How to fit a Wall Hung Concealed Toilet Frame (GEBERIT)
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- Опубліковано 14 лют 2022
- In this video I show you an in depth process on how to install a wall hung concealed toilet frame. How to calculate the finished floor level, how to securely fix the frame to the floor and wall, plasterboard and hang the wall hung pan.
One of the best tutorials I've seen on youtube, Very well articulated and explained. Will allow a novice DIYer to tackle this job without any issues. We'll done, keep up the good work Sat.
From 13 years of joining youtube, this is my first comment I've posted. Thats how good I thought it was.
That’s great to hear. So glad you found it helpful.
...simply BRILLIANT, thanks a million times!
This was fantastic. I have builders in my home at the moment working on this exact thing. It enables me as a consumer to see if they are not cutting corners...and so far they are brilliant.
Excellent tutorial with decent tips. 35yrs in the trades and I’m still learning! Thank you.
Thankyou Steve. We never stop learning.
You are amazing, thank you for such a great, informative tutorial.
I just want to say thank you, for. Your videos and specifically this one, I’ve removed a toilet and added in a wall hung one by watching this over and over, I’m super chuffed with myself, you went into so much detail and answered all my questions, thank you 😊
Your most welcome. You can find me on signature_installations on instagram
How decent slop is 1/4"×1' or 1/2"×1' ?
To use PEX than is need an sweat adaptor from copper to PEX expendable or crimp. Also can use pres fit copper fitting viega either for copper to PEX or copper to copper I presume
That water /moister resistant board is cod surround bathtub or any other areas where moisture might occur prior tilling
Fantastic vid, covering all the areas other videos and instructions gloss over 👌🏼
Superb best I have seen
The BEST video explaining this instillation.
Glad it was helpful!
Superb tutorial! Your time and effort much appreciated. This helps to anticipate everything upfront!
Have watched this quite a few times now, the detail is excellent. Never fitted one of these types of toilet before and redoing my own bathroom. All ready for the tiler now 😊
Very concise and useful tutorial for trade/diy installers 😊
Best tutorial i have ever seen! Forever greatfull❤
Absolutely excellent and very helpful. Thanks for doing this.
Literally one of the best tutorials I have watched. Excellent presentation, clear and concise. Keep up the good work. Subscribed off the back of this video. 👍
Just came across your channel whilst looking for tips and tricks on installing a Wall Hung toilet. I do have to say possibly the best install tutorial on this subject, Clearly explaining the areas that people will struggle in. Great job.
Thankyou Darren. I felt every other video just brushed over the topic.
Such an informative and well explained demo. Cheers and thanks !!!
No problem you’re welcome
You did a great job explaining everything- A+
You are an amazing trainer. Thank you.
Very comprehensive best I've seen learnt lot
there are many videos on this install on youtube including from GEBERIT themselves, but this one is the best, its a long video but thats whats needed for this especially if like me its first time doing one, thanks for your video.
Thankyou glad you found it helpful
EXCELLENT INSTRUCTION ,thank you most helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
What a brilliant guide,better than the manufacturers installation, instructions + the little pitfall tips to boot thank you and keep up the good work
Excellent work! Thank you.
Thank you too!
You are the best plumber mate.
Thanks for this. Really well done and easy to follow. I'm fitting a grohe one and all your tips have been a godsend
You’re welcome. It’s virtually the same principal
@@diybathroom5123 one question. I have a sheet of 12mm ply spare and no green plasterboard. Would the 12mm ply be ok behind the hung toilet? Save me having to buy a sheet of plastervoard
Thank you so much. It's a very good tutorial
Ten out of Ten for ease of tutorial, you clearly know your trade, I only wish you were my Plumber !
You’re very welcome Mark
You can find me on instagram at signature_installations
Great video matey, lots of patience in presenting. Just about to tackle this job as a DIY for the first time.
You’re most welcome. Have a great day. You can find me on instagram also
That was really helpful . Thanks
This is a great video. Well explained and easy to follow. Only wish you did a part 2 to include fitting the fresh air module thingy!
Thanks.
Very informative video!
What an excellent video!
I found this really helpful. Thanks buddy
You’re welcome
Thank you buddy very helpful! 😊
Great job plenty of detail, much better then the geberit animation tutorials
Very elaborate! Thank you
Very detailed 👌 explanation ❤
Great video…. Thank you
Great explanation, thanks
You’re very welcome
Superbly explained. Many many thanks. Liked & subbed!
Your welcome
This is very well presented
Thanks
Well explained very patiently cheers 🎉
You’re welcome 😉
Excellent, thank you!
Great video!
Dude, I love your video. You are a total pro and carry yourself well with your informational explanation. You also seem to love your work. Cheers mate!
Thanks you can find me on Instagram
Signature_installations
Great video
What an epic video.. pls make more
A very informative and enjoyable tutorial...great stuff. I'm DIY'ing this job right now, so I've found your film very useful and it's helped me a lot. Bravo Sir.......(subscribed)
Best tutorial ever..😊
Thank you
Great video 👍
You’re most welcome
Very good detailed video and good explanation I wish you could post more videos about bathroom it's really helpfull keep up the good work mate.. Upload more videos
Thanks and sure
Nice vid. Say hello to Joe Cornish when you see him. Miss you guys!
Thank you!!!! Have been struggling to understand what fitting to use on the concealed cistern. I had been looking at Speedfit elbow to tap, or a flexible hose but was concerned about the seal onto the cistern fitting (virtually the same as you show here).
Very good video
Thank you Master 🙏
You are very welcome
Good job 👍
Thanks
you are the best, explenation was spot on , can I ask if you ever face any issue with leaking
Thanks bro
Brilliant Thanks so much
You’re most welcome
The best explanation on installing a Geberet
Thank you
What are your thoughts on Flomasta PTSE liquid for compression joints
Thanks. As per your question, I haven’t used that. For compression fittings I use jointing compound
Thank you!
You’re welcome
Thanks alot
Nice
thankyou mate
You're welcome!
Hi. I’ve got from front to back, 165mm of space for the frame to fit in. Will this be enough to allow for the bend in the side fitting soil pipe?
I’m having to put a new soil pipe in so I can drill it anywhere in that space mentioned above. Thank you
Great video /explanatory step by step appreciate your concern protecting the floor and how about control flush box is protruding out of wall ? It can be flush out with tile finish wall ?
Yes the plastic surround snaps off to accommodate different tile thickness
@@diybathroom5123 thanks
Fantastic tutorial ,ive follwed this to fit my toilet frame only one question. would you use a geberit noise reduction gasket. Thanks for your time
Your welcome
Wouldn’t hurt to use one. Not a common practice because it really depends on the manufacturer of the bowl.
Absolute legend. What a perfectly explained video. Many thanks. Quick question, when hand tightening the locking Allen key bolts that pull the pan tighter to the wall, how do you know when to stop? What is the limit? I get worried I will tighten it so much that I will crack either the pan or the tiles 🙊
Hi. The way to check is the physically see the pan being pulled and to the point the Allen keys are too hard to turn. If you’re adhesive bed is full your tiles shouldn’t crack. Silicone around the pan and once cure sit to see if you see any obvious movement.
This is a great instructional video for me as this will be my first time installing a toilet. I have recently purchased the same wall-hung setup for my cloakroom. I was checking all the waste pipe fittings and came across a small issue. The waste pipe goes straight into the concrete floor but is 110mm in diameter, and the outlet pipe in the set is 90mm in diameter. Watching your video you mention a reducer from 110mm to 90mm. Could you tell me if this is in the kit or if I have to purchase one? Do you have a web link to the part? Thanks
Thanks, great tutorial. If you were not tiling would you recommend 2 layers of plasterboard?
I’d suggest a solid base like Hardi backer. Prime with acrylic primer and skim coat.
Great video. Is it possible to install without the threaded rods at the back? Some people claim you can fix them sideways into the wood frame?
Yea you absolutely can
Absolutely the best video I have seen on how to install a concealed toilet system. I am fitting mine on Friday and was concerned about flex behind toilet pan when installed. You cover this around 37.20. Would you use the self tapping screw or is a sealant best? Depending on your reply, what size screw would you use? Or which sealant. Thanks and keep up the good work. Ian
Hi Ian thank you so much, glad it will help you installing the frame. I have always used a sealant like CT1. Self tapping screws around 25mm can also be used. The purpose of the screws is to get the plasterboard to hug the steel and avoid any micro gaps forming. You can also use a hss bit around 3mm and and drive a few drywall screws into the frame to squash the sealant. Ultimately when it’s tiled you need to make sure there’s full bed coverage of adhesive. Hope that helps. Any questions please feel free to ask.
Brilliant, thanks for the reply, will definitely be using a mixture of both.
You can follow me on instagram @signature_installations
I used this video to install my toilet. Its not perfect but it works😅 especially aligning and leveling is ver difficult if you dont have a frame in place first
Hi, thanks alot for this video & am super excited watching it. Actually am about installing something similar for the very first time as a plumber & I have been doing alot of thinking on it.
Please I have some some questions for like
(1) I have watch alot of video concerning on the installation, alot of them have similar stuff like placing the wall mounted concealed frame on a wood. Does that necessarily mean I have to tell my client to build wooden frame for it?
(2) How about the option of using blocks?
(3) am also concerned more on the finish floor level so my w/c won't be more higher above the floor?.
(4) using plywood to cover the whole framework, can tiles stick to the wood?
You can sit this on blocks also. I would not use plywood unless you cover it with an anti fracture membrane
@@diybathroom5123 so what's the best material to use when sitting it on block wall to cover it?
Do you always glue soil pipes in? I've noticed most of the soil pipes here are push fit with rubber seals... is that normal for internal soil fittings etc or just underground?
love your channel. thanks. my question: remodel concrete slab bathroom, don't want to damage slab, don't want to use old sewer, can i use this wall mount framing with toilet face the exterior wall and hook the bowl drain toward outside of the wall to connect the new sewer line reroute ABS pipe?
Yes that’s precisely what you have to do. I presume you are in the uk ?
The frames normally come with a right angle waste pipe. This can be rotated to point downwards or sideways. Not sure if they do one with a straight pipe to go straight back and out of the wall. You could add another 90 degree bend so it goes down (or sideways) then turns to go out through a wall.
@@ColinWatters yes you’re right
Another brand that supplies the straight 3inch aswell as the elbow is a brand which is another favourite. It’s called TECE made in Germany.
👏👏👏
Can you just add some additional wood framing to brace the tank in between the two studs? I wouldn't think you would want to secure the tank to the wallboard, so the tank and bowel can move seprately without moving the wallboard (and cracking joint)
You have two types of wall toilet fixation, top one like you have in your tutorial and side fixation, in your opinion which is better?
From experience the only difference is aesthetic. Side fixings are usually visible as apposed to top fixings
Thank you for the informative presentation. I’m in the process of planning for my install but I’m not finding necessary information to finalize my plans. My total wall board thickness will only be ½ inches. Do you feel this will be adequate or does the flush actuator need more room to operate correctly? Thank you.
The flush button will accommodate a board and tile thickness over 50mm. You simply cut back the protruding box and rods inside
@@diybathroom5123 Sounds great - thank you for the quick response!
Brilliant video.
Couple of questions if I may
Is there an issue using flexible pan connector where connecting into existing SVP is problematic?
Also you mention if the grub screw drops Into the pottery it's a nightmare. Would that mean new WC pan 😮?
Hi, thanks a lot. In regards to you question using a flexi pan connector it’s doable. I have another video on my channel showing it being used. The grub screw can be removed with a little persuasion to get it to find the hole in the pottery where the seat fits.
@@diybathroom5123 thank you so much. Such a brilliantly explained video thank you
@@leighkettle6423 you’re most welcome. You can find me on instagram at signature_installations
Is it reliable with an almost horizontal slope?
I am looking to install this exact frame/carrier and luckily found your video after endless searching. The manual says the outlet should maximum go 45 degrees to each side but I don't have enough height to make that work so I have been searching everywhere to find out if nearly horizontal similar to what you do in the video will work.
My setup is identical to yours except instead of wood at the bottom I have a riser clamp where the tee in the main stack has to sit above which causes the center of the outlet to be nearly at the same height as the toilet outlet.
There is only around 10 inches from the toilet outlet to the main stack where it will connect.
I have been calculating back and forth and adding the floor height like you advise and the center of the toilet outlet will be around 9.25"-9.75" from the ground and the center of the tee outlet in the main soil stack will be around 8.75", so a drop of 0.50" to 1" over 10".
Hope you have time to answer as I don't know what the heck to do and have had to stop the project while my hole bathroom is gutted.
Thanks for sharing this video - best video I have found.
Hi Martin. Your calculation sounds correct in terms of height. In regards to the slope of you drainage pipe, I can honest say from experience you will be fine. 10 inches is a very small distance. Obviously the T (sweeping T / branch ) portion sweeps down? The force of the water from the cistern will be enough to get the rid of the waste.
Great video! I now feel 90% there with tackling this myself, however, the only remaining question I have is... Is this the same process if going against plaster only wall as opposed to tile behind? Thanks in advance!
Hi If it’s a plaster( skim background id be more inclined to use a cement board instead. Something like Hardibackerboard
Hi. Super video. Just wondering, if the soil pipe is going straight out the back.. the Geberit kit only comes with an elbow. Do you need to get a special Geberit straight fitting? Thanks a mil!
Yes you would need to order the straight fitting. There is a way to make it work using the reducer that they supply but you need to be experienced in positioning it
@@diybathroom5123 Thanks a mil for the reply. I think Screwfix seem to have quite a few diff fittings, so I reckon I'll maybe take out the old toilet first and see what'll work best then.
@@diybathroom5123 By the way, your videos are excellent. Hope you get back to them and it works out for you. Defo deserve a much larger following.
Great video. Very detailed explanations of what you are doing however... I disagree completely with your comment ref plasterboard and tiling. Plasterboard should NEVER be used in any bathroom, cloakroom and especially not in a shower area or wet room. This materials is for covering studwork hence why the Americans call it drywall. The clue is in the name. So plasterboard, no matter how dense, is definitely NOT suitable for large format tiles and has a very low loading capacity so this limits the weight of tiles you can adhere to it. If you plaster skim the plasterboard prior to tiling this makes the situation worse as the max loading value decreases. You should always use "backer board". There are many makes of this in all sizes and thicknesses and once taped and sealed at the joins and corners is a far superior product which can take much heavier wall tiles. Yes, this is more expensive but I prefer my tiles not to come off the wall which ends up being cheaper in the long run if you have to start over again.
Glad you enjoyed the video. I’d have to agree on some areas you’ve mentioned however my experience over the last 20 years has intuitively grasped that any 10mm porcelain or hard grade ceramic tile when back buttered and full bedded, creates an extremely solid surface. I think it’s a skill in itself to understand where and what product to use in what scenario. I would definitely never skim with gypsum products. And with your reference to loads I would say that there is no load to be pulling on the plasterboard when the pan itself is clamping it fully to the metal frame work. Your have provided an excellent analysis of my tutorial and I greatly appreciate the feedback
@diybathrooms5123. Hi thanks for the reply. Think I wasn't too clear about loading. I was referring to the load on the plasterboard from the wall tiles not the toilet. There should be no load at all on the plasterboard where the toilet pans is hung as all the rotational and downward forces should be taken up by the timber frame. If anyone feels they must tile on plasterboard and not backer board then the load of the tiles has to be taken into account so large format tiles are not a good idea as there is a maximum weight per m2 that plasterboard, not skimmed, can take 🤫
Great tutorial BUT 15 wraps of PTFE!!!
What about the .098 version? Would the seat hit the flush plate? I suppose it might depend on the WC but generally, any feedback would be most welcome. Nice video btw, thank you!
Yes it does hit the flush
Thank you for the reply. Is there another option for flushes with these frames? Ie. a flush sit away from the cistern? I have seen this before as a push button rather than a flush plate.
@@Mit_yourfriend yes you can get a pneumatic dual flush button. You have to alter the parts inside. I’m not entirely sure if it’s doable on a 0.98 but I can’t see why not
Did you have any issues when the bowl was installed? Per the directions it specifically says you can only install the elbow vertically or nothing less than a 45° angle.
From experience you should have a problem with the drainage less than 45
@@diybathroom5123 should or shouldn't?
@@andrewrossnagel9433 Apologies you shouldn’t have a problem. As long as there is a slight tilt you’ll be fine
the best , better than geberit.
Thanks
Would u say these geberit are better than the grohes
From experience au can say they have a wide range of flush buttons and dimensions to accommodate restricted space
45:15 friction mark city !!!
Had install one those units to a cement base floor. Client is worried about heavy people over 500lbs sitting on it.
Those bullet connections look ambitious . Duravit use a locked nut . Better
How many turns of PTFE Tape?!?!
15 perhaps. Other option use a liquid plastic like loctite 577. Wolsey plumber merchants sell it
@@diybathroom5123 Apprentice you're the expert but in similar installs I would have done 5/6 wraps maximum?
You can fined me on Instagram too
There’s never a set amount from my experience. My early years as an apprentice I would wrap a cone shape at the start and then proceed with the wraps nice and flat/tight and leave one thread to catch the female. However some machining of parts varies and you’ll find the tightness can vary significantly. Now I use Loctite 577 which fills the thread completely.
Hi, the reason the screw did not thread, is because you used a drill, that damaged the thread. Probably better to use a large straight bit in the drill, to screw in the rod, if you cant be bothered to to by hand.
Brand new threads sometimes do not catch. It’s not the case of not being bothered. Thanks for watching
Eres un chapuzas
Great video
Your very welcome Roger. You can find me on instagram at diybathroom.Co.uk