Low level damp can be due to bridging of the existing damp proof course (dpc), se how we tackled this property in Selby for a regular customer who owns a string of properties.
Another great job sam and thanks for sharing the knowledge we do appreciate it. Keep it coming please. Don't worry about the so called experts that challenge your every word. As you said it's what works is what's counts. Cheers .
GREAT VIDEO THANKS, MY FRONT OF THE HOUSE IS APPROX OVER 100YEARS OLD. ANY IDEAS HOW MEASURE THICKENSS AND DEPTH I NEED TO GO IN. DUE TO STONE WALLS, BELOW MY FRONT ROOM WINDOW, WITHOUT DRILLING STRAIGHT THROUGH? THANKS
Blimey Sam not one straight edge or level used when you fixed the plasterboard, the poor kitchen fitter. I would say the damp problem was more likely to be caused by the finlock concrete guttering. If they are not sealed every few years they leak rainwater down the cavity and sometimes down the inner walls, as the concrete bridges the cavity. Maybe change your surveyor Sam :)
I'm certain they built those properties by building shell, plastering to damp course and then installing the screeds too high, impcated by the asphalt screeds
Hiya Sam any chance you can do a vid ref a stone wall. Currently I've used your system and its worked well. Bridging is the main problems in most I've encountered. I'm gonna be working on a building built in 1900. Its all stone and about 3ft thick. Before I begin this task doing all the ground floor wondered if I could get some guidance via a vid if possible. Cheers pal, keep up the knowledge sharing from a poor struggling landlord who is willing to have a go.👌
Have a search for videos Iv done on Dryzone Dampproofing plaster and damp check rods these are what we use on solid stone farm house walls 👍 thanks for watching
@@dampsam cheers sam will do. Have a good day, its not to late to go to ibiza. I'm off to spain all sept. If you ever wanna go to my place in Alicantie spain give us a shout. Its a 2 bed detached close to beach etc.
Check for leaking pipes under the floor and make sure it’s not condensation forming on the cold surface too, a liquid damp proof membrane like dry base can be applied on top.
Why is a bead of Instastick/Megastick applied at the bottom of the plasterboard in kitchen when bridging is determined as causing damp issues? Won't this promote bridging also?
The polyurethane is waterproof as far as bridging is concerned, and it’s to stop any debris getting brushed or pushed under the gap which could cause bridging
Hi sam, what's your go to if you come across a wall you've hacked off that hasn't got the depth to get even a 9mm board on? I actually have always cut a bridging gap, drill and inject a new chemical DPC and then mesh membraned full height (if the customer is happy to lose the space) and then board using insta stik. But I like your system a lot, although hacking off isn't my favourite thing to do haha.. what's your thoughts?
There are a few ways. I did a video where I just put dryflex on to the brick and skimmed it about 3-5mm because whoever did the work befor just skimmed the bricks.
Hi Sam, i have a cellar i am wanting to change to a habitable space it is fairly dry no water coming through just a bit cold, could the dry wall method be used in a basement?? what would you use?? thanks
Hi pal, you would need to google BS8102 which is the standard for below ground construction. There are 3 types of waterproofing, type A,Band C and there is also grades of dryness too. The express system could be used but only after a waterproofing system has been installed.
Not a clue wally, all the usual handy talk pretending you know what your talking about, the fact is you know nothing about Building Sceince. Expensive short term works that in the long term WILL NOT WORK. Its not rising damp/briding issues its simply MOISTURE or as you say or whatever
But bridging can occur, especially from the bitchmen to the wall. Peter did a video on that already which im sure you have already seen. He already said it wasn't rising damp, so he's not trying to falsely sell a dpc. Condensation is a lot of people's problems but its not in every case.
Brilliant video and very informative .. the first experience I had with foaming the boards to the wall was like you have done in the kitchen in this vid.. is to knock of where needed treat the wall with salt inhibitor and then PVA then k11 slurry and then foam stick the boards . That k11 alone changes the atmosphere in room if it's bigger enough. Iv not done any plastering for a few years through my own choices and the shite tight firm I work far but it seems to have progressed a little .. these vids keep me informed and In touch just in case I decide I want to get back into it . Thanks for the massive efforts in you time in production on your work .
I’ll tell you a secret, the only reason I kept away from Dampproofing pre 2000 was because of the high pressure pump system which was awful to use, I did the replastering after but not the dpc install. As soon as Dryzone came out that changed everything and they have done the same again with this express system..
Another great job sam and thanks for sharing the knowledge we do appreciate it. Keep it coming please. Don't worry about the so called experts that challenge your every word. As you said it's what works is what's counts. Cheers .
Kind words taken on board TY 👍
Halloween special @ 6min 30 someone was stud at the window pmsl brilliant
Thanks 👀
I could see an old chap called joe at the window Sam. He seemed impressed with your work !
Scary them hoodies 😬
GREAT VIDEO THANKS, MY FRONT OF THE HOUSE IS APPROX OVER 100YEARS OLD. ANY IDEAS HOW MEASURE THICKENSS AND DEPTH I NEED TO GO IN. DUE TO STONE WALLS, BELOW MY FRONT ROOM WINDOW, WITHOUT DRILLING STRAIGHT THROUGH? THANKS
Why have you done board somewhere and plastered the rest please mate
Not sure it was years back
Blimey Sam not one straight edge or level used when you fixed the plasterboard, the poor kitchen fitter. I would say the damp problem was more likely to be caused by the finlock concrete guttering. If they are not sealed every few years they leak rainwater down the cavity and sometimes down the inner walls, as the concrete bridges the cavity. Maybe change your surveyor Sam :)
That’s a great point about the concrete gutter I didn’t know that , learning every day
Another good video mate thought came to mind is lime plaster good for dampness and mould 👍🏻
It would depend what type of damp it is and construction type
I'm certain they built those properties by building shell, plastering to damp course and then installing the screeds too high, impcated by the asphalt screeds
Hiya Sam any chance you can do a vid ref a stone wall. Currently I've used your system and its worked well. Bridging is the main problems in most I've encountered. I'm gonna be working on a building built in 1900. Its all stone and about 3ft thick. Before I begin this task doing all the ground floor wondered if I could get some guidance via a vid if possible. Cheers pal, keep up the knowledge sharing from a poor struggling landlord who is willing to have a go.👌
Have a search for videos Iv done on Dryzone Dampproofing plaster and damp check rods these are what we use on solid stone farm house walls 👍 thanks for watching
@@dampsam cheers sam will do. Have a good day, its not to late to go to ibiza. I'm off to spain all sept. If you ever wanna go to my place in Alicantie spain give us a shout. Its a 2 bed detached close to beach etc.
I’ve got damp on my concrete kitchen floor. Any ideas
David
Check for leaking pipes under the floor and make sure it’s not condensation forming on the cold surface too, a liquid damp proof membrane like dry base can be applied on top.
Why is a bead of Instastick/Megastick applied at the bottom of the plasterboard in kitchen when bridging is determined as causing damp issues? Won't this promote bridging also?
The polyurethane is waterproof as far as bridging is concerned, and it’s to stop any debris getting brushed or pushed under the gap which could cause bridging
Hi sam, what's your go to if you come across a wall you've hacked off that hasn't got the depth to get even a 9mm board on? I actually have always cut a bridging gap, drill and inject a new chemical DPC and then mesh membraned full height (if the customer is happy to lose the space) and then board using insta stik. But I like your system a lot, although hacking off isn't my favourite thing to do haha.. what's your thoughts?
There are a few ways. I did a video where I just put dryflex on to the brick and skimmed it about 3-5mm because whoever did the work befor just skimmed the bricks.
Do you have any issues with bridging, where you foam the bottoms of boards, 👍🏻
No, none at all
Simon, do the injection cream travel through mortar with a water proofer in it?
Great vid mate
Thanks Sam, great name by the way 👍
Hi Sam, i have a cellar i am wanting to change to a habitable space it is fairly dry no water coming through just a bit cold, could the dry wall method be used in a basement?? what would you use?? thanks
Hi pal, you would need to google BS8102 which is the standard for below ground construction. There are 3 types of waterproofing, type A,Band C and there is also grades of dryness too. The express system could be used but only after a waterproofing system has been installed.
@@dampsam Thank you mate thats great appreciate the help
Now bud would you still inject the block work and we’re would u inject it cheers
No there is no need to inject block work, this should have a physical dpc in place
What foam are you using ?
Instastik but we do use some others
Not a clue wally, all the usual handy talk pretending you know what your talking about, the fact is you know nothing about Building Sceince. Expensive short term works that in the long term WILL NOT WORK. Its not rising damp/briding issues its simply MOISTURE or as you say or whatever
But bridging can occur, especially from the bitchmen to the wall. Peter did a video on that already which im sure you have already seen. He already said it wasn't rising damp, so he's not trying to falsely sell a dpc.
Condensation is a lot of people's problems but its not in every case.
Cool video mate. That bit in the toilet behind the pump looks very awkward 👍
Brilliant video and very informative .. the first experience I had with foaming the boards to the wall was like you have done in the kitchen in this vid.. is to knock of where needed treat the wall with salt inhibitor and then PVA then k11 slurry and then foam stick the boards . That k11 alone changes the atmosphere in room if it's bigger enough. Iv not done any plastering for a few years through my own choices and the shite tight firm I work far but it seems to have progressed a little .. these vids keep me informed and In touch just in case I decide I want to get back into it . Thanks for the massive efforts in you time in production on your work .
It was very awkward but Iv a lot of tools that can reach 👍
I’ll tell you a secret, the only reason I kept away from Dampproofing pre 2000 was because of the high pressure pump system which was awful to use, I did the replastering after but not the dpc install. As soon as Dryzone came out that changed everything and they have done the same again with this express system..