Getting a Dead, Hung-Up, Dangerous Tree on the Ground

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  • Опубліковано 29 гру 2024

КОМЕНТАРІ • 14

  • @noname-xu7fi
    @noname-xu7fi 2 роки тому

    Quick question why are you pulling off the bucket not the draw bar

    • @ProductiveRecreation
      @ProductiveRecreation  2 роки тому

      I do both depending on the situation, but I favor the loader because I like having ballast weight on the 3 point hitch for traction, which usually is an implement, not a ballast box or something I can pull from. With the loader I have more ability to lift the butt of the log/tree if it digs in, and the chain is a lot farther from me in the unlikely event it fails. I’d love a 3 point hitch skidding winch, but they’re more than I can afford.

    • @noname-xu7fi
      @noname-xu7fi 2 роки тому

      @@ProductiveRecreation all understandable points thank you for your time

  • @Letha222
    @Letha222 2 роки тому

    Persistence!

  • @birchcreekbandits8874
    @birchcreekbandits8874 2 роки тому

    I've got a question, I inherited the same tractor. can you switch his tractor in between two and four wheel drive? if so how do you switch between the two? thanks

    • @ProductiveRecreation
      @ProductiveRecreation  2 роки тому +1

      Yes you can. I only use 4WD when I need it. The 4WD model has 4 levers to the transmission. Starting behind the dash, on the left is the range selector, and the right is the gear shift within a range. Behind that, there is a horizontal lever right in the center between the operators legs on top of the transmission cover. This is the 4WD engagement. If it’s horizontal, that’s 2WD. Pull it up with the tractor in neutral and with the clutch depressed to shift to 4WD. In 4WD the lever will be at a small upward angle from horizontal. The last lever on the transmission is on the left side under the seat, which engages and disengages the PTO. I’ve made several videos with the Ford 1700 you may want to check out. It’s a good machine, but it’s hard to get parts these days because it’s considered obsolete.

    • @birchcreekbandits8874
      @birchcreekbandits8874 2 роки тому

      @@ProductiveRecreation that seemed to work and thanks. I'm currently living in town but I'm moving back to the country where I have the tractor and spend a lot of time. So videos like this help when trying to diagnose and figure out the solution to them when others aren't around. Another question, have you ever ran into your front wheels locking up and not turning? It was doing this today while I was using the brush hog.

    • @ProductiveRecreation
      @ProductiveRecreation  2 роки тому +1

      @@birchcreekbandits8874 By not turning do you mean the wheels won’t rotate (roll), or you can’t steer? I’ve not had either issue (tractor always used regularly and well maintained), but I have some ideas depending on what you mean. I did take out the old steering gear and replace with hydrostatic, but that was because it was worn out and had too much free play, not locking up.

    • @birchcreekbandits8874
      @birchcreekbandits8874 2 роки тому

      @@ProductiveRecreation Sorry, I meant they weren't rolling. They seemed to be working fine about 30 minutes into mowing and then I started turning a few times and they were locking up.

    • @ProductiveRecreation
      @ProductiveRecreation  2 роки тому +1

      @@birchcreekbandits8874 Have you checked the oil level in the front axle? There is a threaded plug with a dipstick on the top right side of the axle near the tractor frame. Also, there is an oil reservoir at each wheel hub for the final reduction drive gears. The level check/fill plug is on the side of the hub, and drain plug on the bottom of t he hub. Easiest to access them with the front wheel removed. If the wheels won’t rotate it could be the differential, or a hub drive gear, or if it is linked with turning, it could also be related to the kingpins and joint inside that large ball at the end of the axle. I’ve never had one of those apart.