Will Bosi Training for Stefano Ghisolfi's Hardest Climb
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- Опубліковано 13 сер 2023
- @WilliamBosi is back at it, time for more replica training! But this time Will has a big sport climbing goal in mind. In this video Will Bosi is setting a replica of Stefano Ghisolfi's famous Excalibur (9b+) route. In particular, the upper boulder problem section which weighs in around 8B+/8C boulder difficulty. The moves on this climb are crazy hard with a desperate crux move that in known for putting off Adam Ondra, the best sport climber in the World!
Watch this space. Last time Will trained on a replica, it was not long until we saw a second ascent of the hardest boulder in the world!
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Ah yes, the old 7c warm up problem.
Gotta respect Lattice's strategy for creating popular content: take some climbers, train them into the best in the world, make videos with them.
I think there should be a full-on spray wall of replicas.
Then they would get in the way
Can’t wait for my super link of the cruxes from silence into burden and finish with a down climb of excalibur
Like a moonboard but with an exact replica for every grade there is? Would be nice for benchmarking.
@@karlderdelinckx Would be cool to have them set on a variable wall, so you can try Burden at 5 degrees
Set the first Boulder problem of Excalibur on the wall as well! Do the first one, jump down and directly do the second.
This is one of the best climbing videos I’ve seen in a while! Makes me really excited for the future of climbing
Yeah love this kind of video.
Best of luck on this project, Will. Looking forward to future videos on this.
We are gonna see Will's send video of Excalibur before we see Stefano's 😅
I tho
this is actually brilliant... badass idea guys. killed it with this video, format and theme. thanks so much
These videos and the replicas are wild! Absolutely love seeing the thinking that goes into it and the little tools like the warm-up variations. Will's attitude is so good. Looking forward to following this journey!
Its amaized me how homble Will is...
No flexing, no braging, just hard fckng climbing.
Excellent video guys well done 🎉
How many Burden circuits up and down can Will do though? 😂🎉
this replica wall is gonna end up as one of the legendary spraywalls i can feel it
I want to see Tom trying/doing the warmup version! 😁
love the content
You've got this Will
Dude. Seeing will try hard feels crazy.
Like man just reeks power 😂
my finger joints hurt just looking at the holds
Is Stefano ever gonna drop a video of his send of Excalibur?
good opportunity for a burden/Excalibur boulder, starts on burden ends on excalibur, vice versa
Burden of bur
Would you ever make and sell burden holds?
Core Climbing have already done this. They were the original company to mould the holds for Aidan.
Tom looks super high >
will flashing it was so disrespectful lol
Can I get the same in my basement just so I can look at it?
Summary was generated by Summatim, let us know if there are any inaccuracies! 🤖
0:05: Setting the top half of Excalibur
0:45: Description of the holds
2:48: Discussion about hold options
5:08: Description of the route
5:53: Description of the replica
6:43: Description of the moves
4:31: Discussion about the difficulty
6:14: Discussion about training on the replica
13:26: Testing the replica
9:37: Discussion about the last move
16:44: Session One
16:56: Variations and Tweaks
17:23: Feeling Tired
17:29: Progression
17:38: Goals
17:53: Conclusion
what is will doing at 16:11?
just flexing or sharpening his fangs?
I can’t tell if this is satire lol but he’s practising getting the clip for those that are also confused
Yes i think thats the point when you should clip on the excalibur. So its a good practice if you can keep the tension in that position.
hes emulating the clip thats on the actual route
Interesting how such a strong and a top level V17 guy has barely any obvious muscle definition or vascularity to show for it...
How is tom so aquad?
When stefano did this with pepe it was cool to watch, this is just weird
Did he fart at 8:53?
I feel the replicas should be called "beta replicas", because they replicate certain approach to the section. For example shorter climber might be able to find some more additional smears/bad footholds on the actual route, whereas the replica you set does not contain those. In our gym we are suffering from having a tall routesetter setting replicas of some boulders just for himself, where he omits some of the footholds, just because he doesn't need them for HIS beta... :(
Setting this way for a commercial gym is atrocious. Replicas take time to form, needing several iterations and often rules on hold use, and presumably without those holds this also makes the climb generally inaccessible besides not being a good replica. All sorts of matters wrong with such an approach
Have you seen magnus doing the boulders of Ondra on the video of the original moonboard? Each boulder Ondra made keeping the tension on far small feet holds,and than you imagine it is impossible to Magnus to make that move,abd than he literally campus on tiny smaller crimps.
That is the beauty of climbing. Solving problems with the "tools" that we have. Use our strenghts and train our weakness points 💪
@@agp10701 except this is a replica of a problem with holds unused by one person not included in a commercial setting, which is a whole different issue. Plus, as nice as using relative strengths and morphology is, campusing on small crimps when someone else can maintain feet is not using a relative strength but a discrepancy in difficulty. This is also one of the major flaws of the Moon Board is an inability to designate feet and often an overreliance on the kickboard which makes the problems quite span dependent or else significantly harder.
Great that Magnus can campus a move on the board, and is what it is, outside is the same is you only get the holds you get and have to work with the rock, but in a gym not making climbing accessible with intermediate feet is lazy, and not including holds you skip for a replica of a problem in a commercial setting is worse than lazy.
@@zacharylaschober I understand and agree with your point of view of a lazy routesetter on a comercial gym, and worse if he is short or tall and makes a bunch of boulders with his size,is stupid.
But what I pretend it to say(and that is my approach in climbing)is that I like the problem solving and the chalenge of improve my weakness points instead of trying to find excuses to don't send the boulders...
@@agp10701 oh definitely, the reality is whatever strengths and morphology you have... you have, and no amount of excuses change those. Think Drew Ruana is my favorite for this, with a rather short reach relative to most other boulderers at his level, especially on climbs like Ice Knife Sit where this forced such an obscene sequence others do not have to do. Ultimately, if he wanted to climb this, no amount of excuses would help.
I'll be honest, replicas just seem so lame. They make the send of the real thing just so much less interesting.