Your kickback had nothing to do with the Micro Jig Gripper. It was from the fact that you let go of the wood while it was still in contact with the blade when you went to turn off your saw instead of always pushing the wood past the blade before you let go of it. That is just asking for kickback.
As a newish woodworker this was my thoughts. It's simple physics at play here. Fast moving object in contact with an object (wood). The push stick is the "brake" that keeps it from going backwards. Remove the brake and the wood is going to go where the blade sends it. User error on his part 100%.
Not really related to the stuff you talk about but I learned the hard way how to keep wood from kicking back. I was having trouble with my wood getting dark and actually smoking sometimes and I finally realized that my blade was just slightly off parallel which would bind the wood as it went through. I adjusted that to be perfectly straight and I haven't had a problem with that since. I was once cutting a large sheet of plywood and it kicked back into my stomach and actually bruised it before.
With all due respect, let me point out that there are some errors in the execution of the cut. Some movements are erratic and, consequently, dangerous. I’m not sure if you’ve done this intentionally. The piece must be pushed to the right and forward. Do not attempt to turn off the machine while the cut is still in progress. Finish passing the wood completely through. No matter how much experience one has, these are basic things to avoid in order to reduce accidents to the minimum possible. By following this, it will never be necessary to assume an uncomfortable position to avoid kickback, as it simply won’t occur. Best regards!
0:11 That's not a dangerous flaw, that's operator error (built-in complacency) in not following through with the cut past the blade. Also, for tackiness on the Gripper, it's always best to run an abrasive cleaning stick lightly across the gripping pads every now and then for maximum surface friction.
ive put a brand new blade on backwards in the early days and wondered why the wood was wasnt cutting. we all do dumb stuff. its not because we are dumb. its bcoz of the passion is greater than the focus
You don't want kickbacks? Want to never endanger your hands? Rip and Flip. Get rid of the blade guard... get rid of the riving knife... 8' board... rip 4'... flip it over.. .rip the other 4'. Your hands are nowhere near the blade (or for that matter the table)... you never let go of either the off-cut or the finished piece, and you're out of the line of fire. The only catch is your blade has gotta be dead square to the table. Works for any longer rip. Something only as long as the table front to back... then you're back conventional methods. Stay safe!
Need to push the wood piece all the way through the blade during the cut before letting it go. Whether you use the gripper or push stick or anything is irrelevant in this case.
I had the exact same concern about my Microjig not gripping anymore and fashioned my own little gravity doo-da with a piece of walnut and a slot cut into it that, when tightened to the back of the main body of the Microjig, pushes the wood along. I don't know if that makes sense. Oh and I have the exact same Ridgid saw as you. What do you think of yours? Mine is good but took a while to calibrate it properly.
My least favorite tool is my circular saw. For some reason that I cannot explain, that thing scares me to Kingdom Come and back. And, yep - I saw those teeth pointing the wrong direction before the blade even stopped. I don’t think I’ve done that … yet. I did put the flange on backwards once. It’s a good thing that was not a contractor saw, because I would have smoked the belt trying to figure out what was happening. It just makes us human, wether we want to be or not 😬🦸🏻♂️ PS Hello! I’m new to your channel. I’ve already subscribed, I’ve checked out some of your videos, I’ve checked out some of your shorts and I look forward to watching more!!
I hardly ever use a circular saw, not because I'm afraid of it, just find their is usually a better tool. If I dealt with full sheets of plywood more, I would probably find more use for it, since I have neither a track saw or a cabinet [table] saw. I don't deal with full sheets because I don't have a vehicle capable of hauling them.
I have that same Ridgid job site saw. Do you find that your fence is out of alignment sometimes? I regularly measure in two places to make sure the distance is accurate.
rich guy over here with his pennies and nickles. what's next.. quarters for spacers? the stuff people flaunt on youtube now a days! great video, i need to make a crosscut sled do i might have to finally do one with these steps
I never use my microjig. I hate how to use it you have to dangerously reach over the blade. I am dumbfounded that I have never seen a single person complain about that.
The router is definitely my most concerning tool. When you have a bit turning at TWELVE THOUSAND RPM that isn't cutting all the way through material, it becomes kind of concerning.
You're right to never buy a stop block because it's cheaper to make your own. How much was that thin rip gauge? Why didn't you make that? Super simple. I'm not ragging; I make almost everything myself. Aluminum cuts easily with woodworking tools. Thanks.
The heel for the gripper is definitely not a bad way to go, but I would guess your issue with the gripper is your storage and cleaning practices. You're supposed to clean it occasionally and definitely not store it on the green part. Doing those two things should in theory allow the green pad to retain traction
Your kickback had nothing to do with the Micro Jig Gripper. It was from the fact that you let go of the wood while it was still in contact with the blade when you went to turn off your saw instead of always pushing the wood past the blade before you let go of it. That is just asking for kickback.
As a newish woodworker this was my thoughts. It's simple physics at play here. Fast moving object in contact with an object (wood). The push stick is the "brake" that keeps it from going backwards. Remove the brake and the wood is going to go where the blade sends it. User error on his part 100%.
Not really related to the stuff you talk about but I learned the hard way how to keep wood from kicking back. I was having trouble with my wood getting dark and actually smoking sometimes and I finally realized that my blade was just slightly off parallel which would bind the wood as it went through. I adjusted that to be perfectly straight and I haven't had a problem with that since. I was once cutting a large sheet of plywood and it kicked back into my stomach and actually bruised it before.
With all due respect, let me point out that there are some errors in the execution of the cut. Some movements are erratic and, consequently, dangerous. I’m not sure if you’ve done this intentionally.
The piece must be pushed to the right and forward.
Do not attempt to turn off the machine while the cut is still in progress.
Finish passing the wood completely through.
No matter how much experience one has, these are basic things to avoid in order to reduce accidents to the minimum possible.
By following this, it will never be necessary to assume an uncomfortable position to avoid kickback, as it simply won’t occur.
Best regards!
0:11 That's not a dangerous flaw, that's operator error (built-in complacency) in not following through with the cut past the blade. Also, for tackiness on the Gripper, it's always best to run an abrasive cleaning stick lightly across the gripping pads every now and then for maximum surface friction.
ive put a brand new blade on backwards in the early days and wondered why the wood was wasnt cutting. we all do dumb stuff. its not because we are dumb. its bcoz of the passion is greater than the focus
Absolutely! Thanks for the comment.
The Michael Johnson reference alone gets this video a thumbs up 👍
Haha thanks!
You don't want kickbacks? Want to never endanger your hands? Rip and Flip. Get rid of the blade guard... get rid of the riving knife... 8' board... rip 4'... flip it over.. .rip the other 4'. Your hands are nowhere near the blade (or for that matter the table)... you never let go of either the off-cut or the finished piece, and you're out of the line of fire. The only catch is your blade has gotta be dead square to the table. Works for any longer rip. Something only as long as the table front to back... then you're back conventional methods. Stay safe!
Yoda!!! Also, the backwards blade is totally something I would do.
Haha I love integrating Star Wars at random times.
Need to push the wood piece all the way through the blade during the cut before letting it go. Whether you use the gripper or push stick or anything is irrelevant in this case.
I had the exact same concern about my Microjig not gripping anymore and fashioned my own little gravity doo-da with a piece of walnut and a slot cut into it that, when tightened to the back of the main body of the Microjig, pushes the wood along. I don't know if that makes sense. Oh and I have the exact same Ridgid saw as you. What do you think of yours? Mine is good but took a while to calibrate it properly.
Thanks for sharing brother
You're welcome!
My least favorite tool is my circular saw. For some reason that I cannot explain, that thing scares me to Kingdom Come and back.
And, yep - I saw those teeth pointing the wrong direction before the blade even stopped. I don’t think I’ve done that … yet. I did put the flange on backwards once. It’s a good thing that was not a contractor saw, because I would have smoked the belt trying to figure out what was happening. It just makes us human, wether we want to be or not 😬🦸🏻♂️
PS Hello! I’m new to your channel. I’ve already subscribed, I’ve checked out some of your videos, I’ve checked out some of your shorts and I look forward to watching more!!
I only use the circular saw with hearing protection, at least the screaming tool doesn't do a number on my nerves then, which helps.
@
I wear noise canceling headphones and I listen to audiobooks in the house, in the yard and in the shop.
I hardly ever use a circular saw, not because I'm afraid of it, just find their is usually a better tool.
If I dealt with full sheets of plywood more, I would probably find more use for it, since I have neither a track saw or a cabinet [table] saw. I don't deal with full sheets because I don't have a vehicle capable of hauling them.
Thank you for the insight and my cheap circular saw does not give me very much confidence either.
I have that same Ridgid job site saw. Do you find that your fence is out of alignment sometimes? I regularly measure in two places to make sure the distance is accurate.
rich guy over here with his pennies and nickles. what's next.. quarters for spacers? the stuff people flaunt on youtube now a days!
great video, i need to make a crosscut sled do i might have to finally do one with these steps
I have the Milescraft Grabber Pro. It has a “lip” on the end that keeps it on the board.
Great tip!
As far as confidence, tell yourself I got this 👍
Thank you!
Good stuff, silly!
Thank you!
what is the hand saw called you're using
A flush trim saw.
Search for "pull saw"
I never use my microjig. I hate how to use it you have to dangerously reach over the blade. I am dumbfounded that I have never seen a single person complain about that.
The router is definitely my most concerning tool. When you have a bit turning at TWELVE THOUSAND RPM that isn't cutting all the way through material, it becomes kind of concerning.
Absolutely. I feel like I can make 15 cuts with no issues and then number 16 I get a kick.
Are you austrian?
Just use two push sticks
Nervous tool = lathe
My angle grinder makes me a bit nervous
Yeah I can see that.
You're right to never buy a stop block because it's cheaper to make your own.
How much was that thin rip gauge? Why didn't you make that? Super simple.
I'm not ragging; I make almost everything myself. Aluminum cuts easily with woodworking tools. Thanks.
Thank you! I just wanted to try out a the thin rip jig from wood river (which I bought from Woodcraft). Maybe I'll need to make one also!
The heel for the gripper is definitely not a bad way to go, but I would guess your issue with the gripper is your storage and cleaning practices. You're supposed to clean it occasionally and definitely not store it on the green part. Doing those two things should in theory allow the green pad to retain traction
Another tool sale advert masquerading as instruction. WASTE OF TIME .