DIY Carbon Fiber Intake Manifold: Part 2 Making the carbon fiber plenum.
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
- Composite Envisions
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Fibertack MT1
3M Super 77
Squeezee Line Clamp
Quick Connect Release For Vacuum Model:872
Freekote 700-NC - Release agent
Freekote FMS - Mold sealer
2nd Quality Carbon Fiber Fabric 2x2 Twill 3k 50"/127cm 6oz/203.43gsm Toray T-300
Premium Resin Tech RDR-3121-RTM High Impact/High Temp Vacuum Infusion Epoxy
Airtech Stretchlon 800 bagging film
Airtech AT200Y Tacky Tape
Airtech GS100 Tacky Tape 1" - Vacuum Bag Seal 25ft Roll
Airtech Resinflow 60 Resin Flow Medium
Airtech Bleeder Lease B Coated Peel Ply.
Pro-Set ADV-175 Model 2093
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throttle-stop-... - Авто та транспорт
"just a guy in a garage" - certainly respect the humility here. Well done!
Thanks!
Absolutley, its funny how the best workmen on youtube are always the first to point out they dont know it all.
You do phenomenal work. I started working with fiberglass and resin a few years ago. Lots of mistakes made at the beginning, but I've been quietly following your videos this past year or so and they've been helpful. I've built a few custom electric motorcycles during that time and have been casting the fiberglass fairing parts by hand. It's a lot of work, and waste as you probably know. You'd probably cringe watching it LOL. I hope to work up the nerve to try vacuum bagging someday. I use vac injection to encapsulate axial flux turbine stators, but that's relatively simple. Just a flat circle. Complex parts with compound curves and flanges to deal with is a completely different story. Anyway, just wanted to say that I appreciate the content. Your channel deserves far more attention.
Thanks James. Give infusion a try. I find it a very reliable and simple process.
you all prolly dont give a damn but does any of you know of a method to log back into an Instagram account?
I stupidly lost my login password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Soren Landon instablaster :)
@Sonny Daniel thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Sonny Daniel It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my ass!
I know im not the only one that gets excited when the parts pop out of the moulds, btw that manifold is a work of art even the parts that wont be visible
It never get's old! I love seeing the result of the labour.
Not sure which is better: watching the evolution of this project car; or watching the evolution of your beard.
LOL - I just had to get the hedge trimmers out. My COVID mask wasn't fitting very well.
@@ThrottleStopGarage car confirm. Mask-beard is not a good thing.
This Volvo will be closer to a Koenigsegg than to any other car. I love it!
Thanks - not even going to try to match that level of insanity!
@@ThrottleStopGarageYou're very close and it's very exciting
@ThrottleStopGarage Insanity? No. It's just done to a high standard. In my opinion, your work is very much the same as when they started out.
I love how thoroughly you explain everything
Thanks
In high school wood shop we glued something like 4 sheets of 80 grit to a piece of smooth plywood. That way you can flat sand large projects.
I know that some 2 part epoxies you can cut with denatured alcohol for few benefits. It extends the off time, removes moisture from the mix, allows you to apply thinner coats and virtually eliminates the risk of air bubbles (because it’s thinner and the moisture has been removed).
Also it’s absorbed into wood easier
Many years ago I worked with Dr. Windecker the designer and builder of the Windecker Eagle airplane. I was working on the experimental International Harvester plastic Scout SSV. We found through testing that when you have to fasten to aluminum using epoxy that it helps to sand the wet epoxy into the aluminum using 80 to 100 grit cloth backed sandpaper. A much tighter bond is achieved when doing this. We were using that process to adhere the aluminum grommets to the epoxy/glass body. We found that when doing our crash tests we had a much higher success rate of not pulling the mounts out of the body. You may want to try this on your plenum.
I’m really enjoying the series and your build. Great work! Thanks!
Very interesting David. I've got the cloth backed 80 grit. I may try that.
The whole mold deal is crazy, aluminum foil release dirty & fast & recyclable not foam bad for earthly- heavenly work in progress home.
This guy phenomenal I've contracted at Aston Martin and Bentley working on supercars and this guy is such a craftsman not alot out there doing this sort of thing themselves "properly or adequately" enough at least to call the car "customised" not like the usual hothatch sports model with different alloys exhaust and a racing stripe etc this guy legitimately makes everything he touches better.
I mainly like how you reverse engineer everything you've done back to us not guessing at the time then saying afterwards "don't do this" you explain everything In full detail some of us technical people adore no extremely simplified "everybody cando this" type of project.
Hands in the air and pray more are like you in the future from a mechanical engineer and keen garage diy'er 👍😉🤫 might be slightly medicated much love 🤨😁
Thanks for the kind words - it means a lot.
This is really beautiful. You can be very proud of the result. I hope to be as good as you when I eventually get the guts to make the parts that I'm going to need. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks - I hope your parts turn out.
Every carbon fiber project needs to have at least one carbon finish part, just for the shock and awe effect. It does look really cool, and if you put it in the engine bay, then it doesn't mess up your exterior aesthetics.
That's my vision for the car. It's going to be a very nice addition to the engine bay...and I love engine bays.
I have learned more from you regarding carbon fiber applications than any other channel. I love your freeform way of presenting the content, you include a lot of little tips that the other (overproduced) video leave out. Those tips are where the gold is.
Thank you and keep up the good work!
Glad to help - a lot of tips are being passed along by me from a few very helpful experts I try them and pass them along. We're all learning.
Very underrated channel
Thanks
@@ThrottleStopGarage The 'problem' with you channel is you are not building a "Epic JDM" "Drift Rocket" or whatever the kids are calling them these days, but your work is very nice. Something I would like to get to eventually.
I have a battery relocation tray I might try to make out of carbon soon. Right now it is MDF for prototyping and getting my dimensions locked in.
Pulling the materials off the mold when done looked like a complete workout!
It was a hot day!
Compressed air helps to remove the Peel ply, great work!
Great tip!
I may have also broken a sweat when you were wrestling with that bagging material, but your efforts and attention to detail payed off in a very pro final part! High compliments once again!
I just recently spoke to a carbon fibre user who told me about a resin impregnated product (NOT auto-clave cured prepreg!) but room/elevated-temp cured prepreg, which is (must be) kept refrigerated and cures without an autoclave. Handling is otherwise similar with vacbagging required to form it tightly to mold, but the resin measuring and infusing steps fall away. Resin amount and saturation are always perfect because it is preapplied perfectly!... the material is more expensive (no surprise there!), but he tells me it forms and holds its shape into the molds very nicely with plenty of "working time", so is a pleasure to work with, and the upcost is totally worth it for the messy resin steps that simply fall away, plus ease of handling. ...just thought I'd mention it if you weren't aware of it...I can get manufacturer and further info if you're interested (I am NOT their salesman!...just interested in a simpler, cleaner way of getting into, and working with CF). Cheers
Thanks Ron. I have heard of these products but can't get them shipped to Canada until fall/winter as I can't guarantee that they'd make it without being shipped in a refrigerated truck.
For patterning complex parts, what also works pretty well, is directly applying (masking) tape onto your positive, finding your cut lines, cutting it of along those and then sticking it e.g. on aluminum foil. Pretty quick and you get very accurate patterns.
That's a great tip...I hope I remember it when I have to make the seats!
So nicely done!! Terrific work! It must be so satisfying to produce such a quality part yourself. It certainly speaks to why carbon parts are so expensive. Beauty👍
Thanks - it did turn out better than expected.
Excellent work again Craig. We use a perforated film between the peel ply and the infusion mesh. Much easier to remove, especially for me as im in my sixties and not as fit as i use to be. We sand our parts with 800 grade wet and dry paper and then spray three coats of clear to give good u.v protection. Ian in G.B
Thanks Ian - I've got some Duratec Sun Shield Clear that will give it UV protection.
I just made patterns using cheap peel ply (white w/ red stripes). It will move/ conform to a curve a little. Once I had it where I wanted, I marked the edges with a sharpie. Then I flattened/ straightened it out, trimmed the edges, and spray glued it to some heavy paper to stabilize it. Also, end cutters/ nippers are great for getting that stuck peel ply off.
Thanks Fred - I'm out of the cheap white peel ply, but that's an excellent tip. Makes complete sense.
The joint for the two parts can be filled with a black carbon paste that has chopped strands. Ii adds strength also. Look at the Street Bandito youtube page it was about 2-3 weeks ago.
That's what I was referring to - though I used the high temp epoxy and the chopped fibers as my filler.
Totally blown away at your end results! Kudohs!!!!
Thanks - it did turn out well.
as you were moving the camera around the part I kept saying "let's see that curve on the back side with the cuts.. come on... come one..." then you did and damn did it turn out nice! That's the kind of area that has always made me wonder how to make it look good.
That adhesive you have coming is commonly used in diy plane builds for bonding parts together, namely in the wing ribs and wing strut, so it should be quite fine for yours.
I'm sure someone might ask about the galvanic corrosion, but if you think about it, this isn't a structural part and second, by time any corrosion happens to the extent that it would cause an issue will be so far into the future as to not be a concern. Too many people make out corrosion concerns like that as if it happens and fails overnight, or even within a couple years. If I hadn't been through corrosion training (aircraft related) I might have wondered myself. The adhesive will also act as a layer between the parts for the vast majority of the surface area as well.
It was nerve wracking to lay the first layer. The subsequent layers were easier to lay as I was gaining confidence and skill in placing the fabric. It sure was tricky to do.
Wow, great video.... I can use all of your work in my project. That is awesome.... I am working on building a carbon fiber flight case. Thanks mate.
Cool project - have fun.
stunning final project
Thanks - it turned out very nicely.
Beautiful work. Commitment to work. Cant imagine the cost of all of the tools and chemicals to get yourself situated enough to be comfortable doing this.
It wasn't cheap, but I did commit to doing it and I'm glad that I did.
3D print yourself a bellmouth nozzle for the shop vacuum. It'll due much better than that narrow nozzle.
Aside from that, the parts look absolutely killer! Nice work.
Why do I never come up with these solutions? Brilliant. Now that I'm basically done with making CF parts for the car!
@@ThrottleStopGarage hahaha well I guess a found the channel a little too late. My apologies.
Still could be a decent video/shop tip to demonstrate for the guys following the build.
@@Micah_Makes I was thinking I have a lot of bodywork to do and will design a vacuum attachment for when I do that sanding.
@18:19 that look when you made something way better than you thought could. That's real, non-scripted stuff right there or else you sir deserve an Oscar.
I was always under the impression that carbon fiber needed to be cured regardless of whether an epoxy was used or not which is why I never worked with it. This was many, many years ago. Is this no longer the case and modern epoxies can cure just under vacuum?
I'd like to thank the academy - LOL - it's just me in my garage as you suspect. The epoxies I've used are room temperature cure products but do gain significant strength properties when you post cure them at higher temperatures. I made a tent from wood and foil insulation and with a space heater was able to get the recommended post cure temperature of 80 ºC for 12 hours. All of my parts have been post-cured. I've also experienced no issue with curing outside of the molds but some viewers suggested that this could cause problems.
I suggest you drill recess holes through both carbon and metal parts where the epoxy can fill those holes and will be a mechanical locking mechanism also.
I really don't think that will be required. Working with the various strengths of the structural epoxy and the flange design I came up with should not require further fasteners to work properly.
So completely AWESOME.... you are making me think about doing my 04 v70R hood in carbon. Excellent work!
That a big hood! Simple enough shape though.
What a great result! Thanks for showing your sealing method with the wax on the flange! I am about to do an infusion on the rear decklid of a Lotus Europa and I have a split mold to deal with. Love your project!
Thanks Charles. Use the wax on the inside but use modelling clay to fill any small imperfections on the mold join. I did have the wax pull up a little into the part under vacuum.
@@ThrottleStopGarage That is good to know. I may try to do an external bag or attempt to seal the edges of the mold with a tacky tape and rubber sealing washers on the bolts. Thanks again!
This is truly a masterpiece. I wish I could do something like this for my project. I dont think I'll have the budget for carbon but I will likely use some of these mould making skills for fiberglass work on my project.
Also your fabrication skills in general are good, I love the attention to detail in your videos, it's exactly how I would build something. I'm diving in feet first with my project, but I plan on making sure it's exactly how I want it the first time.
Have fun - that's the most important part.
Great job. Pretty ballsy to mould the outside of the plenum, and hope the inside fits the aluminum flanges. I think most would've just wrapped a destroyable plug to make sure the i.d's were bang on.
ID or OD - either way, you have to hit a dimension. The plug had a total deviation of 0.009" or less than 0.25 mm. Measuring is important.
I don't really think you need it in your current application, bonding the aluminum flanges to the carbon manifold but just for future reference.. In aviation we place scrim cloth between the two surfaces when bonding metal to composite or metal to metal to prevent to much squeeze out. Love your channel!
This has been a source of concern Chris. I've tried to talk to Henkle-Loctite Aviation and I can't get them to pick up the phone. I tried for a week and just gave up. My local rep (they don't sell the aviation adhesive) explained that his engineer didn't think it would be a problem as their "consumer" grade adhesive with similar chemical properties would be fine without a fiberglass veil application. A viewer sent me the Hysol 9493 - he's in the composite repair business and was not concerned. So any information you have - please feel free (I'm on instagram - DM me there).
@@ThrottleStopGarage i sent you some information via your Instagram!
What a great looking thing that is. Well done fella.
Thanks.
If they made PVC paint u could add to prts so they glue weld up prts quick & easy.
some kind of universal shape like a puzzle piece for butt edges is a good idea, slide tap easy add after the fact to both butt pieces. U tape & weld seams & add slide tabs to b double sure won't tear at butt edges.
If the carbon fiber came in tape rolls w/just enough glue to place hold till u laminated it would b way easier to use. Diff width tape roll, or big sheets.
Wow, the plenum looks amazing! Giving me some serious inspiration on my own car project here!
Glad to hear it!
I have a CF intake on my 1989 M3. It looks like they airbrushed the seams with black paint before applying the clear coat. It hides them well enough. Maybe give that a try. Your parts do look great and since you have put in so much work already... I have been enjoying watching for awhile and I finally subscribed. Thank You!
I think once I've sanded the chopped carbon and resin I used to fill the small gaps that I won't have to do much more to "hide" the seam.
Can I have your S14 plz? K thx 😂
This is such an excellent video. Phenomenal work!
Thank you very much!
Something you might find useful for removing the bag and peel ply, I use a steel pry bar and slide it between the carbon and peel ply and gently twist the peg bar. It works great and you won’t be sweating buckets after removing the damn peel ply.
That's a great tip. Thanks.
Np, getting peel ply out of deep molds is to hard without it.
install a cathode grounded or can purchase a pulse device they use in Hawaii to keep cars rust free.
seen it on a few customers cars usually Military as free to Fairy over. some kind of PWM frequency modulation thru the chassis.
I'll try something when the time comes. At least this car will never see winter again.
From my little research that i did a couple of months ago i found that Sikaflex 292 is good for carbon to aluminum bonding
I'm late to the party here, but I have some experience in this area. First of all you have GOT to separate the aluminum and carbon. If you don't the aluminum will corrode something fierce. Second of all permanently bonding aluminum is somewhat of a black art. There are really only two ways to do it. The first way, which is how all of your aluminum aircraft are bonded together in the factory is phosphoric anodizing the aluminum - not something you are going to do in the home shop. The second is to buy a surface prep treatment that goes by the name of AC 130 from 3M. So for Mr. Throttle Stop Garage, this is absolutely beautiful work, but keep a VERY close eye on that bond, and don't be surprised if it separates in the future, especially after it gets wet.
that has come out really nicely - great work, and great video
Thank you! Cheers!
That looks great! Binge watched for last few week, next level stuff 👍
Thanks Paul.
Geez that came out nice. Time to start the project all over and do it in raw carbon! ;)
LOL - no thanks!
Thats One beatiful piece!
Thanks.
Holey crap that plenum turned out perfect!
Another great video. I love the detail you go into with your videos. I'd like to do more with carbon myself so your video are very helpful! Keep it up, you've got a new subscriber!
Awesome, thank you!
old plastic gutter pvc type material for repeated molds same prt, bc it flexes but don't break to easy.
One day I hope to try some of what you've taught me...
Cool - I'm sure it will turn out great.
@@ThrottleStopGarage i would like to do a bunch of panels on my thunderbird. How would you go about making a hood with cowl from a stock hood?
@@AndyFromm Work out where you want to add the new part and make it out of foam (urethane spray foam works fine). Carve it to the shape you want and then build the mold from there.
@@ThrottleStopGarage sounds good. How about the under side because it won't be for looks?
I dont want to speak for him but you'll probably have to make it in two parts, make a plug/mould from the underside of the hood around the area of the cowl, and if you want to strengthen the cowl, make some struts or something to epoxy into the cowl. So in other words I'd make a whole underside then cut for where the cowl is and go from there.
Amazing work. The manifold looks perfect
looks awesome... however easy composites didn't use an autoclave for theirs, just a curing oven for out of autoclave prepreg... I plan to get one of those ovens soon myself... other than that, awesome results!
Meh - either way, I don't have that tech and most other people in their garage doing one part don't either.
Man you do such cool work and I love your energy and tip.
Glad you enjoy it!
It looks absolutely perfect!
Thank you!!
This is so good. It came out great
Thanks - I'm super happy with the result.
Big part came out good, looks great! You would be good with 3 or 4 layers. 6 is overkill, 10 is just waste. just use twill first then use second twill to otherdirection and then use 400g square or some other than twill. ps. Lots of out of the autoclave prepregs available nowadays. You still need vacuum like here and also about 80-100c temp.
Three or four? Really. Interesting. There was too much at the back of the plenum, but it will never come apart there! I don't think I can even get the prepreg's shipped right now until it's colder out.
@@ThrottleStopGarage sure it needs to be at -20c° until labor. Dont quote me on that but Pagani factory. I quess anything below freezing is enough really.
3 layers need to be perfect but it will be strong and airtight already. So maybe use 4. Don't you get pinholes with so many layers and not pre epoxied base of the mold?
@@ThrottleStopGarage yes 9 layers will get you through atom bomb lol :D
I have a question about the autoclave bit. To my understanding, it is simply a pressurized oven. If the pressure can be achieved by pulling a sufficient vaccum, would putting the part into a simple oven be anywhere as effective as using a purpose-built autoclave?
I remember seeing something from the channel Technology Ingredients about making heating chamber/oven from just insulation foam sheets, aluminum tape, and a heat lamp (I cant find the video now, i think it might have been a tangent within a video titles something else). Would something like that be useful at all for curing parts?
Sure if you can keep the vacuum under the heat required for the epoxy to cure.
some autoclaves evacuate the air then pressurize with nitrogen. A they also run pre designated recipes to cook the parts at varying degrees per specific times.
Your simplified explanation isn’t wrong, but some autoclaves are highly complex.
Could you fill the void with water to help get the bag to push right into the mold when pulling a vacuum?
You could, but it's not necessary. Once the air is gone from inside it conforms perfectly to the mold as it has nowhere else to go.
@@ThrottleStopGarage thanks for the reply mate
Wicked job! Very impressive, thanks for your videos! Cheers, Doug
Many thanks!
Just learned that carbon and aluminum together with cause electroless. Have you experienced that?
No issues as the adhesive has micro balloons that prevent contact.
Wait, you're not bagging the whole mold? Are the flanges really airtight? I could certainly be wrong but ideally wouln't you wanna bag the whole mold? Did you do a leak-down test before infusing?
[EDIT] Ah, you're using the wax as a sealant. I'm honestly amazed with how well it worked. Great looking parts.
I'd seal it next time with some caulk instead of the wax. I always do a leak-down on my molds. This one held full vac for days.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Gotcha, thanks for elaborating and as long as it works. I think I only seen people use full bags before but knowing you can get around that is always good.
That was super nice part! Will be epic Amazon with a 5pot
Thanks!
Love this, looks awesome 👍🏼
Thanks
Well done
Would have done a 3 piece mold though (with the front being a separate piece)
This video played randomly, and I told my wife, that looks like a T5 plenum. This is to be the next upgrade to my t5, I assume this is for the Amazon?
It is for my Amazon.
Luv it.....Think Wagner was a good choice for the epic unwrapping
Amazing work and very useful information!
Glad it was helpful!
Hey, BINGE WATCHED YOUR VIDEOS, THIS IS ABSOLUTE STUNNER. The skill you have acquired, incredible. When do you expect to ignite the engine?
It better be next year!
Btw your videos are amazing, I admire your dedication Moreover the craftsmenship. Keep up the good work.
I've had peel ply release issues using the cheaper kind, doesn't seem to happen with the peel ply that has the red lines through it
Came out amazing
Thanks - can't wait to have this part done.
came out beautiful
Thanks.
Great ,amazing work.
Please i need a catch can similar how the unit of your work . Where can I purchase
I built the catch can. I have to get a little time to get a video out on how to make one.
Did you take any extra steps besides fillet wax to seal the mold flange, so it will hold vacuum?
Nope. I'd use a little silicone sealant if I was doing it again.
Awesome job!
The question is how much boost?
Will you gonna pressure test before installing?
Thanks. I'll test it to around 4 bar. Not planning on needing more than 2 bar.
Awesome work as usual!
Nice video, I'm about to do a manifold myself for the first time so looking for any tips and tricks. To be fair to easy composites though-- they don't have an autoclave and have never used one in any of their videos. They just do vacuum bagging and an oven
I wasn't criticizing them or anyone specifically. There are prepreg methods that would make this part easier to do for sure.
Well, I've done a 180° on easy composites. I contacted their tech dept for advice on a good strong material for my plenum and they came back with ill informed rubbish. According to them carbon manifolds don't exist! Fuel and heat will damage the carbon, nothing exists that can be used for engine components etc etc. I had to point out that they were talking nonsense and included a link to the rather good Koenigsegg video showing their carbon prepreg engine parts and a photo of the BMW OEM carbon rocker cover. They came back with more nonsense about highly specialised materials that only OEMs can buy. Shame really as I was about to spend a ton of money with then, but I can't buy from someone that clueless.
Sorry to hear this...I'm not sure my manifold will work, but it's been done many times. I used a high temperature epoxy resin and I will add a thermal barrier between the head and the manifold. Fingers crossed it works.
Awesome parts. Can you put the whole thing in a big bag and not have to worry about pleats?
Nope...the bag isn't going to stretch without the extra material. You could envelope bag it for sure, but the bag will still be very big.
Fantastic work
Thank you! Cheers!
Could you do a video on how to do pipes with a standard layup method? I'd like to get started into composites for my project car and I need to get some carbon intercooler piping figured out but don't have access to an autoclave or anything fancy.
I don't have that gear either. I've also never made a pipe in carbon fibre.
Absolutely stellar work sir!!! 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
How many layers of carbon do you think would be the minimum for strength?
That would depend on if your running boost or not. I did a little guessing with what I did and at around 3 mm thick - I think this could hold a bus.
Some kind of quick clay or some such thing mold whack w/hammer out of mold & clay not able to really stick to it well.
So a couple of holes or pockets where the carbin glues to the aluminium? not all the way through but as like something for the epoxy to grab on? That might prevent the carbon blowing apart from the machined piece ?
The double walled nature of the glue flange should prevent any issues. Many epoxies don't have great peel strength but are fantastic in shear. So I've eliminated the ability of the joint to fail in "peel". It shouldn't require further modification.
Did you post the Catch Can Video ??
With your new learned expertise of vacuum bagging, will a pump capable of pulling 22Hg be enough to do a fender ??
I have not finished that catch can video...moving on with the rest of the build. I'll get back to it - that was supposed to be something for a channel sponsor - then they pulled out. Now I don't bother with that nonsense.
Maybe - I don't think that's going to be enough vacuum to get the job done. I live at a high altitude and can only get about 27". So there are some variables in play. The more vacuum, the greater the compression and that's what you want.
Looking good!
Super,super encore une fois😃😉
Haven't seen a post from you in awhile, I hope everything is all right.
I'll have an update this week. Work is insane and...well, it's an interesting episode coming.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I figured it was something like that. With this COVID going around these days you never really know.
Why i use silicone bags
Yes please, video of a vacuum catch can made!!!!!!
I'll get on it.
Amazing job, I would like one day to make a bonnet or fender for my car in carbon
Go for it!
How could I build a more basic mold that would be for NA use only? I have a 3 rotor RX7 that I would to build ITBs for and then do a nice big carbon air box. Im struggling figuring out how to build flanges without an aluminum base like that.
Just make a mold of the base part and make it in carbon. I'm not sure "more basic" is going to work for a part like this.
So slick man. Did you cnc that plenum flange? Or send the file off
It was sent off for machining.
Amazing as usual!
Thanks again!
So honestly, how much have all your composites cost so far?
Under 5k?
I have to make that video yet...I'll work it all out.
Where are you getting the filler wax. I have searched with no luck. Awesome looking part you make!!!
I got it from Easy Composites in the UK - shipping was silly.
@@ThrottleStopGarage How silly was it?
@@davidwinterbottom1942 About the same price as the wax! It also took about 6 weeks to get to me.
@@ThrottleStopGarageThank you for the info. Have a great day!!!
Wondering about the aluminum/fiber connection - will fully hardening epoxy be in joint of dissimilar materials as reliable as rubberizing polyurethane glue?
(Edit: subscribed. Excellent work!)
I'm not sure - but the product is an aerospace structural adhesive - so I'm guessing it should be fine.
This is legit! wow, great job
Glad you like it!