Ford F350 Powerstroke 7.3 OBS Hydroboost Brake Conversion Upgrade (1992-1998)
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2021
- Here is the step by step process of converting a original OBS vacuum brake system to a hydroboost unit.
You will need the following:
Gates 366200 Power Steering Pressure Line Hose Assembly
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Gates 365930 Power Steering Pressure Line Hose Assembly
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Duralast Remanufactured Brake Power Booster 52-7079
www.autozone.com/brakes-and-t...
EDELMANN 6014R Power Steering Pump
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....
CARDONE 132690 Includes Reservoir
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/f...
(These depend if you have cruise control or disk/drum setups)
OEMTOOLS 25298 Pulley Puller and Installer Kit
www.autozone.com/test-scan-an...
Prestone Power Steering Fluid 32oz
www.autozone.com/brake-and-po...
8' of 3/8" Power steering Return Hose 350010
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.... - Авто та транспорт
There is a lot of questions on what parts to order. I am working on cross referencing part numbers to get you guys the correct ones. Here is what I found:
MASTER CYLINDER: I ordered mine for a 1997 Ford F-350 7.3 Diesel. They have lots of parts listed here, it depends on your wheel base and if you have cruise control equipped, 4WD, dually, and if you want the physical reservoir. I ordered the Raybestos MS390338. I have 4WD, SRW, and cruise control equipped. It may be different for you. This is where the 1 1/4" thing was stamped.
HYDROBOOST UNIT: I was lucky enough to get mine from autozone. I must have been one of the last people to buy the Duralast 52-7079. I bought it as if I had a 1997 F-350 1 ton diesel. I did not return a core and just ate the core charge. It seems like rockauto does still have these units in stock here: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1997,f-350,7.3l+v8+diesel+turbocharged,1127090,brake+&+wheel+hub,power+brake+booster,1884
I don't know how long they will last as it seems parts availability is scarce now. I will try to dig up more sources.
PROPORTIONING VALVE: I have had no issues so far with the current setup that comes with the master cylinder. I may swap my back brakes over to discs now, but I have not blown out a rear wheel cylinder yet from this swap.
I will make a follow up video to show you guys better details on what I did, how I routed things, and part numbers to help clarify some things on this project. Stay tuned!
So are all these part #s correct? I’m about to do this swap
Question I have 1996 f350 manual transmission 5 speed, does it make a difference thx, I wanna put that on and see if does make a difference cause there is a lot of travel thx
@@jamessmith-or8hw Nope, as far as I know, there is no difference if it is manual or auto.
Hands down one of the best install/how to videos I’ve seen. Your attention to detail is awesome and thanks for providing the part numbers. Just bought an OBS and this will be one of the brakes and steering are going to be one of the first overhauls.
Great video, just what I was looking for ;)
Great video!! Probably one of the best instructional video out there.
Great video, another project to add to the list for me!!
This is a great conversion. I did it to my '95 F350 with 351W about eleven years ago and was able to also convert the PS pump from the Ford unit to a Saginaw but I do not know if such is an option for the diesel folks. Kudos for using the proper pump housing with the second return line! There are some who promote the idea of simply teeing both return lines together. This is not a good or safe idea as it can impede fluid return under certain circumstances and negatively affect braking and/or steering.
Few things to note that you might already know by now.
The box under the dash connected to the brake pedal is the brake switch. It is what turns on your brake lights. Also on the E4OD trucks, if it gets signal from the brake switch, it will unlock the converter.
The sensor on the front of the master cylinder is for cruise control. When you push on the brakes it pushes in that pin which disables cruise.
It doesn't look like you moved either the brake pedal pin, or the hydroboost mounting location. As you can see when you're under the dash trying to hook up the new hydroboost, it's not lined up. It will work like this but you're binding the system. You either need to move the pin on the brake pedal up 5/8" or you can redrill/grind down the bolt holes on the firewall 5/8".
The proportioning valve for drum brakes is important because if you panic stop, you will lock up the rears but not the fronts. This is dangerous in a number of ways. You can order the correct proportioning valve using Ford PN F8UZ-2C161-AA. It's only about $70 and takes 5 minutes to install. Definitely worth the money to make sure your brakes will work correctly when you need them most.
Just did the same swap on my 1989 F350 with a leaky vacuum booster. $230 dollars later and I feel like I stop in half the distance now.
Overall good video. Subscribed!
Edit: One more thing. You don't actually need that new PS pump. You can put a tee on the hydroboost to PS reservoir return line and hook the steering box return into that. You just need to make sure that the hydroboost return to PS Pump is your "straight shot" and that your steering box return tees into it, otherwise you'll have issues.
It's probably a good idea to replace the PS pump anyways, but just letting viewers of this video down the road that it's not required. Especially because that 2 return steering pump reservoir is getting harder and harder to find. You also have the option of grabbing a reservoir (or the whole pump) off of an F SuperDuty with the Hydroboost.
Thank you for the info, I'm finding mixed things online about the proportioning valve. I used all parts form a "1997 F Superduty", I know parts change for the "2003 F Superduty" models. What master cylinder did you get yours from? Also, the old proportioning valve is different threads than the ones on the new master cylinder.
Thanks!
@@E30Source Mine came off a 1990 F Superduty. All F Superduty's came with 4 wheel disc brakes (Dana 80).
The part number (F8UZ-2C161-AA) for the proportioning valve is the correct application for bricknose/OBS trucks with rear drum brakes for a hydroboost unit
My factory (1989 F350) proportioning valve would not fit the hydroboost, but that new part fit both the hydroboost and brake lines.
You sir seem to know what you're talking about. I've been thinking about doing the swap for some time so I can have a solid and responsive brake pedal much like my 01 cummins. My truck is a 1994 f250 E4OD and it may be to your surprised but it is a 460, not a 7.3l. The design of the power steering pumps on both engines look the same, even down to the reservoir itself. I seized an opportunity at the junkyard the other day and grabbed a hydroboost off of a 10th gen SD which was a 1 ton dually. Would you believe I gave 20 bucks for it? 10 for master and 10 for booster. I love that junkyard because there's mostly old trucks there so they aren't horribly priced on stuff. So as far as I've read so far the pump is the same as the ones they used on the late model OBS F-series trucks with the 7.3l, so it should bolt right in. The pressure line up to the hydroboost threads into the same spot on the PS pump, then the pressure line off of the hydroboost to the steering box itself is the same. Only line that is modularity different is the return to the reservoir which just angles down on mine while it angles upward on the 7.3l power steering. Before I pulled it from the truck I had my friend stand on the pedal as hard as he could and I seen no signs of leakage. I also don't like the idea of adding a used system into my power steering system as that could introduce my pump to some unexpected debris from the SD truck. Thinking about slightly disassembling the booster, or what could I run into it to clean it out as much as I can? And since this hydroboost isn't from a f450 could I go without the other proportioning valve? Also, my truck is a 94 and new enough to have rear ABS only, wouldn't it prevent rear tires from locking in a panic stop or would the hydroboost not give a shit? One more question. Is it possible to add all 4 wheel ABS to the OBS trucks using parts from the super duty? I've been thinking about that for a long time now.
The general purpose for me wanting to do this is because I'm sick of having to pump my brakes for a firm pedal to stop with. It'll still stop just fine even if I don't pump it but the pedal sinks. I've bled the system multiple times and manually adjusted my drums, and the automatic adjuster isn't rusted a bit. It's functional. I also use this truck for local towing as a choice over my Cummins because it has 4.10s while the dodge has 3.55s. If I tow out of state I take the Cummins for mpg, and power at 70 and up because of the turbo. If it hits 60 on a hill with a load it's a done deal until downshift 🤣
Hey Daniel, would you happen to know the ford part number for the 4-wheel disk brake proportioning valve? I did the 05 axle conversion. If I go into a NAPA can I get all these parts saying I have a 97 F-Superduty?
@@travisb6520 yup. Anything 1988-1997 FSuperDuty. It’s discontinued but this is the Ford PN E8TZ-2B547-B
Very informative. Thanks👍🏻👍🏻
Nice to see you back !!! Job well done as always!!
I put the 1 5/16 master cylinder on my truck over the past year, and I like it a lot. It is definitely more responsive than the 1 1/4 was and I think after I replace the rabs unit this spring what I have will be good enough. That said, I really like the idea of going to the hydroboost and may still do that in the future.
Great video man thanks!!
great video, keep it up, i suscribed
Nice video and thanks for listing all the part numbers and links. One thing I will add for those that don't have the money to do this and still need to fix their trucks. Go ahead and replace your rear brake cylinders and properly adjust your brake shoes first. You would be surprised how many times this fixes a soft pedal or the increased distance that is needed to stop your truck. Many times guys will replace their master cylinders and still not have a good pedal or brake response and it was the rear cylinders all along.
Saved and subbed 👍
So I ran in to the same hose style issue recently, all the auto parts stores told me I was crazy, and after 3 hours of trying to figure out why I couldn't get the stupid nut to catch the threads because the new house I had purchased had the extra bit of metal tube protruding into the whole in the steering box, after comparing the new and the old hose, it was clear that, well, that bit of metal needed to be gone... so very carefully it was cut off with a grinder, filed to make sure inner diameter was the same, and flushed with acetone and then power steering fluid while still not installed to make sure no shavings made it into the system... so far its working without issues..
Great vid, commenting to help your algorithm because I found two vids that were worse before this one🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽
This is great. I seem to remember that the wider hydroboost is from a newer superduty as opposed to a F superduty (the OBS F450)? Thank you for the video either way.
Good job
Be very careful in an emergency stopping situation. The new proportion valve is designed for a F-450 that can take more pressure than a 250/350 can. I had a new wheel cylinder blow apart during a really hard braking application. I’ve since converted to rear disc and never an issue with four years braking.
I ended up using the new one because the threads are different on the old one, have you found the p/n for the correct one?
@@E30Source I found that an 02-06 F250 is the correct valve.
@@amatthews8827 I'm contemplating this swap and I got a good used hydro from an early 2000s f350 for a nice price that I couldn't walk away from. My truck is a 1994 f250 and I've read that the NBS SD trucks use the same hydroboost as the late model OBS F-series trucks so I grabbed it with no second thought. Do you know if this would be an issue with over pressurizing my rear brakes and causing issues? It's just a newer truck and a 1 ton. ¾ ton is 100% the same as 1 ton as far as ford goes. Just some base model stuff on 1 tons that are optional for ¾ tons from factory. My truck is a 1994 f250 with a 460 and I'm just kind of sick of having to pump my pedal once to have more braking power. If I pump it twice it's solid like I want it to be. New Master cylinder as of 3 years ago because the factory one failed, bled the lines multiple times and manually adjusted my drum brakes and still have to pump it once for solid pedal and reactive braking capability. The other reason I've been wanting to do this swap is because I also have a 2001 ram 250p 24v cummins, hydroboost of course. I like the firm pedal. Any advice before I fuck something up, then I'd be grateful. Thank you.
How did u convert from drum breaks to disk???
Great video! Thank you for all the info.
What is the vacuum pump used for, now that you don't need it for the brakes
WHEN DOING THIS SWAP YOU MUST RAISE THE PIN ON YOUR BRAKE PEDAL 7/8 ths OF AN INCH , PEDAL IS DIFFERENT ON HYDRO - BOOST TRUCKS !!!
Tanks!
Does the power steering reservoir hold enough fluid to move the steering wheel and brake at the same time? It's always my issue when doing hydroboost on classics, so we tend to add a remote reservoir.
Nice 👍
Thanks for sharing your swap. I have an 86 Bronco that has had its entire brake system upgraded to new parts. Lines and all. And im still not happy with the long travel mushy brake pedal feel. Ive been wanting to do a Hydro boost conversion. I think this just made my decision to do it sooner than later. I just have to figure out the power steering pump. Mine is still a V drive set up. My unit and bracket is different.
Did you replace the rear brake cylinders and properly adjust your brake shoes? If not this is an inexpensive repair and usually fixes your described pedal feel.
@@ecleveland1 yes. Twice! The pass rear had a issue. So i changed both out a second time. Even raised the front of the vehicle a few inches to let any possible air work its way up overnight. And bled again.
You should put disc's on the rear now. with the parts sourced from Amazon it will only run about $250 and work great with the hydroboost.
Do you still have your bronzit 325is? Miss seeing videos on it, but still a great video about fixing an obs!
The extra fitting on ps pump reservoir is the return fitting
The two orings are for the hydro pressure lines
Do you know the size / thread pitch of the ports on the steering gear box?
So I completed everything and what fluid do u recommend
How’s it been running any updates or issues?
So i never seen a list for part numbers do you still have them
What about the hvac? Dosent the air pump go to the hvac aswell? If deleted how would the heat and ac work? Thanks
I I
Ordered the master but having the same issues of what one fits I got mine for the make and model it doesn't fit what part number did u use for ur master
This is for non cruise control? If so what part do I need if my truck has cruise control?
would the 52-7362 cardone work?
The only problem I saw with this video is that the 1-5/16" provides more pressure than the 1-1/4". Its actually the opposite, but being a 16th larger. Probably wont see a difference but a smaller piston provides higher pressure.
Have you kept the rabs unit or did you delete it?
Would this work on a bullnose ford
Hey can you share the parts # or website where I can get this kit? Thanks.
does that hydro comes with the internal piston? and springs?
11:44 sorry sir I think you misspoke, because the longer one would go to the steering box but you pointed to the pump. You may have gotten confused tracing the lines perhaps?
What about the part numbers?
Can i get a video like this for a 99-01??
Hi Dan, a great video, thank you! I have almost finished my conversion, and I have a question. Can you confirm the hose driver side of the hydro (part n. 71442) goes to the steering pump and the hose passenger side (71416) goes to the steering block? Many thanks
Hi Antonio, I used Gates part numbers:
366200 and 365930 for my hoses.
@@E30Source Thank you! My question was not posed correctly. Part n. 366200 goes from the driver's side of the hydro to the steering pump and part n. 365930 goes from the passenger side of the hydro to the steering box. In the video, you said the opposite, but I am not sure.
I can’t find the booster and the master cylinder that will actually mate together, I have been researching and trying to figure out which one I need to exchange. But the master cylinder bolt pattern is close together and the booster is too wide.
@E30source
I did rear disk conversion and every time I stop It feels like I never bled the brakes no one says anything about this
I ordered the exact list in your comments and I’m having the same issue you had, the master cylinder studs aren’t the correct width? Hydro 527079 and master 132690. Any advice or updated part number would be awesome!
It's so weird because those are the part numbers exactly what I ordered. I got my hydroboost unit from autozone after I found the span was different. Did you see my recent pinned comment on this video?
if i were to search the junk yards for the power booster which years would I find it on? The 99-02 powerstrokes?
Get all your parts from a 1997 F-53 (how they list it from advance/autozone)
*correction 1997 F-350
What is going on appreciate the video. I am having trouble finding the master cylinder and reservior, based on the Cardone number that you listed that doesn't appear to be correct per their spec sheet as it says the bore is 1 1/8. any help would be great, thanks
The one I used off an F-450 is CARDONE 134015, and is the non-cruise unit. I also have a 7.5, so I don't know if the diesel is different.
The master I put the link so that if you do/or do not have cruise. It really depends what you have setup already.
Do you have the part number for the master cylinder that has the wider bolt holes? Thanks in advance. Great video
I ran into the same issue with my master cylinder not lining up with the hydroboost. Any chance the hydroboost part# was different then in the link. Thanks for the video.
Same here. I ordered the part numbers posted in the video.
I not a expert going up In size normally will increase your pressure on the mater cylinder but your going to a hydroboost unit that will increase your pressure. . I in the same boat as you I going to install a hydroboost system on my second generation dodge ram . I did not go to a salvage yard and I should have and got the complete unit . Piecing it together is a deal or was for me .... May things can bite you in the butt . For one the rod length between master and hydroboost. That needs to be correct length..also on my dodge I did not realize there is a spacer that goes between the two units . It clocks and set the correct depth ..at ant rate I finally I think got past those problems. Should have got a complete unit from a salvage yard . Can not get the correct parts from factory as there no long made . So going to use an fitting from the bump tube o ring to number 6 an or jic
I've heard you need a new pedal assembly. Is that true?
That is not necessarily true and it depends on if the push rod is level, which depends on the exact hydro boost you use because of the mounting bracket. I got both a used junkyard and a new one for 90's F450 and the firewall mounting brackets were different on both. One placed the hydro unit further up on the firewall and the other was in the same mounting location as the original vacuum booster. Using that bracket the pushrod was pretty much horizontal to the pedal and there was no need for a SuperDuty brake pedal or redrilling and remounting the pushrod pin.
Do you have all the part numbers so I can order them please
i hope you found it, there in the video description!
Old video I know so dunno if you will respond but you stated in the vid there is speculation about wether or not the booster will come with the retaining kit and return spring but you never actually specified if it did or not and where to find it if it doesn’t since you are supposed to reuse what you don’t actually have.
Hi Donny, yes it did come with the spring and retainer. They're pretty packed in there so I'm not sure how easy it would be to pull them out.
Hey I purchased the hydroboost master cylinder combo you listed /my master cylinder will not mate to hydroboost. bolt pattern wrong HELP
Were you able to get it?
@@E30Source nop
@@E30Source nope I have a mess. My hydroboost bolt pattern is the wide one and I believe my hoses are sending the pressure to the wrong side of the hydroboost. And you cannot switchthe hose positions. Filed the master cylinder so it will work. ???? Used your part #s
@@E30Source I'm in business. Filed the master cylinder eye holes. Now it works, good
Any issues with the HVAC controls not working?
I haven't, what kind of problems are you having?
@@E30Source haven't done the conversion yet, just asking to see if the plug for the vacuum line is working so the HVAC still works. Great solution rather than delete the pump and add an electrical vacuum pump.
@@Thetjspecial13 Yea the plug works for the vacuum system. There's a mod I found out there I forget where I saw it, but you plug a vacuum line that goes to the HVAC and it actually makes the A/C even colder. I will try to dig it up.
your master cylinder part number is incorrect and takes you to an even smaller than stock. Stock bore is 1.25, i noticed the stamp on yours that you have in the truck which is 1.31... the part number you included is 1.125
Thanks or the video just what I was looking for, only I am still a bit confused on the correct part number for the master cylinderany clarification whole be much appreciated
Interesting, I'm looking at the part numbers on rock auto, I thought I included the one that I used, my bore was 1 1/8" on my old one, and 1 1/4" on the new one. It depends on what configuration you have, dually, cruise control etc by what I read. Have you found any info on it?
@@cristogarzacr9181 standby, I am trying to find the correct p/n
@@E30Source were you able to find that part number? Great video by the way. Trying to convert my van. Thanks
@@holisticawakening7268 On my '97 F350, 7.5, I used CARDONE 134015.
Not a powerstroke if it is a 96 it’s an international navistar engine. The “powerstroke” didn’t start till 97
Don’t recommend hydroboost (Cardone). I swapped my 96 back to vac after just a couple months. Hydroboost blew at firewall luckily after already being slowed down and turning on a road. Complete loss of brakes and steering. Limped it a mile to destination fighting steering and borrowed a car to buy a vac booster, pump, and some 3/8” vac line and swapped it.
Sent the hydroboost back, luckily bought a warranty plan so full refund.
Yellow2000sr was the pushrod level or was it angled where it attaches to the brake pedal?