Hi Ryan, as a taildragger pilot in the UK, who has previously flown Jodels and have an RV6. One of the most important things is to have the vertical shaft actually vertical. You risk getting shimmy. I note with it empty nearly vertical, but with you sitting inside it is not. Also, I think the whole tailwheel arm is too long, so you need very strong spring. Maybe design shorter arm, then you can keep lower spring rate. If you keep increasing spring rate making it too ridged, then the stress will be transferred to maybe the mounting to the rear fuselage frame.
A quick google search of tailwheel geometry will show how the vertical axis should be vertical and not laid over as this one is. Very common on tailwheels planes for the spring to straighten out and then the shimmy starts and steering is hard.
@@MissionaryBushPilot I'm also skeptical of using the bolt as a stop in the way that you have. That front part of the mount where the bolt hits would be taking a lot of the load in tension, and would have a significant amount of leverage applied to it when the shock bottoms out, and the bolt hits, The impacts of the bolt could easily cause that area to fatigue & crack, potentially leading to failure. Perhaps in that area the bolt impacts was thicker (in the fore/aft dimension), and the bolt longer, with some kind of sleeved rubber puck (doorstop?) on each side of the bolt, to eliminate the metal on metal impact? Even though impacts would be less likely once you have a stronger spring, you still need to consider what happens in an unexpectedly hard landing. Also, with the geometry used, I suspect you have some reduction in effective spring rate near full compression, as the arc traced by the arms pivot point to the shock mount becomes less linear shock compression, and more sideways to the axis of shock compression
I'm glad no damage was done to the rudder, I hope your new workaround will be a success! Awesome video once again Ryan and I'm with all the others, don't sell it please!
Great video, Ryan! That herd of deer running across the land was incredible! I'm glad you were able to capture it on video. I believe moments like that are a message telling you that you should keep your plane. That airplane has been a blessing to you and your viewers. The work you put into making your videos is very much appreciated. Stay safe!
Glad to see you having fun with your tail wheel experiment. Trial and error is how things used to be done and I'm sure you'll eventually get a good design that's safe. Also glad to see the helpful comments you're receiving.
I think you have the bent part upside down. The way you have it installed, with a negative camber, it is easier to fail. Better turn it over with a positive camber. This will give you much more long-term strength. The wheel assembly really looks good. Well done. All the very best from Johannesburg, South Africa!!
Ryan, I (Retired Multi Discipline Engineer, Raytheon Technologies, 🙂) would have looked at making the curved frame piece out of 7075 not 6061. 6061 is about half the strength of 7075 hence less forgiving in shock applications. I perceive your notion was to give it a bit of flex but 6061 would tend to stay flexed, more so with a quick, hard impact. I also think you are heading in the right direction with your spring/air shock approach.
I'm sorry your tail wheel got damaged already but at the same time glad like you said it didn't hurt the rudder. I have faith you'll get it fixed right up and it'll be better than ever. Thanks for taking the time to bring us along Ryan.
This is by the most interesting aviation channel I've found. While I like watching Jimmy fail and the resurrections of old airplanes, and the step by step analysis from Dan, and the stories of different things from 74 gear, nothing beats some bush flying in the Kodiak or the little experimental. Great job Ryan!!
Hey Ryan I would enjoy meeting you and talking about your missionary experience and training. And more testimony thank you for this time I really enjoy these blogs videos you rock brother
Looks promising! There's quite a bit of leverage on the the tail wheel assembly. Perhaps a rubber bottom-out stop, rather than metal on metal would help, along with a stiffer support arm?
Ryan, don't break yer shtuff. I worked as an aeromech for over 30 years.When in doubt...ask. Ask someone who can tell you if your tailwheel is structurally feasible. Mike and Mark Patey are the perfect guru source for the knowledge that you seek. I love you. Happy knowledge seeking!
Ryan, if you sell 24KB you will regret it forever. So the issue to deal with is how to make sure she doesn't sit and rot unused for years while you are in PNG. Your focus should be on finding someone you trust to fly her for an hour or two every couple of months. Then your baby will be good to go when you return! Best of luck!
Hey Ryan! Big fan of your channel & flying journey. Agreed, please don’t sell the kit fox! I’m not far from you in New Mexico and getting into off airport flying. I own a T182T as my primary ride as well as two 172SPs that I lease out. I can store your plane for you at KABQ or KAEG free of charge and fly it lightly/keep it up to annuals etc. Ping me if you want to discuss further. In any case - blue skies! Can’t wait to see the next video!
What you saw running in the desert are Pronghorn (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pronghorn) not deer. Love the videos, I've been following you for a couple of years now, keep up the great work.
Store the airplane. You will always regret selling it, especially if you spent the time to make it your own. Returning it to flying condition after being stored, is far less work and expense than buying a new one. Cheers from Winnipeg.
keep the plane please :) There's really not a lot of good Kitfox content creators other than Trent Palmer. You are really the only other person with regular content so you should find a way to keep the plane while you are gone.
I had a 1 leaf tailwheel on my Kitfox and it broke one day as soon as I got in the plane, it hit the rudder but no damage to the rudder because I was not moving. I like the 3 leaf one also from Kifox because in case of failure it will not damage your rudder. Now I have the T3 for the same reason, because of the low possibilities of hurting the rudder in case of failure. After my experience, any tailwheel that has a good potential to damage the rudder, it's not an option for me. I am not criticizing your design, instead giving feedback on what I look for in a tailwheel from the consumer perspective.
Preloading the spring doesn't increase spring rate, check with the manufacturer or local bike shop for proper preload of coil spring shocks. The massive preload you are using will lead to failures. What you want to do is get the suspension operating within the shock travel and only occasionally coming up against the bottom out bumper. Hard bottoming bends and breaks stuff! Love Your Videos.
I agree with the comments: shorter arm then no need to increase spring pressure, which in turn will just bend the now weak spot further. Also agree with the vertical piece welded along the bend. It's like the railway track principle. Now seeing the video of the tail wheel you can see when it hits a rock it's like getting hit with a lump hammer. It should show up in the paint at the bend. Compression on top, even more stretching on the bottom. Good luck with, good to follow.
Don't sell the Kitfox. If I were you, I would find someone who was willing to keep it for you and fly it as well as maintain it so that it will not deteriorate while you are gone. Just a thought. Keep up the very good work you do
Thanks for a great adventure...I admire your commitment to missionary work, as you said not many people have that desire. Like your tail wheel design...the arm looks like might be exerting too much leverage on the assembly. Looking forward to your next adventure.
Ryan, the video was awesome and hopefully the new height between tail and tail wheel will correlate to just new spring and compression/tension. John Ball’s comment though should be seriously considered too.
Test flying a home brew tailwheel shock assembly designed by a guy that repeatedly says he doesn’t know what he’s doing. Definitely moving from Trent territory toward Jonas territory! Keep the content coming. I’ll be here for the carnage. The shock loads on the head of that bolt are scary to think about. That might be the worst designed bump stop out there…
Ryan, use nitrogen rather than air, the shock will perform better and won't be subject to temperature changes like air is. It's what I use in my Monster Shocks front and rear in my JA Highlander.
The last video i thought that arm looked a bit thin but on this video the camera angle was much better and its definitely too thin; 6061 does bend a fair bit before it snaps; another 1/4" of depth will probably be enough. PM me if you want help designing mechanical stuff... Spring loads will do well to use an airbag spring rather than coil for better tuning use on different aircraft
As my granddad put it, the biggest problem with flying over Oklahoma and Kansas before GPS was having to drop down low enough to read the road signs and figure out where you are to even guess what flaky NDB to listen for.
As a long term td pilot, the moment on the assembly looks too long and therefore puts excessive load on the spring and perhaps on the mount to the airframe itself. I don’t think change the spring tension will change that load factor on the airframe. Is it possible to adjust the moment to be more upright and forward to reduce this loading? I’m sure you’ve checked the load factor of the current design on the airframe.
Another beautiful day for flying!! (((Ryan))) I can never get enough of that gorgeous sky and cloud formations. The mountains are gorgeous too. Bummer abot the tailwheel, but I have no doubt with your passion and persistance, you will get it right soon. With regards to what to do with your plane. I'm kind of sad to know you would even consider getting rid of it. You have put so much of yourself into it to get it to where it is right now, and you have really had some fun adventures recently with it, I would hate to see that end. If it was my plane I would store it and if you have someone you really trust to run it or take it out, even better!!! I thInk it would be wondeful to meet some of the people who support you here, but I wouldn't exclude anyone. If people support you, whether it be financially, with prayer, or just watching your videos, these are your people. They all help your numbers here on UA-cam, but that's just my two cents. Realize not everyone is going to have the means to come to this because alot of folks don't live in or near Arizona. I would say pray on it, and ask for discernment. Thanks again for another great video. Safe and happy travels! R.A. ❤️
If you sell it, pre-order a kit before you get back. I would love to see you build exactly what you want. Maybe even get an s21 with build assist. If your not sure about building, keep what you have. I love the desert, but live in the high mountains. The desert is only a few miles away to enjoy in the winter. It's the perfect combination!
Sorry for multiple comments, but I had an idea for your tailwheel. Maybe on version 2 it would be worth designing a method to lock the height in place so it's a solid mount. No suspension. Like in the high position, so if the spring breaks or something else happens, you can install a locking pin into a hole (might need to lift the rear slightly) so it bypasses the spring setup and sets the rear gear as high as possible. It would be a little more bouncy but it will get you home and the gear wont contact the rudder? What do you think?
Storing it wouldn’t be the worst idea. The Rotax 912uls maintenance manual states the all rubber (hoses, fuel pump, carb seals etc) must be replaced every 5 years anyway. Your engine may be close to that now. It just depends on when/if the previous owner had it done. It’s a roughly 2 day job for for a Rotax mechanic. I believe the manual also has a procedure to prepare the engine for long term storage.If possible you could always get somebody to run the motor periodically just to keep things moving.
Nice video -- thanks for uploading -- maybe you can lease it out to someone or an aviation club or something -- that way it stays flying and maintained and ready for your return!
the abuse that tail wheel takes on the rocks is amazing. Seeing the title and just waiting for something to break is cringey knowing its going to happen. Thanks for the fun!
I agree with you about flying tailwheel. I decided to get the Pacer because I didn't ever want to be complacent. 172s and Warriors I could fly in my sleep. I always have to be on my best game when flying the Pacer.
Hi Ryann really enjoy your videos well done. In 1986 l sold my 90 HP Aeronca Champ for $6700.00 Can. used the 😢money to get a helicopter licence spent the next 30 years flying helicopters my kids only remembering flying with there dad when they were really young finely was able to buy back a Piper Vagabond have had some fun with it. Kitfox won’t wear out if stored out of the sun and away from the mice. GOD BLESS. Gerald. ( Northern Neighbour)
Using 7075 on the arm will provide a stronger component however 6061 has much better corrosion properties after protective coatings get smashed by rocks and everything else.
are you worried about anything getting stuck in the tailwheel forks? Seems like theres very little clearance between the tailwheel and the forks. If the wheel squishes at all or something gets picked up, could cause the wheel to lock up.
Well looks interesting, but there is a reason us AME's (Aircraft Maintenance Engineer's) go to school. The bolts you are using from local hardware store are Not Aircraft Grade 8 bolts! aircraft grade 8 bolts are hardened ALL THE WAY THROUGH, your hardware store bolts are only Surface Hardened. the more you strengthen the other parts the more you will transfer the load to the bolts which will shear. I really would recommend Aircraft Spruce to source replacement bolts before you damage your aircraft. AME over 30 years experience in Canada
Keep the plane. Ship it to PNG and make awesome STOL videos with it on PNG runways :D That way when I'm playing MSFS and watching you I can live vicariously haha
Please, please, please, get together with Jonas Marcinko. He's a great pilot and aircraft builder. He also has a great youtube channel. He needs another KitFox. He sold his KitFox to raise some cash and now he's stuck with many project planes that aren't flying. You can probably work out some kind of deal where your plane with be maintained and flown a little while you still have a great plane when you return.
Antelope again. Yes, looking at your camera for the tail wheel you could definitely see some fairly large rocks that could challenge your tail wheel. If you had a monitor inside, you could see how it is doing if you don't mind a distraction. When your tail wheel sagged the tail wheel camera picked up on some larger rocks it was slamming into.
If you want, fly it to Florida, I’ll take care of it and get my ppl and it will be ready to fly when you get back. I’ll cover the annuals and maintenance
As experienced a pilot you are with very good attention to detail I was surprised how this went. No testing of an unproven design at all even when it did not lay as you had planned it. Buying hardware from the local hardware store was the icing on that. Definitely took my impression of you down a few notches. There is a lesson here I think you failed to grasp.
@20:00 those are pronghorn, they are goats not deer😂. Ever thought of just renting your plane out while you’re in PNG. That’s a way of keeping it flying instead of setting.
Keep the plane, have some one you trust take care of it and fly it a few times a month. When returning to Arizona you'll have your plane to have fun with. After investing and modifying it to your likes you wouldn't want to get rid of it. You'll regret doing so...
Main swing arm likely bent. Should use more efficient I beam profile (taller on the vertical axis) for main arm. Definitely this long lever which includes the length from the wheel ground contact point up to the main bracket pivot point as compared to the lever length of the spring/shock arm length exceeds 3 to 1 ratio. Is more like 10 or 12-1 ratio but that's only when the spring/shock arm is 90 degrees to the shock element. Also, using a solid metal to metal bump stop in the case of the bolt hitting the side plates at max compression will result in very high loads during bolt contact. Better to use an elastomeric bump stop as is found in automotive suspensions. You should consider doing away with metallic springs and perhaps even the hydraulic damper and go full elastomeric springs which would also do away with a bump stop as the spring acts for both main spring power and the bump stop as it compresses. I think Mooney uses elastomeric elements not to mention the red/white musketeer off your parked nose. There just so happens to be a company in your neighborhood whom can custom mold elastomeric spring elements but you might find off the shelf polyurethane die springs will work. In order to keep the wheel pivot axis vertical during arm travel you need another horizontal pivot point and a parallel link. Seems like I've seen a tail wheel suspension already designed like that. Gas spring shock? works until the seals blow out......... While the machined billet tail wheels suspension you created has some sex appeal, you might find a nice long tapered composite spring to be lighter, more streamlined and just as effective. All in all a though a decent first effort............
Would like to *see* the loading and unloading and/or your other work in conjunction with flight trips … Rent this plain out for training or tours etc. while on missions rather than selling it.
Grade 8 hardware is stronger for tension. Not sure how much difference it makes in sheer strength. As always, always look forward to your videos, Ryan.
This must be a perfect time for flying the SW desert areas, while still cool. I remember flying from San Diego to Southern Colorado in a 182 many years ago. Felt like the plane & I were collectively a giant ping pong ball in a professional tournament- vertically. Turbulence was the worst I ever experienced. Most density altitude too when we gassed up at Grand Canyon. Nice warm day. Cumulous turning into cumulonimbus. Such is the inland West when it gets warm.
@@MissionaryBushPilot I'm not too familiar with American screw grades, but back as a mechanic we learnt that only ISO grade 12.9 and above can handle shear loads, which grade 8 is slightly bellow
I'm not sure if you wanted to just meet people who watch your channel, sell a certain amount of tickets, have a lottery or something else to limit the number of people who would show up. Maybe you could just randomly pick people and not sell any tickets but just give the tickets away. Then if it goes well you might even be able to do more if you have the time so that you can meet more of your subs. The only reason that I mentioned selling tickets was to help pay for the food. It's just a thought and I'm sure that others will have better ideas than me.
Get an additional qualified/experienced opinion re your mod. ?#1 Fatigue at the mount point (airframe). ?#2 Any potential effects on your rudder mount/bearing or adjacent airframe over time.
Would flying to PNG be viable? Maybe leave earlier and have multiple holidays along the way - extended holidays if weather is bad. Family would have to fly separately unless you did multiple trips back and forth, which might not be viable though you'd (we'd) see a lot more of the world. Been enjoying the videos so thanks for those, I have the Kodiak for XPlane and will buy your flight training plan when I eventually get proper flight sim hardware. Keep up the good work :)
Sounds like a fun idea, but he'd have to fly all the way through Alaska, Russia, Japan, Philippines, and down through Indonesia... or make arrangements with the US Navy to do a couple carrier landings, crossing the Pacific more directly. 😛 Also, I don't think PNG allows experimental aircraft in their airspace at least without them certifying their airworthiness first. One thing nice about the USA, is, there's more leeway given to experimental aircraft than most countries.
Would it be better to always have either a second plane and ET rated pilot along or do initial testing near a facility with ETs and mechanical assistance? Also, as suggested below, bolt heads as a hard stop in a safety critical design run the risk of shearing the head off especially if threads continue up close to the head. How far could the wheel travel then? Enough to tear the rudder lose? YOU could fly without a rudder but what if that flops around and jams or damages the elevator? Even that would be survivable if you were landing but now and then I see you do touch and go. I am a PE but not mechanical so you need to have a review by a PE Aeronautical who watches this channel perhaps. Thanks, great and interesting stuff. God bless.
When you increased the spring pressure, you lost arm travel and ended up with coil bind. Since you lost travel, the arm bent. Higher spring pressure should cure the problem.
That hard stop consisting of the clearance hole for the the bolt head and nut has to go. If the tail wheel cops a decent smack, forcing the bolt and head to wedge that narrow web pair apart, pop through, hang up and foul the rudder as you do a go around, it will not end well. Desirably there should be a secondary hard stop bearing down towards the rear swingarm to prevent anything going near the rudder ever unless the fuselage deforms first. The original Kitfox design is not inspiring with parts much too close to the rudder. The pivot axis you are already aware of. It will be imposing greater torsional loads upon the mounting points and the rear structure the way it is. The original leaf spring arrangement does have a little lateral compliance when the tailwheel strikes something in a swing around. There is also something to be said for ruggedly fairing the support for the tail wheel axle shaft with a forward taper so that the tyre never strikes against an object higher than the axle centre. A faired or shallowly inclined axle support (fork) will sled over an object and protect the front of the tyre from slamming up hard.
I think the 'bent' part of the frame needs a vertical brace welded along its length to prevent further bending. As it stands at the moment that part of the design is still the weakest link.
How about take the plane with you to PNG? Store it into a container, let it be delivered to PNG and fly there in your spare time! Maybe there is some space left in the hangars of ethnos360...
So .......... talk to Jimmy of Jimmy's world ......... he may be able to help you with what to do with that airplane while you're gone. OR ....... find a way to ship it to PNG ....... maybe?
I vote for you selling the plane before you go. My reasoning is that storing the plane for an extended time is all risk. These risks include the expense of replacing and refurbishing components on return and the risk of damage to the plane if someone else flies it. In addition, when you return, you might want to try a different plane, so selling the Kitfox after being in storage will not be as attractive to a potential buyer as selling it before you leave. Best of luck in your decision and thank you for this great channel!
Mount another tailwheel assembly on something so kids can test it to failure! On paper, print a profile of the curved rearmost piece to see if it's bent.
The first 1,000 people to use the link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/missionarybushpilot0123
I wondering how someone could contribute to your cause in PNG .... like maybe a P.O.Box # ...?..
Hi Ryan, as a taildragger pilot in the UK, who has previously flown Jodels and have an RV6. One of the most important things is to have the vertical shaft actually vertical. You risk getting shimmy. I note with it empty nearly vertical, but with you sitting inside it is not. Also, I think the whole tailwheel arm is too long, so you need very strong spring. Maybe design shorter arm, then you can keep lower spring rate. If you keep increasing spring rate making it too ridged, then the stress will be transferred to maybe the mounting to the rear fuselage frame.
👍
A quick google search of tailwheel geometry will show how the vertical axis should be vertical and not laid over as this one is. Very common on tailwheels planes for the spring to straighten out and then the shimmy starts and steering is hard.
Yes, planning on shortening the bar and putting some sag into the design so the pin is vertical
@@MissionaryBushPilot I'm also skeptical of using the bolt as a stop in the way that you have. That front part of the mount where the bolt hits would be taking a lot of the load in tension, and would have a significant amount of leverage applied to it when the shock bottoms out, and the bolt hits, The impacts of the bolt could easily cause that area to fatigue & crack, potentially leading to failure.
Perhaps in that area the bolt impacts was thicker (in the fore/aft dimension), and the bolt longer, with some kind of sleeved rubber puck (doorstop?) on each side of the bolt, to eliminate the metal on metal impact?
Even though impacts would be less likely once you have a stronger spring, you still need to consider what happens in an unexpectedly hard landing.
Also, with the geometry used, I suspect you have some reduction in effective spring rate near full compression, as the arc traced by the arms pivot point to the shock mount becomes less linear shock compression, and more sideways to the axis of shock compression
@@MissionaryBushPilot send it to me, I’ll cut it down and weld it back up for ya
I'm glad no damage was done to the rudder, I hope your new workaround will be a success! Awesome video once again Ryan and I'm with all the others, don't sell it please!
Great video, Ryan! That herd of deer running across the land was incredible! I'm glad you were able to capture it on video. I believe moments like that are a message telling you that you should keep your plane. That airplane has been a blessing to you and your viewers. The work you put into making your videos is very much appreciated. Stay safe!
Awesome you make these vids honestly chronicling the trial and error process. That’s why I watch. Authentic!
Glad to see you having fun with your tail wheel experiment. Trial and error is how things used to be done and I'm sure you'll eventually get a good design that's safe. Also glad to see the helpful comments you're receiving.
I think you have the bent part upside down. The way you have it installed, with a negative camber, it is easier to fail. Better turn it over with a positive camber. This will give you much more long-term strength.
The wheel assembly really looks good. Well done. All the very best from Johannesburg, South Africa!!
Hey that's a great idea. I'll have to completely redesign it
Ryan, I (Retired Multi Discipline Engineer, Raytheon Technologies, 🙂) would have looked at making the curved frame piece out of 7075 not 6061. 6061 is about half the strength of 7075 hence less forgiving in shock applications. I perceive your notion was to give it a bit of flex but 6061 would tend to stay flexed, more so with a quick, hard impact. I also think you are heading in the right direction with your spring/air shock approach.
Yeah, I'm going to redesign the rear bar with 7075, make it shorter and thicker too.
I'm sorry your tail wheel got damaged already but at the same time glad like you said it didn't hurt the rudder. I have faith you'll get it fixed right up and it'll be better than ever. Thanks for taking the time to bring us along Ryan.
Another great video....thanks for all the hard work you put into making these!
This is by the most interesting aviation channel I've found. While I like watching Jimmy fail and the resurrections of old airplanes, and the step by step analysis from Dan, and the stories of different things from 74 gear, nothing beats some bush flying in the Kodiak or the little experimental. Great job Ryan!!
Ha ha! Thought you were going to quote Doc from Back To The Future. "Where we're going, we don't need roads.” Great video Ryan!
One of my top favourite BTTF quotes! 😍
Hey Ryan I would enjoy meeting you and talking about your missionary experience and training. And more testimony thank you for this time I really enjoy these blogs videos you rock brother
Looks promising! There's quite a bit of leverage on the the tail wheel assembly. Perhaps a rubber bottom-out stop, rather than metal on metal would help, along with a stiffer support arm?
"...Super green, rainy, cloudy...wet, cold." Check out the central Oregon coast in the winter time, your daughter would be in heaven!
Ryan, don't break yer shtuff. I worked as an aeromech for over 30 years.When in doubt...ask. Ask someone who can tell you if your tailwheel is structurally feasible. Mike and Mark Patey are the perfect guru source for the knowledge that you seek. I love you. Happy knowledge seeking!
Ryan, if you sell 24KB you will regret it forever. So the issue to deal with is how to make sure she doesn't sit and rot unused for years while you are in PNG. Your focus should be on finding someone you trust to fly her for an hour or two every couple of months. Then your baby will be good to go when you return! Best of luck!
Yeah, I'm feeling the same, that I'll just regret it
Agreed on finding someone to fly it, or rent it.
Hey Ryan! Big fan of your channel & flying journey. Agreed, please don’t sell the kit fox!
I’m not far from you in New Mexico and getting into off airport flying. I own a T182T as my primary ride as well as two 172SPs that I lease out. I can store your plane for you at KABQ or KAEG free of charge and fly it lightly/keep it up to annuals etc.
Ping me if you want to discuss further. In any case - blue skies! Can’t wait to see the next video!
What you saw running in the desert are Pronghorn (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pronghorn) not deer. Love the videos, I've been following you for a couple of years now, keep up the great work.
Hi Ryan - you could do a virtual meet-up using MSFS! All your fellow aviation geeks would love that! Love what you do, Brendan
Store the airplane. You will always regret selling it, especially if you spent the time to make it your own. Returning it to flying condition after being stored, is far less work and expense than buying a new one. Cheers from Winnipeg.
That's a good way to look at it
keep the plane please :) There's really not a lot of good Kitfox content creators other than Trent Palmer. You are really the only other person with regular content so you should find a way to keep the plane while you are gone.
I had a 1 leaf tailwheel on my Kitfox and it broke one day as soon as I got in the plane, it hit the rudder but no damage to the rudder because I was not moving. I like the 3 leaf one also from Kifox because in case of failure it will not damage your rudder. Now I have the T3 for the same reason, because of the low possibilities of hurting the rudder in case of failure. After my experience, any tailwheel that has a good potential to damage the rudder, it's not an option for me. I am not criticizing your design, instead giving feedback on what I look for in a tailwheel from the consumer perspective.
Preloading the spring doesn't increase spring rate, check with the manufacturer or local bike shop for proper preload of coil spring shocks. The massive preload you are using will lead to failures. What you want to do is get the suspension operating within the shock travel and only occasionally coming up against the bottom out bumper. Hard bottoming bends and breaks stuff!
Love Your Videos.
Yes I've got stronger ones coming
I really enjoy your flights. Great that you have sorted out the tail wheel, stay safe Bro……..Roger
If that is a MTB shock, you should consider adding volume spacers to adjust the progressive rate and prevent bottoming out vs linear rate.
I agree with the comments: shorter arm then no need to increase spring pressure, which in turn will just bend the now weak spot further. Also agree with the vertical piece welded along the bend. It's like the railway track principle. Now seeing the video of the tail wheel you can see when it hits a rock it's like getting hit with a lump hammer. It should show up in the paint at the bend. Compression on top, even more stretching on the bottom. Good luck with, good to follow.
I’m rooting for you. Taildraggers are great.
Really enjoying this journey thanks for sharing.
Don't sell the Kitfox. If I were you, I would find someone who was willing to keep it for you and fly it as well as maintain it so that it will not deteriorate while you are gone. Just a thought. Keep up the very good work you do
Thanks for a great adventure...I admire your commitment to missionary work, as you said not many people have that desire.
Like your tail wheel design...the arm looks like might be exerting too much leverage on the assembly. Looking forward to your next adventure.
I plan to shorten it
Ryan, the video was awesome and hopefully the new height between tail and tail wheel will correlate to just new spring and compression/tension. John Ball’s comment though should be seriously considered too.
Test flying a home brew tailwheel shock assembly designed by a guy that repeatedly says he doesn’t know what he’s doing. Definitely moving from Trent territory toward Jonas territory! Keep the content coming. I’ll be here for the carnage. The shock loads on the head of that bolt are scary to think about. That might be the worst designed bump stop out there…
Ryan, use nitrogen rather than air, the shock will perform better and won't be subject to temperature changes like air is. It's what I use in my Monster Shocks front and rear in my JA Highlander.
The last video i thought that arm looked a bit thin but on this video the camera angle was much better and its definitely too thin; 6061 does bend a fair bit before it snaps; another 1/4" of depth will probably be enough. PM me if you want help designing mechanical stuff... Spring loads will do well to use an airbag spring rather than coil for better tuning use on different aircraft
this has been your best video ever
As my granddad put it, the biggest problem with flying over Oklahoma and Kansas before GPS was having to drop down low enough to read the road signs and figure out where you are to even guess what flaky NDB to listen for.
As a long term td pilot, the moment on the assembly looks too long and therefore puts excessive load on the spring and perhaps on the mount to the airframe itself. I don’t think change the spring tension will change that load factor on the airframe. Is it possible to adjust the moment to be more upright and forward to reduce this loading? I’m sure you’ve checked the load factor of the current design on the airframe.
Another beautiful day for flying!! (((Ryan))) I can never get enough of that gorgeous sky and cloud formations. The mountains are gorgeous too. Bummer abot the tailwheel, but I have no doubt with your passion and persistance, you will get it right soon. With regards to what to do with your plane. I'm kind of sad to know you would even consider getting rid of it. You have put so much of yourself into it to get it to where it is right now, and you have really had some fun adventures recently with it, I would hate to see that end. If it was my plane I would store it and if you have someone you really trust to run it or take it out, even better!!! I thInk it would be wondeful to meet some of the people who support you here, but I wouldn't exclude anyone. If people support you, whether it be financially, with prayer, or just watching your videos, these are your people. They all help your numbers here on UA-cam, but that's just my two cents. Realize not everyone is going to have the means to come to this because alot of folks don't live in or near Arizona. I would say pray on it, and ask for discernment. Thanks again for another great video. Safe and happy travels! R.A. ❤️
If you sell it, pre-order a kit before you get back. I would love to see you build exactly what you want. Maybe even get an s21 with build assist. If your not sure about building, keep what you have.
I love the desert, but live in the high mountains. The desert is only a few miles away to enjoy in the winter. It's the perfect combination!
Sorry for multiple comments, but I had an idea for your tailwheel. Maybe on version 2 it would be worth designing a method to lock the height in place so it's a solid mount. No suspension. Like in the high position, so if the spring breaks or something else happens, you can install a locking pin into a hole (might need to lift the rear slightly) so it bypasses the spring setup and sets the rear gear as high as possible. It would be a little more bouncy but it will get you home and the gear wont contact the rudder? What do you think?
i thought the same. kind of like in equipment a transport lock but this would be more for mechanical failure you could pick it up and pin it place.
that's actually a good idea. Thanks for sharing!
you need to add another stop so if the spring goes out it won't hit the rudder, good show!
Wish I could come out and visit but so far away for me being in Memphis, but if you find your way out here at some point hit me up.
Storing it wouldn’t be the worst idea. The Rotax 912uls maintenance manual states the all rubber (hoses, fuel pump, carb seals etc) must be replaced every 5 years anyway. Your engine may be close to that now. It just depends on when/if the previous owner had it done. It’s a roughly 2 day job for for a Rotax mechanic. I believe the manual also has a procedure to prepare the engine for long term storage.If possible you could always get somebody to run the motor periodically just to keep things moving.
Nice video -- thanks for uploading -- maybe you can lease it out to someone or an aviation club or something -- that way it stays flying and maintained and ready for your return!
thanks, I really enjoy your efforts
Use the airshock as a fine tuning for the Coil spring [ two stage damping if you like ] .
the abuse that tail wheel takes on the rocks is amazing. Seeing the title and just waiting for something to break is cringey knowing its going to happen. Thanks for the fun!
I'm pretty sure those deer you saw are pronghorn antelopes. Check 'em out on Wiki. Great flight. Thank you for posting.
I agree with you about flying tailwheel. I decided to get the Pacer because I didn't ever want to be complacent. 172s and Warriors I could fly in my sleep. I always have to be on my best game when flying the Pacer.
Hi Ryann really enjoy your videos well done. In 1986 l sold my 90 HP Aeronca Champ for $6700.00 Can. used the 😢money to get a helicopter licence spent the next 30 years flying helicopters my kids only remembering flying with there dad when they were really young finely was able to buy back a Piper Vagabond have had some fun with it. Kitfox won’t wear out if stored out of the sun and away from the mice. GOD BLESS. Gerald. ( Northern Neighbour)
Take a look at a few high-end full-squish mountain bikes. The rear suspension has many different designs.
Using 7075 on the arm will provide a stronger component however 6061 has much better corrosion properties after protective coatings get smashed by rocks and everything else.
are you worried about anything getting stuck in the tailwheel forks? Seems like theres very little clearance between the tailwheel and the forks. If the wheel squishes at all or something gets picked up, could cause the wheel to lock up.
Ferry the Kitfox to PNG and use it there for fun flights 😁
Store it up at Trent Palmer's place in Reno. He's got all sorts of room.
The JABARU in Australia 🇦🇺! I think factory in Bundaberg if you sell in the states !
Ginault watches are great. I own two, one with date and bezel ceramic and one without date and domes crystal :)
yeah I really like mine also
Jonas Marcinko has a channel. He is a bush pilot in Idaho and has experience with KitFox. Maybe you two can work out an arrangement.
Well looks interesting, but there is a reason us AME's (Aircraft Maintenance Engineer's) go to school. The bolts you are using from local hardware store are Not Aircraft Grade 8 bolts! aircraft grade 8 bolts are hardened ALL THE WAY THROUGH, your hardware store bolts are only Surface Hardened. the more you strengthen the other parts the more you will transfer the load to the bolts which will shear. I really would recommend Aircraft Spruce to source replacement bolts before you damage your aircraft. AME over 30 years experience in Canada
Yes I plan to switch them out
Keep it!!!!
Hi Ryan, great video as usual. I have to ask if you plan on following up with your helicopter rating after returning to Papua New Guinea?
Keep the plane. Ship it to PNG and make awesome STOL videos with it on PNG runways :D That way when I'm playing MSFS and watching you I can live vicariously haha
Not enough HP for PNG
@@MissionaryBushPilot that's interesting, thanks for the reply
Please, please, please, get together with Jonas Marcinko. He's a great pilot and aircraft builder. He also has a great youtube channel. He needs another KitFox. He sold his KitFox to raise some cash and now he's stuck with many project planes that aren't flying. You can probably work out some kind of deal where your plane with be maintained and flown a little while you still have a great plane when you return.
Antelope again. Yes, looking at your camera for the tail wheel you could definitely see some fairly large rocks that could challenge your tail wheel. If you had a monitor inside, you could see how it is doing if you don't mind a distraction. When your tail wheel sagged the tail wheel camera picked up on some larger rocks it was slamming into.
If you want, fly it to Florida, I’ll take care of it and get my ppl and it will be ready to fly when you get back. I’ll cover the annuals and maintenance
As experienced a pilot you are with very good attention to detail I was surprised how this went. No testing of an unproven design at all even when it did not lay as you had planned it. Buying hardware from the local hardware store was the icing on that. Definitely took my impression of you down a few notches. There is a lesson here I think you failed to grasp.
@20:00 those are pronghorn, they are goats not deer😂. Ever thought of just renting your plane out while you’re in PNG. That’s a way of keeping it flying instead of setting.
Keep the plane, have some one you trust take care of it and fly it a few times a month. When returning to Arizona you'll have your plane to have fun with. After investing and modifying it to your likes you wouldn't want to get rid of it. You'll regret doing so...
Main swing arm likely bent. Should use more efficient I beam profile (taller on the vertical axis) for main arm. Definitely this long lever which includes the length from the wheel ground contact point up to the main bracket pivot point as compared to the lever length of the spring/shock arm length exceeds 3 to 1 ratio. Is more like 10 or 12-1 ratio but that's only when the spring/shock arm is 90 degrees to the shock element.
Also, using a solid metal to metal bump stop in the case of the bolt hitting the side plates at max compression will result in very high loads during bolt contact. Better to use an elastomeric bump stop as is found in automotive suspensions. You should consider doing away with metallic springs and perhaps even the hydraulic damper and go full elastomeric springs which would also do away with a bump stop as the spring acts for both main spring power and the bump stop as it compresses. I think Mooney uses elastomeric elements not to mention the red/white musketeer off your parked nose. There just so happens to be a company in your neighborhood whom can custom mold elastomeric spring elements but you might find off the shelf polyurethane die springs will work.
In order to keep the wheel pivot axis vertical during arm travel you need another horizontal pivot point and a parallel link. Seems like I've seen a tail wheel suspension already designed like that.
Gas spring shock? works until the seals blow out.........
While the machined billet tail wheels suspension you created has some sex appeal, you might find a nice long tapered composite spring to be lighter, more streamlined and just as effective.
All in all a though a decent first effort............
Would like to *see* the loading and unloading and/or your other work in conjunction with flight trips …
Rent this plain out for training or tours etc. while on missions rather than selling it.
Grade 8 hardware is stronger for tension. Not sure how much difference it makes in sheer strength. As always, always look forward to your videos, Ryan.
This must be a perfect time for flying the SW desert areas, while still cool. I remember flying from San Diego to Southern Colorado in a 182 many years ago. Felt like the plane & I were collectively a giant ping pong ball in a professional tournament- vertically. Turbulence was the worst I ever experienced. Most density altitude too when we gassed up at Grand Canyon. Nice warm day. Cumulous turning into cumulonimbus. Such is the inland West when it gets warm.
Yeah I'm planning on changing it all out
@@MissionaryBushPilot I'm not too familiar with American screw grades, but back as a mechanic we learnt that only ISO grade 12.9 and above can handle shear loads, which grade 8 is slightly bellow
at 20:00, pretty sure what you refer to as deer are in fact, Pronghorn Antelope.
I'm not sure if you wanted to just meet people who watch your channel, sell a certain amount of tickets, have a lottery or something else to limit the number of people who would show up. Maybe you could just randomly pick people and not sell any tickets but just give the tickets away. Then if it goes well you might even be able to do more if you have the time so that you can meet more of your subs. The only reason that I mentioned selling tickets was to help pay for the food. It's just a thought and I'm sure that others will have better ideas than me.
Good idea
Hey Ryan! So was it ultimately just the shock and the spring that broke in that quickly and allowed it to sag?
Captain Ryan, did the spring in the tail wheel house compress?
🌏🇭🇲
5lbs on the tail seems like a lot given the moment. I would be inclined to put it on the scales to see how it changed your CG.
Probably better off selling it since the market is so strong right now.
And when you come back you can upgrade to a Highlander!😉
ha
Get an additional qualified/experienced opinion re your mod. ?#1 Fatigue at the mount point (airframe). ?#2 Any potential effects on your rudder mount/bearing or adjacent airframe over time.
Would flying to PNG be viable? Maybe leave earlier and have multiple holidays along the way - extended holidays if weather is bad. Family would have to fly separately unless you did multiple trips back and forth, which might not be viable though you'd (we'd) see a lot more of the world. Been enjoying the videos so thanks for those, I have the Kodiak for XPlane and will buy your flight training plan when I eventually get proper flight sim hardware. Keep up the good work :)
Sounds like a fun idea, but he'd have to fly all the way through Alaska, Russia, Japan, Philippines, and down through Indonesia... or make arrangements with the US Navy to do a couple carrier landings, crossing the Pacific more directly. 😛 Also, I don't think PNG allows experimental aircraft in their airspace at least without them certifying their airworthiness first. One thing nice about the USA, is, there's more leeway given to experimental aircraft than most countries.
Would it be better to always have either a second plane and ET rated pilot along or do initial testing near a facility with ETs and mechanical assistance? Also, as suggested below, bolt heads as a hard stop in a safety critical design run the risk of shearing the head off especially if threads continue up close to the head. How far could the wheel travel then? Enough to tear the rudder lose? YOU could fly without a rudder but what if that flops around and jams or damages the elevator? Even that would be survivable if you were landing but now and then I see you do touch and go. I am a PE but not mechanical so you need to have a review by a PE Aeronautical who watches this channel perhaps.
Thanks, great and interesting stuff. God bless.
Keep your kit-fox. It’s a investment, that you can enjoy for a lift time.
When you are back in PNG, do you think you need some hours in the Kodiak, to familiarize again, before doing the difficult approaches again?
yeah, Last time I spent about 8 hrs in the simulator, then about 2 in the Kodiak before heading out
When you increased the spring pressure, you lost arm travel and ended up with coil bind. Since you lost travel, the arm bent. Higher spring pressure should cure the problem.
Good morning from Minnesota!! Great episode! Is it an option to ship the plane to PNG??
Not really
As Mike Patey says at the start of his videos.. "Machine it, draft it, build it, break it."
"Back to work! 😁
Keep the plane. It's OK to be a Foster Fail. 😂
That hard stop consisting of the clearance hole for the the bolt head and nut has to go. If the tail wheel cops a decent smack, forcing the bolt and head to wedge that narrow web pair apart, pop through, hang up and foul the rudder as you do a go around, it will not end well. Desirably there should be a secondary hard stop bearing down towards the rear swingarm to prevent anything going near the rudder ever unless the fuselage deforms first. The original Kitfox design is not inspiring with parts much too close to the rudder. The pivot axis you are already aware of. It will be imposing greater torsional loads upon the mounting points and the rear structure the way it is. The original leaf spring arrangement does have a little lateral compliance when the tailwheel strikes something in a swing around. There is also something to be said for ruggedly fairing the support for the tail wheel axle shaft with a forward taper so that the tyre never strikes against an object higher than the axle centre. A faired or shallowly inclined axle support (fork) will sled over an object and protect the front of the tyre from slamming up hard.
Could you entrust it with someone who would fly it while your gone?
Seems like you ought to try the 1500# spring first
Did your son more wait for driver license or pilot license?? Or to early to say?
I think the 'bent' part of the frame needs a vertical brace welded along its length to prevent further bending. As it stands at the moment that part of the design is still the weakest link.
Maybe its the best weak link. Its a big "cheater handle" on the tailwheel mount and fuselage.
Ryan, keep the dadgum kitfox. Store it while you're in PNG. You own an airplane...Did I say 'own?'
I do own it out right
Adventure of a lifetime: Fly the Kitfox there
How about take the plane with you to PNG? Store it into a container, let it be delivered to PNG and fly there in your spare time! Maybe there is some space left in the hangars of ethnos360...
No desire to fly it in PNG
Go see Mike Pattey. He can fix it!
So .......... talk to Jimmy of Jimmy's world ......... he may be able to help you with what to do with that airplane while you're gone. OR ....... find a way to ship it to PNG ....... maybe?
Cost too much to ship and reregister
I live in AZ and would make the 4 hour drive for a BBQ or something like that.
I vote for you selling the plane before you go. My reasoning is that storing the plane for an extended time is all risk. These risks include the expense of replacing and refurbishing components on return and the risk of damage to the plane if someone else flies it. In addition, when you return, you might want to try a different plane, so selling the Kitfox after being in storage will not be as attractive to a potential buyer as selling it before you leave. Best of luck in your decision and thank you for this great channel!
Mount another tailwheel assembly on something so kids can test it to failure! On paper, print a profile of the curved rearmost piece to see if it's bent.
yes thats what i'm going to do
sitting on stop static was a hint.......