UNI-T UT61E+ DMM, Part1
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2021
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UNI-T UT181A Part 2, Characterizing the grill starter:
• The UNI-T UT181A Datal...
The data for the meters I have tested may be found here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
Answers to Frequently Asked Questions may be found here: docs.google.com/document/d/1g... - Наука та технологія
i think it would be worth it to replace the ptcs and see what's what. Of course it's up to you.
Looks like at least three transistors were damaged. All four should be replaced. All the PTCs will need to be replaced as well. The PCB looks in good condition. As long as the ICs were not damaged, it could be repaired.
@@joesmith-je3tq Assuming you can fix it I guess the question is would you be ok testing it and listing the results.
@@whill44 I would have no problems with testing it for pure entertainment but wouldn't include the results in the spreadsheet.
one more for repair for entertainment (and educational) purposes.
@@joesmith-je3tq Well you know, I'm all about the entertainment. Looking forward to the video. Thanks for the your time and effort Joe.
Thanks much for this video. This is what Im waiting for. There are a lot of video of this dmm in you tube but your approach is top notch
Hello again Joe and thank you for that surprising update about a so called "improved" version of the UNI-T 61 DMM...I was always under the impression that a "new" or "improved" model of a particular product should surpass it's predecessor in every way. Well....so much for being an "improved" version, we can always count on you to shake them down and prove whether they are truly "improved"...and often times the case is that early on in testing, we find weak points or flaws....even sometimes shortcomings in manufacturing and/or circuit design.
Thank you for all that you do Joe, I have and I still am learning from you...👏🏾👍🏽💪🏾🙂
A side note...I was also now thinking that we might have to keep in mind that this "improved" 61E still is considered a "budget" version, based on it's price more so, and as such, we can't expect it to perform like a DMM that is priced in a higher range...so all in all, based on that, we might still be getting a good "bang for our dollar", ESPECIALLY for one of it's best attributes, it's speedy rendering of capacitance values...most likely one of if not it's best attribute...🙂
Wow, that input protection got nuked! Now I’m really curious how a stock 61E+ would handle transients, because there are clearly some significant differences between the new one and the old one.
Awesome video! Also, I have to say, I’m very impressed with the capacitance reading speed on this meter
Damn, you are thorough! Awesome video, thank you.
Best UT61e+ test video, respect.
I want to be entertained ;) Repair and forward with the testing gets my vote.
RE: diode tester. Sometimes it's useful to double-check polarity on SMD LEDs, either before installing or when tracing a circuit. But that's just my use-case. However, I would use a pocket meter with cheap small probes, much "safer" to handle around small parts. Something like UT10 comes to mind.
I don't see people getting more meter for the money with this 'plus' model.
Take a shot, see if you can fix it. What do you have to loose. Thanks for the look.
I would love to have one of those custom testing boxes. You should make a video about it so I can make my own.
If you want to design your own generator, I did link a few videos on the subject on EEVBLOG. Obviously you would be working with potentially lethal electronics so stay safe.
My biggest worry is the rubberized coating on the finger switch
finger oils plus pressure and time does not do that kind of coating very many favors.
you POPPED it!
Main IC looks different from older UT-61e and looks like there's no calibration trimpot.
I guess they keep it at 22000 counts just for the sake of UT-61e series.
Awesome video!
I don't know if you noticed but this meter does not have any 3rd party certifications. I am also always looking forward to watch your videos and doing mods for the better, I was just wondering why with sometimes a few mods the factory does not make them so the meter would be more robust. Its rather a pity.
Just repair it, what do we have to loose at this point. Keep up the great work!
It's like,. Oh no they killed Kenny again from (South Park)
My UT90A was like that! I couldn't tell you how many times I rebuilt it.
Fixing would be interesting just to see what failed. However I would agree further testing would no longer be valid.
Well that was a great video. Sorry for wasting your $$$ as I was one of the people who asked you about doing it. It looked like it might take a bit more punishment but it was more disappointing than I thought. It would have never survived the grill starter. Funny this E+ model is the only one of the new 61 line that doesn’t have some kind of independent test lab sticker. Can’t believe that power amp roasted those PTC’s like it did. How many watts were you pushing it to get it to read the higher frequency? Too bad because it seemed perform well in resistance and capacitance measurements. Well it looks like another Frankenmeter by JS after you finish any other testing if you decide to. Thanks for taking the time and spending your money. Your old modified 61E is killer after your amazing EE brain redesigned it.
Outside of breaking my vow to never bring another UNI-T product into the house, it's no problem. I really have no idea how many Watts / Volts / Amperes we were throwing at it. As you can see in the video, nothing was instrumented. I was creeping up on it expecting that counter to start reading at some point. The PTCs are obviously a heat source. It's the nature of how they work. Getting them hot enough to reflow the solder was a bit of a surprise.
Please try to repair it. Can't help but think after seeing what you did to improve the last 61E they should have paid you to advise them what to change on the plus model
Why don't you test the TruRMS measurement at different frequencies and voltage shapes?
Can you still see the values on the other PTC's? and do you have spares on hand? I was interested to see it run and maybe get one if they go on special. I recently chinced-out on a HT-118A for $15 with a set of 10 soldered gator clips (a real nothing-burger price..)
The outside cases on all 4 parts are gone, right down to the metal.
Hi Joe, may I please ask you on your opinion of the old Tektronix TX3? Many talk about it as if it is one of the greatest meters made. :-)
I've never seen one or even heard of the model. It seems to be very old. No doubt EVERY meter has a fan base. Even the old analog meters have followers. Maybe you could start by finding a manual for it and comparing specs. Maybe use todays value to compare the specs with a meter of similar costs.
You could start a poll asking the group what was the greatest meter ever made. Maybe toss in a few metrics. You would get a lot of opinions.
Personally, I would try to find a new old stock and run it.
@@joesmith-je3tq Thank you so much for your amazing reply, I understand that Fluke did buy it and rename it to Fluke 185.
@@joesmith-je3tq I found a Tek 916 which is a very fast and accurate dual display meter. The TX3 model is going for ridiculous prices, Paul Carlson has one and says it’s his go to meter. He was using the Agilent model with the green LED display for video purposes of showing up better but the thing burned out the display after about 4 years. At the price they charged for them it should last 20. He said he’s done dumb things with the TX3 but it never has failed or locked up and had to be shut down and restarted to reset it. They seem to be scarce. I found one for like $400, no way. I paid $200 for a pristine Fluke 189 and the price at the time for my 3 Brymen meters. I have a meter collection that is close to yours lol. I finally scratched that itch and stopped. For now anyway.😝
You had reasonably high level RF right next to the meter; do you think that may have contributed to its demise as well?
While the amplifier was indeed right next to the meter and operator, the RF is contained until it reached the end of the coax cable.
So what amplitude was that going into the meter at the end? Do all your other meters handle that?
I kinda doubt it, I cant imagine PTCs in other meters would be much more reliable at high frequencies.
Maybe it could have read a 200MHz square wave instead of sine.
The typical surge rated resistor may behave much different. Hard to say. Best thing is don't advertise it on the box and I won't attempt to see if it works.
www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/msg3682882/#msg3682882
Please write down the rating of your ten favorite multimeters
Rating? If you want me to rank the handhelds on a scale of 1 to ten, I am still using the BM869s and the Fluke 189. I do like the BM789. All are very nice basic meters but nothing I would recommend for a beginner or an electrician.
Can you suggest. The YUT61E+ multimeter, when measuring direct current, in milliamp mode, when 220 mA is exceeded, does not show overload (OL), but continues to show 220 mA. Although the current is already 500 mA. Is it damaged??
Mine will show OL around 220mA and will stay OL with 500mA applied. If it was like this and new meter, maybe return it for replacement.
@@joesmith-je3tq , it was a Glitch in my multimeter. Now after 220mA it shows O.L. It was necessary to turn it off and on, and I switched the limits.
It would be easy for you to use your current multimeter about 150 - 200 mA in milliamp mode, take a reading and not change the current, switch the limit to Ampere mode (20 A) and also take a reading. Mine shows 170 mA and 0.182 A. Will there be such deviations or not?
Please repair it if possible.
What do you think of the sanwa pc 7000? is this a clone of brymen 869?
Let me show you a duck and a dog and see if you can tell which is which....
Weird that it can light up the white LED but not measure its forward voltage. Should not be a problem with a 6v battery?
From meters I have looked at, it seems fairly common.
on factory attach(ptc)
I wonder how the ut161 would stand up against this one.
From the specs and inside photos, ut161 looks like much more better product, it also comes with bussman hrc fuse. ut61e+ i think is just an 61e with backlight and new makeup, even thought it use different ic. if am not mistaken uni-t now has several line multimeter that was certificied by etl. it would be curious to see if uni-t really stepping their game with that couple series of multimeters. but of course its not cheap like ut61/ut139 series. i think its prices are almost in brymen teritory.
You're doing God's work
Частоту измеряли? Соответствует спецификации 220 Mhz или нет?!
Нет :(
Ah this was the secret meter at Dave…
"Ah this was the secret meter at Dave…"
I think your right!
LOL. How not to blowup your NanoVNA - don't transmit into it. Kinda shocking that it couldn't even read the spec'd 200MHz at low power levels.
Haha. If only Uni-T hadn't made a false claim about frequency range, that you HAD to test. :-)
I was hoping to see if meter could stand up to any transient test. It died too quickly!
Thanks for getting the meter.
I have been satisfied with my 61e+ especially by adding data logging to my meager toolbench. It was a good $70 upgrade for me. I expect my 61e+ will last as I still have a working Fluke 75 series 1.
You've already upgraded a 61e, so there is no challenge in doing that again. I'd still like to see if 61e+ pops from transient test, if you can get it working. Worth the effort to have invalid results? In any case, I do enjoy watching you push things till they smoke.
BTW I was impressed by the usefulness you got out of the 181a once you repaired and modified it.
I'm fine with trying to improve it or just doing a repair. If the ICs have not been damaged, I would have no problems running transients on it for pure entertainment. I would not collect any data from it as I am not sure how the meter has been stressed.
I agree with Dave. I wouldn't buy it for the safety.
None of the tests I run have anything to do with safety or suggest if a meter would pass certification or not. The meter isn't very robust electrically or mechanically compared with others I have looked at but on par for this brand. Cost is high enough, I would look for a higher end meter.
Haha, it can`t handle 220Mhz spec)))🤣😂
Hi Joe
Hello
Hey, that was awful :))))
Thanks for the video.
Thanks. I'll try not to do that!
For me, if you’re not a meticulous technician, then you can’t afford to buy good things, you’re happy with simple things but can be used somehow. why isn't this a great meter for simple people who can't afford to buy expensive electronics.
nandito ka pala sir
@@zim2493 😅😅😅
You've heard of "Audiofools"? Well, some people are Instrumefools.
Imagine this guy and Dave Jones, holding hands and skipping down the elitist brick road in la-la-land.
@@johncoops6897 Elitist? Some people actually use these to make a living in 3 phase environments while needing to test VFD or analog cards. I always bought the best meters I could my life depended on them.
@@johnnorton6085 - yes, in a commercial or production environment, nice tools are often warranted. Especially when the business is paying for them, and/or they can be leased or written down for tax, etc. However there is no such thing as an unlimited budget in normal life... so everything is a compromise.
Yeah, everyone wants a $20,000 oscilloscope or a $2000 bench multimeter, however the budget needs to be allocated realistically and responsibly. The majority of people just cannot justify paying many hundreds of dollars for a multimeter, no matter how damn important you might think they are.
The Instrumefools say to never buy low-cost multimeters because they are "unsafe", yet that is irrelevant to hobbyists who are never testing the mains supply. The "elitist" that I refer to are people who gloat over their high-end equipment (usually obtained FOR FREE), and claim that anything lesser than those devices is totally worthless and should never be used.
The analogy would be the guy who owns a Lambo, and refuses to be driven in anything that he considers is lesser. The guy who, when asked what is the best car to buy for a single mother with a $10,000 budget, replies that all cars of that price are totally dangerous, slow, undesirable, ugly, lacking in features, and that nobody should never EVER buy such things. Only a Lambo will do, if you cannot afford a Lambo then you shouldn't be driving.
So, videos like this putting shit on a $100 multimeter are very shallow. Of course we can find fault, but the real important thing is not to compare the $100 unit with the ultimate best $5,000 meter, but rather to compare it with everything else available at THE PRICE POINT.
everything is fine, but the watch protection function is too poor. In addition to fast sampling, the other parameters the company offers are too much for its capabilities. Thanks for your video. I didn't buy it, waste of money for the price that 0 really guarantees.
I suspect there was a translation problem. I have no idea what a watch protection function would be.
Ну конечно, Brymen интереснее выглядит за такие деньги. Но во всяком случае UNI-T развивает технологию, уже нормальные клеммы использует, и это прогресс. А на ВЧ делать замеры мультиметром смысла вообще нет.
Of course you can make that claim but the reality is UNI-T advertises that the meter can be used to make these high frequency measurements.
Honestly Joe I don't know why Uni-T Campany is still trying? I mean they should've gone out of business by now...
they don't know how to design and manufacture a meter, end of the story.
Because many people only consider the features and price. They make a lot of low cost, feature rich products. They should be in business for many years to come.
@@joesmith-je3tq Oh GOD
My main beef would be with lying on the box in regards to specs. Nobody forced their hand to put 200MHz or whatever it is on the box. 50MHz would have been just fine, although the spec is meaningless if you don’t also specify the lowest signal level it should detect across all frequencies, or provide a sensitivity vs frequency plot. The manufacturer here knows how to make meters. They are dishonest in advertising and documentation/marketing material. So I could never buy their product and trust what’s written on the box. It’s an issue of trust. Really basic stuff. Trust doesn’t matter to them. Then they don’t matter to me as a customer. Easy, right?