Very InTeReStiNg. Good idea, plan and execution. Just the fact that you stressed slightly that the led hole wasn't perfect shows how much you consider every aspect, even the very small ones. So will let it slide this time :) Cheers!
You can actually drill laminated paper. Use a RF4(PCB)plate as a sacrificial plate clamped on top of the plate that you want to drill to pressing the sacrifical plate on top of the laminated paper prevents it from Ausfranzen wenn du durch bohrst.
Hi. What size 5k pot did you fit ? RS part number ?. I have built a 50V calibrator using 5 10V references stacked and simple voltage divider. Perhaps that would cover the multimeter ranges below the minimum 90V this unit outputs ? There is a higher power DC to DC converter that will produce 390 V plus and minus from a 32V input.
It has a (digikey I believe) part number 450T328F502A1A1 but any 5K pot will do. I used a linear pot which may not be ideal for this because the 85 to ca 170V range takes most of the adjustable range and the 170 to 210 is very compressed at the end, making it difficult to adjust 200V precisely. A better choice may be a logarithmic pot but I have never bothered to find out if that would work better.
An interesting question. I don't know. I would have to do a reverse -engineering of the circuit and now the unit is already in its box... If I have some spare time I might take it apart but no promises.
@@TheHWcave OK thanks. I was thinking of making a Capacitor Leakage tester, but I want to test 6V electrolytics as well as higher voltage caps from a 12V input source (e.g. old ATX PSU). I could make two separate PSUs - 1V-60V and the 90V-200V boards. Ideally I am looking for a DC supply of low current but 5V-1000V. Rather a tall order!
Well, that is certainly a challenge. I myself use my Bench power supply (self-built using one of those DPS5005 modules ua-cam.com/video/bkaYjqGrfe0/v-deo.html ) that goes from 0 to just over 50V. Then the "gap" to the 80V-200V supply isn't that much. There are some low voltage cap leakage testing circuits out there (Check out Mr. Carlson's Lab UA-cam channel or the EEVBlog) but there is some debate whether low voltage catches leaks that only occur at high voltage. Then again, Mr Carlson has examples where his low-voltage tester found leaks that a high-voltage tester did not. Anyway if you want to go the high voltage route and since you only looking for high voltage DC to check for leakage and actually, all you really want to know if there is a significant leakage current or not, the stability of the HV is not very critical. So there is another way to get from very low to 1000VDC or more: You need two transformers. The transformers do not need to be very big or expensive but of the proper isolating/safety type, i.e. primary and secondary windings must be completely separate and not connected. The first transformer takes mains and produces a safe low-volt AC of say 12V. The second transformer is a 230 mains to 12V type but you are using it in reverse, i.e. you connect its 12V to the 12V output of the first. Then the primary of the 2nd transformer will produce a doubly isolated 230V AC which you now feed into a rectifier/voltage multiplier en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_multiplier and you have 1000V DC easily. To make this voltage adjustable the easiest and best way would be a (small) VARIAC in the mains connection to the first transformer or get a low-ohm pot (these are called "Rheostats") you wire in the 12V line between the output of the 1st and the input of the 2nd transformers. The power rating depends on the transformers. If you use 12V and 1A, you need to plan for at least 12W. Resistance depends on what the resistance of the secondary windings but usually you will need something in the 10 Ohms range. Your best bet to find one cheaply is a used one on Ebay. For you safety please do not skip the use of isolating 2 transformers. Also treat that secondary AC output (and especially the multiplied DC) with the same respect as mains (no touching!, no short circuits)
The module looks nice and probably what i need,but damn even with paid shipping it will arrive at my home not less that may!! I give up on that since the only seller on ebay i could find its in hongkong. Too long the shipping even if paid!!
I often find that stuff sold by a supposedly UK reseller is in fact someone in China... On the other hand, all stuff I have ordered from China has generally arrived a lot faster than what the shipping estimate said. That is even true in the last 2 months. But I understand your frustration. The other option is to search for a generic "Nixie power supply", some of which may be suitable for you and have shorter delivery times.
@@TheHWcave Supposedly UK seller?Well lets say it how it is,chinise living in UK import from china to UK whatever he's selling,i find often in italy the same as you do. Moving forward well yesterday i was scowering ebay and i found what i actually need which is a 12V DC to 220V AC since i will use that for a washing machine motor driving another washing machine motor used as generator,since the amps required would be a bit above mA than the board you posted,it came to my mind that dc to ac inverter would be the best fit for what i need along with AC voltage regulator so i can actually fully test the output from 100V AC up to 220V AC and see what are the outputs of DC generated by the second washing machine motor. God i love Knowledge i seem never ever to have enough of it. Thank you for your video and the time you've spent making it.
Yes, the converter would certainly not be able to drive a washing machine motor. It is also DC not AC. It sounds what you probably need is actually a VARIAC. Its a ring transformer with a slider that allows you tap variable AC voltage at any position. Kind of like a giant potentiometer (volume control) but a true transformer, not a resistor. There is a video on my channel building one. ua-cam.com/video/tnatQbWQ_Tw/v-deo.html
@@TheHWcave Hi well what i need i already found it as i said before and tomorrow i will order it,its practically an inverter from DC to AC and it can drive motors up to 500Watt,before that i tested a step up DC to DC from 12 to 80V DC but i pretty soon understood that 80V dc wouldn't have been enough since yes washing machine motor was generatin' between 90 to 95 V DC when i realized that it was without load,when i actually attached the load wouldn't have been enough even the step up 80v DC,also without load the actual amps pulled from the step up was around 3 Ah. So since i tested the step up and i wasn't satisfied with the results i opted for an AC inverted right after seeing your video. Anyway i do appreciate the suggestion you gave me,and since i couldn't find on youtube an actual dc step up with extensive specifics for what i needed i went for buying one,which isn't even that expansive 18 buck included the shipping cost within 5 6 days not to bad so i went for it. I gotta say sooo many people build things and post videos on youtube,but very lil provide extensive " How To " along with all components needed and that is a damn shame. When i am done with the testing i will make a video with all the parts needed,since i am HELL BENT on finding and sharing a simple way to make your own electricity also easy to assemble that even a 10 yrs/o kid could do it,in a fairly reasonable amount of time for the assembly. I also can understand why people won't provide the how to,and well china scambegs its the reason.
Very InTeReStiNg. Good idea, plan and execution. Just the fact that you stressed slightly that the led hole wasn't perfect shows how much you consider every aspect, even the very small ones. So will let it slide this time :) Cheers!
You can actually drill laminated paper. Use a RF4(PCB)plate as a sacrificial plate clamped on top of the plate that you want to drill to pressing the sacrifical plate on top of the laminated paper prevents it from Ausfranzen wenn du durch bohrst.
Thanks. Will try that method next time
Hi. What size 5k pot did you fit ? RS part number ?. I have built a 50V calibrator using 5 10V references stacked and simple voltage divider. Perhaps that would cover the multimeter ranges below the minimum 90V this unit outputs ? There is a higher power DC to DC converter that will produce 390 V plus and minus from a 32V input.
It has a (digikey I believe) part number 450T328F502A1A1 but any 5K pot will do. I used a linear pot which may not be ideal for this because the 85 to ca 170V range takes most of the adjustable range and the 170 to 210 is very compressed at the end, making it difficult to adjust 200V precisely. A better choice may be a logarithmic pot but I have never bothered to find out if that would work better.
Is it possible to change output range to 5V - 200V?
An interesting question. I don't know. I would have to do a reverse -engineering of the circuit and now the unit is already in its box... If I have some spare time I might take it apart but no promises.
@@TheHWcave OK thanks. I was thinking of making a Capacitor Leakage tester, but I want to test 6V electrolytics as well as higher voltage caps from a 12V input source (e.g. old ATX PSU). I could make two separate PSUs - 1V-60V and the 90V-200V boards. Ideally I am looking for a DC supply of low current but 5V-1000V. Rather a tall order!
Well, that is certainly a challenge. I myself use my Bench power supply (self-built using one of those DPS5005 modules ua-cam.com/video/bkaYjqGrfe0/v-deo.html ) that goes from 0 to just over 50V. Then the "gap" to the 80V-200V supply isn't that much.
There are some low voltage cap leakage testing circuits out there (Check out Mr. Carlson's Lab UA-cam channel or the EEVBlog) but there is some debate whether low voltage catches leaks that only occur at high voltage. Then again, Mr Carlson has examples where his low-voltage tester found leaks that a high-voltage tester did not.
Anyway if you want to go the high voltage route and since you only looking for high voltage DC to check for leakage and actually, all you really want to know if there is a significant leakage current or not, the stability of the HV is not very critical. So there is another way to get from very low to 1000VDC or more: You need two transformers. The transformers do not need to be very big or expensive but of the proper isolating/safety type, i.e. primary and secondary windings must be completely separate and not connected. The first transformer takes mains and produces a safe low-volt AC of say 12V. The second transformer is a 230 mains to 12V type but you are using it in reverse, i.e. you connect its 12V to the 12V output of the first. Then the primary of the 2nd transformer will produce a doubly isolated 230V AC which you now feed into a rectifier/voltage multiplier en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_multiplier and you have 1000V DC easily.
To make this voltage adjustable the easiest and best way would be a (small) VARIAC in the mains connection to the first transformer or get a low-ohm pot (these are called "Rheostats") you wire in the 12V line between the output of the 1st and the input of the 2nd transformers. The power rating depends on the transformers. If you use 12V and 1A, you need to plan for at least 12W. Resistance depends on what the resistance of the secondary windings but usually you will need something in the 10 Ohms range. Your best bet to find one cheaply is a used one on Ebay.
For you safety please do not skip the use of isolating 2 transformers. Also treat that secondary AC output (and especially the multiplied DC) with the same respect as mains (no touching!, no short circuits)
thanks. i was expecting a schematic, but well.....
yeah, should have done one, apologies. Next time..
@@TheHWcave plz provide in Description
not sure what you are looking for. The module is (still) on Ebay. For example:
www.ebay.com/c/12012088051
The module looks nice and probably what i need,but damn even with paid shipping it will arrive at my home not less that may!!
I give up on that since the only seller on ebay i could find its in hongkong.
Too long the shipping even if paid!!
I often find that stuff sold by a supposedly UK reseller is in fact someone in China... On the other hand, all stuff I have ordered from China has generally arrived a lot faster than what the shipping estimate said. That is even true in the last 2 months. But I understand your frustration. The other option is to search for a generic "Nixie power supply", some of which may be suitable for you and have shorter delivery times.
@@TheHWcave Supposedly UK seller?Well lets say it how it is,chinise living in UK import from china to UK whatever he's selling,i find often in italy the same as you do.
Moving forward well yesterday i was scowering ebay and i found what i actually need which is a 12V DC to 220V AC since i will use that for a washing machine motor driving another washing machine motor used as generator,since the amps required would be a bit above mA than the board you posted,it came to my mind that dc to ac inverter would be the best fit for what i need along with AC voltage regulator so i can actually fully test the output from 100V AC up to 220V AC and see what are the outputs of DC generated by the second washing machine motor.
God i love Knowledge i seem never ever to have enough of it.
Thank you for your video and the time you've spent making it.
Yes, the converter would certainly not be able to drive a washing machine motor. It is also DC not AC. It sounds what you probably need is actually a VARIAC. Its a ring transformer with a slider that allows you tap variable AC voltage at any position. Kind of like a giant potentiometer (volume control) but a true transformer, not a resistor. There is a video on my channel building one. ua-cam.com/video/tnatQbWQ_Tw/v-deo.html
@@TheHWcave Hi well what i need i already found it as i said before and tomorrow i will order it,its practically an inverter from DC to AC and it can drive motors up to 500Watt,before that i tested a step up DC to DC from 12 to 80V DC but i pretty soon understood that 80V dc wouldn't have been enough since yes washing machine motor was generatin' between 90 to 95 V DC when i realized that it was without load,when i actually attached the load wouldn't have been enough even the step up 80v DC,also without load the actual amps pulled from the step up was around 3 Ah.
So since i tested the step up and i wasn't satisfied with the results i opted for an AC inverted right after seeing your video.
Anyway i do appreciate the suggestion you gave me,and since i couldn't find on youtube an actual dc step up with extensive specifics for what i needed i went for buying one,which isn't even that expansive 18 buck included the shipping cost within 5 6 days not to bad so i went for it.
I gotta say sooo many people build things and post videos on youtube,but very lil provide extensive " How To " along with all components needed and that is a damn shame.
When i am done with the testing i will make a video with all the parts needed,since i am HELL BENT on finding and sharing a simple way to make your own electricity also easy to assemble that even a 10 yrs/o kid could do it,in a fairly reasonable amount of time for the assembly.
I also can understand why people won't provide the how to,and well china scambegs its the reason.