Can't wait to try this over the weekend (Ford Explorer 1998 V8 with same intermittent starting problems). BTW, "dielectric" grease is non-conductive and actually shouldn't be used on pins/contacts (I remembered that from years ago and a quick "JFGI" re-confirmed it). So, my guess is your twisting/"tweaking" the posts is what cured the problem. Thank you, so much, for posting this!
Ok! The the grease isn't for promoting conductivity...... it's used as a anti-corridor. You sound like an educated man what's a better alternative that is less interfering conductivity as far as a grease??? No liquid oils like WD or PB.
Mine's a 1993 Mazda B3000 variant, but same problem. Crank, crank, crank--no fire. I had to have it towed home 3 separate times. Completely maddening. After trying every suggestion everywhere (exc. for replacing the relay, doh!), I finally decided to change the fuel pump. Luckily, youtube had a number of videos showing how to do it by just tilting the bed (although in retrospect, it wouldn't been any harder to just remove the last two bolts and slide the bed back instead of working under it with the risk of falling). When I went to remove it, I discovered the electrical contact area FILLED with wet compost: a mixture of dirt and decomposing leaves. There were even remnants of a few acorns, indicating a critter had visited, so add (smallish) animal waste to the mix. Dampness and dirt are bad for electrical contacts, but at that stage I figured it was ordinary accumulation. However, when I got it cleaned off and disconnected the connector I discovered that the factory original silicone grease had dried up to uselessness. The combination of the dirt and the loss of protection was loss of electrical. (More than once the starting problem happened during wet conditions.) I replaced just the silicone grease (although not nearly enough--sometimes I'm too stinking cheap) and put it back together. I've only had one problem since, and when that happened, I remembered I'd never thought about the relay. I opened the hood, removed and replaced the relay half a dozen times (scraping and improving the electrical contact in the process) and it fired right up. No problem again. If it returns, I'll replace the relay and continue on to clean up and re-grease, liberally, the connector again (maybe without having to raise the bed). I've changed my behavior one way: I turn the key only enough to energize the fuel pump, and LISTEN for it: tough with the other buzzer(s) going. You can wait for them to time out and then turn the key off and on again and only the fuel pump will be heard for a short time while it pressures up. If I hear it, I continue on to the starter. If I don't hear it, I don't mess around trying to start it--I know it's useless. Instead I'll check the relay under the hood first. Thanks for doing a video on this all-too-common malady of the Ranger line.
I'm having the same problem with my 94 Ranger, i pulled the relays and put them back in and it started, i will probably replace the whole relay box, thanks for the video!
take a small flat head screwdriver and tweak the metal connectors in order to tighten them up. If that doesn't work then it's a broken or corroded wire. good luck
THANK YOU! for posting this. I discovered it independently, but I had the truck towed home at least 3 times before getting the message... I'll add that, I had given up, and was starting to replace the fuel pump, when I saw the Pile of Crap the rodents had piled up and around the electrical connections, and decided to clean that out first. When I did, I discovered the silicone sealant had all dried out, and I gambled that cleaning everything and replacing it would be worth it. It was. However, the KEY thing was what you've identified--the stupid fuel pump relay. WHY is this such a POS??? A few cents more to get a RELIABLE relay? Chicken-sh*t engineers who are not worthy of the name... Here's the key, Ranger/MazdaB-series owners: BEFORE you run into the trouble of hitting the ignition key and getting No-Start-Condition, start training your ears to listen for the "hum" of the fuel pump. If you don't hear that hum (which shuts off after the fuel line is pressurized), your vehicle ain't starting. Forget it. IF that happens to you--you hit the starter and the engine turns and turns but won't fire--do try taking out your fuel pump relay and re-seating it. If that doesn't work, try dropping it on the pavement--in case the contacts are stuck. Then spend a few bucks and get a replacement--and a replacement for the replacement for the glove box--on the web. Thanks, Justa4banger, for a service to mankind. (In my case it was a 6banger, but can't we all be friends?) Cheers!
I have a 1995 Ford Ranger with the same problem. I traced problem to the wiring harness from the pcm rubbing on the valve cover between cover and the fire wall. With the key on I found that moving the bundle of wires the fuel pump would come on and off. Hope this helps because I spent a lot of time on this !!!!
just got done with the 3rd ranger with this problem. The right way is to dismantle the fuse block and depin the terminals and retighten or replace them. I just find my hack to work great in a pinch. Good luck.
Hey man did you have the 2.3? I cross jumped relays and they got me 20 miles Or so and she won't crank, then next morning started up no problems. Were you having the same issues with it?
My 94 3.0 ranger rwd still dies while driving or wont start. I wiggle the relay for the fuel pump and hear a click get in and turn the key and it starts right up. Great Googly-Wooglies this is frustrating.
92 ranger with the 2.3l an I can always here my pump but it doesn't build up an quit,it'll just keep running with the key on,sometimes it fires right up in the morning an sometimes I pump the throttle an on occasions have to ether it b4 it will start. Any ideas?
Ive had a problem for over a year. Hit and miss starting then good for a while. Last summer it just died. Jumped it a few times, ran it for an hour on the highway came home turned it off and it wouldn't start. Changed the starter. battery and solenoid, Then it ran for several months, then a month ago it just died on me on a busy road. The check engine light came on but the steering and brakes seized up. The tow truck driver helped me jump it. it started then died. He said it was the alternator, I changed it. It was still on/off starting, so I had a pro come look at it He banged on the fuel tank then put the AC relay in the fuel relay spot...switched them and it started. Then yesterday it started acting up again so I bought a new relay thingy and now it won't start at all. I wonder if it may be a ground wire? I've spent over 1200 on new parts and I'm single on disability. No one seems to know what to do. I'd like to get a diagnostic on it but I can't afford any more tows without results. Any idea of what it could be? I'm hoping its not the fuel pump as I just filled the tank and can't drive it off.
It was my daily driver from 08 till 2015 it's a tough tough car cast iron 2300 with a 4 speed and limited slip rear end good build quality compared to these terrible 2300s in the rangers
i have a 2003 Ranger 4.0L that has been doing this for 4 1/2 years, just 5 times in that time! but 2 have happened in the last week! pissing me off, my fuse box under the hood looks NOTHING like this one, my fuel relay is a smaller white relay in a bank of 8!
I would start over and wire up a key on relay. They have relays with the connector at the auto part store. Just do a basic relay wire up with a key on. Never fails.
Yes. the one I rig repaired was for the pump. the terminals in the fuse box was worn from engine vibrations. "bad contact" so I forced a connection. not the best but will get you pointed in the right direction instead of going for the pump first. worked for me.
Can't wait to try this over the weekend (Ford Explorer 1998 V8 with same intermittent starting problems). BTW, "dielectric" grease is non-conductive and actually shouldn't be used on pins/contacts (I remembered that from years ago and a quick "JFGI" re-confirmed it). So, my guess is your twisting/"tweaking" the posts is what cured the problem. Thank you, so much, for posting this!
Ok! The the grease isn't for promoting conductivity...... it's used as a anti-corridor. You sound like an educated man what's a better alternative that is less interfering conductivity as far as a grease??? No liquid oils like WD or PB.
This worked for me. Saved a lot of time from doing the trial and error routine.
Mine's a 1993 Mazda B3000 variant, but same problem. Crank, crank, crank--no fire. I had to have it towed home 3 separate times. Completely maddening. After trying every suggestion everywhere (exc. for replacing the relay, doh!), I finally decided to change the fuel pump. Luckily, youtube had a number of videos showing how to do it by just tilting the bed (although in retrospect, it wouldn't been any harder to just remove the last two bolts and slide the bed back instead of working under it with the risk of falling).
When I went to remove it, I discovered the electrical contact area FILLED with wet compost: a mixture of dirt and decomposing leaves. There were even remnants of a few acorns, indicating a critter had visited, so add (smallish) animal waste to the mix. Dampness and dirt are bad for electrical contacts, but at that stage I figured it was ordinary accumulation. However, when I got it cleaned off and disconnected the connector I discovered that the factory original silicone grease had dried up to uselessness.
The combination of the dirt and the loss of protection was loss of electrical. (More than once the starting problem happened during wet conditions.) I replaced just the silicone grease (although not nearly enough--sometimes I'm too stinking cheap) and put it back together. I've only had one problem since, and when that happened, I remembered I'd never thought about the relay. I opened the hood, removed and replaced the relay half a dozen times (scraping and improving the electrical contact in the process) and it fired right up. No problem again. If it returns, I'll replace the relay and continue on to clean up and re-grease, liberally, the connector again (maybe without having to raise the bed).
I've changed my behavior one way: I turn the key only enough to energize the fuel pump, and LISTEN for it: tough with the other buzzer(s) going. You can wait for them to time out and then turn the key off and on again and only the fuel pump will be heard for a short time while it pressures up. If I hear it, I continue on to the starter. If I don't hear it, I don't mess around trying to start it--I know it's useless. Instead I'll check the relay under the hood first.
Thanks for doing a video on this all-too-common malady of the Ranger line.
2000 Ford Explorer Sport intermittent startup - tweaked the relay prongs a tiny bit, and the fuel pump starts every time. Thanks a lot for sharing!
That's great to hear.
I'm having the same problem with my 94 Ranger, i pulled the relays and put them back in and it started, i will probably replace the whole relay box, thanks for the video!
allways helps
Thank you for this video...it helps, I just happen to change the relay for the fuel pump and it works....
Sometimes, the contacts in the fuse panel are bad and a ground wire will need to be added.
Awesome Tip:::Thank you, just what I needed...great video and excellent patience........
Springfield, VA.
take a small flat head screwdriver and tweak the metal connectors in order to tighten them up. If that doesn't work then it's a broken or corroded wire. good luck
THANK YOU! for posting this.
I discovered it independently, but I had the truck towed home at least 3 times before getting the message...
I'll add that, I had given up, and was starting to replace the fuel pump, when I saw the Pile of Crap the rodents had piled up and around the electrical connections, and decided to clean that out first.
When I did, I discovered the silicone sealant had all dried out, and I gambled that cleaning everything and replacing it would be worth it. It was.
However, the KEY thing was what you've identified--the stupid fuel pump relay. WHY is this such a POS??? A few cents more to get a RELIABLE relay? Chicken-sh*t engineers who are not worthy of the name...
Here's the key, Ranger/MazdaB-series owners: BEFORE you run into the trouble of hitting the ignition key and getting No-Start-Condition, start training your ears to listen for the "hum" of the fuel pump. If you don't hear that hum (which shuts off after the fuel line is pressurized), your vehicle ain't starting. Forget it.
IF that happens to you--you hit the starter and the engine turns and turns but won't fire--do try taking out your fuel pump relay and re-seating it. If that doesn't work, try dropping it on the pavement--in case the contacts are stuck. Then spend a few bucks and get a replacement--and a replacement for the replacement for the glove box--on the web.
Thanks, Justa4banger, for a service to mankind. (In my case it was a 6banger, but can't we all be friends?)
Cheers!
Yeup. This is just a hack. but does the trick for free. good luck.
I have a 1995 Ford Ranger with the same problem. I traced problem to the wiring harness from the pcm rubbing on the valve cover between cover and the fire wall. With the key on I found that moving the bundle of wires the fuel pump would come on and off. Hope this helps because I spent a lot of time on this !!!!
just got done with the 3rd ranger with this problem. The right way is to dismantle the fuse block and depin the terminals and retighten or replace them. I just find my hack to work great in a pinch. Good luck.
Hey man did you have the 2.3? I cross jumped relays and they got me 20 miles Or so and she won't crank, then next morning started up no problems. Were you having the same issues with it?
My 94 3.0 ranger rwd still dies while driving or wont start. I wiggle the relay for the fuel pump and hear a click get in and turn the key and it starts right up. Great Googly-Wooglies this is frustrating.
had same issue, intermittent not starting. Replaced fuel pump relay, same issue. Replaced ECC relay, and boom, fixed
Happy my hack helped.
Most Excellent!
My explorer had this issue the ground wire under the fuse relay loosed up.
92 ranger with the 2.3l an I can always here my pump but it doesn't build up an quit,it'll just keep running with the key on,sometimes it fires right up in the morning an sometimes I pump the throttle an on occasions have to ether it b4 it will start. Any ideas?
Sorry. Sounds like a pressure problem
@@Justa4banger79 I've had a new regulator in the console but I haven't been able to change it,thanks for replying have a good Christmas
yeup. customer regularly returns for other repairs and it's still working.
hope it works out for you. good luck.
Does this work for 94 ford explorer
Did it stay reliable?
Hell yeah thank you man.
Judith Barrron ..Awsome this worked for you.
I know this is a very old video but why did you put grease on the relay?
Electrical Grease? It wasn't a corrosion problem it was a vibration and heating of the terminal which weakend the crimp.
Electrical grease does help make contact you can put grease on it if you want but electrical grease not wheel bearing Grease
Ive had a problem for over a year. Hit and miss starting then good for a while. Last summer it just died. Jumped it a few times, ran it for an hour on the highway came home turned it off and it wouldn't start. Changed the starter. battery and solenoid, Then it ran for several months, then a month ago it just died on me on a busy road. The check engine light came on but the steering and brakes seized up. The tow truck driver helped me jump it. it started then died. He said it was the alternator, I changed it. It was still on/off starting, so I had a pro come look at it He banged on the fuel tank then put the AC relay in the fuel relay spot...switched them and it started. Then yesterday it started acting up again so I bought a new relay thingy and now it won't start at all. I wonder if it may be a ground wire? I've spent over 1200 on new parts and I'm single on disability. No one seems to know what to do. I'd like to get a diagnostic on it but I can't afford any more tows without results. Any idea of what it could be? I'm hoping its not the fuel pump as I just filled the tank and can't drive it off.
The wire under the negative prong always loosens up.
Sweet. The customer sold that truck last year. I still going.
I got a Ford pinto 1980 and I'm about to rebuild my 2300 after a burned ring
Awsome. I like pintos. I seen one at the junkyard a few years back. It was way cool.
It was my daily driver from 08 till 2015 it's a tough tough car cast iron 2300 with a 4 speed and limited slip rear end good build quality compared to these terrible 2300s in the rangers
the connectors in the fuse box I meant.
i have a 2003 Ranger 4.0L that has been doing this for 4 1/2 years, just 5 times in that time! but 2 have happened in the last week! pissing me off, my fuse box under the hood looks NOTHING like this one, my fuel relay is a smaller white relay in a bank of 8!
I would start over and wire up a key on relay. They have relays with the connector at the auto part store. Just do a basic relay wire up with a key on. Never fails.
If I disconnect the negative and re connect ,truck starts right up
Weird. I haven't seen that problem yet. A ranger? Google your issue. Sometimes google will get you close. Sometimes it gets you no where. Good luck.
ones a pump other is injectors
Yes. the one I rig repaired was for the pump. the terminals in the fuse box was worn from engine vibrations. "bad contact" so I forced a connection. not the best but will get you pointed in the right direction instead of going for the pump first. worked for me.
Correct.
Ise todo eso pero al ponele swithch kema el fuse
A lot of audio bleed over, Two people talking at once . Can not understand