We have and owl that moved into one of our water tanks, I had to name him Roy. Life is good. It's the little things. That is such a handy tool. Love mine. Thanks Roy
Roy very nice job. Very nicely explaining video this week. Can't wait to see more videos soon my friend. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge on. Fab on. Weld on. Keep making. God bless.
Great tools and see excellent die making guide here. If I may add an additional tip? A sacrificial striking face welded to the struck end of your top die can be of some benefit. Markedly so if your working large stock where you're having to "give her the beans" as would be the case setting fullers in hammer heads or drawing the initial tapers on a cross/straight pein. Just simple cuts of rebar seem to work about as good as anything. Once it gets used up, just cut it off and replace it. I'd propose it's much cheaper than die blank replacement. Also noted Mr Roy is using soft face hammer on his mild steel dies in the video. Hadn't thought of that, however it makes sense. A hard forging hammer may be harder on the dies struck end. Thanks so much for the tutorial Mr Roy! God bless now Crawford out 🙏⚒️🔥🧙🏼♂️
I made one set of flat dies that have 3/8" spacers on each end. I used 4140 for the top die and mild for the bottom. It works great after you fuller thicker material where you don't want to accidentally make the thinner end less than 3/8".
i dont know if this is useful to anyone but for really nice crisp sharp shoulder on a set down try using a guillotine tool then forging the slanted side out. (remember not to hit to hard though or it will cut)
We have and owl that moved into one of our water tanks, I had to name him Roy. Life is good. It's the little things. That is such a handy tool. Love mine. Thanks Roy
Glad you are enjoying your tool brother 😊
@@ChristCenteredIronworks you missed an "A "in there with the tool👍 I got your back
For a guy that is about to start in his blacksmithing journey, your channel and website are unbelievably valuable, thank you!
My guillotine tool from you is working great and holding up very well. Thank you.👏👏👏
Roy very nice job. Very nicely explaining video this week. Can't wait to see more videos soon my friend. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge on. Fab on. Weld on. Keep making. God bless.
Really looking forward to getting one of those C-frame.
Great tools and see excellent die making guide here.
If I may add an additional tip?
A sacrificial striking face welded to the struck end of your top die can be of some benefit. Markedly so if your working large stock where you're having to "give her the beans" as would be the case setting fullers in hammer heads or drawing the initial tapers on a cross/straight pein.
Just simple cuts of rebar seem to work about as good as anything. Once it gets used up, just cut it off and replace it. I'd propose it's much cheaper than die blank replacement.
Also noted Mr Roy is using soft face hammer on his mild steel dies in the video.
Hadn't thought of that, however it makes sense. A hard forging hammer may be harder on the dies struck end.
Thanks so much for the tutorial Mr Roy!
God bless now
Crawford out 🙏⚒️🔥🧙🏼♂️
i definitely need to take time to make these. its been on the "list" for so long...
Thanks Roy, I found this very helpful. I keep thinking of a leaf veining swedge but this makes more sense to start with.
I made one set of flat dies that have 3/8" spacers on each end. I used 4140 for the top die and mild for the bottom. It works great after you fuller thicker material where you don't want to accidentally make the thinner end less than 3/8".
Thanks Roy, great video. Wayne
i dont know if this is useful to anyone but for really nice crisp sharp shoulder on a set down try using a guillotine tool then forging the slanted side out. (remember not to hit to hard though or it will cut)
Nice tool
What steel do you use for the inserts
Mild steel right now eventually we will offer a 4140 option in the future 🙂
🍻