To all the haters, the route has been aid climbed back in the ages and then bolted and climbed by Igor Koller for the first 3 pitches. Than Pedeferri was freeing all the route without touching or bettering anything. So, you can do 2 things: go, climb it and remove the bolts, or directly ask mr. Koller to do it. A guy called Beat Kammerlander was unsuccessfully trying to repeat the route, by the way... So, you can talk to this people and explain them the ethics, the style or maybe shut up.
This is an amazing video, you really need concentration and trust on a ascent like that,you are very lucky to be a climber god bless your way tkyou for sharing...
all crap! this is one of the hardest routes in the Alps, 22 pitches,that kind of granite eat your fingers, the bolts are far, and if it has never been repeated in seven years, unless some attempt, there is a reason!
@safamels ........ bolted .......Not bolted ! They had fun and its what they wanted to do ! Good on em if they didnt want to cart RP's and a shitload of cams on every pitch ! Trad is purer than sport but then free solo is purer than trad....Bolting a trad line?....Its up to the first ascentionists really hay !!
It doesn't matter how much you train or how many climbing videos you watch. What gives the base for opinion? A video? You don't see how well it protects, how bad would be the runouts or whether it's even worth bringing a rack on a face multipitch just for a couple of short crack sections. The only way you can experience the route is to climb it. And once you do and gave it all you can, i don't know how you can still bother about bolts. It's just seems silly and obsessive.
so your not allowed to talk about ethics unless you climb 5.14 trad? that makes a lot of sense! youre right, i have no ethics until i reach that level. hahaha. i guess ill have to train harder so i can have an opinion on these things... hahahahaha. thanks for your insight!
@degonzoman seriously! wtf? bolts next to the crack? weak ascent... this is the same guy that proposed E12 for a slab he did in the UK, after only repeating two E10s and no E11s. what a joke!! his route was quickly downgraded to E9 by MacLeod (the real hardman in the UK). he sounds incredibly full of himself and obviously has no clue about ethics, considering how much he sprays grades and bolts up cracks.
To all the haters, the route has been aid climbed back in the ages and then bolted and climbed by Igor Koller for the first 3 pitches. Than Pedeferri was freeing all the route without touching or bettering anything. So, you can do 2 things: go, climb it and remove the bolts, or directly ask mr. Koller to do it. A guy called Beat Kammerlander was unsuccessfully trying to repeat the route, by the way... So, you can talk to this people and explain them the ethics, the style or maybe shut up.
Thanks to James, Nico and Richard for the wonderful experience
Pietro
Hey Anna, the song is 'Falling' by Luca Tommasoni
This is an amazing video, you really need concentration and trust on a ascent like that,you are very lucky to be a climber god bless your way tkyou for sharing...
bolts are only necessary on very small parts of the climb..... ive done alot of research on this
bellissimo video complimenti a tutti!
what camera are they using during the climb?
what the hell...22 pitch sport climb? how the hell did they put all those bolts in
@giovanntorres7 GoPro Camera!
all crap! this is one of the hardest routes in the Alps, 22 pitches,that kind of granite eat your fingers, the bolts are far, and if it has never been repeated in seven years, unless some attempt, there is a reason!
Beautiful video, but the bolts! The bolts every two moves! I suppose if it starts raining you can step on the bolts and get up pretty quick!
whats the song for this at the end?
Name of the songs?? please
Bolts next to cracks are B/S
@safamels ........ bolted .......Not bolted ! They had fun and its what they wanted to do ! Good on em if they didnt want to cart RP's and a shitload of cams on every pitch ! Trad is purer than sport but then free solo is purer than trad....Bolting a trad line?....Its up to the first ascentionists really hay !!
It doesn't matter how much you train or how many climbing videos you watch. What gives the base for opinion? A video? You don't see how well it protects, how bad would be the runouts or whether it's even worth bringing a rack on a face multipitch just for a couple of short crack sections. The only way you can experience the route is to climb it. And once you do and gave it all you can, i don't know how you can still bother about bolts. It's just seems silly and obsessive.
so your not allowed to talk about ethics unless you climb 5.14 trad? that makes a lot of sense! youre right, i have no ethics until i reach that level. hahaha. i guess ill have to train harder so i can have an opinion on these things... hahahahaha. thanks for your insight!
@degonzoman seriously! wtf? bolts next to the crack? weak ascent... this is the same guy that proposed E12 for a slab he did in the UK, after only repeating two E10s and no E11s. what a joke!! his route was quickly downgraded to E9 by MacLeod (the real hardman in the UK). he sounds incredibly full of himself and obviously has no clue about ethics, considering how much he sprays grades and bolts up cracks.
less stupid transactions and talking and more climbing would be nice!!!!!!!!!
I love to bike down there climb it without a rope ... seems fairly even ...