Your comment about the huge amount of time thinking and sweating the details rings so true. I tell my wife this all the time but I'm not so sure I'm getting through.
For a first timer you’re doing very well. Love the quality you’re putting into this. As to slitting coil stock without a slitter tool. Align your cut line on the top lip of the brake. Clamp it down. Run your knife along the top lip a couple of times to score the aluminum. Bend it like you would a normal fold. Straighten the piece out with your hands. Repeat folding and straightening until metal fatigue occurs. You now have a strip. Not as fast as a slitter but way way way faster than snips. WE ARE!!
i didnt check all the comments to see if someone mentioned this yet. But, sometimes it helps when drilling holes to 'wobble' slightly as you drill through it doesnt seem to affect the cleanliness of the cut and makes it way easier to cut and get the bit out.
Great content, you seem to be a smart guy and do a lot of homework. The only problem I see is bugs or insects will make condos out of the exposed weep holes. I used 032 alum flashing for my first time use of Hardie this year I was told by the supplier I could of used felt or house wrap for this flashing detail but decided that wouldn’t be a wise choice. after I painted my lap siding I noticed the factory edges appear to have snipe within the first 5” when the sun hits it just right. You’re correct about factory pre finish your touch up will fade differently so use it sparingly.
Thanks! I do try to stay well educated on it all, it takes a lot of time and energy. I've heard the bugs in rainscreen theory before but in practice it just doesn't happen, at least no more bugs than would find their way behind typical vinyl siding. Recently read a Joe Lstiburek article (Building Science Corp) where he took his 16 year old cladding over rain screen off and found the same. I'll know for sure when we take the south side off for the future addition
Wasn’t really thinking about the 1000 lady bugs or black flies that I commonly find when I remove vinyl thinking more about mud diver or carpenter bees blocking the air flow on your trim detail weep slots. Insects are the worst. Always looking for a easy nesting place. Good luck I hope it works out for you.
Yeah it's certainly a theory but I just don't feel that will happen in practice, at least not to an extent it will hinder drainage. I'll take that risk over the risk of trapping water
According to hardie, you dont apply any caulk at openings with flashing for any door/window/opening. Must maintain a 1/4" spacing at those openings. And a 1/8" at the ends of the hardie board to transition pieces.
Don't forget about teeing up for any rebates along the way. We got $2,400.00 back on appliances in rebates - really! They were the Frigidaire PRO line of appliances: Double Oven, 26" Stovetop (Propane), Dishwasher, and Refrigerator. I did have to provide a "Paid" invoice and the serial numbers after installation. There was also a window of time we were eligible. Just try to save $$$ wherever you can. Of course, anything unused, bring it back too if you can. Keep up the good work.
Yeah there are a few options. I liked the vertical channel structure more than a honeycomb matrix and the filter fabric was a must for compression resistance, marking lines on the surface, and keeping mortar out when going behind the stone veneer. Benjamin Obdyke also has a history of high quality products in this niche which is why I ultimately went with them
Did you have to black caulk the nails in the zip? Just curious bc I had a discussion with my contractor about over-driven fasteners? What’s the prevailing thought on this. Maybe you addressed this later in the video. Thanks.
Yes, we liquid flashed over every nail. It's recommended on the over-driven fasteners but we liquid flashed over every nail since we were already checking every fastener. Check out this post from Huber's website, scroll to the section titled "Flashing Nail Heads": www.huberwood.com/blog/tips-when-using-zip-system-liquid-flash
How did you locate the studs from outside the wall? I know that you designed the house yourself but I’m more interested in the process. Did you measure the offset from the corner/door/window etc and just go 16 in oc and mark with a line down the wall?
Hi I am looking to use the 7" exposure hardie product on my own house design... I am curious your opinion on the gaps between the boards on the floating bottom edge of each board. I know this lends itself well for air to help dry out the wall etc., but I am also installing the clapboard siding over a real rainscreen (furring strips). Because Hardie is basically prefinished paint, their is no way to hide these gaps and spaces... I understand it is obviously not noticeable from a distance, but easily seen when looking up at a wall when your next to it. I feel like this type of space using traditional wood would not exist (I guess because its specified to nail at top and bottom and paint over the exposed nails... Again all doable with wood product, but Hardie you can't do this, touchup paint will always be noticeable. Hard decision to make on siding choice.. I know you did not use furring strips, so may not be able to comment on this part - but I am also concerned of potential waviness in my own design between the furring.
Beautiful work but lots of things different from what hardie recommends. No caulking where siding meets trim. At the gable end the trim goes over the siding in your detail but hardie recommends butting to the gable trim and caulking. Not a criticism. Just wondering why everything is so different from what hardie recommends
Lots more details in the 'preparing for siding' and exterior trim videos, all trim at windows, doors, gables, and corners laps over the ends of the siding and fastens to furring strips. We wanted a caulk-free exterior (caulk = maintenance) and also really don't like the look of caulked butt joints. JH also doesn't like rain screen air gaps behind the siding which we also disagree with
The green coating on Zip is a WRB (weather resistant barrier), not a rain screen. They do advertise it as a well draining surface, but it does not have the same airflow and drying ability as a physical air gap between sheathing and siding.
A Poor Split angle Roof Design Why - when you are the Owner building the house Why Would you choose a low Roof angled Roof on one side. So bloody ugly. The internal Rooms become an crappie ugly Low Ceiling design & very Poor Headroom. Or wasted Angled Ceiling Voids. You can still do Dorma's windows on a normal Gable Roof. A big learning curve. A Good Team Go Hard.
I don't think you've seen enough of the design from either the interior or exterior. Go back to the design or framing videos if you're interested. The salt box style roof maximizes interior square footage and allows a walkout deck off the back. We think it looks great.
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Next up: WHY we picked James Hardie over competing products like LP Smartside. Stay tuned!
ua-cam.com/video/x11nYDX9g64/v-deo.htmlsi=kurBC-bcPC_MNJwM
Your comment about the huge amount of time thinking and sweating the details rings so true. I tell my wife this all the time but I'm not so sure I'm getting through.
haha yep you get it!
I really appreciate your "attention to detail". The thought and planning is outstanding....
it takes time and patience but worth it!
For a first timer you’re doing very well. Love the quality you’re putting into this.
As to slitting coil stock without a slitter tool. Align your cut line on the top lip of the brake. Clamp it down. Run your knife along the top lip a couple of times to score the aluminum. Bend it like you would a normal fold. Straighten the piece out with your hands. Repeat folding and straightening until metal fatigue occurs. You now have a strip. Not as fast as a slitter but way way way faster than snips.
WE ARE!!
The coil I use is 30 gauge steel, the knife trick doesn't work for steel 😜 thanks for following along!!
@@MasonDixonAcres Nice. Going heavy duty for everything.
We'll also go with the white/black look but use Canexel boards. You project gives us a good idea about ours will look in the end. Thanks!
Awesome, we love the look!
Great video; thank you for the ride-along!
Glad you enjoyed it!
i didnt check all the comments to see if someone mentioned this yet. But, sometimes it helps when drilling holes to 'wobble' slightly as you drill through it doesnt seem to affect the cleanliness of the cut and makes it way easier to cut and get the bit out.
And I only thought I'd seen total overkill before. This takes the cake.
Great content, you seem to be a smart guy and do a lot of homework. The only problem I see is bugs or insects will make condos out of the exposed weep holes. I used 032 alum flashing for my first time use of Hardie this year I was told by the supplier I could of used felt or house wrap for this flashing detail but decided that wouldn’t be a wise choice. after I painted my lap siding I noticed the factory edges appear to have snipe within the first 5” when the sun hits it just right. You’re correct about factory pre finish your touch up will fade differently so use it sparingly.
Thanks! I do try to stay well educated on it all, it takes a lot of time and energy. I've heard the bugs in rainscreen theory before but in practice it just doesn't happen, at least no more bugs than would find their way behind typical vinyl siding. Recently read a Joe Lstiburek article (Building Science Corp) where he took his 16 year old cladding over rain screen off and found the same. I'll know for sure when we take the south side off for the future addition
Wasn’t really thinking about the 1000 lady bugs or black flies that I commonly find when I remove vinyl thinking more about mud diver or carpenter bees blocking the air flow on your trim detail weep slots. Insects are the worst. Always looking for a easy nesting place. Good luck I hope it works out for you.
Yeah it's certainly a theory but I just don't feel that will happen in practice, at least not to an extent it will hinder drainage. I'll take that risk over the risk of trapping water
The build is looking good. Nothing like being recorded while you are trying to work...
haha Ben and Mike are well aware of what they're getting themselves into when they come over 😂
According to hardie, you dont apply any caulk at openings with flashing for any door/window/opening. Must maintain a 1/4" spacing at those openings. And a 1/8" at the ends of the hardie board to transition pieces.
Correct. Our door/window/corner trim design has zero exterior caulk
Don't forget about teeing up for any rebates along the way. We got $2,400.00 back on appliances in rebates - really! They were the Frigidaire PRO line of appliances: Double Oven, 26" Stovetop (Propane), Dishwasher, and Refrigerator. I did have to provide a "Paid" invoice and the serial numbers after installation. There was also a window of time we were eligible. Just try to save $$$ wherever you can. Of course, anything unused, bring it back too if you can. Keep up the good work.
Awesome tips! We definitely do our fair share of returning leftover materials 😁
Been debating which rain screen product to use behind my Hardie siding. Why did you choose Slicker Max over any other product?
Yeah there are a few options. I liked the vertical channel structure more than a honeycomb matrix and the filter fabric was a must for compression resistance, marking lines on the surface, and keeping mortar out when going behind the stone veneer. Benjamin Obdyke also has a history of high quality products in this niche which is why I ultimately went with them
Did you have to black caulk the nails in the zip? Just curious bc I had a discussion with my contractor about over-driven fasteners? What’s the prevailing thought on this. Maybe you addressed this later in the video. Thanks.
Yes, we liquid flashed over every nail. It's recommended on the over-driven fasteners but we liquid flashed over every nail since we were already checking every fastener.
Check out this post from Huber's website, scroll to the section titled "Flashing Nail Heads": www.huberwood.com/blog/tips-when-using-zip-system-liquid-flash
How did you locate the studs from outside the wall? I know that you designed the house yourself but I’m more interested in the process. Did you measure the offset from the corner/door/window etc and just go 16 in oc and mark with a line down the wall?
You can see the nails in the sheathing!
@@MasonDixonAcres ahh very good point, especially with zip and the circles
Hi I am looking to use the 7" exposure hardie product on my own house design... I am curious your opinion on the gaps between the boards on the floating bottom edge of each board. I know this lends itself well for air to help dry out the wall etc., but I am also installing the clapboard siding over a real rainscreen (furring strips). Because Hardie is basically prefinished paint, their is no way to hide these gaps and spaces... I understand it is obviously not noticeable from a distance, but easily seen when looking up at a wall when your next to it. I feel like this type of space using traditional wood would not exist (I guess because its specified to nail at top and bottom and paint over the exposed nails... Again all doable with wood product, but Hardie you can't do this, touchup paint will always be noticeable. Hard decision to make on siding choice.. I know you did not use furring strips, so may not be able to comment on this part - but I am also concerned of potential waviness in my own design between the furring.
There are no gaps, one plank sits tight on top the next if nailed on the engraved nailing line.
Beautiful work but lots of things different from what hardie recommends. No caulking where siding meets trim. At the gable end the trim goes over the siding in your detail but hardie recommends butting to the gable trim and caulking.
Not a criticism. Just wondering why everything is so different from what hardie recommends
Lots more details in the 'preparing for siding' and exterior trim videos, all trim at windows, doors, gables, and corners laps over the ends of the siding and fastens to furring strips. We wanted a caulk-free exterior (caulk = maintenance) and also really don't like the look of caulked butt joints. JH also doesn't like rain screen air gaps behind the siding which we also disagree with
I guess I”m confused. Aren’t zip boards covered in material that serves as a rain screen? Isn’t this overkill?
The green coating on Zip is a WRB (weather resistant barrier), not a rain screen. They do advertise it as a well draining surface, but it does not have the same airflow and drying ability as a physical air gap between sheathing and siding.
@@MasonDixonAcres okay I guess I was wondering why add a wrap over it as well as the gap. I probably used unclear terms.
You are getting major blow out the back of siding when you nail
Are you saying that because of the rainscreen?
@@MasonDixonAcres yes but fiber cement will blow out even on a flat surface when using a nail gun. The mesh makes it even worse
A Poor Split angle Roof Design
Why -
when you are the Owner building the house
Why Would you choose a low Roof angled Roof on one side.
So bloody ugly.
The internal Rooms become an crappie ugly Low Ceiling design & very Poor Headroom.
Or wasted Angled Ceiling Voids.
You can still do Dorma's windows on a normal Gable Roof.
A big learning curve.
A Good Team
Go Hard.
I don't think you've seen enough of the design from either the interior or exterior. Go back to the design or framing videos if you're interested. The salt box style roof maximizes interior square footage and allows a walkout deck off the back. We think it looks great.