Personally I never loved the idea of this because I question how reliable the system itself is. Plus the entire resistor thing is weird. But I belive ill be forced to do this because doing the Manual ECU route is just to expensive for me RN
Yeah I wasn’t a fan of it either but after looking into both options. I realized even tho this requires splicing in wires that is is still a lot simpler since the keys don’t have to be programmed for the immobilizer. The cost being a lot cheaper was what made us do it at the end
Thank you for the detailed video. Can I ask where got that wiring diagram and definition table? I manual swapped my GS400 and having trouble finding a ecu pinout to complete the ATEMU install. Cheers!
Thank you! I actually found the pin out definition table linked in an IS300 FaceBook group and made the step-by-step instruction going back and forth referencing it. I found a manual for a GS400 and it has the pin out listed as a diagram and I believe it can be used to install the emulator since it does say the connector and pin you need. Here’s a link!: wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/file/fetch/141408114/Lexus%201999%20GS400%20GS300%20Electrical%20Wiring%20Diagram%20%28EWD356U%29.pdf It looks like it starts from page 116 and you can see that all the values are listed in diagram form such as +B being listed as connector E pin 16, SLT+ being listed as connector C pin 9, SLT- being listed as connector C pin 15 and etc I hope this helps!
@@AimlessJP WOW Thank you so much! Really appreciate the help, I was putting off the install of the ATEMU due to lack of info on 1uzfe. Thank you again!
If you installed an ATEMU instead of getting a manual ecu, do you still need to give the auto ecu a speed signal from the cluster like you would need to do with a manual ecu to avoid the check engine light? I was gonna install a ATEMU because the guy who was selling me a manual ecu flaked but I'm a little sceptical because I want to avoid any CEL.
As long as you wire it following the diagram, you don't have to do any additional wiring. The check engine light won't be on but the monitors for emissions will never set so the car won't be able to be emissions tested. The reason is because the ecu needs to car to detect a certain speed for an extended period of time but the emulator messes with that signal. I've heard of people giving the emulator an additional speed signal to get the monitors to set for emissions testing but it is not a permanent solution as you have to keep the rpms low. If you want to pass emissions, get a manual ecu but if you just want the car to run perfectly without any check engine lights then an emulator is fine. Hope this helps!
Sorry to hear that it’s on backorder now :( When we got ours, it was still in stock and showed up in 3 days. I would email them and see when they estimate they would have them back before ordering though. I just quickly looked it up and it seems that the one on Quantum Autos website is on backorder but that one on serial nines website is still in stock if you wanted to go with that. They are pretty much the same just the outside casing looks different. Pin out and wire colors are exactly the same :)
Hey thanks for the step by step guide. I followed everything and it was all good however 2 out of the 3 resistors are not working and no power is going to them. Do you know what can fix this?
@@AimlessJP i used solder. But i checked before my connection and no power is coming from the ecu to the wire. It’s only reading 0.01 Volts. the one working is reading around 12
Unfortunately it does not since the emulator never lets the monitors set and it stays pending :( There is a work around if you wire a speed wire into it but you can’t go over a certain rpm or speed and have to drive it like that till they set then smog it and hope you didn’t go over while driving and waiting for the monitors to be ready then revert. It’s a pain and honestly not worth the hassle unless you really need to smog it that way.
I have the 2001 pin out linked along with the 2002+ but I didn’t make a step by step for it :/ I did show how to read it and match it pretty easily tho!
I believe if you are swapping to a manual ecu that you will also need the matching key for it since the ecu is immobilized. You can get around this by having the ecu converted to a non immobilized ecu or by simply swapping the internals of the key into your current key.
Bro please never delete this video I'm gonna Manual swap my is300 and I'm relying on this please🙏
Thanks for attaching those files in the description! Super clutch!
Oh kuya
I got the same one !! And dropped my trans yesterday perfect timing
Ay I’m glad to hear :)
I'm also doing a manual swap on my car this year. Thanks for the tutorial.
Bro you are bad azz super helpful videos. Dont ever delete this videos.
awesome instructions on installing the atemu
Thanks!
Totally needed this!
:)
Ive been waiting on this!!!!!!!!!
Sorry for the wait
Yo this is suuuuuuper helpful man thank you
No problem!
hell yea
nice job dylan you’re such an inspiration. i just hate that car and the owner of it!
Thank you I think
Good info 👍
Did you run the wire from the cluster to the ecu for the ecu speed signal? Without that, it won't set the smog monitors.
I ran it from the ecu, haven’t checked yet to see if the monitors set but if it didn’t then thanks for the tip!
Personally I never loved the idea of this because I question how reliable the system itself is. Plus the entire resistor thing is weird. But I belive ill be forced to do this because doing the Manual ECU route is just to expensive for me RN
Send your ecu for a tune
It’s reliable…
Yeah I wasn’t a fan of it either but after looking into both options. I realized even tho this requires splicing in wires that is is still a lot simpler since the keys don’t have to be programmed for the immobilizer. The cost being a lot cheaper was what made us do it at the end
Thank you for the detailed video. Can I ask where got that wiring diagram and definition table? I manual swapped my GS400 and having trouble finding a ecu pinout to complete the ATEMU install. Cheers!
Thank you! I actually found the pin out definition table linked in an IS300 FaceBook group and made the step-by-step instruction going back and forth referencing it.
I found a manual for a GS400 and it has the pin out listed as a diagram and I believe it can be used to install the emulator since it does say the connector and pin you need.
Here’s a link!: wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/file/fetch/141408114/Lexus%201999%20GS400%20GS300%20Electrical%20Wiring%20Diagram%20%28EWD356U%29.pdf
It looks like it starts from page 116 and you can see that all the values are listed in diagram form such as +B being listed as connector E pin 16, SLT+ being listed as connector C pin 9, SLT- being listed as connector C pin 15 and etc
I hope this helps!
@@AimlessJP WOW Thank you so much! Really appreciate the help, I was putting off the install of the ATEMU due to lack of info on 1uzfe. Thank you again!
No Problem!
Bro Fucking perfect timing !!
🤍
Did you leave the resistors exposed on the sink mount or did you make a custom casing for it ?
I actually left them exposed :/ I plan on showing the setup next time Guillermo and I make a video
I got a stand alone using a jumper cd009 swapping my car would I still need the atemu?
You do not :)
This is the same for 02-05 gs300 isn’t it?
If you installed an ATEMU instead of getting a manual ecu, do you still need to give the auto ecu a speed signal from the cluster like you would need to do with a manual ecu to avoid the check engine light? I was gonna install a ATEMU because the guy who was selling me a manual ecu flaked but I'm a little sceptical because I want to avoid any CEL.
As long as you wire it following the diagram, you don't have to do any additional wiring. The check engine light won't be on but the monitors for emissions will never set so the car won't be able to be emissions tested. The reason is because the ecu needs to car to detect a certain speed for an extended period of time but the emulator messes with that signal. I've heard of people giving the emulator an additional speed signal to get the monitors to set for emissions testing but it is not a permanent solution as you have to keep the rpms low. If you want to pass emissions, get a manual ecu but if you just want the car to run perfectly without any check engine lights then an emulator is fine. Hope this helps!
@@AimlessJP so just getting the manual ECU would fix the "CEL, monitors to set for smog" right?
Broo could you please let me know where I could possibly find more information regarding the additional speed signal on the emulator?
Yay no check engine light!!
It actually came up a little after this but it was for a bad thermostat :/
Question, on the emulator. Said it was on back order. How long did it take to receive the part?
Sorry to hear that it’s on backorder now :(
When we got ours, it was still in stock and showed up in 3 days. I would email them and see when they estimate they would have them back before ordering though.
I just quickly looked it up and it seems that the one on Quantum Autos website is on backorder but that one on serial nines website is still in stock if you wanted to go with that. They are pretty much the same just the outside casing looks different. Pin out and wire colors are exactly the same :)
@@AimlessJP They will be back in stock July! Thanks for the reply btw!
Hey thanks for the step by step guide. I followed everything and it was all good however 2 out of the 3 resistors are not working and no power is going to them. Do you know what can fix this?
That’s strange. What did you use to tap into the wires? I know some wire taps are not the best and have bad contacts
@@AimlessJP i used solder. But i checked before my connection and no power is coming from the ecu to the wire. It’s only reading 0.01 Volts. the one working is reading around 12
Which two pairs aren’t getting power and which pair is? SLT+/- , SLU+/- , SLN+/-
SLU +/- and SLN +/- are not getting power
@@AimlessJPSLT +/- is the only one getting power
Does cruise control work with this method?
Please update if you pass CA smog
Unfortunately it does not since the emulator never lets the monitors set and it stays pending :(
There is a work around if you wire a speed wire into it but you can’t go over a certain rpm or speed and have to drive it like that till they set then smog it and hope you didn’t go over while driving and waiting for the monitors to be ready then revert. It’s a pain and honestly not worth the hassle unless you really need to smog it that way.
Whats the difference doing it on a 01?
2001 ? Do u have pin layout?
I have the 2001 pin out linked along with the 2002+ but I didn’t make a step by step for it :/
I did show how to read it and match it pretty easily tho!
What wheels are those?
Advan Model 6s :)
So if I decide to go with the manual ecu is it just plug and play or do I need a key that goes with that ecu?
I believe if you are swapping to a manual ecu that you will also need the matching key for it since the ecu is immobilized. You can get around this by having the ecu converted to a non immobilized ecu or by simply swapping the internals of the key into your current key.
wait does it delete every single check engine light or just for the tranny
It only prevents transmission related codes from popping up but not engine codes