Great build. I just put the same upgrade kit to my TJ. The only thing I can tell is you have the zerk fitting facing down on the lower passenger side control arm. This is suppose to be facing up so you or who ever owns the jeep goes 4 wheeling they won't demolishe the fitting. Take care.
Thanks, I had to close down shop because of outside factors but I’m in the process of building a 30x120ft shop so I’ll get back to creating vids when I’m settled in 👍🏻
Change the angle so the spring and bump stop are actually pointed at the axle mount vs like 30° pointing back which puts the bump stops at a undesirable angle when they contact the axle, stock suspension at stock height, the mounts where designed for that, the more you lift your Jeep the more the geometry changes and in turn the farther away the stock mount is from optimal geometry
Pretty sure I did this at the same time I was installing the 6in RC long arm kit so I didn’t get a direct A to B comparison on height only changing that one factor, from how much the mount moved height wise on the frame I’d say no more that +or- 1/4-1/2in maybe
Seeing how Jeep has had recalls specifically for frame welding issues on tj’s(even though this is a LJ) I personally trust my welds more than a robot, second the stock control arms are about a foot long so the arch of the axle swing is small changes drastically, that geometry works fine at stock height, when you lift the Jeep the geometry changes and the angle of the spring mount starts to make less sense, when you go to the long arm kit the angle difference from full compression to full extension changes far less than the stock geometry so why not relocate the spring mount to a spot that better correlates with the new suspension geometry. This also aligns the bump stops straight up and down, stock I’d say is about a 25-30° angle so if you put bump stop extensions with a big lift it aims the bump stops at the middle of the spring instead of the axle and I’ve seen bump stops break off because the axle is hitting a polyurethane cylinder at an angle steep enough that it’s easier for it to deflect to the side instead of hitting it head on and absorbing the impact
6in RC long arm and idk why it looks like that but I set the pinion parallel with the driveshaft because I’m sure you know the top 2 joints of a double cardan cancel each others angles out so the single u-joint at the diff should be set at 0°
Great build. I just put the same upgrade kit to my TJ. The only thing I can tell is you have the zerk fitting facing down on the lower passenger side control arm. This is suppose to be facing up so you or who ever owns the jeep goes 4 wheeling they won't demolishe the fitting. Take care.
NEED MORE CONTENT your pretty damn good with only have 4 vids
Thanks, I had to close down shop because of outside factors but I’m in the process of building a 30x120ft shop so I’ll get back to creating vids when I’m settled in 👍🏻
Nice. What long arm kit is that in the rear?
Nice job, keep up the videos.
Whats was the point of removing the mounts then reinstalling them?
Change the angle so the spring and bump stop are actually pointed at the axle mount vs like 30° pointing back which puts the bump stops at a undesirable angle when they contact the axle, stock suspension at stock height, the mounts where designed for that, the more you lift your Jeep the more the geometry changes and in turn the farther away the stock mount is from optimal geometry
How much does that lift the rear end?
Pretty sure I did this at the same time I was installing the 6in RC long arm kit so I didn’t get a direct A to B comparison on height only changing that one factor, from how much the mount moved height wise on the frame I’d say no more that +or- 1/4-1/2in maybe
I didn't get the reason to do this job. Honestly, I would trust more the quality of original Jeep/Chrysler factory welding.
hes fixing the angle of the springs after the long arm kit, nothing to do with the weld quality.
It will add a little extra lift with the spring now straight
Seeing how Jeep has had recalls specifically for frame welding issues on tj’s(even though this is a LJ) I personally trust my welds more than a robot, second the stock control arms are about a foot long so the arch of the axle swing is small changes drastically, that geometry works fine at stock height, when you lift the Jeep the geometry changes and the angle of the spring mount starts to make less sense, when you go to the long arm kit the angle difference from full compression to full extension changes far less than the stock geometry so why not relocate the spring mount to a spot that better correlates with the new suspension geometry. This also aligns the bump stops straight up and down, stock I’d say is about a 25-30° angle so if you put bump stop extensions with a big lift it aims the bump stops at the middle of the spring instead of the axle and I’ve seen bump stops break off because the axle is hitting a polyurethane cylinder at an angle steep enough that it’s easier for it to deflect to the side instead of hitting it head on and absorbing the impact
Nice job but it looks like your pinion angle was not pointing up towards the T case? How much lift do you have ?
6in RC long arm and idk why it looks like that but I set the pinion parallel with the driveshaft because I’m sure you know the top 2 joints of a double cardan cancel each others angles out so the single u-joint at the diff should be set at 0°