Great video! I’ve done hundreds of brake jobs in my life. Your video and tips helped me easily change brake pads/rotors on daughters car. Thanks for another helpful video.
hey Jim I'm a tech too luv my job i wasn't do anything else always wanted to be a auto tech it's my dream job I'm so glad to finally find someone who is as passionate bout the job as me. I'm big fan of yours all the way from Ireland keep rockin
Thanks for your awesome video. I've been doing break jobs since I was pretty young...but with all this newer cars out I like to see the videos like yours to ensure I don't screw something up. I'll be replacing my daughters rotors and breaks pads this weekend and your video has definitely given me the peace of mind to know it's a pretty simple job. THANKS
Thank you for watching and your feedback.If you run into any problem let me know I should be able to talk you through.Let me know how the job turns out.
The job was probably one of the easiest I've ever done...Recently has surgery on my left shoulder and probably shouldn't have been doing it along but it was for my daughter who had worn them down to nothing...metal to metal was not pretty. I did find that the caliper bolt was a 14mm on her car not a 13mm...other than that everything went very smoothly. Thanks for your helpful video once again.
Thanks for another informative video. It's amazing no dealership or shop ever wants to just change the pads. NEVER. they want you to change the rotors with the pads even tho their is NOTHING wrong with them. why? because they want to charge you $300. instead of $100. even a car a couple years old getting its first brake replacement, they tell you you need new rotors regardless. most times if you havent run the pads to the rivets all you need is a good fine steel wool scruffing on the surface and a wire wheel to knock the rust off the cooling vents. as long as they arent warped you shouldn't need new rotors.
great video,i tried to replace my pads today, but when i saw the back of my rotors there was no way i could do it, there was no surface just rust,one thing, when doing the driver side what can i do to get leverage on those 17mm bolts ,i cant get the car that high on a jack
Hi Jim the Elantra u worked on I’m doing the dust shield on the rear can you tell me if I remove the wheel bearing do I have to remove the abs or I don’t have too
Thank you for posting this one! I just did the front brakes and rotors on my 2012 Elantra. Thank you for the tip on hitting those two rotor retainer screws with a drift! I had one that gave me a hard time but eventually I got it out. I may invest in the hand driver. Do you have a video on how to do the rears on a 2012 Elantra?
+N72Pilot Thanks for watching and your feedback.This is a video I have for rear brakes on a Hyundai but its a Santa fee ua-cam.com/video/oegacaeJn98/v-deo.html
N72Pilot clarification question, i have an elantra 2012, and I'm replacing the rotors this weekend. .is the replacement process different for the rear than the front?
Replacing brake clips is a good idea, mentioning which grease to use would be a good idea, using a torque wrench and follow specs is would be a good idea, also mentioning to pump the brake pedal 7-10 times before leaving with your car is a MUST to protect your ego and possibly an accident. If you have never changed brakes before look at more than one video. This one is good, but not perfect. Brakes are simple to replace, but they can save your life
Inspected brake pads on my 2013 Elantra. Pads have 25-30% remaining and even wear. However noticed a raised lip on the rotor edge, made it difficult to slide the pads off. Saw this same raised lip in this video. Recommend to cut down that lip now, or when pads are changed? You replaced the rotor without measuring rotor thickness, really required to replace because of this rust lip? -thx
thank you for the video jim...the whole procedure looks routine and i wanted a refresher before doing my girl friends hynudai. it is the same as my pontiac grand prix. what do you think of the brake anti squeal glue that they sell to put on the back of the pads? thanks again.
jimthecarguy I change my wife's rotors and brakes yesterday. The trick you taught for the two Phillips set screws did the job. I would've been in trouble otherwise.
I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra and noticed the squealing noise, I replaced the brake pads cause they were bad but even with the new ones the noise still happens, my rotors looked fine by the way. But like when I first start the vehicle it doesn't make any noise, but after driving for like a half an hour or if I drive on the expressway at like 70-75 mph the squealing noise is very noticeable, especially after getting off the expressway, and going back down to only like 35-45 mph, any idea what it is?
jimthecarguy Thank you! Great video! It was very thorough. I would even go as far as saying your video is the "gold standard" for front caliper maintenance. I didn't know there was a brake grease for the metal shims.
In hindsight, I wish I would have found your video before I did my daughters '13 Elantra. What advice can you give for removing the two rotor screws, after some bonehead stripped them? Yes, it was me. Thanks
Thanks for the info. I drilled out the head and was able to get the rotor off and new one on. However, do I need to worry about getting the screws completely removed and installing new ones? That might be a bit more of a challenge.
The main thing is that you have to drill out most of the bolt so that it is not sticking up and interfering with the installation of the rotor.You don't have to install new bolts you can leave them off.
I actually had asked the place I get my oil done to take a look and he said it just the cheap pads I put in everything is ok, they still make noise after all this time ,i'll get better pads next time
mine make the same sound on the right side only when I am lightly pressing on the brakes. I replaced them with all new parts and it still does it on the right side. I suspect this is a Hyundai problem. We have 2008 and 2015 Elantras and they both do it.
On my wife's ,same car by the way,i replaced the front pads only,and it makes the sound but ,much lower,im thinking the cheap amazon pads I used is the culprit
Good video, 3 issues, however. 1. Your shot was below camera viewing 2. you didn't use any lube on the outside of the pads to prevent noise 3. never use the new pads to compress piston, also you can use basic large channel locks to compress.
Good morning Jim, It's René Warren again with a question. But first off I just want to say thanks once again for all the great videos. So onto my question but a little back story to help explain it. I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra with 104,000km (64,000miles) as 90% of them KM's are highway miles. ( and I'm the only driver of every one of them KM) Q1- do you think I need to flush my ATF fluid right now or can it wait? If so at how may KM should I flush it. Q2- my car calls for Hyundai ATF SP-lV and here in Canada the dealer is asking $60 per Litre. Do you know of an after market brand/ type that is equal to the ATF fluid I just mentioned. I can't seem to find any that says SP-lV and I just don't want to use any brand that the young guys say at a NAPA store or where ever I may go. I'm looking to you as your the pro and I have a ton of respect for what you suggest.
Adam hi I am a hyundai tech at the dealership if you do not have a lift the jim and my self you can do this job with a floor jack and 2 jack stands on most cars there is a pinch weld its a thick piece of metal made for jacking up the car if you look in the owners manual most of the manuals have a picture of them the round sadle part of the floor jack goes right under that hope this helps
No...why didnt you? Put a lil on the inside of the rotors and threads on the lug nut bolts and on the ends of the pads where they slide in on the calipers. And that god forsaking rotor screws to help them not rust up.
Great video, but caliper bracket bolts MUST be torqued to spec. not just hand tightened. That is very important from a safety perspective...could be disastrous if they're not tight enough or overtight. Also, like someone said...silicone crease on caliper slides...not moly or whatever that black crap is. But better the wrong grease than no grease. I've seen many neglected slides. Most shops don't even touch the slides.
Great video! I’ve done hundreds of brake jobs in my life. Your video and tips helped me easily change brake pads/rotors on daughters car. Thanks for another helpful video.
What a great way of explaining each and every steps . Really appreciate. Great video
+Anish Peter Thank you for your feedback and for watching.
hey Jim I'm a tech too luv my job i wasn't do anything else always wanted to be a auto tech it's my dream job I'm so glad to finally find someone who is as passionate bout the job as me. I'm big fan of yours all the way from Ireland keep rockin
Thanks for your awesome video. I've been doing break jobs since I was pretty young...but with all this newer cars out I like to see the videos like yours to ensure I don't screw something up. I'll be replacing my daughters rotors and breaks pads this weekend and your video has definitely given me the peace of mind to know it's a pretty simple job. THANKS
Thank you for watching and your feedback.If you run into any problem let me know I should be able to talk you through.Let me know how the job turns out.
The job was probably one of the easiest I've ever done...Recently has surgery on my left shoulder and probably shouldn't have been doing it along but it was for my daughter who had worn them down to nothing...metal to metal was not pretty. I did find that the caliper bolt was a 14mm on her car not a 13mm...other than that everything went very smoothly. Thanks for your helpful video once again.
Thank you for the update .Great job.
Very clear and concise video. Good camera and explanations. Learned lots. Thanks
+Rod Babiuk I'm happy to share my knowledge.
So grateful for the clear instruction, I signed up w/ gmail just to post this comment. Thanks Jim! ...also a 2012 Hyundai elantra
Thank you for watching and your feedback.
I just use a C-clamp and the old brake pad to open the piston all the way. Very helpful vid!
I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching
Thanks Jim, I have a '13 Elantra and this was a big help, especially the trick to loosen the screws on the rotor.
Great I'm happy to help
Thanks for another informative video. It's amazing no dealership or shop ever wants to just change the pads. NEVER. they want you to change the rotors with the pads even tho their is NOTHING wrong with them. why? because they want to charge you $300. instead of $100. even a car a couple years old getting its first brake replacement, they tell you you need new rotors regardless. most times if you havent run the pads to the rivets all you need is a good fine steel wool scruffing on the surface and a wire wheel to knock the rust off the cooling vents. as long as they arent warped you shouldn't need new rotors.
Good day Jim,
Thank you so much for the great set by set video on changing the brakes. Have a bless day.
Does the break piston automatically retract or do you have to do something to bring the piston back to normal position before driving away.
+Rene Warren After the brakes are reinstalled on the car you pump the brakes a few times this will reset the piston.
+jimthecarguy thanks for the quick reply. You videos have helped me out a ton. Thanks from Alberta Canada
great video,i tried to replace my pads today, but when i saw the back of my rotors there was no way i could do it, there was no surface just rust,one thing, when doing the driver side what can i do to get leverage on those 17mm bolts ,i cant get the car that high on a jack
The longer the ratchet the better that will give you more leverage.
hammer and wrench
Hi Jim the 2013 Elantra that u work on I was wondering if the front wheel bearing are magnetic for a ABS sensor
Are the front and back rotors the same I got a box of 4 doesn’t indicate a difference
does matter if that wear indicator is on top or bottom, i may have mixed it up, i have a low pitch grinding when braking
Really nicely done, great job!
+macdp1 Thank you for watching and your feedback
Hi Jim the Elantra u worked on I’m doing the dust shield on the rear can you tell me if I remove the wheel bearing do I have to remove the abs or I don’t have too
My Elantra is a 2013 like the one you have on the video
Are the rear brakes very similar? On a 2013 Hyundai Elantra
Are the rear brakes largely the same process?
Where exactly where you applying pressure to release the piston ?
Hi i have a 2013 also i will be changing the front rotors and pads also im concerned about the caliper its not leaking but its rusty
As long as it is not leaking you should be good.
Thank you Jim
need to replace my hyundai 2014 accent gls brake pads and rotors...is the same way you did for elantra
+Nilay Patel Yes it is the same.If you need anything let me know.
And why arnt u using silicone greese on the pins??
Really great video instruction. You covered everything so well! Thanks
Thank you for stopping by the shop.
perfect explanation. simple and clear, I like it.
Thank you for watching and your feedback.
very comprehensive- thanks man!
+Bruce D I hope my video was helpful. Thank you for your feedback.
Thank you for posting this one! I just did the front brakes and rotors on my 2012 Elantra. Thank you for the tip on hitting those two rotor retainer screws with a drift! I had one that gave me a hard time but eventually I got it out. I may invest in the hand driver. Do you have a video on how to do the rears on a 2012 Elantra?
+N72Pilot Thanks for watching and your feedback.This is a video I have for rear brakes on a Hyundai but its a Santa fee ua-cam.com/video/oegacaeJn98/v-deo.html
N72Pilot clarification question, i have an elantra 2012, and I'm replacing the rotors this weekend. .is the replacement process different for the rear than the front?
When replacing the brake pads, do you also need to replace the brake clips?
Pedro Napoles Yes. I try to always replace the clips at my shop
Replacing brake clips is a good idea, mentioning which grease to use would be a good idea, using a torque wrench and follow specs is would be a good idea, also mentioning to pump the brake pedal 7-10 times before leaving with your car is a MUST to protect your ego and possibly an accident. If you have never changed brakes before look at more than one video. This one is good, but not perfect. Brakes are simple to replace, but they can save your life
Inspected brake pads on my 2013 Elantra. Pads have 25-30% remaining and even wear. However noticed a raised lip on the rotor edge, made it difficult to slide the pads off. Saw this same raised lip in this video. Recommend to cut down that lip now, or when pads are changed? You replaced the rotor without measuring rotor thickness, really required to replace because of this rust lip? -thx
Yes they were replaced because of the rust lip.Thank for watching.
thank you for the video jim...the whole procedure looks routine and i wanted a refresher before doing my girl friends hynudai. it is the same as my pontiac grand prix. what do you think of the brake anti squeal glue that they sell to put on the back of the pads? thanks again.
Your video didn't show or you didn't say which slider pin went where
Great video, and a great teacher!
John Jenkins thank you for stopping by the shop
jimthecarguy I change my wife's rotors and brakes yesterday. The trick you taught for the two Phillips set screws did the job. I would've been in trouble otherwise.
John Jenkins great job thank you for stopping by the shop
I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra and noticed the squealing noise, I replaced the brake pads cause they were bad but even with the new ones the noise still happens, my rotors looked fine by the way. But like when I first start the vehicle it doesn't make any noise, but after driving for like a half an hour or if I drive on the expressway at like 70-75 mph the squealing noise is very noticeable, especially after getting off the expressway, and going back down to only like 35-45 mph, any idea what it is?
PdippProductions I get the exact same problem with my 2013 Elantra GT
Nice video but you didn't show or say which slide pin went where
Why does that pin have an o ring?
Thanks for watching
How do you know you have the right brake pad grease? Do you have a preferred name brand?
+CincyPlasmaTech The one I use at the shop is synthetic brake and caliper grease made by CRC
jimthecarguy Thank you! Great video! It was very thorough. I would even go as far as saying your video is the "gold standard" for front caliper maintenance. I didn't know there was a brake grease for the metal shims.
+CincyPlasmaTech Oh ya ,That silicone grease is very important to let the brakes slide without binding.Thank for watching and you feedback.
In hindsight, I wish I would have found your video before I did my daughters '13 Elantra. What advice can you give for removing the two rotor screws, after some bonehead stripped them? Yes, it was me. Thanks
The only way to get them out then is to drill out the screw.Be careful not to drill to far.Do you want to call me I can explain better?
Thanks for the info. I drilled out the head and was able to get the rotor off and new one on. However, do I need to worry about getting the screws completely removed and installing new ones? That might be a bit more of a challenge.
The main thing is that you have to drill out most of the bolt so that it is not sticking up and interfering with the installation of the rotor.You don't have to install new bolts you can leave them off.
Great video very well explained
+robert Diamond Thank you for your feedback and for watching.
i just checked the indicators are on top were they should be , still have that grinding
indicators will squeak not grind, screamers is what I call them
I actually had asked the place I get my oil done to take a look and he said it just the cheap pads I put in everything is ok, they still make noise after all this time ,i'll get better pads next time
mine make the same sound on the right side only when I am lightly pressing on the brakes. I replaced them with all new parts and it still does it on the right side. I suspect this is a Hyundai problem. We have 2008 and 2015 Elantras and they both do it.
On my wife's ,same car by the way,i replaced the front pads only,and it makes the sound but ,much lower,im thinking the cheap amazon pads I used is the culprit
Did you make sure that the hub where the rotor goes was spotless with no rust?That is usually were the noise come from
Good video, 3 issues, however. 1. Your shot was below camera viewing 2. you didn't use any lube on the outside of the pads to prevent noise 3. never use the new pads to compress piston, also you can use basic large channel locks to compress.
Good morning Jim,
It's René Warren again with a question.
But first off I just want to say thanks once again for all the great videos.
So onto my question but a little back story to help explain it.
I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra with 104,000km (64,000miles) as 90% of them KM's are highway miles. ( and I'm the only driver of every one of them KM)
Q1- do you think I need to flush my ATF fluid right now or can it wait? If so at how may KM should I flush it.
Q2- my car calls for Hyundai ATF SP-lV and here in Canada the dealer is asking $60 per Litre. Do you know of an after market brand/ type that is equal to the ATF fluid I just mentioned. I can't seem to find any that says SP-lV and I just don't want to use any brand that the young guys say at a NAPA store or where ever I may go.
I'm looking to you as your the pro and I have a ton of respect for what you suggest.
where do I jack this veichal up without a lift? can't find any safe jacking spots
Adam hi I am a hyundai tech at the dealership if you do not have a lift the jim and my self you can do this job with a floor jack and 2 jack stands on most cars there is a pinch weld its a thick piece of metal made for jacking up the car if you look in the owners manual most of the manuals have a picture of them the round sadle part of the floor jack goes right under that hope this helps
It would be a great video if you made sure to keep in line with the camera. Everything you did holding in your hands dropped below the lens.
Thank you
very good video.
Thank you for watching and your feedback.
U were out of view with da caliper steps springs info. Steps adding grease . But everything else is good info thanks
No Anti seize??
aron john No, none was needed.
No...why didnt you? Put a lil on the inside of the rotors and threads on the lug nut bolts and on the ends of the pads where they slide in on the calipers. And that god forsaking rotor screws to help them not rust up.
Great video, but caliper bracket bolts MUST be torqued to spec. not just hand tightened. That is very important from a safety perspective...could be disastrous if they're not tight enough or overtight. Also, like someone said...silicone crease on caliper slides...not moly or whatever that black crap is. But better the wrong grease than no grease. I've seen many neglected slides. Most shops don't even touch the slides.
2 year old car with s**tty rotors. Thanks, Hyundai.