Actually its a good video, well done. By the way, for those with the Dodge Ram 2500s, the quickest way to tell a Dana 44 from a Dana 60 front diff is the hex size of the front cover: Dana 44" is a 1/2" hex bolt, the Dana 60 is a 9/16" hex bolt. Also, for those that are curious about the death wobble syndrome, we are using Hellbent racing steering box sector shaft stabilizer kit, and also weld-boxing the control arms, with energy higher duromoter bushings. Also purchase the best track bar you can afford, like a moog problem solver, or if you are lifted, an adjustable track bar. Lastly, do not use any ball joint except Moog Problem solver. The rest are junk. These front ends can suck up thousands of dollars of excess cash, so plan well from the beginning. Just our 2 cents worth here. Thanks
I found that if I tried to keep rod centred I had trouble I let it kinda wander within reason and boom! done . Thanks! O I used a big washer instead of channel Update seal failed and 3D printed driver failed. Got one machined out of steel gonna try again soon. Ok steel one worked (I think) had to use a square tube instead of the washer, washer couldnt take it. Let you know in a day or so. Great video!!
Great video, sure appreciate the work you have done to get us through this pain of a task. I finished the job in about 10 hours changing the front left and right seals of a 1998 2500 with a DANA 60F diff. Removed the ring gear without a case spreader and used a socket from my tool box to drive in the left seal and an Oreilley's rental seal driver kit, ready rod and a piece of PVC tube called a 1.5" Terminal Adapter costing $1.99 that I found wandering Ace Hardware to crank in the right seal. The right seal was a do over with success on the second attempt. I did it on my driveway and am very happy to have an extra grand in my pocket to play with. Thanks again!
I made a seal installer from a 1/2" sheave center I picked up at a supply store, the inside shoulder is 1 1/2" diameter which holds the seal. I also used a piece of 2" muffler pipe about a 1/2" long. The outside of the sheave had to be ground down to fit in the tube and the piece of muffler pushes the seal into place using a 1/2" length of redi rod. The sheave cost $7.99, the piece of scrap muffler pipe was free from the local muffler shop. Worked very well. Axle was a Dana 60 (not a 44).
Thanks for the video. I changed my right front seal today and couldn't have done it without watching this first. I used a seal driver with a length of ready rod and it did set the seal in place. Thanks again.
@briansmobile1 Hi, Brian. Thanks for your comment! The company is 4X4 Tech Inc, and I found them to be friendly and helpful, based out of Montana. It took about 2 weeks for the driver to arrive by regular mail here in Alberta, but I am sure they are faster inside the USA border or for special orders.
If you don't have the special seal tool, you can use a shallow 2 or 2 1/8 inch hole saw (about 1" deep) and grind the teeth flat. it is the perfect size to install the seal using the same basic method with the threaded rod and it is much cheaper.
great videos and explanation. Another thing to do is not overfill the differential. this is cause of >90% of "leaking seals". As you found, your one seal was in good shape. Too many fill differential up to level of fill hole. Should be about 3/4" below. Many seals done unnecessarily. Still, great write up, thanks. Need to do a R&P replacement and will freshen seals while in.
Great video! If possible it would be a good idea to put a link in the description of where you bought the seal driver. I just finished filming the posi-lock kit install video that replaces that vacuum pod. Again great video!
Tip from one who had to deal with this same seal problem . Use the old seal turned back to back to the new seal with a washer and nut with alltread just as you did on the inside. The old seal fits perfectly on the back of the new one , for cheap just a stick of alltread and your old seal . 7.00$ old school . I do like your special seal puller though . It looks like it works well .
@4g63junkie Yeah, It's pretty simple. The CAD is vacuum driven, and when actuated it pushes the fork, which slides that nut over to mesh with the splines of both the intermediate axle and the wheel axle at the same time. When disengaged it only rides on one axle, and the other axle spins independently. The principle is very similar to that of the Chev, that I showed in a different video. Thanks for your comment.
That tool is a great idea. I have something similar, homemade. I use a cup one one end, fits inside the seal, pulls on the metal part, long rod with a nut, but I use a slide hammer on the other end, but its a 2 person job. But with your set up, definitely a one person job.
You make a good point, and if I ever have to do it again I'll do it dry. The first two times I installed the seal on that side I did it dry. But this time, out of frustration, I put a thin film of Permatex on the outside surface, since I wondered if fluid leaked around the outside of the seal. Of course there is no Permatex on the inside. It worked, and I doubt I'll ever have to do that side again. But if I do, it will be more work to clean the old gasket off. Thanks for your contribution.
@gravity006 That is an interesting idea. However remember that the intermediate shaft would have to be reinstalled after the seal is in place, and it doesn't slide in very well, possibly dislodging the seal as it is put in. Also, the big problem is the unfriendly shape of the seal, with the soft rubber parts vulnerable to damage. The best way to install the right seal is the way I've done it here.... Thanks for your creative and thoughtful contribution.
I tapped in the passenger side seal of my 1997 RAM 1500 using a 4 foot long 3/4" pipe with a cap on the hammering end and a coupler on the impact end that I put on once the pipe was already inserted from the driver's side. I wrapped the pipe with Teflon tape to protect the roller bearing that is just inside of the 4WD activator. I used a 2 1/8 " hole saw with the teeth ground off and smoothed to place on the seal to drive it in. Rather painless. It did take 2 of us to do this.... one at each end.
I'll do it if I can find it (moved recently). Note that the size of the driver is reflected in the size of the seal, and you can buy a seal at any autostore. The national seal that I bought locally was a different size than the OEM seal, and so if you are designing a driver to fit your seal then you need to machine it to the brand of seal you're using. Also, you want it to fit your exact vehicle. I gave you a pretty good view of the driver in the video. Well designed.
You're welcome -- there's just one seal on each side, but they are not easy to get to. Also take note of the suggestion made by Andy Harter, below, for a DIY alternative to a custom seal driver. Sounds like a good idea!
I got the seal wrench from quad 4X4, search their name with Google. Don't forget to read all the comments on this thread for other options. Regarding the front axle, that sounds like a transfer case problem to me, maybe a problem with the encoder motor. I don't consider myself an expert in that area, but encoder motor problems can be electrical, mechanical, or malfunction of the encoder motor itself.
The main reason for a dedicated specialty tool on the right is the limited access, preventing you from just tapping it in with a socket and a hammer. On the left, you need to remove the diff, so you have lots of room after that is done. I did a video of how to do the left and I showed how easy it is to just tap it in with a socket and small hammer -- check my video. Just remember that to get at the left, you need to remove the right, because the diff won't come out until the right axle is out.
I then had to make something work, but would rather have the right tool. I made 2 pieces 0ut of 3inch wide × 3/16 or 1/4 inch thick using a 2-5/8 hole saw for the one piece to pull on the back of seal. The other one the. Can't remember, but it just fits the axel tube on rt side. Basically the smaller one fits in the axel RT tube which I used for the axel tube side of the inner seal snugging them together hand tight with the Seal imbetween them just enough so the seal doesn't get pulled in crooked. Has worked for me.
Very nice. Just found your video since i hsve s leaking front right seal. I am impressed with your work snd the presentation of the vudeo. I still don't know if i can do the repair although you provided all the needed details to be successful. Thank you and be well
I found kits for sale just by using Google. The seal driver that I eventually bought came from a company called quad4X4. They were good. But if I were to do this again I would probably try to save the cash (nearly $100) and make my own. Andy Harter in the comments below suggested using a circular hole saw, which sounds to me like a good idea, though I've never tried it. He ground the teeth off, choosing a size that just fits inside the seal so pressure is on the strong inside metal flange.
It's OK to watch for a week or two if leak is small and you keep an eye on the level. There is a chance it is just fluid in the tube which will settle. But, more likely you will be doing the seal. Good luck!
This really isnt a bad "junk yard joe" way of installing axle seals but people plz do not apply permatex to the axle seal. ANY seal that is coated with an orange,blue or any color coating is a dry install seal.
take the old drivers side seal and use it as a press with threaded rod works perfect take sping out of new pasenger side seal and reinstall it after press proceder
I love to meet people who think with creative flare, and so it's great to meet you. In this case I'm not sure it would work, since the edge of the seal is so narrow that it wouldn't have enough contact surface area to match up and bear the pressure needed to pull it in. The seal is designed to be squeezed radially inward, so the old seal will have a slightly smaller radius than the new seal. You might try using the hole saw drill bit trick, described in the comments....
Yes, the 2500 is significantly different. As I recall, somebody said that you do need to remove the big axle nut on that one. You will want to get hold of a dealers manual before tackling it. Yes, I do believe a bad U-joint is the most common cause of this. Those U-joints commonly go bad, I've replaced both sides -- I should have recorded that effort but I didn't. Usually you get a clicking sound with each turn of the tire, when you steer to one side.
Search quad4X4 for a professionally made seal driver. But read through all the comments on both videos -- you might be able to make your own and save over $100 by using a 2-21/4" hole saw, grinding down the teeth, and using threaded rod to pull it into place.
I want to try and make a seal driver tool now. The fitted round press tool you paid so much for should maybe be mad from JB welding various diameter washers on top of one another to achieve the same specs as the expensive piece. I may give it a try to see what I can come up with. Thanks for the videos
I made a press circular special tool out of a Hole Saw and put some plastic circles in side it to replicate the tool that you buy. Im anxious to see how it works!
+spelunkerd wish I could put a picture on here. It holds the seal perfectly straight. If it works, I'll do a write up on dodgeforum additional to yours with some pics.
I just reviewed your channel. You do some serious off-roading! I can't say my truck has seen so much mud, but I'm sure it wants to. Nice to meet you, and thanks for your contribution.
I used 5/8" NC threaded rod, which is readily available. You need two seals, one for each side.But, if you replace the right one first, and then the left fails, you have a problem. In that case you may find yourself having to replace the right a second time, in which case you would need three. Hopefully the left fails first so you only need two. It's so much extra work to do the left that I wouldn't replace it as a preventative effort when doing the right.
Thanks for posting this video , nice Job,,,I may have to replace my seal, I just changed my u joint ,rite side, but now theres a small leak from the axle area ...
Hi, Chuck. Mine is leaking at the front seal between the trans and the case, and I'm planning to pull it off to have a look. Probably needs two seals, hopefully that's all. The case itself seems to be OK. I did do a transfer case job on a suburban, though I asked a pro to do the technical part. If you are interested in how the suburban case came on and off you can find it on my channel. It is quite a bit of work just to take it on and off, with some heavy lifting in awkward positions. Good luck!
Thanks ill buy this tool. Cause Saving a dollar ain't worth the frustration and time. When u figure time into it it's worth having the tool thanks for your help
+precinct 1 baltimore county residents Yes, if the shaft dislodges the seal when you reinsert the shaft, the seal hasn't been adequately seated first. The right tool makes this go very easily, but I certainly understand the motivation to make your own seal driver. Many guys in this comment thread have said that a hole saw can be ground down to make a good seal driver, although you have to factor in your effort and time, as well.
(continued) So, to answer your question (grin), I think they are different size, but it doesn't matter because you don't need a special tool to do the left. Such tools are sold and you could buy one, but I wouldn't bother.
I see now why quad 4x4 uses grade 8 hardware . One of my zinc coated 1/2" nut got jammed on the end of the thread rod. Screwed my whole project up. The seal press special tool worked alright, but then I got stuck dealing with that nut.
+HARLEY D It's good to have remarks like yours here in the thread, thanks for posting. Makes people realize that any job has potential for complication. I also noticed that their custom design has fine-thread rod, in contrast with the coarse thread found on typical rod off the shelf. Fine thread would definitely give more leverage to translate rotational torque into axial pressure on the seal. I just found their prices to be too high for amateur use, especially if you buy the rod as well.
+spelunkerd I was happy to see my homemade press tool working and then that happened with the rod and turned my 1 1/2 hour job turn into an all evening absolute cursing marathon . That nut jammed and I bent my press tool all to hell trying to get the nut off the rod that was on the CAD side of the seal. I think my seal is good though, I hope at least .
SO AFTER removing old seal now , another issue arises where the corrosion or such lies on the area of where the seal sits and now stuck there trying to squeeze a seal into a rusty zone out of the nice bored area inside of the shaft exactly where the seal sits as if some material was used in the installation of sealent around the seal itself..or from contamination from the outside.. either way now its trying to pull a brand new seal that is now covered in SEALANT gasket maker crud. through rusty/corroded looking sealant ZONE WHICH > WHICH is about 3/8ths WIDE covered in corrorsion
there seems to be corrosion that all the brake cleaner in the world wouldn't remove in my case... what now.. dremel with a wire brush... wouldn't that ruin the nice machined inside casting of the area where the seal needs to be seated.. this method you applied permatex on the seal prior to putting it in the housing..now if I do apply some type of sealant as that would that not make my seal housing worse over time as product keeps gunking up around the seal housing zone..
I would just clean it as best you can, use ample sealant, and hope you get a good seating. This has to be the most difficult seal I've ever encountered, mainly because there is no easy surface on the seal to pull against. DIY attempts to make your own seal driver can fail if you are applying pressure to the wrong part of the seal. Good luck!
Doing this again at my shop due to failure on round one. Thanks for the vid. This helped me to see the depth desired. THANKS!!! Can I borrow your custom seal driver??? LOL
Google search dodge axle seal installer and various options will pop up. The custom seal is the most expensive and best option. I got mine at quad4X4 but I'm sure there are others.
I've never done a 2500, but I believe the large castle nut on that model may need to be removed. Sounds like a bit more work. If you make a video, let me know and I'll have a look. Good luck.
No, the diff can stay in place for the right side, it's a far easier repair. Just beware that when the right goes, the left may soon go as well. And if the left goes you will have to go back into the right to release the diff!
I noticed, I just couldn't find what the part was specifically called. I've already trashed one seal trying to pull it in to just like you did but with washers
awesome vid..goin to tackle the same seal on my high pinion dana 30 with cad. i welded the diff and run a posiloc cable instead of vaccum setup to engage the axle..a steel fork is goin in too. poor mans selectable locker...kinda.
I replaced the CV put everything together and had a clunking noise. Took it all back apart and noticed what looks like the clutch collar disconnect is just wobbling around and not connected to anything I lined it up as best I could onto intermediate shaft and reassembled still making clunking noise. Noise goes away when 4wd is engaged I'm thoroughly confused
I suppose the forks could be lined up incorrectly. Those forks are meant to slide in the groove of the nut they control, so the nut is held in place by the forks, neither able to slide one way nor the other without active movement of the forks. I would pull the back plate off and make sure the forks are properly aligned in the groove, capturing the nut. I would check to be sure the nut is correctly oriented. The forks are controlled by a pair of black and red vacuum tubes that lead back to the transfer case. I suppose you could have accidentally pulled one of those vacuum actuator connections off. I show more views of this in a few videos, most recently in a video titled "Dodge Ram, Front Brakes and Leaking Gasket Repairs...", about 2 minutes in. The dealers repair manual shows fairly good detail of how it should look.
Thanks for the video, just curious...my collar would not just come out like that. Although I ended up replacing my seal without removing the collar but just curious if you had to do anything else to be able to remove the collar? Thank you
If you're talking about what I called a 'nut' at 5:07, perhaps your vehicle is designed a little differently. In the end it sounds like you made it work even without removing that piece. You can slide the whole intermediate shaft out if need be, it has to be removed to get the differential out.
I hate to be the person to say something won't work, since history is full of people who in retrospect were closed minded. But honestly I doubt that will work. There are tons of people who have gone through all the work to replace that seal only to have it fail right away, and in retrospect they wish they had done it right the first time. Personally I would try that hole saw trick described in the comments, or maybe borrow or buy a seal driver. Good luck, and please let us know how it worked.
WOULD YOU PLEASE TELL ME WHERE YOU BOUGHT THE SEAL WRENCH THAT U USED IN THE VIDEO TO INSTALL THE SEAL AND WOULD YOU BE KIND ENOUGH TO ANSWER A QUESTION BEFORE I TEAR A FRONT END APART? THE DRIVE SHAFT WILL TURN TO THE FRONT AXLE BUT THE FRONT WHEELS WONT PULL, ANY IDEA WHAT MIGHT BE CAUSING THE PROBLEM
Does anyone know how much gear oil that Center Axle Disconnect "window" holds in the area that seal was replaced? I had to replace mine as it started leaking heavily and I cannot find fluid capacity for this anywhere. Thanks for the great video! It was super helpful!
In the smaller axles of this vintage, the fluid is confluent with the diff fluid. If you fill the diff fluid up, gear oil will make its way over to the right axle tube. I put in no more than a hundred cc before bolting on the cover plate so it won't start dry.
I'm guessing that it is very similar. The 98 was a new model year, and that axle has been around for decades. Newest models switched to electric actuators but these old trucks were vacuum actuated.
Thanks for the info , ya I ll keep an eye on it like you said. , I think if I have to change the seal , I ll make one of your seal pullers, seems to work well in your vid, Take care .. Rick
As I read this again, I'm guessing this is actually a real question. The seal driver I used was from Quad4X4, but if I were you I'd read the comment by Daniel Stevens, where he made one himself with a 3D printer. Much cheaper, he included the details needed in that thread.
+precinct 1 baltimore county residents That's a good thought. The biggest problem with this seal is the minimal, thin contact surface which I recall is slightly recessed from the outside surface. It's much more difficult than a normal seal, only because of that. To make matters worse, generic seals are differently shaped which makes fitting even more problematic. If you have found something that fits well and works, I'm sure many others would find your contribution useful.
I used a seal made by Quad4X4, but it was expensive. The discussion thread has many bright options, including the option to make one with a 3D printer. I sent the dimensions to a guy who made a printer file for people to make their own.
Are the balljoints the same on this as the 1990 style dodge dana 44 front axle? If so, Sh^tcan the newer knuckles and sealed bearing assemblies and replace them with the 1990 dodge hub style front end.
Question. When you remove drive shaft. No differential fluid should follow correct? Even if it was not leaking before removing it. I might have moved seal removing hub assembly
Most of the time I don't get any oil draining when removing either of the front outer axles. For the right front axle seal, you'll get about 50 cc of gear oil dripping after you take off the shift housing shown at 4:54, so use a pan for that. It doesn't drain a lot, but if you don't get any fluid out the shift housing plate you should check your oil level in the main diff housing to be sure you're properly filled up. Guys with newer models sometimes add gear oil back in through the sensor port of the shift housing when they are putting it all back together, but I've never done that. My OEM manual doesn't mention it, but newer models may have more of a seal, so check your manual. In my Ram there is no seal separating that cavity from the main front diff, so gear oil will find its way over the the shift housing fairly quickly. If the outer seals fail on either side, you'll get a characteristic oil drip pattern on the inside sidewall of the tire on that side. It leaks especially with a hard turn to the opposite side.
No room. The main glitch I had on this attempt was that the whole shaft turned, unscrewing the nut at the other end, inside the housing. To prevent that from happening I put a second 'locking' nut on the first one inside the housing, which held the shaft still so the outside nut could pull that channel iron in. The shaft that is sold commercially for this use is fine thread, giving more mechanical advantage and smooth control.
It's been years since I did this but I used Quad4X4, as outlined in the comments thread. They are more expensive than I wanted but they worked on the OEM seal, only. You may find better more cost effective options now, google is your friend.
The coupling that connects the inner and outer axels keeps sliding off and in the process eliminating the right side from the differential? Please help. I put the coupling back how it came out and it fits into the holder on the lid of the housing
Something must be wrong with the way it went back together, the controller should actively control how that coupling moves by movement of the fork that slides it on and off. I would be checking functionality of the mechanism that does that. Some of those are vacuum activated, so a vacuum leak might be an issue with that design. In a system designed with electrical activation, you should be able to work out whether it is working. I'm sorry, I'm not able to help other than that. If in doubt, check the OEM repair manual for more detail as to how yours is designed to work.
Their website is quad4X4.com. If you get one of those custom seals you need to order an OEM seal, because the fit with generic seals is not exact. I had an old National seal and that one doesn't fit very well.
The driver I used was made by Quad4X4, you can google that name. Other competitors may be more cost effective, or you could try the hole saw idea that some readers describe in the comments. The latter option seems like a reasonable plan if you are willing to try to make your own.
what is the deal with the intermediate shaft in the CAD ? my nose is worn to a point from driving with a bad ujoint. the execess end play wore out the actuator fork and the intermediate axle nose. So can I pull the intermediate axle out and replace with out going in the jack pot? this whole job is costing big money just for the parts.i buy good parts when digging deep as to not have to redo from part failure. I cant find any exploded view diagrams of this. also is a the nose replaceable? all the pics of intermediate axles don't show a nose. im guessing the axle I just put the ujoint on will have to be replaced too.
+precinct 1 baltimore county residents I use Alldatadiy, which is about $45 for a 5 year subscription. It's very similar to what the dealer uses, and it will have exploded parts diagrams with torque ratings, TSB's, etc. You may find parts like the intermediate axle at a junk yard, I'm not sure how much those go for in the aftermarket. Yeah, I replaced both U joints, and the truck requires maintenance. However I'll be sad to see my Dodge go -- it was a fun vehicle to work on. There is loads of room to work, and parts are usually fairly cheap, compared to newer vehicles.
What is the part# for that seal tool . i bought some off ebay and they were wrong after giving my vin# and other information.and spending close 2 300$ and can't return . so if you have a part # that would be appreciated. Thanks mike.
I found an aftermarket option on the net, Quad4X4 was the company, more details in the discussion thread. It was expensive, and you need to use the OEM seal because it is a custom fit. A better idea is to take it to a store that can 3D print a seal driver for you. The plans are in the discussion thread, too, and there is a link to the exact details needed for 3D printing. Alternatively you could use a hole saw and fabricate something yourself. I tried that, and failed, but others were more successful. Good luck!
@@spelunkerd that's what I did I use the tune 5/8 hole saw for the back part of the seal and then I had to take about 1/8 in off of that to get the exact back size of the seal but then I also made one for the front of the seal I think it was 2 1/8 or 2 and 1/4 inch with a hole saw and that one fit inside the axle tube which was used to hold the front of the seal while the other one I made which was 215 Ace that I took about an eighth inch off that one was used for the back of the seal to kind of sandwich the seal between the two brackets not to the extent that it damage is Seal but just enough to hold it in place to pull through the front of the axle tube to get it to seat which it worked but I just wanted to get the actual one so that next time if I need it I don't have to use the ones I made but the ones I made worked if it's just I had to kind of watch it as I was tightening it and then I had to check it to make sure it was seeing right as soon as I started tightening it, it's kind of like if you've ever used those self collapsing rivets the new Dodge Rams have collapsible thread inserts that are used on the underside of The Rocker to hold the step plates so it's kind of like that where when when you when you're squeezing the threaded insert and as soon as you feel it give way that means that you have to stop and check it to make sure you don't over tighten it but it's just enough that you know the seal went in straight which is how I did it yesterday but I had to stop and check it as I was tightening it to make sure that I didn't go too far so far it's not leaking but I haven't refilled it yet to see if it's going to leak but I know because I took pictures of the seal I know that it seated right. I just want to get the axle seal tool so I don't have to use the ones I made not the ones I made don't work but when you have the exact tool you don't have to fight with it to check to make sure that it's eating right when you make your own stuff like I did you have to take your time with it to make sure that it works this is the second time as is with you having to do it a second time the first time I did it the seal one and crook it and that was with the tools that I was told were the right ones that I bought off eBay after giving them my VIN number and everything and they said they were the right ones yet they pulled the seal in crooked. So then I had to make those medallions or discs if you want to call him that out of quarter inch plate steel I think it was a piece of 3 in by quarter inch flat stock which then I had to use two different size hole saw pieces to cut them out and then I had to Center the holes on them so when I put it on the threaded Rod that they were centered so that way the seal would go in straight but like I said I centered the seal and I compressed the seal between the two pieces that I made not tight just hand tight I hand tighten the nut on the top of the plate I did just to keep the seal from moving up or down it was just enough pressure to keep the seal from not moving and then once I did that I was able to tighten the seal from the outer part of the axial there by pulling it into the seal place for it to seat. but I am going to review that site you recommended to see if I can find that seal piece or find somebody who has it I just didn't know if you had a was there a part number on your peace. anyways thanks for your time I'm going to review that site for the part and maybe see if somebody has one . I would venture to say that the split axle was not one of dodges fire moments. which brings another question which is that if Dodge knew they were selling these trucks like the tools are needed it's not like it's a aftermarket piece you know it's a factory piece that is still rolling around the streets of the United States and they just discontinued making the tool needed to fix that which is messed up. anyways thanks again if I have any more questions I hope you wouldn't mind if I would send them to you. thanks Mike. also be safe out there with this covid stuff going around .
@@michaelgonzalez6692 With increasing use of plastic and microelectronics, we're going to see a lot more problems with discontinued parts in the coming decade, especially when manufacturers completely retool for electric cars. Fortunately this one has the work around of 3d printing, if needed. I pinned the discussion of 3d printing so people can find it more easily. Cheers, Dave
That's always a difficult question, since the first time takes a lot longer than the second time. Alldata list repair of the right front axle seal as 1.4 hours of shop time, and 5.2 hours of shop time for the left. The reason the left is longer is because you need to remove the right to get at the left. If I had to do the right again, I could do it in under 2 hours. But the first time it took me easily 4 hours, and you note I had to do it again a year later (two hours second time).
It depends on whether you are going to use an OEM seal or an aftermarket seal. The seal made by them only fits the former, there is quite a difference. If I had a lathe, I would get the actual seal I would be using, and design he driver around that. I'll see if I can find the one I have again, we've moved and it might be lost. If I can find it I will give you some rough dimensions.
Actually its a good video, well done. By the way, for those with the Dodge Ram 2500s, the quickest way to tell a Dana 44 from a Dana 60 front diff is the hex size of the front cover: Dana 44" is a 1/2" hex bolt, the Dana 60 is a 9/16" hex bolt. Also, for those that are curious about the death wobble syndrome, we are using Hellbent racing steering box sector shaft stabilizer kit, and also weld-boxing the control arms, with energy higher duromoter bushings. Also purchase the best track bar you can afford, like a moog problem solver, or if you are lifted, an adjustable track bar. Lastly, do not use any ball joint except Moog Problem solver. The rest are junk. These front ends can suck up thousands of dollars of excess cash, so plan well from the beginning. Just our 2 cents worth here. Thanks
I know this was posted 6yrs ago, but I'll try anyway lol. do you know if the 1500 4x4 came with the dana 44 as well
@@isaakteichroeb1175 the underhood sticker on my 1997 1500 4x4 says front “Dana 4”. Rear “Chrysler 9.25”
@herbb8412 awesome good to know really appreciate your replie
Thanks for the information, your video was spot on , it helped me with the process of seal installation. I got educated.
I found that if I tried to keep rod centred I had trouble I let it kinda wander within reason and boom! done . Thanks! O I used a big washer instead of channel Update seal failed and 3D printed driver failed. Got one machined out of steel gonna try again soon. Ok steel one worked (I think) had to use a square tube instead of the washer, washer couldnt take it. Let you know in a day or so. Great video!!
Great video, sure appreciate the work you have done to get us through this pain of a task. I finished the job in about 10 hours changing the front left and right seals of a 1998 2500 with a DANA 60F diff. Removed the ring gear without a case spreader and used a socket from my tool box to drive in the left seal and an Oreilley's rental seal driver kit, ready rod and a piece of PVC tube called a 1.5" Terminal Adapter costing $1.99 that I found wandering Ace Hardware to crank in the right seal. The right seal was a do over with success on the second attempt. I did it on my driveway and am very happy to have an extra grand in my pocket to play with. Thanks again!
I made a seal installer from a 1/2" sheave center I picked up at a supply store, the inside shoulder is 1 1/2" diameter which holds the seal. I also used a piece of 2" muffler pipe about a 1/2" long. The outside of the sheave had to be ground down to fit in the tube and the piece of muffler pushes the seal into place using a 1/2" length of redi rod. The sheave cost $7.99, the piece of scrap muffler pipe was free from the local muffler shop. Worked very well. Axle was a Dana 60 (not a 44).
I always like it when somebody comes up with good ideas like this. Thanks for posting it here, I'm sure others will appreciate your contribution!
Thanks for the video. I changed my right front seal today and couldn't have done it without watching this first. I used a seal driver with a length of ready rod and it did set the seal in place. Thanks again.
I very much appreciated this! I am about to replace mine
@briansmobile1 Hi, Brian. Thanks for your comment! The company is 4X4 Tech Inc, and I found them to be friendly and helpful, based out of Montana. It took about 2 weeks for the driver to arrive by regular mail here in Alberta, but I am sure they are faster inside the USA border or for special orders.
If you don't have the special seal tool, you can use a shallow 2 or 2 1/8 inch hole saw (about 1" deep) and grind the teeth flat. it is the perfect size to install the seal using the same basic method with the threaded rod and it is much cheaper.
great videos and explanation. Another thing to do is not overfill the differential. this is cause of >90% of "leaking seals". As you found, your one seal was in good shape. Too many fill differential up to level of fill hole. Should be about 3/4" below. Many seals done unnecessarily. Still, great write up, thanks. Need to do a R&P replacement and will freshen seals while in.
Great video! If possible it would be a good idea to put a link in the description of where you bought the seal driver. I just finished filming the posi-lock kit install video that replaces that vacuum pod. Again great video!
Tip from one who had to deal with this same seal problem . Use the old seal turned back to back to the new seal with a washer and nut with alltread just as you did on the inside. The old seal fits perfectly on the back of the new one , for cheap just a stick of alltread and your old seal . 7.00$ old school . I do like your special seal puller though . It looks like it works well .
@4g63junkie Yeah, It's pretty simple. The CAD is vacuum driven, and when actuated it pushes the fork, which slides that nut over to mesh with the splines of both the intermediate axle and the wheel axle at the same time. When disengaged it only rides on one axle, and the other axle spins independently. The principle is very similar to that of the Chev, that I showed in a different video. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for the compliment. If you try using a modified circular hole saw rather than the custom tool, please let the rest of us know how it goes.
That tool is a great idea. I have something similar, homemade. I use a cup one one end, fits inside the seal, pulls on the metal part, long rod with a nut, but I use a slide hammer on the other end, but its a 2 person job. But with your set up, definitely a one person job.
I must say, that is a brilliant idea. I need to change mine, and have been dreading it. but u made it look much easier.
You make a good point, and if I ever have to do it again I'll do it dry. The first two times I installed the seal on that side I did it dry. But this time, out of frustration, I put a thin film of Permatex on the outside surface, since I wondered if fluid leaked around the outside of the seal. Of course there is no Permatex on the inside.
It worked, and I doubt I'll ever have to do that side again. But if I do, it will be more work to clean the old gasket off. Thanks for your contribution.
great video you just saved me alot of head ache ,i didnt know there was an inner seal i was just looking for info on the outer seal
@gravity006 That is an interesting idea. However remember that the intermediate shaft would have to be reinstalled after the seal is in place, and it doesn't slide in very well, possibly dislodging the seal as it is put in. Also, the big problem is the unfriendly shape of the seal, with the soft rubber parts vulnerable to damage. The best way to install the right seal is the way I've done it here....
Thanks for your creative and thoughtful contribution.
I tapped in the passenger side seal of my 1997 RAM 1500 using a 4 foot long 3/4" pipe with a cap on the hammering end and a coupler on the impact end that I put on once the pipe was already inserted from the driver's side. I wrapped the pipe with Teflon tape to protect the roller bearing that is just inside of the 4WD activator. I used a 2 1/8 " hole saw with the teeth ground off and smoothed to place on the seal to drive it in. Rather painless. It did take 2 of us to do this.... one at each end.
I'll do it if I can find it (moved recently). Note that the size of the driver is reflected in the size of the seal, and you can buy a seal at any autostore. The national seal that I bought locally was a different size than the OEM seal, and so if you are designing a driver to fit your seal then you need to machine it to the brand of seal you're using. Also, you want it to fit your exact vehicle. I gave you a pretty good view of the driver in the video. Well designed.
You're welcome -- there's just one seal on each side, but they are not easy to get to. Also take note of the suggestion made by Andy Harter, below, for a DIY alternative to a custom seal driver. Sounds like a good idea!
Thank you very much. Your video allowed me to replace my seal on the first try. Couldn't have done it with out you. Thanks again :)
I got the seal wrench from quad 4X4, search their name with Google. Don't forget to read all the comments on this thread for other options. Regarding the front axle, that sounds like a transfer case problem to me, maybe a problem with the encoder motor. I don't consider myself an expert in that area, but encoder motor problems can be electrical, mechanical, or malfunction of the encoder motor itself.
The main reason for a dedicated specialty tool on the right is the limited access, preventing you from just tapping it in with a socket and a hammer. On the left, you need to remove the diff, so you have lots of room after that is done. I did a video of how to do the left and I showed how easy it is to just tap it in with a socket and small hammer -- check my video. Just remember that to get at the left, you need to remove the right, because the diff won't come out until the right axle is out.
The problem is permanently solved, no issues now. I still drive the vehicle daily. Thanks for watching.
I then had to make something work, but would rather have the right tool. I made 2 pieces 0ut of 3inch wide × 3/16 or 1/4 inch thick using a 2-5/8 hole saw for the one piece to pull on the back of seal. The other one the. Can't remember, but it just fits the axel tube on rt side. Basically the smaller one fits in the axel RT tube which I used for the axel tube side of the inner seal snugging them together hand tight with the Seal imbetween them just enough so the seal doesn't get pulled in crooked. Has worked for me.
Great video, really helped out a lot changing the front axle seals on my Dodge. Thanks for making this.
You're welcome, I'm glad it helped.
Very nice. Just found your video since i hsve s leaking front right seal. I am impressed with your work snd the presentation of the vudeo. I still don't know if i can do the repair although you provided all the needed details to be successful. Thank you and be well
I found kits for sale just by using Google. The seal driver that I eventually bought came from a company called quad4X4. They were good. But if I were to do this again I would probably try to save the cash (nearly $100) and make my own. Andy Harter in the comments below suggested using a circular hole saw, which sounds to me like a good idea, though I've never tried it. He ground the teeth off, choosing a size that just fits inside the seal so pressure is on the strong inside metal flange.
It's OK to watch for a week or two if leak is small and you keep an eye on the level. There is a chance it is just fluid in the tube which will settle. But, more likely you will be doing the seal.
Good luck!
This really isnt a bad "junk yard joe" way of installing axle seals but people plz do not apply permatex to the axle seal. ANY seal that is coated with an orange,blue or any color coating is a dry install seal.
take the old drivers side seal and use it as a press with threaded rod works perfect take sping out of new pasenger side seal and reinstall it after press proceder
I just rented a seal driver kit at autozone and bought the all thread😊
Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad it worked out. This is not an easy repair, ha ha.
I love to meet people who think with creative flare, and so it's great to meet you. In this case I'm not sure it would work, since the edge of the seal is so narrow that it wouldn't have enough contact surface area to match up and bear the pressure needed to pull it in. The seal is designed to be squeezed radially inward, so the old seal will have a slightly smaller radius than the new seal. You might try using the hole saw drill bit trick, described in the comments....
Yes, the 2500 is significantly different. As I recall, somebody said that you do need to remove the big axle nut on that one. You will want to get hold of a dealers manual before tackling it.
Yes, I do believe a bad U-joint is the most common cause of this. Those U-joints commonly go bad, I've replaced both sides -- I should have recorded that effort but I didn't. Usually you get a clicking sound with each turn of the tire, when you steer to one side.
You're amazing. I like how you called it, "trucks of that vintage" :)
Search quad4X4 for a professionally made seal driver. But read through all the comments on both videos -- you might be able to make your own and save over $100 by using a 2-21/4" hole saw, grinding down the teeth, and using threaded rod to pull it into place.
That's an excellent point not to overfill. These days, the first thing I do is to check it is not overfilled (at the same time checking the vent).
I want to try and make a seal driver tool now. The fitted round press tool you paid so much for should maybe be mad from JB welding various diameter washers on top of one another to achieve the same specs as the expensive piece. I may give it a try to see what I can come up with. Thanks for the videos
+HARLEY D have a look at the discussion thread, there are lots of good ideas there. I like the idea to use a cylindrical hole saw. Good luck!
+spelunkerd agreed ! There are all sorts of clever ideas !
I made a press circular special tool out of a Hole Saw and put some plastic circles in side it to replicate the tool that you buy. Im anxious to see how it works!
Please stop by after you're done to tell us how it worked out.
+spelunkerd wish I could put a picture on here. It holds the seal perfectly straight. If it works, I'll do a write up on dodgeforum additional to yours with some pics.
This was worth the watch .
I just reviewed your channel. You do some serious off-roading! I can't say my truck has seen so much mud, but I'm sure it wants to. Nice to meet you, and thanks for your contribution.
Thanks. Check out the links and the discussion in this thread for more options.
I used 5/8" NC threaded rod, which is readily available.
You need two seals, one for each side.But, if you replace the right one first, and then the left fails, you have a problem. In that case you may find yourself having to replace the right a second time, in which case you would need three. Hopefully the left fails first so you only need two. It's so much extra work to do the left that I wouldn't replace it as a preventative effort when doing the right.
@GoldenRamMtlmstr And thank you , Kathy. Glad it helped, though I feel the pain of doing it on a different vintage.
Thanks for posting this video , nice Job,,,I may have to replace my seal, I just changed my
u joint ,rite side, but now theres a small leak from the axle area ...
Hi, Chuck. Mine is leaking at the front seal between the trans and the case, and I'm planning to pull it off to have a look. Probably needs two seals, hopefully that's all. The case itself seems to be OK. I did do a transfer case job on a suburban, though I asked a pro to do the technical part. If you are interested in how the suburban case came on and off you can find it on my channel. It is quite a bit of work just to take it on and off, with some heavy lifting in awkward positions. Good luck!
id just like to know where the tool was purchased spelunkerd
Thanks ill buy this tool. Cause Saving a dollar ain't worth the frustration and time. When u figure time into it it's worth having the tool thanks for your help
+precinct 1 baltimore county residents Yes, if the shaft dislodges the seal when you reinsert the shaft, the seal hasn't been adequately seated first. The right tool makes this go very easily, but I certainly understand the motivation to make your own seal driver. Many guys in this comment thread have said that a hole saw can be ground down to make a good seal driver, although you have to factor in your effort and time, as well.
great video very helpful i was wondering how that cad worked and if i ever need axle seals i know how to put them in thanks
Guys you can rent the seal driver plates at oriellys, jus buy the nuts and 17” thread.
Plate on each end followed by nut
Quad4X4. Expensive. Other options? I'm intrigued by the idea one viewer described, using a circular hole saw....
(continued) So, to answer your question (grin), I think they are different size, but it doesn't matter because you don't need a special tool to do the left. Such tools are sold and you could buy one, but I wouldn't bother.
I see now why quad 4x4 uses grade 8 hardware . One of my zinc coated 1/2" nut got jammed on the end of the thread rod. Screwed my whole project up. The seal press special tool worked alright, but then I got stuck dealing with that nut.
+HARLEY D It's good to have remarks like yours here in the thread, thanks for posting. Makes people realize that any job has potential for complication. I also noticed that their custom design has fine-thread rod, in contrast with the coarse thread found on typical rod off the shelf. Fine thread would definitely give more leverage to translate rotational torque into axial pressure on the seal. I just found their prices to be too high for amateur use, especially if you buy the rod as well.
+spelunkerd I was happy to see my homemade press tool working and then that happened with the rod and turned my 1 1/2 hour job turn into an all evening absolute cursing marathon . That nut jammed and I bent my press tool all to hell trying to get the nut off the rod that was on the CAD side of the seal. I think my seal is good though, I hope at least .
Sounds like an interesting plan, good luck! Be sure you can still service the seals and axles after you're done.
quad4X4 -- it's expensive. If you read the comments you will find other options. I like the one where guys modify a 2-21/4" hole saw.
$180 in parts to keep a truck you've paid for OR $65k for a new truck and pay someone else to work on it. i'll buy the tools, thank you.
SO AFTER removing old seal now , another issue arises where the corrosion or such lies on the area of where the seal sits and now stuck there trying to squeeze a seal into a rusty zone out of the nice bored area inside of the shaft exactly where the seal sits as if some material was used in the installation of sealent around the seal itself..or from contamination from the outside.. either way now its trying to pull a brand new seal that is now covered in SEALANT gasket maker crud. through rusty/corroded looking sealant ZONE WHICH > WHICH is about 3/8ths WIDE covered in corrorsion
Yeah, use lots of brake cleaner and swabs to get the rusty crud out before introducing your nice new seal.
there seems to be corrosion that all the brake cleaner in the world wouldn't remove in my case... what now.. dremel with a wire brush... wouldn't that ruin the nice machined inside casting of the area where the seal needs to be seated..
this method you applied permatex on the seal prior to putting it in the housing..now if I do apply some type of sealant as that would that not make my seal housing worse over time as product keeps gunking up around the seal housing zone..
I would just clean it as best you can, use ample sealant, and hope you get a good seating. This has to be the most difficult seal I've ever encountered, mainly because there is no easy surface on the seal to pull against. DIY attempts to make your own seal driver can fail if you are applying pressure to the wrong part of the seal. Good luck!
Doing this again at my shop due to failure on round one. Thanks for the vid. This helped me to see the depth desired. THANKS!!! Can I borrow your custom seal driver??? LOL
Google search dodge axle seal installer and various options will pop up. The custom seal is the most expensive and best option. I got mine at quad4X4 but I'm sure there are others.
I've never done a 2500, but I believe the large castle nut on that model may need to be removed. Sounds like a bit more work. If you make a video, let me know and I'll have a look. Good luck.
No, the diff can stay in place for the right side, it's a far easier repair. Just beware that when the right goes, the left may soon go as well. And if the left goes you will have to go back into the right to release the diff!
I noticed, I just couldn't find what the part was specifically called. I've already trashed one seal trying to pull it in to just like you did but with washers
Quad 4X4 was the company, search their website for part based on your vehicle.
Nathan Staggs mopmoo
awesome vid..goin to tackle the same seal on my high pinion dana 30 with cad. i welded the diff and run a posiloc cable instead of vaccum setup to engage the axle..a steel fork is goin in too. poor mans selectable locker...kinda.
Thank you
What is the part number for the special tool to install this seal?
I replaced the CV put everything together and had a clunking noise. Took it all back apart and noticed what looks like the clutch collar disconnect is just wobbling around and not connected to anything I lined it up as best I could onto intermediate shaft and reassembled still making clunking noise. Noise goes away when 4wd is engaged I'm thoroughly confused
I suppose the forks could be lined up incorrectly. Those forks are meant to slide in the groove of the nut they control, so the nut is held in place by the forks, neither able to slide one way nor the other without active movement of the forks. I would pull the back plate off and make sure the forks are properly aligned in the groove, capturing the nut. I would check to be sure the nut is correctly oriented. The forks are controlled by a pair of black and red vacuum tubes that lead back to the transfer case. I suppose you could have accidentally pulled one of those vacuum actuator connections off. I show more views of this in a few videos, most recently in a video titled "Dodge Ram, Front Brakes and Leaking Gasket Repairs...", about 2 minutes in. The dealers repair manual shows fairly good detail of how it should look.
Thanks for the video, just curious...my collar would not just come out like that. Although I ended up replacing my seal without removing the collar but just curious if you had to do anything else to be able to remove the collar? Thank you
If you're talking about what I called a 'nut' at 5:07, perhaps your vehicle is designed a little differently. In the end it sounds like you made it work even without removing that piece. You can slide the whole intermediate shaft out if need be, it has to be removed to get the differential out.
I hate to be the person to say something won't work, since history is full of people who in retrospect were closed minded. But honestly I doubt that will work. There are tons of people who have gone through all the work to replace that seal only to have it fail right away, and in retrospect they wish they had done it right the first time. Personally I would try that hole saw trick described in the comments, or maybe borrow or buy a seal driver.
Good luck, and please let us know how it worked.
WOULD YOU PLEASE TELL ME WHERE YOU BOUGHT THE SEAL WRENCH THAT U USED IN THE VIDEO TO INSTALL THE SEAL AND WOULD YOU BE KIND ENOUGH TO ANSWER A QUESTION BEFORE I TEAR A FRONT END APART? THE DRIVE SHAFT WILL TURN TO THE FRONT AXLE BUT THE FRONT WHEELS WONT PULL, ANY IDEA WHAT MIGHT BE CAUSING THE PROBLEM
Does anyone know how much gear oil that Center Axle Disconnect "window" holds in the area that seal was replaced? I had to replace mine as it started leaking heavily and I cannot find fluid capacity for this anywhere. Thanks for the great video! It was super helpful!
In the smaller axles of this vintage, the fluid is confluent with the diff fluid. If you fill the diff fluid up, gear oil will make its way over to the right axle tube. I put in no more than a hundred cc before bolting on the cover plate so it won't start dry.
Chuck, I posted a two part video of a transfer case to transmission seal repair this week. Cheers!
How do you remove the inner and outer seal on the right side of the front axle on a 99 ram 1500 4x4
I'm guessing that it is very similar. The 98 was a new model year, and that axle has been around for decades. Newest models switched to electric actuators but these old trucks were vacuum actuated.
A condom on a porn star, had me laughing for awhile. LOL!
Same! Didn’t see it comin from this fella, made it so much funnier!
Ok, nevermind, I found Jmwtedder's video on it. 2" hole saw it is.
I've never faced that problem so I won't be much help there. Presumably you need to pull the bearing and replace it. Which bearing is it?
Thanks for the info , ya I ll keep an eye on it like you said. , I think if I have to change the seal , I ll make one of your seal pullers, seems to work well in your vid, Take care .. Rick
Awesome 🥳 but where do I find this item to purchase 🤔
As I read this again, I'm guessing this is actually a real question. The seal driver I used was from Quad4X4, but if I were you I'd read the comment by Daniel Stevens, where he made one himself with a 3D printer. Much cheaper, he included the details needed in that thread.
@@spelunkerd thank you 🥳👍
Hole saw should fit against the 'metal part deep inside' @ 2:05 ? I haven't bought the seal yet to look at.
Ha ha, very funny! He's a couple of decades younger, thanks for the complement.
what about a pvc. pipe w/glued cap. hole drilled in middle. All thread and a 3/8 all thread with dent slide hammer?
+precinct 1 baltimore county residents That's a good thought. The biggest problem with this seal is the minimal, thin contact surface which I recall is slightly recessed from the outside surface. It's much more difficult than a normal seal, only because of that. To make matters worse, generic seals are differently shaped which makes fitting even more problematic. If you have found something that fits well and works, I'm sure many others would find your contribution useful.
Thanks for the video! Doing this repair. Do you have the link for the seal driver you used?
I used a seal made by Quad4X4, but it was expensive. The discussion thread has many bright options, including the option to make one with a 3D printer. I sent the dimensions to a guy who made a printer file for people to make their own.
Ok thank you very much!
That's a great story, thanks for the feedback.
Are the balljoints the same on this as the 1990 style dodge dana 44 front axle? If so, Sh^tcan the newer knuckles and sealed bearing assemblies and replace them with the 1990 dodge hub style front end.
+Ben Benjamin I don't know for sure, but I'll guess it's an old design.
Question. When you remove drive shaft. No differential fluid should follow correct? Even if it was not leaking before removing it. I might have moved seal removing hub assembly
Most of the time I don't get any oil draining when removing either of the front outer axles. For the right front axle seal, you'll get about 50 cc of gear oil dripping after you take off the shift housing shown at 4:54, so use a pan for that. It doesn't drain a lot, but if you don't get any fluid out the shift housing plate you should check your oil level in the main diff housing to be sure you're properly filled up. Guys with newer models sometimes add gear oil back in through the sensor port of the shift housing when they are putting it all back together, but I've never done that. My OEM manual doesn't mention it, but newer models may have more of a seal, so check your manual. In my Ram there is no seal separating that cavity from the main front diff, so gear oil will find its way over the the shift housing fairly quickly. If the outer seals fail on either side, you'll get a characteristic oil drip pattern on the inside sidewall of the tire on that side. It leaks especially with a hard turn to the opposite side.
@@spelunkerd great info thanks. Looks like im good. Picking up rebuilt driveshaft tomorrow. 👍
Do you have a link for that seal driver? Thank you for what you do- your videos have helped me immensely!
I got mine through Quad 4X4 but I'm sure there are cheaper options.
@@spelunkerd ended up purchasing the Wahlstrom tool. At your cost estimation it was only about $10 more. Worked like an absolute charm.
genius... would you be able to tighten the nut by the seal to see how far the seal has to go in or was there no room?..
No room. The main glitch I had on this attempt was that the whole shaft turned, unscrewing the nut at the other end, inside the housing. To prevent that from happening I put a second 'locking' nut on the first one inside the housing, which held the shaft still so the outside nut could pull that channel iron in. The shaft that is sold commercially for this use is fine thread, giving more mechanical advantage and smooth control.
Where can you buy the seal driver for the inner seal on passenger side on a 2000 dodge 4x4 ram 1500
It's been years since I did this but I used Quad4X4, as outlined in the comments thread. They are more expensive than I wanted but they worked on the OEM seal, only. You may find better more cost effective options now, google is your friend.
The coupling that connects the inner and outer axels keeps sliding off and in the process eliminating the right side from the differential? Please help.
I put the coupling back how it came out and it fits into the holder on the lid of the housing
Something must be wrong with the way it went back together, the controller should actively control how that coupling moves by movement of the fork that slides it on and off. I would be checking functionality of the mechanism that does that. Some of those are vacuum activated, so a vacuum leak might be an issue with that design. In a system designed with electrical activation, you should be able to work out whether it is working. I'm sorry, I'm not able to help other than that. If in doubt, check the OEM repair manual for more detail as to how yours is designed to work.
Their website is quad4X4.com. If you get one of those custom seals you need to order an OEM seal, because the fit with generic seals is not exact. I had an old National seal and that one doesn't fit very well.
Thank you very much that’s a good help appreciate it yes, sir
The driver I used was made by Quad4X4, you can google that name. Other competitors may be more cost effective, or you could try the hole saw idea that some readers describe in the comments. The latter option seems like a reasonable plan if you are willing to try to make your own.
what is the deal with the intermediate shaft in the CAD ? my nose is worn to a point from driving with a bad ujoint. the execess end play wore out the actuator fork and the intermediate axle nose. So can I pull the intermediate axle out and replace with out going in the jack pot? this whole job is costing big money just for the parts.i buy good parts when digging deep as to not have to redo from part failure. I cant find any exploded view diagrams of this. also is a the nose replaceable? all the pics of intermediate axles don't show a nose. im guessing the axle I just put the ujoint on will have to be replaced too.
+precinct 1 baltimore county residents I use Alldatadiy, which is about $45 for a 5 year subscription. It's very similar to what the dealer uses, and it will have exploded parts diagrams with torque ratings, TSB's, etc. You may find parts like the intermediate axle at a junk yard, I'm not sure how much those go for in the aftermarket. Yeah, I replaced both U joints, and the truck requires maintenance. However I'll be sad to see my Dodge go -- it was a fun vehicle to work on. There is loads of room to work, and parts are usually fairly cheap, compared to newer vehicles.
What is the part# for that seal tool . i bought some off ebay and they were wrong after giving my vin# and other information.and spending close 2 300$ and can't return . so if you have a part # that would be appreciated. Thanks mike.
I found an aftermarket option on the net, Quad4X4 was the company, more details in the discussion thread. It was expensive, and you need to use the OEM seal because it is a custom fit. A better idea is to take it to a store that can 3D print a seal driver for you. The plans are in the discussion thread, too, and there is a link to the exact details needed for 3D printing. Alternatively you could use a hole saw and fabricate something yourself. I tried that, and failed, but others were more successful. Good luck!
@@spelunkerd that's what I did I use the tune 5/8 hole saw for the back part of the seal and then I had to take about 1/8 in off of that to get the exact back size of the seal but then I also made one for the front of the seal I think it was 2 1/8 or 2 and 1/4 inch with a hole saw and that one fit inside the axle tube which was used to hold the front of the seal while the other one I made which was 215 Ace that I took about an eighth inch off that one was used for the back of the seal to kind of sandwich the seal between the two brackets not to the extent that it damage is Seal but just enough to hold it in place to pull through the front of the axle tube to get it to seat which it worked but I just wanted to get the actual one so that next time if I need it I don't have to use the ones I made but the ones I made worked if it's just I had to kind of watch it as I was tightening it and then I had to check it to make sure it was seeing right as soon as I started tightening it, it's kind of like if you've ever used those self collapsing rivets the new Dodge Rams have collapsible thread inserts that are used on the underside of The Rocker to hold the step plates so it's kind of like that where when when you when you're squeezing the threaded insert and as soon as you feel it give way that means that you have to stop and check it to make sure you don't over tighten it but it's just enough that you know the seal went in straight which is how I did it yesterday but I had to stop and check it as I was tightening it to make sure that I didn't go too far so far it's not leaking but I haven't refilled it yet to see if it's going to leak but I know because I took pictures of the seal I know that it seated right. I just want to get the axle seal tool so I don't have to use the ones I made not the ones I made don't work but when you have the exact tool you don't have to fight with it to check to make sure that it's eating right when you make your own stuff like I did you have to take your time with it to make sure that it works this is the second time as is with you having to do it a second time the first time I did it the seal one and crook it and that was with the tools that I was told were the right ones that I bought off eBay after giving them my VIN number and everything and they said they were the right ones yet they pulled the seal in crooked. So then I had to make those medallions or discs if you want to call him that out of quarter inch plate steel I think it was a piece of 3 in by quarter inch flat stock which then I had to use two different size hole saw pieces to cut them out and then I had to Center the holes on them so when I put it on the threaded Rod that they were centered so that way the seal would go in straight but like I said I centered the seal and I compressed the seal between the two pieces that I made not tight just hand tight I hand tighten the nut on the top of the plate I did just to keep the seal from moving up or down it was just enough pressure to keep the seal from not moving and then once I did that I was able to tighten the seal from the outer part of the axial there by pulling it into the seal place for it to seat. but I am going to review that site you recommended to see if I can find that seal piece or find somebody who has it I just didn't know if you had a was there a part number on your peace. anyways thanks for your time I'm going to review that site for the part and maybe see if somebody has one . I would venture to say that the split axle was not one of dodges fire moments. which brings another question which is that if Dodge knew they were selling these trucks like the tools are needed it's not like it's a aftermarket piece you know it's a factory piece that is still rolling around the streets of the United States and they just discontinued making the tool needed to fix that which is messed up. anyways thanks again if I have any more questions I hope you wouldn't mind if I would send them to you. thanks Mike. also be safe out there with this covid stuff going around .
@@michaelgonzalez6692 With increasing use of plastic and microelectronics, we're going to see a lot more problems with discontinued parts in the coming decade, especially when manufacturers completely retool for electric cars. Fortunately this one has the work around of 3d printing, if needed. I pinned the discussion of 3d printing so people can find it more easily. Cheers,
Dave
That's a great idea, Andy!
That's always a difficult question, since the first time takes a lot longer than the second time. Alldata list repair of the right front axle seal as 1.4 hours of shop time, and 5.2 hours of shop time for the left. The reason the left is longer is because you need to remove the right to get at the left. If I had to do the right again, I could do it in under 2 hours. But the first time it took me easily 4 hours, and you note I had to do it again a year later (two hours second time).
Great video very detailed thank you
nvm i found it tyvm you been very helpful with your 2 video's, you aren ot going to make a 3rd one i hope you corrected the seal leakage problem?
It depends on whether you are going to use an OEM seal or an aftermarket seal. The seal made by them only fits the former, there is quite a difference.
If I had a lathe, I would get the actual seal I would be using, and design he driver around that. I'll see if I can find the one I have again, we've moved and it might be lost. If I can find it I will give you some rough dimensions.