Sal, thanks again for such great content. As a kid, my photographic mentor always pushed that the rendering of the eyes is EVERYTHING! A proper catchlight is what gives LIFE to your subject regardless of their facial expression. He Always lit for the eyes first. That's how he was taught as an apprentice on the Warner Brothers photo studios back in the fifties. That's how I learned. His eyelighter was home made back in 1953. I made mine as a high school freshman in 1970 with chicken wire inside a leather sock dyed in white on one side and silver on the other. I also covered with various reflective fabrics. I'm able to mold the scoop's width as needed.
Been on the fence about this one and I must say this is one of the better reviews of it. Would’ve liked to see a comparison between this and a flat reflector but still very well done.
Flat reflectors are definitely usable and certainly easier for on-location shoots. BUT...they don't wrap around the face and create as "full" of a fill light as the curved reflector. I use the flat reflector when I travel to clients' homes or offices and use the curved when they come to me. You can sort of fake it if you can somehow bend the flat reflector, but at that point, you might as well invest in a curved reflector.
Sal, I have a question for you. I have the Eyelighter 2. I bought it at the last Shutterfest 😜. My question is there a recommended height from the face? Tilt? Best distance from the subject? Love your videos. Please make more. Thank you.
great question... as you can imagine... "it depends"... :) so... i usually put it right against their belt line that seems to be the perfect height for me... and then tilt it towards them at a similar angle to the light above... remember - its used to fill the shadows... so you are trying to catch the light in and push it up at them... dont be afraid to take a few test shots to get it dialed in, but once you find the sweet spot - you wont need to adjust for the most part.
Set up a video camera where you'd be shooting from and record as you call out the angles and distances loud enough to be recorded by the camera as you manipulate its position in relation to your model. Got no model? I use a wig-shop sourced styrofoam maniquin head, Paint it a skin tone, remove some material where the eyes would be and glue on a couple of colored marbles. When you view the video you'll be able to judge your best general position to start with. I do this with all my light sources and modifiers. I know ahead of the session on how my placement will be tailored on set. Old-school cinematographers' learning method. Good luck!
It adds a lot to the image. This is a well done use but i think most people use it too much and I don't like bottom lite images. I might of gone a little bit less light as I want very light shadows.
Great straightforward demo, thanks! I had always wondered if these really worked, so now I know. Question: If subject has a saggy/double chin, would this make it worse? And if so, how to compensate?
great question! in that case you are right - the light would be drawing attention to those areas vs the shadows being able to "corrective light" and shape the subject. i would prob not use this in that case and come up with a different lighting pattern.
I was wondering do you find you need the b10 plus or would the b10 do most of what your lighting needs are? From my understanding it's only a 1 stop difference.
Richard Gollar when I had to make the same choice I considered that going up only 1 stop in ISO would allow me to spare a lot of money. I have a Canon 5D Mark IV and no one will be able to see the difference between ISO 100 and ISO 200 in most of the shooting situations.
Hi, I have a few flashpoint light stands, but none go, or sit low enough for portraits, any recommendations, on what stand to use ? I’m stumped. I hope this is not a dumb question… Thank you !!!!
appreciate the feedback - not the goal of this video - it was more to show the end result, but fair enough - ill do a more indepth vid on the product for sure!! thanks for watching. :)
Sal, thanks again for such great content. As a kid, my photographic mentor always pushed that the rendering of the eyes is EVERYTHING! A proper catchlight is what gives LIFE to your subject regardless of their facial expression. He Always lit for the eyes first. That's how he was taught as an apprentice on the Warner Brothers photo studios back in the fifties. That's how I learned. His eyelighter was home made back in 1953. I made mine as a high school freshman in 1970 with chicken wire inside a leather sock dyed in white on one side and silver on the other. I also covered with various reflective fabrics. I'm able to mold the scoop's width as needed.
thats an awesome story for sure!! :) take what you got and make what you need right? :)
I love the before and after! The eyelighter makes a huge difference.
Been on the fence about this one and I must say this is one of the better reviews of it. Would’ve liked to see a comparison between this and a flat reflector but still very well done.
Flat reflectors are definitely usable and certainly easier for on-location shoots. BUT...they don't wrap around the face and create as "full" of a fill light as the curved reflector. I use the flat reflector when I travel to clients' homes or offices and use the curved when they come to me. You can sort of fake it if you can somehow bend the flat reflector, but at that point, you might as well invest in a curved reflector.
I don’t like the shape in peoples eyes
Makes a huge difference especially in filling the shadows up which makes for a pleasing headshot
Love the contrast! Definitely helps get rid of shadows and any unpleasant features making it a good balance of light. Awesome video Sal! Cheers
ty ty.
Thank Sal & Alissa for always giving!!
YOU ARE VERY WELCOME!
Beautiful ! Definitely food for thought. Thank you.
ty sir!
Sal, I have a question for you. I have the Eyelighter 2. I bought it at the last Shutterfest 😜. My question is there a recommended height from the face? Tilt? Best distance from the subject?
Love your videos. Please make more.
Thank you.
great question... as you can imagine... "it depends"... :) so... i usually put it right against their belt line that seems to be the perfect height for me... and then tilt it towards them at a similar angle to the light above... remember - its used to fill the shadows... so you are trying to catch the light in and push it up at them... dont be afraid to take a few test shots to get it dialed in, but once you find the sweet spot - you wont need to adjust for the most part.
The designer of the Eyelighther recommends the eyelighter CENTER 30 inches from the face and 30" inches from the softbox.
I use one in my studio but I sometimes struggle with where to place it (how high, how close to the subject). Good quick video Sal!
Thanks for watching!
Set up a video camera where you'd be shooting from and record as you call out the angles and distances loud enough to be recorded by the camera as you manipulate its position in relation to your model. Got no model? I use a wig-shop sourced styrofoam maniquin head, Paint it a skin tone, remove some material where the eyes would be and glue on a couple of colored marbles. When you view the video you'll be able to judge your best general position to start with. I do this with all my light sources and modifiers. I know ahead of the session on how my placement will be tailored on set. Old-school cinematographers' learning method. Good luck!
It adds a lot to the image. This is a well done use but i think most people use it too much and I don't like bottom lite images. I might of gone a little bit less light as I want very light shadows.
I think Alissa's ring was producing a third catchlight :-D
Darren Russinger lmfao. You’re not lying. :)
Great straightforward demo, thanks! I had always wondered if these really worked, so now I know. Question: If subject has a saggy/double chin, would this make it worse? And if so, how to compensate?
great question! in that case you are right - the light would be drawing attention to those areas vs the shadows being able to "corrective light" and shape the subject. i would prob not use this in that case and come up with a different lighting pattern.
I was wondering do you find you need the b10 plus or would the b10 do most of what your lighting needs are? From my understanding it's only a 1 stop difference.
its more than enough UNLESS you are on location in bright light - that one extra stop really does make a difference. :)
@@SalCincotta1 thx for the reply. I have 2 b10's and I think I will add 1 b10 plus for the main light in bright conditions
Richard Gollar when I had to make the same choice I considered that going up only 1 stop in ISO would allow me to spare a lot of money.
I have a Canon 5D Mark IV and no one will be able to see the difference between ISO 100 and ISO 200 in most of the shooting situations.
Fantastic. Did you use the white or silver one? Cheers!
silver is my fav.
Maybe you can help me on this. Just got one cause I plan to get into headshots next year. Is it good for white or silver side
i use the silver side - i love the look.
Hi, I have a few flashpoint light stands, but none go, or sit low enough for portraits, any recommendations, on what stand to use ? I’m stumped.
I hope this is not a dumb question…
Thank you !!!!
yes - we had the same issue and had to buy the avenger baby stand - worth eveyr penny!!
@@SalCincotta1 Thank you for responding to my question, your help is very appreciated!!!
Do you really want us to tell you everything that is up? That is so kind of you.
Video is too short. Make another video showing more of the setup. Show how long does it take to put together ?
appreciate the feedback - not the goal of this video - it was more to show the end result, but fair enough - ill do a more indepth vid on the product for sure!! thanks for watching. :)
@@SalCincotta1 Thanks for the reply Sal. You're the man!
@2:25 Alissa definitely doesn't look too impressed about this. haha
true... she is truly annoyed at my b roll skills... :)
Do you mind sharing your settings here?