I have a 2007 and my rotors are different. My rotors come with the bearing and a new axle nut and with the studs already attached every other video I see is like this one couldn’t find one my trucks style but still super helpful
Thanks for the video, this got me though my first time changing out my rotors. One thing I would suggest however is adding to the description that this video only pertains to 4WDs. I found this out when I got to the point where I needed to remove the rotors and everything was different on my '05 than the '05 in the video. After researching online, I discovered that the rotors for a 2WD is a one piece rotor and hub assembly rather than a separate rotor as in the video.
Yup, I had a '07 2WD F150 with rotors that had hub on it. You would have to remove the 36mm spindle nut to get the whole thing off. Spindle nut is non-usable after being removed as recommended by ford.
Great instructional video. I really like that you give a "tools needed" list, and break it down step by step. It's also a big help giving the torque specifications for each bolt. Great job. My only problem was reading the comments after the install, and seeing that the new rotor was supposed to be cleaned prior to installation. I guess tomorrow I will pull the wheel again, and clean the new rotor with brake cleaner before we bleed the system and road test. I also had trouble getting the "optional" pad clips to stay in the pads . They kept popping out no matter what I tried. I ended up holding them in place with one hand while sliding the caliper over them to keep them secure. Maybe you guys can edit the video description to add in the important step of cleaning the new rotor so others don't have to take everything apart again like I do. Otherwise it's a great tutorial.
Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +HoaxWhoreHunter
thanks, this video help me tremendously last weekend, just wish I had known that my front wheel drive 2008 had bearings included in the rotor assembly before I spent 30 mins trying to beat it off.
Great Video, when I replaced my rotors followed every step and was able to do this myself. The only differences with my 2005 F150 4x4 was the caliper bolt size was 12mm not 13mm. Also the boots on the caliper bolts were attached to the caliper housing, so I was unable to separate them. My truck build date was 10/04. Thanks for saving me some money!!
Just a helpful tip, do not manipulate the hardware. There is a tensile strength necessary to reduce vibrations. When you bend the clip, it allows free movement. Noise =comebacks and unhappy customers
It looks like your "mechanic" overlooked a very nasty gash in the right front drive axle's constant velocity boot. You can see that it's been throwing grease for a while.
Be sure to verify the torque specs quoted in the video. My 2006 F150 4X4 had very different torque specs (higher....) than what were quoted. For instance - the lug nuts (14mm studs) should be torqued to 150 ft lbs, not 110. Still a great video and thanks for putting it together!
Thank you for the video, it was very helpful. I watched the video again to confirm I followed all the steps and yep. I did not miss any of the little details. I only wish I didn't waste my time getting the rotors turned. They took forever, and the results were less than perfect because they were badly scraped.
+John e Thanks for the kind words. For anyone looking to replace their rotors and pads, 1A Auto offers them here: www.1aauto.com/brake-pad-and-rotor-kit-front/i/1abfs00644?UA-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
When you put the new rotor on, the hub looks new. Did you replace it or just clean it up. The dealer is telling me they both come as one piece and I have to buy a whole hub/rotor assembly. Did they change the design?
Thanks just got a 06 f150 super low miles but after 2 weeks needs brakes and rotors. This helped a lot but I don't see any castle nuts or bearings involved.....why?
+Grace Street Church of God Thanks for watching! You will typically need to take off the cap if you are pushing back pistons in multiple calipers! 1aauto.com
I have a 2005 f150 van. I have been watching your video for installing the pad slides . However, my stainless clips are different lengths and I don't know if the longer clip goes on the left side the caliper or ?
I have the same model truck, 2wd. I replaced brake rotors, brake pads, and brake fluid. I put the correct lube on the guide pins and anti seize where the ears slide on the caliper. It rides butter smooth, but when I first start driving, and I slowly let off the brake or let back on slowly, it makes a deep squeaking noise. But doesn't do it when I have driven around and warmed the brakes up. Its not the dust shield touching, but I don't know what else it could be!
I have a 2004 heritage with a 4.2 L engine and they keep trying to give me the brake calipers and rotors you have there. The heritage was basically an old body style as you know but how can I get the right hardware.
+Rick James Here's a link the all of the brake rotors and pads that we carry for your heritage 2004 F150. Hope this helps you out www.1aauto.com/2004-ford-f150-heritage-truck-brake-pad-and-rotor-kits/y-mo-c/2004-1931-127#UA-cam&YTC&CTA%20Comment
They also forgot to mention to spray the new rotors off with brake cleaner, there are oils on the new rotors that have to be removed prior to installing them
My 2004 front rotors have a nut on a spindle and are a hub/rotor combination with the studs connected. Do you have a replacement video for my type of rotors?
I don't think the brake pad clips are optional on the 2005 4x4 model . They are what keep the pads at the right distance from the rotor while they sit in the brake pad clips. I could be wrong, but the directions that came with the new pads mentioned this also. Still an excellent video.
Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +HoaxWhoreHunter
+littleRastaman We're always cycling through cars filming hundreds of common repairs for common vehicles every month. We'll add this to our list of repairs to film. Check back again and hopefully we'll have it soon.
I did just as the video said, but it feels like I'm driving with the emergency brake on now. I went for a short drive and when I got back both front rotors were smoking and we're extremely hot. Did I do anything wrong?
+Bradd Finch We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
+Jrom T You do not have to. As long as you follow our video you should be fine. We carry the replacement brake rotors and pads shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them. Hope this helps you out. www.1aauto.com/brake-pad-and-rotor-kit-front/i/1abfs00644?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&CGxLkyfWk
Thanks for the video. It has been a while since I swapped out rotors in pads, and it was on a Chevy Silverado, so I appreciate the tips. Question for you : After finishing the job, I found a small rubber sleeve on the ground. I realized that it came out of one of the stud/bolts that goes into the calipers. The ones that you showed being cleaned and greased. I only was able to guess this because I remembered seeing a pattern in the grease on one of the studs. It was the same pattern as this small rubber sleeve. is that sleeve critical? Do I need to pull alllllll that crap off again to slide that rubber sleeve in?
The video is outstanding! However, could you please correct the incorrect torque values in the video? The caliper mounting bracket bolts should be 148 ft-lbs, the guide pin bolts should be 55 ft-lbs and the lug nuts should be 150 ft-lbs.
You do not necessarily need to replace the rotor. You can have it turned at most parts stores. Unless it is really messed up i use the old one to save money
Anybody else have issues with the brake pads sticking due to the bracket rusting and swelling where the brake pads slide? This happens to mine almost every year and i have to grind them back down or my pads drag and get super hot!
Some mechanics crack the bleeder screw when using the C clamp to avoid flushing the brake fluid that’s in the caliper back into the ABS hydraulic control unit. Then do a quick bleed of each caliper and top off the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid after the job is done.
+CoolMan Caravan We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
2 things,, unless I missed the part ,(1) shouldn't you take your brake fluid cap off when pressing back the caliper pistons ? and# 2 when pressing back the pistons shouldn't you open up the bleeder screw ? Here's a quote on why ""There are two schools of thought on preventing �debris from being flushed into the anti-lock braking and master cylinder assemblies when the piston is seated in the caliper bore. The first �school� opens the bleeder screw to relieve pressure as the caliper piston is seated. The second �school� clamps the brake hose closed with a pair of hose-clamping pliers to prevent debris from back-flushing into the master cylinder. The first-school method is the most commonly accepted because there�s less chance of inadvertently damaging the hose.""
+Fred N. Smith, Jr. Here are a few videos that we have that will show you how to bleed the brakes. Hope this helps you out. ua-cam.com/users/1aautosearch?query=bleed+brakes
Nobody gonna talk about how he pushed all that dirty brake fluid back up into the lines when pushing the pistons back, rather then cracking open the bleeder valve ? 🫣🤔🤔
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
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Extremely helpful. My brakes were shot. Replaced pads and rotors; did a test run and I didn't die!
+hupernika0 Glad to hear the test run went well. And glad we could help you out. 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
Hands down the best Chanel on replacing prepping and video Angeles
I have a 2007 and my rotors are different. My rotors come with the bearing and a new axle nut and with the studs already attached every other video I see is like this one couldn’t find one my trucks style but still super helpful
I've seeing every video here on youtube for refresher on how to replace brakes on F150s, and yours by far is the best.
Awesome Job! Thanks!!!
seriously?
Thanks for the video, this got me though my first time changing out my rotors. One thing I would suggest however is adding to the description that this video only pertains to 4WDs. I found this out when I got to the point where I needed to remove the rotors and everything was different on my '05 than the '05 in the video. After researching online, I discovered that the rotors for a 2WD is a one piece rotor and hub assembly rather than a separate rotor as in the video.
G Galindo thanks for the heads up I got a 2wd
Yup, I had a '07 2WD F150 with rotors that had hub on it. You would have to remove the 36mm spindle nut to get the whole thing off. Spindle nut is non-usable after being removed as recommended by ford.
Yep Ive got a 04 2wd and its a spindle nut
This channel is amazing. Thank you for saving me literally thousands of dollars!
Great instructional video. I really like that you give a "tools needed" list, and break it down step by step. It's also a big help giving the torque specifications for each bolt. Great job. My only problem was reading the comments after the install, and seeing that the new rotor was supposed to be cleaned prior to installation. I guess tomorrow I will pull the wheel again, and clean the new rotor with brake cleaner before we bleed the system and road test. I also had trouble getting the "optional" pad clips to stay in the pads . They kept popping out no matter what I tried. I ended up holding them in place with one hand while sliding the caliper over them to keep them secure. Maybe you guys can edit the video description to add in the important step of cleaning the new rotor so others don't have to take everything apart again like I do. Otherwise it's a great tutorial.
Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +HoaxWhoreHunter
Just spray the rotor down lightly I forgot too, but I didn't have cleaner. What ever is there will burn off!
Good video, tool list is very helpful for an older man as myself not being brought up with metric.
completely recorded with details very recommendable thanks
thanks, this video help me tremendously last weekend, just wish I had known that my front wheel drive 2008 had bearings included in the rotor assembly before I spent 30 mins trying to beat it off.
Someone call 1A auto parts and buy that man a breaker bar
Or he could just use the impact lmao
Thanks for the how to video, I just got 360 performance rotors in the mail and will use your video to install!!
So far the best, I seen.
+EDDIE Ventura Thanks for checking us out!
Great Video, when I replaced my rotors followed every step and was able to do this myself. The only differences with my 2005 F150 4x4 was the caliper bolt size was 12mm not 13mm. Also the boots on the caliper bolts were attached to the caliper housing, so I was unable to separate them. My truck build date was 10/04. Thanks for saving me some money!!
This channel is AMAZING. Thank you so so much for this content!
Just a helpful tip, do not manipulate the hardware. There is a tensile strength necessary to reduce vibrations. When you bend the clip, it allows free movement. Noise =comebacks and unhappy customers
What about the spring clip things ? Optional?? Some use em some don’t
It looks like your "mechanic" overlooked a very nasty gash in the right front drive axle's constant velocity boot. You can see that it's been throwing grease for a while.
Great video. Thanks its so simple when you know how.
Be sure to verify the torque specs quoted in the video. My 2006 F150 4X4 had very different torque specs (higher....) than what were quoted. For instance - the lug nuts (14mm studs) should be torqued to 150 ft lbs, not 110. Still a great video and thanks for putting it together!
+Matthew Jones Thank you for the feedback! 1aauto.com
Thank you for the video, it was very helpful. I watched the video again to confirm I followed all the steps and yep. I did not miss any of the little details. I only wish I didn't waste my time getting the rotors turned. They took forever, and the results were less than perfect because they were badly scraped.
+John e Thanks for the kind words. For anyone looking to replace their rotors and pads, 1A Auto offers them here: www.1aauto.com/brake-pad-and-rotor-kit-front/i/1abfs00644?UA-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Why do I need the c clamp to push the pistons bakc for?
Great video what about the wear indicators do they come with the pads now
When you put the new rotor on, the hub looks new. Did you replace it or just clean it up. The dealer is telling me they both come as one piece and I have to buy a whole hub/rotor assembly. Did they change the design?
is nobody gonna talk about how he hammered the pads in there???
thank you so much for sharing your knowledge to the rest of us pretenders.
By the way, this is a great video.
Nice to see how someone else does it
Thank you for this helpful video. I'm getting ready to replace the front brake pads on my 04 Ford F-150 as the pads are getting a bit thin
.Thank you my Friend!! Perfect,
Thanks just got a 06 f150 super low miles but after 2 weeks needs brakes and rotors. This helped a lot but I don't see any castle nuts or bearings involved.....why?
This is our dude, dude!
Do you need to take the cap off the brake reservoir before cinching down the c-clamp? I was always told that but didn't see you do it. TIA
+Grace Street Church of God Thanks for watching! You will typically need to take off the cap if you are pushing back pistons in multiple calipers! 1aauto.com
I have a 2005 f150 van. I have been watching your video for installing the pad slides . However, my stainless clips are different lengths and I don't know if the longer clip goes on the left side the caliper or ?
I have the same model truck, 2wd. I replaced brake rotors, brake pads, and brake fluid. I put the correct lube on the guide pins and anti seize where the ears slide on the caliper. It rides butter smooth, but when I first start driving, and I slowly let off the brake or let back on slowly, it makes a deep squeaking noise. But doesn't do it when I have driven around and warmed the brakes up. Its not the dust shield touching, but I don't know what else it could be!
William Rowe likely the quality of brake pads and/or rotors.
I have a 2004 heritage with a 4.2 L engine and they keep trying to give me the brake calipers and rotors you have there. The heritage was basically an old body style as you know but how can I get the right hardware.
+Rick James Here's a link the all of the brake rotors and pads that we carry for your heritage 2004 F150. Hope this helps you out www.1aauto.com/2004-ford-f150-heritage-truck-brake-pad-and-rotor-kits/y-mo-c/2004-1931-127#UA-cam&YTC&CTA%20Comment
Yo, I got my brake back from O’Reilly’s. Will this work?
Great video!!!
Great Video. Thanks for doing this. I really appreciate it !!!! God Bless.
Douglas Crosby You’re welcome! Thanks for watching 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
They also forgot to mention to spray the new rotors off with brake cleaner, there are oils on the new rotors that have to be removed prior to installing them
Alot of rotors now come without oil too, especially if they're coated. But still, I use brake cleaner on em
My 2004 front rotors have a nut on a spindle and are a hub/rotor combination with the studs connected. Do you have a replacement video for my type of rotors?
+Robb Ward We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1AAuto.com
What do you call that type of repair? I’m having difficulty not knowing what it is called. I assume that you sell these parts?
+Robb Ward This would still be considered a brake job or repair, just that your vehicle has the rotor and wheel hub as a complete assembly.
+Robb Ward We do not have a video for the rear wheel drive model right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1AAuto.com
I don't think the brake pad clips are optional on the 2005 4x4 model . They are what keep the pads at the right distance from the rotor while they sit in the brake pad clips. I could be wrong, but the directions that came with the new pads mentioned this also. Still an excellent video.
Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +HoaxWhoreHunter
Thank you the video was very informative. Why on all the break videos does no one recommend changing the brake fluid?
thank you 1aauto
Thank you for watching! Glad to be of help. Please let us know how the repair turns out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Do you have a video for 2008 Ford F-150 RWD because the rotor is combine with wheel bearing
+littleRastaman We're always cycling through cars filming hundreds of common repairs for common vehicles every month. We'll add this to our list of repairs to film. Check back again and hopefully we'll have it soon.
1A Auto Parts thank you so much I’m looking forward to it.
Thank You!!!!!
Great video.. thanks!
+crevis12 Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
My 2004 I had to get a 36mm. Socket and remove the spindle nut to get rotor off
I did just as the video said, but it feels like I'm driving with the emergency brake on now. I went for a short drive and when I got back both front rotors were smoking and we're extremely hot. Did I do anything wrong?
+Bradd Finch We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
so the bleeder valve doesn't need to be cracked for this system? Just bought this gen f150 figured id go through the details before digging in.
+Jrom T You do not have to. As long as you follow our video you should be fine. We carry the replacement brake rotors and pads shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them. Hope this helps you out. www.1aauto.com/brake-pad-and-rotor-kit-front/i/1abfs00644?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&CGxLkyfWk
Thanks for the video. It has been a while since I swapped out rotors in pads, and it was on a Chevy Silverado, so I appreciate the tips.
Question for you : After finishing the job, I found a small rubber sleeve on the ground. I realized that it came out of one of the stud/bolts that goes into the calipers. The ones that you showed being cleaned and greased. I only was able to guess this because I remembered seeing a pattern in the grease on one of the studs. It was the same pattern as this small rubber sleeve. is that sleeve critical? Do I need to pull alllllll that crap off again to slide that rubber sleeve in?
+Robert Salmon We would recommend putting it back on, because it will help to keep the debris and elements out of the bolt.
The video is outstanding! However, could you please correct the incorrect torque values in the video? The caliper mounting bracket bolts should be 148 ft-lbs, the guide pin bolts should be 55 ft-lbs and the lug nuts should be 150 ft-lbs.
What about disc brake quiet on the back of the brake?
when you use a breaker bar on a ratchet to REMOVE lug nuts... I wonder how you dont break your ratchets...
You do not necessarily need to replace the rotor. You can have it turned at most parts stores. Unless it is really messed up i use the old one to save money
You don't need to open the cap on your cylinder when your pushing back the Pistons?
You can if you would like to but it's not necessary. Thanks for watching. 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
Good ❤
Thanks
This was very informative,I mean it did have it corks and whistles but I do think it was very informative!
awesome! thanks
+Larry Robertson No problem. Thank you for watching. 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
You torqued the caliper pin bolts to 25 ft-lbs, but my 08 calls for 55 ft-lbs. The rear brakes are only 24 ft-lbs.
You should always use some brake clean on the rotors after installation to remove any grease /dirt you left on it
+superdave37076 Thanks for the feedback!
Anybody else have issues with the brake pads sticking due to the bracket rusting and swelling where the brake pads slide? This happens to mine almost every year and i have to grind them back down or my pads drag and get super hot!
is it the same as a 2005 F150 4*4? Thanks on advance
+123 45 Thanks for watching. Yes, this should be the same process for your 2005 F150 4WD.
What size c clamp do I need
wish he would explain how to tell by the wear marker.
I beat and pried the snot out of my rotor until realizing it is connected to the bearings!
Wouldnt pushing the pistons back risk messing up your abs
Some mechanics crack the bleeder screw when using the C clamp to avoid flushing the brake fluid that’s in the caliper back into the ABS hydraulic control unit. Then do a quick bleed of each caliper and top off the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid after the job is done.
My calipers do not go back on and the pistons wont retract on them
+CoolMan Caravan We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
The torque for the lug nuts is wrong in the video. The lug nuts torque is 150 foot pounds not 110
With fords you have to do alot of hammering
+James Jamison Thanks for the feedback!
2008 rotors are very different, doesn't really apply to that year
The early 2004 has the disk and bearing together!!! A regular disk will not work
This was a good video but remind me never let you borrow a ratchet.......
Maybe a breaker bar...😁
Cambiar frenos traseros
95foot lbs !? I heard 150 else were
2 things,, unless I missed the part ,(1) shouldn't you take your brake fluid cap off when pressing back the caliper pistons ? and# 2 when pressing back the pistons shouldn't you open up the bleeder screw ? Here's a quote on why ""There are two schools of thought on preventing �debris from being flushed into the anti-lock braking and master cylinder assemblies when the piston is seated in the caliper bore. The first �school� opens the bleeder screw to relieve pressure as the caliper piston is seated. The second �school� clamps the brake hose closed with a pair of hose-clamping pliers to prevent debris from back-flushing into the master cylinder. The first-school method is the most commonly accepted because there�s less chance of inadvertently damaging the hose.""
+Jim Domi Thanks for the feedback!
Don't you need to bkeed the brakes?
+Cordell Terhorst Most of the time you do not, unless the brake pedal is really soft, or doesn't feel right. Hope this helps you out 1aauto.com
1A Auto Parts do you have a video on bleeding brakes? I followed your video to replace the brakes and now my pedal is soft and won't firm up.
+Fred N. Smith, Jr. Here are a few videos that we have that will show you how to bleed the brakes. Hope this helps you out. ua-cam.com/users/1aautosearch?query=bleed+brakes
These lug nuts should be 150 ft lbs, 110 ft lbs is incorrect.
You lost me one minute in. If you need a pipe for leverage, use a breaker bar, not a RATCHET!
Nobody gonna talk about how he pushed all that dirty brake fluid back up into the lines when pushing the pistons back, rather then cracking open the bleeder valve ? 🫣🤔🤔
Great video. Thanks.
+Pastor Lugo Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c