Uzbekistondan salom, stanog va dastgohlar aslida zavodda 100%ishlatish uchun tayyor bolishi kerak, biz sotib olib sifatini yaxshilash uchun ishlaymiz.Sanatingizga tasannolar 👏👍.
As a CNC "machinist" you did a really good job. Amazing craftsmanship, you should look into ER collets, surface plates and a belt sander. Cheers from Canada!
Hey, thank you for your kind comment! Yes, a collet chuck and some collets would be great, I have that in mind to :) and yes, a belt sander would make grinding a lot easier... I have to consider that.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Not only did you do it without a mill, You didn;t even have a milling ATTACHMENT !!!!! Outstanding my brother. BTW You handle files like a toolmaker.
Tip from a toolmaker: To check if your tailstock is dead center, turn a piece of stock between centers, if one side is bigger than the other, the allignment is off. Fiddle arround with the tailstock until the runout is at an acceptable level.
I have this machine and I fix small things my grand kids brake. If I need some really precise work done I'll buy a better tool. I believe that buying the right tool in the first place is the better decision. It saves in the long run more money, and more important, time. I have worked with tools like Schaublin 80 years old, some 60 years old English made, some 40 years old Austrian. No one needed any fixing. Once set, only. TLC. Making a Perspex or Al rod of 50mm X 140 um was an easy job. Including silicon rubber machining at room temperature. At any rate, excellent job done in the clip.
well it's a lathe ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
Haha, Thank you! :D I acutally did this in my very first video. I just started and had very little tooling. But after some angry comments about scribing with the calipers I changed to a scriber pen and yes, that's definitely better ;) Thanks for yous comment :)
Nice job. my 1974 bantam comes with factory adjuster screws. For occasional checking, I put an off-cut of silver-steel round in the chuck, slacken the tailstock clamps and adjustments screws and fit the other end of the bar in the tailstock chuck. The two chucks are then parallel, and the adjuster can be moved then tightened in place. I'm a hobby-engineer, so 1/2 a thou is quite good enough for me.
Your videos are VERY well produced and scripted - You should have more subs and views!! These little lathes are fantastic, great value and super for learning to machine on - Better still, as the user's skill improves, then the value engineering of the sub-assemblies of the machine become obvious, but these now become a real life practical machining task for the user, so that the machine can adapt to the user's increased skills!! I absolutely love mine, although I burnt out the DC motor(my fault for overloading the machine and for way too long) on mine - They are great for knocking out small stuff for repair jobs, etc! Keep up the great work.
Thank you! Yes usually I use a center drill too. But in the beginning of the video it was for illustration purposes to show that the tailstock is off center. So just for transporting the message no real work ;)
Again, another very creative way to solve a huge problem. The precision that the parts and modifications that you madr made were just amazing to watch. I look forward to watching more of you video's. I find them to be very relaxing and very educational as well.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I had a friend make me a much wider base for mine out of Stainless Steel. I had him leave off the taper that came with the centering block on the original so I should be able to duplicate part of your set up. I like that reverse counter bore idea also. I drilled 4 holes, two on each side and installed Brass screws to clamp the upper part to the base. It gives just a wee bit of wiggle room for aligning it to the actual center line and clamps it tight. Being a full inch wider at the base makes a huge difference in stability. I sure wish I had more time to devote to the little bugger but I am finding life switches to Warp Speed after 60. Lol! I am looking forward to your next installments.
@@bustednuckles2 thanks :) The wider base is surely a big improvement. The original tailstock stands not very solid on the bed. I considered about a new and wider baseplate too, but that's a bit too much of a project for now. I than went for some extra weight on the tailstock in form of the steel application and the new clamping plates from the underside will hopefully add some extra weight pulling the tailstock down on the machine bed.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Thank you. My minilathe arrived yesterday. I did a bit of playing around and watched your video and did my first proper job with it today.
The start of that video was quite like one of ThisOldTony’s productions! Edit: Now I’ve seen the subscribe bell, it’s definitely in a ThisOldTony style. Great work, and excellent homage :-)
Thank you very much! I have to improvise quite a lot, because I have only this lathe and a drill press. I may took much time but you can still get some good results :)
In the beginning? That's for illustration purposes. Should point out the problem of an uncentered tailstock and lead to the need of a proper way of aligning the tailstock. That's why I used an extra deflecting drill bit in the beginning.
Wonderful and yes I have a Love Hate relationship with most of my currently 9 lathes. 2 from last year were rescue Lathes. FREE? A Raglan 5 and a Super 7 both with gearboxes!!! 30 years in a leaking roofed workshop tells of a different story. I was going to CNC the mini lathe but now do a Capstan version instead. I have a mk 2 Super 7 two more Raglans messy. Emco 8 E. Home made at School. And a Unimat 3. D & L Reading.
I bought two head stocks and three tail stocks trying to improve my mini lathe. If I had all that I spent on this chinese junk I could have bought a better lathe to begin with. My mini now is pretty serviceable. A morse taper test bar is a worth while investment. Thanks
Haha :D that's a massive material consumption :) What have you done to the head stock? A morse taper test bar is something I consider to machine on my little lathe on my own. But not sure yet if this is a good idea :) thanks
Just found your channel subscribed and watched all of your videos and will be looking forward to more in the future Great content from Tulia Texas out on the farm 🚜
But how do you measure if the tailstock is running parrallel ? Maybe a video idea, I've not fond anyone explaining. Thanks for sharing all your ideas, it's inspiring!
I did nothing specific here. Just clamped the cutter tightly with all 3 screws on the 3 jaw chuck. That's not ideal but in this case it worked fine. Last time, I clamped the cutter in the independent 4 jaw chuck and it was pulled out. Here I was lucky the chuck held the cutter tight enough.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter a few years back I bought a morse taper milling Chuck which used to be advertised in model engineer to overcome this problem it was designed for threaded milling cutters which it held very firmly.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter the ER series collet chucks ( new innovations since I bought the other chuck ) seem to hold very firmly & can be obtained at reasonable price from the Far East. Have you noticed how every time you type ‘chuck’ the software capitalises it into Chuck ‘believing’ Chuck to be a person not a tool!
That damn shopvac gets me everytime! I'm watching and really getting into it, then that loud WHIRRRRRR goes off and scares the crap out of me. reminds me of those videos where a mask jumps out and screams haha
Will you add a quick tailstock release. I found the nut the most annoying aspect. I did make a standard quick release cam, but the metal I used is a little soft and bends too easily. The cam needed to be larger diameter. Would like to see your take on a quick release mechanism.
Nice video and nice work, however it would be good to make a final test how it works after modification: just like at the beginning of the video (the same drill bit, similar material, etc.)
Me ha gustado tu trabajo, pulcro y a la antigua, usando la sierra de mano y la lima con maestria. Y como siempre se aprende algo me ha gustado mucho el util para mandrinar la cabeza allen sin salida , una leccion de recursos. Lamento no saber ingles, pero la mecanisca es un lenguaje UNIVERSAL. Repito he disfrutado mucho. Saludos y felicitaciones de un ajustador Jubilado
Nice idea and execution. By the final alignment portion, do you think we need to cyclic align the quill in each extreme positions, full extended vs retracted. As we know that each alignment usually contradicts one another.
What kind of pen are you using for your layout markings? That thing lays down some serious ink and dries quickly. Looks like it works much better than the usual Sharpie.
Hi adjusting the tailstock heightwise isn't that easy. You have to either shim it if it is too low or remove some material if it is to high. Perhaps some day I will scrape the tailstock base in and check for exact height alignment.
I already did that together with a lever clamping modification. You'll see it in my last video. I'm currently working on the final video. Should be ready next weekend.
Hello, my name is Angelo and I am writing from Italy, with the help of an online translator, since the only language I know is mine. I'm writing because I'm willing to perform some of your upgrades on your Mini Lathe, which in some respects, is identical to mine, specifically we have the same tailstock! I too want to make some modifications to my lathe to make it more... precise. Below I will ask you some questions, which I hope you will answer... 1) Minute 01:03 - What are the measures of the iron bar in millimeters? 2) Minute 02:30 - What is the diameter of the milling cutter? 3) Minute 03:19 - What is the GREEK of the sandpaper used? 4) Minute 05:07 - What is the GRANA of the prismatic rod used? 5) Minute 06:39 - Why does he perform this type of machining? For what purpose? 6) Minute 06:59 - Also here.... I repeat the same question as above! 7) Minute 07:25 - What diameter are the holes you are drilling? 8) Minute 07:49 - What is the thread pitch or type? 9) Minute 08:26 - What are the dimensions of the Buttonhole he is milling? 10) Minute 08:56 - What is the diameter of the holes? 11) Minute 09:22 - What is the diameter of the holes? 12) Minute 09:42 - What is the thread pitch or type? 13) Minute 09:57 - What is the diameter of the hole? 14) Minute 10:22 - What is the diameter of the hole? 15) Minute 10:29 - What is the thread pitch or type? 16) Minute 10:40 - What type of cutter did you use? What diameter to make the head seat? 17) Minute 11:22 - What is the diameter of the two holes for inserting the 2 pins? 18) Minute 12:19 - Dimensions of the pins: diameter and length 19) Minute 13:53 - What type of cutter did you use? What diameter to make the head housing? 20) Minute 16:01 - Dimensions of the iron bar 21) Minute 17:12 - Hole size and thread pitch on the SPECIAL NUT. 22) Minute 17:31 - Diameter of hole being drilled And finally I have to congratulate you for the wonderful realization, of an impeccable precision!!! COMPLIMENTS...... I will wait for your, I hope, news! Thanks for your possible help.
Hey, cold bluing uses an acid which turns steel surfaces black in a chemical reaction. The surface has than to be oiled and is now more rust resistant and looks cool black (perhaps sometimes a bit bluish, that's where the name comes from) :) You can also hot blue steel parts by heating them and quenching them in oil afterwards. They will turn black as well.
My mini lathe tailstock has a lever operated lock from the rear and not a big nut at the front, and like many folk I have added my own version of the micro adjuster as sold by Little Machine Shop and others, but mounted at the back. But your modification to lock the top to the base is a great idea rather than access from underneath. If it didn't mean stripping my tailstock and loosing ALL my tailstock settings, I would do a mod the same as yours. The other thing about the tailstock is that height alignment, and parallelism in both planes, can only be achieved by shims. I am sure you could think about a better system than shims. How about that for your next trick?
Hey, thanks! If your tailstock is now fine, don't touch it :) The screw modification isn't a big thing and can be done at any time later. The height and parallelism issues aren't that easy to fix. I already thougt about it, but that's a project for later on. I think, when you won't shim it you could either use some metal coating such as moglice which can be mould between the surfaces or scrape the tailstocks sliding surfaces firmly in and then bore the hole for the quill out on the machine itself. With this, you have the quill exactly in line with the lathe spindel, but off course you need a new quill fitting the now slightly larger hole as well :) I' thinking about eventually doing that some day, but thats a major project not for now...
Uzbekistondan salom, stanog va dastgohlar aslida zavodda 100%ishlatish uchun tayyor bolishi kerak, biz sotib olib sifatini yaxshilash uchun ishlaymiz.Sanatingizga tasannolar 👏👍.
As a CNC "machinist" you did a really good job. Amazing craftsmanship, you should look into ER collets, surface plates and a belt sander. Cheers from Canada!
Hey, thank you for your kind comment! Yes, a collet chuck and some collets would be great, I have that in mind to :) and yes, a belt sander would make grinding a lot easier... I have to consider that.
Not every one is made of money.
@@rogerdeane3608 Kinda why i said look into those tools mate.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Not only did you do it without a mill, You didn;t even have a milling ATTACHMENT !!!!! Outstanding my brother.
BTW You handle files like a toolmaker.
@@rogerdeane3608 collet chucks and belt grinders can be made.
One of the best videos I have seen in a long time, and the blackbird outside thinks so too......10/10.
Thank you so much for your kind comment! I really do appreciate that. Good you listened to the garden birds, it's always relaxing :)
Well done. That's how things were done in the old days when one didn't have all the modern fancy tools.
Thank you very much! Yes you have to improvise a lot, but you'll get good results too :)
Tip from a toolmaker:
To check if your tailstock is dead center, turn a piece of stock between centers, if one side is bigger than the other, the allignment is off.
Fiddle arround with the tailstock until the runout is at an acceptable level.
Someone get this guy a mill stat!
Nicely done, and with limited tooling, thanks for sharing,
Cheers
Haha, thank you Sir! :)
The saying is if you have a lathe you can make any machine in the shop.
Including another lathe. This was a pretty good example.
@@whereswaldo5740 Thanks :)
@@whereswaldo5740 as ThisOldTony said, better lathe than never
@@fourkings7897 😀😁😀
I have this machine and I fix small things my grand kids brake. If I need some really precise work done I'll buy a better tool. I believe that buying the right tool in the first place is the better decision. It saves in the long run more money, and more important, time. I have worked with tools like Schaublin 80 years old, some 60 years old English made, some 40 years old Austrian. No one needed any fixing. Once set, only. TLC. Making a Perspex or Al rod of 50mm X 140 um was an easy job. Including silicon rubber machining at room temperature. At any rate, excellent job done in the clip.
Good logical solution and nice to see traditional bench fitting skills being used in the process.
Thank you very much for your kind comment!
Twenty-two of the most interesting minutes of my week! Congratulations, Sir!
Thank you so much, Sir! All the best
Amazing craftsmanship and ingenuity!
The reverse counter bore worked great!
To be honest, I didn't expect it to work so well for an improvised tool :D It did it's job excellent :)
Hi
I had no idea what this comment meant, and then I saw it and thought "damn, that did work well."
I actually need to do this on an upcoming job. I guess I know how I'm going to do it.
Wow, I learned so much with this video! But I was also really nervous watching you work with long sleeves!🫣
well it's a lathe ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
I like that reverse counterbore tool. That’s awesome!
ua-cam.com/video/biGjAxdJSNw/v-deo.html
Velmi pěkné video a krásně tam na konci zpívají ptáčkové.
The 1st youtube machinist not to pull a scribed line with the tips of the calipers!
Haha, Thank you! :D I acutally did this in my very first video. I just started and had very little tooling. But after some angry comments about scribing with the calipers I changed to a scriber pen and yes, that's definitely better ;) Thanks for yous comment :)
Nice job. my 1974 bantam comes with factory adjuster screws. For occasional checking, I put an off-cut of silver-steel round in the chuck, slacken the tailstock clamps and adjustments screws and fit the other end of the bar in the tailstock chuck. The two chucks are then parallel, and the adjuster can be moved then tightened in place. I'm a hobby-engineer, so 1/2 a thou is quite good enough for me.
Thanks for your comment! That's actually a cool way of quick aligning. I like that, thanks for the tip :)
Токарь, пилил квадрат в тисках, а затем, зажал в патроне! ШЕДЕВРА!
Your videos are VERY well produced and scripted - You should have more subs and views!!
These little lathes are fantastic, great value and super for learning to machine on - Better still, as the user's skill improves, then the value engineering of the sub-assemblies of the machine become obvious, but these now become a real life practical machining task for the user, so that the machine can adapt to the user's increased skills!!
I absolutely love mine, although I burnt out the DC motor(my fault for overloading the machine and for way too long) on mine - They are great for knocking out small stuff for repair jobs, etc!
Keep up the great work.
ua-cam.com/video/biGjAxdJSNw/v-deo.html
Nice job, I always use a center drill before drilling with a tailstock.
Thank you! Yes usually I use a center drill too. But in the beginning of the video it was for illustration purposes to show that the tailstock is off center. So just for transporting the message no real work ;)
What a great project.
Thanks for taking the time to upload.
All the best from Australia.
Hi, thanks for your kind words! :) All the best too
From Uruguay thank you for sharing, I love the tool idea, it is genius. The Mod it is superb, all the best.
Thank you so much for your comment! I really do appreciate it. All the best for you as well
Again, another very creative way to solve a huge problem. The precision that the parts and modifications that you madr made were just amazing to watch.
I look forward to watching more of you video's. I find them to be very relaxing and very educational as well.
A genius concept to overcome the barbaric system they come with and a fantastic execution.
Well done sir!
Thank you so much! I really do appreciate that! Had to laugh about the term "barbaric system" :DD you nailed it! :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I had a friend make me a much wider base for mine out of Stainless Steel. I had him leave off the taper that came with the centering block on the original so I should be able to duplicate part of your set up. I like that reverse counter bore idea also. I drilled 4 holes, two on each side and installed Brass screws to clamp the upper part to the base. It gives just a wee bit of wiggle room for aligning it to the actual center line and clamps it tight.
Being a full inch wider at the base makes a huge difference in stability.
I sure wish I had more time to devote to the little bugger but I am finding life switches to Warp Speed after 60.
Lol!
I am looking forward to your next installments.
@@bustednuckles2 thanks :) The wider base is surely a big improvement. The original tailstock stands not very solid on the bed. I considered about a new and wider baseplate too, but that's a bit too much of a project for now. I than went for some extra weight on the tailstock in form of the steel application and the new clamping plates from the underside will hopefully add some extra weight pulling the tailstock down on the machine bed.
Fantastic videos! Your re-engineering of this inferior machine is incredible!
Really impressed.
I have so much yet to learn.
Thank you very much! :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Thank you.
My minilathe arrived yesterday.
I did a bit of playing around and watched your video and did my first proper job with it today.
the moment this guy gets a mill it's over
Muy Buen trabajo !!! Te felicito!!! Un Saludo desde Argentina 🇦🇷
muchas gracias!
Precise work! Everything turned out perfectly! Good luck!
Thanks!
The start of that video was quite like one of ThisOldTony’s productions! Edit: Now I’ve seen the subscribe bell, it’s definitely in a ThisOldTony style. Great work, and excellent homage :-)
Great idea for milling with the lathe. Great channel mate 👍
Thank you very much my friend!
Endless work on those mini lathes 😅 Great video and content!
Thank you very much! :) You can always make somethin better on this machines:D But if you like that, it's great :)
I understand that it is not only my micro lathe which have this issue. Thx, I'll try something like you!
I think it's a common problem on this lathes. Thanks for your comment.
Hi
Love the camera angle ,I have to bring the level up after watching your channel :)
Thank you very much! :)
That was really satisfying to watch. I can't wait till I get my own lathe and start playing with modifying it. 😁👍
I loved it , new sub , I look forward to looking at your older videos and being alerted when your new videos come out
Thank you very much for your comment! I really do appreciate that. New video is in progress
very nice tool you make for back hole cleaning 👍👍👍
Thank you! :) Was very happy it worked so well in the end :)
Excellent job. Bravo...
Thank you! :)
I never saw someone use his lathe as a CNC bevore
That's just brilliant!
Thank you very much! I have to improvise quite a lot, because I have only this lathe and a drill press. I may took much time but you can still get some good results :)
Top. Nice work. very nice film work.
Thank you very much! I really do appreciate that!
Nice job brother,,👍👍 greeting from Indonesian.. 🙏
Thank you a lot! I really do appreciate that!
Excellent work 👏 this guy had really great passion to work like this.
Thank you very much my friend!
Outstanding & you did it better for sure , will be doing similar to mine including cam lock, thanks for sharing 🙏🏽
Thank you my friend! I'm planning the camlock modification at the moment. It will be the next video.
Nice , I look forward to it , iv seen a few ideas but I bet yours will be better
Nice job!
Compliments off Portugal
Thank you!
This video made me subscribe your channel, and I don't even got a mini lathe... YET! 😅👌🏻
:D Thank you so much!
Good job 👍👍
Thanks!
Good move switching to a short shank for pilot holing. That bit was deflecting a lot.
In the beginning? That's for illustration purposes. Should point out the problem of an uncentered tailstock and lead to the need of a proper way of aligning the tailstock. That's why I used an extra deflecting drill bit in the beginning.
Wonderful and yes I have a Love Hate relationship with most of my currently 9 lathes. 2 from last year were rescue Lathes. FREE? A Raglan 5 and a Super 7 both with gearboxes!!! 30 years in a leaking roofed workshop tells of a different story. I was going to CNC the mini lathe but now do a Capstan version instead. I have a mk 2 Super 7 two more Raglans messy. Emco 8 E. Home made at School. And a Unimat 3. D & L Reading.
Last take very nice 👍
Well done. That is a cool project.
Thank you! Really do appreciate that!
I bought two head stocks and three tail stocks trying to improve my mini lathe.
If I had all that I spent on this chinese junk I could have bought a better lathe to begin with.
My mini now is pretty serviceable.
A morse taper test bar is a worth while investment.
Thanks
Haha :D that's a massive material consumption :) What have you done to the head stock? A morse taper test bar is something I consider to machine on my little lathe on my own. But not sure yet if this is a good idea :) thanks
Just found your channel subscribed and watched all of your videos and will be looking forward to more in the future
Great content from Tulia Texas out on the farm 🚜
Thank you so much!! That makes me really happy! :)
Awesome work 👏💯
بارك الله في رجل عمل عملا واتقنه
You like perfection work
Really cool mod
Thank you!
But how do you measure if the tailstock is running parrallel ? Maybe a video idea, I've not fond anyone explaining. Thanks for sharing all your ideas, it's inspiring!
Thanks for your kind comment! What would you have explained exactly? I think I didn't get it yet
I always ask, as far as mini lathes what do you think the best buy is?
How do you manage to prevent the milling cutter ‘walking’ it’s way out of the 3 jaw chuck ?
I did nothing specific here. Just clamped the cutter tightly with all 3 screws on the 3 jaw chuck. That's not ideal but in this case it worked fine. Last time, I clamped the cutter in the independent 4 jaw chuck and it was pulled out. Here I was lucky the chuck held the cutter tight enough.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter a few years back I bought a morse taper milling Chuck which used to be advertised in model engineer to overcome this problem it was designed for threaded milling cutters which it held very firmly.
@@pcka12 That would be a good solution as well. Have to calculate what's cheaper in the end :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter the ER series collet chucks ( new innovations since I bought the other chuck ) seem to hold very firmly & can be obtained at reasonable price from the Far East.
Have you noticed how every time you type ‘chuck’ the software capitalises it into Chuck ‘believing’ Chuck to be a person not a tool!
That damn shopvac gets me everytime! I'm watching and really getting into it, then that loud WHIRRRRRR goes off and scares the crap out of me. reminds me of those videos where a mask jumps out and screams haha
Sorry for that! I'll try not to do that anymore ;)
Thank's for watching anyway! :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I wasn't complaining, just thought it was funny! I love your videos, so no worries!
What lathe is this?
Will you add a quick tailstock release. I found the nut the most annoying aspect. I did make a standard quick release cam, but the metal I used is a little soft and bends too easily. The cam needed to be larger diameter. Would like to see your take on a quick release mechanism.
Hey, I'm currently working on it. Camlock mechanism for clamping the tailstock. The nut and bolt is really annoying.
Nice video and nice work, however it would be good to make a final test how it works after modification: just like at the beginning of the video (the same drill bit, similar material, etc.)
Me ha gustado tu trabajo, pulcro y a la antigua, usando la sierra de mano y la lima con maestria. Y como siempre se aprende algo me ha gustado mucho el util para mandrinar la cabeza allen sin salida , una leccion de recursos. Lamento no saber ingles, pero la mecanisca es un lenguaje UNIVERSAL. Repito he disfrutado mucho.
Saludos y felicitaciones de un ajustador Jubilado
Nice idea and execution. By the final alignment portion, do you think we need to cyclic align the quill in each extreme positions, full extended vs retracted. As we know that each alignment usually contradicts one another.
😂😂
beautiful🎉
Thanks!
Super great job. I may do the same thing to my mini lathe tailstock, If you don't mind me using your design.
Thanks for your comment! Feel free to copy:)
The main captive adjustment screw, was that 8mm? or 6mm? Love all the close up photography, but it messes with my sense of scale.
Hi and thanks for your comment! It is M6. Yes, everything looks bigger on the videos as it is in reality :)
Good anb elegant job!!
Thank you very much!
What kind of pen are you using for your layout markings? That thing lays down some serious ink and dries quickly. Looks like it works much better than the usual Sharpie.
That is an old permanent marker, don't know which brand it was.
amazing!!!! great job!!
Thank you my friend!
Great job!
🖒
Thank you!
what about the height, horizontal and vertical adjustment, I'm very curious about this
Hi adjusting the tailstock heightwise isn't that easy. You have to either shim it if it is too low or remove some material if it is to high. Perhaps some day I will scrape the tailstock base in and check for exact height alignment.
Love the reverse counter bore trick.
Yes, it was definitely worth the extra tool built. Worked quite well.
Thanks for sharing !
Thank you!
Спасибо,теперь есть примерное понимание решения этой проблемы!
nice work, I've made similar thing on my mini lathe tailstock :)
Hi, thanks! Now watched your video, really pretty the same thing. Seems to work fine too. Good work :)
Great job
Thank you :)
Spitzenarbeit! Das Video hat mir sehr gut gefallen.
Vielen Dank, das freut mich sehr! Danke für die Rückmeldung :)
Make yourself a bigger t-nut to go under that tailstock; it's easy and way more comfortable to use.
I already did that together with a lever clamping modification. You'll see it in my last video. I'm currently working on the final video. Should be ready next weekend.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I look forward to it!
Great job, I've also done something similar to my tail stock, but not as good as yours.
Thank you! That's a modification quite worthwhile I think :)
Hello, my name is Angelo and I am writing from Italy, with the help of an online translator, since the only language I know is mine.
I'm writing because I'm willing to perform some of your upgrades on your Mini Lathe, which in some respects, is identical to mine, specifically we have the same tailstock!
I too want to make some modifications to my lathe to make it more... precise.
Below I will ask you some questions, which I hope you will answer...
1) Minute 01:03 - What are the measures of the iron bar in millimeters?
2) Minute 02:30 - What is the diameter of the milling cutter?
3) Minute 03:19 - What is the GREEK of the sandpaper used?
4) Minute 05:07 - What is the GRANA of the prismatic rod used?
5) Minute 06:39 - Why does he perform this type of machining? For what purpose?
6) Minute 06:59 - Also here.... I repeat the same question as above!
7) Minute 07:25 - What diameter are the holes you are drilling?
8) Minute 07:49 - What is the thread pitch or type?
9) Minute 08:26 - What are the dimensions of the Buttonhole he is milling?
10) Minute 08:56 - What is the diameter of the holes?
11) Minute 09:22 - What is the diameter of the holes?
12) Minute 09:42 - What is the thread pitch or type?
13) Minute 09:57 - What is the diameter of the hole?
14) Minute 10:22 - What is the diameter of the hole?
15) Minute 10:29 - What is the thread pitch or type?
16) Minute 10:40 - What type of cutter did you use? What diameter to make the head seat?
17) Minute 11:22 - What is the diameter of the two holes for inserting the 2 pins?
18) Minute 12:19 - Dimensions of the pins: diameter and length
19) Minute 13:53 - What type of cutter did you use? What diameter to make the head housing?
20) Minute 16:01 - Dimensions of the iron bar
21) Minute 17:12 - Hole size and thread pitch on the SPECIAL NUT.
22) Minute 17:31 - Diameter of hole being drilled
And finally I have to congratulate you for the wonderful realization, of an impeccable precision!!! COMPLIMENTS...... I will wait for your, I hope, news! Thanks for your possible help.
Just done this to my mini lathe, need to find a couple of bits j have "misplaced"
Nice
Regards from indonesia
Thanks, best regards!
What kind of drill bit was at 10:39 ???
piloted couterbore
Cold bluing? 👍
Hey, cold bluing uses an acid which turns steel surfaces black in a chemical reaction. The surface has than to be oiled and is now more rust resistant and looks cool black (perhaps sometimes a bit bluish, that's where the name comes from) :) You can also hot blue steel parts by heating them and quenching them in oil afterwards. They will turn black as well.
So inspiring
Thank you :)
Isso sim é um bom profissional parabéns
Thank you :)
That sadness when i notice your tungsten chip @12:28 :/ great work though!
nice video.
nice content.
nice results.
perfect 😁
Thank you very much! :)
Very good job!
🇧🇷
Thank you very much! :)
Do you have plans for this mod available? The video is nice, but I don’t need the techniques. Thanks in advance!
Kreatif dan canggih luar biasa ,, 👍 om ,,,
Awesome job! Your drill bit may need sharpening, if not honing. Keep up the good work.
Thank you ;)! Yes, some of my drillbits would need some care:)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Oh, it's understandable...specially when you're having fun.
@@eddietowers5595 ;)
good job bro
Thank you!
Most excellent
Ótimo trabalho. Vc é um artista.
Мой ученик.
Well Done
Thanks!
Great work! How about improving chuck/collet mounting? An ER32 collet is really useful for milling and work holding :)
Thank you! Good point. I think about that. Have to look whats on the market for low budget.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Better watch Rolingmetal's video's on cheap ER32 collet chucks first. You'll save yourself some pain.
@@ianhaylock7409 Haha :D
Spettacolare 👏👏👏
My mini lathe tailstock has a lever operated lock from the rear and not a big nut at the front, and like many folk I have added my own version of the micro adjuster as sold by Little Machine Shop and others, but mounted at the back. But your modification to lock the top to the base is a great idea rather than access from underneath. If it didn't mean stripping my tailstock and loosing ALL my tailstock settings, I would do a mod the same as yours. The other thing about the tailstock is that height alignment, and parallelism in both planes, can only be achieved by shims. I am sure you could think about a better system than shims. How about that for your next trick?
Hey, thanks! If your tailstock is now fine, don't touch it :) The screw modification isn't a big thing and can be done at any time later. The height and parallelism issues aren't that easy to fix. I already thougt about it, but that's a project for later on. I think, when you won't shim it you could either use some metal coating such as moglice which can be mould between the surfaces or scrape the tailstocks sliding surfaces firmly in and then bore the hole for the quill out on the machine itself. With this, you have the quill exactly in line with the lathe spindel, but off course you need a new quill fitting the now slightly larger hole as well :) I' thinking about eventually doing that some day, but thats a major project not for now...