Stamped Concrete Masterclass : form, pour, stamp & seal
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- Опубліковано 28 чер 2024
- Learn from Us Online: decorativeconcreteschool.com
Today we are pouring a stamped concrete pad in an ashlar slate pattern that is going to be the floor for a screened porch.
0:00 - Intro
0:07 - Grade the slab
0:30 - Install Rebar
2:56 - Pour Concrete
5:37 - Float and Trowel Concrete
6:34 - Broadcast Color Hardener to Color Concrete
9:18 - Stamp the Concrete
12:40 - Wash the Release Agent
14:48 - Parge the Sides of the Concrete
15:54 - Seal the Stamped Concrete
Concrete Rake / Come-along amzn.to/34yXlnJ
Hand Float amzn.to/2RAto1E
Hand Trowel amzn.to/2y8MchA
Bull Float & Poles amzn.to/3a5k6B8
Concrete Trowel / Fresno amzn.to/2XxRQEA
Padded Concrete Knee Boards amzn.to/3gIKE13
Concrete Sliders amzn.to/3a921lt
Concrete Boots amzn.to/34BLTaZ
Collomix Xo-6 & Mixer Clean collomix.us
Note: we used stamps, sealers & color from Increte Systems. increte.com … but here are some links for similar products on Amazon.
Concrete Stamps amzn.to/3ccFZQe
Concrete Color Hardener amzn.to/34z2vjO
Integral Concrete Color amzn.to/3ewoA7g
Color Release Agent amzn.to/3eiPYFL
Solvent Based Clear Sealer amzn.to/2K96slC
For a full list of all of our favorite tools, visit: www.amazon.com/shop/timdcva
Our podcast, Hacking Concrete: dcva.us/podcast
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Our concrete companies:
decorativeconcreteofvirginia.com
modernpolishedconcrete.com
Contact me:
Tim Seay
c/o Decorative Concrete of Virginia
14719 Wards Rd.
Lynchburg, VA 24502
...or just DM me on Instagram.
Today we are pouring a stamped concrete pad in an ashlar slate pattern that is going to be the floor for a screened porch.
Since this is a porch floor that will have a roof over it we formed it so that the concrete would be flat. We added gravel to the slab and then tied 3/8" rebar while we waited for the concrete truck to arrive.
I ordered 8 yards of concrete and we poured it without adding any color to the truck. Once we got the concrete leveled and floated, we broadcast sun gray color hardener to the surface to give the concrete slab a light gray color. Then we added a secondary gray powdered release agent to the concrete and stamped it with our large ashlar slate concrete stamps.
I came back the next day and stripped the forms and washed all of the color release agent off of the surface. I also sprayed a water/muriatic acid solution on the surface to help me to remove as much release agent as I could.
Once we were done washing the concrete, we mixed up some of the color hardener with water and polymer/resin and applied it to the sides of the concrete slab.
We let the concrete dry overnight and then we applied a solvent based clear sealer on all of the concrete.
DISCLAIMER: The links in this description & mentioned in this video might be affiliate links. If you buy a service or product with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission (no additional charge to you). Thank you for supporting this channel!
#stampedconcrete #decorativeconcret - Навчання та стиль
I love these video because it makes learning easy Thank you
🙌🏻 you’re welcome. Thank you for the encouragement.
Use a mason 6” whisk brush for throwing the release. Works much better than your hand..
Great content!!
Turned out awesome bro.
Thank you!
I love your video, I also learnt a lot in it...
Good job guys👍
Thanks!
Nice! Only thing I would do on the FINISH-work, is during the plastering of the sides -- I would have scored a horizontal line about 1/2 down and hand-etched vertical lines from the top stone edges to the half-way line (to give the appearance of stone continuation from the side), then staggering random vertical lines from the 1/2 point to the bottom grade. It would not have taken much time and would add to the ILLUSION.
Thanks! I agree with you… but this floor was for a screened porch that was going to have walls built around the outside.
They just wanted a solid color since you weren’t going to be able to see the floor from outside.
Nice work. Looks good guys. It always amazes me how much filming you do throughout the projects. Always documenting that process. Well done 👍🏼 very informative video
Thanks Nathan! The filming is tedious.... It drives my employees crazy waiting on me to set up cameras. Ha.
@@TimDCVA haha 😂 mine don’t complain - they probably like the slower pace during filming days 🤷🏼♂️
It's like the same guy that taught u, taught me lol. I can tell u guys know what u r doing, color turned out really nice, u guys ever use ez tique? Or permatique?
Haha.
We went to Increte in Florida to learn in 2001. How’d you learn?
I’ve used Increte liquid release + antiquing agent a few times… I just think the powder is easier and looks better. Which do you prefer?
Looks awesome Tim. I use Dawn soap instead of acid to remove the release. It works just as good and you don't have to neutralize
We should stamp together some day!
Thanks Mike!
I saw that in one of your videos the other day. I plan on trying it the next time we stamp one. 👍🏻
I would love to do a project with you one day. I’ve been wanting to bring my family up to Maine to visit anyways.
I use trisodium phosphate, any opinion on that vs acid or dish soap?
I’ve never tried that before.
I still need to try Mike’s method… it would be nice to not have to worry about the hazards that come along with using acid.
Yeah definitely, thank you!
What u talked about!
Can you email me? tim@decorativeconcreteofvirginia.com
Thank you for such a very cool and helpful video.What brand sealer do you use? I didn't know you can seal concrete that soon ( at the 3rd day) .... All the sealers I have seen have a label that says that concrete should be cured for at least 30 days. If you don't mind I would like some advice, please and Thank you.
Thanks for the details in the video. Very informative. What is the name of the resin product you used for mixing the slurry?
Increte systems spray deck resin. They don’t make it any more. Any bonding agent should work.
U wana do that?
Also did you emd up removing the strike pin?
We just drove it down with a hammer.
Do you normally saw cut joints to control cracks? Ive watched a couple videos and didnt see the process in your videos. Great work btw
We did hand tool joints in the other stamped concrete video. At the homeowners request, we didn't do any joints in this particular video.
As a rule concrete should be cut at 30 times the thickness. So a 4" slab times 30 is 120". But the cut needs to be 1/4 depth of concrete or its useless.
Are there criteria or conditions for choosing type or color of release... Does it have any effect on the finishing
As a rule the concrete color is lighter and the release color is darker and darker colors burn sealer off quicker
Hey just curious, you said those were new stamps. I thought increte systems doesnt make stamps anymore because they were bought out by euclid. Increte systems were the best stamps in my opinion
Yes they are new Increte stamps. Increte still makes stamps. Not much seems to have changed since being bought out by Euclid. I agree that their stamps are some of the best.
@@TimDCVA thanks for the quick response tim! You have a lot of great videos. Can you buy the stamps directly from increte or do you have to go through a dealer?
What kind of sealer did you use and why solvent based?
We used Increte Clear Seal on this one.
Solvent based sealer is much easier to repair and reseal than water based.
When water based sealer wears out you usually have to strip it all the way off before you can do anything else.
With solvent based sealer, you can re-wet it with solvent (rejuvenator from Deco-Crete) and then just re-seal it.
@@TimDCVA thank you!! Great work!
Do you have a rule of thumb on when it’s stiff enough to stamp?
No not really. We just know it’s ready to stamp shortly after we run the trowel. I will usually take one of the skin stamps and see if I can put any weight on it without it sinking too far.
Looks like your forms bowed pretty Bad....... 👀
Nope. We built a screened porch on top of it and it was perfectly straight & square.
Cant say i approve of your stone base. Not even compacted.