The way you transfer the lettering to wood or any other surface is to chalk the back of the paper then draw the outline of the lettering or shapes. This is the way I was taught 40+ years ago when leaning to signwrite at Hammersmith College. Just use masking tape to hold the paper in place.
Great video! I love the sawdust idea at the end. I've done a fair bit of letter carving just without a router. I put a sheet of carbon paper between the printed letters and the wood then go over it with a pencil to transfer the shapes to the wood.
I really like the way you did the bottoms of your lettering! I used yellow glue in the bottom of one of my lathe turned bowls as the insert I put in the center was to deep and required to much sanding to level out. The glue turned a reddish brown and saved the bowl. I just wish I had watched your video earlier. If I had I would have used the saw dust method. Thanks for the information.
A technique I came across years ago (not my idea) for transferring laser (not inkjet) printed patterns to wood is to print it reversed then place it print side down on the wood and secure with masking tape. Use an iron on the hottest setting with no steam to melt the toner, which will transfer to the wood.
I just recently discovered your channel and must say it’s great. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. As a DIYer I learned a lot from you. Thank you.
I’ve got to hand it to you Stuart, the sawdust and glue is very clever and looks great. I haven’t seen that before so yes, I think that you can claim it as a Proper DIY exclusive!
Your work is always excellent Stuart, love your attention to detail and problem solving. Yourself and “ self sufficient me “ are my two favourite UA-cam channels. Both informative, enjoyable, relaxing with no ego or BS. Thank you Stuart for many hours of me time 👍
I used this method first and then realized that printing the image using a laser toner and then rubbing it into the wood using cellulose tinners was much quicker. You can also purchase letter templates for routers, so you get a perfect cut.
"So when it comes down to sanding [...] to be honest with you, there is only so much you can do, before you just lose the will to live" pure magic. Please print that on a T-shirt!
I like the idea of tapping the Stanley blade to cut into acute angles. I've used a blunted centre punch to disguise inaccessible chisel marks, by punching multiple overlapping dents and create a bumpy finish.
Hi Stewart, this is the first of your videos I have seen. Very nice work, I have now subscribed to your channel and will soon catch up on some of your other videos.
@@ProperDIY Thank you. I recently moved to Türkiye and lost the workshop I had in England. I am in the process of setting up a small workshop and finding the best places to buy timber.
Love your attention to detail. When you used the knife to cut the point on the stars you could have stuck some tape on the knife to protect it when using the hammer
I love this sign and the original way that you used to cover the bottom of the carved letters. I'm going to call it "The PD Method". It's got certain ring to it, don't you think? I found you via the collaboration with Keith Brown and I'm happy that I did. I am a new subscriber. Thanks for the video.
Well that turned out nicely Stuart. It's been really good to track your progression in the world of UA-cam! I'm sure Luca and family will love the sign.
Another great video Stuart, I am constantly amazed at each and every one of your videos, the content quality is so consistent and so clear and entertaining also. Love the tips with sign making, a true professional, Keep it going buddy!!
Nice video 🙂👍🏻 I use saw dust and glue to cover up the, usually, 2 screw holes in a ?doorstep/sill? (English is not my native language, sorry), for the last 25 years. I mean the piece of wood at the bottom, between a doorframe 😅 Once sanded and varnished it gives you a proper o'l fashion door-look without staring at two stupid shiny screws 🧐 Never thought about using it as equaliser. Nice one... Thanks!
I sometimes use a JCB/Stanley knife when routing signs to help with crisp sharp corners. Instead of using a claw hammer, I use my homemade wooden mallet. Does the job just grate and lowers the risk of damaging the knife when using the claw hammer. Not a criticism in any way, just a helpful tip I hope.
Hello Stuart, another good video thanks. I would have used carbon paper to transfer the lines of the letters on the the wood. And can I suggest that if you want to make the bottom of the letter nice and flat, mix the sawdust with the glue first then pour it into the letters and it will fine it's own level
Nice video. Another way to finish the bottom would be to use paint and a syringe. You could 'syringe' the paint into the bottom creating a flat surface by filling the imperfections with paint. Also you cold use a 'Dremmell' type tool for sanding inside the letters. It could save you losing the will to live... Haha...
I was doing something similar last weekend - but I used a Pritt stick to stick the paper to the wood (putting the glue onto the wood. Apart from being cheaper, it is water soluble so I think my cleanup was probably easier.
Great tutorial, Stuart, thanks a lot. Many of us use a MIX of glue & sawdust to hide mistakes, but, I have NEVER seen it used like this as a, quite unique, finish and it is a great idea. Apologies if this has been asked already , but, what router bit did you use?
I've done that same trick myself to fill in routed patterns, the only thing I done different was I thinned the PVA glue so that it ran into the bottom easier and I didn't need to brush it as much (in my case push it around with a small bit of wood). once danish oil was applied the saw dust bottoms go very dark and stand out more. I think next time I'll attach the dust extractor tho, for all it seems to hamper visibility the lack of sawdust obstructing the said same has to be worth it.
Beautiful job Stuart Do you have a Dremel? With the hundreds of various bits you could have really gone to town and made your life so much easier at the same time. Regardless sometimes the manual way is more satisfying and the piece looks fantastic!
G'day from Down Under, Stuart. Love your videos. However, I have a question, which you may have answered at one time or another ....... but, if you make a few of these signs, wouldn't it be a good idea to get yourself a CNC machine? Just curious, is all. 🇦🇺🇬🇧👍🍺🍺
TRy mirroring the text and transfer the text to the wood,...... You need to add a water-soluble varnish to PVA glue (making the same as a brand name 'Mod Podge') to glue the printed text to the wood When dry wet the paper and rub it off leaving the text on the wood. This is how we put photos onto wood
I don't know what kind of router bit you used. I think a down cutting spiral bit would have made some smoother edges on the letters. They cut from the top down and won't splinter the edges like you got.
The author does like to from scratch, ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.
Hi Stuart, been following your channel for a while, lovely job on the sign. I would love to see you review a Dremel or similar multi tool I reckon it could be very handy for you. 😉 p.s the mrs wants to know what's in the shed in the paddock, she's not very patient 🤣 keep up the good work 👏
If you have a laser printer, print the word in reverse, place printed copy face down on wood and using a hot iron run across paper and the toner will adhere to the wood.
Look at UA-cam videos of transferring an image like yours onto wood using white glue and similar. You could then cut it out using the letters as a template.
Editing the vacuum sound to be louder when you took your ear protection off was a nice touch! 10:40
Deserves a time stamp! 10:40
Classic PD touch,
@@stuartday1876 I agree! Added one!
The way you transfer the lettering to wood or any other surface is to chalk the back of the paper then draw the outline of the lettering or shapes. This is the way I was taught 40+ years ago when leaning to signwrite at Hammersmith College. Just use masking tape to hold the paper in place.
Great video as always. And mark if your reading this congratulations on the new baby
I absolutely LOVE your sawdust tip! I will use it EVERYDAY!!!
The sawdust fill is a great idea. Thanks for enlightening us!
No one likes an uneven bottom, you sir are a true professional in everything you do. Fantastic channel, keep going Stuart……
I like bubblebuttts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I wish all videos were made as clear as yours Stuart, thank you for such great content.
I'm a hobby woodworker and I love learning new techniques so this has been very helpful.
Great video! I love the sawdust idea at the end. I've done a fair bit of letter carving just without a router. I put a sheet of carbon paper between the printed letters and the wood then go over it with a pencil to transfer the shapes to the wood.
I really like the way you did the bottoms of your lettering! I used yellow glue in the bottom of one of my lathe turned bowls as the insert I put in the center was to deep and required to much sanding to level out. The glue turned a reddish brown and saved the bowl. I just wish I had watched your video earlier. If I had I would have used the saw dust method. Thanks for the information.
Very nicely done. I would not have believed such a great finish could be achieved like this. Very helpful. Thanks.
Great idea with the sawdust 👏
Very nice. You are skilled with that router.
A technique I came across years ago (not my idea) for transferring laser (not inkjet) printed patterns to wood is to print it reversed then place it print side down on the wood and secure with masking tape. Use an iron on the hottest setting with no steam to melt the toner, which will transfer to the wood.
Your channel presentation and content is excellent, very professional.
Thanks Stuart! 🇬🇧🏴👍🏻
Much appreciated!
Ooh! Stuart- so glad you covered-up your uneven bottom! ☺️
But seriously, that is a very impressive bit of carving. Thank you for your outstanding series of videos 🙏🏻
I like the saw dust trick. Definitely the hardest bit of the project 👍🏻
I just recently discovered your channel and must say it’s great. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. As a DIYer I learned a lot from you. Thank you.
I’ve got to hand it to you Stuart, the sawdust and glue is very clever and looks great. I haven’t seen that before so yes, I think that you can claim it as a Proper DIY exclusive!
An awesome job there Stuart, and some really helpful pointers along the way as well.
Not only a great idea but a great tutorial as well. Something that I might try in the future. Cheers Stuart.
Beautiful job 👍
Your work is always excellent Stuart, love your attention to detail and problem solving. Yourself and “ self sufficient me “ are my two favourite UA-cam channels. Both informative, enjoyable, relaxing with no ego or BS. Thank you Stuart for many hours of me time 👍
I used this method first and then realized that printing the image using a laser toner and then rubbing it into the wood using cellulose tinners was much quicker. You can also purchase letter templates for routers, so you get a perfect cut.
Thanks, Stuart!
"So when it comes down to sanding [...] to be honest with you, there is only so much you can do, before you just lose the will to live" pure magic. Please print that on a T-shirt!
I like the idea of tapping the Stanley blade to cut into acute angles. I've used a blunted centre punch to disguise inaccessible chisel marks, by punching multiple overlapping dents and create a bumpy finish.
Dremmel would be ideal for that Sanding Stu, great Vid as always👌
looks like oacillating multi tool would be handy here good vid THANX!
❤️❤️❤️ The sawdust tip 👍👍 I've done the same with brick dust
Great idea, what glue do you use on brickwork Paul?
@@nigelarthur1281 cement not glue 😂😂😂 unless there lego bricks
@@paul_my_plumbs_uk 😂 cheers!
Brick dust and cement for patching brick walls. Thats actually clever.
Splendid job Stuart, it's on the brink of professional carpentry, mind you! :):)
Thanks for sharing this with us, Stuart. Your approach is solid as always.
Really cool technique with the sawdust!
nice detail at 10:42 of raising the volume when removing the ear piece!
Hi Stewart, this is the first of your videos I have seen.
Very nice work, I have now subscribed to your channel and will soon catch up on some of your other videos.
Welcome aboard!
@@ProperDIY Thank you. I recently moved to Türkiye and lost the workshop I had in England. I am in the process of setting up a small workshop and finding the best places to buy timber.
Youve done a lovely job of this sign 😀👍🏻
Amazing craftsmanship
Would be amazing if you do a cnc routing/laser machine video !
Great tip using the sawdust and glue.
That’s a great trick lm a carpenter /joiner and lm impressed well done the sign looks great 👍
Thanks for an excellent video 👏 I do like your “bottoming”technique, it could work well with a contrasting medium.
Love your attention to detail. When you used the knife to cut the point on the stars you could have stuck some tape on the knife to protect it when using the hammer
Learning loads from you, but it’s going to cost me as I need to invest in some new tools! Thank you for this content
Thats lovely Stuart, really enjoyed this one……take care as always from south africa
I love this sign and the original way that you used to cover the bottom of the carved letters.
I'm going to call it "The PD Method". It's got certain ring to it, don't you think?
I found you via the collaboration with Keith Brown and I'm happy that I did. I am a new subscriber. Thanks for the video.
Thank you pt eddie! 'Tge PD Method' has a great ring to it - thank you.
Good work boy , small grinder also work good on small areas
Great work!
Just a tip that I use - I put painters tape on the board then do the outline of the letters. It peals of very cleanly.
Well that turned out nicely Stuart. It's been really good to track your progression in the world of UA-cam! I'm sure Luca and family will love the sign.
LUCA - Last Universal Common Ancestor!
Different coloured sawdust could look really good as well. It would make the letters really stand out.
Great video thanks Stuart. What big box store did you get that Oak board from?
Probably B&Q, but it's rather expensive. It will be on the 'shelving' section
I imagine that would also look really smart with a contrasting sawdust like walnut
I usually rub a piece of white chalk into the cut lines to highlight them as the scalpel / Stanley blade cuts can sometimes be too light ti see
Another great video Stuart, I am constantly amazed at each and every one of your videos, the content quality is so consistent and so clear and entertaining also. Love the tips with sign making, a true professional, Keep it going buddy!!
Nice video 🙂👍🏻
I use saw dust and glue to cover up the, usually, 2 screw holes in a ?doorstep/sill? (English is not my native language, sorry), for the last 25 years.
I mean the piece of wood at the bottom, between a doorframe 😅
Once sanded and varnished it gives you a proper o'l fashion door-look without staring at two stupid shiny screws 🧐
Never thought about using it as equaliser. Nice one... Thanks!
That's my son's name!!! ... I saw this avatar and got instantly hooked. How great is that???
I sometimes use a JCB/Stanley knife when routing signs to help with crisp sharp corners. Instead of using a claw hammer, I use my homemade wooden mallet. Does the job just grate and lowers the risk of damaging the knife when using the claw hammer. Not a criticism in any way, just a helpful tip I hope.
Have you tried a Dremel tool ? I think it would be useful for sanding the bottom insides of the letters.👍
Hello Stuart, another good video thanks. I would have used carbon paper to transfer the lines of the letters on the the wood. And can I suggest that if you want to make the bottom of the letter nice and flat, mix the sawdust with the glue first then pour it into the letters and it will fine it's own level
Nice video. Another way to finish the bottom would be to use paint and a syringe. You could 'syringe' the paint into the bottom creating a flat surface by filling the imperfections with paint. Also you cold use a 'Dremmell' type tool for sanding inside the letters. It could save you losing the will to live... Haha...
Clear resin would finish it off nicely 👍
Great vid again Stuart. A link or mention of the router bit and size would be great. All the best.
Wow - you've found a way to imitate chipboard using oak :)
😆 Yes thats what i thought when i saw those bottoms. Still it looks ok..
Hi
The sawdust&glue trick is used
By woodturners on the lathe to
Cover up in perfections all the time
All the very best
John
Amzing idea, I already wondered how you got that bottom so rippeld on your logo on the bench. Must have taken quite some time to make, but worth it!
Fanbloodytastic Stuart nice trick with the sawdust 👍👨🏻🏭
I was doing something similar last weekend - but I used a Pritt stick to stick the paper to the wood (putting the glue onto the wood. Apart from being cheaper, it is water soluble so I think my cleanup was probably easier.
Great tutorial, Stuart, thanks a lot. Many of us use a MIX of glue & sawdust to hide mistakes, but, I have NEVER seen it used like this as a, quite unique, finish and it is a great idea. Apologies if this has been asked already , but, what router bit did you use?
I've done that same trick myself to fill in routed patterns, the only thing I done different was I thinned the PVA glue so that it ran into the bottom easier and I didn't need to brush it as much (in my case push it around with a small bit of wood). once danish oil was applied the saw dust bottoms go very dark and stand out more.
I think next time I'll attach the dust extractor tho, for all it seems to hamper visibility the lack of sawdust obstructing the said same has to be worth it.
Fascinating that people still do this, in an age of CNC mills...
It's because I don't need to spend £2k first to do it.
More great content from this fabulous channel.
Nice one Stuart
Super job, looks great
The sign looks great! … and not least because of the „rough ground“ of the signs.
Another great video Stuart :) keep up the good work learned lots from your videos 👍
Have you ever used resin to fill in the letters?that'd look awesome.
I find if i used sawdust and glue mix ( PVA ) especially on oak when it dries it dries up black! Do you use a different type of glue?
Great vid! What size router bit did you use please?
Where did you get the router built into workbench from?
Beautiful job Stuart
Do you have a Dremel? With the hundreds of various bits you could have really gone to town and made your life so much easier at the same time. Regardless sometimes the manual way is more satisfying and the piece looks fantastic!
Good job 👌
G'day from Down Under, Stuart. Love your videos. However, I have a question, which you may have answered at one time or another ....... but, if you make a few of these signs, wouldn't it be a good idea to get yourself a CNC machine? Just curious, is all. 🇦🇺🇬🇧👍🍺🍺
TRy mirroring the text and transfer the text to the wood,...... You need to add a water-soluble varnish to PVA glue (making the same as a brand name 'Mod Podge') to glue the printed text to the wood When dry wet the paper and rub it off leaving the text on the wood. This is how we put photos onto wood
Great video.
Hi Stuart, when you mentioned you got the oak from a local DIY, can you say which one?
Yes it was B&Q. They have a small section with all types of oak planks etc
I don't know what kind of router bit you used. I think a down cutting spiral bit would have made some smoother edges on the letters. They cut from the top down and won't splinter the edges like you got.
What type of router bit did you use?
The author does like to from scratch, ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.
Hi Stuart, been following your channel for a while, lovely job on the sign. I would love to see you review a Dremel or similar multi tool I reckon it could be very handy for you. 😉
p.s the mrs wants to know what's in the shed in the paddock, she's not very patient 🤣 keep up the good work 👏
Menn, that workbench looks exactly like mine.
A 1/4 inch C N C bit saves the Stanley knife cutting .. then router the middle away
If you have a laser printer, print the word in reverse, place printed copy face down on wood and using a hot iron run across paper and the toner will adhere to the wood.
Can you make me one too? I would like one that says "Kraftfahrzeug-Haftpflichtversicherung" for my archive. Stars optional!
Look at UA-cam videos of transferring an image like yours onto wood using white glue and similar. You could then cut it out using the letters as a template.
My wife: honey, why is there a bucket of sawdust in a bottle of glue in the bedroom?
My answer: I’m getting ready to tidy up my uneven bottom.
Man glitter!
Wow, just wait until this guy discovers CNC. I have a trick for the letters too. It's called a torch.
I ended up with some lovely Oak shelves after a local supplier used the US spelling for centre.
Bit of a side question, could you have used glitter rather than saw dust to line the bottom of the letters and then add a couple of mm of clear epoxy?
"Licence Plate" and "kindergarden" ? hmmm somebody has been analysing their viewer demographics.
I would use tracing paper/carbon paper
@@MKRM27 You can also inject print on to tracing paper...great videos aren't they!!!
At least the winner's child only had 4 letters in their name! Fix!😂