you all probably dont care but does any of you know of a method to get back into an instagram account..? I stupidly lost my login password. I love any assistance you can give me!
@Will Otto I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Hi David, just watched your video and thought it was brilliant. Will you keep us updated on it's progress/longevity? Also do you think this mix would work for casting the entire rocket heater? Another question did you use liquid or powdered water glass? Thanks.
Kaine, Google "boom squish". Besides that danger, you don't want to extract heat until AFTER the heat riser. Inside the heat riser should get as hot as possible.
Hello- I'm not trying to be a smarty pants please understand before I write. I have been watching these videos on rockets stives and have built one myself however I did not build mine as I should I guess because my heat riser is a barrel within a barrel filled with sand and everyone says that was a poor insulator. Here becomes the comment or question of what I am seeing. I have watched these builds and the claim is that the stoves burn at like 1,800 degrees and the heat is so much that these off griders light their stove for an hour in the morning and never light the stove until the next day. This is also due because they have a large mass to hold the heat but certainly building a fire at 1,800 degree will keep more heat that a stove producing 650 degrees. My stove produces a fire of 650 degrees which is what you have and you have built this the way it is said to be built - here the question ------ where's the 1,800 degree fire. I want to know so I can make that happen not to be a smarty pants. I have not been able to do that but would like to get a fire that hot, thank you
Did I miss something? I didn't see any water. That mix looked pretty dry. I understand why you packed it in there but doesn't that destroy some of the perlite?
i found no reason to remove the sheet metal after i built my riser. i just left it in place to keep the riser from falling apart over time and if/when it cracks. I would hate to pull the whole thing apart just because a chunk of riser fell and blocked things up
Dave.. What is your opinion of this mix now? Hopefully, you got time to fire it a bunch of times and can say one way or the other or what you might try next.. Did you get to work it enough to learn from it? I saw a comment that it had been sitting and not used but, you were hoping to get back into it...
Man this is so cool. I just started researching rocket heaters and this is very promising for me. I am attempting to heat a 12x20 shed. I would prefer to make something a little more modular. Fire resistant concrete is much more appealing to me than the other methods I've seen. Did this hold up?
I can't really comment on the longevity yet because I have STILL only burned a few test fires. I can't remember if I mentioned that I fired all four heat riser sections, one at a time, in my kiln. They stood up to that at least. I will comment if there is a failure in the future.
Thanks, this would be way too fragile for a Kamado. I have a Big Green Egg and couldn’t imagine creating my own mix that would be strong enough for the hinged lid. It’s probably a job for a castable refractory product.
We are looking to set up an evaporator for boiling maple sap. We have fire brick, but want something more insulating. Would this keep it's integrity as slabs to line a firebox? How hot is a firebox anyway? Thanks.
Have a nice day. I am interested in your pipe and insulation mix. It's been in loong time. How well it work in this time and how good composition mix ?
Heidi, for some reason I can't reply directly to your comment... But, I think so. The water glass sets up quickly and is intended to hold it together until firing.
prvivozac the initial burn is to harden the sodium silicate which is used as a temporary binder. You can hear the sound difference when it's fully hardened. Later each one gets fired in my pottery kiln so the clay becomes ceramic and holds it all together permanently.
Thank you for the quick answer PNW! Now I'm in the process of building, and I want to do it this way. Is it neccessarily to burn it in the pottery kiln? Because I don't have one. Can I just light the fire in the heater? Outer side of the heatriser will be cut barrel sheet so this isn't a problem, but inner side is naked. Do you have some more advice? Here I cannot buy vermiculite plate, so this seems like best solution for me.
Why not just use a ceramic (calcium silicate or similar ) industrial insulation cylinder? Far better reflectivity performance (o.4) never cracks, stronger and easier to cut or shape.
sixmagpies sixmagpies Because it's DIY and was fun to do. I'm interested in how much an 8" ID by 40"-50" tall "industrial insulation cylinder" costs though. I do have a jar of ITC 100 that I could paint on the inside for reflectivity. After the initial burn to set the sodium silicate and remove excess moisture (in this video), they were fired in my kiln (not in this video) and they came out great. Unfortunately, even though the rocket heater these were made for is functional, the backyard space it is in is not currently in use. It's been lit up with a small load of twigs maybe a handful of times over the last year or two, just for quick demonstrations. I hope to get back to it this summer and show the finished product.
Sure, a previous video shows the perlite mix I came up with. A mixture of Lincoln 60 fire clay, oatey 3000 furnace cement and homemade water glass. 1st I added a mixture of the Oatey and water glass to thinly coat the perlite, then dusted the fire clay on to coat the perlite. This gives the perlite a nice sticky layer to hold it together temporarily while ramming into the form. Then after it has come out of the form I fired the heat riser sections in my kiln so the clay can take over the job of holding it together.
From a couple failed heat riser builds, I found that I needed to be careful not to ram each layer into the form too hard, or else the next one would not bond well. Although it may appear that I'm really smashing it hard, most of the filling of the form was not. The last layer was smashed real good though. Four of these section make up the heat riser. I made it in sections for the single purpose of needing to fit in the kiln for firing.
+LimitedGunnerGM I saw a good video yesterday of a guy making fire bricks for a foundry with just sodium silicate and silica sand. I'm gonna finish my heat riser this way as mixing with perlite is becoming ever expensive due to the high compressability factor.
Great work! if you want to make the heat transfer more efficient place some flue dampers in the heat riser I'll can send you a picture if you are interested.
TIM LASHLEY I doubt it. IIRC clay cat litter is bentonite which I think swells a lot when wet, which would probably cause significant cracking while drying. This mix has sodium silicate and furnace cement as binder. After drying I fired each section in my kiln.
i am just trying to get my neurons around this method how long are they fired in a kiln and at what temp, would they get enough heat if they were incorporated into the rocket stove any thoughts would be predicated
Actually, autiemuse, my videos are made purely in the interest of sharing understanding, either with people I interact with in person or as a visual aid in a lengthy discussion where people are sharing ideas on a forum. I have zero interest in views, likes, subs or whatever. Here is a thread discussing this project- donkey32.proboards.com/thread/1298/fireclay-perlite-barrier-furnace-cement?page=1
This is a bit old, but Darwin's Honey Do Carpenter channel is up to RMH v.3 using aircrete and liquid glass; he's a bit more verbose: ua-cam.com/video/eC3MITjo8M4/v-deo.html
Excellent design and methods . Thanks for your refractory formula as well . Much appreciated Mr. Eaks .
you all probably dont care but does any of you know of a method to get back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly lost my login password. I love any assistance you can give me!
@Avery Iker instablaster :)
@Will Otto I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Will Otto It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account !
@Avery Iker happy to help =)
How did the heat riser hold up David
Best riser build I've seen. Any report on how its holding up?
I'm building a 6" ID / 12" OD, I figure overkill can't hurt.
This is a great looking job-couple of question-How did you mix in the furnace cement and how much water-thanks
Hi David,
just watched your video and thought it was brilliant. Will you keep us updated on it's progress/longevity? Also do you think this mix would work for casting the entire rocket heater? Another question did you use liquid or powdered water glass?
Thanks.
Kaine, Google "boom squish". Besides that danger, you don't want to extract heat until AFTER the heat riser. Inside the heat riser should get as hot as possible.
What is the name of the materials u used for it iam from iraq and i like to make one for me
How is the heat riser working four years later? Is it holding up?
Hello- I'm not trying to be a smarty pants please understand before I write. I have been watching these videos on rockets stives and have built one myself however I did not build mine as I should I guess because my heat riser is a barrel within a barrel filled with sand and everyone says that was a poor insulator. Here becomes the comment or question of what I am seeing. I have watched these builds and the claim is that the stoves burn at like 1,800 degrees and the heat is so much that these off griders light their stove for an hour in the morning and never light the stove until the next day. This is also due because they have a large mass to hold the heat but certainly building a fire at 1,800 degree will keep more heat that a stove producing 650 degrees. My stove produces a fire of 650 degrees which is what you have and you have built this the way it is said to be built - here the question ------ where's the 1,800 degree fire. I want to know so I can make that happen not to be a smarty pants. I have not been able to do that but would like to get a fire that hot, thank you
What are your ingredients in this build please?
Did I miss something? I didn't see any water. That mix looked pretty dry. I understand why you packed it in there but doesn't that destroy some of the perlite?
i found no reason to remove the sheet metal after i built my riser. i just left it in place to keep the riser from falling apart over time and if/when it cracks. I would hate to pull the whole thing apart just because a chunk of riser fell and blocked things up
Dave.. What is your opinion of this mix now? Hopefully, you got time to fire it a bunch of times and can say one way or the other or what you might try next.. Did you get to work it enough to learn from it? I saw a comment that it had been sitting and not used but, you were hoping to get back into it...
Man this is so cool. I just started researching rocket heaters and this is very promising for me. I am attempting to heat a 12x20 shed. I would prefer to make something a little more modular. Fire resistant concrete is much more appealing to me than the other methods I've seen. Did this hold up?
I can't really comment on the longevity yet because I have STILL only burned a few test fires. I can't remember if I mentioned that I fired all four heat riser sections, one at a time, in my kiln. They stood up to that at least. I will comment if there is a failure in the future.
very good video. you think it is possible to make a kamado with this technique or that you would change it in the mix?
Thanks, this would be way too fragile for a Kamado. I have a Big Green Egg and couldn’t imagine creating my own mix that would be strong enough for the hinged lid. It’s probably a job for a castable refractory product.
We are looking to set up an evaporator for boiling maple sap. We have fire brick, but want something more insulating. Would this keep it's integrity as slabs to line a firebox? How hot is a firebox anyway? Thanks.
Would this work for a kiln?
Have a nice day. I am interested in your pipe and insulation mix. It's been in loong time. How well it work in this time and how good composition mix ?
did it crack in use ?????????????????
Apakah tembus air?
I don't understand what this is for, would you explain please!
Heidi, for some reason I can't reply directly to your comment... But, I think so. The water glass sets up quickly and is intended to hold it together until firing.
would this recipe/riser just fall apart without the water glass?
Hello- what materials were you using for insulation? and for the inner and outer shells of your heat riser? We need some suggestions. thanks man
You can just use vermiculite and sodium silicate.
why not add copper piping round the internal heat riser...hot water creation, no pump needed heat will syphon water.
You don't want to steal heat from inside the riser if you want complete combustion to occur of the rising gases.
so the heat riser..... is that to radiate more heat from the chimney?
No, actually. Radiate less. It keeps the heat in the chimney for better drafting.
PNW please - is it neccessary to burn the riser with burner and light the fire 30 min after building the riser? Why did you do it? Thanks
prvivozac the initial burn is to harden the sodium silicate which is used as a temporary binder. You can hear the sound difference when it's fully hardened. Later each one gets fired in my pottery kiln so the clay becomes ceramic and holds it all together permanently.
Thank you for the quick answer PNW! Now I'm in the process of building, and I want to do it this way. Is it neccessarily to burn it in the pottery kiln? Because I don't have one. Can I just light the fire in the heater? Outer side of the heatriser will be cut barrel sheet so this isn't a problem, but inner side is naked. Do you have some more advice? Here I cannot buy vermiculite plate, so this seems like best solution for me.
Why not just use a ceramic (calcium silicate or similar ) industrial insulation cylinder? Far better reflectivity performance (o.4) never cracks, stronger and easier to cut or shape.
sixmagpies
sixmagpies
Because it's DIY and was fun to do. I'm interested in how much an 8" ID by 40"-50" tall "industrial insulation cylinder" costs though. I do have a jar of ITC 100 that I could paint on the inside for reflectivity. After the initial burn to set the sodium silicate and remove excess moisture (in this video), they were fired in my kiln (not in this video) and they came out great. Unfortunately, even though the rocket heater these were made for is functional, the backyard space it is in is not currently in use. It's been lit up with a small load of twigs maybe a handful of times over the last year or two, just for quick demonstrations. I hope to get back to it this summer and show the finished product.
how about explaining what your doing.....
Sure, a previous video shows the perlite mix I came up with. A mixture of Lincoln 60 fire clay, oatey 3000 furnace cement and homemade water glass. 1st I added a mixture of the Oatey and water glass to thinly coat the perlite, then dusted the fire clay on to coat the perlite. This gives the perlite a nice sticky layer to hold it together temporarily while ramming into the form. Then after it has come out of the form I fired the heat riser sections in my kiln so the clay can take over the job of holding it together.
From a couple failed heat riser builds, I found that I needed to be careful not to ram each layer into the form too hard, or else the next one would not bond well. Although it may appear that I'm really smashing it hard, most of the filling of the form was not. The last layer was smashed real good though. Four of these section make up the heat riser. I made it in sections for the single purpose of needing to fit in the kiln for firing.
Dave, please, how long did you wait for mix to dray before first fire?
prvivozac , just 30 minutes. The first burn was intended to cure the sodium silicate before firing each section in my electric pottery kiln.
Thank you very much Dave.
Debating casting the entire core with sodium silicate and sand then cobbing it in. Any input?
+LimitedGunnerGM I saw a good video yesterday of a guy making fire bricks for a foundry with just sodium silicate and silica sand. I'm gonna finish my heat riser this way as mixing with perlite is becoming ever expensive due to the high compressability factor.
+Michael J yes but will silica sand isolate same good as perlite?
+Don Gruzas Both are insulators, but sand is used for foundries so might be more practical, but likely heavier. Trade offs I guess!
can you use plaster of Paris as the binding agent instead ?
Zachary Ferucci I have no idea, make some small test bricks and let us know how it turns out
@@david22234 I saw a guy torch his plaster/sand bricks with oxyacetylene and it held up well.
Great work! if you want to make the heat transfer more efficient place some flue dampers in the heat riser I'll can send you a picture if you are interested.
tulius01 Why in the world would you restrict flow in the heat riser?!
You're right I only was familiar with our European masonry stoves but in a rocket mass heater you don't want to restrict the air flow.
Metal would also deteriorate pretty quickly in a heat riser. The high heat and oxygen rich enviroment is gonna oxidize the metal very fast.
European masonry stoves - are like Chinese Kang heaters. amazing designs.
Isn't Water glass gaustic?
No
No, lye is caustic. Even bleach is bad for bare hands.
doesn't cat litter and perlite work same as this?
TIM LASHLEY I doubt it. IIRC clay cat litter is bentonite which I think swells a lot when wet, which would probably cause significant cracking while drying. This mix has sodium silicate and furnace cement as binder. After drying I fired each section in my kiln.
oh OK thank you I'm just getting in this and saw some using cat litter
i am just trying to get my neurons around this method how long are they fired in a kiln and at what temp, would they get enough heat if they were incorporated into the rocket stove any thoughts would be predicated
You can also use pumice instead of kitty litter.
@@TIMLASHLEY cat litter is bentonite clay!
I see where this is going. No where!
razony, time for you to visit the optometrist.
That's funny. I have cataracts and will be having that done soon. Good job on the stove though!
No speaking. I saw you do something. I’m not sure exactly what or why. I might be interested if you communicated.
NO TALKING = WHAT THE HECK IS HE DOING ??????????
Wat the het?
Take your "foot gloves" off of your "arm toes" and look up Chimney in a dictionary.
Clearly PNW Dave has no interest in sharing his understanding. Maybe why there are a total of 683 subs in 4 1/2 years?
Actually, autiemuse, my videos are made purely in the interest of sharing understanding, either with people I interact with in person or as a visual aid in a lengthy discussion where people are sharing ideas on a forum. I have zero interest in views, likes, subs or whatever.
Here is a thread discussing this project-
donkey32.proboards.com/thread/1298/fireclay-perlite-barrier-furnace-cement?page=1
This is a bit old, but Darwin's Honey Do Carpenter channel is up to RMH v.3 using aircrete and liquid glass; he's a bit more verbose: ua-cam.com/video/eC3MITjo8M4/v-deo.html
completely useless. will fail after 2 burns ( which I'm sure it did )