Here we talk about placing screws and some of the nuances of it. #iceclimbing #learntoiceclimb #climbing for ice climbing instruction go here: www.pisgahclim...
Did my first real lead on WI3 in Ouray last week, felt calm and relaxed entire time. placing screws with right hand no problem.... left handed..... total soup sammich...
Imho you ARE getting differences in axial pull-out-strength depending on the depth of the equally long threaded sections of the presented ice screws, If the mode of failure is not the shearing-off of the ice-threads but the breaking out of a cone of ice around the crew. If we are talking about loading the screw perpendicular to its axis, the length & position of the threaded section are not as important as the overall length of the screw, that affects the lever arm length & the distribution of applied force. Having said that, I also mostly use 13 cm screws. The reason beeing their SUFFICENT holding forces that have been shown in the field, their weight & rackability.
I would agree to a point. Basically the longer the screw the more breaking of the ice before complete failure. I just think the small difference in length that we have available doesn’t spread enough force over time before we see that failure.
They work fine! Just like any device, with wet and icy ropes you may need to add some friction. I use the Petzl Frieno carabiner to help with this. I’d say when it gets really bad the most reliable method in the Munter hitch.
Hi there, Thanks for your wonderful technical knowledge. But what I need to know about and what I observed are your gloves. Those are so compact, Hi, I am Rohan from India. I go to Himalaya every year and each time I struggle with my gloves which never help with the technical work what we do like holding and using an ice axe, some kind of rope work, clipping n unclipping carabiners, zoomar handling and also to deal with the cold temperature with goes from sub 0 to -10 around at 6800 mtrs. the reason is I have very thick and fatty gloves. some times it is very difficult to reattach the crampons when they come off with the thick gloves. please can you help with the model names you are using for mountaineering and ice climbing? Or you can send the link where I can get it online. I'll be very grateful if you recommend a pair of gloves. Thank you.
I got rid of all my Petzl aluminum screws because of the binding. The new Blue Ice steel screws weigh less than the Petzl aluminum screws and don't bind.
Did my first real lead on WI3 in Ouray last week, felt calm and relaxed entire time. placing screws with right hand no problem.... left handed..... total soup sammich...
That opposite hand can be hard to operate!
this is great! Awesome to hear all the little details explained out. lets get chilly!!
Oh yea!
Great instruction video tips, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Imho you ARE getting differences in axial pull-out-strength depending on the depth of the equally long threaded sections of the presented ice screws, If the mode of failure is not the shearing-off of the ice-threads but the breaking out of a cone of ice around the crew.
If we are talking about loading the screw perpendicular to its axis, the length & position of the threaded section are not as important as the overall length of the screw, that affects the lever arm length & the distribution of applied force.
Having said that, I also mostly use 13 cm screws. The reason beeing their SUFFICENT holding forces that have been shown in the field, their weight & rackability.
I would agree to a point. Basically the longer the screw the more breaking of the ice before complete failure. I just think the small difference in length that we have available doesn’t spread enough force over time before we see that failure.
Great content as always!
Helpful as always…haven’t been as intentional with screw angle as I should be
Horizontal is fine as well. There are some tests that say in bad ice horizontal may be best.
such great content again!
Thx!
Excellent video. I noticed a Grigri on your harness. What are your thoughts on the use of those in an alpine/ice environment?
They work fine! Just like any device, with wet and icy ropes you may need to add some friction.
I use the Petzl Frieno carabiner to help with this.
I’d say when it gets really bad the most reliable method in the Munter hitch.
@@howtoclimb Thank you for your reply and the information.
Hi there, Thanks for your wonderful technical knowledge. But what I need to know about and what I observed are your gloves. Those are so compact, Hi, I am Rohan from India. I go to Himalaya every year and each time I struggle with my gloves which never help with the technical work what we do like holding and using an ice axe, some kind of rope work, clipping n unclipping carabiners, zoomar handling and also to deal with the cold temperature with goes from sub 0 to -10 around at 6800 mtrs. the reason is I have very thick and fatty gloves. some times it is very difficult to reattach the crampons when they come off with the thick gloves. please can you help with the model names you are using for mountaineering and ice climbing? Or you can send the link where I can get it online. I'll be very grateful if you recommend a pair of gloves. Thank you.
They are the Black Diamond Tourque gloves. They are great!
@@howtoclimb thanks a lot
Awesome video, how do you like the G-tech boots btw?
So far they have been awesome! Quite warm for how light they are!!!
Great tips.
When people talk about aluminum screws binding, what do they mean?
Which glasses are those they look sick!
It’s because the screw forms ice (mostly on the inside) when it touches water on the ice. So this makes it feel sticky or bind.
Oh and the glasses are Julbo! I think those are the fury model!
I got rid of all my Petzl aluminum screws because of the binding. The new Blue Ice steel screws weigh less than the Petzl aluminum screws and don't bind.
You don’t have permits to guide in Montana!
Right! Which is why we were not guiding!
Or ski!
Skiing is definitely fun!!