Many thanks, this was more of a problem with the earlier mk2 focus when they used lead free solder which tends to crack with different temperatures the later version face lifted from 08 mk2.5 it didn't seem as common but I've known it to happen 😊
I've heard that comment before and although I cannot prove or disprove that theory, I spend much of my life as an electronic engineer and we used to lab tests which included environment effects where extreme shifts took place between low and normal temperatue ranges and also extreme shifts between the two for example -30 to + 50 but not rapid changes as they dont usually occur naturally it takes time for the vehicle to warm up from freezing conditions. It was rare to get joint failures on good quality lead free solder unless you mix the two in the same joint as the expansion contraction varies between the two materials. In terms of the Focus MK2 03-10 at least in my model, the culprit is more likely to be the cable that thing is not supported properly it just hangs in space, although the connector has a retainer on it, the jolts which come from speed bumps etc, or just steeering corners, are probably enough over time to cause the cracks. The evidence on this is kinda supported by the fact that the cracks only appeared on the connector ends, not in the middle. Thats my theory anyway - Hope you liked the video, and if you are not s subscriber, please feel free to subscribe as I need all the support I can get😉
Just had mine done from a mobile mechanic that done it at my doorstep for £150... It only took about 45 mins... My vehicle is the mk2.5 2008 focus btw...
OK, good for you, glad it worked out for you. If you dont have the tools to do it yourself, or are not confident you can do it yourself, thats a good option. If you book it into a garage for a replacement ecu/panel then it can cost up to £1k. So well done.
When I go over a particularly bumpy bit of road, I get a warning chime and the central "i" light flashes. It doesn't happen all the time, but when it does it is unnerving. It seems to me that some wiring is loose, cracked or faulty in some way. I'm worried it might short out the whole system. Trying to explain this fault to my mechanic is proving frustrating. Any advice would be hugely appreciated. (Ford Focus 2008 MK2. Instrument panel looks exactly the same.)
This sounds like it could very well be the same issue as is explained in my video. But , in order to discover that you would need to take out the unit which is quite simple and then take a close look under a stong light possibly with a magnifier glass or a microscope unless your eyes are like Superman 😄and take a close look. And if needed reflow the solder. This is a very common failure on these models. Anyway, if it helps you please consider subscribing as the channel is tiny and needs all the help it can get. Let us know how you get on. BTW, you will need a T24 Torque bit to take out the two screws at the base of theinstrument panel before pulling it out, then release the cable at the back which has a wire retainer clip on it. Cheers - Tel
Hello! I'm from Brazil, this week I dismantled the panel of my 2009 Focus Duratec MK2.5, I took it to a technician who redid all the welds on the panel plate. I also cleaned several connectors, however, now the message "Engine fault" is appearing on the panel. I will ask the mechanic to run the scanner to detect where the problem is, as the vehicle is working perfectly.
Hi Caveira, Although its true to say that the connector is the most common problem on the Cluster Panel, it does not exclude the possibility of either real faults on the engine or other faults on the ECU. So what you did was a good first measure, they will be able to plug in the diagnostics and reveal the problem. It could well be something simple like a defective sensor, or a blockage that needs cleaning or something like that. How is the weather in Brazil ?, are you in Sao Paulo ? - Good luck with the car and let us know how it goes. Cheers Tel
@@TELsBENCH Hello! What is worrying is that the problem could even be a broken wire among all the hundreds of wires in the wiring. But I'm going to start solving the problem with the Scaner's computerized diagnosis. And as soon as I have a result, I will post it here again in this video. I live in the extreme south of Brazil, State of Rio Grande do Sul, city of Carlos Barbosa, the city is small but very beautiful and economically prosperous. Big hug!
I have the same error as you now, maybe I damaged something during the soldering. I have the error codes u0140 and u0155. Any news on you side in Brazil ?
@@srvjean Hello friend! Well, let's go in parts. I went to a specialist in automotive diagnostics and vehicle modules here in the City of Carlos Barbosa. After a morning connecting several types of raster device for diagnosis, he concluded that, in my case, there is a failure in the communication between the brake and the dashboard, as the dashboard shows (BRAKE LIGHT FAILURE) but the brake lights are all working. Then he will have to check the entire wiring harness to see where the likely broken wire is. HOWEVER, before doing this he asked me to remove and check the panel again, to ensure that the fault was not in the repaired welds. I will do all of this at the beginning of next month. 
@@caveira8703 thanks for your feedback ! In my case , I just erased the default codes and managed to turn on my car. However I don’t get the RPMs and few stuff doesn’t work anymore… I will bring it to a professional to review the electronics soldering etc.
If you are referring to the drops I put into unstick the board, it Was Isopropyl Alcohol. Please do like and subscribe as this is a small channel trying to grow and cant do that without subscribers. 😀👍
@@TELsBENCH thank you very much, I’m currently experiencing the same problem, I have to give it a whack on the dashboard for the error message to disappear, the performance and driving of the car has not changed in any way except for the sporadic messages on the dashboard, your video might just save my life, I’ll give it a go this coming weekend! Thank you
Great, I wish you good luck and hope you solve the issue, when you have removed the two torque screws under the cluster of instruments, then get your fingers above the black cluster shroud and pull it down a bit and it should just come out ok. The cable connector has a latch on it , so just flip that over to release it.
For the two screws at the base of the cluster in the care, you will need a TORQUE T25 Bit. This can be found in any motor tool outlet or online. For me I used a inexpensive multi tool set which I use for general repairs which has an extension from the ratchet of about 6 inches and also an additional flexible extension which can bend and then the T25 on top of that to easily reach through the Steering Wheel or the the side of it and into the two screws. For taking the Cluster apart, just flat blade screwdrivers really, its a bit fiddly really for some parts, you will need a soldering iron with a reasonably fine tip and some solder and some alcohol to clean the board after soldering if that is what is wrong with your cluster. Thanks for watching, I hope this helps you.
I will get it done later this week :) thank you I will update you with more, is it possible car does not start because of this? I mean i charged the battery full and everything is on but engine wont rev I after first try battery is drained to 10 % could be the starter also?@@TELsBENCH
I cannot answer that question on your repair as I dont provide advice in general only on my video. What I do know its that failures caused by this particular issue illustrated in the video can cause actual physical effects on the way the engine runs, in my case it reduced the ability to accelerate normally and also the speedo dropped out completely at one point momentarily. When my partner was driving it I was told that on one occasion she was unable to start it. As for draining the battery, I dont know but if the starter motor was jammed with power applied, that may drain the battery. Or perhaps the battery is failing as well. I wish you the very best of luck in your repair.
Wow, thats great 😃. If you are not already a subscriber, feel free to subscribe as this is a tiny channel, and any help is appreciated. - Thanks and safe motoring. 👍
Ive done this repair tonight on the wife's 58 plate convertible. It works. :)
Many thanks, this was more of a problem with the earlier mk2 focus when they used lead free solder which tends to crack with different temperatures the later version face lifted from 08 mk2.5 it didn't seem as common but I've known it to happen 😊
I've heard that comment before and although I cannot prove or disprove that theory, I spend much of my life as an electronic engineer and we used to lab tests which included environment effects where extreme shifts took place between low and normal temperatue ranges and also extreme shifts between the two for example -30 to + 50 but not rapid changes as they dont usually occur naturally it takes time for the vehicle to warm up from freezing conditions.
It was rare to get joint failures on good quality lead free solder unless you mix the two in the same joint as the expansion contraction varies between the two materials.
In terms of the Focus MK2 03-10 at least in my model, the culprit is more likely to be the cable that thing is not supported properly it just hangs in space, although the connector has a retainer on it, the jolts which come from speed bumps etc, or just steeering corners, are probably enough over time to cause the cracks. The evidence on this is kinda supported by the fact that the cracks only appeared on the connector ends, not in the middle.
Thats my theory anyway - Hope you liked the video, and if you are not s subscriber, please feel free to subscribe as I need all the support I can get😉
Just had mine done from a mobile mechanic that done it at my doorstep for £150... It only took about 45 mins...
My vehicle is the mk2.5 2008 focus btw...
OK, good for you, glad it worked out for you. If you dont have the tools to do it yourself, or are not confident you can do it yourself, thats a good option. If you book it into a garage for a replacement ecu/panel then it can cost up to £1k. So well done.
Brilliant video I will be doing this on the weekend 👍
Hey @xoxRAVERxox1, thanks for the compliment on the vid. It's a really annoying problem isn't it. Good luck on the weekend. - Cheers TEL 👍
When I go over a particularly bumpy bit of road, I get a warning chime and the central "i" light flashes. It doesn't happen all the time, but when it does it is unnerving. It seems to me that some wiring is loose, cracked or faulty in some way. I'm worried it might short out the whole system.
Trying to explain this fault to my mechanic is proving frustrating. Any advice would be hugely appreciated.
(Ford Focus 2008 MK2. Instrument panel looks exactly the same.)
This sounds like it could very well be the same issue as is explained in my video. But , in order to discover that you would need to take out the unit which is quite simple and then take a close look under a stong light possibly with a magnifier glass or a microscope unless your eyes are like Superman 😄and take a close look. And if needed reflow the solder. This is a very common failure on these models.
Anyway, if it helps you please consider subscribing as the channel is tiny and needs all the help it can get. Let us know how you get on. BTW, you will need a T24 Torque bit to take out the two screws at the base of theinstrument panel before pulling it out, then release the cable at the back which has a wire retainer clip on it.
Cheers - Tel
@@TELsBENCH Thank you so much, Tel, sounds like very sensible advice. I couldn't attempt this myself, but it's given me something to go on.
Hello! I'm from Brazil, this week I dismantled the panel of my 2009 Focus Duratec MK2.5, I took it to a technician who redid all the welds on the panel plate. I also cleaned several connectors, however, now the message "Engine fault" is appearing on the panel. I will ask the mechanic to run the scanner to detect where the problem is, as the vehicle is working perfectly.
Hi Caveira,
Although its true to say that the connector is the most common problem on the Cluster Panel, it does not exclude the possibility of either real faults on the engine or other faults on the ECU.
So what you did was a good first measure, they will be able to plug in the diagnostics and reveal the problem. It could well be something simple like a defective sensor, or a blockage that needs cleaning or something like that.
How is the weather in Brazil ?, are you in Sao Paulo ? - Good luck with the car and let us know how it goes. Cheers Tel
@@TELsBENCH Hello! What is worrying is that the problem could even be a broken wire among all the hundreds of wires in the wiring. But I'm going to start solving the problem with the Scaner's computerized diagnosis. And as soon as I have a result, I will post it here again in this video. I live in the extreme south of Brazil, State of Rio Grande do Sul, city of Carlos Barbosa, the city is small but very beautiful and economically prosperous. Big hug!
I have the same error as you now, maybe I damaged something during the soldering. I have the error codes u0140 and u0155. Any news on you side in Brazil ?
@@srvjean Hello friend! Well, let's go in parts. I went to a specialist in automotive diagnostics and vehicle modules here in the City of Carlos Barbosa. After a morning connecting several types of raster device for diagnosis, he concluded that, in my case, there is a failure in the communication between the brake and the dashboard, as the dashboard shows (BRAKE LIGHT FAILURE) but the brake lights are all working. Then he will have to check the entire wiring harness to see where the likely broken wire is. HOWEVER, before doing this he asked me to remove and check the panel again, to ensure that the fault was not in the repaired welds. I will do all of this at the beginning of next month.

@@caveira8703 thanks for your feedback ! In my case , I just erased the default codes and managed to turn on my car. However I don’t get the RPMs and few stuff doesn’t work anymore… I will bring it to a professional to review the electronics soldering etc.
Cheers for the info.
Glad you found it useful, feel free to subscribe if you are not already, as every subscriber, Like etc helps.
Good day, what liquid were you using ?
If you are referring to the drops I put into unstick the board, it Was Isopropyl Alcohol.
Please do like and subscribe as this is a small channel trying to grow and cant do that without subscribers.
😀👍
@@TELsBENCH thank you very much, I’m currently experiencing the same problem, I have to give it a whack on the dashboard for the error message to disappear, the performance and driving of the car has not changed in any way except for the sporadic messages on the dashboard, your video might just save my life, I’ll give it a go this coming weekend! Thank you
Great, I wish you good luck and hope you solve the issue, when you have removed the two torque screws under the cluster of instruments, then get your fingers above the black cluster shroud and pull it down a bit and it should just come out ok.
The cable connector has a latch on it , so just flip that over to release it.
Many thanks, very usefull.
Thanks D. I appreciate the comment, dont forget to like and subscribe as it all helps the cause :)
Cheers
Fantastic
Thank you so much 😀
Which tools do you recommend
For the two screws at the base of the cluster in the care, you will need a TORQUE T25 Bit. This can be found in any motor tool outlet or online. For me I used a inexpensive multi tool set which I use for general repairs which has an extension from the ratchet of about 6 inches and also an additional flexible extension which can bend and then the T25 on top of that to easily reach through the Steering Wheel or the the side of it and into the two screws.
For taking the Cluster apart, just flat blade screwdrivers really, its a bit fiddly really for some parts, you will need a soldering iron with a reasonably fine tip and some solder and some alcohol to clean the board after soldering if that is what is wrong with your cluster.
Thanks for watching, I hope this helps you.
I will get it done later this week :) thank you I will update you with more, is it possible car does not start because of this? I mean i charged the battery full and everything is on but engine wont rev I after first try battery is drained to 10 % could be the starter also?@@TELsBENCH
I cannot answer that question on your repair as I dont provide advice in general only on my video.
What I do know its that failures caused by this particular issue illustrated in the video can cause actual physical effects on the way the engine runs, in my case it reduced the ability to accelerate normally and also the speedo dropped out completely at one point momentarily. When my partner was driving it I was told that on one occasion she was unable to start it.
As for draining the battery, I dont know but if the starter motor was jammed with power applied, that may drain the battery. Or perhaps the battery is failing as well.
I wish you the very best of luck in your repair.
Ive done this repair tonight on the wife's 58 plate convertible. It works. :)
Wow, thats great 😃. If you are not already a subscriber, feel free to subscribe as this is a tiny channel, and any help is appreciated. - Thanks and safe motoring. 👍