one of the things I like about this new setup actually 🙂
I have the same manufactured compressor in #toughtear though a different brand stamped on it and it has been flawless for the last 7 years. I would have mounted the compressor on a rubber mat.
Looks like you could benefit from a negative busbar.
Hey mate where do you get the 6bns cable from? Cheers !
Hey mate, I got it from Offroad Living here in WA 🙂
Please. Please. Please. Crimp your cable lugs as many times as the lug will allow. You have roughly 20mm of lug to use and you’ve just banged one in.
You are leaving yourself open to high resistance joins and possible disconnection due to vibration.
If you can have more engagement between the cable and the lug, why wouldn’t you? Can I also suggest a hex crimper for lugs? A better tool to use as it evenly distributes the crimp pressure around the whole crimp, ensuring a tighter connection over the cable.
It’s a sweet mod. And a tidy install. But please do not glass over the importance of good electrical connections. I’d hate to see the rig and all your hard earned up in flames.
For those playing along at home, technically 1 crimp should be enough, but........ if it isn't there is a good chance at least 1 out of 3 or 4 crimps will be good narrowing the odds of failure or high resistant joints down past negligible.
Also don't be afraid to crimp first, and then fill the lug with solder, and also on the anderson lugs.
Didnt bevel the burrs on the holes where your glands were fitted. Rookie error. Thats one way water can enter the box.
Can the hose reach all 4 tyres?
I'm interested in that question also
Yep it can but it’s a stretch, might be worth swapping to a longer hose if it gets annoying, I’ll see 🙂
Might need hose ext to reach the other side tyres?
Yep it can, but only just - might be worth me getting a longer hose in future if it gets annoying, I’ll see how I go 🙂
Would this setup would allow you to run an airboy lets say to blow any dust/dirt out of the cabin? Or is the compressor not strong enough
Yep I've since bought a little trigger head that I can connect to it for blowing out air filters etc, there isn't as much pressure than if it had a tank, but still pretty decent. The compressor is 160LPM so moves a fair amount of air 🙂
What's the point of the dune control module? All compressors have a pressure cutoff switch anyway so the entire module is redundant.
They actually don't all have a pressure switch that cuts off the power. Most however do have a pressure relief valve but that'll just pop up and release the extra air pressure. This setup is much better than that.
Surely that hose isn’t long enough