Replace right front axle seal, 1998 Dodge Ram 4X4, part 2
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2011
- The right front axle seal on a 1998 Dodge Ram 4X4 can be difficult, because of limited access to the seal insertion site. That vehicle uses the popular Dana 44, 216FBI axle, used in many light trucks of that vintage. The seal fits into a small cavity in the 4WD shifter housing, and there is no room to swing a hammer or use conventional seal drivers. This video shows a simple method to reliably seat that seal. This video follows my other video describing how I replaced both front axle seals in the same vehicle.
Another viewer, Andy Harter, has commented that you can make your own seal driver by using a circular hole saw, about 2-2 1/4", grinding off the teeth and using that to drag the seal into place. It sounds like a great idea, though I haven't tried it myself. If you try it, please leave a remark here to say how it worked for you. Recently Jmwtedder did a couple of videos showing how this worked for him, here.
• Axle Seal Tool for 98 ...
Note that he had to cut the hole saw down to a low profile before it would fit in the housing.
This video is made for entertainment purposes and is not to be construed as an instruction guide. I am not a professional mechanic, so you should bear in mind that a professional might have accomplished this task very differently. If you need advice regarding how to repair your vehicle, you should consult a qualified professional. Remember also to take all appropriate safety precautions, certainly use safety glasses, and remember to carefully test your brakes after any vehicle repair. If you attempt to repair your vehicle, then you do so at your own risk. - Авто та транспорт
Great video, sure appreciate the work you have done to get us through this pain of a task. I finished the job in about 10 hours changing the front left and right seals of a 1998 2500 with a DANA 60F diff. Removed the ring gear without a case spreader and used a socket from my tool box to drive in the left seal and an Oreilley's rental seal driver kit, ready rod and a piece of PVC tube called a 1.5" Terminal Adapter costing $1.99 that I found wandering Ace Hardware to crank in the right seal. The right seal was a do over with success on the second attempt. I did it on my driveway and am very happy to have an extra grand in my pocket to play with. Thanks again!
Actually its a good video, well done. By the way, for those with the Dodge Ram 2500s, the quickest way to tell a Dana 44 from a Dana 60 front diff is the hex size of the front cover: Dana 44" is a 1/2" hex bolt, the Dana 60 is a 9/16" hex bolt. Also, for those that are curious about the death wobble syndrome, we are using Hellbent racing steering box sector shaft stabilizer kit, and also weld-boxing the control arms, with energy higher duromoter bushings. Also purchase the best track bar you can afford, like a moog problem solver, or if you are lifted, an adjustable track bar. Lastly, do not use any ball joint except Moog Problem solver. The rest are junk. These front ends can suck up thousands of dollars of excess cash, so plan well from the beginning. Just our 2 cents worth here. Thanks
I know this was posted 6yrs ago, but I'll try anyway lol. do you know if the 1500 4x4 came with the dana 44 as well
@@isaakteichroeb1175 the underhood sticker on my 1997 1500 4x4 says front “Dana 4”. Rear “Chrysler 9.25”
@herbb8412 awesome good to know really appreciate your replie
Thanks for the video. I changed my right front seal today and couldn't have done it without watching this first. I used a seal driver with a length of ready rod and it did set the seal in place. Thanks again.
I found that if I tried to keep rod centred I had trouble I let it kinda wander within reason and boom! done . Thanks! O I used a big washer instead of channel Update seal failed and 3D printed driver failed. Got one machined out of steel gonna try again soon. Ok steel one worked (I think) had to use a square tube instead of the washer, washer couldnt take it. Let you know in a day or so. Great video!!
I made a seal installer from a 1/2" sheave center I picked up at a supply store, the inside shoulder is 1 1/2" diameter which holds the seal. I also used a piece of 2" muffler pipe about a 1/2" long. The outside of the sheave had to be ground down to fit in the tube and the piece of muffler pushes the seal into place using a 1/2" length of redi rod. The sheave cost $7.99, the piece of scrap muffler pipe was free from the local muffler shop. Worked very well. Axle was a Dana 60 (not a 44).
I always like it when somebody comes up with good ideas like this. Thanks for posting it here, I'm sure others will appreciate your contribution!
I just reviewed your channel. You do some serious off-roading! I can't say my truck has seen so much mud, but I'm sure it wants to. Nice to meet you, and thanks for your contribution.
I must say, that is a brilliant idea. I need to change mine, and have been dreading it. but u made it look much easier.
You're amazing. I like how you called it, "trucks of that vintage" :)
Thank you very much. Your video allowed me to replace my seal on the first try. Couldn't have done it with out you. Thanks again :)
Great video! If possible it would be a good idea to put a link in the description of where you bought the seal driver. I just finished filming the posi-lock kit install video that replaces that vacuum pod. Again great video!
Great video, really helped out a lot changing the front axle seals on my Dodge. Thanks for making this.
You're welcome, I'm glad it helped.
That tool is a great idea. I have something similar, homemade. I use a cup one one end, fits inside the seal, pulls on the metal part, long rod with a nut, but I use a slide hammer on the other end, but its a 2 person job. But with your set up, definitely a one person job.
great videos and explanation. Another thing to do is not overfill the differential. this is cause of >90% of "leaking seals". As you found, your one seal was in good shape. Too many fill differential up to level of fill hole. Should be about 3/4" below. Many seals done unnecessarily. Still, great write up, thanks. Need to do a R&P replacement and will freshen seals while in.
@gravity006 That is an interesting idea. However remember that the intermediate shaft would have to be reinstalled after the seal is in place, and it doesn't slide in very well, possibly dislodging the seal as it is put in. Also, the big problem is the unfriendly shape of the seal, with the soft rubber parts vulnerable to damage. The best way to install the right seal is the way I've done it here....
Thanks for your creative and thoughtful contribution.
great video you just saved me alot of head ache ,i didnt know there was an inner seal i was just looking for info on the outer seal
You make a good point, and if I ever have to do it again I'll do it dry. The first two times I installed the seal on that side I did it dry. But this time, out of frustration, I put a thin film of Permatex on the outside surface, since I wondered if fluid leaked around the outside of the seal. Of course there is no Permatex on the inside.
It worked, and I doubt I'll ever have to do that side again. But if I do, it will be more work to clean the old gasket off. Thanks for your contribution.
@briansmobile1 Hi, Brian. Thanks for your comment! The company is 4X4 Tech Inc, and I found them to be friendly and helpful, based out of Montana. It took about 2 weeks for the driver to arrive by regular mail here in Alberta, but I am sure they are faster inside the USA border or for special orders.
Tip from one who had to deal with this same seal problem . Use the old seal turned back to back to the new seal with a washer and nut with alltread just as you did on the inside. The old seal fits perfectly on the back of the new one , for cheap just a stick of alltread and your old seal . 7.00$ old school . I do like your special seal puller though . It looks like it works well .
That's a great story, thanks for the feedback.
I tapped in the passenger side seal of my 1997 RAM 1500 using a 4 foot long 3/4" pipe with a cap on the hammering end and a coupler on the impact end that I put on once the pipe was already inserted from the driver's side. I wrapped the pipe with Teflon tape to protect the roller bearing that is just inside of the 4WD activator. I used a 2 1/8 " hole saw with the teeth ground off and smoothed to place on the seal to drive it in. Rather painless. It did take 2 of us to do this.... one at each end.
@GoldenRamMtlmstr And thank you , Kathy. Glad it helped, though I feel the pain of doing it on a different vintage.
If you don't have the special seal tool, you can use a shallow 2 or 2 1/8 inch hole saw (about 1" deep) and grind the teeth flat. it is the perfect size to install the seal using the same basic method with the threaded rod and it is much cheaper.
The problem is permanently solved, no issues now. I still drive the vehicle daily. Thanks for watching.
I'll do it if I can find it (moved recently). Note that the size of the driver is reflected in the size of the seal, and you can buy a seal at any autostore. The national seal that I bought locally was a different size than the OEM seal, and so if you are designing a driver to fit your seal then you need to machine it to the brand of seal you're using. Also, you want it to fit your exact vehicle. I gave you a pretty good view of the driver in the video. Well designed.
Sounds like an interesting plan, good luck! Be sure you can still service the seals and axles after you're done.
Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad it worked out. This is not an easy repair, ha ha.
Thanks for posting this video , nice Job,,,I may have to replace my seal, I just changed my
u joint ,rite side, but now theres a small leak from the axle area ...
Thanks for the compliment. If you try using a modified circular hole saw rather than the custom tool, please let the rest of us know how it goes.
@4g63junkie Yeah, It's pretty simple. The CAD is vacuum driven, and when actuated it pushes the fork, which slides that nut over to mesh with the splines of both the intermediate axle and the wheel axle at the same time. When disengaged it only rides on one axle, and the other axle spins independently. The principle is very similar to that of the Chev, that I showed in a different video. Thanks for your comment.
Very nice. Just found your video since i hsve s leaking front right seal. I am impressed with your work snd the presentation of the vudeo. I still don't know if i can do the repair although you provided all the needed details to be successful. Thank you and be well
It's OK to watch for a week or two if leak is small and you keep an eye on the level. There is a chance it is just fluid in the tube which will settle. But, more likely you will be doing the seal.
Good luck!
Doing this again at my shop due to failure on round one. Thanks for the vid. This helped me to see the depth desired. THANKS!!! Can I borrow your custom seal driver??? LOL
I love to meet people who think with creative flare, and so it's great to meet you. In this case I'm not sure it would work, since the edge of the seal is so narrow that it wouldn't have enough contact surface area to match up and bear the pressure needed to pull it in. The seal is designed to be squeezed radially inward, so the old seal will have a slightly smaller radius than the new seal. You might try using the hole saw drill bit trick, described in the comments....
Thanks for the info , ya I ll keep an eye on it like you said. , I think if I have to change the seal , I ll make one of your seal pullers, seems to work well in your vid, Take care .. Rick
A condom on a porn star, had me laughing for awhile. LOL!
That's a great idea, Andy!
That's an excellent point not to overfill. These days, the first thing I do is to check it is not overfilled (at the same time checking the vent).
Thanks for the reply! Do you think using the old seal facing the same way as the new seal would work?
That's always a difficult question, since the first time takes a lot longer than the second time. Alldata list repair of the right front axle seal as 1.4 hours of shop time, and 5.2 hours of shop time for the left. The reason the left is longer is because you need to remove the right to get at the left. If I had to do the right again, I could do it in under 2 hours. But the first time it took me easily 4 hours, and you note I had to do it again a year later (two hours second time).
Hi, Chuck. Mine is leaking at the front seal between the trans and the case, and I'm planning to pull it off to have a look. Probably needs two seals, hopefully that's all. The case itself seems to be OK. I did do a transfer case job on a suburban, though I asked a pro to do the technical part. If you are interested in how the suburban case came on and off you can find it on my channel. It is quite a bit of work just to take it on and off, with some heavy lifting in awkward positions. Good luck!
I then had to make something work, but would rather have the right tool. I made 2 pieces 0ut of 3inch wide × 3/16 or 1/4 inch thick using a 2-5/8 hole saw for the one piece to pull on the back of seal. The other one the. Can't remember, but it just fits the axel tube on rt side. Basically the smaller one fits in the axel RT tube which I used for the axel tube side of the inner seal snugging them together hand tight with the Seal imbetween them just enough so the seal doesn't get pulled in crooked. Has worked for me.
Chuck, I posted a two part video of a transfer case to transmission seal repair this week. Cheers!
You're welcome -- there's just one seal on each side, but they are not easy to get to. Also take note of the suggestion made by Andy Harter, below, for a DIY alternative to a custom seal driver. Sounds like a good idea!
great video very helpful i was wondering how that cad worked and if i ever need axle seals i know how to put them in thanks
Thank you, John.
Thanks. Check out the links and the discussion in this thread for more options.
need to know where can i get a seal driver part number that is on your video for a 1998 dodge ram 4x4 that you show in video thanks
Ha ha, very funny! He's a couple of decades younger, thanks for the complement.
Yes, the 2500 is significantly different. As I recall, somebody said that you do need to remove the big axle nut on that one. You will want to get hold of a dealers manual before tackling it.
Yes, I do believe a bad U-joint is the most common cause of this. Those U-joints commonly go bad, I've replaced both sides -- I should have recorded that effort but I didn't. Usually you get a clicking sound with each turn of the tire, when you steer to one side.
Quad4X4. Expensive. Other options? I'm intrigued by the idea one viewer described, using a circular hole saw....
I used 5/8" NC threaded rod, which is readily available.
You need two seals, one for each side.But, if you replace the right one first, and then the left fails, you have a problem. In that case you may find yourself having to replace the right a second time, in which case you would need three. Hopefully the left fails first so you only need two. It's so much extra work to do the left that I wouldn't replace it as a preventative effort when doing the right.
The main reason for a dedicated specialty tool on the right is the limited access, preventing you from just tapping it in with a socket and a hammer. On the left, you need to remove the diff, so you have lots of room after that is done. I did a video of how to do the left and I showed how easy it is to just tap it in with a socket and small hammer -- check my video. Just remember that to get at the left, you need to remove the right, because the diff won't come out until the right axle is out.
awesome vid..goin to tackle the same seal on my high pinion dana 30 with cad. i welded the diff and run a posiloc cable instead of vaccum setup to engage the axle..a steel fork is goin in too. poor mans selectable locker...kinda.
Another great video! Thanks for the info.
good video , is the process the same on a 1999 4x4 2500?
Nice vid my man.. good D.I.Y.
thank you
found it right away
Guys you can rent the seal driver plates at oriellys, jus buy the nuts and 17” thread.
Plate on each end followed by nut
This was worth the watch .
id just like to know where the tool was purchased spelunkerd
What are your thoughts on taking the old seal, turning it around backwards, and using that same washer to press on the inside metal ring of the old seal? It would pull so that the old seal presses out the outer ring of the new seal. Is this plausible? Thanks a lot!
~Jason
Thanks for noting your experience.
Thank you
I found kits for sale just by using Google. The seal driver that I eventually bought came from a company called quad4X4. They were good. But if I were to do this again I would probably try to save the cash (nearly $100) and make my own. Andy Harter in the comments below suggested using a circular hole saw, which sounds to me like a good idea, though I've never tried it. He ground the teeth off, choosing a size that just fits inside the seal so pressure is on the strong inside metal flange.
This really isnt a bad "junk yard joe" way of installing axle seals but people plz do not apply permatex to the axle seal. ANY seal that is coated with an orange,blue or any color coating is a dry install seal.
Are the balljoints the same on this as the 1990 style dodge dana 44 front axle? If so, Sh^tcan the newer knuckles and sealed bearing assemblies and replace them with the 1990 dodge hub style front end.
+Ben Benjamin I don't know for sure, but I'll guess it's an old design.
were did you get your axle seal driver i cant seem to find one on amazon or ebay!! i need one to replace my seal on my 97 dodge ram 1500.
(continued) So, to answer your question (grin), I think they are different size, but it doesn't matter because you don't need a special tool to do the left. Such tools are sold and you could buy one, but I wouldn't bother.
nvm i found it tyvm you been very helpful with your 2 video's, you aren ot going to make a 3rd one i hope you corrected the seal leakage problem?
WOULD YOU PLEASE TELL ME WHERE YOU BOUGHT THE SEAL WRENCH THAT U USED IN THE VIDEO TO INSTALL THE SEAL AND WOULD YOU BE KIND ENOUGH TO ANSWER A QUESTION BEFORE I TEAR A FRONT END APART? THE DRIVE SHAFT WILL TURN TO THE FRONT AXLE BUT THE FRONT WHEELS WONT PULL, ANY IDEA WHAT MIGHT BE CAUSING THE PROBLEM
Awesome video! My friends and I have been scratching our heads over this all night. Can you PM me the link to the custom tool that you used to install the CAD seal? We have tried everything and I have to agree with you that this is the only way to accomplish such a goal.
I've never faced that problem so I won't be much help there. Presumably you need to pull the bearing and replace it. Which bearing is it?
Did u have to drop the diff out when you done the passenger side or just the lil plate
Thanks for the video, just curious...my collar would not just come out like that. Although I ended up replacing my seal without removing the collar but just curious if you had to do anything else to be able to remove the collar? Thank you
If you're talking about what I called a 'nut' at 5:07, perhaps your vehicle is designed a little differently. In the end it sounds like you made it work even without removing that piece. You can slide the whole intermediate shaft out if need be, it has to be removed to get the differential out.
that is a damn good idea . nice work
So would that be a total of 3 seals that would need to be replaced of just two? ..And what size or guage threaded rod did you use?
Damn, I just learned automotive stuff from Lionel Messi XD
Ok, nevermind, I found Jmwtedder's video on it. 2" hole saw it is.
hey were did you find that custom seal driver you showed us in the video
I've never done a 2500, but I believe the large castle nut on that model may need to be removed. Sounds like a bit more work. If you make a video, let me know and I'll have a look. Good luck.
take the old drivers side seal and use it as a press with threaded rod works perfect take sping out of new pasenger side seal and reinstall it after press proceder
Question. When you remove drive shaft. No differential fluid should follow correct? Even if it was not leaking before removing it. I might have moved seal removing hub assembly
Most of the time I don't get any oil draining when removing either of the front outer axles. For the right front axle seal, you'll get about 50 cc of gear oil dripping after you take off the shift housing shown at 4:54, so use a pan for that. It doesn't drain a lot, but if you don't get any fluid out the shift housing plate you should check your oil level in the main diff housing to be sure you're properly filled up. Guys with newer models sometimes add gear oil back in through the sensor port of the shift housing when they are putting it all back together, but I've never done that. My OEM manual doesn't mention it, but newer models may have more of a seal, so check your manual. In my Ram there is no seal separating that cavity from the main front diff, so gear oil will find its way over the the shift housing fairly quickly. If the outer seals fail on either side, you'll get a characteristic oil drip pattern on the inside sidewall of the tire on that side. It leaks especially with a hard turn to the opposite side.
@@spelunkerd great info thanks. Looks like im good. Picking up rebuilt driveshaft tomorrow. 👍
this is a good video.... great innovation
I got the seal wrench from quad 4X4, search their name with Google. Don't forget to read all the comments on this thread for other options. Regarding the front axle, that sounds like a transfer case problem to me, maybe a problem with the encoder motor. I don't consider myself an expert in that area, but encoder motor problems can be electrical, mechanical, or malfunction of the encoder motor itself.
Thanks ill buy this tool. Cause Saving a dollar ain't worth the frustration and time. When u figure time into it it's worth having the tool thanks for your help
+precinct 1 baltimore county residents Yes, if the shaft dislodges the seal when you reinsert the shaft, the seal hasn't been adequately seated first. The right tool makes this go very easily, but I certainly understand the motivation to make your own seal driver. Many guys in this comment thread have said that a hole saw can be ground down to make a good seal driver, although you have to factor in your effort and time, as well.
We're did you get the driver at
I want to try and make a seal driver tool now. The fitted round press tool you paid so much for should maybe be mad from JB welding various diameter washers on top of one another to achieve the same specs as the expensive piece. I may give it a try to see what I can come up with. Thanks for the videos
+HARLEY D have a look at the discussion thread, there are lots of good ideas there. I like the idea to use a cylindrical hole saw. Good luck!
+spelunkerd agreed ! There are all sorts of clever ideas !
I made a press circular special tool out of a Hole Saw and put some plastic circles in side it to replicate the tool that you buy. Im anxious to see how it works!
Please stop by after you're done to tell us how it worked out.
+spelunkerd wish I could put a picture on here. It holds the seal perfectly straight. If it works, I'll do a write up on dodgeforum additional to yours with some pics.
$180 in parts to keep a truck you've paid for OR $65k for a new truck and pay someone else to work on it. i'll buy the tools, thank you.
I'm having major trouble with having the seal go in angled, essentially ruining it. I'm using the same driver from quad4x4 and a straight threaded 5/8th rod. Seat in the axle house all seems good. No idea what is making it not go in straight. Do you have any ideas? Do you remember what brand of seal you used?
Only the OEM seal from Chrysler will work with that driver, get it at the dodge dealer. My experience was similar.
skillful video, thank you...
quad4X4 -- it's expensive. If you read the comments you will find other options. I like the one where guys modify a 2-21/4" hole saw.
Great video very detailed thank you
Thank you very much that’s a good help appreciate it yes, sir
I hate to be the person to say something won't work, since history is full of people who in retrospect were closed minded. But honestly I doubt that will work. There are tons of people who have gone through all the work to replace that seal only to have it fail right away, and in retrospect they wish they had done it right the first time. Personally I would try that hole saw trick described in the comments, or maybe borrow or buy a seal driver.
Good luck, and please let us know how it worked.
The coupling that connects the inner and outer axels keeps sliding off and in the process eliminating the right side from the differential? Please help.
I put the coupling back how it came out and it fits into the holder on the lid of the housing
Something must be wrong with the way it went back together, the controller should actively control how that coupling moves by movement of the fork that slides it on and off. I would be checking functionality of the mechanism that does that. Some of those are vacuum activated, so a vacuum leak might be an issue with that design. In a system designed with electrical activation, you should be able to work out whether it is working. I'm sorry, I'm not able to help other than that. If in doubt, check the OEM repair manual for more detail as to how yours is designed to work.
where did you buy the seal press from? I'm having trouble finding one
Quad4X4 online, though I thought it was expensive. Read through the comments thread, there are lots of other options that readers describe.
Hi
Excelent video and technique..
Maybe you can help me.
I have to replace the inner bushing in te axle.
Is the bushing in the other side of the 4WD shifter housing, the one that goes to de differential side.
The axle goes up and down there, and I belive thats the reason why my seal gets broken.
How do I remove the old one?
Do you have any experience on that?
Thank you
Domingo
I'd pull it apart and find out what is wrong. That said, it is not uncommon for that axle seal to fall apart if you haven't seated it correctly, especially if you didn't use a dedicated seal driver to place it.
@@spelunkerd Thanks for your rapidlly response.
I live in Uruguay and here only a few people know about this Ram model.
I just finished taking all passengers axles and it seems that in a previous owner repair they didnt put the bushing, now I understand why every time I engaged the 4 x 4 i hear an ugly noise "clang", that was the inner axle hiting the house of the diferential.
I will put a new one.
Thanks
Thanks for the video! Doing this repair. Do you have the link for the seal driver you used?
I used a seal made by Quad4X4, but it was expensive. The discussion thread has many bright options, including the option to make one with a 3D printer. I sent the dimensions to a guy who made a printer file for people to make their own.
Ok thank you very much!
Thank you so much for the information
what is the deal with the intermediate shaft in the CAD ? my nose is worn to a point from driving with a bad ujoint. the execess end play wore out the actuator fork and the intermediate axle nose. So can I pull the intermediate axle out and replace with out going in the jack pot? this whole job is costing big money just for the parts.i buy good parts when digging deep as to not have to redo from part failure. I cant find any exploded view diagrams of this. also is a the nose replaceable? all the pics of intermediate axles don't show a nose. im guessing the axle I just put the ujoint on will have to be replaced too.
+precinct 1 baltimore county residents I use Alldatadiy, which is about $45 for a 5 year subscription. It's very similar to what the dealer uses, and it will have exploded parts diagrams with torque ratings, TSB's, etc. You may find parts like the intermediate axle at a junk yard, I'm not sure how much those go for in the aftermarket. Yeah, I replaced both U joints, and the truck requires maintenance. However I'll be sad to see my Dodge go -- it was a fun vehicle to work on. There is loads of room to work, and parts are usually fairly cheap, compared to newer vehicles.