Great job, but first of all, the bearing preload has to be set. At a bigger diameter may not be the same runout. That set screw style, is called Set-true chucks. It is actually a very good idea.
I have another vid that I mentioned I had to reset the bearing preload. They were very noisy before and whisper quiet now. As far as the centering of the chuck I have checked it daily just to prove to myself it worked and so far no deviation from center. Granted every time I switch chucks it needs to be set each time but that's pretty minor considering. Thanks for viewing and commenting.
@@masons320 It is a good idea, to mark the flange and the chuck, and always install it in the same spot, at least that way, you can't be to far off. I used to cut the jaws in the past, using a die at the last teeth, and then I ground down those teeth.
@@19mati67 yes I did that ( marking a register point) as well as rotated the jaws ignoring the factory numbers and as I said tried 3 different methods of grinding the jaws most grinding methods tapered the jaws slightly because the grinding stone wore down or the boreing bar flexed . Best results were with an end mill but still somewhat poor results. Possiblity because these little lathes are not as Ridgid as a bigger machine. But again... It's a hobby machine so I curb my expectations.
Just saw the video. Nice, but when trying to set the runout, you need to only go 1/2 the distance to the zero. Remember, you are working on the diameter, not the radius. That's why you needed to tap it so many times, and were going too far. :)
Hi Scott ! These little machines seem to be a constant source of tinkering with them to try & get good results . My 8 x 16 big bore ( 38mm / 1 1/2 " ) is a masterpiece of poor engineering , or maybe just a poor assembly of factory reject parts ? ? ? Hahaha . . . My spindle is about the only thing that isn't a complete waste - though the claimed bore is a few thousandths UNDERSIZED ( grrrrr ) the factory motor is OK , but the electronics needed to be adjusted . . . * slowest speed was nearly 300rpm - just a matter of adjusting the trim pots inside the back . I'm wondering if your grinding errors could be due to very slight headstock misalignment ? My lathe was off by .002 , which I shimmed with 2 cigarette papers ! * The headstock was pointing toward the front bedway , so I placed the shim on the angular 'V' , which pushed the center in the correct position. . . more or less ! ;p Another possible deviation could be the grind on the ways . . . mine is off by .005 at the tailstock end . . . 'tapers from 'true' in the last few inches . . uggh ! Sure would be nice if these machines were infinitely adjustable . . . so that ALL of the poorly fit components could be DIALED IN !
George,. I think you are right. None of these machines are perfect because few if any of is are able to afford perfect, if it even exists anymore. My best lathe was an Atlas 618 from the 50's but I had to sell it to pay for my wife's copay for surgery. I worked my way up from a very old piece of junk Sears by buying, fixing and selling up to that Atlas ( $400.00... try finding a pristine 618 for that price now lol ). So I started over and worked up to this Vevor. I am done with that game tho. Just making the best with what I have. Nothing is perfect. You keep banging away at your end. I am keeping my eye out for old vintage lathes that I can restore... That's fun for me. Good luck to you and may the machinery gods smile upon you and yours.
Before grinding the jaws should the bed be leveled first? I have a MX210V lathe that the headstock is horizontal misaligned by .020" over 6" when the bed is leveled. My headstock is not adjustable.
Before grinding the jaws should the bed be leveled first? I have a MX210V lathe that the headstock is horizontal misaligned by .020" over 6" when the bed is leveled. My headstock is not adjustable.
@@onemischiefmaker7032 Yes most definitely you should level bed. Then what I do is make a centering jig that with a ground rod I align the headstock with brass shims ( slightly loosen/tighten the headstock to the bed ) while sliding the alignment jig along the bed. It's a pain in the a$$ but no other way I know of. I just picked up the cheapest Vevor 7x14, and it took the better part of my day using this method. You need to pull the power supply and motor to accomplish this for access to the headstock bolts. Best of luck and thanks for viewing.
I'd be quite cautious with striking the chuck, esp. laterally, to avoid Brinelling the headstock bearing nearest the chuck.
@@billhalsey6264 Actually my worry was more about the Chinesium head stock casting being damaged.
Great job, but first of all, the bearing preload has to be set. At a bigger diameter may not be the same runout. That set screw style, is called Set-true chucks. It is actually a very good idea.
I have another vid that I mentioned I had to reset the bearing preload. They were very noisy before and whisper quiet now. As far as the centering of the chuck I have checked it daily just to prove to myself it worked and so far no deviation from center. Granted every time I switch chucks it needs to be set each time but that's pretty minor considering. Thanks for viewing and commenting.
@@masons320 It is a good idea, to mark the flange and the chuck, and always install it in the same spot, at least that way, you can't be to far off. I used to cut the jaws in the past, using a die at the last teeth, and then I ground down those teeth.
@@19mati67 yes I did that ( marking a register point) as well as rotated the jaws ignoring the factory numbers and as I said tried 3 different methods of grinding the jaws most grinding methods tapered the jaws slightly because the grinding stone wore down or the boreing bar flexed . Best results were with an end mill but still somewhat poor results. Possiblity because these little lathes are not as Ridgid as a bigger machine. But again... It's a hobby machine so I curb my expectations.
Just saw the video. Nice, but when trying to set the runout, you need to only go 1/2 the distance to the zero. Remember, you are working on the diameter, not the radius. That's why you needed to tap it so many times, and were going too far.
:)
Hi Scott ! These little machines seem to be a constant source of tinkering with them to try & get good results . My 8 x 16 big bore ( 38mm / 1 1/2 " ) is a masterpiece of poor engineering , or maybe just a poor assembly of factory reject parts ? ? ? Hahaha . . . My spindle is about the only thing that isn't a complete waste - though the claimed bore is a few thousandths UNDERSIZED ( grrrrr ) the factory motor is OK , but the electronics needed to be adjusted . . . * slowest speed was nearly 300rpm - just a matter of adjusting the trim pots inside the back .
I'm wondering if your grinding errors could be due to very slight headstock misalignment ? My lathe was off by .002 , which I shimmed with 2 cigarette papers ! * The headstock was pointing toward the front bedway , so I placed the shim on the angular 'V' , which pushed the center in the correct position. . . more or less ! ;p Another possible deviation could be the grind on the ways . . . mine is off by .005 at the tailstock end . . . 'tapers from 'true' in the last few inches . . uggh !
Sure would be nice if these machines were infinitely adjustable . . . so that ALL of the poorly fit components could be DIALED IN !
George,. I think you are right. None of these machines are perfect because few if any of is are able to afford perfect, if it even exists anymore. My best lathe was an Atlas 618 from the 50's but I had to sell it to pay for my wife's copay for surgery. I worked my way up from a very old piece of junk Sears by buying, fixing and selling up to that Atlas ( $400.00... try finding a pristine 618 for that price now lol ). So I started over and worked up to this Vevor. I am done with that game tho. Just making the best with what I have. Nothing is perfect. You keep banging away at your end. I am keeping my eye out for old vintage lathes that I can restore... That's fun for me. Good luck to you and may the machinery gods smile upon you and yours.
@@masons320 Thanks Scott ;)
Before grinding the jaws should the bed be leveled first? I have a MX210V lathe that the headstock is horizontal misaligned by .020" over 6" when the bed is leveled. My headstock is not adjustable.
Before grinding the jaws should the bed be leveled first? I have a MX210V lathe that the headstock is horizontal misaligned by .020" over 6" when the bed is leveled. My headstock is not adjustable.
@@onemischiefmaker7032 Yes most definitely you should level bed. Then what I do is make a centering jig that with a ground rod I align the headstock with brass shims ( slightly loosen/tighten the headstock to the bed ) while sliding the alignment jig along the bed. It's a pain in the a$$ but no other way I know of. I just picked up the cheapest Vevor 7x14, and it took the better part of my day using this method. You need to pull the power supply and motor to accomplish this for access to the headstock bolts. Best of luck and thanks for viewing.
Tap on the jaws.
Way tooo many taps….we get your point…lol
Yeah..chasing perfection is fruitless lol