Finally a video that explains the European style of scraping! After starting university I quit having oboe lessons. I haven't had the opportunity to learn how to make reeds during my lessons and it caused me to get into a lot of reed trouble the past few years. I have some tools to create reeds but every resource online explains the American style of scraping with the very long scraping windows. I'm not used to those reeds and here in Europe that style is not used at all. So this video is a godsend!
I hope it would be helpful, like I said on a short video it's not possible to cover everything but feel free to reach out if you need some further advice.
The American scrape is impossible; it's really beyond me why anyone would choose such a complicated form. AND, most importantly, the sound of the American scrape is IMHO not very attractive. I greatly prefer the European (German/French) oboe sound.
Really understanding why exactly to add the little wings to the U and make a W of it changes everything: finally vibrations, easier attack of low notes in pp and legato in big intervals! Thank you so much Marin! You are a hero, saving oboists lives!
You are most welcome, I hope it would be useful to anyone. I believe this or similar system is being used everywhere around the world except North America.
@@BeyondOboe absolutely, I started reedmaking not long ago and your video on tying blanks saved so many reed pieces from cracking 😅 What cane are you using? I remember you said it's RC13 Would it be bad to buy 58-59 (I buy gouged and shaped because otherwise $$$)
@@pilotjonny27 oh, I am glad I helped you! I think this thickness is fine, you can always take a bit off with some fine sand paper and make it slightly thinner. I think more important it is to have a good middle to sides ratio. Yes, I use RC13 but I also have 12 and 15.
Fantastic and very helpful video. Thanks very much. The one part I would have like to hear more on is the tuning of the crow, especially with your choice of length. I'll look to see if you have covered this as a follow-on or await it eagerly! Thanks again!
Thanks for your comment, very much appreciated. To be honest I never really cared about the tuning of the crow, what I look for is a specific and rich kind of crow that rings and shows me how the reed vibrates. The real test is always together with the instrument, I think this is a better indicator of how the reed is and what might need to be adjusted. That's my way anyway and I guess also the reason why I didn't say much about it.
Yes! Maybe you should consider write in the description that it is the European style - I think a lot of people want to find videos of someone scraping European style, so it would help to include that in the description...
This is very interesting! I am American, so we use a scrape that goes down the back quite a bit more, but still, this is helpful just to see how you hold the reed and knives and how to make such small adjustments.
Thank you for this video, I think everyone really admires your reedmaking tutorial,but I have a question: When you're removing bark ,how long (mm) are you actually taking and does the form matter(the "U" form)? 17:49 And once you cut the reed at the desire length and you start forming a "U" shape - do you form the "U" on the bark and then you remove the rest of the bark , or are you shaping it on already removed bark? Thank you once again❤ And Merry Christmas as well!🎉🎉
Hi there, thank you for your comment and question. Like I said there is a lot more that could be said about scraping a reed but I am also happy to hear that the demonstration has been somewhat helpful. In regards to the U line (called so because it looks like a U) I show it on the video I make the U line with the knife and then remove the bark. I don't remove the bark before when shaping. On the paper I showed the different scrapes you can have, you can also go for a w or a more flat like and not so much U shaped scrape depending on what you like. I personally like the U shape the most. All best and let me know if things are making sense!
Hey once again! I'm truly glad that you replied! But looking at the video at 15:31 you were removing the bark ,just a tiny bit (maybe like 3-5mm)... Later on at 17:42 (back then you cropped/cut the reed on the desire length) you were measuring "scarping length" and then you started forming the "U" line... But are you forming the "U" line on the bark or are somehow forming it on already removed bark(basically on 15:31)? Sorry once again for very repetitive question - just really want to know on when to form the "U" line like you do! Sincerely, Aurimas
First I take some of the bark so that I can cut it, after that I measure what the length of the scrape should be and then I for the U with the knife and make the scrape.
Wow what a nice video! Thank you very much for all this information! After finishing high school I stopped my oboe lessons because I graduated from the music school and i never learned to scrape my reeds. This video motivates me to pick up the reed making and scraping again! I do have a question about scraping. Can i also scrape more on the side (so more left of more right when holding the reed right in front of you) of the reed? Because i thought by scraping there I did something to the vibration of the reed.. so that's why I am asking just to ne sure if it would do something to my tone or to the vibrations of the reed, or if i could scrape on the side without it having consequences to how the reed sounds?
In this video I could explain in depth I would need a week seminar to do so 😁 still hoping it was helpful! It's important to have a good teacher by your side. Anyway to your question, scraping the sides would make the spine look thicker resulting in a bit more clean sound I would say but It all depends on what kind of gouge you are sitting on. Ideally the scrape should be complementing and working with the gouge.
The cane dry, the Reed I guess in the process of making is a bit wet but honestly I haven't noticed that much of a difference, not that it would totally mess up the readings.
It really depends where exactly you measure the cane to see the thickness of the sides. The dirt thing would be to make sure that they are the same thickness and then to compare to the center. The ratio really influences how the Reed would vibrate. Thinner sides would be something like 0.18mm thinner then the center and thicker would be 0.15mm. I have a micrometer that has a line that I use to measure and also when you look at the profile of the Reed it will tell you approximately how thick the sides are. If you like the cane you have stick with it and start getting aware about there the measures are and if you try another cane you will be able to compare. The best is to gouge yourself so that you have better control of what you would like to have as thickness in the center and on the sides.
I use 46mm staples with M top joints to be at 442. The shaper is a bit on the wider side but not too much as the M2 can handle it well, 7,30 on the top, copy of the Michel 730.
@ Thank you for your response. I have another question. I recently bought a Marigaux M2 oboe. My instrument has pitch issues in the upper octave. The note F is quite flat, while F-sharp and G are too sharp and unstable. I have tried using different reeds, but it hasn’t helped. Could the issue be due to the instrument being new and the sound not yet stabilized, or is it related to the reeds? Also, what shape are you currently using?
@@lamoboe1985 Changing an instrument is always a process, especially changing from another oboe to M2. I changed from M2 to M2 and even in that case I felt in the beginning that the new one wasn't tuned well but that's because I was so used to the old one. Give it some time, they normally turn them pretty well unless you got it from a dealer who changed things. In that case you can ask your dealer but I would advise to first try it as it is and if it's still a problem to tune it. Sounds to me like these notes are typically the way you describe them, the F is flat and the second octave tends to be sharp. Play only the new oboe and make reeds for it and see how it goes, you might find that you will get used to it and it will be fine.
@ Thank you for your response. I really appreciate it. I have been following your channel for a long time, and there are so many useful videos that have helped me improve my oboe playing. Wishing you a New Year filled with health, happiness, and success!
@@BeyondOboe Thank you ! I have a Buffet Crampon Green Line. It is also a good-sounding oboe that allows me to make colours. I am planning to buy an english horn. I will visit Marigaux in Paris to test some of these, but Mönnig is also an option. Which do you consider to be the differences between these two brands ? I like a warm sound that projects well. FYI : I live in Belgium, so I play European oboe style.
@@PinsonAnthony Yes, the Buffet Greenline is pretty good, I like it. Honestly I can only say good things about the Mönnig, their English horn I think is the most reliable and the build quality is superb. It is a good idea to go and test what might suit you best for your needs.
Finally a video that explains the European style of scraping! After starting university I quit having oboe lessons. I haven't had the opportunity to learn how to make reeds during my lessons and it caused me to get into a lot of reed trouble the past few years. I have some tools to create reeds but every resource online explains the American style of scraping with the very long scraping windows. I'm not used to those reeds and here in Europe that style is not used at all. So this video is a godsend!
I hope it would be helpful, like I said on a short video it's not possible to cover everything but feel free to reach out if you need some further advice.
The American scrape is impossible; it's really beyond me why anyone would choose such a complicated form. AND, most importantly, the sound of the American scrape is IMHO not very attractive. I greatly prefer the European (German/French) oboe sound.
Fabulous video! Marin is not only a brilliant oboist but also a fabulous instructor! Thank you!
Thank you 🙏
Really understanding why exactly to add the little wings to the U and make a W of it changes everything: finally vibrations, easier attack of low notes in pp and legato in big intervals! Thank you so much Marin! You are a hero, saving oboists lives!
This is gold for european oboists! Thank you so much :D
You are most welcome, I hope it would be useful to anyone. I believe this or similar system is being used everywhere around the world except North America.
@@BeyondOboe absolutely, I started reedmaking not long ago and your video on tying blanks saved so many reed pieces from cracking 😅
What cane are you using? I remember you said it's RC13
Would it be bad to buy 58-59 (I buy gouged and shaped because otherwise $$$)
@@pilotjonny27 oh, I am glad I helped you! I think this thickness is fine, you can always take a bit off with some fine sand paper and make it slightly thinner. I think more important it is to have a good middle to sides ratio. Yes, I use RC13 but I also have 12 and 15.
@@BeyondOboe ah yes, I like the diagram with showing thin sides. Do you use rigotti cane?
not at the moment but Rigotti is a solid cane
I´m using loads of bamboo chopsticks to stick my reeds on when prepping.
Use them like a mandrel for finishing the reeds.
I have to admit I have done it too especially on reeds for d'amore 😁
Thank you very much, I have done everything step by step to make a reed and it was incredible. Greetings from Chile
Glad it helped! Greeting back to Chile!
Fantastic and very helpful video. Thanks very much. The one part I would have like to hear more on is the tuning of the crow, especially with your choice of length. I'll look to see if you have covered this as a follow-on or await it eagerly! Thanks again!
Thanks for your comment, very much appreciated.
To be honest I never really cared about the tuning of the crow, what I look for is a specific and rich kind of crow that rings and shows me how the reed vibrates. The real test is always together with the instrument, I think this is a better indicator of how the reed is and what might need to be adjusted. That's my way anyway and I guess also the reason why I didn't say much about it.
Yes! Maybe you should consider write in the description that it is the European style - I think a lot of people want to find videos of someone scraping European style, so it would help to include that in the description...
Thanks for the tip
Super Anleitung! Damit habe ich jetzt schon ein paar gut funktionierende Rohre gebaut. Dankeschön!
Das freut mich sehr!
This is very interesting! I am American, so we use a scrape that goes down the back quite a bit more, but still, this is helpful just to see how you hold the reed and knives and how to make such small adjustments.
Thanks, the principals are similar.
Brillant! Really clear instructions step by step! It's super useful. Thank you so much.
Thanks for your videos, they are really interesting!
Glad you like them!
Thank you for this video, I think everyone really admires your reedmaking tutorial,but I have a question:
When you're removing bark ,how long (mm) are you actually taking and does the form matter(the "U" form)?
17:49 And once you cut the reed at the desire length and you start forming a "U" shape - do you form the "U" on the bark and then you remove the rest of the bark , or are you shaping it on already removed bark?
Thank you once again❤
And Merry Christmas as well!🎉🎉
Hi there, thank you for your comment and question. Like I said there is a lot more that could be said about scraping a reed but I am also happy to hear that the demonstration has been somewhat helpful.
In regards to the U line (called so because it looks like a U) I show it on the video I make the U line with the knife and then remove the bark. I don't remove the bark before when shaping. On the paper I showed the different scrapes you can have, you can also go for a w or a more flat like and not so much U shaped scrape depending on what you like. I personally like the U shape the most.
All best and let me know if things are making sense!
Hey once again! I'm truly glad that you replied! But looking at the video at 15:31 you were removing the bark ,just a tiny bit (maybe like 3-5mm)... Later on at 17:42 (back then you cropped/cut the reed on the desire length) you were measuring "scarping length" and then you started forming the "U" line... But are you forming the "U" line on the bark or are somehow forming it on already removed bark(basically on 15:31)?
Sorry once again for very repetitive question - just really want to know on when to form the "U" line like you do!
Sincerely,
Aurimas
First I take some of the bark so that I can cut it, after that I measure what the length of the scrape should be and then I for the U with the knife and make the scrape.
Wow what a nice video! Thank you very much for all this information! After finishing high school I stopped my oboe lessons because I graduated from the music school and i never learned to scrape my reeds. This video motivates me to pick up the reed making and scraping again! I do have a question about scraping. Can i also scrape more on the side (so more left of more right when holding the reed right in front of you) of the reed? Because i thought by scraping there I did something to the vibration of the reed.. so that's why I am asking just to ne sure if it would do something to my tone or to the vibrations of the reed, or if i could scrape on the side without it having consequences to how the reed sounds?
In this video I could explain in depth I would need a week seminar to do so 😁 still hoping it was helpful!
It's important to have a good teacher by your side.
Anyway to your question, scraping the sides would make the spine look thicker resulting in a bit more clean sound I would say but It all depends on what kind of gouge you are sitting on. Ideally the scrape should be complementing and working with the gouge.
Very good video. How do you measure the cane and reed? When wet or dry? I get tremendous different results with my tool...
The cane dry, the Reed I guess in the process of making is a bit wet but honestly I haven't noticed that much of a difference, not that it would totally mess up the readings.
Great grat video!! You talk about a good middle to side ratio. I am using pregouched and profiled cane. Could you giive numbers about this ratio?
It really depends where exactly you measure the cane to see the thickness of the sides. The dirt thing would be to make sure that they are the same thickness and then to compare to the center. The ratio really influences how the Reed would vibrate. Thinner sides would be something like 0.18mm thinner then the center and thicker would be 0.15mm. I have a micrometer that has a line that I use to measure and also when you look at the profile of the Reed it will tell you approximately how thick the sides are. If you like the cane you have stick with it and start getting aware about there the measures are and if you try another cane you will be able to compare. The best is to gouge yourself so that you have better control of what you would like to have as thickness in the center and on the sides.
I also use M2. Could yoiu tell me the length of Staple are you using? What kind of shape are you using ? thank you very much
I use 46mm staples with M top joints to be at 442. The shaper is a bit on the wider side but not too much as the M2 can handle it well, 7,30 on the top, copy of the Michel 730.
@ Thank you for your response. I have another question. I recently bought a Marigaux M2 oboe. My instrument has pitch issues in the upper octave. The note F is quite flat, while F-sharp and G are too sharp and unstable. I have tried using different reeds, but it hasn’t helped.
Could the issue be due to the instrument being new and the sound not yet stabilized, or is it related to the reeds? Also, what shape are you currently using?
@@lamoboe1985 Changing an instrument is always a process, especially changing from another oboe to M2. I changed from M2 to M2 and even in that case I felt in the beginning that the new one wasn't tuned well but that's because I was so used to the old one. Give it some time, they normally turn them pretty well unless you got it from a dealer who changed things. In that case you can ask your dealer but I would advise to first try it as it is and if it's still a problem to tune it. Sounds to me like these notes are typically the way you describe them, the F is flat and the second octave tends to be sharp. Play only the new oboe and make reeds for it and see how it goes, you might find that you will get used to it and it will be fine.
@ Thank you for your response. I really appreciate it. I have been following your channel for a long time, and there are so many useful videos that have helped me improve my oboe playing. Wishing you a New Year filled with health, happiness, and success!
@@lamoboe1985 Very much appreciated thank you! Happy New Year to you too!
it helps alot
Excellent video! I also play on an M2 Marigaux. I am currently using the RC12 shape. What shape do you use?
The RC12 is a great overall shape, probably the most universal, I use it too. Mostly at the moment I use the RC13.
Very interesting for me as a hobby oboe player.
#question: which oboe are you playing with ?
I am happy you found it interesting. I play on a Margaux M2 Oboe.
@@BeyondOboe Thank you ! I have a Buffet Crampon Green Line. It is also a good-sounding oboe that allows me to make colours.
I am planning to buy an english horn. I will visit Marigaux in Paris to test some of these, but Mönnig is also an option. Which do you consider to be the differences between these two brands ? I like a warm sound that projects well.
FYI : I live in Belgium, so I play European oboe style.
@@PinsonAnthony Yes, the Buffet Greenline is pretty good, I like it.
Honestly I can only say good things about the Mönnig, their English horn I think is the most reliable and the build quality is superb. It is a good idea to go and test what might suit you best for your needs.
@@BeyondOboe Thank you very much for your advice ! 🎶
Where can I download the note? Thanks! 🙏🏻
Do you mean the instructions I drew on the paper?
@@BeyondOboe yes 😉 I would like to try it with my daughter in this summer!
I love this video as well.Might it be possible for be to also get a copy of your diagram and measurements?
👍👍👍