Got 2014 Chevy Cruze no start cut off on me while I was driving took it too mechanic checked everything no check engine light! Checked all fuses etc changed out coil pack car was working again 1 day later car broke down again mechanic changed out coil pack 1 more time advises me to see an electrical mechanic to verify why coil pack keeps on burnin out is the ECM causing it to do this? Now I have to take it to an electrical tech to verify issue should I spray connector first ?
I would take a hard look at the connection, electrical contact spray is not too expensive, if it helps, at some point you will have to replace the connection for the coil pack.
You helped me!!! Thank you! It turns out my connector was loose! The locking tab appears to be broke. I run err till she dies!! Thanks again! It's 17 degrees, my hands hurt, and I was fed up after 3 days down!! Thank God you made this video!!
i wish you would of pointed out where the coil packs are and exactly what you cleaned. that would of been a huge help. But i will give this a shot, have same problem here
@@hollywood4955 the coil pack is under the cover on the top of the engine, it just pulls off. The plug is on the drivers side. It’s a little bit fussy to get loose, cleaning it will usually get it running. It’s not a permanent fix, it’s just to point you in the right direction. Usually I replace the coil pack and the plug with GM replacement parts. Thanks for watching!
I'll tell you right now on like all late Gen 4 Chevys like 2013-2014 2015-2016 in some vehicles. Always check the fuse block. The fuse block tends to vibrate itself loose just like on the cruise. The Sonic the 2014 2015 Camaros. If you don't pay attention to it, the fuse block will eventually like vibrate itself loose from the wiring harness itself. I've seen it happen a number of times it's happened to my car. I just fixed somebody else's Camaro that had the same exact problem. And it'll manifest itself like a bad body control module or a bad electronic brake module or something like that
I have a 2021 chevy trax and was having this issue, did what he showed in video. My car is back up and running, thanks for the video it really helped!!!!!
Girlfriends car sat for 2 months because mechanic didn’t know what was wrong with it. Recently he cleared the car and said it was fine and we decided to drive it out to dinner. Left us stranded in downtown Houston I made a quick search on Google and YT and I came across this video. Sure enough that connector was broken and had so much corrosion a quick cleaning and got it running long enough to get home. You saved us a couple hundred bucks man thanks!
God bless you! I simply did a Nintendo 64 cartridge blowout of the connector and the car that has been sitting for 4 months comes to life! Runs as if I parked it yesterday!
That's funny, I can truly relate. That's still just the first step, now you know that the plug is bad and will need to be replaced soon. I wish you the best of luck on your journey!
Hey I have the same problem with my car it's a 2011 Chevy Cruze it'll crank like it wants to turn over and start but won't can you go into detail more about what you did and show a little bit more detail on what you did but the coil pack and the cleaning process I would really appreciate it thank you
I am going to make a follow up video soon on this particular problem. Although I was able to get the car back on the road, we ultimately had to replace the coil pack plug. You have to be comfortable with electrical wiring. The coil pack plug is available, around 60 bucks. It did solve the no start and stalling issues, it's a very common problem on these cars. I will cover all this very soon in a new video, I hope this helps.
Thanks again and yeah that wouldn't be a great help when you make that new video I replace the battery then it started turning over like it wants to turn over and start but it doesn't and I'm getting a code saying p00 B7 and I don't know if that could be a problem why it's not starting too but it's turning over and it's acting like it wants to start though
That sounds like a coolant sensor code. I don't think that would cause a no start issue. I would suggest carefully removing the coil pack plug and cleaning it with electric contact cleaner, available at the parts store. Make sure to dry it thoroughly with air before reconnecting. If the car starts, that should be an indication the plug is bad.
Thank you @N.E I really appreciate it as I am experiencing the exact same problem as him for some reason it's not trying to turn over all the way now at first it wasn't even cranking & now when I turn the engine it started to crack but still no start & now I'm am receiving the same code p00b7 I truly hope this help or if you have any other updated information please let us know
Hey man my Cruze will start, have a little misfire and then rev bomb to 3or 4k and then runs just fine but if I let it sit for a little bit and try and start it again it will crank and run for 3 sec and die, I do that about 3 times and hold the gas to the floor and it runs fine again
that sounds like a mass airflow sensor or a tear in the intake tube. first thing to do would check for check engine light. if no light, make sure the breather and intake tube are all sealed up correctly then check all the electric connections around the breather and intake tube. hope this helps!!
I was told i needed 2 parts for my 2014 chevy cruze diesel. Part# 55585712 and part# 55577112. I bought the parts already but my question is the total cost to replace these parts is $3,200. Is that a reasonal price?
I am not familiar with the diesel version, but, on average diesel service is about 1.5 times higher than gasoline engine due to the knowledge and some specialized tools needed. I recommend getting a quote from a second source, if one is available. Also it is possible to negotiate a better deal with the original quote. I hope this helps!
So what did you clean the plug how come you didn't show in the video what it is that you clean cuz you clean the water coil pack or coil pack cold pack I can't understand what you said what the f*** did he clean
About two weeks ago my car suddenly died at a stop sign. I was only 2 blocks from home, so I pushed it back. I was able to start it again by the time I got it near my house, but it died after a few minutes. I decided to wait a little bit and start the car again so I could drive it into my parking spot on the 5th floor. The error code said the MAP sensor was confirmed dead, so I replaced it and my car ran good for about a week. Then it died at a stoplight about a block from my house. I started it back up and drove it into the garage. The next few days things were fine, no power issues, nothing. Two days ago, about 2 days after the last random shut down, the car died WHILE driving. My preconceived notions that it only happened at idle were thrown out the window! I was about a block from Oreilly’s, so I waited about 30 seconds and started the car back up and got to their parking lot. They tested the battery, starter, and alternator. The battery tested bad, then good. The started was good, but the alternator failed. The car is 10 years old and 87k miles, so that’s about the life expectancy of an alternator. Unfortunately, only the Oreilly’s across town had it in stock! The car died about 5 minutes down the road and took a “cooling” down period of about 10 minutes before I could get it started again. I finally got across town and installed the new alternator. No luck, won’t start. Just click click click of the starter and nothing. Battery is reading about 11.9v and it’s from AutoZone from less than a year ago… A buddy gives me a ride and I swap the battery out, opting to upgrade to the AGM battery. Get back to the car and it won’t start. Hook up my friends car and it won’t start. Try again a few minutes later after checking all my hoses and connections and it starts right up (I didn’t find anything unplugged or disconnected). I drive the car for about 2 minutes and it dies while driving. I pull codes and it says P1380, which is related to ignition. I check all the fuses and relays, even bought a new ignition switch (which I didn’t install). I try to start the car several times over the next day and a half, nothing. I search UA-cam for P1380 for hours, nothing… Tonight, the UA-cam algorithm suggests this video. I watch it and he mentions the guy who swapped his entire wire harness (I had just watched that video). So, it’s 9pm, I head down to Oreilly’s and buy a can of the electronics cleaner, head over to my car which is dead on the side of the road a few miles away and I test the voltage on the rightmost pin. 12.21v, no fluctuations, I test the ground, same thing. My hope is dwindling… I spray the connector and the coil pack where it plugs in and wait for it to dry. (Btw, unplug the battery negative, cuz there is small voltage with key off) Plug everything in and BOOM, the car starts up and there is some smoke… I’m pretty sure it was just the cleaner burning off where i had overspray, cuz it cleared up in a few seconds. I ran my car for 27 minutes before I turned it off and started it again with no problem. The 2 mile drive home at 12am was nerve wracking, but I made it all the way with no problem. I don’t have a lot of faith in this fix, especially since my connector appeared fine. I’m gonna order a new coil pack just to be safe, as those connectors were a little less shiny than the plug. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR POSTING THIS VIDEO, AND THANK YOU TO THE UA-cam ALGORITHM!
Got 2014 Chevy Cruze no start cut off on me while I was driving took it too mechanic checked everything no check engine light! Checked all fuses etc changed out coil pack car was working again 1 day later car broke down again mechanic changed out coil pack 1 more time advises me to see an electrical mechanic to verify why coil pack keeps on burnin out is the ECM causing it to do this? Now I have to take it to an electrical tech to verify issue should I spray connector first ?
Even a new battery may need topping up sometimes. Check the voltage with a meter, it should read 12.4 or above. It seems simple, but I have ran across this. The cables on this car will corrode at the terminal ends, near the starter and at the ground connections. There is a service bulletin for the ground wire and the induction ring around the ground cable. Also try the lights and see how bright they are, it could show a bad ground cable. Try also the remote start if equipped or try putting the shifter in neutral and starting it. If all this fails, it could simply be a bad starter.
Hello I'm hoping you see my comment. I bought a new starter just last weekend and this past week my car was running fine. Today It does not start It's just clicking like it was before i replaced the new starter. The battery is also new.
If you have a volt meter check to see if the battery is below 12.4 volts. If not, try charging the battery or jumping the car off. For some reason these cars are finicky about starting if the battery is low.
Mine does not crank and not start it gets 3 codes , intake positioning sensor circuit , exhaust positioning sensor circuit, and crankshaft position sensor I then clear the codes and it take a while but it eventually starts. Codes come back again after a few days already replaced all 3 sensor
That is a tough one. It’s hard to guess without seeing the car. I did have a similar case where the timing change was loose where the tensioners were worn. I wouldn’t want you to dig into that without knowing for sure. It could also be a grounding issue causing the sensors to lose connection . Like I said, it’s a rabbit hole without being there. If it is saying “circuit “ I would lean more towards a connection or grounding issue. Hope this helps. Look closely at the battery ground cable, there Was a recall on the battery ground cable.
It works a lot of times, but, regrettably not every time. Could be the coil pack, hard to say without seeing it. But the trick has got a lot of folks home. Good luck my friend, we are still driving ours, but it leaks coolant, still tracking it down.
@workingwithLarryMullins check your thermostat housing it's a know common thing to always fail also the waterpump & the Reservoir cracks to as well as the lower radiator hoses mine is leaking coolant as well but from the upper inlet hose connected to the reservior .....overall this whole car is a complete headache 🤦🏾 with problems after problems
@kggod3531 yeah so check your plugs and make sure they all look good and were clean, gapped, and snug, as well as the coil pack. I had nad/no spark on a cylinder so replaced plugs and coil pack, and valve cover & gasket, but the kicker was that the one fuse (I think ignition coil fuse 15amp) kept popping without the coil pack changed
Lmfao, Toyota is for people that don’t want problems. “I want problems, always!” My other car is a 68 Camaro RS. 💪🏼 Maybe if they still made Toyotas like in 94, I loved the tailgate on my 4Runner. The new hatch looks like a minivan! 😑
I was just hoping to point out a common problem with the coil connection plug. This test was just to see if it was the connection. Ultimately in the end the wiring harness plug should be replaced. A bad connection like that usually ruins the coil pack and folks just keep replacing them when it could be just the connection.the cleaning process is just spraying the connection with electric contact cleaner, then drying it with compressed air. Hope this helps.
@@workingwithLarryMullins okay, of course it makes sense. I did this procedure and no avail. 2000 miles ago, installed new plugs and coil combo. Worked fine. Then, under load, misfire code in cyl 3 and always that one. So I undid wire clip, took out coil and spark plug 3. It looked worn down on pinned tip. The other plugs were normal. Installed another plug to replace cyl3, put her all together and crank but no fire. This makes no logical sense! Looked at the clip connector. What if it all miss-prongs when compressed on. Then no signal flows. After comparing both parts, impossible for it to miss-align when plugged together. After cleaning, no luck starting. So . . . how can this clip then EVER be the problem unless probability is being an asshole on me! Thanks
@@23PETE Yes. Two problems. BCM had a fried circuit. Part of the starting X3 pin circuit. A friend who was a guru on computers for cars took the BCM apart and replaced the starting circuit within. Never assume your ECM or BCM is the problem before consulting a wiring diagram of the vehicle. One must check every inputing power circuit wire, + or -- plus the OBM scanner com wires for voltage and conductivity. These can be culprit first. If fine, then assume it's your computers. In my case it was, because for some very strange reason, one of the connecting X2 pin from the underhood fuse box had a stripped locking bolt. This caused inconsistent/intermittent signalling back to the BCM. These states drive computer circuitry crazy. It fried the starting circuit in the BCM. The second issue was a ground problem of too much resistance at the coil pak 7-pin connector. The ground tested strong green light, but had toi much resistance. Where it connects to engine grounding ( right below ) would not be easily apparent becaus this ground wire disappears amongst a pack of wires and housings. Electrical schematics showed where it connects to ground, and sure enough the nut tightening was not very tight and had corrosion issues. After all this remedied, the car started right up. This was an uneasy discovery find. I can only surmise that the mechanic who did my engine swap messed with the underhood fuse box, over-tightened to strip a mounting bolt which eventually loosened and miss-connected intermittently which fried tge circuit. Can't prove it either way. Just glad she's been starting and running fine to date.
@@charlesbernard3042 that’s good to hear man I have mine parked the car will start but I don’t wanna risk driving it don’t wanna burn out coil pack Again & have to pay for another tow! Will have an electrician mechanic look at it soon before I will try the electronic cleaner spray & see if that helps out
I've been finding the same issues across the whole Chevy brand.chevy has been importing some or all of their small drivetrains from their giant plant in China. Even the gm/ Delco/ Delphi replacement parts are showing up made in China. It's a shame.
Thank you, Thank you. Saved me $100's. I check fuel pressure by sticking finger in the Schrader valve (good fuel). Took coil plug off and slapped some dielectric grease (had no cleaner) on plug. And she fired up. Spent half hour looking at youtube videos and 5 minutes in freezing cold. Couldn't beleive this was the reason my wife broke down on roadside
Happy it worked, now it points you in the right direction. Sometimes the plug just needs replaced. If you look at the comments, this seems to be a real problem. Thanks for the great comment!!
I’m having this exact same problem and I had my alternator and battery changed and it was trying to start but not catch and as I was going home from work my car stalled while I was at a traffic light
@@stachiasafford2841 you should post a video of what it's doing. Cranking sound can be helpful with diagnosis. If it's cranking fine it's not your starter. If it sounds funny or unusual while it's cranking, it COULD be your starter. If it sounds like its struggling I'd be willing to bet your fuel pump isn't getting power but it could also be your fuel pressure regulator or your purge valve. Did u know there are over 15 sensors that need to all function properly otherwise your car won't start? It's crazy!
Thank you soooo much you’re a life saver ! I was stuck in a shopping center trying to figure out what the issue was and this video got my car started right up
I just tried this fix and it worked!. Thank you very much sir. Symptoms were: Car shut off on my while reversing. Would crank but wouldnt start. Sprayed, tried to start and boom. Worked like a charm.
Please help my chevy cruze limited eco wont start after replacing battery it wont crank just wont start horn don't work or interior lights dash light an radio works
Just start with the basics. Check the ground cable again, it's the weakest link in the system. It helps to have a volt meter. Check the voltage at the battery, if you get more than 12.5 volts at the battery, move on to the fuses.the starter won't even click if the battery is below 12 volts. There is a technical service bulletin on the ground cable on these cars that they will replace for free if it hasn't been already, just call the dealership service department with your model and vin number and they can check for you. I hope this helps, good luck!!
The coil pack plug had a bad connection, a little clean and pushed until seated and the car was repaired, no parts needed. The plug is missing a locking clip, that should be replaced.
@@workingwithLarryMullins when I opened mine green stuff started coming out? Idk if that’s supposed to be good or bad? Ima at a lost slushing the same issues. But my car won’t even turn over. Soon as I go to turn it it’s goes off one click and it’s done. I have replaced the battery and the starter. I’ve checked fuses and my key remote seems to be working. Idk what to do at this point I need help asap! Need to get back home.
@@SoloChefT if the green stuff is coming out of the plug, I suggest replacing the coil pack and the spark plugs at the same time. If the electrical plug is that corroded, try cleaning it with electric contact cleaner.this all could get expensive so getting it serviced at a trusted mechanic would definitely be beneficial at this point.
@@workingwithLarryMullins ok thanks! I will let them know! I have a local friend who knew a mechanic who came out and at least got my car to start cranking. Due to a Wire going to the starter. It was loosing power some were. He recommended I change the fuse.
I wish I had a mechanic who would run my car through these kind of test instead of testing it by buying new parts .
LOL real shit
Thank you very much Good Man, After having the car stopped for a weekend it worked for me,Thanks 🙂 , God Bless you.
Happy it worked out! Thanks for watching!
Got 2014 Chevy Cruze no start cut off on me while I was driving took it too mechanic checked everything no check engine light! Checked all fuses etc changed out coil pack car was working again 1 day later car broke down again mechanic changed out coil pack 1 more time advises me to see an electrical mechanic to verify why coil pack keeps on burnin out is the ECM causing it to do this? Now I have to take it to an electrical tech to verify issue should I spray connector first ?
I would take a hard look at the connection, electrical contact spray is not too expensive, if it helps, at some point you will have to replace the connection for the coil pack.
@@workingwithLarryMullins ok thanks for the advice sir I will try that first!
You helped me!!! Thank you! It turns out my connector was loose! The locking tab appears to be broke. I run err till she dies!! Thanks again! It's 17 degrees, my hands hurt, and I was fed up after 3 days down!! Thank God you made this video!!
Glad it worked!! It seems those Delphi connectors are a little janky !!
i wish you would of pointed out where the coil packs are and exactly what you cleaned. that would of been a huge help. But i will give this a shot, have same problem here
@@hollywood4955 the coil pack is under the cover on the top of the engine, it just pulls off. The plug is on the drivers side. It’s a little bit fussy to get loose, cleaning it will usually get it running. It’s not a permanent fix, it’s just to point you in the right direction. Usually I replace the coil pack and the plug with GM replacement parts. Thanks for watching!
Im having the same issue with my chevy cruz rn.. i will check this tomorrow @workingwithLarryMullins
I'll tell you right now on like all late Gen 4 Chevys like 2013-2014 2015-2016 in some vehicles. Always check the fuse block. The fuse block tends to vibrate itself loose just like on the cruise. The Sonic the 2014 2015 Camaros. If you don't pay attention to it, the fuse block will eventually like vibrate itself loose from the wiring harness itself. I've seen it happen a number of times it's happened to my car. I just fixed somebody else's Camaro that had the same exact problem. And it'll manifest itself like a bad body control module or a bad electronic brake module or something like that
I have a 2021 chevy trax and was having this issue, did what he showed in video. My car is back up and running, thanks for the video it really helped!!!!!
Same intermittent problem, sprayed wire harness, temporary fix, replaced the wire harness and problem was finally fixed
thank's for posting this vid your knowledge yet so simple was a great help , thanks again .
I did and it work Thank you
Thanks you so much bro i broke down thinking it was over heating but it was that same connection
Girlfriends car sat for 2 months because mechanic didn’t know what was wrong with it. Recently he cleared the car and said it was fine and we decided to drive it out to dinner. Left us stranded in downtown Houston I made a quick search on Google and YT and I came across this video. Sure enough that connector was broken and had so much corrosion a quick cleaning and got it running long enough to get home. You saved us a couple hundred bucks man thanks!
You just saved yourself a hundred and fifty buckssss
@@JustaVegasBaby😂
God bless you! I simply did a Nintendo 64 cartridge blowout of the connector and the car that has been sitting for 4 months comes to life! Runs as if I parked it yesterday!
That's funny, I can truly relate. That's still just the first step, now you know that the plug is bad and will need to be replaced soon. I wish you the best of luck on your journey!
Hey I have the same problem with my car it's a 2011 Chevy Cruze it'll crank like it wants to turn over and start but won't can you go into detail more about what you did and show a little bit more detail on what you did but the coil pack and the cleaning process I would really appreciate it thank you
I am going to make a follow up video soon on this particular problem. Although I was able to get the car back on the road, we ultimately had to replace the coil pack plug. You have to be comfortable with electrical wiring. The coil pack plug is available, around 60 bucks. It did solve the no start and stalling issues, it's a very common problem on these cars. I will cover all this very soon in a new video, I hope this helps.
Thanks again and yeah that wouldn't be a great help when you make that new video I replace the battery then it started turning over like it wants to turn over and start but it doesn't and I'm getting a code saying p00 B7 and I don't know if that could be a problem why it's not starting too but it's turning over and it's acting like it wants to start though
That sounds like a coolant sensor code. I don't think that would cause a no start issue. I would suggest carefully removing the coil pack plug and cleaning it with electric contact cleaner, available at the parts store. Make sure to dry it thoroughly with air before reconnecting. If the car starts, that should be an indication the plug is bad.
Thank you @N.E I really appreciate it as I am experiencing the exact same problem as him for some reason it's not trying to turn over all the way now at first it wasn't even cranking & now when I turn the engine it started to crack but still no start & now I'm am receiving the same code p00b7 I truly hope this help or if you have any other updated information please let us know
Hey did you figure out what was the issue ??? I am currently experiencing the same exact problem
Ok first thing get rid of that fisheye lens. Looks like you’re trying to make people believe you drive a Globe.
Hey man my Cruze will start, have a little misfire and then rev bomb to 3or 4k and then runs just fine but if I let it sit for a little bit and try and start it again it will crank and run for 3 sec and die, I do that about 3 times and hold the gas to the floor and it runs fine again
that sounds like a mass airflow sensor or a tear in the intake tube. first thing to do would check for check engine light. if no light, make sure the breather and intake tube are all sealed up correctly then check all the electric connections around the breather and intake tube. hope this helps!!
When I check dead cars I always check spark ,gas and compression!
Man you helped me so much!! Fixed! Thanks
You are my hero sir. 5 minute fix.
Awesome fixed my 2012 from your video rhanks
I was told i needed 2 parts for my 2014 chevy cruze diesel. Part# 55585712 and part# 55577112. I bought the parts already but my question is the total cost to replace these parts is $3,200. Is that a reasonal price?
I am not familiar with the diesel version, but, on average diesel service is about 1.5 times higher than gasoline engine due to the knowledge and some specialized tools needed. I recommend getting a quote from a second source, if one is available. Also it is possible to negotiate a better deal with the original quote. I hope this helps!
So what did you clean the plug how come you didn't show in the video what it is that you clean cuz you clean the water coil pack or coil pack cold pack I can't understand what you said what the f*** did he clean
CRC brand QD spray electronic cleaner.its safe for electric connections .QD just stands for quick drying.
Clean the electric connections that plug into the coil pack. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.
idk what the hell u said
About two weeks ago my car suddenly died at a stop sign. I was only 2 blocks from home, so I pushed it back. I was able to start it again by the time I got it near my house, but it died after a few minutes. I decided to wait a little bit and start the car again so I could drive it into my parking spot on the 5th floor.
The error code said the MAP sensor was confirmed dead, so I replaced it and my car ran good for about a week. Then it died at a stoplight about a block from my house. I started it back up and drove it into the garage. The next few days things were fine, no power issues, nothing.
Two days ago, about 2 days after the last random shut down, the car died WHILE driving. My preconceived notions that it only happened at idle were thrown out the window! I was about a block from Oreilly’s, so I waited about 30 seconds and started the car back up and got to their parking lot.
They tested the battery, starter, and alternator. The battery tested bad, then good. The started was good, but the alternator failed. The car is 10 years old and 87k miles, so that’s about the life expectancy of an alternator. Unfortunately, only the Oreilly’s across town had it in stock!
The car died about 5 minutes down the road and took a “cooling” down period of about 10 minutes before I could get it started again. I finally got across town and installed the new alternator. No luck, won’t start. Just click click click of the starter and nothing. Battery is reading about 11.9v and it’s from AutoZone from less than a year ago…
A buddy gives me a ride and I swap the battery out, opting to upgrade to the AGM battery. Get back to the car and it won’t start. Hook up my friends car and it won’t start. Try again a few minutes later after checking all my hoses and connections and it starts right up (I didn’t find anything unplugged or disconnected).
I drive the car for about 2 minutes and it dies while driving. I pull codes and it says P1380, which is related to ignition. I check all the fuses and relays, even bought a new ignition switch (which I didn’t install).
I try to start the car several times over the next day and a half, nothing. I search UA-cam for P1380 for hours, nothing…
Tonight, the UA-cam algorithm suggests this video. I watch it and he mentions the guy who swapped his entire wire harness (I had just watched that video). So, it’s 9pm, I head down to Oreilly’s and buy a can of the electronics cleaner, head over to my car which is dead on the side of the road a few miles away and I test the voltage on the rightmost pin. 12.21v, no fluctuations, I test the ground, same thing. My hope is dwindling…
I spray the connector and the coil pack where it plugs in and wait for it to dry. (Btw, unplug the battery negative, cuz there is small voltage with key off)
Plug everything in and BOOM, the car starts up and there is some smoke… I’m pretty sure it was just the cleaner burning off where i had overspray, cuz it cleared up in a few seconds.
I ran my car for 27 minutes before I turned it off and started it again with no problem. The 2 mile drive home at 12am was nerve wracking, but I made it all the way with no problem.
I don’t have a lot of faith in this fix, especially since my connector appeared fine. I’m gonna order a new coil pack just to be safe, as those connectors were a little less shiny than the plug.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR POSTING THIS VIDEO, AND THANK YOU TO THE UA-cam ALGORITHM!
Got 2014 Chevy Cruze no start cut off on me while I was driving took it too mechanic checked everything no check engine light! Checked all fuses etc changed out coil pack car was working again 1 day later car broke down again mechanic changed out coil pack 1 more time advises me to see an electrical mechanic to verify why coil pack keeps on burnin out is the ECM causing it to do this? Now I have to take it to an electrical tech to verify issue should I spray connector first ?
My problem is it is not turning over replaced battery still won't turn over
Even a new battery may need topping up sometimes. Check the voltage with a meter, it should read 12.4 or above. It seems simple, but I have ran across this. The cables on this car will corrode at the terminal ends, near the starter and at the ground connections. There is a service bulletin for the ground wire and the induction ring around the ground cable. Also try the lights and see how bright they are, it could show a bad ground cable. Try also the remote start if equipped or try putting the shifter in neutral and starting it. If all this fails, it could simply be a bad starter.
my Cruze died coming off the highway. timing belt broke causing the pistons and valves to get rough and intimate.
Did this fix your problem or what help fix it
Thank s your videos thank you for your time!
corrosion build up inside coil connector?
Hello I'm hoping you see my comment. I bought a new starter just last weekend and this past week my car was running fine. Today It does not start It's just clicking like it was before i replaced the new starter. The battery is also new.
If you have a volt meter check to see if the battery is below 12.4 volts. If not, try charging the battery or jumping the car off. For some reason these cars are finicky about starting if the battery is low.
WHAT PART ??
your video shows nothing, you dont even point to it, try again , .....
I have a 07 mustang could this be applicable to my car as well?
I haven't tried it on Ford connections but it doesn't cost anything to try it , let me know how it goes!
Great fix
Mine does not crank and not start it gets 3 codes , intake positioning sensor circuit , exhaust positioning sensor circuit, and crankshaft position sensor I then clear the codes and it take a while but it eventually starts. Codes come back again after a few days already replaced all 3 sensor
That is a tough one. It’s hard to guess without seeing the car. I did have a similar case where the timing change was loose where the tensioners were worn. I wouldn’t want you to dig into that without knowing for sure. It could also be a grounding issue causing the sensors to lose connection . Like I said, it’s a rabbit hole without being there. If it is saying “circuit “ I would lean more towards a connection or grounding issue. Hope this helps. Look closely at the battery ground cable, there Was a recall on the battery ground cable.
@workingwithLarryMullins yes that is my frits thought too just bought the big 3 kit which replaces the stock battery connectors
Hi how did you solve the problem,am also having the same problem
I clicked the start button many times until the car started , codes went away and have not had them come back since@skhumbamajola427
I need some help would u mind helping me
I will help if I can. What are you needing help with?
Mine are spotless but sprayed em anyways, but still cranks, no start, no spark
It works a lot of times, but, regrettably not every time. Could be the coil pack, hard to say without seeing it. But the trick has got a lot of folks home. Good luck my friend, we are still driving ours, but it leaks coolant, still tracking it down.
Hey did you fix it ?? Figure out what that cause was
@workingwithLarryMullins check your thermostat housing it's a know common thing to always fail also the waterpump & the Reservoir cracks to as well as the lower radiator hoses mine is leaking coolant as well but from the upper inlet hose connected to the reservior .....overall this whole car is a complete headache 🤦🏾 with problems after problems
@kggod3531 yeah so check your plugs and make sure they all look good and were clean, gapped, and snug, as well as the coil pack. I had nad/no spark on a cylinder so replaced plugs and coil pack, and valve cover & gasket, but the kicker was that the one fuse (I think ignition coil fuse 15amp) kept popping without the coil pack changed
Just buy a Toyota
Lmfao, Toyota is for people that don’t want problems. “I want problems, always!” My other car is a 68 Camaro RS. 💪🏼 Maybe if they still made Toyotas like in 94, I loved the tailgate on my 4Runner. The new hatch looks like a minivan! 😑
I’m about to
this is the 1.4 right???
Yes, it's the 1.4 turbo.
So why can't you show that cleaning procedure and spark plug test so we can see how to do it? Geez, how's this help us out?
I was just hoping to point out a common problem with the coil connection plug. This test was just to see if it was the connection. Ultimately in the end the wiring harness plug should be replaced. A bad connection like that usually ruins the coil pack and folks just keep replacing them when it could be just the connection.the cleaning process is just spraying the connection with electric contact cleaner, then drying it with compressed air. Hope this helps.
@@workingwithLarryMullins okay, of course it makes sense. I did this procedure and no avail. 2000 miles ago, installed new plugs and coil combo. Worked fine. Then, under load, misfire code in cyl 3 and always that one. So I undid wire clip, took out coil and spark plug 3. It looked worn down on pinned tip. The other plugs were normal. Installed another plug to replace cyl3, put her all together and crank but no fire. This makes no logical sense! Looked at the clip connector. What if it all miss-prongs when compressed on. Then no signal flows. After comparing both parts, impossible for it to miss-align when plugged together. After cleaning, no luck starting. So . . . how can this clip then EVER be the problem unless probability is being an asshole on me! Thanks
@@charlesbernard3042 so did u ever fix the issue ?
@@23PETE Yes. Two problems. BCM had a fried circuit. Part of the starting X3 pin circuit. A friend who was a guru on computers for cars took the BCM apart and replaced the starting circuit within.
Never assume your ECM or BCM is the problem before consulting a wiring diagram of the vehicle. One must check every inputing power circuit wire, + or -- plus the OBM scanner com wires for voltage and conductivity. These can be culprit first. If fine, then assume it's your computers. In my case it was, because for some very strange reason, one of the connecting X2 pin from the underhood fuse box had a stripped locking bolt. This caused inconsistent/intermittent signalling back to the BCM. These states drive computer circuitry crazy. It fried the starting circuit in the BCM.
The second issue was a ground problem of too much resistance at the coil pak 7-pin connector. The ground tested strong green light, but had toi much resistance. Where it connects to engine grounding ( right below ) would not be easily apparent becaus this ground wire disappears amongst a pack of wires and housings. Electrical schematics showed where it connects to ground, and sure enough the nut tightening was not very tight and had corrosion issues. After all this remedied, the car started right up. This was an uneasy discovery find. I can only surmise that the mechanic who did my engine swap messed with the underhood fuse box, over-tightened to strip a mounting bolt which eventually loosened and miss-connected intermittently which fried tge circuit. Can't prove it either way. Just glad she's been starting and running fine to date.
@@charlesbernard3042 that’s good to hear man I have mine parked the car will start but I don’t wanna risk driving it don’t wanna burn out coil pack Again & have to pay for another tow! Will have an electrician mechanic look at it soon before I will try the electronic cleaner spray & see if that helps out
Don't buy these cars
I've been finding the same issues across the whole Chevy brand.chevy has been importing some or all of their small drivetrains from their giant plant in China. Even the gm/ Delco/ Delphi replacement parts are showing up made in China. It's a shame.
They are actually defunk Daiwoo which explains the poor quality.
So you cleaned the spark plugs?
going to try this. hopefully fixes my issue no crank no start
Did it fix your problem??
@@kggod3531 if I remember correctly, my engine was bad. Compression on only one cylinder. Ended up replacing with used engine
Thank you, Thank you. Saved me $100's. I check fuel pressure by sticking finger in the Schrader valve (good fuel). Took coil plug off and slapped some dielectric grease (had no cleaner) on plug. And she fired up. Spent half hour looking at youtube videos and 5 minutes in freezing cold. Couldn't beleive this was the reason my wife broke down on roadside
Happy it worked, now it points you in the right direction. Sometimes the plug just needs replaced. If you look at the comments, this seems to be a real problem. Thanks for the great comment!!
I’m having this exact same problem and I had my alternator and battery changed and it was trying to start but not catch and as I was going home from work my car stalled while I was at a traffic light
Have you fixed your problem?
I was told it could be my starter…so it’s still sitting🥺😔
@@stachiasafford2841 you should post a video of what it's doing. Cranking sound can be helpful with diagnosis.
If it's cranking fine it's not your starter. If it sounds funny or unusual while it's cranking, it COULD be your starter.
If it sounds like its struggling I'd be willing to bet your fuel pump isn't getting power but it could also be your fuel pressure regulator or your purge valve.
Did u know there are over 15 sensors that need to all function properly otherwise your car won't start? It's crazy!
@@stachiasafford2841 its not your starter making it stall
Thank you soooo much you’re a life saver ! I was stuck in a shopping center trying to figure out what the issue was and this video got my car started right up
So happy it helped, thanks for watching!
@@workingwithLarryMullins of course , grateful for your efforts ❤️
why didn't you show us what you cleaned with the contact cleaner. Pointless video
He clean the ignition coil pack cable connected to the big yellow center block you can unplug & unscrew with a T30
I just tried this fix and it worked!. Thank you very much sir. Symptoms were: Car shut off on my while reversing. Would crank but wouldnt start. Sprayed, tried to start and boom. Worked like a charm.
Please help my chevy cruze limited eco wont start after replacing battery it wont crank just wont start horn don't work or interior lights dash light an radio works
Just start with the basics. Check the ground cable again, it's the weakest link in the system. It helps to have a volt meter. Check the voltage at the battery, if you get more than 12.5 volts at the battery, move on to the fuses.the starter won't even click if the battery is below 12 volts. There is a technical service bulletin on the ground cable on these cars that they will replace for free if it hasn't been already, just call the dealership service department with your model and vin number and they can check for you. I hope this helps, good luck!!
Ok thank u I just tried to roll windows down it wont either
It saying lost communication to fuel pump control module
My car doing same thing and got new battery and saying oil change is black just crank no start
sorry i dnt understand. what was problem? :/
The coil pack plug had a bad connection, a little clean and pushed until seated and the car was repaired, no parts needed. The plug is missing a locking clip, that should be replaced.
@@workingwithLarryMullins when I opened mine green stuff started coming out? Idk if that’s supposed to be good or bad? Ima at a lost slushing the same issues. But my car won’t even turn over. Soon as I go to turn it it’s goes off one click and it’s done. I have replaced the battery and the starter. I’ve checked fuses and my key remote seems to be working. Idk what to do at this point I need help asap! Need to get back home.
@@SoloChefT if the green stuff is coming out of the plug, I suggest replacing the coil pack and the spark plugs at the same time. If the electrical plug is that corroded, try cleaning it with electric contact cleaner.this all could get expensive so getting it serviced at a trusted mechanic would definitely be beneficial at this point.
@@workingwithLarryMullins ok thanks! I will let them know! I have a local friend who knew a mechanic who came out and at least got my car to start cranking. Due to a Wire going to the starter. It was loosing power some were. He recommended I change the fuse.
Hey @C4cheft504 did you ever fix the issues ??