@@Shadowcloud1 there is no doubt about it that the car feels more stable than nicks under load. This could also be due to the GT having coilovers and nicks having stock shockies. Until we put one of these kits in nicks car we can't confirm for sure, too many variables at this stage.
My main thought on the control arm situation. When the car leaves if there's any give in the push the control arm will attempt to pull forward. Fixing a bolt and washer to the back of the bush could help keep your caster settings in place and add a little more consistency though I'd think if there was a little forward movement it would only further increase the caster. Only thing then would be looking at the geometry and working out what adding caster would do to the camber and toe of the front suspension. Main goal to get the suspension to do a specific thing once the car leaves at the line. If the front tires pull forward hard, does it induce a too much camber/toe taking away traction as the wheels aren't flat with the surface or pointing in the right direction (all be it only slightly) I think I heard PFI speed adding toe in on their FWD Honda's so when they leave the front lifts and the wheels point straight instead of being toed out a bunch by movement in the steering geometry under full acceleration rather then when parked.
Reason being when under acceleration, the wheel turns and pulls forward. This then pulls on the control arm and control arm bushes. So if the front control arm bush was as solid as possible, when under acceleration the rear of the control arm would be pulled towards the outside of the car. and then the acceleration is transferred into the body which then begins the car moving down the track.
Great ideas but I really have no clue when it comes to fwd suspension geometry... but trust me, we will all learn sooner or later. A few experiments and we will make it work better :)
@@MattBerrymotorsport You could also look at the traction bars the honda guys use to stop the wishbone pulling forwards/backwards. It does affect up/down travel as its then on an Arc but with coilovers theres usually much less travel than standard anyway.
I got "Really" confused when you pointed to it having front control arms in the back, then I watched it like 5 times and pointed to the intercooler in the back. my train of thought was "I've only had 3 beers, I"m not drunk yet.. wait.. no.. IT'S GOT TWO F*CKING Engines... WAT!..."
haha too funny! Yeah shes my main girl, ran 10.2 at the drags on stock engines and stock manual boxes, just all the bolt on fruit, turbos, e85 ect. was making around 550 at all 4... since building the engines its making just under 800hp now but havent got to race it yet cause of covid :( hopefully early next year.
@@MattBerrymotorsport Still that is wicked, I've just picked up a 97 2 door life and loving the little nugget. Going to slowly turn it into a clean looking cool sounding car (Little turbo so I can Stututut around town) Found you guys after buying Scarlet (Basic b*itch name I know). Glad to be subbed and following along, definitely wasn't expecting a reply. Keep up the good work! me and my friends will be watching closely.
@@PupDume thays awesome dude i had a stock starlet once, planned to keep it as a clean daily and here we are haha they are such fun cars its hard not to modify them! Thanks for your comment dude im glad you like the content
Work was good thanks for asking🤣. The strut tops can't be put on 90 degrees because the oem strut tops have built in caster adjustment. If you out them on backwards it zeroes the caster, the correct way round increases caster. My d2 coilovers top hats don't have the oem built in caster but some other coilovers do have it offset like the factory top mounts aswell. 👍🏾
Same kit from powerflex has more beautiful packaging and has bolt lubrication :D Please visit the suspension geometry test stand and show you what angles you got I saw a starlet in Russia who had additional holes in the glass so that the upper supports could be deployed. Also, pay attention to the upper supports of the MDU coilover damper for the AE101, where a slot is made in the support at an angle, caster and camber are simultaneously adjusted.
@@MattBerrymotorsport anti lift is great as maintains the negative camber well and does give a bit of castor too. simple, cheap and does work well. Far more stable under hard braking.
ive damages engines with/without using the washer. It was detonation that was causing the oiling issues, not oil pressure. Use a good quality oil and keep an eye on the temp
@@MattBerrymotorsport I’m building a spear parts build by my self but I need your help and advice I’ve been watching your videos for about two years an it drove me to get a 1985 Toyota starlet an I got a 4e engine building at home but I don’t have everything for the engine as yet
Enjoying the Starlet content matt. Some good info, keep it up. Got a glanza v myself here in the uk 👍.
awesome to see you trying out these types of products for starlets. so much conflicting information online about stuff like this its unreal
That being said we don't know if it even works yet 😂
@@MattBerrymotorsport Can't wait to hear what you think!
@@Shadowcloud1 there is no doubt about it that the car feels more stable than nicks under load. This could also be due to the GT having coilovers and nicks having stock shockies. Until we put one of these kits in nicks car we can't confirm for sure, too many variables at this stage.
@@MattBerrymotorsport Mate, if you like em, im buying em. I'm on ysr coilovers so should be good :D
@@MattBerrymotorsport They do mate.
My main thought on the control arm situation. When the car leaves if there's any give in the push the control arm will attempt to pull forward. Fixing a bolt and washer to the back of the bush could help keep your caster settings in place and add a little more consistency though I'd think if there was a little forward movement it would only further increase the caster. Only thing then would be looking at the geometry and working out what adding caster would do to the camber and toe of the front suspension. Main goal to get the suspension to do a specific thing once the car leaves at the line. If the front tires pull forward hard, does it induce a too much camber/toe taking away traction as the wheels aren't flat with the surface or pointing in the right direction (all be it only slightly) I think I heard PFI speed adding toe in on their FWD Honda's so when they leave the front lifts and the wheels point straight instead of being toed out a bunch by movement in the steering geometry under full acceleration rather then when parked.
Reason being when under acceleration, the wheel turns and pulls forward. This then pulls on the control arm and control arm bushes. So if the front control arm bush was as solid as possible, when under acceleration the rear of the control arm would be pulled towards the outside of the car. and then the acceleration is transferred into the body which then begins the car moving down the track.
Great ideas but I really have no clue when it comes to fwd suspension geometry... but trust me, we will all learn sooner or later. A few experiments and we will make it work better :)
@@MattBerrymotorsport I look forward to seeing them, youtube is kind of your friend, there's some damn smart people sharing their knowledge on here.
@@MattBerrymotorsport You could also look at the traction bars the honda guys use to stop the wishbone pulling forwards/backwards. It does affect up/down travel as its then on an Arc but with coilovers theres usually much less travel than standard anyway.
@@MattBerrymotorsport my-test-11.slatic.net/p/bb286ad07164097da5598a2aa016e991.jpg_720x720q80.jpg
"yeah Good chat" Still gets me every time! 🤣
I got "Really" confused when you pointed to it having front control arms in the back, then I watched it like 5 times and pointed to the intercooler in the back. my train of thought was "I've only had 3 beers, I"m not drunk yet.. wait.. no.. IT'S GOT TWO F*CKING Engines... WAT!..."
haha too funny! Yeah shes my main girl, ran 10.2 at the drags on stock engines and stock manual boxes, just all the bolt on fruit, turbos, e85 ect. was making around 550 at all 4... since building the engines its making just under 800hp now but havent got to race it yet cause of covid :( hopefully early next year.
@@MattBerrymotorsport Still that is wicked, I've just picked up a 97 2 door life and loving the little nugget. Going to slowly turn it into a clean looking cool sounding car (Little turbo so I can Stututut around town) Found you guys after buying Scarlet (Basic b*itch name I know). Glad to be subbed and following along, definitely wasn't expecting a reply. Keep up the good work! me and my friends will be watching closely.
This made my day though, thank you so much.
@@PupDume thays awesome dude i had a stock starlet once, planned to keep it as a clean daily and here we are haha they are such fun cars its hard not to modify them! Thanks for your comment dude im glad you like the content
Work was good thanks for asking🤣. The strut tops can't be put on 90 degrees because the oem strut tops have built in caster adjustment. If you out them on backwards it zeroes the caster, the correct way round increases caster. My d2 coilovers top hats don't have the oem built in caster but some other coilovers do have it offset like the factory top mounts aswell. 👍🏾
Same kit from powerflex has more beautiful packaging and has bolt lubrication :D
Please visit the suspension geometry test stand and show you what angles you got
I saw a starlet in Russia who had additional holes in the glass so that the upper supports could be deployed.
Also, pay attention to the upper supports of the MDU coilover damper for the AE101, where a slot is made in the support at an angle, caster and camber are simultaneously adjusted.
Did you end up modifying this to avoid it losing alignment as you mentioned near the end of the vid?
I'm going to make a diy anti lift and link the bushings with rhs tube. It will also double as a mounting point for my skid plate. It's a rally starlet
I fitted the anti lift kit to my starlet when I had it, makes a massive difference, so did the coil overs....LOL
Awesome mick we are already brainstorming how to male some custom arms to give us a few more degrees of castor
@@MattBerrymotorsport anti lift is great as maintains the negative camber well and does give a bit of castor too. simple, cheap and does work well. Far more stable under hard braking.
You should pair this with a ultra racing lower 4 point bar honestly such a difference with both of them together
I ve seen confliting information about the washer online.should i put it back on or no?(i saw that you didn t)
ive damages engines with/without using the washer. It was detonation that was causing the oiling issues, not oil pressure. Use a good quality oil and keep an eye on the temp
will this kit fit a base model p80 starlet?
Custom a new top mount for caster instead of camber adjustment ! I’ve got a sample of how it looks like
Nice I think I need to try some of those
Do you reckon it's worth it on a NA with no torque?
i think so, it makes the car a bit more stable at high speeds also
I'm good thanks man, how are you?
Can I install this on a bmw E46 320i?
Can you use this kit on the a starlet with stock shock absorbers?
yes
Nice, thanks for sharing
Can you send me the link of that bushing please
just look up the part number on google
What type of tires this car Matt
Black round ones
chop the strut tower and tube it hahaha then you can set the caster where ever you want
How is tyre wear after these?
After a wheel alignment, no worries at all
Reset your toe in after adjusting anything else
I’ve been asking for your help some time time now an u ignore
Never seen your name pop up. What's up?
@@MattBerrymotorsport I’m building a spear parts build by my self but I need your help and advice I’ve been watching your videos for about two years an it drove me to get a 1985 Toyota starlet an I got a 4e engine building at home but I don’t have everything for the engine as yet