Awesome job and I love the the new stone with the double row of locks, I did not notice the showing of how to connect more drainage pipe and the end caps which are important to keep things from accumulating over time. Keep sharing, may everyone prosper from this kind of stuff, I know it has helped our family over the years, a great blessing.
Those stones are from TechoBloc - MiniCreta 6" - Champlain Grey. With Escala Coping They did a decent job installing. If anything I would recommend excavating more dirt from behind the wall to allow for more gravel. Approximately 1'-2' would help the wall drain better and last longer. The most important steps with retaining walls are making sure the base and back of the wall have sufficient gravel and cloth to reduce sediment from clogging the gravel.
Rhetorical question: Why are there so many people posting criticism of the engineering on this when the guy doing it is a pro, and, unless we missed it, none of them have engineering or landscaping degrees that indicate they know better? This is no different than some bullshitter from Queens, who's never served a day in the military, saying he knows better than the generals. Really, WTF?
The rock is a foot for the wall. Gravel or crushed rock tamped down is like concrete. It gets more stable the more in compacts down. That’s why they call it a base rock material at the home improvement store.
You can also use 1' X 2' blocks of concrete 2000 lbs each to build a retaining wall. It requires no mortar and no back fill. It need not be anchored to anything.
Base under wall should be 3/4" minus compacted gravel, not 3/4" clean gravel as it does not compact as well and you wont have a solid base to lay your first row of blocks. 3/4" clean gravel is fine behind wall for drainage but seems like they cut a corner by not using minus on the base.
its probably closed on the end by the house and open sticking out a little towards the end of the driveway towards the road. Watch a guys youtube channel called "Apple Drains" He is the best drainage person out there with decades of experience
I had understood you should NOT place landscape fabric behind the wall as eventually, that fabric will clog with soil and actually prevent proper water drainage through the gravel. Any input on that?
T Randall Depends on the fabric. Certain fabrics are meant to do exactly what you are worried about so soil doesn't get into the gravel channel. If soil builds up there it won't drain.
That drainage zone should be at a minimum 12 inches behind the wall I only saw maybe 4-6. The two most important aspects of a retaining wall is the base and the drainage. They are the difference between a good construction and one that fails in 2-3 years
@@AStanton1966 - 12 inches is a good rule to follow, but yeah, the wall is so short and hardly holding anything back so I agree it's a "no biggie" too.
For a retaining wall that isn’t on a hill, is it necessary to put in that perforated tubing? We want to replace the old large rocks that act as a retaining wall in front of our house that edges up to the sidewalk. It’s not downhill. Just wondering if that would be necessary?
Ahh memories I would watch this like in the morning when I was like 10 and just putting this out there I would make me sad if anything happened to the original cast like Silva and the other guys. I've watched them since I was young
Can someone explain why he put fabric behind the wall? Seems like it would trap the mud and push the wall over instead of letting the water drain through
I come to the ATOH comment section for all the "they are on TV so they must be right and I am morally superior because I pretend like I know more about this topic than anyone else in the comment section" comments
Surely the fabric should have been under the gravel as well? Just from my experience of septic soakaways that gravel under there will fill with mud then you're back to square one.
I think the fabric is removed. It was just there to keep stuff out of the way. Fabric would stop water and fill with mud and stuff and cause it to fall.
@@mattt555 There are fabrics that are very water-permeable called "Non-woven geotextile fabric". Standard "landscape fabric" you use to keep weeds out would not be used here, since that blocks water like you said.
Don't really see the point with the drainage pipe, what was the fall across the length of the retaining wall? How is the dirt going to be washed out of it over time so it can continue to function?
Who is the manufacturer of this concrete blocks? I would like to build one myself. If I have a slope at the highest point (from bottom to top)about 4 feet and from this 4 feet high slope extending 40 feet to the other end (right to left) with the height of about one feet, would this concrete blocks on the high end side strong enough to support the dirt?
And thank you, this is a great video! Are there any rules/guidelines that a homeowner should follow to help choose the best material for a retaining wall? Brick, boulders, wood, etc.
Pressure-treated timbers with deadmen are the easiest and cheapest to use in retaining walls. However, the chemical starts to leave the timbers after about 10 years. And the carpenter ants love to move in, chew on the wet wood, and expand their colony to your house. I have an exterminator now treat my timber wall annually and it still standing--holding back 4-feet of earth--going on 22 years. When constructing a wall, you have to look at design and height. Any wall approaching 3 feet or higher is usually called an engineered wall and will fall over if you don't know what you are doing. Stone or block is the way to go if done right. However, it will be the most expensive.
@@AStanton1966 I'm watching this video because I'm about to replace my wood wall with something else. Versa-lok probably. Anyway, it's 6 years old and falling apart because of ants. I didn't know about this problem and didn't do anything to prevent it. Live and learn.
@@steelyspielbergo I learned from my elderly neighbor. He had a wooden retaining wall up against his house which gave the carpenter ants a highway right into his house and wooden structure. I would never recommend butting a wooden wall against a house or building made out of wood.
@@AStanton1966 I worry about that too. My wall is against a basement wall. It's brick so I can't tell if anything got in there. I sprayed a bunch of poison into the weep-holes hoping that might work.
@@steelyspielbergo If you don't see any ants, you are probably good. You can always call a professional and have him give the area a quick spray. Just don't get involved with any of those big named-corporate chain exterminators.
Filter fabric is a no. It gets clogged eventually and then does not let the water through. I am just trying to quote Dirt Monkey on this one. I would take his opinion above others. I am not a contractor so please explain if I’m wrong or misunderstanding The Dirt Monkey videos.
The main problem with the original wall was the lack of back-fill. There's no need for the drain pipe because the water is meant to leak out the front bricks.
aquariuswithfire There is a major void in most videos to provide guidance as to how to properly arrange the drainage pipe. Do you cap it? Do you have it pitched? Do you wrap it with a landscaping fabric sock? Do you lay it level? It’s odd that this topic is so commonly passed over in retaining wall videos.
+Clickety Clack "The fabric is there to prevent dirt from filling the voids in the gravel." What prevents dirt from filling voids in the fabric? And if that happens how is that different from filling voids in the gravel?
@@dialecticalmonist3405 There is a space between them. It would have been better to have more clearance from the fabric and the block. The space prevents the fabric from loading up.
Into the Earth as it should. I just watched another vid on Mike Hadducks channel he explained/demonstrated the same thing. ua-cam.com/video/5fndKimsWnE/v-deo.html
Let me be more specific...where are the ends of the pipe leading to? If they are just capped, during periods of heavy rain, that pipe will just fill-up completely with water and may not drain anywhere because the ground is so saturated. There needs to be runoff or catch basin somewhere.
@@cup_and_cone The pipe is covered with small holes, this is not a solid drainage pipe channel that will be directing water to one area. Water that gets in can drain from all those holes the entire length of that pipe.
nice wall ... but it will also eventually start to lean from the water pressure, especially in a cold clime ... why ? ... because the water is not directed above the top of the retaining wall but rather is diverted directly into its rear where the swell and pressure can develop ... it is much better to have the water drain down the front of the wall instead of being forced to drain into the rear of the wall. The soil level should reach slightly above the cap height. A valuable $4000 lesson.
Thanks for mentioning this. Yes, I can imagine water rushing down that hill, staying on the surface, and flowing over the retaining wall, as you said, rather than getting it trapped behind the wall. The landscape fabric does not drain well in soil, either, so the water coming down the hill won't even be able to make it to the drainage rock! The water needs to be able to flow easily, or the pressure will build, even on a short wall like this one. I would like to see how it looks in 10 years!
Some years ago I conceived a notion to pour concrete into forms, and then to put them in a pressurized chamber to set up and harden at 2 to 3 atmospheres. An air compressor, hose, some fittings, and a sealed reinforced enclosure pressurized to high pressure would compress the mix and squeeze out the air bubbles. The blocks would harden at preloaded compression forces and theoretically perform as superior barrier blocks against high weight loads and point intrusions, and probably resist torsional and flexural forces better than standard block also. I want to build a "hard room" but it's not for a bullet-proof case. I want to build a machine that is possible (in its test phase) to require containment if it flies apart when it is revved up. The method may even produce high density block performance made with admixtures of space expanding foam particles to lighten the weight but with extreme block strength. Savings in shipping and ease of installation would then help a lot. Are there no videos on the subject?
I would think instead of pressurizing the container to form the concrete, you would want to pull under vacuum. This would pull all the air bubbles out.
Can I use a retaining wall on a driveway that has a drop off? The drop off is right outside the garage so if I back up too far I’ll fall in the ditch 🙄
Maybe two courses high, no more. There is no weight in those small bricks to hold anything back if used on a wall even this low - looked about 24-30" tall.
I have yet to see any concrete block hold their color and not turn black or gray from sun and water. If you want to keep the original color, you need to use natural stone.
there is a lot of drainage behind that wall, it would take 20 to 25 inches of water coming down at once IN WINTER to cause the same issue (water getting into cracks > freezing > thawing > bigger cracks > repeat), basically overwhelming the ample drainage, and this would have to be repeated a lot times before any evidence of the issue occurs. The show is film in North America, thus the chances of that much rain in winter is low and snow stays where it lands until it melts. There main issue was with the mud (dirt) behind the wall getting hard and moving the wall. French drains (the piping) are also very effective.
@@ericcarlson6815The tarp is very thin (see around 4:10 ) it is like a screen on the windows, except much thinner.. ie if you had it on top of a glass, you can poor water through it, just much slower - another name for this product is landscaping tarp (google image search "landscaping tarp" )
Did they really just sit those plants back on top after cutting them off at ground level? And do you guys not use concrete and cement for jobs like these? Here in the UK, we'd pour a concrete foundation, and then the blocks would be cemented together on top. This makes the walls indestructible. I can imagine this wall you rebuilt tilting forward slowly as the old wall did.
Concrete is not necessary and looks terrible. Indestructible for something like this is a bad thing. Here they are not building for hundreds of years, 50-100 years is more than enough. The land use will change and make everything obsolete.
@@ClarkJohnson Stanley says to not put it immediately behind the wall. Here they put it back a few inches away from the block with stone in between. (One foot away would have been better) Also, this is a very short wall, designs for anything over 3 feet are much different.
The finished product looks fabulous.
Didn't realize how much went into putting up a retaining wall! Such a physical job! This looks fantastic!
Awesome job and I love the the new stone with the double row of locks, I did not notice the showing of how to connect more drainage pipe and the end caps which are important to keep things from accumulating over time. Keep sharing, may everyone prosper from this kind of stuff, I know it has helped our family over the years, a great blessing.
The retaining wall came out so classy looking, very nice.
Those stones are from TechoBloc - MiniCreta 6" - Champlain Grey.
With Escala Coping
They did a decent job installing. If anything I would recommend excavating more dirt from behind the wall to allow for more gravel. Approximately 1'-2' would help the wall drain better and last longer.
The most important steps with retaining walls are making sure the base and back of the wall have sufficient gravel and cloth to reduce sediment from clogging the gravel.
Jake Weykamp Awesome thank you so much for posting the details!!!
What is the tallest height this method should be used to build?
@@finkthreely7089 3 feet.
Rhetorical question: Why are there so many people posting criticism of the engineering on this when the guy doing it is a pro, and, unless we missed it, none of them have engineering or landscaping degrees that indicate they know better? This is no different than some bullshitter from Queens, who's never served a day in the military, saying he knows better than the generals. Really, WTF?
Man, the finished product looks fabulous.
This is the quality that I like to do for my landdscaping business startup. I am still learning where I am at in Seattle.
I bet there's a lot of business for walls there.
Looks good. How do they exit the drain pipe neatly?
Where did the perforated drain end?
Wow huge improvement .. looks amazing.. great work ❤❤
The rock is a foot for the wall. Gravel or crushed rock tamped down is like concrete. It gets more stable the more in compacts down. That’s why they call it a base rock material at the home improvement store.
Where is it draining to?
You can also use 1' X 2' blocks of concrete 2000 lbs each to build a retaining wall. It requires no mortar and no back fill. It need not be anchored to anything.
Its look good but theres 2 problem that i didnt see.
1 where did he connect the pipe .
2 the gravel need to be open the water can run tru the gravel.
Where is the drainage pipe dumping the water to? I don't see any veep-holes between the concrete blocks of the 1st course.
4:45 her eyes LOL
Crystal Meth ?
She's creepy, with a manly stance and looks like she never laughed a day in her life
Nice catchy music especially at 2:48
Thanks! Our composer is Jordan Critz
Base under wall should be 3/4" minus compacted gravel, not 3/4" clean gravel as it does not compact as well and you wont have a solid base to lay your first row of blocks. 3/4" clean gravel is fine behind wall for drainage but seems like they cut a corner by not using minus on the base.
New wall is a huge improvement! Nice job!
What do you do with the top of the fabric before laying the capstone? Just fold it over or leave it pulled back?
Cut it 3'' below the top of the dirt.
curious what is on either end of the drain tube that was inserted. Open at either end (allowing dirt to fill the tube)? Closed at either end? Hummmm
its probably closed on the end by the house and open sticking out a little towards the end of the driveway towards the road. Watch a guys youtube channel called "Apple Drains" He is the best drainage person out there with decades of experience
rbeck3200tb40 Chuck from Apple drains is awesome but rarely shows a retaining wall.
What a difference when things are done correctly
I had understood you should NOT place landscape fabric behind the wall as eventually, that fabric will clog with soil and actually prevent proper water drainage through the gravel. Any input on that?
T Randall Depends on the fabric. Certain fabrics are meant to do exactly what you are worried about so soil doesn't get into the gravel channel. If soil builds up there it won't drain.
That’s significantly better. Wow!!
That drainage zone should be at a minimum 12 inches behind the wall I only saw maybe 4-6. The two most important aspects of a retaining wall is the base and the drainage. They are the difference between a good construction and one that fails in 2-3 years
If that wall was over 3 feet high, I would agree. However, that wall is hardy holding back anything--so no biggie.
@@AStanton1966 - 12 inches is a good rule to follow, but yeah, the wall is so short and hardly holding anything back so I agree it's a "no biggie" too.
Look at all that nice soft dirt...
The new wall looks great!
For a retaining wall that isn’t on a hill, is it necessary to put in that perforated tubing? We want to replace the old large rocks that act as a retaining wall in front of our house that edges up to the sidewalk. It’s not downhill. Just wondering if that would be necessary?
I live these DIY videos by these guys....great information...
Ahh memories I would watch this like in the morning when I was like 10 and just putting this out there I would make me sad if anything happened to the original cast like Silva and the other guys. I've watched them since I was young
Excellent video- helped us envision what it will take for our wall. But I have to say "Preforated"? maybe "perforated". lol.
What happened to Roger he's supposed to explain it to us
Tom took him to the hardware store to source more caulking
funny
james w cccCCcc. B.B. bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb My. 3AWZ
This wall didn't need any mortaaaa so Roger said no dice
Hes in someone elses yaaaaaaad planting bushes three and a quaaaata inches apaaaaart
Can someone explain why he put fabric behind the wall? Seems like it would trap the mud and push the wall over instead of letting the water drain through
My take is that cloth is porous.
Aaaalright great scott
hahahahaha
Beach&BoardFan aaaaaalright
Great Scott! That turned out nice.
LOL!
Beach&BoardFan I was waiting for it and finally heard it at the end lmao!
Beach&BoardFan 10/10
I wish I could give this more likes. Thanks for sharing
I come to the ATOH comment section for all the armchair contractor “you should of done it like this” comments
68CamaroRS/SS qqqqq
Same here.
@@LuggageStardate except at 0:55. And 2:30-2:45. And 5:49.
I come to the ATOH comment section for all the "they are on TV so they must be right and I am morally superior because I pretend like I know more about this topic than anyone else in the comment section" comments
@@joncrosby8988 Boom
I like watching these videos with the 'lets get to work' songs ha ha...pretty good job
Surely the fabric should have been under the gravel as well? Just from my experience of septic soakaways that gravel under there will fill with mud then you're back to square one.
I think the fabric is removed. It was just there to keep stuff out of the way. Fabric would stop water and fill with mud and stuff and cause it to fall.
@@mattt555 There are fabrics that are very water-permeable called "Non-woven geotextile fabric". Standard "landscape fabric" you use to keep weeds out would not be used here, since that blocks water like you said.
@@mae2759 so he puts the permeable textile to keep mud at bay but let the water drain out? cool!
Where did you source the block from? I'm not finding any that stout that have that level of interlocking.
its teco block
Check out Versa-lock. Similar, but with pins instead of those sliders.
There you go Donald!
Don't really see the point with the drainage pipe, what was the fall across the length of the retaining wall?
How is the dirt going to be washed out of it over time so it can continue to function?
Who is the manufacturer of this concrete blocks? I would like to build one myself. If I have a slope at the highest point (from bottom to top)about 4 feet and from this 4 feet high slope extending 40 feet to the other end (right to left) with the height of about one feet, would this concrete blocks on the high end side strong enough to support the dirt?
If the drainage pipe is perforated how does water run through it to the end. Can anyone explain? Like if there are so many holes I don't get it?
The perforations on the drain actually allow water to GET in and carries the water away from where it is rising or puddling
If that retaining wall is supporting the neighbours property then there is a very unusual soil friction angle...
And thank you, this is a great video! Are there any rules/guidelines that a homeowner should follow to help choose the best material for a retaining wall? Brick, boulders, wood, etc.
Pressure-treated timbers with deadmen are the easiest and cheapest to use in retaining walls. However, the chemical starts to leave the timbers after about 10 years. And the carpenter ants love to move in, chew on the wet wood, and expand their colony to your house. I have an exterminator now treat my timber wall annually and it still standing--holding back 4-feet of earth--going on 22 years. When constructing a wall, you have to look at design and height. Any wall approaching 3 feet or higher is usually called an engineered wall and will fall over if you don't know what you are doing. Stone or block is the way to go if done right. However, it will be the most expensive.
@@AStanton1966 I'm watching this video because I'm about to replace my wood wall with something else. Versa-lok probably. Anyway, it's 6 years old and falling apart because of ants. I didn't know about this problem and didn't do anything to prevent it. Live and learn.
@@steelyspielbergo I learned from my elderly neighbor. He had a wooden retaining wall up against his house which gave the carpenter ants a highway right into his house and wooden structure. I would never recommend butting a wooden wall against a house or building made out of wood.
@@AStanton1966 I worry about that too. My wall is against a basement wall. It's brick so I can't tell if anything got in there. I sprayed a bunch of poison into the weep-holes hoping that might work.
@@steelyspielbergo If you don't see any ants, you are probably good. You can always call a professional and have him give the area a quick spray. Just don't get involved with any of those big named-corporate chain exterminators.
That was quick.
Awesome video. Well explained and looks like a quality job.
Good job
Filter fabric is a no. It gets clogged eventually and then does not let the water through.
I am just trying to quote Dirt Monkey on this one. I would take his opinion above others. I am not a contractor so please explain if I’m wrong or misunderstanding The Dirt Monkey videos.
I think it was removed after it served it's temporary purpose during installation... but idk..
What did they do about that big piece of rock? There seemed to be a large rock when they were putting in the gravel (3:00)
Leave it alone, just work around it.
"it'll look nice with our house too..."
"Yeah.. Good, okay.."
Aka: Shut up and let me do my job
wow, looks great!
The main problem with the original wall was the lack of back-fill. There's no need for the drain pipe because the water is meant to leak out the front bricks.
Does the perforated drain pipe empty anywhere? They didn't show where it emptied to. Or is it supposed to act as a seep reservoir?
aquariuswithfire There is a major void in most videos to provide guidance as to how to properly arrange the drainage pipe. Do you cap it? Do you have it pitched? Do you wrap it with a landscaping fabric sock? Do you lay it level? It’s odd that this topic is so commonly passed over in retaining wall videos.
what kind of blocks are these? I am trouble finding on my local box store website
Do you start the wall at the highest or lowest point?
after digging out for the first gravel, why wouldn't you put fabric first, then add the gravel for the base? Why would you add gravel then the fabric?
The fabric is there to prevent dirt from filling the voids in the gravel.
+Clickety Clack
"The fabric is there to prevent dirt from filling the voids in the gravel."
What prevents dirt from filling voids in the fabric? And if that happens how is that different from filling voids in the gravel?
@@dialecticalmonist3405 There is a space between them. It would have been better to have more clearance from the fabric and the block. The space prevents the fabric from loading up.
Does it matter what size stone you use and why ??
It depends on the height and type of application.
Nice job.for this old house..
At the 5.46 mark that chick pulled away like she got slapped. Hilarious
The OS i
Something invisible happened
That is really nice.
Where's the water draining to?
Into the Earth as it should. I just watched another vid on Mike Hadducks channel he explained/demonstrated the same thing. ua-cam.com/video/5fndKimsWnE/v-deo.html
Let me be more specific...where are the ends of the pipe leading to? If they are just capped, during periods of heavy rain, that pipe will just fill-up completely with water and may not drain anywhere because the ground is so saturated. There needs to be runoff or catch basin somewhere.
It's draining into the homeowner's eyes as tears.
@@cup_and_cone The pipe is covered with small holes, this is not a solid drainage pipe channel that will be directing water to one area. Water that gets in can drain from all those holes the entire length of that pipe.
Probably drains out of the end of the wall towards the street. Just let it run out.
How far below my level line should I allow for two rows of 8” block 2 rows high. I’m at 1” 1/16 now
The best repair to fix a failed block retaining wall, use solid concrete.
Joe Stacks I couldn’t agree more. A failing leaning pieces of block wall looks atrocious.
Solid concrete walls are the way to go.
Was hoping to see Roger on this one.
He did so much in under 6 minutes
Why is everybody having so nice dry and sandy earth? I have to battle with hard loamy earth all the times.
nice wall ... but it will also eventually start to lean from the water pressure, especially in a cold clime ... why ? ... because the water is not directed above the top of the retaining wall but rather is diverted directly into its rear where the swell and pressure can develop ... it is much better to have the water drain down the front of the wall instead of being forced to drain into the rear of the wall. The soil level should reach slightly above the cap height. A valuable $4000 lesson.
Thanks for mentioning this. Yes, I can imagine water rushing down that hill, staying on the surface, and flowing over the retaining wall, as you said, rather than getting it trapped behind the wall. The landscape fabric does not drain well in soil, either, so the water coming down the hill won't even be able to make it to the drainage rock! The water needs to be able to flow easily, or the pressure will build, even on a short wall like this one. I would like to see how it looks in 10 years!
What you need are tiebacks
Some years ago I conceived a notion to pour concrete into forms, and then to put them in a pressurized chamber to set up and harden at 2 to 3 atmospheres. An air compressor, hose, some fittings, and a sealed reinforced enclosure pressurized to high pressure would compress the mix and squeeze out the air bubbles. The blocks would harden at preloaded compression forces and theoretically perform as superior barrier blocks against high weight loads and point intrusions, and probably resist torsional and flexural forces better than standard block also. I want to build a "hard room" but it's not for a bullet-proof case. I want to build a machine that is possible (in its test phase) to require containment if it flies apart when it is revved up. The method may even produce high density block performance made with admixtures of space expanding foam particles to lighten the weight but with extreme block strength. Savings in shipping and ease of installation would then help a lot. Are there no videos on the subject?
I would think instead of pressurizing the container to form the concrete, you would want to pull under vacuum. This would pull all the air bubbles out.
Matixx02 If you multiply the equivalent mass by 10 to the negative third you get the same result.
Does anyone have a link to those those blocks used? Been looking for big ones like that...
Wow that’s a hell of a lot of work.
Hey I like to know where can I buy does bloks? Thanks 👍
perfect. built to last
Great Scott!
Can I use a retaining wall on a driveway that has a drop off? The drop off is right outside the garage so if I back up too far I’ll fall in the ditch 🙄
*Imgur* is your friend. Upload a pic.
4 years of season changes and I bet this wall is starting to look like the old one. Should have poured a high strength concrete wall.
Roots grow!
good job.
Who provides the soundtrack to all the montages?
^^ these stones are overkill but are pretty good.. but the old once would suffice if the wall was built properly.
Maybe two courses high, no more. There is no weight in those small bricks to hold anything back if used on a wall even this low - looked about 24-30" tall.
I have yet to see any concrete block hold their color and not turn black or gray from sun and water. If you want to keep the original color, you need to use natural stone.
Won't stacking the geo tarp vertically like that create a barrier for the water causing the same issue they already had?
there is a lot of drainage behind that wall, it would take 20 to 25 inches of water coming down at once IN WINTER to cause the same issue (water getting into cracks > freezing > thawing > bigger cracks > repeat), basically overwhelming the ample drainage, and this would have to be repeated a lot times before any evidence of the issue occurs. The show is film in North America, thus the chances of that much rain in winter is low and snow stays where it lands until it melts. There main issue was with the mud (dirt) behind the wall getting hard and moving the wall. French drains (the piping) are also very effective.
@@MoneyAndPeople yeah but the tarp is placed behind the drainage, how is the water supposed to get through that into the drainage material?
@@ericcarlson6815The tarp is very thin (see around 4:10 ) it is like a screen on the windows, except much thinner.. ie if you had it on top of a glass, you can poor water through it, just much slower - another name for this product is landscaping tarp (google image search "landscaping tarp" )
@@MoneyAndPeople oh ok, I had assumed it was like a polyethylene tarp
Would it be good or bad to use the sock to cover the perforated pipe?
Wouldn't hurt; more the merrier.
Darby? From SOA?
Did they really just sit those plants back on top after cutting them off at ground level?
And do you guys not use concrete and cement for jobs like these? Here in the UK, we'd pour a concrete foundation, and then the blocks would be cemented together on top. This makes the walls indestructible.
I can imagine this wall you rebuilt tilting forward slowly as the old wall did.
Concrete is not necessary and looks terrible. Indestructible for something like this is a bad thing. Here they are not building for hundreds of years, 50-100 years is more than enough. The land use will change and make everything obsolete.
Excellent job beautiful
Yep, build the wall!
For really good explanations check out Stanley "Dirt Monkey" Genedak. He explains it all very well.
This guy did a good job too. Looks good.
Stanley says not to put vertical fabric behind a retaining wall, but that's what this video shows along with almost every other how-to out there.
@@ClarkJohnson Stanley says to not put it immediately behind the wall. Here they put it back a few inches away from the block with stone in between. (One foot away would have been better) Also, this is a very short wall, designs for anything over 3 feet are much different.
Man I wish my walls was this easy... 😅 😅 😅
Beautiful thumb nail
How much can I charge for doing this job
Who manufactures the blocks used in this episode?
Looks like Unilock
Techo-Bloc Mini Creta Wall System WWW.Techo-Bloc.com
Hi matey sorry to tell you Need to come round to our house
P r e f e r a t i o n s
$4,000???? Screw that, I'll get Mexico to pay for mine
jajajaja no quieres ayuda con tu vieja igual lol
@Real McCoy build a wall around your mom.
Anyone looking for a verrry similar guitar rift should listen to insane clown posse, homies. Jordan Critz must be a serious juggalo! 😂😂😂😂
Great video
How much would it cost me a wall like that if I'm a home owner?
Figure about $500 for materials alone.
Should of shown how the drainage would flow and to where.