Thom it is always good to see what things in the scrap world are looking like. I did follow your advice and 22 years later , I was able to purchase a wire stripper that made a 1000 % difference , in how I process my icw. Keep up the good work. God bless y'all.
More great info Tom - appreciate you sharing this with the community. Totally agree on the wire stripper. I batch my wire in similar types making my stripping days more efficient.
Thanks once again Tom. Was just looking & separating various wire when a storm drove me into the car. Watching the latest iscrap video while the storm passes thru. Best wishes & much appreciation for the help.🌠
Great video there big Tom Tom . And I absolutely have to agree with you in regards to the benefits of having a wire stripper. GREAT TOOL to have if your in scrapping for the long haul.
When it comes to THHN, is there usually a copper% difference between solid and stranded? I've been holding on to all mine of varying gauges because I don't know how to sort it properly.
I would like to know two things first what kind of gloves are you wearing 2) if I scrap crushed aluminum cans instead of non-crushed aluminum cans will I make more money or am I just saving room
Thanks for your great videos. I have a bunch of clean transformer wire. The result of removing the windings from the core and then removing the varnished wire from the insulated wrap. What is the grade of copper that I would expect to get since it is just covered with varnish? Is there a special class for this? Most of what I have is #14 and larger. Thank you for your reply.
Wheel weights are lead, so they should be sold separate. And brake pads are rubber, but if you are mistaking them for rotors, then YES, you should always sort them because rotors are a heavier grade of steel and pay higher than shred.
@@iScrapApp Thanks Havent found a lead one in a long time. Zink, iron, and a lot of no idea, but not worth sorting. Someone told me they got a higher price for break pads Did not make since but maybe thay meant rotors. Thanks again for your awnser, means a lot.
@@iScrapAppBrake pads aren’t rubber. Typical brake pad construction include a composite of asbestos, ceramic, copper, and various other materials sandwiched to a steel back plate. I normally throw mine in with steel shred, however, an automotive service shop with a large accumulation may sort differently.
I thought bare bright had to be 16 gauge or bigger? Your last example wouldn't be classed as bare bright because the diameter of the wire strand wasn't 16 gauge
Thom it is always good to see what things in the scrap world are looking like. I did follow your advice and 22 years later , I was able to purchase a wire stripper that made a 1000 % difference , in how I process my icw.
Keep up the good work. God bless y'all.
That's great to hear! So happy to hear it's working well for you! Thanks for watching!
More great info Tom - appreciate you sharing this with the community. Totally agree on the wire stripper. I batch my wire in similar types making my stripping days more efficient.
Work smarter, not harder.
Thanks once again Tom. Was just looking & separating various wire when a storm drove me into the car. Watching the latest iscrap video while the storm passes thru. Best wishes & much appreciation for the help.🌠
Hope everyone is safe there! Thanks for watching!
Great video there big Tom Tom . And I absolutely have to agree with you in regards to the benefits of having a wire stripper. GREAT TOOL to have if your in scrapping for the long haul.
Thank you for watching! Yes strippers are very helpfuL!
Thanks for the skinny there Tom. I'm on it.
Any time!
When it comes to THHN, is there usually a copper% difference between solid and stranded? I've been holding on to all mine of varying gauges because I don't know how to sort it properly.
Typically THHN is the same as a single strand wire and comes from inside the jacket of a Romex wire.
Can you do a Video on Pewter scrap? The price is pretty high right now
Yes we can add it to our queue! :)
Thanks for the info
Any time!
I would like to know two things first what kind of gloves are you wearing
2) if I scrap crushed aluminum cans instead of non-crushed aluminum cans will I make more money or am I just saving room
We will send a link to the gloves- and more scrap yards have their own preference on cans. Many do not want them crushed.
Thanks for your great videos. I have a bunch of clean transformer wire. The result of removing the windings from the core and then removing the varnished wire from the insulated wrap. What is the grade of copper that I would expect to get since it is just covered with varnish? Is there a special class for this? Most of what I have is #14 and larger. Thank you for your reply.
It should go for a #2 copper price.
Do wire stripers work on Stranded 10 gauge wire?
Yes, I've done whole spools of that with a stripper. Just need to dial it in just right and you can strip anything worth stripping.
What are your recommendations for strippers?
Check this out:
iscrapapp.com/blog/how-to-strip-copper-wire-for-scrap/
Totally unrelated question. Is there any reason to separate wheel weights and or brakepads from my other shred?
Wheel weights are lead, so they should be sold separate. And brake pads are rubber, but if you are mistaking them for rotors, then YES, you should always sort them because rotors are a heavier grade of steel and pay higher than shred.
@@iScrapApp Thanks
Havent found a lead one in a long time. Zink, iron, and a lot of no idea, but not worth sorting. Someone told me they got a higher price for break pads
Did not make since but maybe thay meant rotors. Thanks again for your awnser, means a lot.
@@iScrapAppBrake pads aren’t rubber. Typical brake pad construction include a composite of asbestos, ceramic, copper, and various other materials sandwiched to a steel back plate.
I normally throw mine in with steel shred, however, an automotive service shop with a large accumulation may sort differently.
I thought bare bright had to be 16 gauge or bigger? Your last example wouldn't be classed as bare bright because the diameter of the wire strand wasn't 16 gauge
Generally, you need 10-12 gauge for it to be considered Bare Bright.