A technique I came across years ago (not my idea) for transferring laser (not inkjet) printed patterns to wood is to print it reversed then place it print side down on the wood and secure with masking tape. Use an iron on the hottest setting with no steam to melt the toner, which will transfer to the wood.
The way you transfer the lettering to wood or any other surface is to chalk the back of the paper then draw the outline of the lettering or shapes. This is the way I was taught 40+ years ago when leaning to signwrite at Hammersmith College. Just use masking tape to hold the paper in place.
I’ve got to hand it to you Stuart, the sawdust and glue is very clever and looks great. I haven’t seen that before so yes, I think that you can claim it as a Proper DIY exclusive!
Your work is always excellent Stuart, love your attention to detail and problem solving. Yourself and “ self sufficient me “ are my two favourite UA-cam channels. Both informative, enjoyable, relaxing with no ego or BS. Thank you Stuart for many hours of me time 👍
Great video! I love the sawdust idea at the end. I've done a fair bit of letter carving just without a router. I put a sheet of carbon paper between the printed letters and the wood then go over it with a pencil to transfer the shapes to the wood.
I just recently discovered your channel and must say it’s great. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. As a DIYer I learned a lot from you. Thank you.
Well that turned out nicely Stuart. It's been really good to track your progression in the world of UA-cam! I'm sure Luca and family will love the sign.
Another great video Stuart, I am constantly amazed at each and every one of your videos, the content quality is so consistent and so clear and entertaining also. Love the tips with sign making, a true professional, Keep it going buddy!!
I really like the way you did the bottoms of your lettering! I used yellow glue in the bottom of one of my lathe turned bowls as the insert I put in the center was to deep and required to much sanding to level out. The glue turned a reddish brown and saved the bowl. I just wish I had watched your video earlier. If I had I would have used the saw dust method. Thanks for the information.
"So when it comes down to sanding [...] to be honest with you, there is only so much you can do, before you just lose the will to live" pure magic. Please print that on a T-shirt!
I sometimes use a JCB/Stanley knife when routing signs to help with crisp sharp corners. Instead of using a claw hammer, I use my homemade wooden mallet. Does the job just grate and lowers the risk of damaging the knife when using the claw hammer. Not a criticism in any way, just a helpful tip I hope.
I like the idea of tapping the Stanley blade to cut into acute angles. I've used a blunted centre punch to disguise inaccessible chisel marks, by punching multiple overlapping dents and create a bumpy finish.
I was doing something similar last weekend - but I used a Pritt stick to stick the paper to the wood (putting the glue onto the wood. Apart from being cheaper, it is water soluble so I think my cleanup was probably easier.
Hello Stuart, another good video thanks. I would have used carbon paper to transfer the lines of the letters on the the wood. And can I suggest that if you want to make the bottom of the letter nice and flat, mix the sawdust with the glue first then pour it into the letters and it will fine it's own level
Hi Stewart, this is the first of your videos I have seen. Very nice work, I have now subscribed to your channel and will soon catch up on some of your other videos.
@@ProperDIY Thank you. I recently moved to Türkiye and lost the workshop I had in England. I am in the process of setting up a small workshop and finding the best places to buy timber.
I used this method first and then realized that printing the image using a laser toner and then rubbing it into the wood using cellulose tinners was much quicker. You can also purchase letter templates for routers, so you get a perfect cut.
I've done that same trick myself to fill in routed patterns, the only thing I done different was I thinned the PVA glue so that it ran into the bottom easier and I didn't need to brush it as much (in my case push it around with a small bit of wood). once danish oil was applied the saw dust bottoms go very dark and stand out more. I think next time I'll attach the dust extractor tho, for all it seems to hamper visibility the lack of sawdust obstructing the said same has to be worth it.
Love your attention to detail. When you used the knife to cut the point on the stars you could have stuck some tape on the knife to protect it when using the hammer
Nice video 🙂👍🏻 I use saw dust and glue to cover up the, usually, 2 screw holes in a ?doorstep/sill? (English is not my native language, sorry), for the last 25 years. I mean the piece of wood at the bottom, between a doorframe 😅 Once sanded and varnished it gives you a proper o'l fashion door-look without staring at two stupid shiny screws 🧐 Never thought about using it as equaliser. Nice one... Thanks!
Great tutorial, Stuart, thanks a lot. Many of us use a MIX of glue & sawdust to hide mistakes, but, I have NEVER seen it used like this as a, quite unique, finish and it is a great idea. Apologies if this has been asked already , but, what router bit did you use?
I love this sign and the original way that you used to cover the bottom of the carved letters. I'm going to call it "The PD Method". It's got certain ring to it, don't you think? I found you via the collaboration with Keith Brown and I'm happy that I did. I am a new subscriber. Thanks for the video.
Nice video. Another way to finish the bottom would be to use paint and a syringe. You could 'syringe' the paint into the bottom creating a flat surface by filling the imperfections with paint. Also you cold use a 'Dremmell' type tool for sanding inside the letters. It could save you losing the will to live... Haha...
Beautiful job Stuart Do you have a Dremel? With the hundreds of various bits you could have really gone to town and made your life so much easier at the same time. Regardless sometimes the manual way is more satisfying and the piece looks fantastic!
TRy mirroring the text and transfer the text to the wood,...... You need to add a water-soluble varnish to PVA glue (making the same as a brand name 'Mod Podge') to glue the printed text to the wood When dry wet the paper and rub it off leaving the text on the wood. This is how we put photos onto wood
I don't know what kind of router bit you used. I think a down cutting spiral bit would have made some smoother edges on the letters. They cut from the top down and won't splinter the edges like you got.
If you have a laser printer, print the word in reverse, place printed copy face down on wood and using a hot iron run across paper and the toner will adhere to the wood.
G'day from Down Under, Stuart. Love your videos. However, I have a question, which you may have answered at one time or another ....... but, if you make a few of these signs, wouldn't it be a good idea to get yourself a CNC machine? Just curious, is all. 🇦🇺🇬🇧👍🍺🍺
Hi Stuart, been following your channel for a while, lovely job on the sign. I would love to see you review a Dremel or similar multi tool I reckon it could be very handy for you. 😉 p.s the mrs wants to know what's in the shed in the paddock, she's not very patient 🤣 keep up the good work 👏
The author does like to from scratch, ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.
Look at UA-cam videos of transferring an image like yours onto wood using white glue and similar. You could then cut it out using the letters as a template.
Editing the vacuum sound to be louder when you took your ear protection off was a nice touch! 10:40
Deserves a time stamp! 10:40
Classic PD touch,
@@stuartday1876 I agree! Added one!
No one likes an uneven bottom, you sir are a true professional in everything you do. Fantastic channel, keep going Stuart……
I like bubblebuttts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
A technique I came across years ago (not my idea) for transferring laser (not inkjet) printed patterns to wood is to print it reversed then place it print side down on the wood and secure with masking tape. Use an iron on the hottest setting with no steam to melt the toner, which will transfer to the wood.
The way you transfer the lettering to wood or any other surface is to chalk the back of the paper then draw the outline of the lettering or shapes. This is the way I was taught 40+ years ago when leaning to signwrite at Hammersmith College. Just use masking tape to hold the paper in place.
I wish all videos were made as clear as yours Stuart, thank you for such great content.
I'm a hobby woodworker and I love learning new techniques so this has been very helpful.
I’ve got to hand it to you Stuart, the sawdust and glue is very clever and looks great. I haven’t seen that before so yes, I think that you can claim it as a Proper DIY exclusive!
Your work is always excellent Stuart, love your attention to detail and problem solving. Yourself and “ self sufficient me “ are my two favourite UA-cam channels. Both informative, enjoyable, relaxing with no ego or BS. Thank you Stuart for many hours of me time 👍
Great video as always. And mark if your reading this congratulations on the new baby
Very nicely done. I would not have believed such a great finish could be achieved like this. Very helpful. Thanks.
Great video! I love the sawdust idea at the end. I've done a fair bit of letter carving just without a router. I put a sheet of carbon paper between the printed letters and the wood then go over it with a pencil to transfer the shapes to the wood.
I just recently discovered your channel and must say it’s great. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. As a DIYer I learned a lot from you. Thank you.
I absolutely LOVE your sawdust tip! I will use it EVERYDAY!!!
The sawdust fill is a great idea. Thanks for enlightening us!
Ooh! Stuart- so glad you covered-up your uneven bottom! ☺️
But seriously, that is a very impressive bit of carving. Thank you for your outstanding series of videos 🙏🏻
Not only a great idea but a great tutorial as well. Something that I might try in the future. Cheers Stuart.
Well that turned out nicely Stuart. It's been really good to track your progression in the world of UA-cam! I'm sure Luca and family will love the sign.
Thanks for sharing this with us, Stuart. Your approach is solid as always.
Really cool technique with the sawdust!
❤️❤️❤️ The sawdust tip 👍👍 I've done the same with brick dust
Great idea, what glue do you use on brickwork Paul?
@@nigelarthur1281 cement not glue 😂😂😂 unless there lego bricks
@@paul_my_plumbs_uk 😂 cheers!
Brick dust and cement for patching brick walls. Thats actually clever.
I like the saw dust trick. Definitely the hardest bit of the project 👍🏻
Another great video Stuart, I am constantly amazed at each and every one of your videos, the content quality is so consistent and so clear and entertaining also. Love the tips with sign making, a true professional, Keep it going buddy!!
An awesome job there Stuart, and some really helpful pointers along the way as well.
Your channel presentation and content is excellent, very professional.
Thanks Stuart! 🇬🇧🏴👍🏻
Much appreciated!
That’s a great trick lm a carpenter /joiner and lm impressed well done the sign looks great 👍
Dremmel would be ideal for that Sanding Stu, great Vid as always👌
I really like the way you did the bottoms of your lettering! I used yellow glue in the bottom of one of my lathe turned bowls as the insert I put in the center was to deep and required to much sanding to level out. The glue turned a reddish brown and saved the bowl. I just wish I had watched your video earlier. If I had I would have used the saw dust method. Thanks for the information.
Great idea with the sawdust 👏
Very nice. You are skilled with that router.
"So when it comes down to sanding [...] to be honest with you, there is only so much you can do, before you just lose the will to live" pure magic. Please print that on a T-shirt!
I sometimes use a JCB/Stanley knife when routing signs to help with crisp sharp corners. Instead of using a claw hammer, I use my homemade wooden mallet. Does the job just grate and lowers the risk of damaging the knife when using the claw hammer. Not a criticism in any way, just a helpful tip I hope.
nice detail at 10:42 of raising the volume when removing the ear piece!
I like the idea of tapping the Stanley blade to cut into acute angles. I've used a blunted centre punch to disguise inaccessible chisel marks, by punching multiple overlapping dents and create a bumpy finish.
Splendid job Stuart, it's on the brink of professional carpentry, mind you! :):)
Thanks for an excellent video 👏 I do like your “bottoming”technique, it could work well with a contrasting medium.
Thats lovely Stuart, really enjoyed this one……take care as always from south africa
Beautiful job 👍
Youve done a lovely job of this sign 😀👍🏻
More great content from this fabulous channel.
Nice one Stuart
Great tip using the sawdust and glue.
I was doing something similar last weekend - but I used a Pritt stick to stick the paper to the wood (putting the glue onto the wood. Apart from being cheaper, it is water soluble so I think my cleanup was probably easier.
Just a tip that I use - I put painters tape on the board then do the outline of the letters. It peals of very cleanly.
Great work!
Fanbloodytastic Stuart nice trick with the sawdust 👍👨🏻🏭
Hello Stuart, another good video thanks. I would have used carbon paper to transfer the lines of the letters on the the wood. And can I suggest that if you want to make the bottom of the letter nice and flat, mix the sawdust with the glue first then pour it into the letters and it will fine it's own level
Super job, looks great
Different coloured sawdust could look really good as well. It would make the letters really stand out.
Another great video Stuart :) keep up the good work learned lots from your videos 👍
looks like oacillating multi tool would be handy here good vid THANX!
Great video thanks Stuart. What big box store did you get that Oak board from?
Probably B&Q, but it's rather expensive. It will be on the 'shelving' section
Hi Stewart, this is the first of your videos I have seen.
Very nice work, I have now subscribed to your channel and will soon catch up on some of your other videos.
Welcome aboard!
@@ProperDIY Thank you. I recently moved to Türkiye and lost the workshop I had in England. I am in the process of setting up a small workshop and finding the best places to buy timber.
Great vid again Stuart. A link or mention of the router bit and size would be great. All the best.
I used this method first and then realized that printing the image using a laser toner and then rubbing it into the wood using cellulose tinners was much quicker. You can also purchase letter templates for routers, so you get a perfect cut.
I've done that same trick myself to fill in routed patterns, the only thing I done different was I thinned the PVA glue so that it ran into the bottom easier and I didn't need to brush it as much (in my case push it around with a small bit of wood). once danish oil was applied the saw dust bottoms go very dark and stand out more.
I think next time I'll attach the dust extractor tho, for all it seems to hamper visibility the lack of sawdust obstructing the said same has to be worth it.
Love your attention to detail. When you used the knife to cut the point on the stars you could have stuck some tape on the knife to protect it when using the hammer
I imagine that would also look really smart with a contrasting sawdust like walnut
Amazing craftsmanship
Would be amazing if you do a cnc routing/laser machine video !
Amzing idea, I already wondered how you got that bottom so rippeld on your logo on the bench. Must have taken quite some time to make, but worth it!
LUCA - Last Universal Common Ancestor!
Learning loads from you, but it’s going to cost me as I need to invest in some new tools! Thank you for this content
Good work boy , small grinder also work good on small areas
Nice video 🙂👍🏻
I use saw dust and glue to cover up the, usually, 2 screw holes in a ?doorstep/sill? (English is not my native language, sorry), for the last 25 years.
I mean the piece of wood at the bottom, between a doorframe 😅
Once sanded and varnished it gives you a proper o'l fashion door-look without staring at two stupid shiny screws 🧐
Never thought about using it as equaliser. Nice one... Thanks!
Clear resin would finish it off nicely 👍
Hi
The sawdust&glue trick is used
By woodturners on the lathe to
Cover up in perfections all the time
All the very best
John
I usually rub a piece of white chalk into the cut lines to highlight them as the scalpel / Stanley blade cuts can sometimes be too light ti see
Great tutorial, Stuart, thanks a lot. Many of us use a MIX of glue & sawdust to hide mistakes, but, I have NEVER seen it used like this as a, quite unique, finish and it is a great idea. Apologies if this has been asked already , but, what router bit did you use?
I love this sign and the original way that you used to cover the bottom of the carved letters.
I'm going to call it "The PD Method". It's got certain ring to it, don't you think?
I found you via the collaboration with Keith Brown and I'm happy that I did. I am a new subscriber. Thanks for the video.
Thank you pt eddie! 'Tge PD Method' has a great ring to it - thank you.
Have you tried a Dremel tool ? I think it would be useful for sanding the bottom insides of the letters.👍
Thanks, Stuart!
That's my son's name!!! ... I saw this avatar and got instantly hooked. How great is that???
Great vid! What size router bit did you use please?
Wow - you've found a way to imitate chipboard using oak :)
😆 Yes thats what i thought when i saw those bottoms. Still it looks ok..
Good job 👌
Great video.
Nice video. Another way to finish the bottom would be to use paint and a syringe. You could 'syringe' the paint into the bottom creating a flat surface by filling the imperfections with paint. Also you cold use a 'Dremmell' type tool for sanding inside the letters. It could save you losing the will to live... Haha...
Have you ever used resin to fill in the letters?that'd look awesome.
Fascinating that people still do this, in an age of CNC mills...
It's because I don't need to spend £2k first to do it.
The sign looks great! … and not least because of the „rough ground“ of the signs.
I find if i used sawdust and glue mix ( PVA ) especially on oak when it dries it dries up black! Do you use a different type of glue?
Beautiful job Stuart
Do you have a Dremel? With the hundreds of various bits you could have really gone to town and made your life so much easier at the same time. Regardless sometimes the manual way is more satisfying and the piece looks fantastic!
TRy mirroring the text and transfer the text to the wood,...... You need to add a water-soluble varnish to PVA glue (making the same as a brand name 'Mod Podge') to glue the printed text to the wood When dry wet the paper and rub it off leaving the text on the wood. This is how we put photos onto wood
Menn, that workbench looks exactly like mine.
Where did you get the router built into workbench from?
I don't know what kind of router bit you used. I think a down cutting spiral bit would have made some smoother edges on the letters. They cut from the top down and won't splinter the edges like you got.
What type of router bit did you use?
If you have a laser printer, print the word in reverse, place printed copy face down on wood and using a hot iron run across paper and the toner will adhere to the wood.
G'day from Down Under, Stuart. Love your videos. However, I have a question, which you may have answered at one time or another ....... but, if you make a few of these signs, wouldn't it be a good idea to get yourself a CNC machine? Just curious, is all. 🇦🇺🇬🇧👍🍺🍺
Hi Stuart, been following your channel for a while, lovely job on the sign. I would love to see you review a Dremel or similar multi tool I reckon it could be very handy for you. 😉
p.s the mrs wants to know what's in the shed in the paddock, she's not very patient 🤣 keep up the good work 👏
Man glitter!
Hi Stuart, when you mentioned you got the oak from a local DIY, can you say which one?
Yes it was B&Q. They have a small section with all types of oak planks etc
The author does like to from scratch, ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.
My wife: honey, why is there a bucket of sawdust in a bottle of glue in the bedroom?
My answer: I’m getting ready to tidy up my uneven bottom.
A 1/4 inch C N C bit saves the Stanley knife cutting .. then router the middle away
Can you make me one too? I would like one that says "Kraftfahrzeug-Haftpflichtversicherung" for my archive. Stars optional!
Look at UA-cam videos of transferring an image like yours onto wood using white glue and similar. You could then cut it out using the letters as a template.
Wow, just wait until this guy discovers CNC. I have a trick for the letters too. It's called a torch.
I would use tracing paper/carbon paper
@@Macron87 You can also inject print on to tracing paper...great videos aren't they!!!
At least the winner's child only had 4 letters in their name! Fix!😂
I ended up with some lovely Oak shelves after a local supplier used the US spelling for centre.
Through Tang Gang.
"Licence Plate" and "kindergarden" ? hmmm somebody has been analysing their viewer demographics.