Appreciate your work Terry! Interesting finds. I leave your videos to watch on Saturday morning, reminiscing when I used to watch morning toons and great shows back then... Keep up the good work and improving my weekends! :-)
Terry, hats off to you and your channel! I hope you realise how much us percussion shooters /subscribers appreciate the important work you are doing for our community!
The set with aluminium powder was certainly good and worth noting. The nitrocellulose lacquer idea is also a good one. Those cotton wool balls nitrate easily (see elsewhere) and the resultant nitrocellulose dissolves up in acetone to produce a clear lacquer whose viscosity can easily be changed and used for water proofing/consolidation purposes.
Absolutely. I used the double base smokeless because of the nitrogycerin. It helps the smokeless burn cleaner so I thought it might help with the primer.
A couple tips (I've been making caps for awhile)...Al powder will increase reaction rate, which can translate to more brisance- but it consumes 3 oxygen's as it burns so you want to increase KCLO3 to compensate. Oxygen balance is important in a primer formulation. Evaporation of the solvent with NC lacquer loses all your nitro esters unfortunately but if the primary use is for a water proofing sealer, no biggie. NC fines, esters intact- can be precipitated out of NC lacquer by gradual addition of either 91 or 70% IPA, about 25-30% by volume is required. The NC will saturate with water and cannot stay in the non-polar phase, once this phase change occurs you will see the solution go opaque and then you filter off the NC which will be gel like; evaporate this in a closed dessicator,-this gives a superior fuel for primers with esters intact. FA-70 is superior to Prime All, its only slightly more complicated as you will need to source or make Pb or Cu thiocyanate, but it's actually pretty easy to make. I appreciate your work and efforts, hope these tips are helpful.
Great info! I'm sure I will try this but I suspect it's a bit more advanced than most DIYers will want to try. The primary function of the lacquer is as a binder and maybe waterproofer so I think for now I'll stick with some version of flash powder aka Prime All. I have looked at FA-70, as well as Armstrong's mixture. But again I believe these may be better suited to advanced users and I want to avoid using lead or mercury. But thanks for the info!
@@timesgonetech3057 I don't blame you, I prefer RWS/Dynamite Nobel's SINOXID which is lead free and non toxic, but FA-70 is cheap and and for the most part easily prepared from common materials. Cheers
Interesting, i might have missed some vids since the first time you tried your wet method, which seems pretty promising for the ease of use. Glad you keep experimenting
Thought about my previous comment Terry, and decided to delete it for personal reasons. But that’s an interesting mix you came up with, and seams to work fairly well.
Most of these powdered chemicals are gritty enough on there own......causing friction,while also being important components.......the glass may be a hold over of home made primers using strike any where matches.......the homemade nitro lacquer and the aluminum powder are cutting edge.......well done!!!!!
I've used the Duco diluted about 3 to 1 with Acetone and it works for me and doesn't crumble and fall out of the caps like Hairspray. I'm using Prime All without the Yellow Dextrin Hardener . with the Dextrin Prime All hasn't been reliable with Pyrodex P only with FFFg Black Powder . There is also Triple Base Gun Powder which contains a small amount of T.N.T.
Duco works. I tested it and it does a great job. I just prefer a nitrocellulose lacquer. But if someone new to DIY caps asked about Duco, I'd recommend it.
I knew you would come up with a good percussion cap. Just wondering, are you thinking about selling it like prime all. Man, you could come out with a new brand of percussion cap and take the market. Thanks for the videos. Can’t wait to see more.
Theoretically I could sell it in kit form and bypass all HAZMAT and ATF regulations but realistically it would be a nightmare. Plus anyone can just buy the chemicals themselves from Ebay, Amazon, and any pyrotechnics supply company. I'd have to charge so much it just wouldn't be sensible to buy it from me. And then you'd still have to make the tetrazene and iNAP from the kit prior to making the TO24. To start up a company making percussion caps would be a logistical nightmare because explosives are involved.
The aluminum powder seems to be the trick. They say dark aluminum powder is the best. What mesh was the powder. I have used cadweld shots to mold copper wire together and the aluminum powder will melt copper in one second seems like. Powerful stuff. I hope you make a video showing your process with it. Take care
You use nitrocellulose as the bonding liquid to help hold the powder together in the caps? I made some in acetone and trying it now...and I remembered you mentioned it in one of your videos
I mix 4 tbsp double base smokeless in about 3 times more acetone by volume. Let it soak for 2 or 3 days stirring it every day. You should get a thick black syrup. To use it I dilute it again as needed in another 3 to 1 ratio.
Another good video! It looks like the Al is worth investigating further, but I don't think that the glass is having much effect. My understanding of the glass is that it is chemically inert, and only used to increase internal friction (mechanical heat) when the priming compound is struck by the hammer. It is certainly chemically inert. Whether it creates any extra friction inside the cap as it is struck, I am not convinced, given that the compound sems to function well without it, both in your experience and the experience of others. Good work!
It may have been just one of those "Hey - I have a great idea!" Moments that sounded good at the time but in reality adds nothing of real value - over engineering the formula.
Have you also tried to get these primers to ignite & fire a round? The hole in the nipple/cone is very small as you know & I'm just curious if these maybe clogging it
Yes I do try live rounds, but as I can easily see daylight through the nipples after firing dozens and dozens and before cleaning I'm pretty sure the primer is not clogging them up.
@timesgonetech3057 ok..1st time I made 18! Next time was 13...I'm thinking a dozen is about right...thanks for answering...so you use stock nipples or those slix shot brand?
Yes! And there is also a point of diminishing returns where the extra power is wasted and contributes nothing to the ignition of the main powder charge.
You have put alot of work and research into this series. Much appreciated. I just might have to give this a try myself.
Interesting work. Amazing difference with the aluminum. Great video.
Appreciate your work Terry! Interesting finds. I leave your videos to watch on Saturday morning, reminiscing when I used to watch morning toons and great shows back then... Keep up the good work and improving my weekends! :-)
Terry, hats off to you and your channel! I hope you realise how much us percussion shooters /subscribers appreciate the important work you are doing for our community!
The set with aluminium powder was certainly good and worth noting. The nitrocellulose lacquer idea is also a good one. Those cotton wool balls nitrate easily (see elsewhere) and the resultant nitrocellulose dissolves up in acetone to produce a clear lacquer whose viscosity can easily be changed and used for water proofing/consolidation purposes.
Absolutely. I used the double base smokeless because of the nitrogycerin. It helps the smokeless burn cleaner so I thought it might help with the primer.
A couple tips (I've been making caps for awhile)...Al powder will increase reaction rate, which can translate to more brisance- but it consumes 3 oxygen's as it burns so you want to increase KCLO3 to compensate. Oxygen balance is important in a primer formulation. Evaporation of the solvent with NC lacquer loses all your nitro esters unfortunately but if the primary use is for a water proofing sealer, no biggie. NC fines, esters intact- can be precipitated out of NC lacquer by gradual addition of either 91 or 70% IPA, about 25-30% by volume is required. The NC will saturate with water and cannot stay in the non-polar phase, once this phase change occurs you will see the solution go opaque and then you filter off the NC which will be gel like; evaporate this in a closed dessicator,-this gives a superior fuel for primers with esters intact. FA-70 is superior to Prime All, its only slightly more complicated as you will need to source or make Pb or Cu thiocyanate, but it's actually pretty easy to make. I appreciate your work and efforts, hope these tips are helpful.
Great info! I'm sure I will try this but I suspect it's a bit more advanced than most DIYers will want to try. The primary function of the lacquer is as a binder and maybe waterproofer so I think for now I'll stick with some version of flash powder aka Prime All. I have looked at FA-70, as well as Armstrong's mixture. But again I believe these may be better suited to advanced users and I want to avoid using lead or mercury. But thanks for the info!
@@timesgonetech3057 I don't blame you, I prefer RWS/Dynamite Nobel's SINOXID which is lead free and non toxic, but FA-70 is cheap and and for the most part easily prepared from common materials. Cheers
Interesting, i might have missed some vids since the first time you tried your wet method, which seems pretty promising for the ease of use. Glad you keep experimenting
Thought about my previous comment Terry, and decided to delete it for personal reasons. But that’s an interesting mix you came up with, and seams to work fairly well.
Most of these powdered chemicals are gritty enough on there own......causing friction,while also being important components.......the glass may be a hold over of home made primers using strike any where matches.......the homemade nitro lacquer and the aluminum powder are cutting edge.......well done!!!!!
Really good series, love the channel, thanks Terry
Much appreciated
I've used the Duco diluted about 3 to 1 with Acetone and it works for me and doesn't crumble and fall out of the caps like Hairspray. I'm using Prime All without the Yellow Dextrin Hardener . with the Dextrin Prime All hasn't been reliable with Pyrodex P only with FFFg Black Powder . There is also Triple Base Gun Powder which contains a small amount of T.N.T.
Duco works. I tested it and it does a great job. I just prefer a nitrocellulose lacquer. But if someone new to DIY caps asked about Duco, I'd recommend it.
I knew you would come up with a good percussion cap. Just wondering, are you thinking about selling it like prime all. Man, you could come out with a new brand of percussion cap and take the market. Thanks for the videos. Can’t wait to see more.
Theoretically I could sell it in kit form and bypass all HAZMAT and ATF regulations but realistically it would be a nightmare. Plus anyone can just buy the chemicals themselves from Ebay, Amazon, and any pyrotechnics supply company. I'd have to charge so much it just wouldn't be sensible to buy it from me. And then you'd still have to make the tetrazene and iNAP from the kit prior to making the TO24. To start up a company making percussion caps would be a logistical nightmare because explosives are involved.
Very interesting, thank you
The aluminum powder seems to be the trick. They say dark aluminum powder is the best. What mesh was the powder. I have used cadweld shots to mold copper wire together and the aluminum powder will melt copper in one second seems like. Powerful stuff. I hope you make a video showing your process with it. Take care
It's a standard pyro 5413H dark German I got from Amazon. I also sometimes make my own pyrotechnics, for holidays and strictly off camera of course.
You use nitrocellulose as the bonding liquid to help hold the powder together in the caps? I made some in acetone and trying it now...and I remembered you mentioned it in one of your videos
I mix 4 tbsp double base smokeless in about 3 times more acetone by volume. Let it soak for 2 or 3 days stirring it every day. You should get a thick black syrup. To use it I dilute it again as needed in another 3 to 1 ratio.
@timesgonetech3057 thank you..mine was a bit to thick..3/1 I'll tey it ty again
You would be my best ever neighbor!!!!!!
Don Knotts anybody?
I liked "The Ghost and Mr Chicken" movie best. I love those karate chops of his!
@@timesgonetech3057 lol
Another good video! It looks like the Al is worth investigating further, but I don't think that the glass is having much effect.
My understanding of the glass is that it is chemically inert, and only used to increase internal friction (mechanical heat) when the priming compound is struck by the hammer. It is certainly chemically inert. Whether it creates any extra friction inside the cap as it is struck, I am not convinced, given that the compound sems to function well without it, both in your experience and the experience of others.
Good work!
It may have been just one of those "Hey - I have a great idea!" Moments that sounded good at the time but in reality adds nothing of real value - over engineering the formula.
Have you also tried to get these primers to ignite & fire a round? The hole in the nipple/cone is very small as you know & I'm just curious if these maybe clogging it
Yes I do try live rounds, but as I can easily see daylight through the nipples after firing dozens and dozens and before cleaning I'm pretty sure the primer is not clogging them up.
@timesgonetech3057 nice..you couldn't tell me how many caps 1 mix of prime all should make could you?
@@miraxus6264 I'm getting an average of twelve #10 caps per batch. Not sure yet how many batches 1 kit will make, but lots and lots.
@timesgonetech3057 ok..1st time I made 18! Next time was 13...I'm thinking a dozen is about right...thanks for answering...so you use stock nipples or those slix shot brand?
@@miraxus6264 In the neighbourhood of 1000-1500 caps, with a prime all kit.
👍
Where do you source your aluminum?
Skylighter.com
If they are too powerful.wouldnt that cause a chain fire
Yes! And there is also a point of diminishing returns where the extra power is wasted and contributes nothing to the ignition of the main powder charge.
@@timesgonetech3057 I have seen that and hammer bounce. A sign of too much powder also .✌️🇺🇸👍
I got the first comment. Yay :). Good video.
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