Very nice. I would also add that I bought a replacement unit that quit after a year, and it used the rheostat-on-circuit-board method like your original (though my Riviera OE unit had the discrete pot...) When I opened it up, it turned out that the only problem was that they had plopped so much grease in the case that the wipers on the back of the big gear were being isolated. Took out most of the grease & cleaned the traces, and it worked fine again when I plugged it back in.
Good dope right here!! These videos explain why the things go haywire if they're stroked while disconnected like my 96 C3500 was. I centered the pot, tossed a little fresh grease on the gears and presto - The air goes where the switch says it should go! Thanks so much for the info!!
I got a BRAND NEW actuator, SK604100, from Rock auto. Didn't get a chance to put it on there til after 30 days- they won't take a return. Found your vid and it inspired me to look at that pot. I did, and it had a LEAD UNSOLDERED! BRAND NEW! You are THE MAN! MAGA from TX.
@@ThriftyToolShed My new vid might be of some interest. Tried to link it here but it seems to have been tossed out. It's on r u m b l e under 'Manipulating a HVAC actuator to make it work'
Bought the blend door and mode door actuator for my 2000 Pontiac Montana when I was getting clicks. Blend door turned out to be fine. The clicks were from the fresh/recirculate mode door actuator where one of the gears was cracked. It will settle and won’t click depending on your mode selection. Are you sure the fresh/recirculate mode actuator wasn’t what caused your clicks? That said, the instructions said not to connect/disconnect with the key in place so that it will not skip that homing process that happens every time you turn the vehicle on.
Thank you! This was HIGHLY informative. Ordered a replacement tonight for my 2005 Buick LeSabre, essentially the same part. I went aftermarket on purpose since obviously the factory part failed. Maybe a different design will hold up better.
Great video. I have same actuator on my 04 Tahoe. It drives to full hot always. I bought a Amazon replacement and it didn't fix it. I suspect a bad part. Now I'm going to try open the original and test it.
Hey, i just joined this channel. So much knowledge. Thanks a lot! I got no heat in my car and uninstalled my blend door actuators. After opening them i tested the DC motors with a 9 V battery. One of them only turned for 180° and the other around 45° top. They should normally just spin like any DC motor would right?
They should unless it is hitting a hard stop limit in the gear train. With just the motor out, I would have thought it would just spin freely. Unless some use stepper type motors.
Got the same cheap replacement. Mine went out of range as soon as I started the car. Now it won't go back. The manufacturer is telling me it's because I plugged it in and started the car without it installed on the spindle. They're sending me a FREE replacement.
Actuator on my 05 Silverado fails to relearn. Continues hunting in hot or cold position. I suspect a dirty or defective actuator. Will repost when solved. Great video
Thank you for taking the time to make this video! Brilliant. I just wish I'd seen it before buying a replacement actuator (that displayed the same behavior as the one in your video)! Amazing. Well done, Sir and thank you!
Great ! Ok so I purchased brand new AC door, put it in, and it goes all the way to the one end - and recoils about 1/4 way back. Never stays all the way in full cold or hot. It is brand new unit. I called the store I bought it from, they tell me it is "plug 'n' play" device. Any suggestion ?
once a new actuator is installed you must pull hvac eac 10 amp fuse, leave out 10 minutes, reinstall start engine turn on AC let the motor run a few minutes, it will got through the split, mid defrost modes, when it is done, shut of engine. wait 2 minutes, restart engine, turn on AC should work fine, the ECU will self calibrate the actuator. Google your procedure depending on split controlled or auto AC, before you fuddle around needlessly
Great video. Thank you for posting it. I have a 95 Buick riviera that uses the same actuator. I’ve cleaned up the one on it and it works sometimes but not always. Has anyone reading this tried this calibration on a different GM Vehicle? Thanks again and thanks in advance.
It def was that actuator,although it takes a minute to get to,because of the awkwardness of the screws,I haven't replaced my actuator yet but I did turn it from the bottom and opened it up by hand,my heat in the front automatically came on,thanks for the great info,I replaced thermostat for nothing
have a '94 Silverado, had a '95 GMC, both went bad, gear split. this is an '04?? Can't believe they didn't fix these issues within that amount of time. very common, not easy to get to to replace, not cheap either
Ive come across your video and im having the same problem with my 2004 sierra with the same actuator as the one you bought with it going to far but it will not always go back the other direction when move the drivers side heat control. I pulled the fuse and did recalibrate it the first time everything was recalibrating (could hear it) I waited 10 mins turned on truck and It still giving me just hot on drivers and cold on passenger side. I bought another actuator ( same exact one) thinking something is wrong with the first one. Still having the same problem with that one. I’m completely stumped and don’t know what else to do or what the problem could be. Any ideas you could give me?
That is what I did to get mine recalibrated. I no longer have that truck, but it worked after that for quite some time. I don't know how well the cheaper ones will hold up long term, but it's odd you are having issues with 2 of them. It does cross over to the same GMC p/n correct?
@@ThriftyToolShed yes it does. After I recalibrated it I turn on the truck it goes from cold to hot stays on hot when it should be on cold, then I turn off the truck turn it back on it goes back to cold and then right back to hot and will not go back to cold.
Sounds weird, I found this also for steps on recalibrating. Since I have not done this in over 5 years. sparkys-answers.com/2011/08/hvac-actuator-recalibration-procedure.html
My original actuator was "hunting" or constantly moving back and forth you could hear it as well as the temperature was not correct, blowing warm even on cool.
Typical Engineering Failure. Remember days of cables guys. My 70 GT 37..For those of you it was a Pontiac Tempest with400 Cid Ram Air. 345HP. Cables where great. You move a slider that had a cable. Heat, Defrost, and you blended the Temperature anywhere you wanted it to be. all this other shit is pure nightmare. My blower stooped it is the fan relay. more crap to take apart. Good video. But dude. You get what you pay for.
Yes, I remember those good old days. Levers pulling on cables never gave me any trouble. I had a newer style from GM that had a lever, but it switch vacuum signals through a complex manifold/switch. After many years the plastic wore so much, there were vacuum leaks in the multiplexor/switcher that it had to be replaced. Forgive me for not knowing the correct name for the vacuum control brain. Never had a problem with the vacuum actuator.
cut the boot guard w cut off wheel easier access to screws,popped open,has no little green gear,seemed to be out of sync,...recentered reinstalled all good 05 gmc sierra 6.6 2500,...recalibrating wasnt working for me ,anyhow its fixed for now little super glue on the clamshells,keeps it tight,...i had just replaced batteries(diesel) when it got outa sync
There is no calibration. It's a continuous rotational motor , forward and reverse. All you need do is make sure the replacement motor shaft is in the same rotational position of the original motor. That can be done on the test bench , simply with a 9 volt radio battery and two jumper wires, utilizing a small protractor. Since the shaft is not keyed , you can get it put of position by 180 * and still get it right.
You are incorrect. Advanced obd scanners have a relearn option that uses the ECU to reset the actuators. His procedure is a workaround to not having a scanner.
@@ThriftyToolShed I just replace them & they work. They actuators have stoppers in them(at least the mode door one does). Never had a issue. My old one wouldn’t switch to defrost because the gear was cracked.
After taking my actuator apart, I think the manufacturer purposely put a dollop of grease on those copper fingers that ride on the inductors looking track contacts
Connector is never been an issue on mine, almost always the on board variable resistor for feedback as mentioned. Even though the grease is most likely supposed to be there, once the wear on the resistor turns into powder and mixes with the lube, it's got to go. Causes feedback issues.
@@ThriftyToolShed Okay I will go with that; One of the mount screws I think is hard to get to; My shop has an extensive ¼" drive collection • do you know the socket size and if it is metric or SAE?
Believe it or not I even know how to search and find parts on my own. I think it's places called dealerships, maybe RockAuto and maybe at least 1 other place in the world to get parts they are so rare... Not like we have autoparts store on every street corner or anything. I actually did this for video purposes. I recorded it myself also...
After taking my actuator apart, I think the manufacturer purposely put a dollop of grease on those copper fingers that ride on the inductors looking track contacts
joerossi43 , it's typically a resistive track alot like a potentiometer. I had luck twice with mine after cleaning the gear grease off the tracks, but maybe they do? Anyone else out there seen the same thing?
@@ThriftyToolShed It's counter-intuitive, but I've seen dielectric grease applied to the microphone jacks inside a Public Address system. The grease eliminates the cracks and pops when the cord is wiggled. I know the volume controls on an old radio were potentiometers with a wiper, and if they got "scratchy," the fix was some type of aerisol cleaner.
@@birdwing98 Yes I totally agree, I have seen it and I have used it.I believe it is when the carbon track gets worn like mine and the grease is dark because it is carbon filled and now conductive. When I clean one like that I am really just cleaning off the darker grease, and it has worked every time when one is hunting back and forth for position. To my other point I have work around dc motors for over 25 years and we let carbon and copper glide together and the carbon is the lubricant. That is why I am not sure if the grease was meant to be on there or if it comes from the gears?
Although I am very familiar with protective non-conductive grease, it's not a problem unless the carbon dust from track wear builds up and it's conductive! Mine lasted about 6 months after cleaning well so I had a replacement on hand before it started hunting again. If course the grease that was "from the gears" had gotten on it even though I had cleaned the track well 6 months earlier.
Very nice. I would also add that I bought a replacement unit that quit after a year, and it used the rheostat-on-circuit-board method like your original (though my Riviera OE unit had the discrete pot...) When I opened it up, it turned out that the only problem was that they had plopped so much grease in the case that the wipers on the back of the big gear were being isolated. Took out most of the grease & cleaned the traces, and it worked fine again when I plugged it back in.
Excellent video. Very well done and informative. I wish all how to videos were as clear and clean 👍
Thank you so so much for your easy to follow video. I just changed my actuator out on my 04 grand prix and heat started working asap!
Good dope right here!! These videos explain why the things go haywire if they're stroked while disconnected like my 96 C3500 was. I centered the pot, tossed a little fresh grease on the gears and presto - The air goes where the switch says it should go! Thanks so much for the info!!
I got a BRAND NEW actuator, SK604100, from Rock auto. Didn't get a chance to put it on there til after 30 days- they won't take a return. Found your vid and it inspired me to look at that pot. I did, and it had a LEAD UNSOLDERED! BRAND NEW! You are THE MAN! MAGA from TX.
Great job, thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed My new vid might be of some interest. Tried to link it here but it seems to have been tossed out. It's on r u m b l e under 'Manipulating a HVAC actuator to make it work'
Bought the blend door and mode door actuator for my 2000 Pontiac Montana when I was getting clicks. Blend door turned out to be fine. The clicks were from the fresh/recirculate mode door actuator where one of the gears was cracked. It will settle and won’t click depending on your mode selection. Are you sure the fresh/recirculate mode actuator wasn’t what caused your clicks?
That said, the instructions said not to connect/disconnect with the key in place so that it will not skip that homing process that happens every time you turn the vehicle on.
Thank you! This was HIGHLY informative. Ordered a replacement tonight for my 2005 Buick LeSabre, essentially the same part. I went aftermarket on purpose since obviously the factory part failed. Maybe a different design will hold up better.
Great video. I have same actuator on my 04 Tahoe. It drives to full hot always. I bought a Amazon replacement and it didn't fix it. I suspect a bad part. Now I'm going to try open the original and test it.
Hey, i just joined this channel. So much knowledge. Thanks a lot! I got no heat in my car and uninstalled my blend door actuators. After opening them i tested the DC motors with a 9 V battery. One of them only turned for 180° and the other around 45° top. They should normally just spin like any DC motor would right?
They should unless it is hitting a hard stop limit in the gear train. With just the motor out, I would have thought it would just spin freely. Unless some use stepper type motors.
Got the same cheap replacement. Mine went out of range as soon as I started the car. Now it won't go back. The manufacturer is telling me it's because I plugged it in and started the car without it installed on the spindle. They're sending me a FREE replacement.
Actuator on my 05 Silverado fails to relearn. Continues hunting in hot or cold position. I suspect a dirty or defective actuator. Will repost when solved. Great video
I had the same problem - solved rumble.com/vdqs0v-manipulating-a-hvac-actuator-to-make-it-work.html
Thank you very much for your video, i was able to go right to the task at hand and fix it. I will be one of your followers
So glad it helped, thanks for your comment!
I bought one from Amazon and I will keep and fix the old one as described herein
Thank you for taking the time to make this video! Brilliant. I just wish I'd seen it before buying a replacement actuator (that displayed the same behavior as the one in your video)! Amazing. Well done, Sir and thank you!
Michael Jackson, Thanks for your comment Sir!
From one Georgia boy to another thanks it works
Great ! Ok so I purchased brand new AC door, put it in, and it goes all the way to the one end - and recoils about 1/4 way back. Never stays all the way in full cold or hot. It is brand new unit. I called the store I bought it from, they tell me it is "plug 'n' play" device. Any suggestion ?
The calibration procedure is all I would know to try on this after install if it doesn't work properly.
once a new actuator is installed you must pull hvac eac 10 amp fuse, leave out 10 minutes, reinstall start engine turn on AC let the motor run a few minutes, it will got through the split, mid defrost modes, when it is done, shut of engine. wait 2 minutes, restart engine, turn on AC should work fine, the ECU will self calibrate the actuator. Google your procedure depending on split controlled or auto AC, before you fuddle around needlessly
I have no power to the plug ok with the old one but after installed the new one the plug has no power. would you help me Thanks.
Great video. Thank you for posting it. I have a 95 Buick riviera that uses the same actuator. I’ve cleaned up the one on it and it works sometimes but not always. Has anyone reading this tried this calibration on a different GM Vehicle? Thanks again and thanks in advance.
Very Very Good Video..Like the way you explained it..Thank You!!!
It def was that actuator,although it takes a minute to get to,because of the awkwardness of the screws,I haven't replaced my actuator yet but I did turn it from the bottom and opened it up by hand,my heat in the front automatically came on,thanks for the great info,I replaced thermostat for nothing
kingknightable , Glad it helped and thanks for your comment. And hey now you have a brand new t-stay also! : )
have a '94 Silverado, had a '95 GMC, both went bad, gear split. this is an '04?? Can't believe they didn't fix these issues within that amount of time. very common, not easy to get to to replace, not cheap either
Awesome..a lot of good info, thank you
Ive come across your video and im having the same problem with my 2004 sierra with the same actuator as the one you bought with it going to far but it will not always go back the other direction when move the drivers side heat control. I pulled the fuse and did recalibrate it the first time everything was recalibrating (could hear it) I waited 10 mins turned on truck and It still giving me just hot on drivers and cold on passenger side. I bought another actuator ( same exact one) thinking something is wrong with the first one. Still having the same problem with that one. I’m completely stumped and don’t know what else to do or what the problem could be. Any ideas you could give me?
That is what I did to get mine recalibrated. I no longer have that truck, but it worked after that for quite some time. I don't know how well the cheaper ones will hold up long term, but it's odd you are having issues with 2 of them. It does cross over to the same GMC p/n correct?
@@ThriftyToolShed yes it does.
After I recalibrated it I turn on the truck it goes from cold to hot stays on hot when it should be on cold, then I turn off the truck turn it back on it goes back to cold and then right back to hot and will not go back to cold.
Sounds weird,
I found this also for steps on recalibrating. Since I have not done this in over 5 years.
sparkys-answers.com/2011/08/hvac-actuator-recalibration-procedure.html
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you!
Very thorough. Thanks so much for this vid.
Jim Marchman, Thanks for your comment.
What does this control? What symptoms did you have for you to know this was bad?
My original actuator was "hunting" or constantly moving back and forth you could hear it as well as the temperature was not correct, blowing warm even on cool.
Thank you for sharing your experience with us! You have helped me !!!!
DaveSender66 , Glad it helped, thanks for your comment!
Typical Engineering Failure. Remember days of cables guys. My 70 GT 37..For those of you it was a Pontiac Tempest with400 Cid Ram Air. 345HP. Cables where great. You move a slider that had a cable. Heat, Defrost, and you blended the Temperature anywhere you wanted it to be. all this other shit is pure nightmare. My blower stooped it is the fan relay. more crap to take apart.
Good video. But dude. You get what you pay for.
Yes, I remember those good old days. Levers pulling on cables never gave me any trouble. I had a newer style from GM that had a lever, but it switch vacuum signals through a complex manifold/switch. After many years the plastic wore so much, there were vacuum leaks in the multiplexor/switcher that it had to be replaced. Forgive me for not knowing the correct name for the vacuum control brain. Never had a problem with the vacuum actuator.
Thanks, great guide on how to do this!
SheepdogX, awesome, thanks for your comment!
my 2005 chevy suburban does not change from hot to cold on the driver side it is hot all the time and on the passenger side if it changes
Do the recalibration
@@odiarroyo6144 how do recalibration?
You probly made it go out of alignment on your own you are not supposed to turn those on and power them up until they are hooked to the bland door
Thanks, but it was hooked to blend door first!
Good job brother
How much the peace?
cut the boot guard w cut off wheel easier access to screws,popped open,has no little green gear,seemed to be out of sync,...recentered reinstalled all good 05 gmc sierra 6.6 2500,...recalibrating wasnt working for me ,anyhow its fixed for now little super glue on the clamshells,keeps it tight,...i had just replaced batteries(diesel) when it got outa sync
There is no calibration. It's a continuous rotational motor , forward and reverse. All you need do is make sure the replacement motor shaft is in the same rotational position of the original motor. That can be done on the test bench , simply with a 9 volt radio battery and two jumper wires, utilizing a small protractor. Since the shaft is not keyed , you can get it put of position by 180 * and still get it right.
There is a blend door actuator calibration procedure that requires pulling the fuse and an engine timed on-off sequence. Google it.
Cosimo Kramarawicz, you are incorrect!
You are incorrect. Advanced obd scanners have a relearn option that uses the ECU to reset the actuators. His procedure is a workaround to not having a scanner.
Cosimo Kramarawicz yeah this video will show you ua-cam.com/video/vWBGKfl7k24/v-deo.html
@@ThriftyToolShed I just replace them & they work. They actuators have stoppers in them(at least the mode door one does). Never had a issue. My old one wouldn’t switch to defrost because the gear was cracked.
After taking my actuator apart, I think the manufacturer purposely put a dollop of grease on those copper fingers that ride on the inductors looking track contacts
Dielectric grease is good for electrical contacts.
Before attempt try antioxidant on the connector
Connector is never been an issue on mine, almost always the on board variable resistor for feedback as mentioned. Even though the grease is most likely supposed to be there, once the wear on the resistor turns into powder and mixes with the lube, it's got to go. Causes feedback issues.
@@ThriftyToolShed
Okay I will go with that; One of the mount screws I think is hard to get to; My shop has an extensive ¼" drive collection • do you know the socket size and if it is metric or SAE?
At around 15:57 I mention that mine are 5.5mm or 7/32 and a small thumb rachet is very helpful.
@@ThriftyToolShed
Okay noted;
Thank you;
Shayzuskeyrist! You gotta find a better place to get your parts than e-bay
Believe it or not I even know how to search and find parts on my own. I think it's places called dealerships, maybe RockAuto and maybe at least 1 other place in the world to get parts they are so rare...
Not like we have autoparts store on every street corner or anything.
I actually did this for video purposes. I recorded it myself also...
Stupid electronics! What is wrong with cables ? like on my old 72 GM truck. Repair shop charged me $500. to fix this on my 2003 GMC.
Wow!
They raked your yard
Passenger side buddy not drivers side. Doye
What does an engineer say to the basic stuff and not designed garbage
After taking my actuator apart, I think the manufacturer purposely put a dollop of grease on those copper fingers that ride on the inductors looking track contacts
joerossi43 , it's typically a resistive track alot like a potentiometer. I had luck twice with mine after cleaning the gear grease off the tracks, but maybe they do? Anyone else out there seen the same thing?
@@ThriftyToolShed It's counter-intuitive, but I've seen dielectric grease applied to the microphone jacks inside a Public Address system. The grease eliminates the cracks and pops when the cord is wiggled. I know the volume controls on an old radio were potentiometers with a wiper, and if they got "scratchy," the fix was some type of aerisol cleaner.
@@birdwing98 Yes I totally agree, I have seen it and I have used it.I believe it is when the carbon track gets worn like mine and the grease is dark because it is carbon filled and now conductive. When I clean one like that I am really just cleaning off the darker grease, and it has worked every time when one is hunting back and forth for position. To my other point I have work around dc motors for over 25 years and we let carbon and copper glide together and the carbon is the lubricant. That is why I am not sure if the grease was meant to be on there or if it comes from the gears?
@@ThriftyToolShed The dielectric grease is not on there as a gear lubricant, it is there to protect the electrical connection.
Although I am very familiar with protective non-conductive grease, it's not a problem unless the carbon dust from track wear builds up and it's conductive! Mine lasted about 6 months after cleaning well so I had a replacement on hand before it started hunting again. If course the grease that was "from the gears" had gotten on it even though I had cleaned the track well 6 months earlier.